WO2025199595A1 - Cosmetic sunscreen composition and use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition - Google Patents
Cosmetic sunscreen composition and use of the cosmetic sunscreen compositionInfo
- Publication number
- WO2025199595A1 WO2025199595A1 PCT/BR2024/050123 BR2024050123W WO2025199595A1 WO 2025199595 A1 WO2025199595 A1 WO 2025199595A1 BR 2024050123 W BR2024050123 W BR 2024050123W WO 2025199595 A1 WO2025199595 A1 WO 2025199595A1
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/496—Triazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzotriazoles
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
- A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
Definitions
- the present invention is directed to a cosmetic sunscreen composition
- a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one water-phase organic filter, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer.
- the present invention is also related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
- UVA/UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
- UV light Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes damage, such as sunburn, to the skin.
- UV light having a wavelength of from about 290 nm to about 400 nm, longterm damage can lead to serious conditions, such as skin cancer.
- UV light also contributes to aging by causing free radicals to form in the skin.
- Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radical, the superoxide anion, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids and proteins, generating carbon radicals. These in turn react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical that can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals.
- This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in loss of cell permeability, increased intercellular ionic concentration, and decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste products. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photo-aging.
- the inventors of the present invention have overcome the drawbacks of the state of the art and surprisingly achieved a cosmetic sunscreen composition presenting the desired properties mentioned above comprising: (a) at least one alcohol ester, (b) at least one organic UV filter, (c) at least one water-phase organic filter; and (d) at least one anionic copolymer.
- the present invention is directed to a cosmetic sunscreen composition
- a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one water-phase organic filter, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer.
- the present invention is also related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
- the sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
- the at least one ester is present in the range of from about 0,1 % to about 10.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of from about 1 .5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one alcohol ester is present in the range of from about 0,1 % to about 10.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of from about 1 .5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one organic UV filter is present in the range of from about 5.0% to about 20.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of from about 0.2 % to about 2.4%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention presents a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 and preferably 40.
- SPF Sun Protection Factor
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives compounds, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, buffering, masking, and mixtures thereof.
- the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention does not comprise organic filters selected from octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.
- the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may comprise pigment(s).
- the sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
- the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols, and polyols such as glycerin, water, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
- the organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV- A and/or UV-B region.
- the organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
- the organic UV filter may be solid or liquid.
- solid and liquid mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
- the organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; (3, [3-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic
- Anthranilic compounds Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer.
- Dibenzoylmethane compounds isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
- Cinnamic compounds Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl- 4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
- Salicylic compounds glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.
- Benzalmalonate compounds Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX” by Hoffmann-LaRoche.
- Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.
- Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds such as 2,2'- methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
- Anionic copolymers may be polymers with anionic groups distributed along the polymer backbone.
- Anionic groups which may include carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate, nitrate, or other negatively charged or ionizable groupings, may be disposed upon groups pendant from the backbone or may be incorporated in the backbone itself.
- the copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:
- crosslinked polymers may be chosen according to further exemplary embodiments.
- such polymers may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
- R2 is chosen from H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
- Anionic copolymers useful herein include, for example: polyacrylic acid; polymethacrylic acid; parboxyvinylpolymer; acrylate copolymers such as pcrylate/Cw- 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylic acid/vinyl ester copolymer/acrylatesninyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, and acrylate/celeth-20 itaconate copolymer; sulfonate polymers such as polysulfonic acid, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid, and copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid; carboxymethycellulose; carboxy guar gum; copolymers of ethylene and male
- the anionic copolymers include, for example, Carbomer and CARBOPOL 980; sodium carboxymethylcellulose such as CMC series; and acrylate copolymer such Capigel; acrylates copolymer such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 as an aqueous dispersion, and acrylates crosspolymer-4 such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 as an aqueous dispersion.
- hydroxyethylcellulose for instance the product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC or NATROSOL 250 HHR CS;
- alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether); or
- hydroxypropyl guars such as hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain).
- the volunteers phototype were dark phototype for white cast analysis.
- the skin types were all types (dry, combination and oily).
- the performed comparison protocol was:
- the performed comparison protocol was:
- a sensorial test was carried out with six volunteers (Phototype l-V) with mixed to oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (inventive example 4) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Prior art Example 9).
- the volunteers phototype were dark phototype for white cast analysis.
- composition according to the present invention presents had a similar sensorially, but it was a little faster absorption in the present invention, the formulas was a slightly differences on texture, application and lasting, which the formula 940645 4 had more thick, smooth and shine than the invention.
- the tested sample(s) were applied, in an amount of approximately 1.3mg/cm2, spreading it manually with the tip of a pre-saturated finger, without using it. finger, until a visually uniform film is obtained.
- the product's FPS showed a level of spectral photostability of 79.1 %, therefore, it can be considered moderately photostable in relation to the FPS.
- the product's FP-LIVA showed a level of spectral photostability of
- the sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by any conventional method for manufacturing a composition in the form of an emulsion.
- the sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the steps of:
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Abstract
The present invention is directed to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one water-phase organic filter, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer. The present invention is also related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
Description
COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one water-phase organic filter, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer. The present invention is also related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The photoprotection of keratinous materials, including both skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are typically two types of UVA/UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
Consumers are concerned with the negative effects of the sun exposition, particularly the hazardous effects of exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) light. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes damage, such as sunburn, to the skin. When skin is exposed to UV light having a wavelength of from about 290 nm to about 400 nm, longterm damage can lead to serious conditions, such as skin cancer. UV light also contributes to aging by causing free radicals to form in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radical, the superoxide anion, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids and proteins, generating carbon radicals. These in turn react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical that can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in loss of cell permeability, increased intercellular ionic concentration, and decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste products. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photo-aging.
In this sense, in a skin care regimen, consumers apply cosmetic sunscreen compositions to protect the skin and the sensation of the product on the skin is very important.
Consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic sunscreen products
that fit into their photoprotection routing to protect the skin from the damages caused by the sun.
Moreover, consumers are also looking for cosmetic sunscreen products that comprise green technology (green ingredients) and do not negative impact the environment.
Regarding the degree of UV protection of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, it is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB). It is a challenge to obtain a stable sunscreen cosmetic composition with high amounts of fillers and UV filters.
Fillers, such as silica, silica silylate, among others, are known in the cosmetic industry to provide anti-oil and anti-acne effects in sunscreen compositions. The maximum concentration of fillers in sunscreen compositions, however, is limited, as the high hydrophobic properties make the composition unstable upon application of high concentrations.
There is a need for stable sunscreen cosmetic compositions that have higher concentrations of fillers, in order to increase their anti-oil and anti-acne effects, and UV filters. The challenge of incorporating high concentrations of fillers and UV filters into sunscreen cosmetic compositions is not only limited by their hydrophobic nature, but there is also the challenge of formulating stable compositions while preserving satisfactory product properties, such as spreadability, high SPF and dry touch to the skin after application.
Particularly, sunscreen cosmetic compositions must provide protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, not greasy feel upon application.
In this sense, there is a need to develop new cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising green ingredients that do not negative impact the environment, having high stability, good sensory properties (like dry touch and matte effect), good solubility of the ingredients, good absorption and spreadability, water resistance and delivering SPF and IR-A protection.
Particularly, it is also a challenge replacing the usual UV filters by green UV filters, so maintaining the sensorial features. When making such replacement, it is common to lose some sensory properties of the cosmetic sunscreen composition like dry touch, matter effect, stability, spreadability and absorption.
Thus, the inventors of the present invention have overcome the drawbacks of the state of the art and surprisingly achieved a cosmetic sunscreen composition presenting the desired properties mentioned above comprising: (a) at least one alcohol ester, (b) at least one organic UV filter, (c) at least one water-phase organic filter; and (d) at least one anionic copolymer.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one water-phase organic filter, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer. The present invention is also related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In a preferred embodiment, the sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, Isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, coco Caprylate I Coco Caprylate/Caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate/caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof;
(c) at least one organic UV filter selected from bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof;
(d) at least one water-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof; and
(e) at least one anionic copolymer selected from acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one ester is present in the range
of from about 0,1 % to about 10.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of from about 1 .5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alcohol ester is present in the range of from about 0,1 % to about 10.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of from about 1 .5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic UV filter is present in the range of from about 5.0% to about 20.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of from about 0.2 % to about 2.4%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the at least one water-phase organic filter is present in the range from about 0.01 % to about 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of from about 0.0 % to about 4.0 %, most preferably in an amount of from about 0.0% to about 3.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one anionic copolymer is present in the range of from about 0.1 % to about 10.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention presents a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 and preferably 40.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives compounds, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, buffering, masking, and mixtures thereof.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion and can be used as sunscreen daily product.
In another embodiment the present invention is related to the use of a product as sunscreen daily product.
The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is absent
of inorganic filters.
The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention does not comprise organic filters selected from octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.
The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may comprise pigment(s).
The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention does not comprise physical filters and the preservative phenoxyethanol.
TERMS
The sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
The terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.
All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
SOLVENTS
In addition to the essential alcohol esters used in the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention, suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols, and polyols such as glycerin, water, caprylyl glycol, pentylene
glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
ORGANIC UV FILTERS
In addition to the essential organic UV filters of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise additional organic UV filter(s).
Water-phase organic filter
The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at least one water-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and methylene bis- benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
Additional Organic UV Filters
The composition, according to the present invention, may optionally comprise at least one additional UV filter selected from organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
The organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV- A and/or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
The organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; (3, [3-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made, as examples of the organic UV filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic
compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl- 4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Salicylic compounds: glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer. Camphor compounds, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex. Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "llvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "llvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "llvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the trademark "llvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the trademark "llvinul DS-49" by BASF; and benzophenone- 12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINIIL A+ by BASF). [3,[3-Diphenylacrylate compounds: Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "llvinul N35" by BASF. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-
6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p- aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF. Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'- methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100" by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26, 184, and EP- 893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or- "Mexoryl XL" by L'Oreal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5- l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]- 6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the trademark of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. Screening polymers and screening silicones: The silicones described in WO 93/04665. Dimers derived from a- alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE-19855649. 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
It is in some embodiments desirable that the organic UV filter(s) be selected from the group consisting of: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4- piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium
phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6- tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)- s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate)-6- [(3 - { 1 ,3 ,3 ,3 -tetramethyl- 1 - [(trimethylsilyloxy] - disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis- benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, I, l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4- diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2- ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
ANIONIC COPOLYMER
In addition to the essential anionic copolymers of the present invention, suitable additional anionic copolymers can be used.
Anionic copolymers may be polymers with anionic groups distributed along the polymer backbone. Anionic groups, which may include carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate, nitrate, or other negatively charged or ionizable groupings, may be disposed upon groups pendant from the backbone or may be incorporated in the backbone itself.
In a preferred embodiment, anionic copolymers are selected from acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurateA/P copolymer.
The anionic copolymers may comprise at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C -C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
In certain exemplary and non-limiting embodiments, the copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:
(1 ) at least one monomer of formula (I):
CH2=CH(R1)COOH (Q wherein Ri is chosen from H or CH3 or C2H5, providing acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or ethacrylic acid monomers, and
(2) at least one monomer of (C -C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (II):
CH2=CH(R2)COOR3 00
Non-limiting examples of (Cio-C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are for example chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
Additionally, crosslinked polymers may be chosen according to further exemplary embodiments. For example, such polymers may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
(1 ) acrylic acid,
(2) an ester of formula (II) described above, in which R2 is chosen from H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
(3) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
Anionic copolymers useful herein include, for example: polyacrylic acid; polymethacrylic acid; parboxyvinylpolymer; acrylate copolymers such as pcrylate/Cw- 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylic acid/vinyl ester copolymer/acrylatesninyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, and acrylate/celeth-20 itaconate copolymer; sulfonate polymers such as polysulfonic acid, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid, and copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid; carboxymethycellulose; carboxy guar gum; copolymers of ethylene and maleic acid; and acrylate silicone polymer. In some instances, the anionic copolymers include, for example, Carbomer and CARBOPOL 980; sodium carboxymethylcellulose such as CMC series; and acrylate copolymer such Capigel; acrylates copolymer such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 as an aqueous dispersion, and acrylates crosspolymer-4 such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 as an aqueous dispersion.
In an embodiment, the anionic copolymer of the invention is carbomer such as CARBOPOL 980. Exemplary of non-ionic polymers could be as follows:
(i) hydroxyethylcellulose, for instance the product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC or NATROSOL 250 HHR CS;
(ii) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include:
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100; methyl hydroxyethylcellulose; methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, known as the product STRUCTURE CEL 8000 M; or hydroxypropyl cellulose, known as the product KLUCEL MF PHARM HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSE;
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether); or
(iii) hydroxypropyl guars such as hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain).
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, actives, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The additional ingredients may represent from 0.1 % to 50%, such as from 0.1 % to 30% or such as from 0.1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
EXAMPLES
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.
Example A
Suitable compositions according to the present invention are as Inventive Examples 1 to 15, as follows:
Table 1 - Compositions according to the present invention:
Example B Sensorial Test
A sensorial test was carried out with six volunteers (Caucasian and
African) with dry and oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (Example 2) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Prior art Example 7).
Inventive Example 2
Prior art Example 7
The Attributes evaluated were spreadability, absorption, dry touch, skin finish, white cast.
The volunteers phototype were dark phototype for white cast analysis.
The skin types were all types (dry, combination and oily).
The performed comparison protocol was:
1- Cleaning the face with cotton and micellar water;
2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;
3- Application of 0.30g on half face, each formula;
4- Lasting for 1 hour.
It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention presents in faster absorption, waxy texture, and exclusion, however formula 940645 4 is more slippery and with more marks and white film and dry touch. It’s important to mention these are slight differences between the formulas.
Example C
Sensorial Test
A sensorial test was carried out with six volunteers (Caucasian and African) with oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (inventive example 3) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Prior art Example 8).
Inventive Example 3
Prior art Example 8
The Attributes evaluated were spreadability, absorption, dry touch, skin finish, white cast.
The volunteers phototype were dark phototype for white cast analysis.
The performed comparison protocol was:
1- Cleaning the face with cotton and micellar water;
2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;
3- Application of 0.30g on half face, each formula;
4- Lasting for 1 hour.
It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention presents more slippery, easy application, shine and waxy texture and more homogeneous and even film and the current version had faster absorption, white marks, and film, accumulated in the expression lines and pores, powdery appearance and noodles was observed in all the volunteers during the application.
Example D Sensorial Test
A sensorial test was carried out with six volunteers (Phototype l-V) with mixed to oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (inventive example 4) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Prior art Example 9).
Inventive Example 4
Prior art Example 9
The Attributes evaluated were spreadability, absorption, dry touch, skin finish, white cast.
The volunteers phototype were dark phototype for white cast analysis.
The performed comparison protocol was:
1- Cleaning the face with cotton and micellar water;
2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;
3- Application of 0.30g on half face, each formula;
4- Lasting for 1 hour.
It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention presents had a similar sensorially, but it was a little faster absorption in the present invention, the formulas was a slightly differences on texture, application and lasting, which the formula 940645 4 had more thick, smooth and shine than the invention.
Example E
SPF Test
The objective of this test was to determine the spectral photostability (single dose of UV), in vitro UVA protection factor (SP-LIVA) and critical wavelength for the sample: 941502 1 SPF 30.
On four PMMA plates with a textured surface, the tested sample(s) were applied, in an amount of approximately 1.3mg/cm2, spreading it manually with the tip of a pre-saturated finger, without using it. finger, until a visually uniform film is obtained.
Weighing was carried out directly on the plate positioned on a scale, depositing the product in small quantities spread over the entire surface of the plate, totaling 25cm2 of application area.
The spreading was carried out in two stages: first the product was quickly spread with circular movements without pressure until the entire plate was filled with the product; The film was then homogenized, using straight movements and moderate pressure, until a uniform film was formed.
The sample plate was left to rest for at least 30 minutes away from light, inside a temperature-controlled drying chamber (between 27.0°C and 29.1 °C), to dry the product and to facilitate the formation of a homogeneous film.
It was concluded that:
• The in vitro UVA protection factor (FP-LIVA) of the test product is 10.2.
• The FP-LIVA of the test product is greater than 1/3 of the FPS
• The product's FPS showed a level of spectral photostability of 79.1 %, therefore, it can be considered moderately photostable in relation to the FPS. • The product's FP-LIVA showed a level of spectral photostability of
79.7%, therefore, it can be considered moderately photostable in relation to FP-LIVA.
• The critical wavelength is 377 nm.
Example F
Relation Between Fillers vs SPF The objective of this test was to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) follow the ISO 24444 methodology and understanding if the fillers can impact on the SPF results. The test follows with two inventive (examples 5 and 6) while the difference it is only in the rate of the fillers.
Inventive Example 5
Inventive Example 6
• For the inventive example 5, with the lowest concentration of fillers, the average SPF was 37.0 with the confidence interval (c) 5.5. Results in SPF 31.5.
• For the inventive example 6, with the highest concentration of fillers, the average SPF was 32.4 with the confidence interval (c) 7.1. Results in SPF 25.3.
It was concluded that the composition according to the present inventions that the change in fillers can bring different results in the SPF, which can be explained by the change in the formation of the film.
Example G
Process for Manufacturing the Cosmetic Sunscreen Composition
The sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by any conventional method for manufacturing a composition in the form of an emulsion.
Particularly, the sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the steps of:
(A): the oil phase comprising the oil raw materials, including (a) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and (c) an UV filter system is mixed, and heated up to 75°C;
(B): the aqueous phase comprising the aqueous raw materials is mixed until complete homogenization;
(C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oil phase of step (A), followed by mixing the mixture;
(D): the other ingredients are gradually added to the mixture obtained in
step (C) and mixed until homogeneity, at a temperature of below 30°C; and (E): adding the fillers.
Claims
1 . A cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:
(a) at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, Isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, coco Caprylate I Coco Caprylate/Caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate/caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof;
(c) at least one organic UV filter selected from bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof;
(d) at least one water-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof; and
(e) at least one anionic copolymer selected from acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
2. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one ester is present in the range of from 0,1 % to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one alcohol ester is present in the range of from 0,1 % to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one organic UV filter is present in the range of from 5.0% to 20.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one water-phase organic filter is present in the range of from 0.01 % to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one anionic copolymer is present in the range of from 0.1 % to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition of claim 1 , wherein it is absent of inorganic filters.
8. The composition of claim 1 , wherein it is absent of organic filters selected from octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.
9. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional UV filters, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, and combinations thereof.
10. The cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:
(a) 0.1 % to 10% by weight of at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, Isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, coco Caprylate I Coco Caprylate/Caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(b) 0.1 % to 10% by weight of at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate/caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(b) 5.0% to 20.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(c) 0.01 % to 8.0% by weight of at least one water-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
(d) 0.1 % to 10% of at least one anionic copolymer selected from acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Use of the cosmetic composition, as defined in claim 1 , for the manufacture of a product to be used as sunscreen daily product.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2024/050123 WO2025199595A1 (en) | 2024-03-27 | 2024-03-27 | Cosmetic sunscreen composition and use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition |
| FR2406097A FR3160560A3 (en) | 2024-03-27 | 2024-06-10 | COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2024/050123 WO2025199595A1 (en) | 2024-03-27 | 2024-03-27 | Cosmetic sunscreen composition and use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition |
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| WO2025199595A1 true WO2025199595A1 (en) | 2025-10-02 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| PCT/BR2024/050123 Pending WO2025199595A1 (en) | 2024-03-27 | 2024-03-27 | Cosmetic sunscreen composition and use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition |
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| FR (1) | FR3160560A3 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2025199595A1 (en) |
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