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WO2025163026A1 - Two-phase composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms - Google Patents

Two-phase composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms

Info

Publication number
WO2025163026A1
WO2025163026A1 PCT/EP2025/052320 EP2025052320W WO2025163026A1 WO 2025163026 A1 WO2025163026 A1 WO 2025163026A1 EP 2025052320 W EP2025052320 W EP 2025052320W WO 2025163026 A1 WO2025163026 A1 WO 2025163026A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
fagus
plant
relative
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2025/052320
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Gaelle Brun
Céline PRIGENT
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2025163026A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025163026A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0233Distinct layers, e.g. core/shell sticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of the care of keratin materials, in particular skin care.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.
  • compositions constituted of two distinct phases, especially an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified one in the other at rest are generally denoted by the term "two-phase compositions". They differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one in the other.
  • the use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, the latter having to be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material where it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate rapidly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term "phase separation” or "demixing".
  • a relatively rapid demixing of the two phases and also a clearly defined interface between the two phases after their use constitutes one of the desired qualities of two-phase compositions. Specifically, obtaining clearly defined and rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, particularly since poor separation of the two phases is perceived by users as being unaesthetic.
  • demixing may be more or less compromised with the appearance of a poor quality interface, in particular with the formation of whorls at this interface.
  • compositions constituted of two distinct immiscible phases integrating cosmetic active agents of plant extract type, comprising little or no ethanol and exhibiting good demixing qualities resulting in a clearly defined interface and the absence of whorls in the aqueous phase.
  • the aim of the present invention is to solve the abovementioned technical problems.
  • a composition, in particular cosmetic composition constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract such as an extract of Fagus sylvatica buds, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as caprylyl glycol, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition, makes it possible to ensure a good demixing quality, in particular by obtaining a clearly defined interface between the two phases and by the absence of whorls in the aqueous phase.
  • composition according to the invention additionally exhibits desquamating properties.
  • composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the radiance of the skin, the homogeneity of the complexion, and the softness of the skin, and to reduce the size of the pores of the skin.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a second subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials.
  • a third subject of the present invention is the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.
  • keratin materials is understood to mean the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the nails, and the hair, of a human being.
  • skin is understood to mean all of the skin of the body and the scalp of a human being and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, and hands, or even more preferably still the skin of the face (in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, lips and chin), neckline and neck.
  • cosmetic composition is understood to mean a composition which is particularly suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • treat and “treatment” are understood to denote the alleviation of the symptoms associated with a specific condition and/or the elimination of said symptoms and also the complete disappearance of the condition in question.
  • prevent and "prevention” denote the reduction, to a lesser degree, of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.
  • topical use or application is understood to mean the use or application on/to the surface of the keratin materials in question, preferably on/to the surface of the skin in question.
  • care is understood to mean non-therapeutic care capable of producing an aesthetic effect without, however, preventing or correcting a pathological dysfunction of the skin.
  • surfactant is understood to mean an amphiphilic molecule, i.e. having two parts of different polarity, one generally being lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase), and the other being hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water).
  • Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • the term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).
  • the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions.
  • the HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
  • surfactants there are anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, especially alkyl glycosides such as decyl glucoside, and amphoteric surfactants.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition not comprising ethanol.
  • the ratio by weight between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 50/50 and 99/1, more preferentially between 70/30 and 99/1, and better still between 80/20 and 98/2.
  • composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of surfactant, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight of surfactant; better still, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactant (0%).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of alkyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of alkyl glucoside, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight of alkyl glucoside; better still, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of alkyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is completely free of alkyl glucoside (0%).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of decyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of decyl glucoside, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight of decyl glucoside; better still, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of decyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is completely free of decyl glucoside (0%).
  • composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of ethanol, more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight of ethanol; better still, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of ethanol (0%).
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one plant extract.
  • Said plant extract used in the composition according to the invention has one or more cosmetic activities; preferably, said plant extract has an activity of desquamating keratin materials, preferably the skin.
  • said plant extract comprises at least one compound chosen from amino acids, lipids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one compound chosen from amino acids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof.
  • said plant extract is a plant extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae.
  • the family of the Fagaceae formerly Cupuliferae, groups together dicotyledonous plants; it comprises 7 to 9 genera, the best known being Castanea (chestnut), Fagus (beech), and Quercus (oak).
  • Fagus (beech) includes around ten species of beech in Europe, Asia and America. The most widespread species in Europe is Fagus sylvatica .
  • said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae; preferably, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus ; more preferentially, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata , Fagus engleriana , Fagus grandifolia , Fagus hayatae , Fagus japonica , Fagus longipetiolata , Fagus lucida , Fagus orientalis , Fagus sinensis , and Fagus sylvatica ; better still, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica , such as Fagus sylvatica L.
  • said plant extract is an extract of a plant part chosen from the bark, the leaves, the branches, and the buds, preferably the buds.
  • said plant extract is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica .
  • said plant extract is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L.
  • Said plant extract may be obtained from a preliminary step of stabilization, in particular by Ultra High Frequency (UHF), of the harvested plant or plant part, preferably the buds, such as that described in European patent EP 0470017 (Gattefossé SA, corresponding to the American patent US 6270773, Pourrat et al.), having the title: Process for stabilizing vegetable plants.
  • UHF Ultra High Frequency
  • This stabilization step thus makes it possible to guarantee that the composition of the final extract is the same as that of the fresh plant.
  • plant extract suitable for the invention mention may be made of aqueous extracts, alcoholic extracts or extracts using an organic solvent.
  • said plant extract is an aqueous extract.
  • said plant extract is a mixture of several plant extracts.
  • aqueous solvent is understood to mean any solvent constituted totally or partially of water. Mention may thus be made of water itself, aqueous-alcoholic solvents in any proportion or also solvents constituted of water and a compound such as propylene glycol in any proportion. Among the alcoholic solvents, mention may in particular be made of ethanol.
  • the extraction may be performed at ambient temperature, under cold conditions or by heating between 40°C and 100°C.
  • An extraction method suitable for the invention may comprise a first step of grinding a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, preferably of the family of the Fagaceae, more preferentially a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, of the genus Fagus , better still a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, of the species Fagus sylvatica , in an aqueous solution under cold conditions, followed by a second step of removing suspended particles from the aqueous solution resulting from the first step, and a third step of sterilizing the aqueous solution resulting from the second step.
  • This aqueous solution corresponds to an extract.
  • the extract obtained may then be freeze dried by any conventional freeze drying methods.
  • a powder is thus obtained, which may be used directly or else mixed in an appropriate solvent before use.
  • Mention may for example be made of an extract of beech tree buds ( Fagus sylvatica ) such as the one sold under the name Gatuline RC SPO Bio® by the company Gattefossé.
  • Said at least one plant extract may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 2% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by dry weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.02% to 0.5% by dry weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises glycolic acid.
  • Glycolic acid belongs to the chemical family of the ⁇ -hydroxy acids.
  • Glycolic Acid 70% (70% glycolic acid in water) by the company Guangan Chengxin Chemical.
  • the glycolic acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content of at least 0.5% by weight, better still in a content of at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the glycolic acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • diol is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a diol suitable for the invention is a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compound having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and bearing two –OH functions on the alkyl chain.
  • a diol that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a linear alkyl-type compound having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and bearing two –OH functions on the alkyl chain.
  • the diols that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear diols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably those chosen from propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially those chosen from pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof, better still those chosen from pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • said diol is caprylyl glycol.
  • caprylyl glycol sold under the name A-Leen 8® by the company Minasolve.
  • Said diol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise, in addition to the abovementioned compounds, water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvents.
  • compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition according to the invention has a content of water ranging from 20% to 98% by weight, better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention has a content of water ranging from 75% to 98% by weight, better still from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • alcohols in particular monovalent alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols other than those mentioned above; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and glycerol.
  • monovalent alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol
  • diols other than those mentioned above and ethers
  • ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and glycerol.
  • the water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention preferably has a pH ranging from 3.0 to 7.0, more preferentially from 3.5 to 6.5, and better still from 4.0 to 5.5.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil, and optionally other fatty substances such as pasty and/or solid fatty substances.
  • the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 40% of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • oil denotes a water-immiscible compound which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • miscible is understood to mean that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is performed by eye or using a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (as a guide, 200 to 1000 rpm), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is understood to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon-based oil thus consequently does not comprise any silicon or fluorine atoms.
  • silicon oil denotes an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
  • fluoro oil denotes an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil is understood to mean a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is preferably non-aromatic (also called a hydrocarbon).
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil denotes hydrocarbon-based oils mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils.
  • volatile oil is understood to mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile oils are such that the flash points are less than 120°C and the vapour pressure is less than 5 Pa; more particularly, their flash point is less than 90°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 1 Pa; even more preferentially, their flash point is less than or equal to 60°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 5 Pa; and more preferentially still, their flash point is less than 60°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 100 Pa.
  • the volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as
  • hydrocarbon-based oils having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular:
  • C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as C8-C9 Isoparaffin, C13-C16 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example sold by Ineos, more preferentially isododecane;
  • isoalkanes also known as isoparaffins
  • isodoparaffins also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane
  • isododecane also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane
  • esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example sold by Solvay, Dow or Oxea;
  • R'1-O-C(O)-O-R'2 volatile carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R'1-O-C(O)-O-R'2, in which R'1 and R'2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R'1 and R'2 to be identical.
  • R'1 and R'2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group.
  • the carbonate hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate and dipentyl carbonate;
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched C4-C8 alkyl group. It is preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical.
  • Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a butyl group and a pentyl group.
  • Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group.
  • the volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile silicone oils such as:
  • silicone oils comprising, in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • dodecamethylpentasiloxane such as the reference DM-Fluid-2cs sold by Shin-Etsu
  • cyclohexadimethylsiloxane such as the reference Xiameter PMX-0246 Cyclohexasiloxane sold by Dow Chemical.
  • non-volatile oil is understood to mean an oil having a vapour pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.
  • the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).
  • the non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural origin.
  • non-volatile oils mention may be made of:
  • non-volatile fluoro oils which may in particular be chosen from among fluorinated polyethers, and also from fluorosilicone oils and fluoro silicones as described in document EP-A-847752;
  • non-volatile silicone oils which may in particular be chosen from the non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof.
  • non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which may in particular be chosen from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance: i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, or isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30 and more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as the mixtures having for example the following INCI names: (C15-C19)Alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by Seppic, Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance the products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name HYD
  • non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils which may be chosen from:
  • the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof;
  • o triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and particularly from C18 to C36, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; by way of example, mention may particularly be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; plant oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil
  • R-C(O)-OR' in which R-C(O)-O- represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10.
  • esters mention may for example be made of isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, coco caprylate/caprate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters,
  • o hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate
  • o aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyloctyl salicylate; linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
  • o esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);
  • polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, with preference a C6-C18 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical.
  • Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.
  • Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group,
  • Cyclic alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • dicaprylyl ether such as the reference Cetiol OE sold by BASF;
  • o carbonates of formula R8-O-C(O)-O-R9 with R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially C6 to C10 alkyl chain;
  • the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company BASF, bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, sold under the name Tegosoft DEC® by the company Evonik, dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol 4 AII from BASF), dibutyl carbonate; dineopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; dineoheptyl carbonate; diheptyl carbonate; diisononyl carbonate; or dinonyl carbonate, and preferably dioctyl carbonate;
  • vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name);
  • o higher C6-C26 fatty acids which are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C), such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; and
  • the oil is a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, or isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30 and more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as mixtures having for example the following INCI names: (C15-C19)Alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by Seppic, Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance the products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE
  • the oil is a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular of natural origin, chosen from ii) squalane such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, or isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30 and more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as mixtures having for example the following INCI names: (C15-C19)Alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by Seppic, Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, and viii) mixtures thereof.
  • squalane such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, or isoeicosane
  • mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons particularly C14-C30 and more particularly C15-C28 hydro
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise other compounds different from those mentioned above.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise additional ⁇ -hydroxy acids different from glycolic acid.
  • the additional ⁇ -hydroxy acids may be chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably, said additional ⁇ -hydroxy acids are chosen from lactic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof; more preferably said additional ⁇ -hydroxy acid is lactic acid.
  • lactic acid sold under the name PURAC UltraPure (90% lactic acid in water) by the company Corbion Produtos Renovaveis.
  • the additional ⁇ -hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one ⁇ -hydroxy acid.
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids are chosen from salicylic acid and the salicylic acid derivatives of the following formula (I):
  • said groups may be substituted with one or more identical or different substituents chosen from: (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • - Rb is a hydroxyl group
  • the radical Ra denotes:
  • hydrocarbon-based chains may be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms; (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • substituents which may be identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms; (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • the compounds that are more particularly preferred are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group.
  • the compounds of formula (I) that are particularly preferred mention may be made of: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.
  • the salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid will more particularly be used.
  • 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid) is provided under the name Mexoryl SAB® by Chimex.
  • mineral bases examples include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide.
  • organic bases mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance those described in the patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous.
  • the compounds of formula (I) that can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6 159 479, US 5 558 871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP A-570 230.
  • said ⁇ -hydroxy acid is salicylic acid such as that sold under the name Salicylic Acid by the company JQC (Huayin) Pharmaceutical.
  • Said ⁇ -hydroxy acid and/or the derivatives thereof may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.001% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (II)
  • R represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.
  • alkyl radical is understood to mean a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 7 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl radical is not substituted.
  • the alkyl radical is saturated and cyclic or linear.
  • the alkyl radical is the cyclohexyl radical.
  • n is an integer between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7.
  • n 6.
  • the phosphonic derivatives of formula (II) are such that R represents a saturated and cyclic or linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7, such as 6.
  • the phosphonic derivative of formula (II) is phytic acid.
  • Said phosphonic derivative may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • any additive usually used in the field concerned for example chosen from antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is in the form of a two-phase composition, more preferentially still in the form of a two-phase lotion.
  • two-phase composition is understood to mean a composition constituted of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified one in the other at rest. They differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one in the other.
  • the use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, the latter having to be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material where it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate rapidly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term "phase separation” or "demixing".
  • composition may comprise any constituent normally employed in the topical application and administration envisaged.
  • composition is preferably employed, in the context of a use or a method for treatment according to the invention, topically.
  • compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin.
  • cosmetic supports mention may be made in particular of a patch, a piece of cotton wool or a wipe.
  • composition may or may not be rinsed off after having been applied to the skin; preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed off after having been applied to the skin.
  • the cosmetic compositions covered by the invention may be face care or body care products.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions intended for skin care.
  • compositions may therefore be intended to be applied to the skin.
  • the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials.
  • the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for treating and/or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and/or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for treating and/or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and/or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.
  • a cosmetic use of the invention thus only addresses aesthetic flaws of the skin, and therefore does not exert any therapeutic effect.
  • the present invention is directed to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care use of an, in particular cosmetic, composition according to the invention.
  • the methods and uses implemented in the context of the present invention also relate to desquamation of the skin, improvement of the radiance of the skin, improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion, improvement of the softness of the skin, decrease in the roughness of the skin, decrease in skin microrelief, decrease in the size of the pores of the skin.
  • compositions are prepared according to the usual methods of formulating cosmetic compositions.
  • compositions of the aqueous phases Compositions of the aqueous phases
  • glycolic acid sold under the name Glycolic Acid 70% by the company Guangan Chengxin Chemical containing 70% by weight active material in water.
  • caprylyl glycol sold under the name A-Leen 8 by the company Minasolve containing 100% by weight active material.
  • salicylic acid sold under the name Salicylic Acid by the company JQC (Huayin) Pharmaceutical containing 100% by weight active material.
  • compositions of the oily phases are provided.
  • ISONONYL ISONONANOATE sold under the name DUB ININ by the company Stéarinerie Dubois containing 100% by weight active material.
  • VITIS VINIFERA SEED OIL sold under the name Huile de Pépins de Raisin Raffinée et Stabil93 [Refined and Stabilized Grapeseed Oil] by the company Huilerie De Lapalisse containing 99.6% by weight active material.
  • the two-phase lotion-type composition according to the invention was prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for those skilled in the art.
  • the quality of the interface is evaluated. To do so, the bottle is tilted onto its side to evaluate the amount of whorls that pass from the interface to the aqueous phase.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, and also to the use of said composition for the care of keratin materials.

Description

Two-phase composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms
The present invention relates to the field of the care of keratin materials, in particular skin care.
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.
Prior art
Compositions constituted of two distinct phases, especially an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified one in the other at rest, are generally denoted by the term "two-phase compositions". They differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one in the other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, the latter having to be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material where it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate rapidly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term "phase separation" or "demixing".
A relatively rapid demixing of the two phases and also a clearly defined interface between the two phases after their use constitutes one of the desired qualities of two-phase compositions. Specifically, obtaining clearly defined and rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, particularly since poor separation of the two phases is perceived by users as being unaesthetic.
Moreover, depending on the cosmetic active agents used in these two-phase compositions, such as plant extracts, demixing may be more or less compromised with the appearance of a poor quality interface, in particular with the formation of whorls at this interface.
One solution known to those skilled in the art is the addition of ethanol to this type of two-phase composition. However, the use of ethanol in cosmetic compositions is less appreciated by consumers, especially those having reactive or sensitive skin.
Thus, there remains the need for novel two-phase compositions constituted of two distinct immiscible phases integrating cosmetic active agents of plant extract type, comprising little or no ethanol and exhibiting good demixing qualities resulting in a clearly defined interface and the absence of whorls in the aqueous phase.
Disclosure of the invention
The aim of the present invention is to solve the abovementioned technical problems.
The applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract such as an extract of Fagus sylvatica buds, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as caprylyl glycol, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition, makes it possible to ensure a good demixing quality, in particular by obtaining a clearly defined interface between the two phases and by the absence of whorls in the aqueous phase.
The composition according to the invention additionally exhibits desquamating properties.
The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the radiance of the skin, the homogeneity of the complexion, and the softness of the skin, and to reduce the size of the pores of the skin.
Summary of the invention
A first subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.
A second subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials.
A third subject of the present invention is the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.
Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the detailed description that follows.
Definitions
The term "keratin materials" is understood to mean the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the nails, and the hair, of a human being.
The term "skin" is understood to mean all of the skin of the body and the scalp of a human being and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, and hands, or even more preferably still the skin of the face (in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, lips and chin), neckline and neck.
The term "cosmetic composition" is understood to mean a composition which is particularly suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are understood to denote the alleviation of the symptoms associated with a specific condition and/or the elimination of said symptoms and also the complete disappearance of the condition in question.
In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" denote the reduction, to a lesser degree, of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.
The term "topical use or application" is understood to mean the use or application on/to the surface of the keratin materials in question, preferably on/to the surface of the skin in question.
The term "care" is understood to mean non-therapeutic care capable of producing an aesthetic effect without, however, preventing or correcting a pathological dysfunction of the skin.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" is understood to mean an amphiphilic molecule, i.e. having two parts of different polarity, one generally being lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase), and the other being hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
Among the surfactants, there are anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, especially alkyl glycosides such as decyl glucoside, and amphoteric surfactants.
Detailed description Composition
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition not comprising ethanol.
Preferably, the ratio by weight between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 50/50 and 99/1, more preferentially between 70/30 and 99/1, and better still between 80/20 and 98/2.
The composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of surfactant, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight of surfactant; better still, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactant (0%).
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of alkyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of alkyl glucoside, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight of alkyl glucoside; better still, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of alkyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of alkyl glucoside (0%).
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of decyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of decyl glucoside, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight of decyl glucoside; better still, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of decyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of decyl glucoside (0%).
The composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of ethanol, more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight of ethanol; better still, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of ethanol (0%).
Plant extract
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one plant extract.
Said plant extract used in the composition according to the invention has one or more cosmetic activities; preferably, said plant extract has an activity of desquamating keratin materials, preferably the skin.
Advantageously, said plant extract comprises at least one compound chosen from amino acids, lipids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one compound chosen from amino acids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, said plant extract is a plant extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae.
The family of the Fagaceae, formerly Cupuliferae, groups together dicotyledonous plants; it comprises 7 to 9 genera, the best known being Castanea (chestnut), Fagus (beech), and Quercus (oak).
More particularly, the genus Fagus (beech) includes around ten species of beech in Europe, Asia and America. The most widespread species in Europe is Fagus sylvatica.
Advantageously, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae; preferably, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus; more preferentially, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata, Fagus engleriana, Fagus grandifolia, Fagus hayatae, Fagus japonica, Fagus longipetiolata, Fagus lucida, Fagus orientalis, Fagus sinensis, and Fagus sylvatica; better still, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica, such as Fagus sylvatica L.
Advantageously, said plant extract is an extract of a plant part chosen from the bark, the leaves, the branches, and the buds, preferably the buds.
More preferentially, said plant extract is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica.
More preferentially still, said plant extract is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L.
Said plant extract may be obtained from a preliminary step of stabilization, in particular by Ultra High Frequency (UHF), of the harvested plant or plant part, preferably the buds, such as that described in European patent EP 0470017 (Gattefossé SA, corresponding to the American patent US 6270773, Pourrat et al.), having the title: Process for stabilizing vegetable plants.
This stabilization step thus makes it possible to guarantee that the composition of the final extract is the same as that of the fresh plant.
Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art may be used to prepare an extract according to the invention.
As plant extract suitable for the invention, mention may be made of aqueous extracts, alcoholic extracts or extracts using an organic solvent.
Preferably, said plant extract is an aqueous extract.
Preferably, said plant extract is a mixture of several plant extracts.
The term "aqueous solvent" is understood to mean any solvent constituted totally or partially of water. Mention may thus be made of water itself, aqueous-alcoholic solvents in any proportion or also solvents constituted of water and a compound such as propylene glycol in any proportion. Among the alcoholic solvents, mention may in particular be made of ethanol.
The extraction may be performed at ambient temperature, under cold conditions or by heating between 40°C and 100°C.
An extraction method suitable for the invention may comprise a first step of grinding a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, preferably of the family of the Fagaceae, more preferentially a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, of the genus Fagus, better still a plant or part of a plant, such as the buds, of the species Fagus sylvatica, in an aqueous solution under cold conditions, followed by a second step of removing suspended particles from the aqueous solution resulting from the first step, and a third step of sterilizing the aqueous solution resulting from the second step. This aqueous solution corresponds to an extract.
The extract obtained may then be freeze dried by any conventional freeze drying methods. A powder is thus obtained, which may be used directly or else mixed in an appropriate solvent before use.
Mention may for example be made of an extract of beech tree buds (Fagus sylvatica) such as the one sold under the name Gatuline RC SPO Bio® by the company Gattefossé.
Said at least one plant extract may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 2% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by dry weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.02% to 0.5% by dry weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Glycolic acid
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises glycolic acid.
Glycolic acid belongs to the chemical family of the α-hydroxy acids.
Mention may in particular be made of the glycolic acid sold under the name Glycolic Acid 70% (70% glycolic acid in water) by the company Guangan Chengxin Chemical.
The glycolic acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content of at least 0.5% by weight, better still in a content of at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The glycolic acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising two free hydroxyl groups.
A diol suitable for the invention is a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compound having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and bearing two –OH functions on the alkyl chain. Preferably, a diol that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a linear alkyl-type compound having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and bearing two –OH functions on the alkyl chain.
The diols that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear diols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably those chosen from propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially those chosen from pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof, better still those chosen from pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, said diol is caprylyl glycol.
Mention may for example be made of the caprylyl glycol sold under the name A-Leen 8® by the company Minasolve.
Said diol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase may comprise, in addition to the abovementioned compounds, water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvents.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition.
Preferentially, the composition according to the invention has a content of water ranging from 20% to 98% by weight, better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a content of water ranging from 75% to 98% by weight, better still from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Among the water-miscible (at ambient temperature - 25°C) organic solvents, mention may be made of alcohols, in particular monovalent alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols other than those mentioned above; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and glycerol.
The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH ranging from 3.0 to 7.0, more preferentially from 3.5 to 6.5, and better still from 4.0 to 5.5.
Fatty phase
The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil, and optionally other fatty substances such as pasty and/or solid fatty substances.
According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 40% of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of fatty substance, preferably oil(s), by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" denotes a water-immiscible compound which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
The term "immiscible" is understood to mean that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is performed by eye or using a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (as a guide, 200 to 1000 rpm), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon-based oil thus consequently does not comprise any silicon or fluorine atoms.
The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
The term "fluoro oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term "non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is preferably non-aromatic (also called a hydrocarbon).
The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" denotes hydrocarbon-based oils mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils.
Volatile oils
The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
According to one embodiment of the invention, the volatile oils are such that the flash points are less than 120°C and the vapour pressure is less than 5 Pa; more particularly, their flash point is less than 90°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 1 Pa; even more preferentially, their flash point is less than or equal to 60°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 5 Pa; and more preferentially still, their flash point is less than 60°C and their vapour pressure is greater than 100 Pa.
The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as
hydrocarbon-based oils having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular:
- branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as C8-C9 Isoparaffin, C13-C16 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example sold by Ineos, more preferentially isododecane;
- linear C6-C16 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 by the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof, and also mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as Cetiol Ultimate® from the company BASF;
- - volatile, non-aromatic, cyclic C5-C12 alkanes;
- short-chain esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example sold by Solvay, Dow or Oxea;
- volatile carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R'1-O-C(O)-O-R'2, in which R'1 and R'2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R'1 and R'2 to be identical. Preferably, R'1 and R'2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the carbonate hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate and dipentyl carbonate;
- volatile ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched C4-C8 alkyl group. It is preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a butyl group and a pentyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group.
The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile silicone oils such as:
silicone oils comprising, in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Mention may particularly be made of dodecamethylpentasiloxane, such as the reference DM-Fluid-2cs sold by Shin-Etsu, or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, such as the reference Xiameter PMX-0246 Cyclohexasiloxane sold by Dow Chemical.
Non-volatile oils
The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapour pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).
The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural origin.
Among the non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:
- non-volatile fluoro oils, which may in particular be chosen from among fluorinated polyethers, and also from fluorosilicone oils and fluoro silicones as described in document EP-A-847752;
- non-volatile silicone oils, which may in particular be chosen from the non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof.
These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or as mixtures;
- non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may in particular be chosen from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance: i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, or isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30 and more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as the mixtures having for example the following INCI names: (C15-C19)Alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by Seppic, Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance the products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE; v) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, vi) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Puresyn® range sold by the company ExxonMobil), vii) decene/butene copolymers, butene/isobutene copolymers, and viii) mixtures thereof;
- non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be chosen from:
o saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, which are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C), preferably monoalcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof;
o triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and particularly from C18 to C36, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; by way of example, mention may particularly be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; plant oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, argan oil, passionflower oil, kaya oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter; and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and also mixtures thereof;
o linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula R-C(O)-OR' in which R-C(O)-O- represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10. As examples of such esters, mention may for example be made of isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, coco caprylate/caprate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate; and mixtures thereof;
o hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;
o aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyloctyl salicylate; linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
o esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);
o polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;
o synthetic ethers of formula R1-O-R2 in which R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, with preference a C6-C18 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. Cyclic alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Among the non-volatile ether oils, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether, such as the reference Cetiol OE sold by BASF;
o carbonates of formula R8-O-C(O)-O-R9, with R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially C6 to C10 alkyl chain; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company BASF, bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, sold under the name Tegosoft DEC® by the company Evonik, dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol 4 AII from BASF), dibutyl carbonate; dineopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; dineoheptyl carbonate; diheptyl carbonate; diisononyl carbonate; or dinonyl carbonate, and preferably dioctyl carbonate;
o vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name);
o higher C6-C26 fatty acids which are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C), such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; and
o mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil is a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, or isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30 and more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as mixtures having for example the following INCI names: (C15-C19)Alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by Seppic, Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance the products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE; v) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, vi) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Puresyn® range sold by the company ExxonMobil), vii) decene/butene copolymers, butene/isobutene copolymers, and viii) mixtures thereof.
In a yet more preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil is a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular of natural origin, chosen from ii) squalane such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, or isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30 and more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, such as mixtures having for example the following INCI names: (C15-C19)Alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by Seppic, Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, and viii) mixtures thereof.
Additional compounds
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise other compounds different from those mentioned above.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise additional α-hydroxy acids different from glycolic acid.
The additional α-hydroxy acids may be chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably, said additional α-hydroxy acids are chosen from lactic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof; more preferably said additional α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid.
Mention may be made of the lactic acid sold under the name PURAC UltraPure (90% lactic acid in water) by the company Corbion Produtos Renovaveis.
The additional α-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one β-hydroxy acid.
Advantageously, the β-hydroxy acids are chosen from salicylic acid and the salicylic acid derivatives of the following formula (I):
(I)
in which:
- the radical Ra denotes:
- a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms;
- an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated;
- an aromatic ring bonded to the carbonyl radical directly or by means of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms;
it being possible for said groups to be substituted with one or more identical or different substituents chosen from: (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- Rb is a hydroxyl group;
and also the salts thereof derived from a mineral or organic base and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the radical Ra denotes:
- a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; or
- an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds;
it being possible for said hydrocarbon-based chains to be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms; (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
and also the salts thereof obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.
The compounds that are more particularly preferred are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group. Among the compounds of formula (I) that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.
The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid. 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid will more particularly be used. 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid) is provided under the name Mexoryl SAB® by Chimex.
Examples of mineral bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide. Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance those described in the patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous. The compounds of formula (I) that can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6 159 479, US 5 558 871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP A-570 230.
Preferably, said β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid such as that sold under the name Salicylic Acid by the company JQC (Huayin) Pharmaceutical.
Said β-hydroxy acid and/or the derivatives thereof may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.001% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (II)
(II)
where R represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.
An alkyl radical is understood to mean a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 7 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the alkyl radical is not substituted.
More preferentially, the alkyl radical is saturated and cyclic or linear.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl radical is the cyclohexyl radical.
Preferably, n is an integer between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7. Preferably, n = 6.
Preferably, the phosphonic derivatives of formula (II) are such that R represents a saturated and cyclic or linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7, such as 6.
Preferably, the phosphonic derivative of formula (II) is phytic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the compound sold by Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals
under the name "Phytic Acid".
Said phosphonic derivative may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, and mixtures thereof.
Such additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention is in the form of a two-phase composition, more preferentially still in the form of a two-phase lotion.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "two-phase composition" is understood to mean a composition constituted of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified one in the other at rest. They differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one in the other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, the latter having to be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material where it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate rapidly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term "phase separation" or "demixing".
Thus, the composition may comprise any constituent normally employed in the topical application and administration envisaged.
Said composition is preferably employed, in the context of a use or a method for treatment according to the invention, topically.
The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As non-limiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may be made in particular of a patch, a piece of cotton wool or a wipe.
The composition may or may not be rinsed off after having been applied to the skin; preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed off after having been applied to the skin.
Use and method for treatment
The cosmetic compositions covered by the invention may be face care or body care products.
The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions intended for skin care.
These compositions may therefore be intended to be applied to the skin.
According to another of its subjects, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials.
According to another of its subjects, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for treating and/or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and/or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.
A subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.
A subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition according to the invention for treating and/or preventing oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily and/or the associated aesthetic flaws of the skin.
A cosmetic use of the invention thus only addresses aesthetic flaws of the skin, and therefore does not exert any therapeutic effect.
The present invention is directed to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care use of an, in particular cosmetic, composition according to the invention.
The methods and uses implemented in the context of the present invention also relate to desquamation of the skin, improvement of the radiance of the skin, improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion, improvement of the softness of the skin, decrease in the roughness of the skin, decrease in skin microrelief, decrease in the size of the pores of the skin.
Throughout the patent application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising an" means "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
Throughout the above description, unless otherwise mentioned, the term "between x and y" or "ranging from x to y" corresponds to an inclusive range, that is to say that the values x and y are included in the range.
In addition, the expression "at least one" should be understood as being synonymous with "one or more", unless otherwise specified.
The invention will be illustrated in the non-limiting examples that follow. Unless otherwise stated, the % are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods of formulating cosmetic compositions.
The examples that follow are presented as nonlimiting illustrations of the invention. The compounds are, depending on the case, cited as the chemical names or as the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow.
Example - Evaluation of the interface quality of compositions according to the invention vs. comparative compositions
A- Composition of the different phases of the two-phase composition
Compositions of the aqueous phases
(1) extract of beech tree buds (Fagus sylvatica) sold under the name Gatuline RC SPO Bio® by the company Gattefossé containing 1.2% by weight active material in water (98.5%) and sorbic acid (0.1%) and benzoic acid (0.2%).
(2) lactic acid sold under the name PURAC by the company Corbion Produtos Renovaveis containing 90% by weight active material in water.
(3) glycolic acid sold under the name Glycolic Acid 70% by the company Guangan Chengxin Chemical containing 70% by weight active material in water.
(4) caprylyl glycol sold under the name A-Leen 8 by the company Minasolve containing 100% by weight active material.
(5) salicylic acid sold under the name Salicylic Acid by the company JQC (Huayin) Pharmaceutical containing 100% by weight active material.
(6) phytic acid sold by Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals under the name Phytic Acid containing 50% by weight active material in water.
The various aqueous phase compositions mentioned above were prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for those skilled in the art.
Compositions of the oily phases
(7) C15-19 Alkane sold under the name Emogreen L15 by the company Seppic containing 100% by weight active material.
(8) ISONONYL ISONONANOATE sold under the name DUB ININ by the company Stéarinerie Dubois containing 100% by weight active material.
(9) VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL sold under the name Huile de Pépins de Raisin Raffinée et Stabilisée [Refined and Stabilized Grapeseed Oil] by the company Huilerie De Lapalisse containing 99.6% by weight active material.
The various oily phase compositions mentioned above were prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for those skilled in the art.
Preparation of the two-phase compositions
The two-phase lotion-type composition according to the invention was prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for those skilled in the art.
B- Results: Evaluation of the quality of the interfaces of the various two-phase compositions
Evaluation protocol:
After bringing the two phases into contact in a glass bottle; the bottle is shaken 10 times.
24 hours after shaking, the quality of the interface is evaluated. To do so, the bottle is tilted onto its side to evaluate the amount of whorls that pass from the interface to the aqueous phase.
The amount of whorls obtained with the various two-phase compositions was evaluated:
Conclusion: the results of these tests show a significant improvement in the interface by virtue of the combination of glycolic acid and caprylyl glycol for the compositions which do not comprise ethanol.

Claims (15)

  1. Composition, in particular cosmetic composition, constituted of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, these phases being distinct, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.
  2. Composition according to Claim 1, wherein said plant extract comprises at least one compound chosen from amino acids, lipids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof.
  3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein said plant extract comprises at least one compound chosen from amino acids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof.
  4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the family of the Fagaceae; preferably, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus; more preferentially, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata, Fagus engleriana, Fagus grandifolia, Fagus hayatae, Fagus japonica, Fagus longipetiolata, Fagus lucida, Fagus orientalis, Fagus sinensis, and Fagus sylvatica; better still, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica, such as Fagus sylvatica L.
  5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said plant extract is an extract of a plant part chosen from the bark, the leaves, the branches, and the buds; more preferentially, said plant extract is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica; more preferentially still, said plant extract is an extract of one or more buds of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L.
  6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said plant extract is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 2% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by dry weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.02% to 0.5% by dry weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said glycolic acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said glycolic acid is present in the composition in a content of at least 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content of at least 0.5% by weight, better still in a content of at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms is chosen from
    propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably said at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms is chosen from pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof, better still said at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms is caprylyl glycol.
  10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one diol is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of surfactant, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight of surfactant, better still less than 0.001% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition.
  12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of ethanol, more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight of ethanol, better still less than 0.1% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.
  13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio by weight between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 50/50 and 99/1, more preferentially between 70/30 and 99/1, and better still between 80/20 and 98/2.
  14. Method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which is in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, for the care of the keratin materials.
  15. Cosmetic, in particular non-therapeutic, use of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, for the care of keratin materials.
PCT/EP2025/052320 2024-01-31 2025-01-30 Two-phase composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms Pending WO2025163026A1 (en)

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FR2400951A FR3158636A1 (en) 2024-01-31 2024-01-31 Two-phase composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms
FRFR2400951 2024-01-31

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