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WO2025176882A1 - Composition de coiffage des cheveux - Google Patents

Composition de coiffage des cheveux

Info

Publication number
WO2025176882A1
WO2025176882A1 PCT/EP2025/054803 EP2025054803W WO2025176882A1 WO 2025176882 A1 WO2025176882 A1 WO 2025176882A1 EP 2025054803 W EP2025054803 W EP 2025054803W WO 2025176882 A1 WO2025176882 A1 WO 2025176882A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
weight
range
composition
hair
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2025/054803
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Melina Sulzbach
Susann WARMBIER
Sabine Schmid
Normen Lipinski
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kao Germany GmbH
Original Assignee
Kao Germany GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kao Germany GmbH filed Critical Kao Germany GmbH
Publication of WO2025176882A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025176882A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C, one or more thickening agent(s), and one or more styling polymer(s).
  • Curly consumers desire a defined, bouncy and cared hair look and hair feel. They desire defined curls with a plastic 3D-shape that feel cares and nourished in wet and dry finish. Curl products often contain a high concentration of oils to create nourished, soft, bundled and healthy-looking curls and waves in combination with a potent emulsifier to create a stable formulation. But without styling polymers, this bundling effect and the bounciness is rapidly lost after styling. The curl hangs out, appears limp, misses bounciness and looks unruly and frizzy due to the lack of curl definition. Typically, classic synthetic polymers are used to achieve curl retention and create long lasting, bouncy, defines curls.
  • the first object of the present invention is an aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising: a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, b) one or more thickening agent(s) selected from the salts of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate at a concentration in the range of 0.5 to 10% by weight, and c) one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s), at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second object of the present invention is a method of styling hair, wherein the composition according to any of the preceding claims is applied onto hair, especially wet or dry hair, and hair is dried/styled without rinsing off.
  • Third object of the present invention is a kit for hair comprising a composition according to any of the preceding claims and a hair styling tool such as a brush or a comb.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises one or more oil(s) being liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure as compound(s) according to group a).
  • said one or more oil(s) is selected from natural and synthetic oils, more preferably from natural oil(s), more preferably said natural oil(s) are castor oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter oil, argan oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, soya oil, passiflora oil, black cumin oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia oil, rosehip oil, hempseed oil, and/or their mixtures, still more preferably one or more oil(s) is/are selected from castor oil and/or shea butter oil or mixture thereof.
  • the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a) in the composition of the present invention is in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a), more preferably the total concentration of one or more natural oil(s), is in the range of 2.5% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0% to 12.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5.0% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises the one or more compound(s) according to group b) at a concentration in the range of 0.5 to 10% by weight.
  • the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group b) is in the range of 1 % to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 2% to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s) as compound(s) according to group c).
  • said compound(s) is/are selected from natural or modified starch(es), more preferably from com starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, hydroxypropyl starch, and/or their mixtures, more, still more preferably the one or more styling polymer(s) is/are hydroxypropyl starch, and/or mixtures thereof.
  • the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group c), preferably the total concentration of hydroxypropyl starch, is in the range of 2.5% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0% to 12.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5.0% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of one or more compound(s) according to group a) to one or more compound(s) according to group c) is in the range of 0.2 to 5, preferably in the range of 0.3 to 3, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2.
  • the pH of the present invention is in the range of 5.0 to 7.0, more preferably in the range 5.5 to 7.0.
  • composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition.
  • Aqueous within the meaning of the present invention is that the composition comprises water at a total concentration of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 75% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise one or more additional hair styling polymer(s) which is/are different from the compound according to group c), preferably one or more non-ionic or cationic hair styling polymer(s).
  • Suitable non-ionic hair styling polymers are vinylpyrrolidon polymers of either homopolymers or copolymers with, particularly, vinylacetate. Those are known with the trade name “Luviskol” as homopolymers Luviskol K 30, K 60 or K 90 as well copolymers Luviskol VA 55, VA 64, Plus from BASF AG and advantage LS-E from ISP.
  • Suitable cationic hair styling polymers are Polyquaternium 11 , Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 22 and Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 30, Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 36, Polyquaternium 46, Polyquaternium 24, Polyquaternium 67, and Polyquaternium 72, or additionally Polyquaternium-68 (PQ-68), carbohydrate modified amino silicones such as CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 (INCI name: Gluconamido amodimethicone (and) Coco-Glucoside), Amodimethicone and grafted aminated Amodimethicone derivatives (e.g., aminopropyl dimethicone, sold under the tradename X-52-2265; Dowsil 969; Belsil ADM 6057 E), Luviset Clear E, Chitosan.
  • CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 INCI name: Gluconamido amodimethicone (and) Coco-Glucoside
  • the total concentration of the one or more additional hair styling polymer(s) different from the one of group c) is 1 % by weight or less, preferably 0.75% by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise one or more surfactant(s), preferably one or more non-ionic or cationic surfactant(s).
  • Suitable non-ionic surfactants are long-chain fatty acid mono- and dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid mono- or diethanolamide and myristic fatty acid mono or diethanolamide, stearic acid mono or diethanolamide, alkyl polyglucosides with an alkyl group of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and with 1 to 5 glucoside units, sorbitan esters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic, palmitic, myristic and lauric acid esters, fatty acid polyglycol esters or poly-condensates of ethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on the market, for example, under the trade name "Pluronics R ", as well as fatty alcohol ethoxylates, C -C22-fatty alcohol ethoxylates, known by the generic terms "Laureth”, “Myristeth”, “Oleth”, “Ceteth”, “Deceth”, “Steareth” and "Ce
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl dimonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride, dioleoylethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
  • composition of the present invention comprises one or more surfactant(s) at a concentration in the range of 0.1 % to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is an aqueous hair styling composition
  • Another aspect of the present invention is a method of styling hair, wherein the composition as defined above is applied onto hair, especially wet or dry hair, and hair is dried/styled without rinsing off.
  • the hair is dried with a hair dryer having an airflow temperature in the range of 80°C to 120°C.
  • Still another aspect of the present invention is a kit for hair comprising a composition as defined above and a hair styling tool such as a brush or comb.
  • Table 1 Formulations with combination of a high oil concentration with sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate and hydroxypropyl starch or polymers like Polyquaternium (PQ-16) or PVP/VA copolymer or PVP.
  • the formulation A comprising hydroxypropyl starch performed the best during the sensory evaluation by hairdressers. All properties like shine, curl formation & bundling, hair feel in wet and dry, and frizz showed superior results on the scale from one to five compared to the formulations including PQ-16, or PVPA/A copolymer, or only PVP (s. Table 1 ).
  • the effect was observed and confirmed by an expert panel.
  • the “in vivo” sensory evaluation by hairdressers is a well-established method used since about 50 years in the test salon at Kao Germany GmbH. This type of sensory evaluation is an industry standard method for testing the properties of professional hair care products on human hair.
  • the standard sensory evaluation is executed on real hair models by well-trained hairdresser experts, which are specialized in specific product segments e.g., color, perm, styling, and care products to ensure the reliability and reproducibility of the tests.
  • the evaluation of the formulations (s. Table 1 ) was conducted as monadic comparison on two different types of mannequin heads. Every head was analyzed by the hairdressers for each property (s. Table 1 ) on the scale between 1 and 5, wherein 1 stands for “bad”, 2 stands for “not good”, 3 stands for “medium”, 4 stands for "good”, and 5 stands for "very good” performance. Each mannequin head was evaluated by 10 stylists and a mean value was calculated (s. Table 1 ).

Landscapes

  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition aqueuse de coiffage de fibres kératiniques, de préférence des fibres kératiniques humaines, de préférence encore pour les cheveux, comprenant a) une ou plusieurs huile(s) liquide(s) à 20 °C et à la pression atmosphérique à une concentration totale dans la plage de 1 % à 20 % en poids, b) un ou plusieurs agent(s) épaississant(s) choisi(s) parmi les sels de polyacryloyldiméthyl taurate à une concentration dans la plage de 0,5 à 10 % en poids, et c) un ou plusieurs polymère(s) de coiffage comprenant une ou plusieurs unité(s) monomère(s) glucidique(s), à une concentration totale dans la plage de 1 % à 20 % en poids, toutes les concentrations étant calculées par rapport au poids total de la composition.
PCT/EP2025/054803 2024-02-22 2025-02-21 Composition de coiffage des cheveux Pending WO2025176882A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP24159027 2024-02-22
EP24159027.2 2024-02-22

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2025176882A1 true WO2025176882A1 (fr) 2025-08-28

Family

ID=90053621

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2025/054803 Pending WO2025176882A1 (fr) 2024-02-22 2025-02-21 Composition de coiffage des cheveux

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2025176882A1 (fr)

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2018064677A1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions et méthodes de traitement capillaire
US20180092826A1 (en) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions and methods for treating hair
US20220273552A1 (en) * 2021-02-28 2022-09-01 L'oreal Hair cosmetic compositions
FR3128118A1 (fr) * 2021-10-14 2023-04-21 L'oreal ProceDE de traitement des cheveux comprenant l’application d’une émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant une phase aqueuse, une phase grasse et un polymère
EP3519058B1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2023-06-07 L'oreal Compositions et méthodes de traitement des cheveux

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2018064677A1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions et méthodes de traitement capillaire
US20180092826A1 (en) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 L'oreal Compositions and methods for treating hair
EP3519058B1 (fr) * 2016-09-30 2023-06-07 L'oreal Compositions et méthodes de traitement des cheveux
US20220273552A1 (en) * 2021-02-28 2022-09-01 L'oreal Hair cosmetic compositions
FR3128118A1 (fr) * 2021-10-14 2023-04-21 L'oreal ProceDE de traitement des cheveux comprenant l’application d’une émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant une phase aqueuse, une phase grasse et un polymère

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