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WO2025181773A1 - Composition comprenant un biotensioactif et de l'acide salicylique - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un biotensioactif et de l'acide salicylique

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Publication number
WO2025181773A1
WO2025181773A1 PCT/IB2025/052230 IB2025052230W WO2025181773A1 WO 2025181773 A1 WO2025181773 A1 WO 2025181773A1 IB 2025052230 W IB2025052230 W IB 2025052230W WO 2025181773 A1 WO2025181773 A1 WO 2025181773A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
present
relative
total weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/IB2025/052230
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Christopher PANG
Changlong CHEN
Siliu Tan
Mariko Hasebe
Masanori Orita
Hiroaki KAGA
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US18/591,930 external-priority patent/US20250275908A1/en
Priority claimed from FR2404520A external-priority patent/FR3161561A3/fr
Priority claimed from FR2406067A external-priority patent/FR3162984A3/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2025181773A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025181773A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/10—Anti-acne agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions comprising at least one biosurfactant and at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives, in particular a cosmetic composition comprising the same.
  • Anti-acne cleansing compositions often have the undesired effect of drying out the skin, and are further limited in the scope of their utility for purposes of use and ease of application for cleansing and extended applications as a mask or spot treatment. Therefore, there is a need to develop an effective anti-acne composition which provides not only effectiveness for treating acne but also sensorial and aesthetic benefits and adequate hydration to acne prone-skin in a format that satisfies consumer preferences for application and use.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for effectively treating and reducing acne, hydrating and/or cleansing acne-prone skin in a format that satisfies consumer preferences for application and use.
  • the disclosure provides a composition that may have a unique paste texture, such as, but not limited to, a wasabi-like paste texture wherein the texture is sufficiently thick to not run or slip off the skin when applied prior to rinsing, is not slimy, and is smooth without granulation or graininess, is water miscible and glides on when applied with shear stress, with low to high foaming and which dries clear.
  • a unique paste texture such as, but not limited to, a wasabi-like paste texture wherein the texture is sufficiently thick to not run or slip off the skin when applied prior to rinsing, is not slimy, and is smooth without granulation or graininess, is water miscible and glides on when applied with shear stress, with low to high foaming and which dries clear.
  • unique wasabi-like paste refers by comparison to, for example a familiar condiment known as wasabi paste made from horseradish, and may include one or more of water or other liquid, mustard, green food dye and other ingredients, wherein the inventive composition is not fibrous or grainy as may be the case with actual wasabi type condiments.
  • the wasabi-like paste may be used as a 3-in-l composition for acne-prone skin, which includes a daily skin clearing cleanser to be mixed with water, an overnight drying spot treatment in its original form, and/or a mask when layered on damped face.
  • the composition includes a glycolipid selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof, at least one salicylic acid or derivative, at least on cationic polymer comprising a polysaccharide derived from [3— linked D-glucosamine and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, at least one clay, cosmetically acceptable solvents, at least one surfactant, at least one thickener/rheology modifier, one or more additional skin actives, and at least one thickener/rheology modifier.
  • a glycolipid selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof, at least one salicylic acid or derivative, at least on cationic polymer comprising a polysaccharide derived from [3— linked D-glucosamine and
  • the composition includes a glycolipid comprising at least one rhamnolipid, at least one salicylic acid or derivative comprising salicylic acid, at least on cationic polymer comprising chitosan, at least one clay comprising kaolin, cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising at least water and glycerin, at least one surfactant that is a solid surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl isethionate, and at least on additional skin active comprising niacinamide, and at least one thickener/rheology modifier that includes carrageenan.
  • the disclosure provides a composition that comprises the at least one rhamnolipid present from 2% to 5%, salicylic acid or its derivatives present from 1% to 3%, kaolin present from about 10% to about 20%, the at least one surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl isethionate present from about 5% to about 15%, glycerin present from 10% to 40%, niacinamide present at about 2%, carrageenan present from about from about 0.5% to about 2%, all amounts by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5.
  • composition comprising:
  • the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and also salts thereof derived from an inoiganic or oiganic base;
  • At least one cationic polymer selected from a polysaccharide derived from (3 — linked D-glucosamine orN-acetyl-D-glucosamine;
  • cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising water, and comprising glycerin present from about 2% to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • At least one surfactant present from about 1 % to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5, and wherein the composition has a wasabi-like paste texture.
  • composition comprising:
  • the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and also salts thereof derived from an inoiganic or oiganic base; the at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives or its derivatives of formula (I) being present from about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising water, and comprising glycerin present from about 10% to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • composition (f) at least one surfactant present from about 1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5, wherein the composition has a wasabi-like paste texture, and wherein the composition is a 3 -in- 1 paste formula base for acne-prone skin as a skin cleanser, as a spot treatment, and as a mask.
  • the glycolipid is selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof.
  • the glycolipid is rhamnolipids.
  • the at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives is salicylic acid.
  • the salicylic acid derivatives are represented by formula (I) in which the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the salicylic acid derivatives are represented by formula (I) in which the R radical denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, alternatively alkyl group, containing 2 or more, alternatively 3 or more, alternatively 4 or more, alternatively 5 or more, alternatively 6 or more carbon atoms, and/or 22 or less, alternatively 18 or less, alternatively 14 or less, alternatively 12 or less, alternatively 10 or less carbon atoms.
  • the salicylic acid derivatives are represented by formula (I) in which R’ denotes a hydroxyl group.
  • the cationic polymer is a polysaccharide derived from [3-hnked D-glucosamine and N- acetyl-D-glucosamine, such as, but not limited to, chitosan.
  • the at least one clay can be, such as, but not limited to, kaolin.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvents comprise water, and comprise glycerin present from about 2% to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; or the cosmetically acceptable solvents comprise water, and comprise glycerin present from about 10% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention may further comprise at least one surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl isethionate present at about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention may also further comprise niacinamide present at about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5.
  • the amount of the glycolipid(s), including rhamnolipids may be 0.1% to 10% by weight, alternatively 1% to 7%, by weight, alternatively 2% to 5% by weight, alternatively 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the salicylic acid or its derivatives may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, alternatively from 1% to 3% by weight, alternatively 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the clay may be from 5% to 25% by weight, alternatively from 10% to 20% % by weight, alternatively 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the glycerin may be from 1% to 45% by weight, alternatively from 2% to 40% by weight, alternatively 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the compositions according to the present invention is from about 3.5 to about 6.5, alternatively from about 4 to 6, alternatively from about 4.5 to 5.5, alternatively the pH is 5.5 or 5.0.
  • the at least one clay may include kaolin present from about 10% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least one surfactant may include sodium cocoyl isethionate present from about 5% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the kaolin may be present at about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the sodium cocoyl isethionate may be present at about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention may have a paste texture, such as, but not limited to, a unique wasabi-like paste texture wherein the texture is sufficiently thick to not run or slip off the skin, is not slimy, and is smooth without granulation or graininess, is water miscible and glides on when applied with shear stress, with low to high foaming and dries clear.
  • a unique wasabi-like paste refers by comparison to, for example a familiar condiment known as wasabi paste made from horseradish, and may include one or more of water or other liquid, mustard, green food dye and other ingredients, wherein the inventive composition is not fibrous or grainy as may be the case with actual wasabi type condiments.
  • the wasabi-like paste may be used as a 3-in- 1 composition for acne-prone skin, which includes a daily skin clearing cleanser to be mixed with water, an overnight drying spot treatment in its original form, and/or a mask when layered on damped face.
  • compositions may be a cosmetic composition for treating, hydrating, and/or cleansing acne-prone skin.
  • the present invention also relates to method for treating, hydrating, and/or cleansing acne- prone skin, comprising: applying onto the skin in need the compositions according to the present invention.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of a combination of the glycolipid(s), the salicylic acid or its derivative, the cationic polymer, the clay and the solvents comprising water and glycerine for treating, hydrating, and/or cleansing acne-prone skin.
  • compositions comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives having the specific structure of formula (I), at least one cationic polymer, at least one clay, and solvents comprising water and glycerine can treat, hydrate, and/or cleanse acne-prone skin, thus completing the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and also salts thereof derived from an inoiganic or oiganic base;
  • At least one cationic polymer selected from a polysaccharide derived from [3 — linked D-glucosamine orN-acetyl-D-glucosamine;
  • cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising water, and comprising glycerin present from about 2% to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • At least one surfactant present from about 1 % to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5, and wherein the composition has a wasabi-like paste texture.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises: at least one rhamnolipid present from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and also salts thereof derived from an inoiganic or oiganic base; the at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives or its derivatives of formula (I) being present from about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising water, and comprising glycerin present from about 10% to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • composition (f) at least one surfactant present from about 1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5, wherein the composition has a wasabi-like paste texture, and wherein the composition is a 3 -in- 1 paste formula base for acne-prone skin as a skin cleanser, as a spot treatment, and as a mask.
  • compositions and the method according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed maimer.
  • compositions according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, alternatively a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance, alternatively a cosmetic composition for treating, hydrating, and/or cleansing acne-prove skin.
  • the keratinous substance here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the facial or body skin, scalp, lips, and the like.
  • compositions according to the present invention can be liquid, semi-liquid, or solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa).
  • the composition may take various forms, such as, but not limited to, a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), or the like.
  • compositions according to the present invention may be in the form of a paste, such as, but not limited to, a unique wasabi-like paste texture.
  • compositions according to the present invention may be used as a cosmetic composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratinous substance, such as, but not limited to, skin, such as, but not limited to, facial skin.
  • the wasabi-like paste may be used as a 3-in- 1 composition for acne- prone skin, which includes a daily skin clearing cleanser to be mixed with water, an overnight drying spot treatment in its original form, and/or a mask when layered on damped face.
  • compositions can be used as a daily skin clearing cleanser, to be mixed with water, applied and rubbed on to the skin, and, after a short period of time, rinsed off with water.
  • the compositions can be dotted onto skin in its original form and rinsed off with water after a prolonged period of time, e.g., overnight.
  • the compositions can be layered on damped face and retained on the skin for a selected period of time, then rinsed off water.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glycolipid; (b) at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives according to formula (I); (c) at least one cationic polymer, (d) at least a clay, and (e) cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising water, and comprising glycerin present from about 2% to about 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5.
  • a plant-based thickener may be added to any compositions described herein, or may be substituted for any clay disclosed herein in equal proportions by weight.
  • the compositions disclosed herein may be free of plant-based thickeners.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one rhamnolipid present from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives present from about 1 % by weight to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) at least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan; (d) at least one clay comprising kaolin; and (e) cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising water, and comprising glycerin present from about 10% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5; wherein the composition is suitable for 3-in-l paste formulas for acne-prone skin as a skin cleanser, as a spot treatment, and as a mask.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise one or more glycolipids.
  • the amount of the glycolipid(s), including rhamnolipids may be 0.1% to 10% by weight, alternatively 1% to 7%, including 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% 5%, 6%, and 7%, by weight, alternatively 2% to 5% by weight, alternatively 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • glycolipid is understood as meaning a compound formed from a lipid to which are attached one or more sugar compounds.
  • the one or more glycolipids may be selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more glycolipids may be selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose moiety and can be represented by the general formula (I): in which:
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation
  • - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4.
  • - q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, alternatively equal to 6.
  • the glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1. The appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a dichloromethane:methanol or chlorofomrmethanol mixture.
  • the one or more glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose moiety and can be represented by the general formula (II): in which:
  • R 3 and R 4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group
  • R 5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, alternatively methyl,
  • R 6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms in the groups R 5 and R 6 does not exceed 20, alternatively from 14 to 18.
  • Sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the invention either in the form of the open-chain free acid, where R 7 represents a hydrogen atom and R 8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R 7 and R 8 , as indicated by formula (III): in which:
  • the sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, such as, but not limited to, Torulopsis apicolci and Torulopsis bombicola cells.
  • the fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.
  • sophorolipids such as, but not limited to, that sold under the Sopholiance S name by Givaudan and that sold under the BioToLife name by BASF.
  • the one or more glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (IV): in which:
  • the trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium
  • Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis Appropriate fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passed et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.
  • the one or more glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (V): in which:
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation
  • R 12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, alternatively 13 carbon atoms,
  • - R 13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group
  • - R 14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Appropriate fermentation processes are provided by Frantz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757- 762.
  • the one or more glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.
  • composition according to the invention may include one or more rhamnolipids.
  • Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or of two rhamnose fragments (di -rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains of [3-hydroxylated fatty acids linked to one another by an ester bond.
  • - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
  • - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0;
  • Ri and R2 each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, such as, but not limited to, hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, alternatively a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical.
  • composition according to the invention may include at least one di-rhamnolipid.
  • composition according to the invention may include at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
  • - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
  • Ri and R2 each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, such as, but not limited to, hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, alternatively a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
  • the glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration, alternatively in the alpha configuration.
  • the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) may be the carboxylate salts thereof with an oiganic or inoiganic cation and especially with a cation selected from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium;
  • the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) may be those solvated with one or more molecules of water or of oiganic solvents, such as, but not limited to, a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as, but not limited to, ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids in one embodiment being in the form of the R enantiomers; and
  • alkyl denotes a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; such as, but not limited to, a C1-C20 alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, but not limited to, a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl.
  • composition according to the invention may include at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
  • - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
  • - Ri and R2 which are identical or different, are selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals and radicals of formula -(CffrloCHv with o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, alternatively from 3 to 15, alternatively from 4 to 12.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, alternatively at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m may be equal to 1.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of the following formula (VII): in which:
  • - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; alternatively, m is equal to 1, - n denotes an integer equal to 1,
  • - Ri is a -(CH 2 )p-CH 3 radical, with p being an integer varying from 1 to 23, alternatively from 4 to 12,
  • R 2 is a -(CH 2 ) q -CH 3 radical, with q being an integer varying from 1 to 23, alternatively from 4 to 12, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
  • di-RL-CXCY is an alternative way of writing in order to represent a dirhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R 2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also referred to as di-RL-C 10C 10, or one of the salts, solvates and optical isomers thereof.
  • VI di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also referred to as di-RL-C 10C 10, or one of the salts, solvates and optical isomers thereof.
  • the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight, alternatively from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a - (CH2) O CH3 radical, with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; alternatively, Ri represents a -(CfDeCH radical and R2 a nonenyl radical.
  • formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1
  • Ri represents a - (CH2) O CH3 radical, with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12
  • R2 is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and
  • composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, alternatively at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) selected from:
  • n and m are equal to I
  • Ri represents a -(CH2) O CH3 radical, with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12
  • R2 is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; alternatively, Ri represents a -(Ctfrf.CI-h radical and R2 a nonenyl radical.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, alternatively at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) selected from:
  • Ri represents a -(CH2)6CH3 radical and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
  • rhamnolipids are customarily prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art starting from bacterial producers, such as, but not limited to, Pseudomonas .
  • Use may be made, as rhamnolipid, of the one sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids).
  • the amount of rhamnolipids may be 0.1% to 10% by weight, alternatively 1% to 7%, including 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% 5%, 6%, and 7%, by weight, alternatively 2% to 5% by weight, alternatively 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives according to formula (I).
  • a single type of the salicylic acid or its derivative may be used, but two or more different types of the salicylic acid or its derivatives may be used in combination.
  • the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and also salts thereof derived from an inoiganic or organic base.
  • the R radical in formula (I) denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; it being possible for said hydrocarbon-based chains to be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the R radical in formula (I) denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, alternatively alkyl group, containing 2 or more, alternatively 3 or more, alternatively 4 or more, alternatively 5 or more, alternatively 6 or more carbon atoms, and/or 22 or less, alternatively 18 or less, alternatively 14 or less, alternatively 12 or less, alternatively 10 or less carbon atoms.
  • R’ in formula (I) is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula: in which Ri denotes a radical -(CH2) n -CH3 where n is a number ranging from 0 to 14.
  • the salicylic acid derivatives may include those according to formula (I) in which the R radical is a C3-C10 alkyl group and/or R' denotes hydroxyl.
  • R represents a chain derived from caprylic, linoleic, linolenic or oleic acid.
  • R radical denotes a C3-C10 alkyl group bearing a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and R denotes hydroxyl.
  • Suitable salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) include 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n- heptyloxy salicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.
  • the derivative in question may be 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • the salts of the salicylic acid or its derivatives are also considered.
  • the salts derived from inorganic bases mention may be made of those derived from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxylated bases, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and ammonia.
  • the salts derived from the organic bases mention may be made of those derived from bases of amine or alkanolamine type.
  • the amount of the salicylic acid or its derivatives may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, alternatively from 1% to 3% by weight, alternatively 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions disclosed herein may have any suitable weight ratio of glycolipid to salicylic acid or its derivatives, including, but not limited to, 3: 1 to 1:3, alternatively 2: 1 to 1:2, alternatively 1: 1 to 2: 1, alternatively 1.2: 1 to 1.8: 1, alternatively 1.4: 1 to 1.6: 1, alternatively 1.5: 1.
  • the acne care composition may comprise at least one cationic polymer selected from nature-based polymers that are polysaccharides, and other natural (i.e., plant, animal, or bacterial based), synthetic, or modified cationic nature-based or synthetic polymers.
  • the at least one cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyomithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, and combinations thereof.
  • cationic polymers include polysaccharide-based delivery molecules (e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose), cationic peptides and their derivatives (e.g., polylysine, polyomithine), peptide/protein polymers ((e.g., histone, collagen), linear or branched synthetic polymers (e.g., polybrene, polyethyleneimine), natural polymers (e.g., histone, collagen), synthetic dendrimers, cationic thiolated biopolymers (nature-based thiomers or nature-based dendrimers, e.g., chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine as well as chitosan- thioglycolic acid).
  • polysaccharide-based delivery molecules e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cati
  • the composition may include or exclude any other cationic polymer, including a nature-based polymer or synthetic polymer.
  • the cationic polymer may be a polysaccharide derived from [3— linked D-glucosamine and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
  • the cationic polymer is chitosan.
  • the amount ofthe chitosan may be from 0.01%to 3% by weight, alternatively from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, alternatively 0.1% to 0.2% by weight, including, but not limited to, about 0.1%, 0.15%, and 0.2%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions comprise chitosan present at about 0.1%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one clay may be selected from the group of clays consisting of kaolinites, smectite, sodium smectite, calcium smectite, illite, chlorite, vermiculite, attapulgite, and combinations thereof.
  • the at least one clay may be a smectite clay in the mica family of phylosilicates.
  • the at least one clay may comprise hectorite.
  • the at least one clay comprises kaolin.
  • the amount of the clay may be from 5% to 25% by weight, alternatively from 10% to 20% % by weight, including 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18% 19% and 20%; alternatively 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the disclosure contain at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvent may be chosen from water.
  • water is present in the composition in a range from about 10% to about 60%, or from about 20% to about 55%, or from about 25% to about 50%, or from about 28% to about 49%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • a range from about 10% to about 60%, or from about 20% to about 55%, or from about 25% to about 50%, or from about 28% to about 49%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • water may be present by weight, based on the weight of the composition, from about 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, to about 60 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as, but not limited to, rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, but not limited to, water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bams, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
  • a floral water such as, but not limited to, rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water
  • a natural thermal or mineral water
  • the water phase may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as, but not limited to, zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.
  • the compositions include at least one water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent is interchangeable with the term “water-miscible solvent” and means a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and it has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions.
  • the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions.
  • the water-soluble solvent includes glycerin.
  • the amount of the glycerin may be from 1 % to 45% by weight, alternatively from 2% to 40% % by weight, alternatively 10% to 30% by weight, including, but not limited to, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • organic solvents non-limiting mentions can be made of ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, but not limited to, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, but not limited to, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as, but not limited to, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • glycols or glycol ethers such as, but not limited to, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, but not limited to, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol
  • organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.
  • the oiganic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
  • water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols, glycols and polyols) such as, but not limited to, glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3 -butanediol, 1,4- butanediol, 3-methyl-l,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl- 2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-l,4-
  • alkanols polyhydr
  • water-soluble solvents include alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as, but not limited to, ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as, but not limited to, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1 -methyl- 1- methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glyco
  • the amount of the at least one water-soluble solvent is from about 0.1% to about 25%, or from about 0.1% to about 2%, or from about 0.1% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.8%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 1% to about 20%, or from about l%to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 8%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • One of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
  • compositions include more than one water soluble solvent, each water soluble solvent presents in an amount as set forth herein above, wherein each different water soluble solvent may be present within one of the ranges selected from the ranges set forth herein above.
  • water-soluble solvents may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 to about 25 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • compositions further comprise the surfactant sodium cocoyl isethionate.
  • compositions may include, or alternatively may be substantially free from, or exclude any one or more of nonionic, cationic, or anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the compositions exclude all surfactants except sodium cocoyl isethionate.
  • the compositions also include at least one additional surfactant selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, and cetyl alcohol.
  • the composition includes at least glyceryl stearate SE in addition to sodium cocoyl isethionate.
  • the concentration of sodium cocoyl isethionate present in the compositions is from about l%to about 20%, or from about 2% to about 18%, or from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 12%, or about 10%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • concentration of sodium cocoyl isethionate present in the compositions is from about l%to about 20%, or from about 2% to about 18%, or from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 12%, or about 10%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • sodium cocoyl isethionate is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,18, 19 to about 20 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • an additional surfactant such as, but not limited to, glyceryl stearate SE
  • glyceryl stearate SE is present in the compositions is from about 1% to about 20%, or from about 2% to about 18%, or from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 12%, or from about 2% to about 6%, or about 5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • glyceryl stearate SE is present in the compositions is from about 1% to about 20%, or from about 2% to about 18%, or from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 12%, or from about 2% to about 6%, or about 5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • additives there may be one or more optional actives or other ingredients (herein, “additives”) present in the compositions, including, but not limited to, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, hydrophobic organic solvents, gums, resins, thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, buffers, organic or inorganic fillers, preserving agents, such as, but not limited to, phenoxyethanol, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents such as, but not limited to, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, anti-microbials, chelating agents, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, skin care actives such as, but not limited to, ceramides, sodium lauroyl lactylate, ceramide np, ceramide ap, phytosphingosine, cholesterol
  • Suitable antiseptics may include, but are not limited to, ethanol, triclosan, piroctone olamine, triclocarban, paraben, acrinol, alkyldiaminoglycine or a salt thereof, povidone iodine, potassium iodide, iodine, 1,2 -pentanediol, halocarban, 3,4,4-trichlorocarbanilide, triethyl citrate, resorcin, hexachlorophene, silver-supported zeolite, silver-supported silica, gluconic acid, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, undecylene acid, salicylic acid, sorbic acid or a salt thereof, dehydroacetic acid or a salt thereof, methyl paraoxybenzoate, ethyl paraoxybenzoate, propyl paraoxybenzoate, isopropyl paraoxybenzoate, butyl paraoxy
  • Antiseptics may be used in any suitable amount, including, but not limited to, an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, alternatively from 0.01% to 5% by weight, alternatively from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions include at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides, and a combination thereof.
  • the composition includes additives comprising sodium hydroxide (0.3-0.5%), niacinamide (2%), lactic acid (0.05%), cetyl alcohol (2.5%), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (0.5-1%), and ceramides (sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide
  • additives comprising sodium hydroxide (0.3-0.5%), niacinamide (2%), lactic acid (0.05%), cetyl alcohol (2.5%), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (0.5-1%), and ceramides (sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide
  • compositions according to the present invention may comprise niacinamide present at about from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, alternatively from about 0.5% to 5% by weight, alternatively from about 1% to about 3% by weight, including, but not limited to, 1%, 2%, and 3% by weight, alternatively about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amounts of additives, such as, but not limited to, actives and other components, that may be present in the compositions can range from about 0.001% to about 50%, or from about 0.5% to about 30%, or from about 1.5% to about 20%, and from about 5% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the acne care composition.
  • one or a combination of additives may be present in the compositions, by weight, based on the weight of the composition, each one or the combination present from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 to about 50 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the compositions may comprise at least one stabilizer and/or thickening agent (thickener).
  • the thickener may be thickening polymers.
  • thickening polymers include sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, carrageenan, acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, sodium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, tragacanth gum, acacia gum, Arabic gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glyco
  • the composition comprises one or more of carrageenan, xanthan gum, and sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof, present in a range from about 0.1 % to about 5%, or at about 1%, by weight ofthe composition.
  • the acne care composition comprises carrageenan as a stabilizer/thickening agent, present at about 1%, by weight ofthe composition.
  • the at least one thickener when present, is present in the composition from about 0.1% to about 5%, or from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or about 1%, by weight of the composition ,or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the acne care composition.
  • any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight based on the weight of the acne care composition.
  • the at least one thickener may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4 to about 5 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one pH adjusting agent, such as, but not limited to, an acidifying or a basifying agent, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.
  • the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5, alternatively from about 4 to 6, alternatively from about 4.5 to 5.5, alternatively pH is about 5.5 or about 5.0.
  • acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as, but not limited to, hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as, but not limited to, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • mineral or organic acids such as, but not limited to, hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as, but not limited to, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • basifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxides of an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide; alkali metal silicates, such as, but not limited to, sodium metasilicates; amino acids, such as, but not limited to, basic amino acids, such as, but not limited to, arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine; carbonates and bicarbonates, such as, but not limited to, of a primary amine, secondary amine or tertiary amine, of an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or of ammonium; and the compounds of the following formula:
  • - W is a Ci-Ce alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a Ci-Ce alkyl group
  • the pH adjusting agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, alternatively from 0.01% to 5% by weight, alternatively from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the abovedescribed essential and optional ingredients in a conventional manner.
  • the ingredient can be heated until it is dissolved. It is possible to further comprise mixing any of the optional ingredients and heating the composition until an ingredient is dissolved.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for treating, hydrating, and/or cleansing acne-prone skin including scalp, lips, in such as, but not limited to, facial skin, comprising applying onto the acne-prone skin a composition comprising:
  • At least one cationic polymer selected from a polysaccharide derived from [3 — linked D- glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine;
  • cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising water, and comprising glycerin present from about 2% to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3.5 to about 6.5.
  • Treating acne-prone skin in present invention means reduction of sebum, or deposition of salicylic acid or its derivatives, or reduction of viable cells of Cutibacterium acnes.
  • the composition is generally applied on acne-prone skin with hands, fingers, or an applicator.
  • the present invention may comprise an optional step of rinsing the composition from the keratinous substance after it is applied.
  • the composition is a base for a 3-in-l paste formula for acne-prone skin as a skin cleanser, as a spot treatment, and as a mask.
  • a base for 3-in-l paste formula a single composition forms a daily skin clearing cleanser when mixed with water, is suitable as an overnight drying spot treatment when applied without adulteration, and forms a deeply purifying mask when layered on a damped face.
  • a base for a 3-in-l paste formula is optimized for physical attributes including spreadability, drying rate, miscibility with water, foaming, rinsibility, appearance, or combinations thereof such that these attributes are at least acceptable, alternatively fair, alternatively good, for the three uses.
  • the 3-in-l paste formula includes optimal concentrations of a clay, such as, but not limited to, kaolin, a solid mild surfactant, such as, but not limited to, sodium cocoyl isethionate, and a water-soluble solvent, such as, but not limited to, glycerin, the combination of which may provide fast-drying, sebum control, and hydration.
  • a clay such as, but not limited to, kaolin
  • a solid mild surfactant such as, but not limited to, sodium cocoyl isethionate
  • a water-soluble solvent such as, but not limited to, glycerin
  • the base for a 3 -in- 1 paste formula when mixed with water to form the daily skin clearing cleanser may provide foaming (lathering), a revitalizing scent, easy movement on skin, pore cleansing, cleansing sensation, dirt removal, oil removal, ease of use, ease of removal, brightening, or combinations thereof.
  • the base of a 3-in-l paste formula, used without adulteration as a spot treatment may provide a sufficiently drying characteristic so as to remain in place on skin, a lack of residue, a lack of rubbing off, reduction or prevention of blemishes or acne, a drying time of ten minutes or less at room temperature, ease of removal, or combinations thereof.
  • the base of a 3-in-l paste formula, used as a mask layered on damp skin may dry to a provide a dry sensation on skin, become stiff and tight on skin, reduce or eliminate acne, ease of application, ease of removal, a tightening sensation to skin, a thinner layer than known clay masks in the art, or combinations thereof.
  • composition used in the method according to the present invention may include any of the optional ingredients as explained above for the composition according to the present invention.
  • compositions of Examples 1 to 11 were prepared by mixing the raw materials as listed in Table 2 with a magnetic stirrer. The numerical values for the amounts of the raw materials shown in Table 2 are all based on “% by weight.”
  • rhamnolipids were obtained from EVONIK (trade name: RHEANCE One, INCI name: glycolipids), which contained about 50% by weight of rhamnolipids in water.
  • the weight percentages of rhamnolipids in the entire application including in the Examples, Specification, and Claims refer to the weight percentages of the rhamnolipids aqueous solution.
  • Examples 8-11 were evaluated against petroleum jelly (positive control) and bare skin for hydration. Subjects cleansed each volar forearm with one 70% isopropyl alcohol wipe. Skin was permited to air dry for thirty (30) minutes prior to the baseline measurements, with the volar forearms exposed in a room with controlled temperature and humidity conditions. Baseline measurements of each site were taken with the Comeometer 825. Additional measurements were taken at 15 minutes and one hour.
  • compositions of Examples 12 to 19 were prepared by mixing the raw materials as listed in Table 4 with a magnetic stirrer.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the raw materials shown in Table 4 are all based on “% by weight.”
  • rhamnolipids were obtained from EVONIK (trade name: RHEANCE One, INCI name: glycolipids), which contained about 50% by weight of rhamnolipids in water.
  • the weight percentages of rhamnolipids in the entire application including in the examples, specification, and claims refer to the weight percentages of the rhamnolipids aqueous solution.
  • Examples 17, 18, 14, and 12 had a pH around 5.5. It was further observed that the pH of the samples had significant effect on C. acne reduction.
  • the C. acne results for log reduction with effect of pH are shown in Table 8. A lower pH of 5.5 clearly improved the C. acne reduction compared to pH 7.2.
  • xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl guar resulted in a slimy texture
  • hydroxypropyl starch phosphate resulted in texture that was not thickened
  • ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 resulted in texture a that was not smooth
  • acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and carbomer resulted in a texture that was not smooth and the composition required neutralization of pH for suitable use.
  • Examples 12, 14 and 18 were developed to be 3-in-l formulas for a daily skin clearing cleanser when mixed with water, an overnight drying spot treatment in its original form, and a deeply purifying mask when layered on damped face.
  • Examples 12, 14 and 18 contained optimal concentrations of kaolin, solid mild surfactant (sodium cocoyl isethionate) and glycerin for fast-drying, sebum control, and hydration. They also contained effective amounts of salicylic acid, rhamnolipids, and niacinamide for anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory treatments; and sufficient amount of chitosan for enhanced salicylic acid deposition.
  • solid mild surfactant sodium cocoyl isethionate
  • glycerin for fast-drying, sebum control, and hydration. They also contained effective amounts of salicylic acid, rhamnolipids, and niacinamide for anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory treatments; and sufficient amount of chitosan for enhanced salicylic acid deposition.
  • Examples 12, 14 and 18 had a unique wasabi-like paste texture suitable for the 3-in-l applications, which also require many optimized physical attributes such as, but not limited to, spreadability, drying rate, miscibility with water, foaming, rinsibility, and appearance etc. The attributes were rated as acceptable, fair, or good. As shown is Table 9, Examples 12 and 14 had better physical attributes in general than Example 18.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions comprenant (a) au moins un glycolipide ; (b) au moins un acide salicylique ou ses dérivés représentés par la formule (I) ; (c) au moins un polymère cationique qui peut être un polysaccharide dérivé de D-glucosamine liée à β et de la N-acétyl-d-glucosamine ; (d) au moins une argile ; et (e) des solvants cosmétiquement acceptables comprenant de l'eau, de la glycérine. Les compositions selon la présente invention peuvent exercer un effet de traitement, d'hydratation et/ou de nettoyage de la peau sujette à l'acné.
PCT/IB2025/052230 2024-02-29 2025-02-28 Composition comprenant un biotensioactif et de l'acide salicylique Pending WO2025181773A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (12)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US18/591,178 2024-02-29
US18/591,930 US20250275908A1 (en) 2024-02-29 2024-02-29 Cosmetic composition for acne care
US18/591,930 2024-02-29
US18/591,178 US20250275903A1 (en) 2024-02-29 2024-02-29 Composition comprising biosurfactant and salicylic acid
FRFR2404520 2024-04-30
FR2404520A FR3161561A3 (fr) 2024-04-30 2024-04-30 Composition cosmétique pour le soin de l’acné
FRFR2406067 2024-06-10
FR2406067A FR3162984A3 (fr) 2024-06-10 2024-06-10 Composition comprenant un biotensioactif et de l'acide salicylique
US202418901492A 2024-09-30 2024-09-30
US18/901,492 2024-09-30
FR2412751 2024-11-21
FRFR2412751 2024-11-21

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Citations (10)

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FR2581542A1 (fr) 1985-05-07 1986-11-14 Oreal Compositions topiques destinees au traitement de la peau a base de derives de l'acide salicylique
EP0378936A2 (fr) 1988-12-16 1990-07-25 L'oreal Utilisation de dérivés salicylés pour le traitement du vieillissement de la peau
EP0570230A1 (fr) 1992-05-15 1993-11-18 Shiseido Company Limited Préparation externe pour la peau
US5267407A (en) 1990-04-18 1993-12-07 Forjas Taurus S/A Safety device for semiautomatic pistol
US5558871A (en) 1994-01-10 1996-09-24 L'oreal Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions containing salicylic acid
US5667789A (en) 1994-11-03 1997-09-16 L'oreal Salicylic acid derivative as a stabilizer for an oil-in-water emulsion
US6159479A (en) 1997-09-16 2000-12-12 L'oreal Hydrous salicylic acid solutions
FR3114504A1 (fr) * 2020-09-25 2022-04-01 L'oreal Composition comprenant un glycolipide et un dÉrivÉ d’acide salicyclique
US20220183958A1 (en) * 2019-03-07 2022-06-16 Evonik Operations Gmbh Rhamnolipids as deposition aid
WO2022162620A2 (fr) * 2021-01-29 2022-08-04 L'oreal Composition de nettoyant assurant un dépôt amélioré d'acide salicylique pour le traitement de l'acné

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US4767750A (en) 1985-05-07 1988-08-30 L'oreal Topical compositions intended for skin treatment containing salicylic acid derivatives
EP0378936A2 (fr) 1988-12-16 1990-07-25 L'oreal Utilisation de dérivés salicylés pour le traitement du vieillissement de la peau
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EP0570230A1 (fr) 1992-05-15 1993-11-18 Shiseido Company Limited Préparation externe pour la peau
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US20220183958A1 (en) * 2019-03-07 2022-06-16 Evonik Operations Gmbh Rhamnolipids as deposition aid
FR3114504A1 (fr) * 2020-09-25 2022-04-01 L'oreal Composition comprenant un glycolipide et un dÉrivÉ d’acide salicyclique
WO2022162620A2 (fr) * 2021-01-29 2022-08-04 L'oreal Composition de nettoyant assurant un dépôt amélioré d'acide salicylique pour le traitement de l'acné

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