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WO2025114898A1 - Cosmetic compositions, including sunscreen compositions, and related methods - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions, including sunscreen compositions, and related methods Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2025114898A1
WO2025114898A1 PCT/IB2024/061882 IB2024061882W WO2025114898A1 WO 2025114898 A1 WO2025114898 A1 WO 2025114898A1 IB 2024061882 W IB2024061882 W IB 2024061882W WO 2025114898 A1 WO2025114898 A1 WO 2025114898A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
mass
composition
oil
cosmetic composition
amount
Prior art date
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PCT/IB2024/061882
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French (fr)
Inventor
Hideo Hata
Hongjie Liu
Vivek Patel
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Publication of WO2025114898A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025114898A1/en
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Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85Polyesters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin

Definitions

  • the present disclosure relates in general to cosmetic compositions, their uses and methods of making and more specifically, to cosmetic composition, which may have sun screening properties, uses of such compositions as well as their methods of making.
  • a cosmetic composition comprises (a) at least one oil; (b) a hectorite thickener; (c) a cellulose; and (d) one or more ultraviolet scattering powders selected from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof, wherein at least some particles of said one or more ultraviolet scattering powders are treated with poly[Cs-C2o hydroxy carboxylic acid], an amount of the at least one oil in the composition is no more than 50 mass %, and an amount of water in the composition is no more than 30 mass %.
  • FIG. 1 A-B shows photographs of an exemplary cosmetic composition before (A) and after (B) shaking.
  • FIG. 2 is a Table which provides ingredients for a number for cosmetic compositions.
  • FIG. 3 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples.
  • FIG. 4 is a plot showing bulk viscosity versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples.
  • FIG. 5 is a plot showing in vitro absorbance (sun protection factor (SPF)) measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples.
  • SPF standard protection factor
  • FIG. 6 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVA protection factor (PF) rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer for a number of samples.
  • FIG. 7 is a plot showing UVA protection factor (PF) Rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer) versus in-vitro UVB Absorbance measured by Hitachi Spectrophotometer.
  • PF UVA protection factor
  • FIG. 8 is a plot showing UVA PF Rating versus In vitro SPF measured Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer.
  • FIG. 9A-B presents various sunscreen compositions and results of their tests.
  • the data in Figure 9A-B shows the prototype sunscreen formulas composed of different ZnO raw materials with supporting data of initial viscosity, in-vitro UVB Absorbance vs. other products on market.
  • the term “about” placed before a specific numeric value may mean ⁇ 20% of the numeric value; ⁇ 18% of the numeric value, ⁇ 15% of the numeric value; ⁇ 12% of the numeric value; ⁇ 8% of the numeric value; ⁇ 5% of the numeric value; ⁇ 3% of the numeric value; ⁇ 2% of the numeric value; ⁇ 1% of the numeric value or ⁇ 0.5% of the numeric value.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • mineral sunscreen products such as broad-spectrum sun protection; safety; less skin irritation or allergic reactions produced by the mineral sunscreen products compared to the organic sunscreen products; environmentally friendliness and photo-stability.
  • the challenge with mineral sunscreen products may be that when loaded with a high level of mineral sun blocking particles, mineral sunscreen product often leaves white cast on the skin, can be difficult to spread out evenly on skin and leaves greasy and/or sticky feeling.
  • an oil-based cosmetic composition without water, or with a low level of water, such as no more than 30%, could load a high level of mineral sun blocking particles, such as ZnO and/or TiCh particles, and therefore, provide a high level of sun protection, while being easy to spread, having no greasy feeling and not leaving a noticeable white cast on skin when applied.
  • a high level of mineral sun blocking particles such as ZnO and/or TiCh particles
  • the cosmetic composition may include (a) at least one oil; (b) a hectorite thickener; (c) a cellulose; and (d) one or more ultraviolet scattering powders selected from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof. At least some particles of the one or more ultraviolet scattering powders may be treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid].
  • An amount of at least one oil in the composition may be no more than 50 mass %.
  • the amount of water in the composition may be no more than 30 mass %.
  • the cosmetic composition may be used in a sun protective, i.e., sunscreen, cosmetic product.
  • the sun protective cosmetic product may have a sun protection factor (SPF).
  • SPF sun protection factor
  • An SPF on sunscreen products stands for sun protection factor, a relative measurement for the amount of time the sunscreen will provide protection from ultraviolet (UV) rays.
  • UVB rays primarily affect the outer layer of the skin, the epidermis. They are responsible for sunburns and some surface-level skin cancers.
  • the sun also emits UVA rays, which can penetrate the lower level of the skin, called the dermis. UVA rays are typically associated with “tanning.”
  • SPF numbers refer only to UVB rays, but sunscreens can protect against UVA as well. If a sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB radiation, it is labelled as “broad spectrum” sunscreen.
  • viscosity usually refers to low shear viscosity, such as a viscosity at 10 s' 1 or lower share rate, or zero shear viscosity.
  • the low viscosity may allow for easy and fast spreading when the composition is applied to a keratinous surface, such as skin or lips.
  • the cosmetic composition may have a pleasant texture and overall sensory attributes.
  • the cosmetic composition may have a pink to off-pink lotion-like appearance and texture
  • the cosmetic composition may be easily spread on skin with smooth, lightweight sensory and quick dry after-feel.
  • the cosmetic composition may leave skin natural radiant and glowing appearance after application without noticeable white cast and greasy sensory.
  • the cosmetic composition may provide only low or whiteness when applied to a keratinous surface, such as skin or lips.
  • the cosmetic composition may be transparent when applied to a keratinous surface, such as skin or lips.
  • the cosmetic composition may be used alone.
  • the composition may be applied alone, without another composition, to a keratinous surface or substrate, such as skin, of a subject, such as a human.
  • the cosmetic composition may be used together with another composition, which may be, for example, a cosmetic or skincare composition, such as a makeup composition or another skin care product.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to the keratinous surface before or after another composition is applied.
  • the cosmetic composition may be an anhydrous composition containing no water at all.
  • the cosmetic composition may contain water in the amount of from 0.0001% to 30% or 0.0001% to 10 % or 0.1% to 30%, from 0.1% to 25%, from 0.1 % to 20%, or from 0.1% to 15%, from 0.1% to 10%, from 0.1% to 5%, from 0.1 to 4.5 %, from 0.3% to 5%; from 0.5% to 5%, from 1% to 5%, from 2% to 5%, from 3% to 5% or from 4% to 5% or any value or subrange within those ranges.
  • the at least one oil may include at least one polar oil, at least one non-polar oil or a combination of at least polar oil and at least one non-polar oil.
  • the amount of at least one oil in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, an amount of the at least one oil in the composition may be up to 60%, such as from 15 mass % to 60 mass % or 15 mass % to 50 mass % or from 30 mass 5 to 50 mass % or from 15 mass % to 40 mass % or from 18 mass % to 35 mass % or from 20 mass % to 30 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • polar oil means any lipophilic (hydrophobic) compound having at 25°C, a solubility parameter 5a characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter 5 P characteristic of polar interactions of strictly greater than 0.
  • the solubility parameters 5a and 8 P are defined according to the Hansen classification. For example, these polar oils may be chosen from esters, triglycerides and ethers. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
  • the parameters 8 P , 5h, 5p and 5 a are expressed in (J/cm 3) 1/2
  • the polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro oil.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.
  • fluoro oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • the polar oil may have a surface tension of greater than 10 mN/m at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
  • the surface activity is measured by static tensiometry using the Du Nouy ring.
  • the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil.
  • the non-volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from Cl 8 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g/mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil,
  • fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms for instance octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
  • - C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • the polar oil is chosen from C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, butyloctyl salicylate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate.
  • the polar oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
  • the polar oil may be ethylhexyl olivate.
  • a non-polar oil may one or more of non-polar oils disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 10,154,954, which is incorporated herein by reference it its entirety.
  • Nonpolar oils are hydrocarbons. They lack an electronegative element like oxygen, which results in their typical hydrocarbon feel.
  • oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • non-polar oil may mean an oil for which the solubility parameter at 25 degrees centigrade, d a , as defined above, is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • hydrocarbon oil may mean an oil formed essentially from, indeed even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the non-polar oil may include one or more non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils.
  • At least one non-polar oil is chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes and/or polybutenes.
  • the at least one non-polar oil may include squalane (a triterpene consisting of 2,6, 10, 15, 19,23-Hexamethyltetracosane).
  • the at least one non-polar oil may include C9-C14 alkanes, such as isoparaffins, isododecane and isohexadecane.
  • at least one non-polar oil may include Vegelight C9-12, which is C9-12 Alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate/caprate.
  • the at least one oil may include at least one plant-based oil or a vegetable oil, such as hydrogenated vegetable oil, jojoba oil, Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil, coconut oil, palm oil, palm-kernel oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, beech nut oil, Brazilian Nut Oil, cashew oil, Jamaican cobnut oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, mongongo nut oil, pecan oil, pine nut oil, pistachio oil, walnut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, lemon oil, orange oil, watermelon seed oil, Egusi seed oil, Butternut squash seed oil, Buffalo gourd oil, bottle gourd oil, bitter gourd oil, avocado oil, cape chestnut oil, Argan oil, Castor oil, date seed oil, grape seed oil.
  • a vegetable oil such as hydrogenated vegetable oil, jojoba oil, Cucumis Sativus
  • the at least one plant-based oil or a vegetable oil may be jojoba oil.
  • the amount of at least one plant-based oil, such as a jojoba oil, in the composition may vary.
  • a content of at least one plant-based oil, such as a jojoba oil, in the composition may be from 5 mass % to 30 mass % or from 5 mass % to 25 masses % or from 7 mass % to 24 mass % or from 8 mass % to 23 mass % or from 9 mass % to 21 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • the at least one oil may include at least one non-polar oil.
  • the amount of at least one non-polar oil in the composition may vary.
  • the content of the at least one non-polar oil in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 30 mass % or from 1 mass % to 20 masses % or from 1 mass % to 18 masses % or from 2 mass % to 18 masses % or from 3 mass % to 17 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • At least one non-polar oil may include squalane.
  • the amount of squalane in the composition may vary.
  • a content of squalane, in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 10 mass % or from 3 mass % to 16 masses % or from 3 mass % to 15 mass % or from 5 mass % to 15mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • the composition may be free of squalane.
  • At least one non-polar oil may include isododecane.
  • the amount of isododecane in the composition may vary.
  • a content of isododecane, in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 10 mass % or from 1 mass % to 5 masses % or from 1 mass % to 4 masses % or from 1 mass % to 3.5 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • the at least one oil may include at least one emollient.
  • at least one emollient may include triethylhexanoin.
  • the amount of triethylhexanoin in the composition may vary.
  • a content of triethylhexanoin in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 15 mass% or from 1 mass % to 10 mass% or from 3 mass % to 8 masses % or from 3.5 mass % to 7.5 mass % or from 4 mass % to 7 masses % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • the at least one oil may include at least one film former.
  • the at least one film former may include bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2.
  • the amount of bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 in the composition may vary.
  • a content of bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 5 masses % or from 1.5 mass % to 4.5 mass % or from 2 mass % to 4 masses %
  • the least one oil may include at least one emulsifier.
  • the at least one emulsifier may include at least one polyglyceryl emulsifier, such as polyglyceryl-6-polyrinocinoleate, polyglyceryl 6-distearate, polyglyceryl 3 -oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate or polyglyceryl-3 stearate.
  • polyglyceryl emulsifier such as polyglyceryl-6-polyrinocinoleate, polyglyceryl 6-distearate, polyglyceryl 3 -oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate or polyglyceryl-3 stearate.
  • Other possible emulsifiers could include but not limited to sorbitan stearate, Methyl Glucose Dioleate, glycolipid.
  • An amount of the at least one emulsifier, such as polyglyceryl emulsifier, e.g. polyglyceryl-6-polyrinocinoleate, in the composition may vary.
  • a content of the at least one emulsifier, such as polygly ceryl emulsifier, e.g. polyglyceryl-6-polyrinocinoleate, in the composition may be from 3 mass % to 8 masses % or from 3.5 mass % to 7.5 mass % or from 4 mass % to 6 masses % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • the at least one oil may include jojoba oil, squalane, isododecane, triethylhexanoin and polygly eery 1-6 polyrinocinoleate.
  • jojoba oil in the composition may be from 5 mass % to 25 mass %
  • an amount of squalane in the composition may be from 5 mass % to 15 mass%
  • an amount of isododecane in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 3.5 mass %
  • an amount of triethylhexanoin in the composition may be from 4 mass % to 7 mass %
  • an amount of bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 in the composition is 2 mass % for 4 mass % and an amount of polyglyceryl-6 polyrinocinoleate in the composition may be from 4 mass % to 6 mass %.
  • At least one oil may include at least one antioxidant, such as tocopherol.
  • the least one oil may include at least one skin active agent, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, vitamin A/B3/C, ceramides, alpha hydroxy acid, beta hydroxyl acid, retinol, hyaluronic acid.
  • the amount of at least one skin active agent, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, in the composition may vary.
  • a content of the at least one skin active agent, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, in the composition may be from 0.1 mass% to 5 mass 5 or 0.1 mass % to 1 mass % or from 0.2 mass % to 0.8 mass % or from 0.4 mass % to 0.6 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • a thickener or a thickening agent is an ingredient that can enhance consistency, volume and/or viscosity of a cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may include at least one thickener, which may include a hectorite oil thickener.
  • the hectorite oil thickener is a hectorite ingredient that enhances (thickens) consistency, volume and/or viscosity of at least one oil in the cosmetic composition.
  • the hectorite oil thickener may be selected from, for example, dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite, dimethyl distearyl ammonium bentonite, and dimethyl distearyl ammonium modified montmorillonite and others, as described and exemplified in U.S. Pat. Pub. No. 2007/0071703, which is hereby incorporated by reference.
  • hectorite oil thickeners include, for example, bentonites and organically modified hectorites pre-dispersed in organic solvents.
  • bentonite is BENTONE GEL® series, including BENTONE GEL® ISD V (INCI: Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate), BENTONE GEL® TNV (INCI: Cl 2- 15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate), BENTONE® 38 VCG ( Disteardimonium Hectorite) available from Elementis Specialties.
  • BENTONE GEL® ISD V Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
  • BENTONE GEL® TNV INCI: Cl 2- 15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
  • BENTONE® 38 VCG Disteardimonium Hectorite
  • the hectorite oil thickener may be selected from Disteardimonium Hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorite and mixtures thereof.
  • the hectorite oil thickener may be utilized in a solid powder form. Yet in some embodiments, the hectorite oil thickener may be used as a gel, where the powder(s) are dispersed in a carrier, such as for example, mineral oil, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutane, Cl 2- 15 alkyl benzoate, and/or isonolnyl isononanoate.
  • a carrier such as for example, mineral oil, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutane, Cl 2- 15 alkyl benzoate, and/or isonolnyl isononanoate.
  • An amount of the hectorite oil thickener, such as Disteardimonium Hectorite and/or Stearalkonium Hectorite, which may be a powder or a gel, may vary.
  • a powder amount of the at least one hydrophobic gelling agent, such as Disteardimonium Hectorite and/or Stearalkonium Hectorite, in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.1 mass % to 6.0 mass % or 0.1 mass% to 5.0 mass% or from 0.2 mass % to 5.0 mass % or from 0.3 mass % to 4.5 mass % or from 0.4 mass % to 4.0 mass % or from 0.5 mass % to 3.5 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • the cosmetic composition includes a cellulose or a cellulose derivative, which may serve as a thickener in addition to the hectorite oil thickener.
  • the cellulose may be a hydrophilic cellulose. In some embodiments, the cellulose may be a hydrophilic spherical cellulose.
  • cellulose may be Cellulo Flow C-25.
  • An amount of cellulose in the composition may vary.
  • a content of the cellulose in the composition may be from 0.1 mass% to 3.0 mass % or from 0.2 mass % to 3.0 mass % or from 0.3 mass % to 2.8 mass % or from 0.5 mass % to 2.5 mass % or from 0.7 mass % to 2.2 mass % or from 0.5 mass% to 2 mass % or from 1 mass % to 2 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • the cosmetic composition includes one or more ultraviolet scattering particles, which may be selected, for example, from zinc oxide particles, titanium oxide particles and their mixtures.
  • the ultraviolet scattering particles may be hydrophobically treated.
  • the hydrophobically treated particles may be dispersed in the at least one oil. In some embodiments, the hydrophobically treated particles are not pre-dispersed into any oil.
  • ultraviolet scattering particles may be micronized particles.
  • the term ‘micronized’ may mean particles having a primary particles size ranging from 5 to 500 nm, such as from 10 to 300 nm, when the particles are spherical or granular or amorphous. If the particles are acicular, the primary particle size may range from 5 to 50 nm by 50 to 150 nm. Primary particle size may be analyzed using a microscopic technique, such as Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) or Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM).
  • TEM Transmission Electron Microscopy
  • SEM Scanning Electron Microscopy
  • Ultraviolet scattering particles which may be used in the composition, are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patents 11,253,448 and 11,707,422, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
  • the ultraviolet scattering particles may include particles, such as ZnO particles, having an average size from 100 nm to 500 nm.
  • the ultraviolet scattering particle may include no particles with an average size less than 100 nm. In some embodiments, the ultraviolet scattering particle may include no ZnO particles with an average size less than 100 nm.
  • the one or more ultraviolet scattering particles do not include silicone treated particles. At least some of the ultraviolet scattering particles may be treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid]. Such particles are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 11253448 and U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20220125695, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Ultraviolet scattering particles may be treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] are commercially available, for example, from Vizor Sun.
  • Ultraviolet scattering particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] may be micronized particles.
  • Poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] are oligomers of hydroxy fatty acids.
  • Representative oligomers are polyhydroxystearic acid (PHSA), polyricinoleic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • Polyhydroxystearic acids are oligomers of 12-hy dr oxy stearic acid. These form by homopolymeric condensation of 12-hy droxystearic acid monomer units.
  • the oligomer may have from 2 to 10, preferably from 2 to 4 repeating monomer units. The material is available from Innospec Inc.
  • the poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] may be the one and only coating surrounding ultraviolet scattering particles treated with the poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid]. Normally, no other substance may intervene between the poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid] coating and the ultraviolet scattering particles treated with the poly [Cs- C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid].
  • the poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] may be polyhydroxystearic acid.
  • one or more ultraviolet scattering particles may comprise zinc oxide particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid], such as polyhy droxystearic acid.
  • such zinc oxide particles may have an average size at least or greater than 100 nm, such as from 100 nm to 500 nm.
  • the amount of zinc oxide particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, in the cosmetic composition may vary.
  • the content of zinc oxide particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid], such as poly hydroxy stearic acid in the composition may be from 2 mass % to 30 mass % or from 5 mass % to 25 mass % or from 10 mass % to 25 mass % or from 15 mass % to 25 mass % or from 19 mass % to 23 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • one or more ultraviolet scattering particles may comprise titanium dioxide particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid.
  • such titanium oxide particles may be micronized particles.
  • such titanium dioxide particles may have an average size from 100 nm to 500 nm.
  • the titanium dioxide particles may have an average size from 5 nm to 100 nm or from 5 nm to 50 nm or from 5 nm to 20 nm, such as about 10 nm.
  • the amount of the titanium dioxide particles in the cosmetic composition may vary.
  • the content of the titanium dioxide particles, such as titanium dioxide particles having an average size from 5 nm to 100 nm, in the composition may be from 2 mass % to 25 mass % or from 3 mass % to 20 mass % or from 5 mass % to 15 mass % or from 5 mass % to 10 mass % or from 6 mass % to 10 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • one or more ultraviolet scattering particles may comprise zinc oxide particles and titanium oxide particles, which are both treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid.
  • both titanium oxide particles and zinc oxide particles may be micronized particles.
  • both titanium dioxide particles and zinc oxide particles may have an average size from 100 nm to 500 nm.
  • the amount of one or more ultraviolet scattering particles in the cosmetic composition may vary.
  • the content of one or more ultraviolet scattering particles in the composition may be from 15 mass % to 60 mass % or from 16 mass % to 55 mass % or from
  • the amount of ultraviolet scattering particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, in the composition may vary.
  • a content of the ultraviolet scattering particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, in the composition may be from 15 mass % to 40 masses % or from 20 mass % to 40 mass % or from 16 mass % to 38 masses % or from 18 mass % to 35 masses %.
  • the amounts of the poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, and the inorganic particles per se in the ultraviolet scattering particles may be a relative weight ratio of 1 : 100 to 1 : 10, or 1 : 70 to 1 : 15 or 1 : 50 to 1 :20, such as 1 : 50, 1:45, 1 :40, 1:35, 1:30, 1:25, and 1:20.
  • the amounts of the poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxy lie acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, and the inorganic particles per se in the ultraviolet scattering particles may be such as those disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 11253448 and U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20220125695, which are incorporated herein be reference in their entirety.
  • the cosmetic composition may also include additional ingredient(s), such as emollient(s), such as glycerin; preservative(s), such as phenoxyethanol and/or propanediol; anti oxi dant(s), such as flavonoids.
  • additional ingredient(s) such as emollient(s), such as glycerin; preservative(s), such as phenoxyethanol and/or propanediol; anti oxi dant(s), such as flavonoids.
  • the total content of the additional ingredient(s) may be from 0.5 mass% to 15 mass % or from 1 mass % to 15 masses % or from 1 mass % to 10 masses % or from 1 mass % to 8 masses % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
  • One exemplary composition may include 30 mass % to 50 mass % of the at least one oil; 0.1 mass % to 5 mass % of the hectorite oil thickener; 1.0 mass % to 2.0 mass % of hydrophilic cellulose; and 20 mass % to 40 mass % of ultraviolet scattering particles, including a zinc oxide powder treated with polyhydroxystearic acid and having an average particle size from 100 nm to 500 nm, and a hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide powder.
  • the composition may be prepared by mixing ingredients of oil phase A in a container.
  • Ingredients of the oil phase A may include one or more of non-polar oil(s), such as squalane; polar oil(s), which may be a plant-based oil, such as jojoba oil; a film former, such as bisglyceryl polyacryladipate-2; antioxidant(s); skin active ingredient(s).
  • the mixed ingredients of oil phase A may be brought to a uniform condition by using, for example, a mixer at a mixing rate, such as 4-5K rpm.
  • a hectorite oil thickener may be added to mixed oil phase A.
  • the mixture may be homogenized by using a mixer at a homogenizing rate, such 7-9K rpm.
  • additional ingredients of oil phase B such as sensory modifier(s) and pigment(s) may be added.
  • the resulting mixture may be mixed at the mixing rate.
  • a wetting agent such ethylhexyl palmilate
  • the ultraviolet scattering particles may be added to the mixture.
  • zinc oxide particles may be added first, followed by titanium dioxide.
  • a mixer at a homogenizing rate, such 7-9K RPM, may be used to homogenized the mixture uniformly, the resulting mixture contains the ingredients of oil phases A, B and C.
  • Water phase D may be prepared in a separate container. Water phase D may be prepared in multiple stages. For example, a mixture of an humectant, such as glycerin, and an additional ingredient, such as an extract, e.g. silymarin, may be prepared and a separate mixture of water and other additional ingredients, such as other extracts, such as astabio and zemea, may be prepared. The two mixtures may be then mixed together.
  • phase D is prepared in the separate container it may be added to the original container with the mixture of oil phases A, B and C.
  • the resulting mixture may be homogenized.
  • the resulting mixture may be cooled down and degassed using a vacuum pump.
  • Table 1 provides ingredients for an exemplary composition.
  • composition of Table 1 was prepared according to the following procedure:
  • Bentone gel was added to the ingredients of phase A while mixing uniformly at 4-5K RPM. The mixture was homogenized at 8K RPM for 1 min, then the mixing rate was returned to 4-5K RPM. The remaining ingredients for phase B were added and mixed uniformly at 4-5K RPM.
  • the wetting agent was added while the mixture was dispersing at 4-5K RPM.
  • the mixing rate was changed to 6-8K RPM, then zinc oxide particles followed by titanium dioxide particles were added and the mixture was homogenized uniformly at 8K RPM for 1 min.
  • Phase D was prepared separately in 2 parts: (a) silymarin was dissolved in a glycerin mix well using a propeller mixer at 500 to 700 RPM, then the remaining ingredients of Phase D except water, astabio, and zemea, were added, (b) astabio was dissolved in water, then zemea was added; and the resulting product was mixed well using a propeller mixer at 500-700 RPM until uniform.
  • the mixed Phase D was added to the previously prepared mixture of Phases A, B and C to form a final mixture, which was homogenized at 8K RPM for 1 min.
  • the homogenized final mixture was cooled down and degassed using a vacuum pump.
  • FIG. 1A-B shows photographs of the composition of Table 1 before (A) and (B) after shaking.
  • the shaking makes the composition more uniform.
  • Figure 1A shows that before shaking, the emulsion separates, while Figure IB shows that after shaking the emulsion is uniformly homogenous.
  • the composition of Table 1 is a shake well product (mix & shake).
  • FIG. 2 is a Table which provides ingredients for a number for cosmetic compositions.
  • the ingredients include zinc oxide with different surface treatments, a Bentone thickener, and oil sensory modifiers.
  • Figure 2 provides various compositions with a number of variations, such as modifications of mass % of existing raw material based on Table 1 and/or additional materials added.
  • Total Oil phase in the Table of Figure 2 is composed of phases A, B, and C. Exemplary ingredients for phases of composition in the Table of Figure 2 are presented below.
  • Jojoba oil External phase is Jojoba oil and is also considered to be a polar oil for oil phase. Treated as “oil”
  • - Sy-Glyster CRS75 is a W/O emulsifier and dispersant for oil phase
  • Red pigment used for oil phase Phase C Oil Phase
  • nano hydrophobic treated titanium dioxide UV scattering filter to provide high SPF and low degree of white casting on the skin.
  • FIG. 3 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples. Mineral sunscreen samples were analyzed for properties of Whiteness Index (Hunter Lab) by XRite Spectrophotometer and in vitro UVB absorbance using Hitachi Spectrophotometer. Samples #1 -#14, #19-#20 give higher in vitro UVB absorbance and lower whiteness index as compared to the Comparative samples #2-#7. Sample #1-14, and #19-#20 provide lower whiteness index than Comparative #l-#7, Sample #15-#l 8 has higher in vitro UVB absorbance than Comparative #1.
  • Hunter Lab Whiteness Index
  • FIG. 4 is a plot showing bulk viscosity versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples. Mineral Sunscreen samples were analyzed for properties of bulk viscosity by Brookfield viscometer and Invitro UVB absorbance using Hitachi Spectrophotometer. Majority of sunscreen samples showed viscosity values of less than -5000 cps compared to comparative sample #2, #3, and #4 to confirm easy spreading/light feeling on skin with higher SPF value.
  • FIG. 5 is a plot showing in vitro absorbance (sun protection factor (SPF)) measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples.
  • the samples were analyzed for in vitro SPF value and invitro UVB absorbance using Hitachi vs. Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer. An approximately linear correlation between the two instruments used for measuring sun protection (290-320 nm) was observed.
  • the Labsphere has a pre-built algorithm that calculates the in vitro SPF (sun protection factor from UVB radiation from 290 nm - 320 nm) and in vitro UVA protection factor (the protection from UVA radiation from 320 nm - 400 nm).
  • Plastic PMMA HD6 substrates with a specific amount of sunscreen dosage are applied from each sample prototype & competitor benchmark. UV radiation is then applied onto the substrates with the applied dosage of each sunscreen sample in order to measure and mimic the real-life scenario of sunburning on the human skin.
  • UVB absorbance is another indicator to measure the SPF value of a sunscreen from either the Labsphere or Hitachi spectrophotometer. Higher UVB absorbance produces higher sun protection and vice versa.
  • FIG. 6 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVA protection factor (PF) rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer for a number of samples. The samples were analyzed for bulk whiteness index (Hunter Lab) by Xrite Spectrophotometer and in vitro UVA Protection Factor by Labsphere UV2000s. Samples #1 -#14, #19-#20 showed a lower whiteness index (less white cast on skin) than all comparative samples. Samples #16-#18 have higher whiteness index (whiter cast on skin) and higher UVA PF (more UVA protection) than all comparative samples.
  • FIG. 6 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVA protection factor (PF) rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer for a number of samples. The samples were analyzed for bulk whiteness index (Hunter Lab) by Xrite Spectrophotometer and in vitro UVA Protection Factor by Labsphere UV2000s. Samples #1 -#14, #19-#
  • UVA PF Rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer
  • in-vitro UVB Absorbance measured by Hitachi Spectrophotometer.
  • Mineral sunscreen samples were analyzed for in vitro UVB absorbance (sun protection factor) and UVA PF Rating (UVA protection factor) using Hitachi and Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer.
  • a higher UVA PF rating and higher in vitro UVB absorbance gives more broad-spectrum sun protection.
  • Samples #1-#11, and #13-#20 show higher broad-spectrum protection than Comparative Samples #2-#7.
  • FIG. 8 is a plot showing UVA PF Rating versus In vitro SPF measured Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer. Mineral sunscreen samples were analyzed for properties of UVA PF Rating and invitro SPF value by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer. Higher SPF and higher invitro UVA PF rating gives higher broad-spectrum sun protection All Samples give more broadspectrum protection than Comparative samples #2-#7.
  • FIG. 9A-B presents various sunscreen compositions and results of their tests.
  • the data in Figure 9A-B shows various sunscreen compositions with different ZnO raw materials with supporting data of initial viscosity, in vitro UVB Absorbance vs. other products on market.

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Abstract

A cosmetic composition may contain (a) at least one oil; (b) a hectorite oil thickener; (c) a cellulose; and (d) one or more ultraviolet scattering powders selected from zinc oxide, titanium oxide and their mixtures. At least some particles of the one or more ultraviolet scattering powders are treated with poly[C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid]. An amount of the at least one oil in the composition is no more than 60 mass %. An amount of water in the composition is no more than 30 mass %.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, INCLUDING SUNSCREEN COMPOSITIONS, AND RELATED METHODS
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION
The present application claims priority to U.S. Patent Application No. 63/903,794, filed November 29, 2023, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
FIELD
The present disclosure relates in general to cosmetic compositions, their uses and methods of making and more specifically, to cosmetic composition, which may have sun screening properties, uses of such compositions as well as their methods of making.
SUMMARY
A cosmetic composition comprises (a) at least one oil; (b) a hectorite thickener; (c) a cellulose; and (d) one or more ultraviolet scattering powders selected from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof, wherein at least some particles of said one or more ultraviolet scattering powders are treated with poly[Cs-C2o hydroxy carboxylic acid], an amount of the at least one oil in the composition is no more than 50 mass %, and an amount of water in the composition is no more than 30 mass %.
FIGURES
FIG. 1 A-B shows photographs of an exemplary cosmetic composition before (A) and after (B) shaking.
FIG. 2 is a Table which provides ingredients for a number for cosmetic compositions.
FIG. 3 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples.
FIG. 4 is a plot showing bulk viscosity versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples. FIG. 5 is a plot showing in vitro absorbance (sun protection factor (SPF)) measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples.
FIG. 6 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVA protection factor (PF) rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer for a number of samples.
FIG. 7 is a plot showing UVA protection factor (PF) Rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer) versus in-vitro UVB Absorbance measured by Hitachi Spectrophotometer.
FIG. 8 is a plot showing UVA PF Rating versus In vitro SPF measured Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer.
FIG. 9A-B presents various sunscreen compositions and results of their tests. The data in Figure 9A-B shows the prototype sunscreen formulas composed of different ZnO raw materials with supporting data of initial viscosity, in-vitro UVB Absorbance vs. other products on market.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
Unless otherwise specified “a” or “an” means one or more.
As used herein, the term “about” placed before a specific numeric value may mean ±20% of the numeric value; ±18% of the numeric value, ±15% of the numeric value; ±12% of the numeric value; ±8% of the numeric value; ±5% of the numeric value; ±3% of the numeric value; ±2% of the numeric value; ±1% of the numeric value or ±0.5% of the numeric value.
All content information for ingredients of compositions expressed as percent (%) refers to percent (%) by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, unless specified otherwise.
Consumers often prefer high Sun Protection Factor (SPF) mineral sunscreen products over organic sunscreen products due to the advantages of mineral sunscreen products compared to organic sunscreen products, such as broad-spectrum sun protection; safety; less skin irritation or allergic reactions produced by the mineral sunscreen products compared to the organic sunscreen products; environmentally friendliness and photo-stability. However, the challenge with mineral sunscreen products may be that when loaded with a high level of mineral sun blocking particles, mineral sunscreen product often leaves white cast on the skin, can be difficult to spread out evenly on skin and leaves greasy and/or sticky feeling. The present inventors discovered that an oil-based cosmetic composition, without water, or with a low level of water, such as no more than 30%, could load a high level of mineral sun blocking particles, such as ZnO and/or TiCh particles, and therefore, provide a high level of sun protection, while being easy to spread, having no greasy feeling and not leaving a noticeable white cast on skin when applied.
According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may include (a) at least one oil; (b) a hectorite thickener; (c) a cellulose; and (d) one or more ultraviolet scattering powders selected from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof. At least some particles of the one or more ultraviolet scattering powders may be treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid]. An amount of at least one oil in the composition may be no more than 50 mass %. The amount of water in the composition may be no more than 30 mass %.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be used in a sun protective, i.e., sunscreen, cosmetic product. The sun protective cosmetic product may have a sun protection factor (SPF). An SPF on sunscreen products stands for sun protection factor, a relative measurement for the amount of time the sunscreen will provide protection from ultraviolet (UV) rays. UVB rays primarily affect the outer layer of the skin, the epidermis. They are responsible for sunburns and some surface-level skin cancers. The sun also emits UVA rays, which can penetrate the lower level of the skin, called the dermis. UVA rays are typically associated with “tanning.” SPF numbers refer only to UVB rays, but sunscreens can protect against UVA as well. If a sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB radiation, it is labelled as “broad spectrum” sunscreen.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may have an SPF of at least 10 or at least 20 or at least 30 or at least 40 or at least 50. The cosmetic composition may have a low viscosity, such at no more than 6000 cps, no more than 5500 cps or no more than 5000 cps or no more than 4000 cps or no more than 3000 cps. In some embodiments, the viscosity may be from 300 cps to 6000 cps or from 400 cps to 5500 cps or from 500 cps to 5000 cps. As used herein, the term “viscosity” usually refers to low shear viscosity, such as a viscosity at 10 s'1 or lower share rate, or zero shear viscosity. The low viscosity may allow for easy and fast spreading when the composition is applied to a keratinous surface, such as skin or lips.
The cosmetic composition may have a pleasant texture and overall sensory attributes. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may have a pink to off-pink lotion-like appearance and texture The cosmetic composition may be easily spread on skin with smooth, lightweight sensory and quick dry after-feel. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may leave skin natural radiant and glowing appearance after application without noticeable white cast and greasy sensory.
The cosmetic composition may provide only low or whiteness when applied to a keratinous surface, such as skin or lips.
The cosmetic composition may be transparent when applied to a keratinous surface, such as skin or lips.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be used alone. In other words, the composition may be applied alone, without another composition, to a keratinous surface or substrate, such as skin, of a subject, such as a human. Yet, in some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be used together with another composition, which may be, for example, a cosmetic or skincare composition, such as a makeup composition or another skin care product. For example, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be applied to the keratinous surface before or after another composition is applied. WATER
In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be an anhydrous composition containing no water at all.
Yet in some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may contain water in the amount of no more or less than 30%, no more or less than 25%, no more or less than 20%, no more or less than 15%, no more or less than 10%, no more or less than 5%, no more or less than 4.5 %. For example, in some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may contain water in the amount of from 0.0001% to 30% or 0.0001% to 10 % or 0.1% to 30%, from 0.1% to 25%, from 0.1 % to 20%, or from 0.1% to 15%, from 0.1% to 10%, from 0.1% to 5%, from 0.1 to 4.5 %, from 0.3% to 5%; from 0.5% to 5%, from 1% to 5%, from 2% to 5%, from 3% to 5% or from 4% to 5% or any value or subrange within those ranges.
OIL
The at least one oil may include at least one polar oil, at least one non-polar oil or a combination of at least polar oil and at least one non-polar oil. The amount of at least one oil in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, an amount of the at least one oil in the composition may be up to 60%, such as from 15 mass % to 60 mass % or 15 mass % to 50 mass % or from 30 mass 5 to 50 mass % or from 15 mass % to 40 mass % or from 18 mass % to 35 mass % or from 20 mass % to 30 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
Polar Oil
The term "polar oil" means any lipophilic (hydrophobic) compound having at 25°C, a solubility parameter 5a characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter 5P characteristic of polar interactions of strictly greater than 0. The solubility parameters 5a and 8P are defined according to the Hansen classification. For example, these polar oils may be chosen from esters, triglycerides and ethers. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
According to this Hansen space:
- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;
- 8P characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and
- 5a is determined by the equation: 5a = (8P 2 + 5h2) 1/2.
The parameters 8P, 5h, 5p and 5a are expressed in (J/cm3) 1/2
The polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro oil.
These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. The polar oil may have a surface tension of greater than 10 mN/m at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
The surface activity is measured by static tensiometry using the Du Nouy ring.
The principle of the measurement is discussed in WO12110302, which is incorporated by references in its entirety.
In some embodiments, the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil. In particular, the non-volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
- hydrocarbon-based polar oils such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from Cl 8 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g/mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; - hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, trioleoyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethyl hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12 to Cl 5 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, and myristyl myristate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate;
- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
- fluorinated oils which are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone- based;
- fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleic acid; - dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC by Cognis; and
- non-volatile oils of high molecular mass, for example between 400 and 10 000 g/mol, in particular between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance: i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1 -hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol), ii) esters such as: a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g/mol), c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g/mol), C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate and butyloctyl salicylate, d) esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891 .51 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1 143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g/mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g/mol), e) esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference,
- and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the polar oil is chosen from C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, butyloctyl salicylate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate.
In some embodiments, the polar oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
In some embodiments, the polar oil may be ethylhexyl olivate.
Non-polar oil
A non-polar oil may one or more of non-polar oils disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 10,154,954, which is incorporated herein by reference it its entirety.
Nonpolar oils are hydrocarbons. They lack an electronegative element like oxygen, which results in their typical hydrocarbon feel.
These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term “non-polar oil" may mean an oil for which the solubility parameter at 25 degrees centigrade, da, as defined above, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)1/2.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" may mean an oil formed essentially from, indeed even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
In some embodiments, the non-polar oil may include one or more non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils. The non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, Isosdodecane, isohexadecane; alkane; poly butylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam(R) sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats Corporation, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) or Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol), decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, poly decenes and hydrogenated poly decenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, at least one non-polar oil is chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes and/or polybutenes.
In some embodiments, the at least one non-polar oil may include squalane (a triterpene consisting of 2,6, 10, 15, 19,23-Hexamethyltetracosane).
In some embodiments, the at least one non-polar oil may include C9-C14 alkanes, such as isoparaffins, isododecane and isohexadecane. In some embodiments, at least one non-polar oil may include Vegelight C9-12, which is C9-12 Alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate/caprate.
In some embodiments, the at least one oil may include at least one plant-based oil or a vegetable oil, such as hydrogenated vegetable oil, jojoba oil, Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil, coconut oil, palm oil, palm-kernel oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, beech nut oil, Brazilian Nut Oil, cashew oil, Jamaican cobnut oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, mongongo nut oil, pecan oil, pine nut oil, pistachio oil, walnut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, lemon oil, orange oil, watermelon seed oil, Egusi seed oil, Butternut squash seed oil, Buffalo gourd oil, bottle gourd oil, bitter gourd oil, Avocado oil, cape chestnut oil, Argan oil, Castor oil, date seed oil, grape seed oil.
In some embodiments, the at least one plant-based oil or a vegetable oil may be jojoba oil.
The amount of at least one plant-based oil, such as a jojoba oil, in the composition may vary.
For example, in some embodiments, a content of at least one plant-based oil, such as a jojoba oil, in the composition may be from 5 mass % to 30 mass % or from 5 mass % to 25 masses % or from 7 mass % to 24 mass % or from 8 mass % to 23 mass % or from 9 mass % to 21 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
In some embodiments, the at least one oil may include at least one non-polar oil. The amount of at least one non-polar oil in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, the content of the at least one non-polar oil in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 30 mass % or from 1 mass % to 20 masses % or from 1 mass % to 18 masses % or from 2 mass % to 18 masses % or from 3 mass % to 17 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
In some embodiments, at least one non-polar oil may include squalane. The amount of squalane in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, a content of squalane, in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 10 mass % or from 3 mass % to 16 masses % or from 3 mass % to 15 mass % or from 5 mass % to 15mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
In some other embodiments, the composition may be free of squalane.
In some embodiments, at least one non-polar oil may include isododecane. The amount of isododecane in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, a content of isododecane, in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 10 mass % or from 1 mass % to 5 masses % or from 1 mass % to 4 masses % or from 1 mass % to 3.5 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
In some embodiments, the at least one oil may include at least one emollient. In some embodiments, at least one emollient may include triethylhexanoin. The amount of triethylhexanoin in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, a content of triethylhexanoin in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 15 mass% or from 1 mass % to 10 mass% or from 3 mass % to 8 masses % or from 3.5 mass % to 7.5 mass % or from 4 mass % to 7 masses % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
In some embodiments, the at least one oil may include at least one film former.
In some embodiments, the at least one film former may include bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2. The amount of bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, a content of bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 5 masses % or from 1.5 mass % to 4.5 mass % or from 2 mass % to 4 masses %
In some embodiments, the least one oil may include at least one emulsifier. For example, in some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier may include at least one polyglyceryl emulsifier, such as polyglyceryl-6-polyrinocinoleate, polyglyceryl 6-distearate, polyglyceryl 3 -oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate or polyglyceryl-3 stearate. Other possible emulsifiers could include but not limited to sorbitan stearate, Methyl Glucose Dioleate, glycolipid. An amount of the at least one emulsifier, such as polyglyceryl emulsifier, e.g. polyglyceryl-6-polyrinocinoleate, in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, a content of the at least one emulsifier, such as polygly ceryl emulsifier, e.g. polyglyceryl-6-polyrinocinoleate, in the composition may be from 3 mass % to 8 masses % or from 3.5 mass % to 7.5 mass % or from 4 mass % to 6 masses % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
In some embodiments, the at least one oil may include jojoba oil, squalane, isododecane, triethylhexanoin and polygly eery 1-6 polyrinocinoleate. For example, at amount of the jojoba oil in the composition may be from 5 mass % to 25 mass %, an amount of squalane in the composition may be from 5 mass % to 15 mass%, an amount of isododecane in the composition may be from 1 mass % to 3.5 mass %, an amount of triethylhexanoin in the composition may be from 4 mass % to 7 mass %, an amount of bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 in the composition is 2 mass % for 4 mass % and an amount of polyglyceryl-6 polyrinocinoleate in the composition may be from 4 mass % to 6 mass %.
In some embodiments, at least one oil may include at least one antioxidant, such as tocopherol.
In some embodiments, the least one oil may include at least one skin active agent, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, vitamin A/B3/C, ceramides, alpha hydroxy acid, beta hydroxyl acid, retinol, hyaluronic acid. The amount of at least one skin active agent, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, a content of the at least one skin active agent, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, in the composition may be from 0.1 mass% to 5 mass 5 or 0.1 mass % to 1 mass % or from 0.2 mass % to 0.8 mass % or from 0.4 mass % to 0.6 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
THICKENER
In cosmetic products, a thickener or a thickening agent is an ingredient that can enhance consistency, volume and/or viscosity of a cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition may include at least one thickener, which may include a hectorite oil thickener. The hectorite oil thickener is a hectorite ingredient that enhances (thickens) consistency, volume and/or viscosity of at least one oil in the cosmetic composition.
In some embodiments, the hectorite oil thickener may be selected from, for example, dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite, dimethyl distearyl ammonium bentonite, and dimethyl distearyl ammonium modified montmorillonite and others, as described and exemplified in U.S. Pat. Pub. No. 2007/0071703, which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Examples of hectorite oil thickeners include, for example, bentonites and organically modified hectorites pre-dispersed in organic solvents. A non-limiting example of commercially available bentonite is BENTONE GEL® series, including BENTONE GEL® ISD V (INCI: Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate), BENTONE GEL® TNV (INCI: Cl 2- 15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate), BENTONE® 38 VCG ( Disteardimonium Hectorite) available from Elementis Specialties.
In some embodiments, the hectorite oil thickener may be selected from Disteardimonium Hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorite and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the hectorite oil thickener may be utilized in a solid powder form. Yet in some embodiments, the hectorite oil thickener may be used as a gel, where the powder(s) are dispersed in a carrier, such as for example, mineral oil, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutane, Cl 2- 15 alkyl benzoate, and/or isonolnyl isononanoate.
An amount of the hectorite oil thickener, such as Disteardimonium Hectorite and/or Stearalkonium Hectorite, which may be a powder or a gel, may vary. In some embodiments, a powder amount of the at least one hydrophobic gelling agent, such as Disteardimonium Hectorite and/or Stearalkonium Hectorite, in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.1 mass % to 6.0 mass % or 0.1 mass% to 5.0 mass% or from 0.2 mass % to 5.0 mass % or from 0.3 mass % to 4.5 mass % or from 0.4 mass % to 4.0 mass % or from 0.5 mass % to 3.5 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
Cellulose
The cosmetic composition includes a cellulose or a cellulose derivative, which may serve as a thickener in addition to the hectorite oil thickener.
In some embodiments, the cellulose may be a hydrophilic cellulose. In some embodiments, the cellulose may be a hydrophilic spherical cellulose.
One non-limiting example of cellulose may be Cellulo Flow C-25.
An amount of cellulose in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, a content of the cellulose in the composition may be from 0.1 mass% to 3.0 mass % or from 0.2 mass % to 3.0 mass % or from 0.3 mass % to 2.8 mass % or from 0.5 mass % to 2.5 mass % or from 0.7 mass % to 2.2 mass % or from 0.5 mass% to 2 mass % or from 1 mass % to 2 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
ULTRAVIOLET SCATTERING PARTICLES
The cosmetic composition includes one or more ultraviolet scattering particles, which may be selected, for example, from zinc oxide particles, titanium oxide particles and their mixtures.
In many embodiments, the ultraviolet scattering particles may be hydrophobically treated. In some embodiments, the hydrophobically treated particles may be dispersed in the at least one oil. In some embodiments, the hydrophobically treated particles are not pre-dispersed into any oil.
In some embodiments, ultraviolet scattering particles may be micronized particles. The term ‘micronized’ may mean particles having a primary particles size ranging from 5 to 500 nm, such as from 10 to 300 nm, when the particles are spherical or granular or amorphous. If the particles are acicular, the primary particle size may range from 5 to 50 nm by 50 to 150 nm. Primary particle size may be analyzed using a microscopic technique, such as Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) or Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM).
Ultraviolet scattering particles, which may be used in the composition, are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patents 11,253,448 and 11,707,422, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
In some embodiments, the ultraviolet scattering particles may include particles, such as ZnO particles, having an average size from 100 nm to 500 nm.
In some embodiments, the ultraviolet scattering particle may include no particles with an average size less than 100 nm. In some embodiments, the ultraviolet scattering particle may include no ZnO particles with an average size less than 100 nm.
Preferably, the one or more ultraviolet scattering particles do not include silicone treated particles. At least some of the ultraviolet scattering particles may be treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid]. Such particles are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 11253448 and U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20220125695, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Ultraviolet scattering particles may be treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] are commercially available, for example, from Vizor Sun.
Ultraviolet scattering particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] may be micronized particles.
Poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] are oligomers of hydroxy fatty acids. Representative oligomers are polyhydroxystearic acid (PHSA), polyricinoleic acid and mixtures thereof. Polyhydroxystearic acids are oligomers of 12-hy dr oxy stearic acid. These form by homopolymeric condensation of 12-hy droxystearic acid monomer units. The oligomer may have from 2 to 10, preferably from 2 to 4 repeating monomer units. The material is available from Innospec Inc.
In many embodiments, the poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] may be the one and only coating surrounding ultraviolet scattering particles treated with the poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid]. Normally, no other substance may intervene between the poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid] coating and the ultraviolet scattering particles treated with the poly [Cs- C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid].
In some embodiments, the poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid] may be polyhydroxystearic acid.
In some embodiments, one or more ultraviolet scattering particles may comprise zinc oxide particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid], such as polyhy droxystearic acid. In some embodiments, such zinc oxide particles may have an average size at least or greater than 100 nm, such as from 100 nm to 500 nm. The amount of zinc oxide particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, in the cosmetic composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, the content of zinc oxide particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid], such as poly hydroxy stearic acid in the composition may be from 2 mass % to 30 mass % or from 5 mass % to 25 mass % or from 10 mass % to 25 mass % or from 15 mass % to 25 mass % or from 19 mass % to 23 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
In some embodiments, one or more ultraviolet scattering particles may comprise titanium dioxide particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid. In some embodiments, such titanium oxide particles may be micronized particles. In some embodiments, such titanium dioxide particles may have an average size from 100 nm to 500 nm. In some embodiments, the titanium dioxide particles may have an average size from 5 nm to 100 nm or from 5 nm to 50 nm or from 5 nm to 20 nm, such as about 10 nm.
The amount of the titanium dioxide particles in the cosmetic composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, the content of the titanium dioxide particles, such as titanium dioxide particles having an average size from 5 nm to 100 nm, in the composition may be from 2 mass % to 25 mass % or from 3 mass % to 20 mass % or from 5 mass % to 15 mass % or from 5 mass % to 10 mass % or from 6 mass % to 10 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
In some embodiments, one or more ultraviolet scattering particles may comprise zinc oxide particles and titanium oxide particles, which are both treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxycarboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid. In some embodiments, both titanium oxide particles and zinc oxide particles may be micronized particles. In some embodiments, both titanium dioxide particles and zinc oxide particles may have an average size from 100 nm to 500 nm.
The amount of one or more ultraviolet scattering particles in the cosmetic composition may vary.
For example, in some embodiments, the content of one or more ultraviolet scattering particles in the composition may be from 15 mass % to 60 mass % or from 16 mass % to 55 mass % or from
18 mass % to 50 mass % or from 20 mass % to 40 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
The amount of ultraviolet scattering particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, a content of the ultraviolet scattering particles treated with poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, in the composition may be from 15 mass % to 40 masses % or from 20 mass % to 40 mass % or from 16 mass % to 38 masses % or from 18 mass % to 35 masses %.
In some embodiments, the amounts of the poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxylic acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, and the inorganic particles per se in the ultraviolet scattering particles may be a relative weight ratio of 1 : 100 to 1 : 10, or 1 : 70 to 1 : 15 or 1 : 50 to 1 :20, such as 1 : 50, 1:45, 1 :40, 1:35, 1:30, 1:25, and 1:20.
In some embodiments, the amounts of the poly [C8-C20 hydroxy carboxy lie acid], such as polyhydroxystearic acid, and the inorganic particles per se in the ultraviolet scattering particles may be such as those disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 11253448 and U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20220125695, which are incorporated herein be reference in their entirety.
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may also include additional ingredient(s), such as emollient(s), such as glycerin; preservative(s), such as phenoxyethanol and/or propanediol; anti oxi dant(s), such as flavonoids.. The total content of the additional ingredient(s) may be from 0.5 mass% to 15 mass % or from 1 mass % to 15 masses % or from 1 mass % to 10 masses % or from 1 mass % to 8 masses % or any value or subrange within these ranges.
EXEMPLARY FORMULATIONS
One exemplary composition may include 30 mass % to 50 mass % of the at least one oil; 0.1 mass % to 5 mass % of the hectorite oil thickener; 1.0 mass % to 2.0 mass % of hydrophilic cellulose; and 20 mass % to 40 mass % of ultraviolet scattering particles, including a zinc oxide powder treated with polyhydroxystearic acid and having an average particle size from 100 nm to 500 nm, and a hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide powder.
METHODS OF MAKING
The composition may be prepared by mixing ingredients of oil phase A in a container. Ingredients of the oil phase A may include one or more of non-polar oil(s), such as squalane; polar oil(s), which may be a plant-based oil, such as jojoba oil; a film former, such as bisglyceryl polyacryladipate-2; antioxidant(s); skin active ingredient(s). The mixed ingredients of oil phase A may be brought to a uniform condition by using, for example, a mixer at a mixing rate, such as 4-5K rpm.
A hectorite oil thickener may be added to mixed oil phase A. The mixture may be homogenized by using a mixer at a homogenizing rate, such 7-9K rpm. To the homogenized mixture, additional ingredients of oil phase B, such as sensory modifier(s) and pigment(s) may be added. The resulting mixture may be mixed at the mixing rate.
Then a wetting agent, such ethylhexyl palmilate, may be added the mixture. The ultraviolet scattering particles may be added to the mixture. In some embodiments, zinc oxide particles may be added first, followed by titanium dioxide. A mixer at a homogenizing rate, such 7-9K RPM, may be used to homogenized the mixture uniformly, the resulting mixture contains the ingredients of oil phases A, B and C. Water phase D may be prepared in a separate container. Water phase D may be prepared in multiple stages. For example, a mixture of an humectant, such as glycerin, and an additional ingredient, such as an extract, e.g. silymarin, may be prepared and a separate mixture of water and other additional ingredients, such as other extracts, such as astabio and zemea, may be prepared. The two mixtures may be then mixed together.
After phase D is prepared in the separate container it may be added to the original container with the mixture of oil phases A, B and C. The resulting mixture may be homogenized. The resulting mixture may be cooled down and degassed using a vacuum pump.
Embodiments described herein are further illustrated by, though in no way limited to, the following working examples.
EXAMPLES
Table 1 provides ingredients for an exemplary composition.
Figure imgf000023_0001
Figure imgf000024_0001
The composition of Table 1 was prepared according to the following procedure:
1. All ingredients were pre- weighed and then the ingredients of phase A were mixed uniformly at 4-5K RPM.
2. Bentone gel was added to the ingredients of phase A while mixing uniformly at 4-5K RPM. The mixture was homogenized at 8K RPM for 1 min, then the mixing rate was returned to 4-5K RPM. The remaining ingredients for phase B were added and mixed uniformly at 4-5K RPM.
3. The wetting agent was added while the mixture was dispersing at 4-5K RPM. The mixing rate was changed to 6-8K RPM, then zinc oxide particles followed by titanium dioxide particles were added and the mixture was homogenized uniformly at 8K RPM for 1 min.
4. Phase D was prepared separately in 2 parts: (a) silymarin was dissolved in a glycerin mix well using a propeller mixer at 500 to 700 RPM, then the remaining ingredients of Phase D except water, astabio, and zemea, were added, (b) astabio was dissolved in water, then zemea was added; and the resulting product was mixed well using a propeller mixer at 500-700 RPM until uniform.
5. Both mixtures for Phase D, and mixed using a propeller mixer, mix at 500-700 RPM for 10-15 min to mix well. All ingredients for Phase D were mixed separately from Phases A, B, and C in another container.
6. The mixed Phase D was added to the previously prepared mixture of Phases A, B and C to form a final mixture, which was homogenized at 8K RPM for 1 min. The homogenized final mixture was cooled down and degassed using a vacuum pump.
FIG. 1A-B shows photographs of the composition of Table 1 before (A) and (B) after shaking. The shaking makes the composition more uniform. Figure 1A shows that before shaking, the emulsion separates, while Figure IB shows that after shaking the emulsion is uniformly homogenous. The composition of Table 1 is a shake well product (mix & shake).
FIG. 2 is a Table which provides ingredients for a number for cosmetic compositions. The ingredients include zinc oxide with different surface treatments, a Bentone thickener, and oil sensory modifiers. Figure 2 provides various compositions with a number of variations, such as modifications of mass % of existing raw material based on Table 1 and/or additional materials added. Total Oil phase in the Table of Figure 2 is composed of phases A, B, and C. Exemplary ingredients for phases of composition in the Table of Figure 2 are presented below.
Phase A (Oil Phase):
- Permethyl 99 A, Cetiol Ultimate, Squalane, RA-G 308, are nonpolar emollient oils, and therefore treated as “oil”
-Jojoba Oil: External phase is Jojoba oil and is also considered to be a polar oil for oil phase. Treated as “oil”
- Softisan 649 - Film former of oil phase
- DL-alpha tocopherol, ESP organic green tea oil, virgin raspberry oil, All-Q Coenzyme Q10 plus, and Vitamin E Acetate are all considered oil active ingredients.
- Sy-Glyster CRS75 is a W/O emulsifier and dispersant for oil phase
Phase B (Oil Phase):
-Bentone Gel TNV: suspending agent/thickener for oil phase
-Celluflo C-25: Sensory modifier for oil phase
-Mica ST(FE): Sensory modifier for oil phase
-Unipure Red LLC: Red pigment used for oil phase Phase C (Oil Phase)
-Salacos P8: wetting agent/emollient used for dispersing pigment for oil phase. Treated as “oil”
-Super Zinc Sheer Natural: non-nano hydrophobic treated zinc oxide UV scattering filter to provide high degree of broad-spectrum sun protection and low degree of white casting on the skin.
-ST485SA: nano hydrophobic treated titanium dioxide UV scattering filter to provide high SPF and low degree of white casting on the skin.
Phase D (Water Phase)
-Deionized Water: Internal phase is water
-Glycerin: Humectant for water phase
-Phenoxetol: Preservative for water phase
-Zemea: Preservative Booster for water phase
-Astaplankton G8, Silymarin, Astabio API, and Viniderm: additional ingredients: water active extract ingredients for water phase
FIG. 3 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples. Mineral sunscreen samples were analyzed for properties of Whiteness Index (Hunter Lab) by XRite Spectrophotometer and in vitro UVB absorbance using Hitachi Spectrophotometer. Samples #1 -#14, #19-#20 give higher in vitro UVB absorbance and lower whiteness index as compared to the Comparative samples #2-#7. Sample #1-14, and #19-#20 provide lower whiteness index than Comparative #l-#7, Sample #15-#l 8 has higher in vitro UVB absorbance than Comparative #1. Based on the data in Figure 3, adding more ZnO and TiCh mass % increases Whiteness Index (white cast on skin) and in vitro UVB Absorbance (sun protection factor). FIG. 4 is a plot showing bulk viscosity versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples. Mineral Sunscreen samples were analyzed for properties of bulk viscosity by Brookfield viscometer and Invitro UVB absorbance using Hitachi Spectrophotometer. Majority of sunscreen samples showed viscosity values of less than -5000 cps compared to comparative sample #2, #3, and #4 to confirm easy spreading/light feeling on skin with higher SPF value.
FIG. 5 is a plot showing in vitro absorbance (sun protection factor (SPF)) measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer versus in vitro UVB absorbance measured by Hitachi spectrophotometer for a number of samples. The samples were analyzed for in vitro SPF value and invitro UVB absorbance using Hitachi vs. Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer. An approximately linear correlation between the two instruments used for measuring sun protection (290-320 nm) was observed. The Labsphere has a pre-built algorithm that calculates the in vitro SPF (sun protection factor from UVB radiation from 290 nm - 320 nm) and in vitro UVA protection factor (the protection from UVA radiation from 320 nm - 400 nm). Plastic PMMA HD6 substrates with a specific amount of sunscreen dosage are applied from each sample prototype & competitor benchmark. UV radiation is then applied onto the substrates with the applied dosage of each sunscreen sample in order to measure and mimic the real-life scenario of sunburning on the human skin. UVB absorbance is another indicator to measure the SPF value of a sunscreen from either the Labsphere or Hitachi spectrophotometer. Higher UVB absorbance produces higher sun protection and vice versa.
FIG. 6 is a plot showing Hunter whiteness index versus in vitro UVA protection factor (PF) rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer for a number of samples. The samples were analyzed for bulk whiteness index (Hunter Lab) by Xrite Spectrophotometer and in vitro UVA Protection Factor by Labsphere UV2000s. Samples #1 -#14, #19-#20 showed a lower whiteness index (less white cast on skin) than all comparative samples. Samples #16-#18 have higher whiteness index (whiter cast on skin) and higher UVA PF (more UVA protection) than all comparative samples. FIG. 7 is a plot showing UVA PF Rating measured by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer) versus in-vitro UVB Absorbance measured by Hitachi Spectrophotometer. Mineral sunscreen samples were analyzed for in vitro UVB absorbance (sun protection factor) and UVA PF Rating (UVA protection factor) using Hitachi and Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer. A higher UVA PF rating and higher in vitro UVB absorbance gives more broad-spectrum sun protection. Samples #1-#11, and #13-#20 show higher broad-spectrum protection than Comparative Samples #2-#7.
FIG. 8 is a plot showing UVA PF Rating versus In vitro SPF measured Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer. Mineral sunscreen samples were analyzed for properties of UVA PF Rating and invitro SPF value by Labsphere UV2000s spectrophotometer. Higher SPF and higher invitro UVA PF rating gives higher broad-spectrum sun protection All Samples give more broadspectrum protection than Comparative samples #2-#7.
FIG. 9A-B presents various sunscreen compositions and results of their tests. The data in Figure 9A-B shows various sunscreen compositions with different ZnO raw materials with supporting data of initial viscosity, in vitro UVB Absorbance vs. other products on market.
* * *
Although the foregoing refers to preferred embodiments, it will be understood that the present disclosure is not so limited. It will occur to those of ordinary skill in the art that various modifications may be made to the disclosed embodiments and that such modifications are intended to be within the scope of the present invention.
All of the publications, patent applications and patents cited in this specification are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:
1. A cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) a hectorite thickener;
(c) a cellulose; and
(d) one or more ultraviolet scattering powders selected from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof, wherein at least some particles of said one or more ultraviolet scattering powders are treated with poly[Cs-C2o hydroxy carboxy lie acid], an amount of the at least one oil in the composition is no more than 50 mass %, and an amount of water in the composition is no more than 30 mass %.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of water in the composition is not more than 5 mass %.
3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is an anhydrous composition.
4. The cosmetic composition of any of one of preceding claims, wherein the at least one oil comprises at least one plant-based oil.
5. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the at least one plant oil comprises jojoba oil.
6. The cosmetic composition of claim 4 or 5, wherein at amount of the at least one plantbased oil in the composition is from 5 mass % to 25 mass %.
7. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the at least one oil comprises at least one non-polar oil.
8. The cosmetic composition of claim 7, wherein the at least one non-polar oil comprises squalane.
9. The cosmetic composition of claim 8, wherein an amount of squalane in the composition is from 5 mass % to 15 mass%.
10. The cosmetic composition of claim 7, wherein the at least non-polar oil comprises isododecane.
11. The cosmetic composition of claim 10, wherein an amount of isododecane in the composition is from 1 mass % to 3.5 mass %.
12. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 7-11, wherein an amount of the at least one non-polar oil in the composition is 1 mass % to 18 mass %.
13. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the at least one oil comprises at least one emollient.
14. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein the at least one emollient comprises triethylhexanoin.
15. The cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein an amount of triethylhexanoin in the composition is from 4 mass % to 7 mass %.
16. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein the at least one emollient comprises bisglyceryl polyacryladipate-2.
17. The cosmetic composition of claim 16, wherein an amount of bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 in the composition is from 2 mass % to 4 mass %.
18. The cosmetic composition of any one or preceding claims, wherein the at least one oil comprises at least one emulsifier.
19. The cosmetic composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one emulsifier comprises at least one polyglyceryl emulsifier.
20. The cosmetic composition of claim 19, wherein the at least one polyglyceryl emulsifier comprises polyglyceryl-6 polyrinocinoleate.
21. The cosmetic composition of claims 19 or 20, wherein an amount of the at least polyglyceryl emulsifier in the composition is from 4 mass % to 6 mass %.
22. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the at least one oil comprises jojoba oil, squalane, isododecane, triethylhexanoin, bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 and polyglyceryl-6 polyrinocinoleate.
23. The cosmetic composition of claim 22, wherein at amount of the jojoba oil in the composition is from 5 mass % to 25 mass %, an amount of squalane in the composition is from 5 mass % to 15 mass%, an amount of isododecane in the composition is from 1 mass % to 3.5 mass %, an amount of triethylhexanoin in the composition is from 4 mass % to 7 mass %, an amount of bis-glyceryl polyacryladipate-2 in the composition is from 2 mass % to 4 mass %. and an amount of polyglyceryl-6 polyrinocinoleate in the composition is from 4 mass % to 6 mass %.
24. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the hectorite oil thickener is selected from Disteardimonium Hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorite and mixtures thereof.
25. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the hectorite oil thickener comprises Stearalkonium Hectorite.
26. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein an amount of the hectorite oil thickener in the composition is from 0.2 mass % to 6 mass %.
27. The cosmetic composition of any one preceding claims, wherein the cellulose is a hydrophilic cellulose.
28. The cosmetic composition of claim 24, wherein the cellulose is a hydrophilic spherical cellulose.
29. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein an amount of the cellulose in the composition is from 0.5 mass % to 2.5 mass %.
30. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the poly[Cs-C2o hydroxy carboxylic acid] is polyhydroxystearic acid.
31. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the one or more ultraviolet scattering powders comprise ZnO particle treated with poly[Cs-C2o hydroxy carboxylic acid] having an average particle size from 100 nm to 500 nm.
32. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the one or more ultraviolet scattering powders comprise TiCh treated with polyfCs-Cbo hydroxycarboxylic acid] have an average particle size from 5 nm to 500 nm.
33. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein an amount of the one or more ultraviolet scattering powders is from 15 mass % to 60 mass %.
34. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein an amount of the particles treated with poly[Cs-C2o hydroxycarboxylic acid] in the composition is from 15 mass % to 40 mass %.
35. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the one or more ultraviolet scattering powder comprises one or more hydrophobically treated titanium oxide powder.
36. The cosmetic composition of claim 35, wherein an amount of the one or more hydrophobically treated titanium oxide powder in the composition is from 5 mass % to 15 mass %.
37. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, comprising 30 mass % to 50 mass % of the at least one oil; 0.1 mass % to 5 mass % of the hectorite oil thickener; 1.0 mass % to 2.0 mass % of hydrophilic cellulose; and 20 mass % to 40 mass % of ultraviolet scattering particles, including a zinc oxide powder treated with polyhydroxystearic acid and having an average particle size from 100 nm to 500 nm, and a hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide powder.
38. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, wherein the composition is a broad spectrum sun protection composition.
39. A cosmetic method comprising applying the cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims to a keratinous surface of a subject.
40. The cosmetic method of claim 39, wherein said applying provides broad spectrum sun protection of the keratinous surface.
PCT/IB2024/061882 2023-11-29 2024-11-26 Cosmetic compositions, including sunscreen compositions, and related methods Pending WO2025114898A1 (en)

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