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WO2025129303A1 - Methods for treating keratin fibers with osmolytes, carboxylic acids and amino acids - Google Patents

Methods for treating keratin fibers with osmolytes, carboxylic acids and amino acids Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2025129303A1
WO2025129303A1 PCT/BR2024/050482 BR2024050482W WO2025129303A1 WO 2025129303 A1 WO2025129303 A1 WO 2025129303A1 BR 2024050482 W BR2024050482 W BR 2024050482W WO 2025129303 A1 WO2025129303 A1 WO 2025129303A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
hair
acid
chosen
minutes
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/BR2024/050482
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French (fr)
Inventor
Pedro Henrique Pereira DE CARVALHO
Manon Chaumontet
Beatriz TAVARES FERREIRA
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LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from PCT/BR2023/050479 external-priority patent/WO2025129290A1/en
Priority claimed from PCT/BR2023/050478 external-priority patent/WO2025129289A1/en
Priority claimed from PCT/BR2023/050480 external-priority patent/WO2025129291A1/en
Priority claimed from PCT/BR2023/050472 external-priority patent/WO2025129283A1/en
Priority claimed from PCT/BR2023/050476 external-priority patent/WO2025129287A1/en
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2025129303A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025129303A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • compositions according to the disclosure exhibits surprisingly reduced signs of damage including greater strength and/or decreased elasticity, in particular hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, straightening, relaxing, etc.
  • the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5.
  • the methods comprise applying a first composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time, and optionally rinsing the hair, followed by at least one subsequent application of a second composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the second composition on the hair leavein period, and optionally rinsing the hair.
  • the first and second compositions may be the same or may be different.
  • the second composition may be a composition for caring, dyeing, shaping and/or lightning process.
  • the subsequent application step may follow the first application step substantially immediately, or may occur after a period of time, for example up to about 2 hours or up to about 1 .5 hours after the first application.
  • the methods and treatment routines according to the disclosure may also include a step of (1 ) applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the treatment composition on the hair for a leave-in period, and optionally rinsing the treatment composition from the hair, before, simultaneously with, and/or after a step of (2) applying a hair care composition such as a shampoo, a rinse-out conditioner, a hair mask, a hair rinse, a treatment oil or serum, etc., to the hair.
  • a hair care composition such as a shampoo, a rinse-out conditioner, a hair mask, a hair rinse, a treatment oil or serum, etc.
  • a pause time between steps (1 ) and (2) may be observed.
  • the methods and routines may, for example, be for reducing or preventing hair damage and/or breakage, protecting hair from damage and/or breakage, restoring hair fiber moisture equilibrium, providing hair fiber strength, improving hair fiber elasticity, and/or maintaining hair fiber moisture equilibrium, strength, and/or elasticity.
  • FIGS. 1A-1 B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S1-S8 after one treatment (1A) and five treatments (1 B).
  • FIGS. 2A-2B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S9-S16 after one treatment (2A) and five treatments (2B).
  • FIG. 3 is a graph showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S17- S21 after five treatments.
  • FIGS. 4A-4B are graphs showing the break stress of hair fibers treated with compositions according to the disclosure and comparative compositions.
  • FIGS. 5A-5B show the structures of certain exemplary osmolytes that can be included in compositions according to the disclosure.
  • FIG. 6 is a graph showing the elasticity of hair fibers treated in accordance with an exemplary method of the disclosure (P1 ) and hair treated with a comparative composition (P2) after multiple treatments.
  • the disclosure relates to methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example methods for repairing damaged keratin fibers, providing strength to keratin fibers, and/or reducing elasticity of keratin fibers, in connection with hair care routines, a process for dyeing, lightening, and/or shaping the keratin fibers.
  • the treatment compositions which can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid or salts thereof, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid or salts thereof, and (d) at least one solvent.
  • the compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components.
  • compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid.
  • compositions according to the disclosure can comprise one, two, or three amino acids.
  • Amino acids that can be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH.
  • compositions comprise at least one basic amino acid.
  • amino acid includes amino carboxylic acids and salts thereof as well as amino sulfonic acids and salts thereof.
  • amino acids are understood to refer to organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group
  • amino acids can be in either the D-, L-, or DL- configuration.
  • it is advantageous to choose amino acids in the L- configuration for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments p is preferably 2.
  • the treatment compositions comprise one or more amino acids chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.
  • the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.
  • the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and/or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and/or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and/or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and/or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and/or salts thereof.
  • the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and/or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and/or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and/or salts thereof. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and/or salts thereof.
  • the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1 % to about 15%, such as about 0.1 % to about 12%, about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 9%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 7%, about 0.1 % to about 6%, about 0.1 % to about 5.5%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4.5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3.5%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2.5%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1.5%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, about 0.5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 12%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 9%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5.5%, about 0.5% to about 5%,
  • the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6.5%, about 3.75% to about 6.25%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4.25% to about 5.75%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1 %, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
  • the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids in any of the foregoing ranges and amounts.
  • the treatment compositions comprise arginine and/or a salt thereof.
  • arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present, for example arginine comprises greater than about 50%, such as greater than about 60%, greater than about 70%, greater than about 80%, greater than about 90%, greater than about 95%, greater than about 98%, or greater than about 99% of all amino acids present in the composition.
  • arginine is the only the basic amino acid in the composition.
  • the amount of serine may range from about 0.01 % to about 2%, such as from about 0.01 % to about 1.5%, about 0.01 % to about 1 %, about 0.01 % to about 0.5%, about 0.01 % to about 0.4%, about 0.01 % to about 0.3%, about 0.01 % to about 0.2%, about 0.01 % to about 0.1 %, about 0.05% to about 2%, about 0.05% to about 1.5%, about 0.05% to about 1 %, about 0.05% to about 0.5%, about 0.05% to about 0.4%, about 0.05% to about 0.3%, about 0.05% to about 0.2%, about 0.05% to about 0.1 %, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1 .5%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, or about 0.1 % to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1 %, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
  • at least one basic amino acid and serine in compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure, and to choose total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6.
  • the composition may have a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11 .
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12.
  • the composition comprises serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11 , or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
  • the treatment compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11 , or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
  • Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example in response to environmental stressors.
  • Organic osmolytes include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof, carbohydrates such sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g. dimethylsulfonopropionate), and urea.
  • “osmolytes” includes derivatives of amino carboxylic acids, derivatives of amino sulfonic acids, and salts of the derivatives (referred to herein collectively as “amino acid derivatives”), but does not include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or salts thereof which are described above, and does not include polyols.
  • the treatment compositions comprise more than one osmolyte.
  • useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:
  • R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups, preferably C1 -C2 alkyl groups, more preferably methyl;
  • A is N or S; m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;
  • the solvent includes water.
  • the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% of water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% water by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, about 55% to about 90%, about 60% to about 90%, or about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solvent includes at least one nonaqueous solvent.
  • nonaqueous solvents that can be used include, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or combinations thereof.
  • one or more polyols can be chosen from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3- Cs diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 triols, any of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
  • polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen.
  • the polyols are chosen from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3- hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethy 1-1 ,3- propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2,2-
  • the total amount of the non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 1 % to about 20%, from about 1 .5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably chosen from polyols.
  • the composition comprises water and at least one nonaqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, more preferably from about 1 .5% to about 12%, more preferably still from about 2% to about 11 %, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more thereof, preferably chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more thereof.
  • the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanedio
  • compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one surfactant.
  • the compositions may comprise one or more cationic surfactants and/or amphoteric surfactants, and in some embodiments the compositions may comprise mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.
  • compositions may optionally include one or more anionic surfactants and/or nonionic surfactants
  • the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic surfactants and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1 .75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01 %, or less than about 0.001 % of anionic surfactants and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant.
  • cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition(s) according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.
  • Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl
  • compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant chosen from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
  • the total amount of cationic surfactants may range up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1 %, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of cationic surfactants may range from about 0.001 % to about 10%, from about 0.01 % to about 8%, from about 0.1 % to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1 % to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • useful amphoteric surfactants include derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines where the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate.
  • amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocam inopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocam inopropionate, ammonium cocam inodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium cornam
  • Betaine surfactants may also be used.
  • coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2- hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, or cocam idopropyl betaine may be chosen.
  • the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1 %, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range from about 0.001 % to about 6%, from about 0.01 % to about 4%, from about 0.1 % to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.
  • the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride.
  • the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound.
  • the at least one fatty compound may be chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of any two or more thereof.
  • the total amount of auxiliary components typically ranges from about 0.01 % to about 10% based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the individual amounts of each component or the total amount of components may range from about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3%, or about 1 % to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure typically have a pH of less than or equal to 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4.
  • the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4.
  • the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all ranges and subranges thereof.
  • persulfate compounds that may be present in a bleaching base composition include potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate, or mixtures thereof.
  • Persulfate compounds are typically present in an amount of at least about 10%, such as at least about 20%, at least about 30%, at least about 40%, or at least about 50%, for example from about 20% to about 70%, about 30% to about 65%, about 45% to about 65%, about 40% to about 60%, about 50% to about 60%, or about 50% to about 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
  • Silicates that may be present in the bleaching base compositions include lithium, sodium, and potassium silicates, metasilicates, and/or disilicates, such as aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, aluminum magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, strontium silicate, potassium silicate, potassium metasilicate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, or any mixture thereof.
  • the total amount of silicates will range from about 1 % to about 40%, such as from about 1 % to about 35%, about 1 % to about 30%, about 1 % to about 25%, about 1 % to about 20%, about 5% to about 40%, about 5% to about 35%, about 5% to about 30%, about 5% to about 25%, about 5% to about 20%, about 10% to about 40%, about 10% to about 35%, about 10% to about 30%, about 10% to about 25%, about 10% to about 20%, about 15% to about 40%, about 15% to about 35%, about 15% to about 30%, about 15% to about 25%, or about 15% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
  • bleaching base compositions optionally include one or more oxidizing agents in addition to persulfate compounds.
  • the one or more additional oxidizing agents may be chosen from perborates, percarbonates, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.
  • the bleaching base compositions include one or more of alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, redox enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases, or 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricase.
  • the total amount of additional oxidizing agents typically ranges from about 5% to about 45%, such as from about 5% to about 40%, from about 5% to about 35%, from about 5% to about 30%, from about 5% to about 25%, from about 5% to about 20%, from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
  • additional alkaline agents may include inorganic alkaline agents such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, ammonium carbonate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, or magnesium carbonate.
  • inorganic alkaline agents such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, ammonium carbonate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, or magnesium carbonate.
  • the total amount of additional alkaline agents typically ranges from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 0.1 % to about 15%, about 0.1 % to about 13%, about 0.1 % to about 11 %, about 1 % to about 15%, about 1 % to about 13%, about 1 % to about 11 %, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 13%, about 3% to about 11 %, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 13%, or about 5% to about 11 % by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
  • bleaching base compositions may include one or more thickening agents, such as, for example, carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers, hydrophobically-modified cross-linked copolymers of carboxylic acid and alkyl carboxylate vinyl polymers, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxylpropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, nitro cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xanthan gum, arabic gum, tragacanth gum, carob gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, starch, algae colloids, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, alginic acid-based polymers, propylene glycol esters, polyethylene
  • the total amount of thickening agents may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10%, such as from about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 6%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 12%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 6%, about 1 % to about 4%, or about 1 % to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
  • bleaching base compositions include one or more oils.
  • the oils may be oils of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons, optionally branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids, optionally branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols, mono- and/or polyesters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, perfluorinated and/or organofluorinated oils, volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, fluorosilicone oils, or combinations of two or more thereof.
  • liquid paraffins and their derivatives petrolatum, mineral oils, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, may be used.
  • the total amount of oils is typically less than about 5%, such as from about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, or about 0.1 % to about 1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
  • bleaching base compositions comprise one or more auxiliary components such as, for example, preservatives, cationic conditioning compounds including cationic conditioning polymers, rheology-modifying agents, chelating agents, fatty substances, fragrances, colorants, fillers, amino acids, surfactants (cationic, anionic, nonionic, and/or amphoteric), dessicants, de-dusting agents, ceramides, pH adjusting agents, etc.
  • auxiliary components such as, for example, preservatives, cationic conditioning compounds including cationic conditioning polymers, rheology-modifying agents, chelating agents, fatty substances, fragrances, colorants, fillers, amino acids, surfactants (cationic, anionic, nonionic, and/or amphoteric), dessicants, de-dusting agents, ceramides, pH adjusting agents, etc.
  • oxidizing compositions Prior to applying the bleaching base composition to the hair, it is generally mixed with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example water.
  • oxidizing compositions can comprise additional components, such as, for example, rheology-modifying agents, chelants, fatty substances, ceramides, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc.
  • the oxidizing agent can be, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, alkali metal ferricyanides, or persalts, such as perborates or persulphates.
  • the total amount of oxidizing agent and carrier can vary depending on the desired strength of the oxidizing composition.
  • Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N- dihydro-pyrazolopyrazolones, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3- isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-
  • the total amount of oxidizing agent may be from about 1 % to about 40%, such as from about 1 % to about 30%, about 1 % to about 20%, about 1 % to about 15%, about 1 % to about 12%, about 3% to about 20%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 12%, about 7% to about 20%, about 7% to about 15%, about 7% to about 12%, about 9% to about 20%, about 9% to about 15%, or about 9% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the mixture is generally alkaline, having a pH of greater than about 7, such as greater than about 8, greater than about 9, or greater than about 10, for example ranging from about 7 to about 10.5, or from about 7.5 to about 10.
  • the hair is rinsed.
  • Another exemplary routine may comprise applying a treatment composition to hair that is wet, damp, or dry; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; optionally rinsing the hair; applying a hair mask or hair treatment oil to the hair; optionally heating the hair; and optionally rinsing the hair after an optional leave-in period of the hair mask or oil, for example about 8 hours.
  • This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition.
  • the treatment composition and bleaching, dye and/or hair shaping composition may optionally be layered on top of one another on the hair (no rinsing) or may optionally be applied to the hair in alternating layers (rinsing) during the hair bleaching, dyeing and/or shaping process.
  • a treatment composition according to the disclosure may be added to or mixed with a composition for lightening, dyeing and/or shaping the hair, e.g.
  • a treatment composition as described herein may be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair, left to process for a leave-in time as described herein, for example ranging from about one minute to about two hours such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heating.
  • the hair may then be rinsed, followed by application of a hair bleaching, dyeing and/or shaping composition according to conventional hair bleaching, dyeing, and/or shaping routines.
  • a treatment composition as described herein may be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair, left to process for a leave-in time as described herein, for example ranging from about one minute to about two hours such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heating.
  • a hair bleaching, dyeing and/or shaping composition may be applied to the hair, and the hair bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping process followed according to conventional hair bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping routines.
  • a bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or hair shaping composition may be applied to the hair.
  • the hair may then be rinsed, followed by application of a treatment composition as described herein to wet, damp, or dry hair, which may be left to process for a leavein time as described herein, for example ranging from about one minute to about two hours such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heating.
  • the hair may then be subsequently rinsed.
  • a hair bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping composition may be applied to the hair according to conventional hair bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping routines, and without rinsing the bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping composition from the hair, a treatment composition as described herein may be applied, left to process for a leave-in time as described herein, for example ranging from about one minute to about two hours such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heating. The hair may then be subsequently rinsed.
  • Yet another exemplary method may include applying a bleaching composition to the hair, rinsing the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e.
  • a still further exemplary method may include applying a bleaching composition to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within the same hair lightening process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair, where the bleaching composition comprises one or more direct dyes.
  • hair that has been treated with treatment compositions and methods according to the disclosure before, during, and/or after the hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing processes has less damage than hair subjected to such hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing processes but not treated with treatment compositions and methods according to the disclosure before, during, and/or after the processes.
  • the hair may have lower elasticity and/or greater tensile strength than hair similarly permanently reshaped, lightened, dyed, cared for, and/or relaxed but not treated according to the disclosure.
  • additional methods according to the disclosure include methods for reducing or minimizing hair damage in a process for hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing, methods for preventing hair damage from a process for hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing, and methods for improving elasticity and/or tensile strength of hair in a process for hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing.
  • bleaching hair and “lightening” hair are used interchangeably to refer to compositions and processes for lightening the color of the hair with typical hair bleaching compositions comprising oxidizing and/or alkalizing compounds.
  • treating hair with a treatment composition or applying a treatment composition to hair that is “in connection with a process for lightening/dyeing/shaping hair,” “within the same hair lightening/dyeing/shaping process,” and variations thereof, are intended to convey that the treatment composition is applied to the hair within close proximity of time as the hair is subjected to a process for lightening/dyeing/shaping the hair, such that a person of skill in the art would consider the processes of treating hair with a treatment composition as described herein and lightening/dyeing/shaping the hair to be a single process.
  • the treatment composition may be applied to the hair less than 24 hours, such as less than 12 hours, less than 6 hours, less than 4 hours, less than 3 hours, less than 2 hours, less than 1 hour, less than 45 minutes, less than 30 minutes, or less than 15 minutes before and/or after a hair lightening/dye/shaping composition is applied to the hair.
  • a salt thereof also relates to “salts thereof.”
  • the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, or a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
  • amino acids and/or salts thereof means “amino acids and salts thereof” as well as “amino acids or salts thereof,” and expressly covers instances of either.
  • salts may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is non-limiting. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, e.g. in an aqueous solution.
  • the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and mixtures of two or more thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” and combinations of two or more thereof,” “and a combination of two or more thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” “or combinations of two or more thereof,” “or a combination thereof,” and the like are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.
  • a component is described as being present “in an amount up to” a certain amount, it is intended that such component is, in fact, present in the composition, i.e. is present in an amount greater than 0%.
  • applying a composition onto hair and variations thereof are intended to mean contacting the hair with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner. It may also mean contacting the hair in an effective amount.
  • hair care or “caring” for hair as used herein refers to compositions and methods of caring for the overall hygiene and health of the hair, such as shampooing and/or conditioning the hair.
  • Consditioning refers to compositions and methods that improve the feel, smoothness, ease of detangling, etc. of hair, typically by coating the hair with conditioning agents. Hair care is not intended to include styling the hair or chemically treating the hair such as with a hair dye composition, permanent waving composition, straightening composition, etc.
  • shaping hair refers to processes that involve chemical reshaping of hair that is considered by those skilled in the art to be permanent.
  • Perfect” hair shaping means that the shape of the hair fiber achieved by the process lasts through multiple styling and washing routines, for example at least 2, at least 5, or at least 10 washing routines.
  • shapeing hair and reshaping hair are not intended to refer to processes that those skilled in the art consider temporary, such as straightening the hair with a straightening iron in the absence of reducing or alkaline agents, curling the hair with a curling iron in the absence of reducing alkaline agents, or the like.
  • hair shaping composition refers to a composition comprising a chemical agent that, when used in a process for shaping hair, provides a shape to the hair that lasts through at least 2 washing routines.
  • the term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1 .5%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.01 %, less than about 0.001 %, or less than about 0.0001 % of the specified material.
  • a composition that is “free” of waxes may not have wax included as an intended component but may nevertheless contain a pigment that is coated with a wax, as such wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and would not be expected to provide benefits to the composition that would be expected by including a wax per se as an intended component.
  • the phrase “wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently” or the like means that the component or parameter that follows is satisfied by either or both of the first and second compositions, but that the component or parameter is not necessarily the same.
  • “wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise a surfactant” should be understood to indicate that either the first composition or the second composition has a surfactant, or both the first and second compositions have a surfactant but in that case the surfactant in the first composition may be the same or different than the surfactant in the second composition.
  • compositions 1A-1 G which can be used in methods according to the disclosure, were prepared as shown in Table 1.
  • the pH of each of compositions 1A- 1 G was about 3.5.
  • compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric and/or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine and/or serine).
  • compositions 1A to 1 G can be used in methods according to the disclosure, for example can be applied to hair before and/or after a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition is applied to the hair, can be mixed with a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, or can be applied to the hair simultaneously with a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, and are expected to minimize, prevent, and/or repair damage to hair that would otherwise be expected from a hair dyeing and/or shaping process.
  • the compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers when used in methods according to the disclosure.
  • compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair were conducted.
  • Swatches S2-S7 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • one of compositions 1 A-1 F (Table 2) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.
  • the integrity of the hair fibers of each of swatches S1 -S8 was studied after the first and fifth days. Elasticity was evaluated to determine whether the hair fibers stretched, and if so, whether they returned to their original state (lower elasticity, i.e. healthy), whether the fibers stretched easily and remained stretched (higher elasticity, i.e. damaged), or whether the hair fibers broke upon testing.
  • the evaluation was performed by stretching a standardized amount of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each swatch.
  • the experts were trained to stretch the area of the swatch being evaluated by uniformly applying manual pulling force using the hands/fingers.
  • the behaviour of the swatch was classified by each expert according to a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each swatch as the average of the two:
  • Swatch S9 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair. The treatment was repeated a second time. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.
  • Swatches S10-S15 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • one of compositions 1A-1 F (Table 3) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.
  • Examples 2.1 to 2.2 therefore demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical processes, for example a bleaching process, with a composition according to the disclosure surprisingly repairs the damage, leaving hair less elastic and healthier than without treatment. It is expected that the methods and routines described herein, i.e. comprising at least one subsequent application of a composition according to the disclosure within about 12 hours or less, preferably within about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, will repair damaged hair and improve elasticity to an even greater extent than seen in Examples 2.1 to 2.2.
  • compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine).
  • compositions 2A-2E can be used in methods according to the disclosure, for example can be applied to hair before and/or after a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition is applied to the hair, can be mixed with a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, or can be applied to the hair simultaneously with a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, and are expected to minimize, prevent, and/or repair damage to hair that would otherwise be expected from a hair dyeing and/or shaping process.
  • the compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers when used in methods according to the disclosure.
  • compositions according to the disclosure In order to evaluate the ability of compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair in connection with bleaching processes, for examples, the following studies were conducted.
  • a comparative product, C1 had the following listing of ingredients on the package: Water (Aqua/Eau), Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium- 91 , Sodium Benzoate, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Fragrance (Parfum), Tetrasodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-37, Benzyl Benzoate, Etidronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Phytantriol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate.
  • composition C1 which is described as a “pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends for visibly healthier hair,” is advertised as part of a system that asserts it can “relink broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical services, heat, and styling.”
  • the instructions for composition C1 are to use the product prior to using the shampoo (“C1-S”) and conditioner (“C1 -C”) that form part of this system, both of which include bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate as the stated active agent.
  • swatches (S17-S21 ) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes.
  • the swatches were rinsed and then four of the swatches (S17-S20) were subjected to the following treatment routines (swatch S21 did not have any treatment after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).
  • Swatch S17 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
  • Swatches S18 and S19 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • one of compositions 2D (S18) or 2B (S19) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
  • the swatches were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
  • Swatch S22 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • a mask composition was applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
  • Swatch S23 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • composition 2C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
  • composition C1 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the swatch and distributing it to ensure the hair was fully coated.
  • Composition C1 was allowed to remain on the hair for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • the swatch was cleansed with shampoo C1 -S by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • conditioner C1 -C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
  • the swatches were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
  • Swatches S27 and S28 were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • One of either composition 2B (S28) or 2D (S27) was applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed.
  • a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
  • composition C1 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the swatch and distributing it to ensure the hair was fully coated.
  • Composition C1 was allowed to remain on the hair for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • the swatch was cleansed with shampoo C1 -S by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed.
  • conditioner C1 -C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed.
  • a leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
  • FIG. 4B shows the break stress (MPa) for a control swatch (CTL), which was the same hair but unbleached, swatch S26, which was bleached but without subsequent treatment, swatches S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and S29, treated with the comparative compositions.
  • CTL control swatch
  • compositions 3A-3F which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine)), can be used in methods according to the disclosure, for example can be applied to hair before and/or after a bleaching, dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition is applied to the hair, can be mixed with a bleaching, dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, or can be applied to the hair simultaneously with a bleaching, dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, and are expected to minimize, prevent, and/or repair damage to hair that would otherwise be expected from a hair bleaching, dyeing and/or shaping process.
  • the compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers when used according to the methods described herein.
  • the hair of forty-two (42) volunteers (integrity rated 0-3 when evaluated in the manner described in Example 2.1 ) was bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at room temperature for about 45 minutes.
  • the hair was rinsed and immediately subjected to one of the two following treatment protocols.
  • FIG. 6 shows the averaged results for P1 and P2 at each of T0-T5.
  • T1 the hair treated according to both protocols show decreased elasticity as soon as the first treatment (T1 )
  • P1 showed even greater improvement after each treatment than the hair treated according to P2, which difference was considered to be statistically significant.
  • compositions which can be used in methods and routines according to the disclosure can be prepared, and are expected to similarly minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair when used as described herein.
  • the compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers.

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Abstract

The disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair. The treatment compositions comprise (a) at least one amino acid and salts thereof, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and salts thereof, and (d) at least one solvent. The methods comprise multiple applications of treatment compositions to the keratin fibers. The methods also comprise applying a treatment composition to the hair before, simultaneously with, and/or after applying dye, bleaching or lightening, hair caring, and/or permanent hair shaping compositions to the hair.

Description

METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH OSMOLYTES, CARBOXYLIC ACIDS AND AMINO ACIDS
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
The present application is a continuation-in-part of International Applications Nos. PCT/BR2023/050472, filed on December 20, 2023, PCT/BR2023/050476, filed on December 20, 2023, PCT/BR2023/050478, filed on December 20, 2023, PCT/BR2023/050479, filed on December 20, 2023, and PCT/BR2023/050480, filed on December 20, 2023, from which all priority is claimed and the entire contents of each of which are incorporated herein by reference.
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present disclosure relates to methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example to repair damaged keratin fibers, provide strength to keratin fibers, and/or reduce elasticity of keratin fibers, in, for example, connection with a process for shaping, dyeing, and/or lightening the keratin fibers.
BACKGROUND
Consumers use cosmetic compositions and processes to change or enhance the appearance of their hair, e.g., by changing the color, style, and/or shape of the hair, and/or by imparting various properties to hair, such as shine and conditioning. However, many compositions and processes for changing the appearance of the hair, such as compositions and processes for permanently altering the color or shape of the hair, involve harsh chemical treatments. Additionally, repeated styling can lead to damaged hair, for example due to repeated use of heat and styling tools. All of these processes can break bonds within the hair fibers, which if not reformed results in damaged hair.
For example, hair lightening (bleaching) and dyeing compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds such as oxidizing agents. In order to alter the color of the hair, these components must first break down the natural components in the hair fibers. Similarly, hair straightening, relaxing, and permanent waving compositions also involve harsh chemicals to change the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.
It is known that, while such processes effectively alter the color and shape of the hair, the chemical agents used inherently result in damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, relaxed, straightened, waved, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally unhealthy in feel and appearance. Additionally, the damaged hair is brittle and/or has increased elasticity, which result in greater incidence of hair breakage.
Although consumers regularly care for their hair in the course of ordinary hygiene routines, e.g., washing and conditioning their hair, when hair is damaged it is more prone to breakage during these processes. As such, consumers seek compositions and processes for preventing or minimizing such damage and/or for repairing hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes. In particular, consumers desire hair that is strong, does not break easily, is able to be stretched or manipulated while retaining the ability to return to its original state without breakage (i.e. has decreased elasticity), and that feels soft and healthy to the touch and also appears shiny and healthy.
However, formulating compositions that satisfactorily address these issues has proven to be challenging. For example, some compositions that attempt to address the problem simply coat the hair with compounds that can improve the feel and appearance of the hair; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Instead of preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach simply masks the damage until the hair is next rinsed or washed. Other compositions attempt to address the damage within the hair fiber, but to date have not been satisfactory.
The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is surprisingly effective for preventing or minimizing hair damage and treating damaged hair. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure exhibits surprisingly reduced signs of damage including greater strength and/or decreased elasticity, in particular hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, straightening, relaxing, etc.
SUMMARY
The present disclosure relates to methods for treating keratin fibers, e.g. human hair, for example to prevent, minimize, or repair hair damage such as damage caused by harsh chemical compositions and processes, such as compositions and processes for altering the shape of hair, and lightening (bleaching) the hair. The compositions that can be used in the methods (also referred to as “treatment composition”) comprise a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, one or more osmolytes, and one or more carboxylic acids, and the methods comprise applying treatment compositions according to the disclosure to the keratin fibers, such as in connection with a hair dyeing process, a hair lightening process, a hair shaping process, and/or hair care routines, for example before and/or after washing and/or conditioning the hair.
In various embodiments, the treatment compositions that can be used in the methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, comprise (a) at least one amino acid or salts thereof, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid or salts thereof, and (d) at least one solvent. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.
In some embodiments, treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid chosen from basic amino acids, for example arginine, histidine, lysine, salts thereof, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and salts thereof ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15%, preferably from about 1 % to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments the compositions comprise at least one amino acid chosen from acidic or neutral amino acids and salts thereof, for example serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and/or neutral amino acids and salts thereof ranges from about 0.01 % to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In still further embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic, and/or neutral amino acids, for example the compositions may comprise arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof present in the composition ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15%, preferably from about 1 % to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In some preferred embodiments, treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more thereof. In various embodiments, treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines, and/or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably chosen from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 % to about 10%, preferably from about 1 % to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably still from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of osmolytes that is equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably ranging from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1 .5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.
In various embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one carboxylic acid chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof may range from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5.
The solvent may comprise water and/or at least one non-aqueous solvent, and in some embodiments comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the treatment compositions comprise water and at least one nonaqueous solvent, preferably chosen from polyols, and have a total amount of nonaqueous solvents ranging from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The treatment compositions that can be used in the methods according to the disclosure may optionally also include at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations or two or more thereof.
In certain embodiments, treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid and/or a salt thereof, preferably at least one basic amino acid and/or a salt thereof, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof, (d) at least one solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (e) optionally at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. For example, in at least some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1 % to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, more preferably from about 4% to about 12%, and preferably from about 4% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof, for example arginine, serine, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, to the total amount of betaines, preferably chosen from compounds of formula (II) and salts thereof, for example glycine betaine, that is equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1 .5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof that is greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5.
In preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, preferably chosen from arginine and/or a salt thereof, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably chosen from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, and/or salts thereof, and (d) water. For example, the composition may comprise (a) from about 2% to about 6% of arginine and/or a salt thereof, (b) from about 0.5% to about 3.5% of glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, and/or salts thereof, (d) water and optionally at least one nonaqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (e) optionally serine, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranges from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to glycine betaine of equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.01 % to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1 %, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to serine of greater than about 2, preferably ranging from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably still from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12. When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine of greater than about 2, preferably ranging from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably still from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.
In a preferred embodiment, the methods comprise applying a first composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time, and optionally rinsing the hair, followed by at least one subsequent application of a second composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the second composition on the hair leavein period, and optionally rinsing the hair. The first and second compositions may be the same or may be different. When the second composition is different from the first composition, it may be a composition for caring, dyeing, shaping and/or lightning process. The subsequent application step may follow the first application step substantially immediately, or may occur after a period of time, for example up to about 2 hours or up to about 1 .5 hours after the first application.
In another preferred embodiment, the methods comprise applying a treatment composition to hair before and/or after the hair is treated with a composition for chemically straightening or relaxing the hair or for permanent waving the hair, and/or a dyeing and/or bleaching composition is applied to the hair, with or without rinsing between application of the treatment composition and dyeing and/or bleaching composition. The treatment composition may also be applied to hair simultaneously with a dyeing, bleaching, and/or hair shaping composition, for example by mixing the treatment composition and dyeing, bleaching, and/or hair shaping composition before the mixture is applied to the hair, or by applying the treatment composition and dyeing, bleaching, and/or hair shaping composition separately to the hair at the same time. The dyeing, bleaching, and/or hair shaping compositions that are used according to the disclosure are not limited, and can be those that are typically used to dye, lighten the hair, and/or in processes for altering the shape of hair, for example oxidative dye compositions comprising oxidizing agents and oxidative dye compounds, bleaching compositions comprising oxidizing and/or alkalizing agents, and compositions for permanent waving, straightening, or relaxing the hair, which may include at least one reducing agent and/or at least one alkaline agent.
The methods and treatment routines according to the disclosure may also include a step of (1 ) applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the treatment composition on the hair for a leave-in period, and optionally rinsing the treatment composition from the hair, before, simultaneously with, and/or after a step of (2) applying a hair care composition such as a shampoo, a rinse-out conditioner, a hair mask, a hair rinse, a treatment oil or serum, etc., to the hair. Optionally, a pause time between steps (1 ) and (2) may be observed. The methods and routines may, for example, be for reducing or preventing hair damage and/or breakage, protecting hair from damage and/or breakage, restoring hair fiber moisture equilibrium, providing hair fiber strength, improving hair fiber elasticity, and/or maintaining hair fiber moisture equilibrium, strength, and/or elasticity.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
FIGS. 1A-1 B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S1-S8 after one treatment (1A) and five treatments (1 B).
FIGS. 2A-2B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S9-S16 after one treatment (2A) and five treatments (2B).
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S17- S21 after five treatments.
FIGS. 4A-4B are graphs showing the break stress of hair fibers treated with compositions according to the disclosure and comparative compositions.
FIGS. 5A-5B show the structures of certain exemplary osmolytes that can be included in compositions according to the disclosure.
FIG. 6 is a graph showing the elasticity of hair fibers treated in accordance with an exemplary method of the disclosure (P1 ) and hair treated with a comparative composition (P2) after multiple treatments.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The disclosure relates to methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example methods for repairing damaged keratin fibers, providing strength to keratin fibers, and/or reducing elasticity of keratin fibers, in connection with hair care routines, a process for dyeing, lightening, and/or shaping the keratin fibers.
I. COMPOSITIONS
The treatment compositions which can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid or salts thereof, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid or salts thereof, and (d) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components.
Amino Acids
Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure can comprise one, two, or three amino acids. Amino acids that can be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, compositions comprise at least one basic amino acid.
As used herein, the term “amino acid” includes amino carboxylic acids and salts thereof as well as amino sulfonic acids and salts thereof. As used herein, amino acids are understood to refer to organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group
( — COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and/or sulfonic acid group ( — S(=O)2-OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group ( — NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intra-cyclic, along with a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.
Amino carboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more thereof. Exemplary amino sulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoluene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more thereof.
Salts of amino acids are also included in the term “amino acid”, whether or not so stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.
Furthermore, amino acids can be in either the D-, L-, or DL- configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids in the L- configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
In some embodiments it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more amino carboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I):
Figure imgf000011_0001
wherein: p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl; or when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C12)alkyl group, preferably a (C1 -C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH,
-CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
In some embodiments when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.
In some embodiments when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments p is preferably 2.
In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise one or more amino acids chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least certain embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.
In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and/or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and/or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and/or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and/or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and/or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and/or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and/or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and/or salts thereof. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and/or salts thereof.
In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1 % to about 15%, such as about 0.1 % to about 12%, about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 9%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 7%, about 0.1 % to about 6%, about 0.1 % to about 5.5%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4.5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3.5%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2.5%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1.5%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, about 0.5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 12%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 9%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5.5%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4.5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3.5%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2.5%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1.5%, about 0.5% to about 1 %, about 1 % to about 15%, about 1 % to about 12%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 9%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 7%, about 1 % to about 6%, about 1 % to about 5.5%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4.5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3.5%, about 1 % to about 3%, about 1 % to about 2.5%, about 1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 1 .5%, about 1 .5% to about 15%, about 1 .5% to about 12%, about 1 .5% to about 10%, about 1 .5% to about 9%, about 1 .5% to about 8%, about 1 .5% to about 7%, about 1 .5% to about 6%, about 1 .5% to about 5.5%, about 1 .5% to about 5%, about 1 .5% to about 4.5%, about 1 .5% to about 4%, about 1 .5% to about 3.5%, about 1 .5% to about 3%, about 1 .5% to about 2.5%, about 1 .5% to about 2%, about 2% to about 15%, about 2% to about 12%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 9%, about 2% to about 8%, about 2% to about 7%, about 2% to about 6%, about 2% to about 5.5%, about 2% to about 5%, about 2% to about 4.5%, about 2% to about 4%, about 2% to about 3.5%, about 2% to about 3%, about 2% to about 2.5%, about 2.5% to about 15%, about 2.5% to about 12%, about 2.5% to about 10%, about 2.5% to about 9%, about 2.5% to about 8%, about 2.5% to about 7%, about 2.5% to about 6%, about 2.5% to about 5.5%, about 2.5% to about 5%, about 2.5% to about 4.5%, about 2.5% to about 4%, about 2.5% to about 3.5%, about 2.5% to about 3%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 3% to about 10%, about 3% to about 9%, about 3% to about 8%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3% to about 6%, about 3% to about 5.5%, about 3% to about 5%, about 3% to about 4.5%, about 3% to about 4%, about 3% to about 3.5%, about 3.5% to about 15%, about 3.5% to about 12%, about 3.5% to about 10%, about 3.5% to about 9%, about 3.5% to about 8%, about 3.5% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6%, about 3.5% to about 5.5%, about 3.5% to about 5%, about 3.5% to about 4.5%, about 3.5% to about 4%, about 4% to about 15%, about 4% to about 12%, about 4% to about 10%, about 4% to about 9%, about 4% to about 8%, about 4% to about 7%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4% to about 5.5%, about 4% to about 5%, about 4% to about 4.5%, about 4.5% to about 15%, about 4.5% to about 12%, about 4.5% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 9%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 4.5% to about 7%, about 4.5% to about 6%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6.5%, about 3.75% to about 6.25%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4.25% to about 5.75%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1 %, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids in any of the foregoing ranges and amounts.
In one preferred embodiment, the treatment compositions comprise arginine and/or a salt thereof. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present, for example arginine comprises greater than about 50%, such as greater than about 60%, greater than about 70%, greater than about 80%, greater than about 90%, greater than about 95%, greater than about 98%, or greater than about 99% of all amino acids present in the composition. In a further preferred embodiment, arginine is the only the basic amino acid in the composition.
In various preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1 % to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, yet more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1 %, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
In another preferred embodiment, treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise serine and/or a salt thereof. If present, the amount of serine may range from about 0.01 % to about 2%, such as from about 0.01 % to about 1.5%, about 0.01 % to about 1 %, about 0.01 % to about 0.5%, about 0.01 % to about 0.4%, about 0.01 % to about 0.3%, about 0.01 % to about 0.2%, about 0.01 % to about 0.1 %, about 0.05% to about 2%, about 0.05% to about 1.5%, about 0.05% to about 1 %, about 0.05% to about 0.5%, about 0.05% to about 0.4%, about 0.05% to about 0.3%, about 0.05% to about 0.2%, about 0.05% to about 0.1 %, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1 .5%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, or about 0.1 % to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1 %, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid chosen from acidic and/or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure, and to choose total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6. For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11 . In further examples, the weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11 , or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
In still further preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11 , or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
Osmolytes
Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof, carbohydrates such sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g. dimethylsulfonopropionate), and urea. For purposes of this disclosure, “osmolytes” includes derivatives of amino carboxylic acids, derivatives of amino sulfonic acids, and salts of the derivatives (referred to herein collectively as “amino acid derivatives”), but does not include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or salts thereof which are described above, and does not include polyols.
Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. Without intending to be bound by theory, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure permits treated hair to maintain moisture equilibrium, thus reducing potential damage to the hair, or restores moisture equilibrium to already-damaged hair, thereby allowing the treated hair to recover strength and/or reduced elasticity associated with healthy hair.
In preferred embodiments, useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:
(R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-
(H) wherein:
R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups, preferably C1 -C2 alkyl groups, more preferably methyl;
A is N or S; m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;
X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH) or amino (-NH2); and
Y’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: o when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched, and/or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, preferably (C1- Ce), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; o when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-Cs)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, group; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; and o when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, preferably (C1- Ce), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
Useful and non-limiting polyamine compounds may comprise primary and/or secondary and/or tertiary and/or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that can be chosen include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyimines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinyl amine, polyether amine, polylysine, ethylene diamine, 1 ,3- diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, useful polyamines are chosen from putrescine, spermidine, and/or spermine.
Useful and nonlimiting examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaines can also be used and are expressly included in the term “betaine” unless expressly stated otherwise. In particularly preferred embodiments, betaines are chosen from those corresponding to formula (II). Exemplary useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in FIGS. 5A-5B. As shown in FIG. 5A, in some embodiments the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in FIG. 5B, in some embodiments the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X’. The counterion is not limited, and can be any suitable counterion, for example a chloride ion, bromide ion, iodide ion, sulfate anion, sulfonate anion, methyl sulfate anion, phosphate anion, nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used herein a “compound of formula (II)” expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound as well as salt forms, whether or not so stated. As shown in FIGS. 5A-5B, exemplary useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as “betaines”), for example valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxy pro line betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and/or dimethylsulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).
In some preferred embodiments, treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II) that is a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
In some preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = methyl; A is N; and/or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (not substituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R4 and R5, which may be the same or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C10) alkyl group, preferably (Ci-Ce)alkyl, more preferably (C1-C4) alkyl; a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or not, mono or bi-cyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or not, mono or bi-cyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and/or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkyl, more preferably (C1-C4) alkyl; optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH, or -CONH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by one hydroxy group. In further preferred embodiments, R1 = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if present) is a divalent alkyl group that may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
In one preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO- ; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (not substituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by one hydroxy group.
In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in FIGS. 5A- 5B. In more preferred embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethyl glycine (referred to interchangeably as glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).
Useful and non-limiting examples of carbohydrate sugars that can be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and/or derivatives thereof, or hexoses and/or derivatives thereof. For example, the sugars may optionally be chosen from chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxy-ribose, ribulose, deoxy-ribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are chosen from disaccharides, for example sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably chosen from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more thereof.
In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may range from about 0.01 % to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1 % to about 10%, from about 0.1 % to about 9%, from about 0.1 % to about 8%, from about 0.1 % to about 7%, from about 0.1 % to about 6%, from about 0.1 % to about 5%, from about 0.1 % to about 4%, from about 0.1 % to about 3%, from about 0.1 % to about 2%, from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1 %, from about 1 % to about 10%, from about 1 % to about 9%, from about 1 % to about 8%, from about 1 % to about 7%, from about 1 % to about 6%, from about 1 % to about 5%, from about 1 % to about 4%, from about 1 % to about 3%, from about 1 % to about 2%, from about 1 .5% to about 10%, from about 1 .5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1 .5% to about 5%, from about 1 .5% to about 4%, from about 1 .5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10%, from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
In preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1 % to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example about 1 % to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or the glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
It may be advantageous, in some embodiments, to choose amounts of amino acids and osmolytes to provide a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition that is greater than about 0.1 , for example greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1 , greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof to the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1 .2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5. In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof to the total amount of osmolytes may range from greater than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, from about 1 .5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1 , about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1 , about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids chosen from compounds of formula (I), and a total amount of osmolytes chosen from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (l):compounds of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1 , for example greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (l):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example from about 1 to about 4, from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, from about 1 .5 to about 3, from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, from about 1 .75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (l):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1 , about 1.1 , about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1 , about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine of greater than 1 , for example greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1 .75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1 .5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine, and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine of greater than 1 , for example greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1 .75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1 .5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25.
Carboxylic Acids
Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may comprise at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-), or more acid functional groups and at least one carbon atom.
Carboxylic acids that can be used may optionally have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g/mol, less than about 400 g/mol, less than about 300 g/mol, or less than about 200 g/mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight of less than about 300 g/mol, or less than about 200 g/mol.
Salts of carboxylic acids can also be used and are expressly included in the term “carboxylic acid” unless expressly stated otherwise. The salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular the sodium salts.
In preferred embodiments, carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and/or a salt thereof. These (poly)acids are different from the compounds of amino acids type described above. Useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acid or salified form); they can thus comprise a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can comprise more than one, for example two - COOH groups (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids). Useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as from one to three or from two to three -OH groups, for example one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise in total from 2 to 8 or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and from two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and/or their salts comprise in total from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, from one to three -OH groups, and from two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form). Unless stated otherwise, as used herein the term “(poly)acid” includes both monoacids and polyacids. Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that can be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and/or a salt thereof.
Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that can be chosen include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and/or a salt thereof.
In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are chosen from a-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts. It may in some embodiments be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid, and/or tartaric acid and/or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and/or sodium tartrate; preferably citric acid and/or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) may range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1 % to about 15%, such as about about 1 % to about 12%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 9%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 7%, about 1 % to about 6%, about 1 % to about 5.5%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4.5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3.5%, about 1 % to about 3%, about 1 % to about 2.5%, about 1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 1.5%, about 1 .5% to about 15%, about 1.5% to about 12%, about 1 .5% to about 10%, about 1 .5% to about 9%, about 1.5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 7%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5.5%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1.5% to about 4.5%, about 1.5% to about 4%, about 1 .5% to about 3.5%, about 1 .5% to about 3%, about 1.5% to about 2.5%, about 1 .5% to about 2%, about 2% to about 15%, about 2% to about 12%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 9%, about 2% to about 8%, about 2% to about 7%, about 2% to about 6%, about 2% to about 5.5%, about 2% to about 5%, about 2% to about 4.5%, about 2% to about 4%, about 2% to about 3.5%, about 2% to about 3%, about 2% to about 2.5%, about 2.5% to about 15%, about 2.5% to about 12%, about 2.5% to about 10%, about 2.5% to about 9%, about 2.5% to about 8%, about 2.5% to about 7%, about 2.5% to about 6%, about 2.5% to about 5.5%, about 2.5% to about 5%, about 2.5% to about 4.5%, about 2.5% to about 4%, about 2.5% to about 3.5%, about 2.5% to about 3%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 3% to about 10%, about 3% to about 9%, about 3% to about 8%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3% to about 6%, about 3% to about 5.5%, about 3% to about 5%, about 3% to about 4.5%, about 3% to about 4%, about 3% to about 3.5%, about 3.5% to about 15%, about 3.5% to about 12%, about 3.5% to about 10%, about 3.5% to about 9%, about 3.5% to about 8%, about 3.5% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6%, about 3.5% to about 5.5%, about 3.5% to about 5%, about 3.5% to about 4.5%, about 3.5% to about 4%, about 4% to about 15%, about 4% to about 12%, about 4% to about 10%, about 4% to about 9%, about 4% to about 8%, about 4% to about 7%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4% to about 5.5%, about 4% to about 5%, about 4% to about 4.5%, about 4.5% to about 15%, about 4.5% to about 12%, about 4.5% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 9%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 4.5% to about 7%, about 4.5% to about 6%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, about 4.5% to about 5%, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 12%, about 5% to about 10%, about 5% to about 9%, about 5% to about 8%, about 5% to about 7%, about 5% to about 6.5%, about 5% to about 6%, about 5% to about 5.5%, about 5.5% to about 15%, about 5.5% to about 12%, about 5.5% to about 10%, about 5.5% to about 9%, about 5.5% to about 8%, about 5.5% to about 7%, about 5.5% to about 6.5%, about 5.5% to about 6%, about 6% to about 15%, about 6% to about 12%, about 6% to about 10%, about 6% to about 9%, about 6% to about 8%, about 6% to about 7%, or about 6% to about 6.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 5% to about 7%, about 5.5% to about 6.5%, about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It may be advantageous in some embodiments to choose amounts of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids of greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids of greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1 , greater than about 1.1 , greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, such as from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2. In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .2.
Solvents
Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, solvents may be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.
In preferred embodiments, the solvent includes water. In certain embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% of water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% water by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, about 55% to about 90%, about 60% to about 90%, or about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In further preferred embodiments, the solvent includes at least one nonaqueous solvent. Exemplary and non-limiting non-aqueous solvents that can be used include, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or combinations thereof. The non-aqueous solvent may be chosen from organic solvents, for example, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
Preferably, the treatment compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols can be chosen from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols can be chosen from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 polyols, C2-C8 polyols, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that can be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted polyols. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols can be chosen from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3- Cs diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 triols, any of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen. In some embodiments, the polyols are chosen from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3- hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethy 1-1 ,3- propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5- dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1 ,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1 ,2- pentanediol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least certain preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and/or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and/or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and/or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.
If present, the total amount of the non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 1 % to about 20%, from about 1 .5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably chosen from polyols. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one nonaqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, more preferably from about 1 .5% to about 12%, more preferably still from about 2% to about 11 %, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more thereof, preferably chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more thereof.
Surfactants
Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may comprise one or more cationic surfactants and/or amphoteric surfactants, and in some embodiments the compositions may comprise mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.
Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic surfactants and/or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic surfactants and/or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1 .75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01 %, or less than about 0.001 % of anionic surfactants and/or nonionic surfactants.
In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition(s) according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphen bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCI, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1 , procainehydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant chosen from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1 %, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range from about 0.001 % to about 10%, from about 0.01 % to about 8%, from about 0.1 % to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1 % to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines where the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Exemplary amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocam inopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocam inopropionate, ammonium cocam inodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanonlamine cocam inopropionate, triethanonlamine cocam inodipropionate, triethanonlamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanonlamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanonlamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanonlamine cornamphopropionate, triethanonlamine lauraminopropionate, triethanonlamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanonlamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanonlamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanonlamine cornamphopropionate, triethanonlamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropyl- sulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyam phodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyam phodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, lauryl aminopropylglycine, and lauryl diethylenediaminoglycine.
Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2- hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, or cocam idopropyl betaine may be chosen.
If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1 %, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range from about 0.001 % to about 6%, from about 0.01 % to about 4%, from about 0.1 % to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.
In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride. In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Fatty Compounds
Optionally, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In certain embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of any two or more thereof.
In some embodiments, compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound chosen from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be amino functionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that can be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11 , phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. For example, the composition may comprise at least one silicone chosen from amodimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG- 8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 17/18 Dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG- 10 Phosphate, or a mixture of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a silicone oil component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
As further examples, the silicone oil may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyl-diphenyl)trisiloxanes, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethyl- siloxysilicates.
In some embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound chosen from fatty alcohols. In certain embodiments, “fatty alcohol” refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of Cs or greater, such as, for example, Cs or greater, C10 or greater, or C12 or greater, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
By way of example, fatty alcohols may be chosen from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
Useful and non-limiting fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.
In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. For example, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1- C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10 may be used. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. As non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and/or polyethylene glycol distearates may be chosen. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and/or fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
In some embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that can be used include beeswax, hydrogenated alkyl olive esters, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides/hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candellila wax, Chinese wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax; triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as those of the hydrocarbon type and polyethylene waxes obtained from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds chosen from oils of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin (e.g. lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (e.g. polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or also linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane), mono- and/or polyesters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols (e.g. mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and of fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and of fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, dipentaerythrityl C5-C9 esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters, or polyesters of hydrogenated castor oil), perfluorinated and/or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include optionally branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more thereof.
If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 1 % to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one fatty compound chosen from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, or combinations thereof, where the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thickening Agents
Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure optionally comprise at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semisynthetic polymers, such as semisynthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturally occurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, particulate associate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar. In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be chosen from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylates copolymer and acrylates crosspolymer-4.
If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01 % to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1 % to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Direct Dyes
Optionally, hair treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more direct dyes. Direct dyes, which are different than oxidation dyes, diffuse superficially onto the hair fibers.
Direct dyes that can be chosen include natural and synthetic direct dyes, which may be cationic, anionic, or nonionic. Useful examples of direct dyes include azo direct dyes, (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryls, carbonyl dyes, azine dyes, nitro(hetero)aryl dyes, tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, porphyrin dyes, phthalocyanine dyes, xanthene direct dyes, triarylmethane dyes, natural direct dyes, and combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the direct dyes are chosen from those that comprise at least one halogenated aromatic ring.
In some embodiments, direct dyes are selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes are also called “acidic” direct dyes due to their affinity with alkaline substances. Anionic direct dyes may be selected from acid nitrate direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azinic dyes, acid triarylmethanic dyes, acid indoaminic dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, natural acid dyes, or combinations of two or more thereof.
Non-limiting examples of anionic direct dyes include Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41 , Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1 , Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1 , Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1 , Food Black 2, Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow, Acid Red 111 , Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38, or combinations of two or more thereof. As further examples, azo anionic dyes such as Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and Acid Yellow 17; anthraquinone dyes such as Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No. 2, and Acid Black 48; anthraquinone dyes such as Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No. 2, and Acid Black 48; triarylmethane dyes such as Acid Blue
1 , Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid green 3, Acid green 5, and Acid Green 50; dyes derived from xanthene such as Acid Yellow 73, Acid Red 51 , Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, and Acid Violet 9; dyes derived from indole such as Acid Blue 74; and dyes derived from quinoline such as Acid Yellow
2, Acid Yellow 3, and Acid Yellow 5, or combinations of two or more thereof, may be chosen.
Nonlimiting examples of cationic direct dyes, also called “basic” direct dyes, include Basic Red 51 , Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 , Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more thereof.
Among the natural direct dyes, non-limiting mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, or combinations of two or more thereof. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts may also be used.
According to some embodiments, the ionic direct dye(s) are chosen from blue or violet dyes such as Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 (also called EXT violet No. 2), Acid Blue 1 , Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 9, Acid Blue 74, Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferentially Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9, or combinations of two or more thereof.
If present, the total amount of direct dyes may range from about 0.001 % to about 10%, such as from about 0.001 % to about 5%, from about 0.001 % to about 3%, from about 0.001 % to about 2%, from about 0.001 % to about 1 %, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1 %, from about 0.01 % to about 5%, from about 0.01 % to about 3%, from about 0.01 % to about 2%, or from about 0.01 % to about 1 %, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Auxiliary Components
Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.
The total amount of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01 % to about 10% based on the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments the individual amounts of each component or the total amount of components may range from about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3%, or about 1 % to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure typically have a pH of less than or equal to 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all ranges and subranges thereof.
The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a gel cream, a high-, medium- or low-density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. II. COMPOSITIONS Bleaching Compositions
Compositions and methods for lightening or bleaching hair are well known. It is contemplated that treatment compositions described herein can be used with any bleaching compositions and methods. Typically, a bleaching composition is prepared at or near the time of use by mixing a bleaching base composition with an oxidizing composition, the resulting mixture (the bleaching composition) applied to the hair as desired (e.g. to achieve all-over hair lightening or to achieve highlights), left to process for a period of time necessary to lighten the color of the hair to the desired degree, which may, for example, range from about 10 minutes to about an hour, and then the bleaching composition is rinsed from the hair.
While not intending to be limiting of bleaching base compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure, typical bleaching base compositions comprise one or more persulfate compounds, one or more silicate compounds, one or more oxidizing agents, and one or more alkalizing agents. Conventional bleaching base compositions may also comprise additional components, for example oils, thickeners, solvents, or the like. In various embodiments, bleaching base compositions that can be used can be in the form of a solid, a powder (pulverulent), a gel, a paste, etc. In some typical embodiments, the bleaching base composition is pulverulent, and comprises less than 1 %, less than 0.5%, or less than 0.1 % water.
For example, persulfate compounds that may be present in a bleaching base composition include potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate, or mixtures thereof. Persulfate compounds are typically present in an amount of at least about 10%, such as at least about 20%, at least about 30%, at least about 40%, or at least about 50%, for example from about 20% to about 70%, about 30% to about 65%, about 45% to about 65%, about 40% to about 60%, about 50% to about 60%, or about 50% to about 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
Silicates that may be present in the bleaching base compositions include lithium, sodium, and potassium silicates, metasilicates, and/or disilicates, such as aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, aluminum magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, strontium silicate, potassium silicate, potassium metasilicate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, or any mixture thereof. Typically, the total amount of silicates will range from about 1 % to about 40%, such as from about 1 % to about 35%, about 1 % to about 30%, about 1 % to about 25%, about 1 % to about 20%, about 5% to about 40%, about 5% to about 35%, about 5% to about 30%, about 5% to about 25%, about 5% to about 20%, about 10% to about 40%, about 10% to about 35%, about 10% to about 30%, about 10% to about 25%, about 10% to about 20%, about 15% to about 40%, about 15% to about 35%, about 15% to about 30%, about 15% to about 25%, or about 15% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
In some cases, bleaching base compositions optionally include one or more oxidizing agents in addition to persulfate compounds. For example, the one or more additional oxidizing agents may be chosen from perborates, percarbonates, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof. In some cases, the bleaching base compositions include one or more of alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, redox enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases, or 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricase. If present, the total amount of additional oxidizing agents typically ranges from about 5% to about 45%, such as from about 5% to about 40%, from about 5% to about 35%, from about 5% to about 30%, from about 5% to about 25%, from about 5% to about 20%, from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
Hair bleaching base compositions may also include one or more alkaline agents other than silicate compounds. For example, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, organic amines such as 2- amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (AMP), 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, and guanidine, salts of any of the foregoing, or combinations of two or more thereof may be used. In other cases, additional alkaline agents may include inorganic alkaline agents such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, ammonium carbonate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, or magnesium carbonate. If present, the total amount of additional alkaline agents typically ranges from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 0.1 % to about 15%, about 0.1 % to about 13%, about 0.1 % to about 11 %, about 1 % to about 15%, about 1 % to about 13%, about 1 % to about 11 %, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 13%, about 3% to about 11 %, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 13%, or about 5% to about 11 % by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition. In some cases, bleaching base compositions may include one or more thickening agents, such as, for example, carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers, hydrophobically-modified cross-linked copolymers of carboxylic acid and alkyl carboxylate vinyl polymers, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxylpropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, nitro cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xanthan gum, arabic gum, tragacanth gum, carob gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, starch, algae colloids, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, alginic acid-based polymers, propylene glycol esters, polyethyleneimine, bentonite, aluminum magnesium silicate, laponite, hectonite, anhydrous silicic acid, or combinations of two or more thereof. If present, the total amount of thickening agents may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10%, such as from about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 6%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 12%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 6%, about 1 % to about 4%, or about 1 % to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition.
In some cases, bleaching base compositions include one or more oils. The oils may be oils of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons, optionally branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids, optionally branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols, mono- and/or polyesters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, perfluorinated and/or organofluorinated oils, volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, fluorosilicone oils, or combinations of two or more thereof. For example, liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petrolatum, mineral oils, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, may be used. If present, the total amount of oils is typically less than about 5%, such as from about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, or about 0.1 % to about 1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the bleaching base composition. Typically, bleaching base compositions comprise one or more auxiliary components such as, for example, preservatives, cationic conditioning compounds including cationic conditioning polymers, rheology-modifying agents, chelating agents, fatty substances, fragrances, colorants, fillers, amino acids, surfactants (cationic, anionic, nonionic, and/or amphoteric), dessicants, de-dusting agents, ceramides, pH adjusting agents, etc.
Prior to applying the bleaching base composition to the hair, it is generally mixed with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example water. Typically, oxidizing compositions can comprise additional components, such as, for example, rheology-modifying agents, chelants, fatty substances, ceramides, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc.
The oxidizing agent can be, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, alkali metal ferricyanides, or persalts, such as perborates or persulphates. The total amount of oxidizing agent and carrier can vary depending on the desired strength of the oxidizing composition. For example, the total amount of oxidizing agent may be from about 1 % to about 40%, such as from about 1 % to about 30%, about 1 % to about 20%, about 1 % to about 15%, about 1 % to about 12%, about 3% to about 20%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 12%, about 7% to about 20%, about 7% to about 15%, about 7% to about 12%, about 9% to about 20%, about 9% to about 15%, or about 9% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition. In some cases, the oxidizing composition is aqueous, and the oxidizing agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of hydrogen peroxide. For example, the hydrogen peroxide may be present in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 20%, such as about 7% to about 15%, about 8% to about 13%, about 8% to about 10%, about 9% to about 13%, or about 10% to about 12%, for example about 7%, about 8%, about 9% about 10%, about 11 %, about 12%, about 13%, about 14%, or about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition may be, for instance, 20V, 30V, or 40V hydrogen peroxide compositions.
The hair bleaching base composition is typically mixed with an oxidizing composition at a ratio ranging from about 1 :5 to about 5: 1 , such as from about 1 :4 to about 4:1 , about 1 :3 to about 3:1 , or about 1 :2 to about 2:1 , or is, for example, about 5:1 , about 4: 1 , about 3: 1 , about 2: 1 , about 1.5:1 , about 1 :1 , about 1 :1.5, about 1 :2, about 1 :3, about 1 :4, or about 1 :5, generally at or near the time of use, to form the bleaching composition. The mixture is generally alkaline, having a pH of greater than about 8, such as greater than about 9, or greater than about 10, for example ranging from about 9 to about 12, or from about 10 to about 12. Typically, once the bleaching composition is prepared it is applied to hair that may be wet, damp, or dry, optionally covered (e.g. with foil), optionally heated (e.g. with a blow dryer or hood dryer), and after a processing time sufficient to achieve the desired level of hair lightening, the hair is rinsed.
Optionally, bleaching compositions for use in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one direct dye such as those described above. In some embodiments, the bleaching composition comprises at least one direct dye with at least one halogenated aromatic ring, for example one or more xanthene dyes, triarylmethane dyes, azo dyes, etc. Nonlimiting examples of xanthene dyes comprising at least one halogenated aromatic ring include D&C Red 28, D&C Red 27, Eosin Y, Eosin B, Erythrosine B, and Rose Bengal, and nonlimiting examples of triarylmethane dyes include tetrabromophenol blue, tetrabromosulfonephthalein, bromsulphthalein, bromocresol green, and bromothymol blue. If present, the total amount of direct dyes can range from about 0.001 % to about 10%, such as from about 0.001 % to about 5%, from about 0.001 % to about 3%, from about 0.001 % to about 2%, from about 0.001 % to about 1 %, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1 %, from about 0.01 % to about 5%, from about 0.01 % to about 3%, from about 0.01 % to about 2%, or from about 0.01 % to about 1 %, by weight, relative to the total weight of the bleaching composition.
Although the foregoing hair bleaching base compositions, oxidizing compositions, and processes for lightening hair are disclosed for use in the methods according to the disclosure, those skilled in the art will appreciate that variations of hair bleaching compositions and processes can also be used. Thus, it is not intended that the foregoing bleaching compositions and processes are limiting of methods according to the disclosure.
Dyeing Compositions
Compositions and methods for dyeing hair are well known. It is contemplated that treatment compositions described herein can advantageously be used in connection with a permanent (oxidative) dye process. Typically, an oxidative dye composition is prepared at or near the time of use by mixing a dye base composition comprising oxidative dye compounds with an oxidizing composition, the resulting mixture (the oxidative dye composition) applied to the hair as desired, left to process for a period of time, which may, for example, range from about 10 minutes to about an hour, and then the oxidative dye composition is rinsed from the hair.
Oxidative dye compounds that can be used include oxidation bases which may be optionally combined with one or more couplers. By way of example, the oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3- methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis(|3- hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline,
2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-pheny lenediam ine, 2-isopropy l-para-pheny lenediam ine, N -( |3- hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'- aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-|3- hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4- aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5- aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1 -(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para- phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-|3- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido- 2-aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4- diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.
Other pyridine oxidation bases can include the 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition salts thereof described, for example pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine-2- carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 , 5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 , 5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpyperazinium-1 -yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine; and the addition salts thereof.
More particularly, oxidation bases can be selected from 3- aminopyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 by: one (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group wherein said alkyl group can be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; one heterocycloalkyl group containing from 5 to 7 members chain, and from 1 to 3 heteroatomes, potentially cationic, potentially substituted by one or more (Ci-Ce)alkyl, such as di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium; or one (Ci-Ce)alkoxy potentially substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a- hydroxyalkoxy, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,
2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds such as 4,5-diamino-1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -([3- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1 -phenylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1 -methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1 ,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1- benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1 -tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3- methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -ethy l-3-(4'- methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-
3-hydroxymethyl-1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl- pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1 -isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino- 1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5- diamino-1 -methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-1 - methyl-pyrazole, and the addition salts thereof, 4,5-diamino-1-(-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used. Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N- dihydro-pyrazolopyrazolones, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3- isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-
(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-6, 7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2- dimethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1 , 2-diethy 1-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2- hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3- dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8- tetrahydro-1 H,6H-pyridazino[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 4-amino-1 , 2-diethy l-5-(pyrrol id in-1 - yl)-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1 , 2-diethy I- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2- a]pyrazol-1 -one.
4,5-diamino-1-(-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one and/or a salt thereof can be used as heterocyclic bases.
Dyeing compositions that can be used may optionally further comprise one or more couplers. Among these couplers, mention may be made especially of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof.
Mention may be made, for example, of 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(f3>— hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol (3- amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol), 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(l3>- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(l3>-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methoxybenzene, 1 ,3- diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis(2,4-diamino-phenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1- dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1 -!3>-hydroxyethylamino-3,4- methylenedioxybenzene, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-1 -naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4- hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1 -N-(l3>-hydroxyethyl)- amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(l3>-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxy- indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1 -H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1 -phenyl-3- methyl-pyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1 , 5-b]-1 , 2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]- 1 ,2,4-triazole, and 6-methylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof with an acid, and mixtures thereof.
In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are especially selected from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates, and acetates.
The oxidation base(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from about 0.001 % to about 10%, such as from about 0.001 % to about 5%, from about 0.001 % to about 3%, from about 0.001 % to about 2%, from about 0.001 % to about 1 %, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1 %, from about 0.01 % to about 5%, from about 0.01 % to about 3%, from about 0.01 % to about 2%, or from about 0.01 % to about 1 %, by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidative dye base or oxidative dye composition. The coupler(s), if they are present, may be present in a total amount ranging from about 0.001 % to about 10%, such as from about 0.001 % to about 5%, from about 0.001 % to about 3%, from about 0.001 % to about 2%, from about 0.001 % to about 1 %, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1 %, from about 0.01 % to about 5%, from about 0.01 % to about 3%, from about 0.01 % to about 2%, or from about 0.01 % to about 1 %, by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidative dye base or oxidative dye composition.
Prior to applying the oxidative dye base composition to the hair, it is generally mixed with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example water. Typically, oxidizing compositions can comprise additional components, such as, for example, rheologymodifying agents, chelants, fatty substances, ceramides, pH adjusting agents, amino acids, carboxylic acids, preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc. The oxidizing agent can be, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, alkali metal ferricyanides, or persalts, such as perborates or persulphates. The total amount of oxidizing agent and carrier can vary depending on the desired strength of the oxidizing composition. For example, the total amount of oxidizing agent may be from about 1 % to about 40%, such as from about 1 % to about 30%, about 1 % to about 20%, about 1 % to about 15%, about 1 % to about 12%, about 3% to about 20%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 12%, about 7% to about 20%, about 7% to about 15%, about 7% to about 12%, about 9% to about 20%, about 9% to about 15%, or about 9% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition. In some cases, the oxidizing composition is aqueous, and the oxidizing agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of hydrogen peroxide. For example, the hydrogen peroxide may be present in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 20%, such as about 7% to about 15%, about 8% to about 13%, about 8% to about 10%, about 9% to about 13%, or about 10% to about 12%, for example about 7%, about 8%, about 9% about 10%, about 11 %, about 12%, about 13%, about 14%, or about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition may be, for instance, 20V, 30V, or 40V hydrogen peroxide compositions.
The oxidative dye base composition is typically mixed with an oxidizing composition at a ratio ranging from about 1 :5 to about 5:1 , such as from about 1 :4 to about 4:1 , about 1 :3 to about 3:1 , or about 1 :2 to about 2:1 , or is, for example, about 5:1 , about 4:1 , about 3:1 , about 2:1 , about 1.5:1 , about 1 :1 , about 1 :1.5, about 1 :2, about 1 :3, about 1 :4, or about 1 :5, generally at or near the time of use, to form the oxidative hair dye composition. The mixture is generally alkaline, having a pH of greater than about 7, such as greater than about 8, greater than about 9, or greater than about 10, for example ranging from about 7 to about 10.5, or from about 7.5 to about 10. Typically, once the mixture is prepared it is applied to hair that may be wet, damp, or dry, optionally covered (e.g. with foil), optionally heated (e.g. with a blow dryer or hood dryer), and after a processing time sufficient to achieve the desired color, the hair is rinsed.
Although the foregoing oxidative dye base compositions, oxidizing compositions, and processes for dyeing hair are disclosed for use in the methods according to the disclosure, those skilled in the art will appreciate that variations of hair dyeing compositions and processes can also be used. Thus, it is not intended that the foregoing dyeing compositions and processes are limiting of methods according to the disclosure.
Hair Shaping Compositions
Compositions and methods for shaping hair are well known. For example, hair shaping compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may be compositions for permanent waving, relaxing, or straightening hair. Nonlimiting examples of permanent wave compositions and processes that can be used in methods according to the disclosure include alkaline or cold wave compositions and processes, acid wave compositions and processes, ammonia-free wave compositions and processes, thiol-free wave compositions and processes, and low-pH wave compositions and processes. Non-limiting examples of hair straightening and relaxing compositions and processes that can be used in methods according to the disclosure include thiol-based straightening and relaxing compositions and processes, Japanese straightening and relaxing compositions and processes, hydroxide-based straightening and relaxing compositions and processes, low-pH straightening and relaxing compositions and processes, base and no-base straightening and relaxing compositions and processes, and keratin straightening compositions and processes, which are also called Brazilian keratin treatments or smoothing treatments.
Such compositions comprise at least one agent for reshaping the hair, which may, for example, be a reducing agent and/or alkaline agent. In at least some cases, hair shaping compositions alter the shape of the hair by opening the disulfide bonds of the keratin fibers, often with a sulfur-based reducing agent. After the disulfide bond is opened and the hair re-shaped by mechanical means, for example using rods or rollers, the bonds are reconstituted by means of an oxidizing or “fixing” agent. The shape of the hair obtained by such processes is generally considered permanent in that it persists even through one or more styling and shampooing processes. However, at least certain hair shaping compositions and processes do not include a step of applying an oxidizing or fixing composition.
In various embodiments, hair shaping compositions used in methods described herein comprise at least one reducing agent, which may be a thiol-based reducing agent. The term “thiol-based” means a compound having one or more thiol ( — SH) groups, said thiol group(s) being optionally in the form of an organic or inorganic salt. For example, thiol-based reducing agents present in the shaping composition can be chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto ( — SH or — S — ) groups, or disulfide ( — S — S — ) groups, preferably — SH groups, and may include at least one other function chosen from carboxylic acid, amine, amide, ester, and alcohol functions. For example, the reducing agents can be chosen from those of formulae (III) or (IV), or the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, tautomers thereof, or solvates thereof such as hydrates:
R— SH (III)
R’— S— R” (IV) wherein:
• R represents: o linear or branched (Ci -Cs)alky I, preferably (Ci -Ce)alky I , which may be: i. optionally substituted, preferably substituted, with one or more groups chosen from carboxy C(O)OH, (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino, hydroxyl — OH, and thiol — SH, and/or ii. optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from — 0 — , — S — , — N(R”’) — wherein R’” represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, C(O) or combinations thereof such as — 0 — C(O)— , — C(O)— 0— , — N(R”’)— C(O)— , or — C(O)— N(R”’)— ; or o (hetero)aryl optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol, or carboxy groups; and
• R’ and R”, which may be identical or different, are chosen from (Ci-C8)alkyl groups, preferably (Ci-Ce)alkyl groups, substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, thiol, or carboxy;
• or alternatively R’ and R” form, together with the sulfur atom which bears them, a 5- to 7-membered heterocyclic group, which is preferably saturated, which comprises from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, and which is optionally substituted (e.g. with one or more (Ci-Ce)alkyl groups optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol, or carboxy groups), more preferentially the heterocyclic group is a dithiolane group optionally substituted with a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more carboxy groups.
In some preferred embodiments, reducing agents are chosen from compounds of formulae (III) wherein R is chosen from a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or carboxy groups, or a 5- to 10-membered and preferably 9- or 10-membered bicyclic heteroaryl, comprising from 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from O, S, or N, preferably N, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or thiol groups. In other preferred embodiments, reducing agents are chosen from compounds of formula (III), wherein R represents a linear or branched (Ci-C8)alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, more preferentially a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted as described above. In further preferred embodiments, reducing agents are chosen from compounds of formula (IV), wherein R’ and R”, which may be identical or different, represent a (Ci-C8)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, thiol, or carboxy. In still further preferred embodiments, reducing agents are chosen from compounds of formula (IV), wherein R’ and R” form, together with the sulfur atom which bears them, a 5- to 7-membered heterocyclic group, preferably saturated, which comprises from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, and which is optionally substituted with one or more (Ci-Ce)alkyl groups optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol, or carboxy groups, more preferentially the heterocyclic group is a dithiolane group optionally substituted with a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol, or carboxy groups.
By way of example, useful thiol-based reducing agents may be chosen from cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 3- mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N- acetylcysteine, or from thioglycolic or thiolactic acid esters or amides, in particular glyceryl monothioglycolate, or combinations of two or more thereof. These reducing agents are preferably in the form of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium or calcium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, or amino alcohol salts. In preferred embodiments, useful reducing agents are chosen from thioglycolic acid and salts thereof, thiolactic acid and salts thereof, thiosalicylic acid and salts thereof, and/or cysteamine and salts thereof. Ammonium thioglycolate and glyceryl monothioglycolate are particularly preferred reducing agents in hair shaping compositions.
Reducing agents such as keratin hydrolysate, a-keto acids such as glyoxylic acid, sodium hydroxide, mercaptans, phosphines, or formaldehyde may also be used in hair shaping compositions, as well as sulfite, disulfite, bisulfites, metabisulfites, hydrosulfites, hyposulfites, pyrosulfites, or hydrogen sulfite, particularly in the form of an alkali, alkaline earth, or ammonium salt.
The reducing agents are generally present in the shaping compositions in amounts less than about 15% or less than about 10%, for example less than about 8%, less than about 6%, less than about 4%, or less than about 2%, such as in an amount ranging from about 0.1 % to about 10%, from about 0.1 % to about 8%, from about 0.1 % to about 6%, from about 0.1 % to about 4%, or from about 0.2% to about 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the shaping composition.
Hair shaping compositions may also include at least one alkaline agent, either in combination with a reducing agent or instead of a reducing agent. For example, organic alkaline agents such as alkanolamines, in particular mono-, di-, or tri-alkanolamines, hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkylamines, such as 2-amino-2-methylpropanol triethanolamine, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids such as those described above, or the polyamines of formula (V) may be present in hair shaping compositions:
Figure imgf000053_0001
where:
W is a divalent Ci-Ce alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a Ci-Ce alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as 0, or NRU; and
Rx, Ry, Rz, Rt, and Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce alkyl, a Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl, or a Ci-Ce aminoalkyl radical.
Examples of compounds of formula (V) include 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3- diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and/or spermidine.
Alkanolamines are organic amines comprising a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C-i-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals. For example, hair shaping compositions may include monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines, or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N- dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol, and/or tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane. In some cases, ammonium carbamate is used, either alone or in combination with further alkaline agents such as ammonia and/or ammonium (bi)carbonate.
Hair shaping compositions are typically basic, having a pH that is greater than 7, for example greater than about 7.5, greater than about 8, greater than about 8.5, greater than about 9, greater than about 10, greater than about 11 , or greater than about 12. In some cases, the hair shaping composition has a pH ranging from about 7.5 to about 11 , from about 7.5 to about 10, from about 7.5 to about 9.5, from about 7.75 to about 9.25, from about 8 to about 9.25, or from about 8 to about 9. In some cases, the pH of the hair shaping composition may range from about 8 to about 13, such as from about 9 to about 13, from about 9.5 to about 13, or from about 10 to about 13.
Hair shaping compositions typically also include additional components such as solvents, thickening agents, emulsifying agents, pH adjusters, conditioning agents, preservatives, fragrances, etc.
At least some hair shaping processes include a step of applying an oxidizing or fixing composition (also called a “neutralizing” composition) to the hair after the shaping composition has been left on the hair for a period of time to process, for example ranging from about 15 minutes to about 1 hour, or from about 20 minutes to about 45 minutes.
The fixing composition may comprise hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent. Typically, hydrogen peroxide is present in an amount less than about 15%, such as less than about 10%, less than about 8%, less than about 6%, less than about 4%, for example ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fixing composition.
In some cases, the fixing composition comprises crosslinking agents capable of crosslinking the bonds in the keratin fiber. Such crosslinking agents may be chosen from diols, carboxylic acids, amines, diamines, reducing sugars, carbonyls, or carboxylic acids, for example 1 ,7-diaminoheptane, 1 ,4-diaminobutane, 6-aminohexan- 1 -ol, 6-amino hexanoic acid, 2-aminoacetic acid, 2-amino-2-oxo-ethanoic acid, 4- aminobutanoic acid, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, galactose, mannose, 3-(2- hydroxyethyl)-2-oxazolidinone, hexane-2, 5-dione, butane-2, 3-dione, ethanedial, 2- hydroxy-butanedial, 4-oxo-pentanoic acid, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1 ,6-hexanediol, 1 ,2,4- butanetriol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, butanedioic acid, heptanedioic acid, oxoethanoic acid, 2,2-dihydroxyethanoic acid, 2,2’-oxybis(2-hydroxy)-ethanoic acid, 2-hydroxypropane- 1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, 1 ,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid, 1 ,3-dioxolan-2-one, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, diphenyl carbonate, 1 ,3-dioxan-2-one, or 4- methyl-1 ,3-dioxolan-2-one.
Other hair shaping compositions work by fixing the keratin in place rather than by breaking the keratin bonds. Brazilian straightening treatments, for example, use formalin optionally in combination with one or more silicone polymers.
While not required, a step of heating the hair to which a hair shaping composition has been applied is often used in hair shaping processes that can be used in methods according to the disclosure.
Although the foregoing hair shaping compositions can be used in the methods according to the disclosure, those skilled in the art will appreciate that variations of hair shaping compositions and processes can also be used. Thus, it is not intended that the foregoing are limiting of methods according to the disclosure.
Hair Care Compositions
The hair care compositions that can be used in methods and routines according to the disclosure are those that are commonly used in hair care routines, such as a shampoo, a rinse-out conditioner, a hair mask, a hair rinse, a treatment oil or serum, or the like. It should be understood that the types of hair care treatment compositions used in methods and routines according to the disclosure can vary, and are not intended to be limited.
In general, shampoos are liquid, gel, or cream formulations capable of cleansing both the hair and the scalp. Shampoo compositions are typically waterbased and contain cleansing surfactants such as anionic (e.g. alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates) and amphoteric (e.g. derivatives of betaines) surfactants. Shampoos may also contain other components such as cationic surfactants, conditioning polymers, thickeners, shine enhancers, foam boosters, moisturizers, vitamins, actives such as anti-dandruff or anti-parasitic agents, etc. Shampoos can be conditioning or 2- in-1 shampoos, volumizing shampoos, curl-enhancing shampoos, treatment shampoos (e.g. anti-dandruff shampoos, shampoos for eliminating excess sebum, etc.), or professional shampoos used in a salon setting that are targeted for certain types of hair or hair that has undergone certain treatments such as permanent waving, straightening, etc. Conditioners, which can be rinse-out or leave-in compositions, tend to be in the form of a cream, an emulsion, or a gel-emulsion. Typically, a rinse-out conditioner is applied to the hair immediately before and/or after the hair is shampooed, left on the hair for a period of time that is typically less than about 30 minutes, such as less than about 15 minutes, less than about 10 minutes, or less than about 5 minutes, and rinsed from the hair. These compositions generally include cationic surfactants (e.g. fatty amines or quaternary ammonium compounds) and often include additional conditioning agents such as silicone oils or silicone derivatives, natural proteins or oils such as silk proteins or plant oils, ceramides, film forming polymers, etc., and typically include additional components as well, such as thickeners, vitamins, water, etc.
Leave-on conditioners (also knowns as hair masks or masques) include many of the same components as rinse-out conditions, but generally in varying amounts. A leave-on conditioner may also be applied to the hair following or preceding a step of shampooing the hair, but is generally left on the hair for several hours, such as overnight or until the hair is next shampooed in the ordinary course of hygiene. In some cases, the hair may be heated, e.g. with a blow dryer, hood dryer, etc., while the mask is on the hair.
A hair rinse is a composition that can lightly cleanse the hair or can provide specific benefits to hair after the hair is shampooed, for example ease of detangling, shine-enhancing, or restoring the pH of the hair. Hair rinse compositions are typically in the form of an aqueous-based liquid having a lower viscosity than a shampoo or a conditioner.
Hair treatment oils or serums are generally water-free products based on silicone oils or plant oils, for example argan oil. The oil or serum composition may be applied to the hair following or preceding a step of shampooing the hair, and is generally left on the hair for several hours, such as overnight or until the hair is next shampooed in the ordinary course of hygiene. In some cases, the hair may be heated, e.g. with a blow dryer, hood dryer, etc., while the oil or serum is on the hair.
III. METHODS
The disclosure relates to methods and routines for treating keratin fibers, such as hair. The methods of treating hair may be methods of reducing or preventing hair damage and/or breakage, protecting hair from damage and/or breakage, restoring hair fiber moisture equilibrium, providing hair fiber strength, improving hair fiber elasticity, and/or maintaining hair fiber moisture equilibrium, strength, and/or elasticity. In some embodiments, the methods of treating hair prevent hair damage from becoming too great to repair, i.e. prevent irreversible hair damage. Surprisingly, hair treated in accordance with methods and routines disclosed herein has less damage, less breakage, lower elasticity, and/or greater strength than hair similarly damaged but not treated according to the disclosure.
The methods and routines comprise at least application of a first composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time (“processing time,” “resting period,” or “leave-in period”), and optionally rinsing the hair, before, simultaneously with, and/or after applying a second composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the second composition on the hair for the leave-in period, and optionally rinsing the hair.
The method may include treating keratin fibers with a treatment composition in connection with hair care routines. The methods may also include treating keratin fibers with a treatment composition in connection with a process for dyeing hair, e.g. imparting the color of the hair with a direct dye, such as, for example if a hair treatment composition and/or bleaching composition used in the methods includes direct dyes. The methods may also include treating keratin fibers with a treatment composition in connection with a process for permanent reshaping of hair and/or lightening hair. The treatment composition can be applied to the hair before and/or after a hair dye composition, a reshaping composition, a lightening composition, and/or a hair care composition is applied to the hair or may be applied to the hair simultaneously with such a hair dye composition, a reshaping composition, a lightening composition, and/or a hair care composition.
The composition applied in the second application step may or may not be the same composition as in the first step, i.e. the same composition may be used in each step or different compositions may be used in each step. If different, the compositions used may differ in types of components, amounts of components, or both. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, a method or routine according to the disclosure that comprises a first application of a first composition and a second application of a second composition as described herein contemplates that the first and second compositions may be the same or may be different. For example, a first step may comprise applying a composition as described herein, e.g. a composition comprising arginine, glycine betaine, and citric acid, to the hair, followed by a second step which comprises applying the same first composition to the hair. As another example, a first step may comprise applying a composition as described herein, e.g. a composition comprising arginine, glycine betaine, and citric acid, to the hair followed by a second step which comprises applying a different second composition as described herein, e.g. a composition comprising serine, proline betaine, and lactic acid, to the hair. Thus, the use of “first composition,” “second composition,” or the like should not be construed as limiting of the components and/or amounts thereof present in the composition(s).
The leave-in period may last for a period of time deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the keratin fibers, such as about 30 seconds, about 1 minute, about 2 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 10 minutes, about
15 minutes, about 20 minutes, about 30 minutes, about 45 minutes, about 1 hour, about 2 hours, etc., or may range from a period of time using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits. By way of non-limiting example, the leave-in period may range from about 30 seconds to about 60 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 45 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 30 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 20 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 15 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 10 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 5 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 20 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 10 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 5 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 60 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 45 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 30 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 20 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 15 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 10 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 5 minutes, etc.
The period of time which the dyeing, bleaching, caring, and/or hair shaping composition is left on the hair may last for an amount of time appropriate to achieve the desired level of dyeing, bleaching/lightening, caring, and hair shaping, respectively, which may range from about 1 minute to about 90 minutes, such as from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, from about 3 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 60 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 35 minutes, from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, from about 10 minutes to about 45 minutes, from about 10 minutes to about 30 minutes, from about 10 minutes to about 20 minutes, or from about 15 minutes to about 25 minutes. Optionally, the hair may be heated, for example with a blow dryer, hood dryer, etc., while the shaping composition is on the hair.
In at least some embodiments, an oxidizing or fixing composition is applied to the hair after the hair shaping composition is applied to the hair, for example after a desired leave-in or processing time.
The period of time between first and second application steps, which is also referred to herein as a “mid-treatment pause time” or “pause time,” is generally less than about 24 hours, preferably less than about 12 hours, preferably less than about 10 hours, less than about 8 hours, less than about 6 hours, less than about 4 hours, less than about 2 hours, or less than about 1 hour, although in at least some embodiments the second application may follow immediately or substantially immediately after the first application, with or without intermediate rinsing. For example, the pause time can range from about 1 minute to about 3 hours, such as about 5 minutes to about 3 hours, about 1 minute to about 2 hours, about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, about 1 minute to about 1 .5 hours, about 5 minutes to about 1 .5 hours, about 1 minute to about 1 hour, about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 1 minute to about 20 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 20 minutes, about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 15 minutes, about 1 minute to about 10 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 10 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 3 hours, about 10 minutes to about 3 hours, about 2 minutes to about 2 hours, about 10 minutes to about 2 hours, about 2 minutes to about 1.5 hours, about 10 minutes to about 1.5 hours, about 2 minutes to about 1 hour, about 10 minutes to about 1 hour, about 2 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 10 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 10 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 20 minutes, about 10 minutes to about 20 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 15 minutes, about 10 minutes to about 15 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 10 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 3 hours, about 15 minutes to about 3 hours, about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, about 15 minutes to about 2 hours, about 5 minutes to about 1.5 hours, about 15 minutes to about 1.5 hours, about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, about 15 minutes to about 1 hour, about 5 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 15 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 15 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 20 minutes, about 15 minutes to about 20 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 15 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 10 minutes, about 10 minutes to about 3 hours, about 20 minutes to about 3 hours, about 10 minutes to about 2 hours, about 20 minutes to about 2 hours, about 10 minutes to about 1.5 hours, about 20 minutes to about 1.5 hours, about 10 minutes to about 1 hour, about 20 minutes to about 1 hour, about 10 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 20 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 10 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 20 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 10 minutes to about 20 minutes, about 10 minutes to about 15 minutes, about 15 minutes to about 3 hours, about 30 minutes to about 3 hours, about 15 minutes to about 2 hours, about 30 minutes to about 2 hours, about 15 minutes to about 1 .5 hours, about 30 minutes to about 1 .5 hours, about 15 minutes to about 1 hour, about 30 minutes to about 1 hour, about 15 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 30 minutes to about 45 m inutes, about 15 m inutes to about 30 m inutes, about 15 m inutes to about 20 m inutes, about 20 minutes to about 3 hours, about 20 minutes to about 2 hours, about 20 minutes to about 1.5 hours, about 20 minutes to about 1 hour, about 20 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 20 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 30 minutes to about 3 hours, about 30 minutes to about 2 hours, about 30 minutes to about 1 .5 hours, about 30 minutes to about 1 hour, or about 30 minutes to about 45 minutes. In preferred embodiments, the pause time is not longer than about 4 hours, preferably not longer than about 3 hours, more preferably not longer than about 2 hours, more preferably not longer than about 1.5 hours, more preferably still not longer than about 1 hour, most preferably not longer than about 30 minutes.
The mid-treatment pause time can be measured by considering (a) the time when the application of the first composition is complete, the time when the optional leave-in period of time ends, or the time when the first composition is rinsed from the hair, until (b) the application of the second composition begins. Thus, for example, a method according to the disclosure that comprises a mid-treatment pause time of 10 minutes, can comprise a first step of applying a first composition onto the hair, and once the hair is fully treated with the composition, a pause time of 10 minutes can elapse and at the end of 10 minutes a second composition, which may be the same or different as the first composition, can be applied to the hair, with or without intermediate rinsing. In this example, if the first composition is not rinsed from the hair immediately or at any time during the pause time, the leave-in time for the first composition and the mid-treatment pause time can overlap or be the same. As another example, a method according to the disclosure that comprises a mid-treatment pause time of 30 minutes can comprise a first step of applying a first composition onto the hair, and once the hair is fully treated with the composition, the first treatment may remain on the hair for a leave-in period of 15 minutes, the hair may be rinsed, and a pause time of 30 minutes can elapse from the time the hair is rinsed until a second composition, which may be the same or different as the first composition, is applied to the hair. In this example, the leave-in time for the first composition and the midtreatment pause time do not overlap, and the total time between when the application of the first composition is complete, and application of the second composition begins is cumulative of both the leave-in time and the mid-treatment pause time. Thus, it is to be understood that the leave-in time and the pause time may partially or completely overlap, or may be exclusive.
Although not required, various methods and routines according to the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example during the leave-in period while the composition is on the hair, e.g. during the optional leave-in period of the first application step and/or the second application step. For example, a blow dryer, hood dryer, etc., may be used.
By way of non-limiting example, a treatment routine according to the disclosure may comprise (1 ) applying a first composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable leave-in processing time either with or without heating, and optionally rinsing the hair, and (2) applying a second composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable leave-in processing time either with or without heating, and optionally rinsing the hair, with or without a midtreatment pause time.
Another exemplary treatment routine may comprise (1 ) applying a first composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable leave-in processing time either with or without heating, and optionally rinsing the hair, (2) observing a mid-treatment pause time as described herein, e.g. ranging from about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, and (3) applying a second composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable leave-in processing time either with or without heating, and optionally rinsing the hair.
Methods and routines according to the disclosure can be used for treating hair before, during, and/or after a process that includes one or more other hair compositions, such as, for example, hair dye compositions, hair shaping compositions, hair bleaching compositions, hair straightening compositions, permanent waving compositions, etc. Thus, it is contemplated that methods and routines according to the disclosure may be used in connection with other hair treatment processes, such as chemical hair treatment processes, thereby reducing, minimizing, or preventing damage to the hair that would otherwise be expected to result from such harsh chemical treatments.
For example, one such routine may include (1 ) applying a first composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable leave-in time, and optionally rinsing the hair, (2) applying a second composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable leave-in processing time, and optionally rinsing the hair, where step (2) may follow step (1 ) with or without a midtreatment pause time, and (3) substantially immediately thereafter, applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or permanent waving composition to the hair.
Another such routine may include (1 ) applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or permanent waving composition to the hair, and with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, (2) applying a first composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable leave-in time, and optionally rinsing the hair, and (3) applying a second composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable leave-in processing time, and optionally rinsing the hair, where step (3) may follow step (2) with or without a midtreatment pause time.
The methods and routines according to the disclosure may also include a step of (1 ) applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure onto the hair, optionally leaving the treatment composition on the hair for a leave-in period, and optionally rinsing the treatment composition from the hair, before, simultaneously with, and/or after a step of (2) applying a hair care composition such as a shampoo, a rinse- out conditioner, a hair mask, a hair rinse, a treatment oil or serum, or the like to the hair, optionally leaving the hair care composition on the hair for a leave-in period, and optionally rinsing the hair care composition from the hair. Steps (1 ) and/or (2) may be repeated one or more times, without limitation on the order thereof. For example, a method may comprise (1 ) applying a treatment composition, followed by (2) applying a hair care composition, followed by either (1A) applying a second treatment composition which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition, or (2A) applying a second hair care composition which may be the same or different than the first hair care composition, and so on, optionally with rinsing the hair between one or more steps. As another example, a method may comprise (2) applying a hair care composition, followed by (1 ) applying a treatment composition, followed by either (1 A) applying a second treatment composition which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition, or (2A) applying a second hair care composition which may be the same or different than the first hair care composition, and so on, optionally with rinsing the hair between one or more steps. As yet another example, a method may comprise (1 ) applying a treatment composition, followed by (1A) applying a second treatment composition which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition, followed by (2) applying a hair care composition, followed by (2A) applying a second hair care composition which may be the same or different than the first hair care composition, and so on, optionally with rinsing the hair between one or more steps. It is also contemplated that various steps (e.g. step (1 ) and step (2)) may occur simultaneously. Thus, it is to be understood that the method is not limited by the order or number of steps.
The methods and routines may, in various embodiments, be for reducing or preventing hair damage and/or breakage, protecting hair from damage and/or breakage, restoring hair fiber moisture equilibrium, providing hair fiber strength, improving hair fiber elasticity, and/or maintaining hair fiber moisture equilibrium, strength, and/or elasticity.
It is to be understood that additional subsequent applications of compositions according to the disclosure are also contemplated in various routines, e.g. a third application, a fourth application, etc., wherein each subsequent application may follow the previous application with or without a mid-treatment pause time and may use a composition that is the same as or different than that used in any of the preceding steps. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, a method or routine according to the disclosure that comprises a first application of a first composition and a second application of a second composition as described herein contemplates that additional applications of additional compositions according to the disclosure may be included.
It will be understood, however, that the application of treatment compositions and hair care compositions will be considered by those skilled in the art to be within the same hair care routine. The length of the pause time can therefore vary depending on the specific hair care routine. For example, a routine that includes shampooing the hair and optionally conditioning the hair may include a step of applying a treatment composition to the hair within a few minutes of the hair being shampooed and optionally conditioned, e.g. while the hair is still wet or damp, whereas a routine that includes treating hair with a deep conditioning mask or oil may include a step of applying a treatment composition to the hair about 12 hours, about 10 hours, about 8 hours, about 6 hours, etc., after the mask or oil is applied to the hair, such as once the deep-conditioning effects of the mask or oil are achieved.
If a hair care composition is left to process on the hair in connection with the methods and routines described herein, it can be for any period of time that such hair care composition is typically left on the hair during hair care routines, such as a few minutes, up to an hour, a few hours, overnight, etc. Thus, a leave-in period of time for a hair care composition may be from about 1 minute, about 2 minutes, or about 5 minutes up to about 24 hours, such as up to about 12 hours, up to about 10 hours, up to about 8 hours, up to about 6 hours, up to about 4 hours, up to about 3 hours, up to about 2 hours, up to about 1 hour, or up to about 30 minutes. For example, leave-in periods for hair care compositions used in methods and routines according to the disclosure can range from about 1 minute to about 12 hours, from about 1 minute to about 8 hours, from about 1 minute to about 4 hours, from about 1 minute to about 2 hours, from about 1 minute to about 1 hour, from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 12 hours, from about 2 minutes to about 8 hours, from about 2 minutes to about 4 hours, from about 2 minutes to about 2 hours, from about 2 minutes to about 1 hour, from about 2 minutes to about 30 minutes, from about 5 minutes to about 12 hours, from about 5 minutes to about 8 hours, from about 5 minutes to about 4 hours, from about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, from about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, etc.
The methods and routines described herein contemplate applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to hair before, simultaneously with, and/or after a hair care composition is applied to hair. Thus, the methods encompass routines where a treatment composition is applied to the hair, the hair is rinsed, and a hair care composition is subsequently applied to the hair. The methods also encompass routines where a treatment composition is applied to the hair, the hair is not rinsed, and a hair care composition is subsequently applied to the hair. The methods further encompass routines where a hair care composition is applied to the hair, the hair is rinsed, and a treatment composition according to the disclosure is subsequently applied to the hair. The methods likewise encompass routines where a hair care composition is applied to the hair, the hair is not rinsed, and a treatment composition according to the disclosure is subsequently applied to the hair. It should be understood that applying a treatment composition to hair simultaneously with a hair care composition can include any manner of simultaneous application or treatment of the hair with both the treatment composition and hair care composition simultaneously. For example, dually applying a hair care composition and a treatment composition to the hair such as with a device configured to dispense two compositions at once, mixing a hair care composition and a treatment composition prior to applying the mixture to the hair, and applying a treatment composition to hair to which a hair care composition has been applied and not removed, are all intended to be considered simultaneous treatment of the hair.
By way of non-limiting example, methods and routines according to the disclosure may comprise (1 ) applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to hair in order to repair hair that has been previously damaged by a chemical treatment, to maintain or improve the general health and appearance of the hair, to maintain or improve the elasticity of the hair fibers, etc., leaving the treatment composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, optionally heating the hair, and optionally rinsing the hair, and then (2) shampooing the hair using a conventional shampoo composition and/or conditioning the hair using a conventional hair conditioner composition. As another example, (1 ) hair may be shampooed using a conventional shampoo composition, rinsed, optionally conditioned, e.g. by applying a rinse-off conditioner, leaving the conditioner on the hair for a period of about 30 seconds to about 5 minutes, optionally rinsing the hair, and (2) applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair in order to repair hair that has been previously damaged by a chemical treatment, to maintain or improve the general health and appearance of the hair, to maintain or improve the elasticity of the hair fibers, etc., optionally heating the hair, and optionally rinsing the hair. Optionally, a pause time between steps (1 ) and (2) may be observed.
As yet another example, methods and routines according to the disclosure may comprise (1 ) applying a treatment composition to hair, leaving the treatment composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, optionally heating the hair, and optionally rinsing the hair, (2) shampooing the hair using a conventional shampoo composition and/or conditioning the hair using a conventional hair conditioner composition, and (3) applying a treatment composition to hair, leaving the treatment composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, optionally heating the hair, and optionally rinsing the hair. Optionally, a pause time between steps (1 ) and (2) and/or between steps (2) and (3) may be observed. In embodiments where a treatment composition according to the disclosure is applied to the hair more than one time during a hair care routine, the first and second treatment compositions can be the same or different, i.e. the compositions can have the same components and amounts thereof, or can differ in the types of components present and/or amounts thereof.
An exemplary routine may comprise applying a treatment composition to hair that is wet, damp, or dry; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; optionally rinsing the hair; shampooing the hair with a conventional shampoo composition; rinsing the hair; and optionally conditioning the hair with a conventional hair conditioner composition. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition. Another exemplary routine may comprise applying a treatment composition to hair that is wet, damp, or dry; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; optionally rinsing the hair; after a pause time ranging from about 5 minutes to about 3 hours, such as about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, or about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, shampooing the hair with a conventional shampoo composition; rinsing the hair; and optionally conditioning the hair with a conventional hair conditioner composition. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition.
Another exemplary routine may comprise shampooing the hair with a conventional shampoo composition and/or conditioning the hair using a conventional hair conditioner composition; optionally rinsing the hair; applying a treatment composition to the hair; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; and rinsing the hair. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition.
Yet another exemplary routine may comprise shampooing the hair with a conventional shampoo composition and/or conditioning the hair using a conventional hair conditioner composition; rinsing the hair; after a pause time ranging from about 5 minutes to about 3 hours, such as about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, or about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, applying a treatment composition to the hair; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; and rinsing the hair. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition.
Still another exemplary routine may comprise shampooing the hair with a conventional shampoo composition; optionally rinsing the hair; applying a rinse-off or leave-in hair conditioner to the hair; optionally rinsing the hair; applying a treatment composition to the hair; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; and rinsing the hair. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition. Yet another exemplary routine may comprise shampooing the hair with a conventional shampoo composition; rinsing the hair; applying a rinse-off or leave-in hair conditioner to the hair; rinsing the hair; after a pause time ranging from about 5 minutes to about 3 hours, such as about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, or about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, applying a treatment composition to the hair; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; and rinsing the hair. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition.
Another exemplary routine may comprise applying a treatment composition to hair that is wet, damp, or dry; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; optionally rinsing the hair; applying a hair mask or hair treatment oil to the hair; optionally heating the hair; and optionally rinsing the hair after an optional leave-in period of the hair mask or oil, for example about 8 hours. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition. Still another exemplary routine may comprise applying a treatment composition to hair that is wet, damp, or dry; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; optionally rinsing the hair; after a pause time ranging from about 5 minutes to about 3 hours, such as about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, or about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, applying a hair mask or hair treatment oil to the hair; optionally heating the hair; and optionally rinsing the hair after an optional leave-in period of the hair mask or oil, for example about 8 hours. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition.
Yet another exemplary routine may comprise applying a hair mask or hair treatment oil to the hair; optionally heating the hair; optionally rinsing the hair after an optional leave-in period of the hair mask or oil, for example about 8 hours; applying a treatment composition to the hair; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; and rinsing the hair. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition. Yet another exemplary routine may comprise applying a hair mask or hair treatment oil to the hair; optionally heating the hair; optionally rinsing the hair after an optional leave-in period of the hair mask or oil, for example about 8 hours; after a pause time ranging from about 5 minutes to about 3 hours, such as about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, or about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, applying a treatment composition to the hair; leaving the treatment composition on the hair, e.g. for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; optionally heating the hair; and rinsing the hair. This exemplary routine may optionally be followed by another application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure, which may be the same or different than the first treatment composition.
It will thus be apparent that various hair treatment routines according to the disclosure can be implemented in connection with various hair care routines. Those skilled in the art will be able to choose hair care compositions and routines in connection with hair treatment compositions and routines described herein, in order to treat hair.
In exemplary embodiments, a treatment composition according to the disclosure can be applied to hair before, during, and/or after a bleaching, dye and/or hair shaping composition is applied to the hair, with or without intermediate rinsing. For example, one such method may include applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within the same hair reshaping process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a bleaching, dye and/or hair shaping composition to the hair. Another exemplary method may include applying a bleaching, dye and/or shaping composition to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within the same hair lightening, dyeing, and/or shaping process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair. In either of the foregoing exemplary embodiments, the treatment composition and bleaching, dye and/or hair shaping composition may optionally be layered on top of one another on the hair (no rinsing) or may optionally be applied to the hair in alternating layers (rinsing) during the hair bleaching, dyeing and/or shaping process. As yet a further exemplary method, a treatment composition according to the disclosure may be added to or mixed with a composition for lightening, dyeing and/or shaping the hair, e.g. the bleaching composition, the bleaching base composition, and/or the oxidizing composition or an oxidative dye base composition, an oxidizing composition, or a mixture thereof, for example at or near the time of use. In a still further exemplary method, a treatment composition and a bleaching, dye and/or shaping composition may be applied to the hair simultaneously, for example by means of a dual-chamber applicator that is configured to dispense two compositions at the same time. Thus, it is contemplated that treatment compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a hair lightening, dyeing and/or shaping process, thereby reducing, minimizing, or preventing damage to the hair that would otherwise be expected to result from such harsh chemical treatments.
As a non-limiting example of methods according to the disclosure, a treatment composition as described herein may be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair, left to process for a leave-in time as described herein, for example ranging from about one minute to about two hours such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heating. The hair may then be rinsed, followed by application of a hair bleaching, dyeing and/or shaping composition according to conventional hair bleaching, dyeing, and/or shaping routines. As a further non-limiting example of methods according to the disclosure, a treatment composition as described herein may be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair, left to process for a leave-in time as described herein, for example ranging from about one minute to about two hours such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heating. Without rinsing the treatment composition from the hair, a hair bleaching, dyeing and/or shaping composition may be applied to the hair, and the hair bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping process followed according to conventional hair bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping routines.
As another non-limiting example of methods according to the disclosure, a bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or hair shaping composition may be applied to the hair. The hair may then be rinsed, followed by application of a treatment composition as described herein to wet, damp, or dry hair, which may be left to process for a leavein time as described herein, for example ranging from about one minute to about two hours such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heating. The hair may then be subsequently rinsed. As yet another non-limiting example of methods according to the disclosure, a hair bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping composition may be applied to the hair according to conventional hair bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping routines, and without rinsing the bleaching, dyeing, caring, and/or shaping composition from the hair, a treatment composition as described herein may be applied, left to process for a leave-in time as described herein, for example ranging from about one minute to about two hours such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heating. The hair may then be subsequently rinsed. Yet another exemplary method may include applying a bleaching composition to the hair, rinsing the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within the same hair lightening process), applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair, where the treatment composition comprises one or more direct dyes. A still further exemplary method may include applying a bleaching composition to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within the same hair lightening process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair, where the bleaching composition comprises one or more direct dyes.
Surprisingly, hair that has been treated with treatment compositions and methods according to the disclosure before, during, and/or after the hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing processes has less damage than hair subjected to such hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing processes but not treated with treatment compositions and methods according to the disclosure before, during, and/or after the processes. The hair may have lower elasticity and/or greater tensile strength than hair similarly permanently reshaped, lightened, dyed, cared for, and/or relaxed but not treated according to the disclosure. Thus, additional methods according to the disclosure include methods for reducing or minimizing hair damage in a process for hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing, methods for preventing hair damage from a process for hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing, and methods for improving elasticity and/or tensile strength of hair in a process for hair shaping, hair lightening or bleaching, hair dyeing, hair caring, and/or hair relaxing.
Having described the many embodiments of the present disclosure in detail, it will be apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be appreciated that all examples in the present disclosure, while illustrating many embodiments of the disclosure, are provided as non-limiting examples and are, therefore, not to be taken as limiting the various aspects so illustrated. It is to be understood that all definitions herein are provided for the present disclosure only.
In this application, “bleaching” hair and “lightening” hair are used interchangeably to refer to compositions and processes for lightening the color of the hair with typical hair bleaching compositions comprising oxidizing and/or alkalizing compounds.
As used herein, treating hair with a treatment composition or applying a treatment composition to hair that is “in connection with a process for lightening/dyeing/shaping hair,” “within the same hair lightening/dyeing/shaping process,” and variations thereof, are intended to convey that the treatment composition is applied to the hair within close proximity of time as the hair is subjected to a process for lightening/dyeing/shaping the hair, such that a person of skill in the art would consider the processes of treating hair with a treatment composition as described herein and lightening/dyeing/shaping the hair to be a single process. For example, the treatment composition may be applied to the hair less than 24 hours, such as less than 12 hours, less than 6 hours, less than 4 hours, less than 3 hours, less than 2 hours, less than 1 hour, less than 45 minutes, less than 30 minutes, or less than 15 minutes before and/or after a hair lightening/dye/shaping composition is applied to the hair.
In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural unless specifically stated otherwise. The singular forms “a,” “an,” “the,” and “at least one” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations. Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, or a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
The term “and/or” should be understood to include both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, “amino acids and/or salts thereof” means “amino acids and salts thereof” as well as “amino acids or salts thereof,” and expressly covers instances of either.
As used herein, the term “salts” referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is non-limiting. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, e.g. in an aqueous solution.
As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and mixtures of two or more thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” and combinations of two or more thereof,” “and a combination of two or more thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” “or combinations of two or more thereof,” “or a combination thereof,” and the like are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.
For purposes of the present disclosure, it should be noted that to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term “about.” It is understood that whether the term “about” is used explicitly or not, every quantity given herein is meant to refer to the actual given value, and it is also meant to refer to the approximation to such given value that would reasonably be inferred based on the ordinary skill in the art, including approximations due to the experimental and/or measurement conditions for such given value, unless otherwise stated.
All ranges and amounts given herein are intended to include sub-ranges and amounts using any disclosed point as an end point, and all endpoints are intended to be included unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, a range of “1 % to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%,” is intended to encompass ranges of “1 % to 8%,” “1 % to 5%,” “2% to 10%,” and so on. All numbers, amounts, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term “about,” whether or not expressly stated, unless expressly stated otherwise. Similarly, a range given of “about 1 % to 10%” is intended to have the term “about” modifying both the 1 % and the 10% endpoints. The term “about” is used herein to indicate a difference of up to +/- 10% from the stated number, such as +/- 9%, +/- 8%, +/- 7%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, or +/- 1 %. Unless expressly stated otherwise, “about” means +/- 5%. Likewise, all endpoints of ranges are understood to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range of 1 :2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1 :2 and 2:1 .
As used herein, if a component is described as being present “in an amount up to” a certain amount, it is intended that such component is, in fact, present in the composition, i.e. is present in an amount greater than 0%.
All amounts given herein are relative to the amount of active material, unless otherwise indicated. All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
In this application, the terms “keratin fibers” and “hair” are used interchangeably, without intending to be limiting. A person skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibers include hair, such as hair that grows from the scalp.
As used herein, the phrase “applying a composition onto hair” and variations thereof are intended to mean contacting the hair with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner. It may also mean contacting the hair in an effective amount.
The term “treating hair” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of hair. The term “treating hair” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
The term “hair care” or “caring” for hair as used herein refers to compositions and methods of caring for the overall hygiene and health of the hair, such as shampooing and/or conditioning the hair. “Conditioning” refers to compositions and methods that improve the feel, smoothness, ease of detangling, etc. of hair, typically by coating the hair with conditioning agents. Hair care is not intended to include styling the hair or chemically treating the hair such as with a hair dye composition, permanent waving composition, straightening composition, etc.
The terms “shaping hair,” “reshaping hair,” and the like, which may be used interchangeably herein, refer to processes that involve chemical reshaping of hair that is considered by those skilled in the art to be permanent. “Permanent” hair shaping means that the shape of the hair fiber achieved by the process lasts through multiple styling and washing routines, for example at least 2, at least 5, or at least 10 washing routines. However, the terms “shaping hair” and “reshaping hair” are not intended to refer to processes that those skilled in the art consider temporary, such as straightening the hair with a straightening iron in the absence of reducing or alkaline agents, curling the hair with a curling iron in the absence of reducing alkaline agents, or the like.
Unless otherwise specified, the terms “hair shaping composition,” “hair reshaping composition,” “permanent hair shaping composition,” and the like, as used herein refer to a composition comprising a chemical agent that, when used in a process for shaping hair, provides a shape to the hair that lasts through at least 2 washing routines.
Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1 .5%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.01 %, less than about 0.001 %, or less than about 0.0001 % of the specified material. As such, it is contemplated that any component described herein for use in the hair treatment compositions can be present in the compositions in amounts less than about 5%, less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.01 %, less than about 0.001 %, or less than about 0.0001 %, and the composition will be considered “substantially free” of such material. A composition that is “free” of a component is understood to contain none of the specified component. However, it is understood that the terms “free” and “substantially free” refer to the amount of a component added to the composition, without including an amount of the component present in the composition as a minor component in a raw material. For example, a composition that is “free” of waxes may not have wax included as an intended component but may nevertheless contain a pigment that is coated with a wax, as such wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and would not be expected to provide benefits to the composition that would be expected by including a wax per se as an intended component.
As used herein, the phrase “wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently” or the like means that the component or parameter that follows is satisfied by either or both of the first and second compositions, but that the component or parameter is not necessarily the same. Thus, for example, “wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise a surfactant” should be understood to indicate that either the first composition or the second composition has a surfactant, or both the first and second compositions have a surfactant but in that case the surfactant in the first composition may be the same or different than the surfactant in the second composition. Unless otherwise expressly stated, it is in no way intended that any method set forth herein be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a method claim does not expressly recite an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it not intended that any particular order be inferred.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure without, however, being limiting in nature. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made in the compositions and methods of the invention without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, it is intended that the present disclosure covers the modifications and variations that come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.
EXAMPLES
The following Examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, amounts are expressed in percentage by weight (wt%) of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
Example 1 - Treatment Compositions
Compositions 1A-1 G, which can be used in methods according to the disclosure, were prepared as shown in Table 1. The pH of each of compositions 1A- 1 G was about 3.5.
TABLE 1
Figure imgf000076_0001
The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric and/or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine and/or serine).
Compositions 1A to 1 G, can be used in methods according to the disclosure, for example can be applied to hair before and/or after a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition is applied to the hair, can be mixed with a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, or can be applied to the hair simultaneously with a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, and are expected to minimize, prevent, and/or repair damage to hair that would otherwise be expected from a hair dyeing and/or shaping process. The compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers when used in methods according to the disclosure.
Example 2 - Evaluation of Damage Repair
In order to evaluate the ability of compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair, the following studies were conducted.
Example 2.1 - Ultra Bleached Hair
Eight swatches (S1 -S8) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and then seven of the swatches (S1 -S7) were subjected to the following treatment routines (swatch S8 did not have any treatment after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).
Swatch S1 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.
Swatches S2-S7 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, one of compositions 1 A-1 F (Table 2) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.
TABLE 2
Figure imgf000078_0001
The integrity of the hair fibers of each of swatches S1 -S8 was studied after the first and fifth days. Elasticity was evaluated to determine whether the hair fibers stretched, and if so, whether they returned to their original state (lower elasticity, i.e. healthy), whether the fibers stretched easily and remained stretched (higher elasticity, i.e. damaged), or whether the hair fibers broke upon testing.
The evaluation was performed by stretching a standardized amount of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each swatch. The experts were trained to stretch the area of the swatch being evaluated by uniformly applying manual pulling force using the hands/fingers. The behaviour of the swatch was classified by each expert according to a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each swatch as the average of the two:
0 = Natural, healthy hair (no damage);
1 = Low elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers present slight elasticity, returning to the initial state after the test);
2 = Moderate elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers present elasticity, returning to the initial state after the test);
3 = High elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers present elasticity and some of the hair fibers do not return to the initial state after the test);
4 = Very high elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers present elasticity and most of the hair fibers do not return to the initial state after the test); and
5 = Immediate break (when stretched, hair fibers present high elasticity and break during the test).
The results showed that the hair fibers of swatches S2-S7, treated with one of compositions 1 A-1 F, surprisingly had lower elasticity than the fibers of swatches S1 or S8 after both day 1 (FIG. 1A) and day 5 (FIG. 1 B). In other words, the hair of swatches S1 and S8 was damaged by the harsh bleaching process, leading to increased elasticity, whereas the damage to swatches S2-S7 had been repaired by treatment with one of compositions 1 A-1 F.
Example 2.2 - Straightened and Ultra Bleached Hair
Eight swatches (S9-S16) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and then seven of the swatches (S9-S15) were subjected to the following treatment routines.
Swatch S9 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair. The treatment was repeated a second time. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.
Swatches S10-S15 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, one of compositions 1A-1 F (Table 3) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.
TABLE 3
Figure imgf000080_0001
The integrity of the hair fibers of each of swatches S9-S16 was studied in the same manner as described in Example 2.1. The results showed that the hair fibers of swatches S10-S15, treated with one of compositions 1A-1 F, surprisingly had lower elasticity than the fibers of swatches S9 and S16 after both day 1 (FIG. 2A) and day 5 (FIG. 2B).
Examples 2.1 to 2.2 therefore demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical processes, for example a bleaching process, with a composition according to the disclosure surprisingly repairs the damage, leaving hair less elastic and healthier than without treatment. It is expected that the methods and routines described herein, i.e. comprising at least one subsequent application of a composition according to the disclosure within about 12 hours or less, preferably within about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, will repair damaged hair and improve elasticity to an even greater extent than seen in Examples 2.1 to 2.2.
Example 3 - Treatment Compositions Compositions 2A-2E, which can be used in methods according to the disclosure, were prepared as shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4
Figure imgf000080_0002
Figure imgf000081_0001
The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine).
Compositions 2A-2E, can be used in methods according to the disclosure, for example can be applied to hair before and/or after a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition is applied to the hair, can be mixed with a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, or can be applied to the hair simultaneously with a dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, and are expected to minimize, prevent, and/or repair damage to hair that would otherwise be expected from a hair dyeing and/or shaping process. The compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers when used in methods according to the disclosure.
Example 4 - Evaluation of Damage Repair
In order to evaluate the ability of compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair in connection with bleaching processes, for examples, the following studies were conducted.
A comparative product, C1 , had the following listing of ingredients on the package: Water (Aqua/Eau), Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium- 91 , Sodium Benzoate, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Fragrance (Parfum), Tetrasodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-37, Benzyl Benzoate, Etidronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Phytantriol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate. Composition C1 , which is described as a “pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends for visibly healthier hair,” is advertised as part of a system that asserts it can “relink broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical services, heat, and styling.” The instructions for composition C1 are to use the product prior to using the shampoo (“C1-S”) and conditioner (“C1 -C”) that form part of this system, both of which include bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate as the stated active agent.
Example 4.1 - Ultra Bleached Hair: Elasticity and Strength
Five swatches (S17-S21 ) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and then four of the swatches (S17-S20) were subjected to the following treatment routines (swatch S21 did not have any treatment after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).
Swatch S17 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
Swatches S18 and S19 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, one of compositions 2D (S18) or 2B (S19) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
Swatch S20 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the swatch and distributing it to ensure the hair was fully coated. Composition C1 was allowed to remain on the hair for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, the swatch was cleansed with shampoo C1 -S by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, conditioner C1 -C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
Once all five treatments of swatches S17-S20 were completed, the integrity of the hair fibers of each of swatches S17-S21 was studied in the same manner as described in Example 2.1. The results showed that the hair fibers of swatches S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, had lower elasticity than the fibers of swatches S17 and S20-S21 (FIG. 3).
Next, the strength was evaluated using a fiber tensile testing instrument from Dia-Stron known as an MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed that the hair of swatches S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, was surprisingly stronger than the hair of swatches S17 or S20, meaning that more force was required to break the individual hair fibers of swatches S18-S19. FIG. 4A shows the break stress (MPa) for a control swatch (CTL), which was the same hair but unbleached, swatch S17, which was bleached but without subsequent treatment, and swatches S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and S20, treated with the comparative compositions. As FIG. 4A shows, the break stress of the control swatch (CTL) was more than twice that of swatch S17, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with either composition 2D (swatch S18), 2B (swatch S19), or the comparative compositions (S20), the break stress of the treated swatches was increased compared to swatch S17. Surprisingly, the increase in break stress for swatches S18-S19 was considered to be statistically significant compared to that of swatch S20, meaning that compositions 2D and 2B repaired the hair to a greater degree than the comparative compositions.
Example 4.2 - Straightened and Ultra Bleached Hair: Elasticity
Four swatches (S22-S25) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and for a treatment period of five weeks, all four swatches were subjected to the following routine twice a week.
First, the swatches were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
Three of the swatches (S22-S24) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines one time each week for the 5-week period.
Swatch S22 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. A mask composition was applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
Swatch S23 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, composition 2C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
Swatch S24 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the swatch and distributing it to ensure the hair was fully coated. Composition C1 was allowed to remain on the hair for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, the swatch was cleansed with shampoo C1 -S by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, conditioner C1 -C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity and strength of the hair fibers of each of swatches S22-S25 were studied in the same manner as described in Example 2.1. The results showed that the hair fibers of swatch S23, treated with composition 2C after the hair was shampooed and before it was conditioned, had lower elasticity than the fibers of any of swatches S22 or S24-S25. Similarly, the results of the MTT test showed that the hair of swatch S23, treated with composition 2C after the hair was shampooed and before it was conditioned was stronger than the hair of any of swatches S22 or S24-S25.
Example 4.3 - Straightened and Ultra Bleached Hair: Strength
Four swatches (S26-S29) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and for a treatment period of five weeks, all four swatches were subjected to the following routine.
First, the swatches were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
Three of the swatches (S27-S29) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines one time each week for the 5-week period. Swatches S27 and S28 were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. One of either composition 2B (S28) or 2D (S27) was applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
Swatch S29 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the swatch and distributing it to ensure the hair was fully coated. Composition C1 was allowed to remain on the hair for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, the swatch was cleansed with shampoo C1 -S by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, conditioner C1 -C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
MTT testing was performed in the same manner as described in Example 4.1. The results showed that the hair of swatches S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, was surprisingly stronger than the hair of swatches S26 or S29, meaning that more force was required to break the individual hair fibers of swatches S27-S28. FIG. 4B shows the break stress (MPa) for a control swatch (CTL), which was the same hair but unbleached, swatch S26, which was bleached but without subsequent treatment, swatches S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and S29, treated with the comparative compositions. As FIG. 4B shows, the break stress of the control swatch (CTL) was approximately three times that of swatch S26, showing the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with either composition 2B (swatch S28), 2D (swatch S27), the break stress of the treated swatches was increased compared to swatch S26, and the improvement was considered to be statistically significant. FIG. 4B shows, however, that the break stress of the swatch treated with the comparative composition (S29) had no improvement in break stress.
Examples 4.1 to 4.3 thus demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical processes, such as in a bleaching process, with a composition according to the disclosure surprisingly repairs the damage. The damage repair was also surprisingly greater than that achieved with a commercial product that asserts to do the same. It is expected that the methods and routines described herein, i.e. comprising at least one subsequent application of a composition according to the disclosure within about 12 hours or less, preferably within about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, will repair damaged hair and improve elasticity to an even greater extent than seen in Examples 4.1 to 4.3.
Example 5 - Treatment Compositions
Compositions 3A-3F, which can be used in methods according to the disclosure, were prepared as shown in Table 5. TABLE S
Figure imgf000087_0001
Compositions 3A-3F, which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine)), can be used in methods according to the disclosure, for example can be applied to hair before and/or after a bleaching, dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition is applied to the hair, can be mixed with a bleaching, dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, or can be applied to the hair simultaneously with a bleaching, dyeing and/or permanent shaping composition, and are expected to minimize, prevent, and/or repair damage to hair that would otherwise be expected from a hair bleaching, dyeing and/or shaping process. The compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers when used according to the methods described herein.
Example 6 - Evaluation of Damage Repair
In order to evaluate the ability of methods of treating hair according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent, or repair damage, the following studies were conducted.
The hair of forty-two (42) volunteers (integrity rated 0-3 when evaluated in the manner described in Example 2.1 ) was bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at room temperature for about 45 minutes. The hair was rinsed and immediately subjected to one of the two following treatment protocols.
Protocol 1 (according to the disclosure) (n = 24) (P1 ): The hair was coated with composition 3B and left on the hair for five minutes. The hair was then shampooed, the shampoo left on the hair for one minute, and the shampoo was then rinsed from the hair. The hair was then coated with composition 3E, left on the hair for five minutes, and rinsed. Finally, the hair was coated with composition 3F, which was left on the hair as a leave-in treatment, to be removed when the subject next washed their hair.
Protocol 2 (comparative) (n = 24) (P2): The hair was coated with composition C1 and left on the hair for ten minutes, then rinsed. The hair was then shampooed with composition C1 -S, the shampoo left on the hair for one minute, and the shampoo was then rinsed from the hair. Finally, the hair was coated with composition C1 -C, left on the hair for three minutes, and rinsed.
The same protocol was repeated for each volunteer every 2 days four additional times, for a total of five treatments per subject. The hair was evaluated in the manner described in Example 2.1 after it was bleached (TO) and after each treatment (T1 -T5).
FIG. 6 shows the averaged results for P1 and P2 at each of T0-T5. As can be seen, although the hair treated according to both protocols show decreased elasticity as soon as the first treatment (T1 ), the hair treated according to P1 showed even greater improvement after each treatment than the hair treated according to P2, which difference was considered to be statistically significant.
Example 7 - Additional Compositions
The following compositions which can be used in methods and routines according to the disclosure can be prepared, and are expected to similarly minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair when used as described herein. The compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers.
TABLE 6
Figure imgf000089_0001
The above examples demonstrate that methods according to the disclosure, which include treating hair with treatment compositions as described herein before, during, and/or after bleaching hair, surprisingly and unexpectedly reduces, minimizes, and/or prevents damage to the hair that would otherwise be expected from bleaching compositions and processes, and provide the hair with decreased elasticity benefits.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS
1 . Method of treating keratin fibers comprising:
(i) applying to the keratin fibers a first composition comprising:
(a) at least one compound chosen from amino acids or salts thereof;
(b) at least one osmolyte;
(c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids or salts thereof; and
(d) at least one solvent;
(ii) optionally leaving the first composition on the keratin fibers for a leave-in period ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes;
(iii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; and
(iv) applying to the keratin fibers a second composition, wherein the first composition and the second composition are the same or different; and wherein step (i) occurs before, simultaneously with, and/or after step (iv).
2. Method, according to claim 1 , wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a composition comprising (a) at least one compound chosen from amino acids or salts thereof; (b) at least one osmolyte; (c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids or salts thereof; and (d) at least one solvent.
3. Method, according to claim 1 , wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a permanent hair shaping composition.
4. Method, according to claim 1 , wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a hair care composition.
5. Method, according to claim 1 , wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a bleaching composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
6. Method, according to claim 1 , wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a hair dye composition comprising at least one oxidative dye compound.
7. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (a) at least one amino acid chosen from compounds of formula (I) or salts thereof:
COOH
H . C .
Figure imgf000092_0001
R
(I) wherein: p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; or when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (- NH2), -SH, -COOH,
-CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
8. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (a) at least one amino acid chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
9. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, betaines, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising at least one betaine chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:
(R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-
(H) wherein:
R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups;
A is N or S; m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;
X is a divalent C1 -C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
Y’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: o when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; o when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (Ci-Cs)alkyl, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; and o when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
10. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one betaine.
11 . Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, preferably from C3-C6 monosaccharides, more preferably from pentoses, hexoses, derivatives thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
12. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 11 , wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one osmolyte chosen from polyamines, preferably chosen from diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, or combinations of two or more thereof.
13. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one osmolyte chosen from compounds of formula (II), preferably chosen from zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
14. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one osmolyte chosen from compounds of formula (II), chosen from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N- methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising glycine betaine.
15. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one compound of formula (II), wherein:
R1 and R2 are methyl;
A is N; and/or
Y is COO-.
16. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (c) at least one carboxylic acid chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
17. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof in the first composition, the second composition, or both independently ranges from about 2% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 3.5% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the total amount of osmolytes in the first composition, the second composition, or both independently ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1 % to about 8%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 5%, and most preferably from about
1 .5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof in the first composition, the second composition, or both independently ranges from about 3% to about 15%, preferably from about 3% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
20. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the pH of the first composition, the second composition, or both independently ranges from about 2 to about 6, preferably from about 2.5 to about 5, more preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.5, and most preferably from about 3 to about 4.
21 . Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 20, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more thereof.
22. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 21 , wherein the first composition comprises:
(a) at least basic amino acid or salt thereof;
(b) at least one compound of formula (II) or a salt thereof; and
(c) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof.
23. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 22, wherein the first composition comprises:
(a) at least one compound chosen from arginine or salts thereof;
(b) glycine betaine or a salt thereof; and
(c) at least one compound chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, or salts thereof.
24. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise:
(a) at least one compound chosen from basic amino acids or salts thereof;
(b) at least one compound chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof;
(c) at least one compound chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, or salts thereof; and (d) water.
25. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 24, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise:
(a) at least one compound chosen from arginine or salts thereof;
(b) glycine betaine or a salt thereof;
(c) at least one compound chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, or salts thereof;
(d) water and optionally at least one polyol; and
(e) optionally at least one compound chosen from serine or salts thereof.
26. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein the hair dye composition comprises at least one oxidation base chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols and heterocyclic bases, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
27. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 26, wherein the hair dye composition comprises at least one coupler compound.
28. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein the first composition and/or the bleaching composition comprises at least one direct dye.
29. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein the permanent hair shaping composition comprises at least one reducing agent and/or at least one alkaline agent.
30. The method of any one of claims 1 to 25 or 29, wherein the permanent hair shaping composition comprises at least one reducing agent chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
31 . Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein the hair care composition is a shampoo composition, a rinse-out hair conditioner composition, a hair mask composition, or a hair treatment oil.
32. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 25 or 31 , wherein step (iv) occurs less than about 4 hours, preferably from about 5 minutes to about 3 hours, more preferably from about 2 minutes to about 3 hours, more preferably from about 15 minutes to about 2 hours, more preferably from about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, and most preferably from about 30 minutes to about 1 .5 hours before and/or after step (i).
33. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 30, wherein step (i) occurs before step (iv), and the hair is optionally rinsed after step (i) and before step (iv).
34. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 30, wherein step (iv) occurs before step (i), and the hair is optionally rinsed after step (iv) and before step
(i).
35. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 25 or 31 to 32, comprising steps (i)-(iv) in order:
(i) applying the first composition to the keratin fibers;
(ii) leaving the first composition on the keratin fibers for a leave-in period ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes;
(iii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; and
(iv) applying the second composition to the keratin fibers less than about 4 hours, preferably from about 2 minutes to about 3 hours, more preferably from about 5 minutes to about 2 hours after step (i).
36. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 25, 31 to 32 or 35, comprising steps (i)-(iii) in order:
(i) applying the hair care composition to the hair;
(ii) optionally rinsing the hair; and
(iii) applying the first composition to the hair.
37. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 25, 31 to 32 or 35 to 36, wherein the first composition is left on the keratin fibers for a leave-in period ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, and subsequently rinsed before step (iv).
38. Method for treating keratin fibers comprising:
(i) applying to the keratin fibers a first composition comprising:
(a) at least one compound chosen from basic amino acids or salts thereof;
(b) at least one osmolyte;
(c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids or salts thereof; and
(d) water and optionally at least one polyol;
(ii) optionally leaving the first composition on the keratin fibers for a leave-in period ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes;
(iii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; and
(iv) applying to the keratin fibers a second composition, wherein the first composition and the second composition are the same or different, wherein step (iv) occurs from 2 minutes to 3 hours after step (i), wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to 5.5; and wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise at least one osmolyte (b) chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:
(R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-
(H) wherein:
R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups;
A is N or S; m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;
X is a divalent C1-C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
Y’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: o when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, - NH-, or -C(NH)-, and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; o when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (Ci-Cs)alkyl, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; and o when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
39. Method, according to claim 38, wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is selected from a composition comprising (a) at least one compound chosen from basic amino acids or salts thereof; (b) at least one osmolyte; (c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids or salts thereof; and (d) water and optionally at least one polyol.
40. Method, according to claim 38, wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a permanent hair shaping composition.
41. Method, according to claim 38, wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a hair care composition.
42. Method, according to claim 38, wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a bleaching composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
43. Method, according to claim 38, wherein when the second composition is different from the first composition, the second composition is a hair dye composition comprising at least one oxidative dye compound.
44. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 43, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one compound of formula (II) wherein:
R1 , R2, and R3 are methyl;
A is N;
Y is COO-;
X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by methylene or ethylene;
R4 is hydrogen; and
R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by one hydroxy group.
45. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 44, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (c) at least one carboxylic acid chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
46. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 45, wherein the compounds of formula (II) are chosen from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising glycine betaine.
47. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 46, wherein the total amount of osmolytes present in the first composition ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1 % to about 8%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 5%, most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
48. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 47, wherein the first composition comprises at least one amino acid chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising arginine.
49. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 48, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently further comprise at least one compound chosen from serine or salts thereof.
50. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 49, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently further comprise at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more thereof.
51 . Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 50, wherein step (iv) occurs from about 1 minute to about 8 hours, preferably from about 2 minutes to about 4 hours or from about 15 minutes to about 2 hours, preferably from about 30 minutes to about 1 .5 hours before and/or after step (i).
52. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 50, wherein step (i) occurs before step (iv), and the hair is optionally rinsed after step (i) and before step (iv).
53. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 50, wherein step (iv) occurs before step (i), and the hair is optionally rinsed after step (iv) and before step
(i).
54. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 51 , comprising steps
(i)-(iv) in order:
(i) applying the first composition to the keratin fibers;
(ii) leaving the first composition on the keratin fibers for a leave-in period ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes;
(iii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; and
(iv) applying the second composition to the keratin fibers about 2 minutes to about 3 hours, preferably from about 5 minutes to about 2 hours after step (i).
55. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 50, 51 or 54, comprising steps (i)-(iii) in order:
(i) applying the hair care composition to the hair;
(ii) optionally rinsing the hair; and
(iii) applying the treatment composition to the hair.
56. Method, according to any one of claims 38 to 54, wherein the first composition is left on the keratin fibers for a leave-in period ranging from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, and rinsed before step (iv).
57. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 56, which is a method of reducing or preventing hair damage or breakage, protecting hair from damage, restoring hair fiber moisture equilibrium, providing hair fiber strength, and/or improving hair fiber elasticity.
PCT/BR2024/050482 2023-12-20 2024-10-22 Methods for treating keratin fibers with osmolytes, carboxylic acids and amino acids Pending WO2025129303A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (10)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/BR2023/050479 WO2025129290A1 (en) 2023-12-20 2023-12-20 Methods for treating keratin fibers in a dyeing process
BRPCT/BR2023/050480 2023-12-20
PCT/BR2023/050478 WO2025129289A1 (en) 2023-12-20 2023-12-20 Methods for treating keratin fibers in a lightening process
BRPCT/BR2023/050478 2023-12-20
PCT/BR2023/050480 WO2025129291A1 (en) 2023-12-20 2023-12-20 Methods for treating keratin fibers with osmolytes, carboxylic acid and amino acids
BRPCT/BR2023/050472 2023-12-20
BRPCT/BR2023/050476 2023-12-20
PCT/BR2023/050472 WO2025129283A1 (en) 2023-12-20 2023-12-20 Methods for treating keratin fibers
PCT/BR2023/050476 WO2025129287A1 (en) 2023-12-20 2023-12-20 Methods for treating keratin fibers
BRPCT/BR2023/050479 2023-12-20

Publications (1)

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WO2025129303A1 true WO2025129303A1 (en) 2025-06-26

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