WO2025102195A1

WO2025102195A1 - Composition for caring for keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2025102195A1
Application number: PCT/CN2023/131219
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yue Wang; Xiaomin WENG
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-11-13
Filing date: 2023-11-13
Publication date: 2025-05-22
Anticipated expiration: 2026-05-13
Also published as: FR3155138A3; FR3155138B3

Abstract

Provided herein is a composition, preferably for caring for keratin materials comprising: (i) at least one first surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters, and a combination thereof; and (ii) at least 0.4 wt. % of at least one second surfactant with HLB greater than 10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid. Further provided is a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying said composition to the keratin materials.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.

BACKGROUND ART

Consumers around the world are looking for novel cosmetic products for improving the appearance of keratin materials and especially the skin, in particular providing the skin with an optical cosmetic effect, such as smoothness and good radiance.

Cosmetic products being able to bring skin the optical effects as mentioned above are known, for example, antiaging water in the cosmetic industry, which is a technology combined permeation system and soft peeling engine to meet consumer needs of radiance and smoothness.

However, some products for providing the skin radiance and smoothness are still not satisfying. For example, some products are not stable.

It is desired that such cosmetic compositions are stable.

Thus, there is still a need to formulate a composition for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin, which can provide the keratin materials, especially the skin, radiance and smoothness and is stable.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the present invention to develop a composition for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin, which can provide the keratin materials, especially the skin, radiance and smoothness and is stable.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a non-therapeutic method for caring for the keratin materials, especially the skin, with above composition.

The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate a composition for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin, which can provide the keratin materials, especially the skin, radiance and smoothness and is stable.

Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for caring for keratin materials comprising:

(i) at least one first surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters, and a combination thereof; and

(ii) at least 0.4 wt. %of at least one second surfactant with HLB>10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

(iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid.

The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can be used to care for the keratin materials, in particular, to provide the keratin materials radiance and smoothness.

The inventors have further found that the composition according to the present invention is stable.

In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is transparent.

As used herein, the term “transparent” means the turbidity of the composition is less than 10 NTU.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.

Other advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... ".

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lip. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

The composition according to the present invention comprises:

(iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid or salt thereof.

First surfactants

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one first surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters, and a combination thereof.

Fatty acid esters of polyglycerol

Preferably, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol (also known as polyglycerol fatty acid ester, PGFE) is selected from compounds of formula (I) ,

wherein:

R represents a linear or branched C₅-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl;

n is an integer ranging from 2 to 30.

Preferably, for the purpose of the present invention, in the formula (I) ,

R represents a linear or branched C₈-C₂₈ alkyl or alkenyl, preferably a linear or branched C₁₀-C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl;

n is an integer ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 4 to 10.

Examples of suitable PGFE surfactants are Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dimyristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, or Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, and Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate.

Particularly, the fatty acid esters of polyglycerol suitable for the present invention are compounds selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-5 laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, or a combination thereof.

More particularly, the fatty acid esters of polyglycerol are selected from polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and a combination thereof.

These compounds are commercially available. For example, mentions can be made to the compounds sold by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the trade names: Sunsoft A-12E or Sunsoft A-121E-C (Polyglyceryl-5 laurate) , Sunsoft A-14E (Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate) , Sunsoft Q-17F (polyglyceryl-6 oleate) , Sunsoft A-17E (Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate) , Sunsoft A-18E (Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate) , Sunsoft Q-10Y (Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate) , Sunsoft Q-12Y (Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate) , Sunsoft Q-14S (Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate) , Sunsoft Q-18Y (Polyglyceryl-10 stearate) , by the company Nikkol under the trade name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-OV (Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate) , by the company Lonza under the trade name Polyaldo HGDS KFG (6-2-S) (polyglyceryl-6 distearate) .

In some particular preferred embodiments, Polyglyceryl-5 laurate is used in the composition of the present invention.

If presents, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters

As used herein, a polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid ester is an ester of a polyol and at least one fatty acid wherein the ester has at least one polyoxyalkylene moiety.

The polyoxyalkylene moiety may comprise oxyethylene units, oxypropylene units, oxybutylene units and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the polyoxyalkylene moiety comprise oxyethylene units, more preferably 5 or more oxyethylene groups, and even more preferably 7 or more oxyethylene groups. It is also preferable that the polyoxyalkylene moiety comprise no oxypropylene or oxybutylene unit. Thus, the polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid ester may preferably be polyoxyethylenated polyol fatty acid ester.

The term “polyol” here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

Preferably, the polyol is a C₂-C₁₂ polyol, more preferably a C₂-C₉ polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 6 hydroxy groups.

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol may be selected from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, 1, 3-propanediol, and 1, 5-pentanediol.

It is preferable that the polyol be glycerin.

The fatty acid may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

Preferably, the fatty acid is selected from saturated C₈-C₂₈ fatty acids, preferably C₈-C₂₂ fatty acids, and more preferably C₁₀-C₂₂ fatty acids. As examples of the saturated C₈-C₂₈ fatty acids, mention may be made of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, as well as structural isomers thereof.

Examples of the polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid ester include, but are not limited to oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of polyols comprising at least 5 oxyethylene groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylene groups, in particular oxyethylenated esters of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and of glycerol, for instance PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid ester may be selected from POE(polyoxyethylenated) glyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably from the group consisting of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl tri-isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, and combinations thereof.

In some particular preferred embodiments, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is used in the composition of the present invention.

If presents, the polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid ester is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the first surfactant is selected from polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid, preferably selected from polyoxyalkylenated C2-C9 polyol C8-C28 fatty acid esters, more preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl C10-C22 fatty acid esters, more preferably selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl tri-isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, and combinations thereof.

Advantageously, the first surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Second surfactants

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 0.4 wt. %of at least one second surfactant with HLB>10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As used herein, HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the surfactant molecule. This term is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB system, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” , published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984. The HLB of the surfactant (s) used according to the invention may be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.

Preferably, the second surfactant is selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl glucosides, and glycolipids.

Alkoxylated fatty alcohols

Alkoxylated fatty alcohols, which are ethers formed from the reaction of a fatty alcohol with an alkylene oxide, generally ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide, e.g., ethoxylated fatty alcohols which are adducts of fatty alcohols and polyethylene oxide.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, ethoxylated/propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, preferably ethoxylated/propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols, more preferably ethoxylated/propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1-50 ethylene oxide units and 1-50 propylene oxide units.

Specific examples of ethoxylated/propoxylated fatty alcohols that may be suitable for use in the present invention include PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteth-1, PPG-1-Ceteth-5, PPG-1-Ceteth-10, PPG-1-Ceteth-20, PPG-2-Ceteth-1, PPG-2-Ceteth-5, PPG-2-Ceteth-10, PPG-2-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5, PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-6 C9-11 Pareth-5, PPG-6 C12-15 Pareth-12, PPG-6 C12- 18 Pareth-11, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-1-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-12, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-20-Decyltetradeceth-10, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-8, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9, PPG-2-Isodeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-2-Isodeceth-18, PPG-2-Isodeceth-25, PPG-4-Isodeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4 Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-20-PEG-20 Hydrogenated Lanolin, PPG-2-PEG-11 Hydrogenated Lauryl Alcohol Ether, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-65 Lanolin Oil, PPG-40-PEG-60 Lanolin Oil, PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, PPG-3-PEG-6 Oleyl Ether, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 Trideceth-6, PPG-4 Trideceth-6, and PPG-6 Trideceth-8.

More preferably, the second surfactant is selected from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteth-1, PPG-1-Ceteth-5, PPG-1-Ceteth-10, PPG-1-Ceteth-20, PPG-2-Ceteth-1, PPG-2-Ceteth-5, PPG-2-Ceteth-10, PPG-2-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5, PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-1-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-12, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-20-Decyltetradeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-8, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9, PPG-2-Isodeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-2-Isodeceth-18, PPG-2-Isodeceth-25, PPG-4-Isodeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4 Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 Trideceth-6, PPG-4 Trideceth-6, PPG-26-Buteth-26, and PPG-6 Trideceth-8.

In some particular preferred embodiments, PPG-5-Ceteth-20 is used in the composition of the present invention.

If presents, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkyl glycoside

The alkyl glycoside is a compound of formula (A)
R₁-O- (R₂Q) _t- (G) _v (A)

in which R₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R₂represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

Preferably, the alkyl glycoside is C8-C24 alkyl glycoside.

More preferably, the alkyl glycoside is C8-C22 alkyl glycoside.

Even more preferably, the alkyl glycoside is lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and a combination thereof.

If presents, the alkyl glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4 wt. %to 2.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Glycolipids

Preferably, the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, glucolipids, and mixtures thereof.

Rhamnolipids can be represented by general formula (I) :

where

a is 1 or 2,

b is 1 or 2,

n is 4 to 10, preferably 6,

R¹ is H or a cation, preferably H, or a monovalent solubilizing cation,

R² is H or the group

preferably H,

m is 4 to 10, and

the values of m and n need not be the same at each occurrence.

Glucolipids can be represented by general formula (II) :

where

R¹ is H or a cation,

p is 1 to 4; and

q is 4 to 10, preferably 6.

If presents, the glycolipid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4 wt. %to 2.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, C8-24 alkyl glycoside, and a combination thereof; preferably selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1-50 ethylene oxide units and 1-50 propylene oxide units, C8-22 alkyl glycoside, and a combination thereof; more preferably selected from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteth-1, PPG-1-Ceteth-5, PPG-1-Ceteth-10, PPG-1-Ceteth-20, PPG-2-Ceteth-1, PPG-2-Ceteth-5, PPG-2-Ceteth-10, PPG-2-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5, PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-1-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-12, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-20-Decyltetradeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-8, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9, PPG-2-Isodeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-2-Isodeceth-18, PPG-2-Isodeceth-25, PPG-4-Isodeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4 Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 Trideceth-6, PPG-4 Trideceth-6, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-6 Trideceth-8, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and a combination thereof.

More preferably, the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols; preferably selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1-50 ethylene oxide units and 1-50 propylene oxide units; more preferably selected from PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-26-Buteth-26, and a combination thereof.

Advantageously, the second surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant ranges from 0.4 to 2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5.

Polyhydroxy acids

According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyhydroxy acid.

The term “polyhydroxy acid” here means an organic compound which has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and one carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.

The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid be selected from sugar acids.

Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include, dihydroxy propanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxy butanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxy pentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxy hexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, and talonic acid; hexahydroxy heptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the polyhydroxy acid is in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone may be saturated. Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is selected from lactones with 2-6 hydroxyl groups.

Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is selected from lactones with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and 3-8 carbon atoms.

It is more preferable that the polyhydroxy acid be gluconolactone, which has the following structure.

Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

Said aqueous phase comprises water.

Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 80 wt. %to 94 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25℃) selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydration effect.

If presents, the organic solvent miscible with water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.

As examples of cosmetic active ingredient, mention can be made of moisturizing agents; vitamins and derivatives thereof; tightening agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, additional peeling agents, and mixtures thereof.

It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, other surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

The skilled in the art can select the nature and amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.2 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of at least one first surfactant selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl tri-isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, combinations thereof;

(ii) from 0.4 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of at least one second surfactant selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1-50 ethylene oxide units and 1-50 propylene oxide units; and

(ii) from 1.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of gluconolactone.

Galenic form and method

In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention can be in the form of a homogeneous hydrous system.

The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin.

According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to keratin materials, especially the skin.

EXAMPLES

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention Examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3

Compositions of invention examples (IE) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE) 1-3 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in%by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 2

Compositions of invention examples 1-3 are compositions according to the present invention.

Composition of comparative example 1-3 does not comprise at least 0.4 wt. %of at least one second surfactant with HLB>10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation process:

The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example:

1) mixing PPG-5-ceteth-20, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, gluconolactone, lactic acid, salicylic acid and pentylene glycol in water,

2) neutralizing with sodium hydroxide and stirring well until a uniform composition.

Evaluation

Turbidity

Whether a composition is transparent or not is determined by the turbidity thereof as determined with a turbidimeter (Model: HACH 2100AN) .

When the turbidity of a composition is not more than 10 NTU, the composition is classified as transparent.

Stability

The stability of a composition to be tested was evaluated as follows:

The composition was contained in a cosmetic bottle, then put into an over at 45℃for 2 months.

Then whether there is phase separation was checked.

If there is no phase separation during the test, then the composition is considered stable.

If there is phase separation during the test, then the composition is considered instable.

The transparency and stability of compositions of invention examples (IE) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE) 1-3 were summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

It can be seen that the composition of the present invention is stable.

Through a consumer test, it was also found that the composition of the present invention can provide the skin radiance and smoothness.

Claims

A composition, preferably for caring for keratin materials comprising:

(i) at least one first surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters, and a combination thereof; and

(ii) at least 0.4 wt. %of at least one second surfactant with HLB>10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

(iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the first surfactant is selected from polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters, preferably selected from polyoxyalkylenated C2-C9 polyol C8-C28 fatty acid esters, more preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl C10-C22 fatty acid esters, even more preferably selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl tri-isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, and combinations thereof.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the second surfactant is selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohol, alkyl glycoside, glycolipid, and a combination thereof, preferably the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, C8-24 alkyl glycoside, and a combination thereof; more preferably the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1-50 ethylene oxide units and 1-50 propylene oxide units, C8-22 alkyl glycoside, and a combination thereof; more preferably selected from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteth-1, PPG-1-Ceteth-5, PPG-1-Ceteth-10, PPG-1-Ceteth-20, PPG-2-Ceteth-1, PPG-2-Ceteth-5, PPG-2-Ceteth-10, PPG-2-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5, PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-1-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-12, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-20-Decyltetradeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-8, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9, PPG- 2-Isodeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-2-Isodeceth-18, PPG-2-Isodeceth-25, PPG-4-Isodeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4 Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 Trideceth-6, PPG-4 Trideceth-6, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-6 Trideceth-8, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and a combination thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols; preferably selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1-50 ethylene oxide units and 1-50 propylene oxide units; more preferably selected from PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-26-Buteth-26, and a combination thereof.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the second surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant ranges from 0.4 to 2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the polyhydroxy acid is selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids, preferably selected from lactones with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and 3-8 carbon atoms, more preferably the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the polyhydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 80 wt. %to 94 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition comprises an organic solvent miscible with water in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to claim 1, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.2 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of at least one first surfactant selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl tri-isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, combinations thereof;

(ii) from 0.4 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of at least one second surfactant selected from ethoxylated/propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1-50 ethylene oxide units and 1-50 propylene oxide units; and

(ii) from 1.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of gluconolactone.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is in the form of a homogeneous hydrous system.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition is transparent.
A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1 to 14 to the keratin materials.