WO2025145421A1 - Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials - Google Patents
Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials Download PDFInfo
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- WO2025145421A1 WO2025145421A1 PCT/CN2024/070766 CN2024070766W WO2025145421A1 WO 2025145421 A1 WO2025145421 A1 WO 2025145421A1 CN 2024070766 W CN2024070766 W CN 2024070766W WO 2025145421 A1 WO2025145421 A1 WO 2025145421A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/347—Phenols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
- Stilbenoids are hydroxylated derivatives of stilbene, and most stilbenoids are produced from plants.
- the stilbenoids e.g., polydatin and/or derivatives thereof, possess potential biological activities predominantly through the modulation of pivotal signaling pathways involved in inflammation, oxidative stress, and apoptosis.
- polydatin and/or derivatives thereof is a promising ingredient for whitening, anti-inflammation and antioxidation, and thus can be comprised in cosmetic products as an active ingredient.
- cosmetic products it is difficult for such products to be stable against light.
- trans-conformations when exposed to sunlight, trans-conformations may isomerize into cis-conformations and may further cyclize into di-or tri-hydroxyphenanthrene
- the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:
- the present invention relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably skins, comprising applying the above composition onto the keratin materials.
- the present invention relates to use of an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, for improving the photostability of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof comprised in the above composition.
- the expression “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.
- the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no material features or even no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as “consisting essentially of” and “consisting of” ) .
- any additional compositions, materials, and/or components that materially affect the basic and novel characteristics are excluded from such an embodiment, but any compositions, materials and/or components that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics can be included in the embodiment.
- keratin material (s) means skins, nails, or mucous membranes.
- the keratin material (s) means skins.
- composition according to the present invention comprises polydatin and/or derivatives thereof.
- Stilbenoids are attractive antioxidants for use in personal or consumer products due to their high efficacy in quenching reactive oxygen species. Stilbenoids all contain the core structure of stilbene, consisting of two aromatic rings connected by a central alkene.
- Such stilbenoids may include piceatannol originated from the roots of Norway spruces, pinosylvin originated from trees of the pine family, pterostilbene originated from almonds, pine and vaccinium berries, resveratrol originated from grapes, astringin originated from the bark of Norway spruce, and polydatin (or piceid) , called stilbenoid glucosides, originated from fruit juices, especially grape juices, wherein the polydatin (or piceid) is resveratrol-3-O-beta-glucoside, and resveratrol can be produced from polydatin (or piceid) via Aspergillus oryzae. Notably, polydatin is found in much higher content than other stilbenoids in plants and fruit juices.
- Stilbenoids are also known for their photo-instability. When exposed to sunlight or other radiation, the stilbenoids, which are active in trans-conformations, may photoisomerize into cis-conformations, and may further cyclize into dihydroxyphenanthrene or trihydroxyphenanthrene.
- Polydatin may be obtained in raw material reagents that comprise an amount of from less than 50%and up to 99%or greater. Some isolates and extracts can be obtained that contain polydatin which is pure or essentially pure.
- the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof according to the present invention is selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof according to the present invention is selected from polydatin, resveratrol, and a mixture thereof.
- Resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and trans-polydatin have the following structures respectively:
- polydatin and/or derivatives thereof is the polydatin extracted from the root and/or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum, and especially the one sold under the name Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract sold by the company Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients.
- the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention comprises an extract of Eperua falcata.
- the extracts which are preferably obtained from its bark and root, preferably its bark, contain a number of active ingredients, preferably polyphenols.
- the extracts may be prepared by any common method, for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic extraction of the plants or parts thereof, e.g., its bark, root, leaf and/or fruit.
- Suitable extraction processes are any of the common extraction processes.
- the extract of Eperua falcate is derived from the plant Eperua falcata or parts thereof which is preferably selected from bark, root, leaf, fruit, and combinations thereof, and more preferably bark and/or root.
- the extract of Eperua falcata is an extract of Eperua falcata bark, and most preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark sold by BASF Beauty Care Solution under the name Eperuline PW LS 9627.
- the extract of Eperua falcata is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and even more preferably 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrotrope.
- the composition includes two or more hydrotropes.
- the hydrotrope is present in an amount effective to increase transdermal penetration of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof.
- hydrotropes have aromatic structure with an ionic moiety, while some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed below. Although hydrotropes noticeably resemble surfactants and can reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles. Consequently, their hydrophobicity is not sufficient to create well organized self-associated structures, such as micelles, even with a high concentration.
- Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1, 3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycolsulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N, N-diethyl nicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide 3.5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydroch
- Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes refer to hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. While hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications will be limited due to safety and tolerance restrictions. Suitable hydrotropes for use in cosmetics include, but are not limited to, Vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA (sodium salt of pyrrolidone carbonic acid) , sodium salicylate, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea. The suitability of hydrotropes for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined using tests known in the art for determining effects on skin, and toxicity to humans. Although these hydrotropes are given as an example, the artisans understand that other hydrotropes compatible with cosmetic applications may also be used.
- the Vitamin B3 is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, esters or salts thereof, or combinations thereof.
- the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of Vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethyl urea, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the hydrotrope is chosen from niacinamide, caffeine, or a combination thereof. Even more preferably, the hydrotrope is a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.
- the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid for example, that sold under the trademark “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex or by NOVEAL;
- composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nature-based polymer.
- the nature-based polymer is chosen from gums, e.g., natural gums, for example acacia Senegal gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, agar, carob gum, carrageenan (lambda, iota kappa) , gellan gum, guar gum, gum acacia, gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, hydroxypropyl guar, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
- gums e.g., natural gums, for example acacia Senegal gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, agar, carob gum, carrageenan (lambda, iota kappa) , gellan gum, guar gum, gum acacia, gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, hydroxyprop
- the nature-based polymer is xanthan gum.
- the nature-based polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt.%to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one preservative.
- the preservative may be selected from the group consisting of organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammoniums, diols having five or more carbon atoms, isothiazolinones, and combinations thereof.
- the preservative is chosen from phenol derivatives, diol having five or more carbon atoms, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the preservative is chosen from mixtures of a phenol derivative and a diol having five or more carbon atoms.
- the preservative is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 3 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.
- the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C 2 -C 6 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
- water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds for instance C 2 -C 6 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
- polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
- examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol (i.e., glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
- the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C 2 -C 6 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.
- the composition according to the present invention comprises both water, and a C 2 -C 6 polyol, preferably glycerol (i.e. glycerin) .
- glycerol i.e. glycerin
- the C 2 -C 6 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt.%, preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- water is present in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 90 wt. %, and preferably from 30 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in cosmetic products.
- composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: pH adjusting agents, fragrances, chelating agents and actives.
- the composition may comprise at least one active selected from flavonoids, flavoglycosides and peptides.
- actives include hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
- the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
- a person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of the additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
- composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and preferably a skincare composition.
- the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising an extract of Eperua falcata, which can improve the photostability of the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof comprised therein.
- the extract of Eperua falcata and the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof are present in the composition in a weight ratio of 1: 20 to 10: 1, preferably 1: 10 to 5: 1, more preferably 1: 5 to 2: 1, and even more preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1.
- the photostabilizer according to the present invention i.e., an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, is environmentally-friendly, and can effectively improve the photostability of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof in the composition comprising the same.
- composition according to Inventive Example 1 was more stable under light such that 73%of polydatin remained even after the exposure to light.
- composition according to Comparative Example 1 was less stable under light such that the photostability of polydatin was less than 60%.
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Abstract
A composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising: a) polydatin and/or derivatives thereof, and b) an extract of Eperua falcata.
Description
The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
Stilbenoids are hydroxylated derivatives of stilbene, and most stilbenoids are produced from plants. The stilbenoids, e.g., polydatin and/or derivatives thereof, possess potential biological activities predominantly through the modulation of pivotal signaling pathways involved in inflammation, oxidative stress, and apoptosis.
As such, polydatin and/or derivatives thereof is a promising ingredient for whitening, anti-inflammation and antioxidation, and thus can be comprised in cosmetic products as an active ingredient. However, it is difficult for such products to be stable against light. As known by the artisans, when exposed to sunlight, trans-conformations may isomerize into cis-conformations and may further cyclize into di-or tri-hydroxyphenanthrene
In addition, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.
It is therefore preferred to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and/or materials with a good index of naturalness and/or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
Therefore, there is a need for a composition comprising polydatin and/or derivatives thereof, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, which can provide good photostability of the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof, preferably is more sustainable.
The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the composition according to the present invention.
According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:
a) polydatin and/or derivatives thereof, and
b) an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark.
According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably skins, comprising applying the above composition onto the keratin materials.
According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to use of an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, for improving the photostability of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof comprised in the above composition.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions “of between” and “ranging from... to... ” .
The articles “a” and “an” , as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limit is specifically stated. Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more” .
Throughout the present application, the expression “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no material features or even no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as “consisting essentially of” and “consisting of” ) . In the case of “consisting essentially of, ” any additional compositions, materials, and/or components that materially affect the basic and novel characteristics are excluded from such an embodiment, but any compositions, materials and/or components that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics can be included in the embodiment.
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term “about” denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within±5%of the value, e.g., ±3%, ±2%, ±1%,and±0.5%of the value.
The term “keratin material (s) ” , as used herein, means skins, nails, or mucous membranes. Preferably, the keratin material (s) means skins.
Polydatin and/or derivatives thereof
The composition according to the present invention comprises polydatin and/or derivatives thereof.
As a family, stilbenoids are attractive antioxidants for use in personal or consumer products due to their high efficacy in quenching reactive oxygen species. Stilbenoids all contain the core structure of stilbene, consisting of two aromatic rings connected by a central alkene.
Such stilbenoids may include piceatannol originated from the roots of Norway spruces, pinosylvin originated from trees of the pine family, pterostilbene originated from almonds, pine and vaccinium berries, resveratrol originated from grapes, astringin originated from the bark of Norway spruce, and polydatin (or piceid) , called stilbenoid glucosides, originated from fruit juices, especially grape juices, wherein the polydatin (or piceid) is resveratrol-3-O-beta-glucoside, and resveratrol can be produced from polydatin (or piceid) via Aspergillus oryzae. Notably, polydatin is found in much higher content than other stilbenoids in plants and fruit juices.
Stilbenoids are also known for their photo-instability. When exposed to sunlight or other radiation, the stilbenoids, which are active in trans-conformations, may photoisomerize into cis-conformations, and may further cyclize into dihydroxyphenanthrene or trihydroxyphenanthrene.
Polydatin is a stilbenoid found in polygonum cuspidatum, commonly known as Asian knotweed or Japanese knotweed. Preferably, the polydatin is extracted from the root and/or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum and it can also be found in a variety of other sources, such as grape, peanut, hop cones, red wines, hop pellets, cocoa-containing products, chocolate products and many daily diets.
Polydatin may be obtained in raw material reagents that comprise an amount of from less than 50%and up to 99%or greater. Some isolates and extracts can be obtained that contain polydatin which is pure or essentially pure.
Preferably, the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof according to the present invention is selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof according to the present invention is selected from polydatin, resveratrol, and a mixture thereof. Resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and trans-polydatin have the following structures respectively:
More preferably, polydatin and/or derivatives thereof is the polydatin extracted from the root and/or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum, and especially the one sold under the name Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract sold by the company Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients.
Advantageously, the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Extract of Eperua falcata
The composition according to the present invention comprises an extract of Eperua falcata.
Eperua falcata (Aublet) is a tropical tree which grows to a height of 10 to 20 metres and which is found in the rain forests of Guyana, Brazil, Surinam and Venezuela. Botanically, it belongs to the family of Caesalpiniaceae and is also known by the names of
wapa, bois sabre, bioudou, pangapanga, tabaca, walaba or assacu. Synonyms include Dimorpha falcata (J.B. Aublet) J.E. Smith, Panzera falcata (J.B. Aublet) C.L. Wildenow. Eperua falcata has a red-brown, very hard wood and bears dark brown, characteristically shaped fruits.
The extracts, which are preferably obtained from its bark and root, preferably its bark, contain a number of active ingredients, preferably polyphenols.
For an extract of Eperua falcata bark, from a phytochemistry point of view, it contains Dihydroflavonols and catechuic tannins, rich in the following astilbin and engeletin:
The extracts may be prepared by any common method, for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic extraction of the plants or parts thereof, e.g., its bark, root, leaf and/or fruit. Suitable extraction processes are any of the common extraction processes.
As an extract of Eperua falcata that may be suitable for use in the present invention, use may be made, for example, of an extract of Eperua falcata root sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name EperulineTM; an extract of Eperua falcata bark sold by Cognis under the name and an extract of Eperua falcata bark sold by BASF Beauty Care Solution under the name Eperuline PW LS 9627.
Preferably, the extract of Eperua falcate is derived from the plant Eperua falcata or parts thereof which is preferably selected from bark, root, leaf, fruit, and combinations thereof, and more preferably bark and/or root.
More preferably, the extract of Eperua falcata is an extract of Eperua falcata bark, and most preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark sold by BASF Beauty Care Solution under the name Eperuline PW LS 9627.
Advantageously, the extract of Eperua falcata is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from
0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and even more preferably 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hydrotrope
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrotrope.
Preferably, the composition includes two or more hydrotropes. Preferably, the hydrotrope is present in an amount effective to increase transdermal penetration of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof.
Most hydrotropes have aromatic structure with an ionic moiety, while some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed below. Although hydrotropes noticeably resemble surfactants and can reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles. Consequently, their hydrophobicity is not sufficient to create well organized self-associated structures, such as micelles, even with a high concentration.
Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1, 3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycolsulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N, N-diethyl nicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide 3.5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N, N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide, and isoniazid.
Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes refer to hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. While hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications will be limited due to safety and tolerance restrictions. Suitable hydrotropes for use in cosmetics include, but are not limited to, Vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA (sodium salt of pyrrolidone carbonic acid) , sodium salicylate, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea. The suitability of hydrotropes for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined using tests known in the art for determining effects on skin, and toxicity to humans. Although these hydrotropes are given as an example, the artisans understand that other hydrotropes compatible with cosmetic applications may also be used. Preferably, the
Vitamin B3 is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, esters or salts thereof, or combinations thereof.
Preferably, the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of Vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethyl urea, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the hydrotrope is chosen from niacinamide, caffeine, or a combination thereof. Even more preferably, the hydrotrope is a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.
Advantageously, the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
UV filter
According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one UV filter.
Regarding the UV filter, mention can be made of organic and inorganic/mineral UV filters. In some instances, the organic UV filter is selected from homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, octinoxate and combinations thereof. In some instances, the inorganic/mineral UV filter is selected from ZnO, TiO2, and a combination thereof.
Preferably, the UV filter is selected from biobased UV filters.
The term "biobased UV filter" means a UV filter which originates from renewable natural sources.
According to the present invention, the biobased UV filter maybe chosen from benzylidene camphor derivatives. One or more benzylidene camphor derivatives may be used in the composition according to the present invention. Thus, a single benzylidene camphor derivative or a combination of different benzylidene camphor derivatives may be used.
As examples of benzylidene camphor derivatives, mention can be made of:
3-benzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the trademark “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex;
4-methylbenzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck;
benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, for example, that sold under the trademark “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex;
camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, for example, that sold under the trademark “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex;
terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, for example, that sold under the trademark “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex or by NOVEAL; and
polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the trademark “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.
According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one benzylidene camphor derivative selected from 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, and combinations thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.
Advantageously, the UV filter is present in an amount of from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 2 wt. %and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Nature-based polymer
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nature-based polymer.
Regarding nature-based polymers, mention may be made broadly of polysaccharides. Preferably, the nature-based polymer is chosen from gums, e.g., natural gums, for example acacia Senegal gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, agar, carob gum, carrageenan (lambda, iota kappa) , gellan gum, guar gum, gum acacia, gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, hydroxypropyl guar, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the nature-based polymer is xanthan gum.
Advantageously, the nature-based polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt.%to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preservative
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one preservative.
The preservative may be selected from the group consisting of organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammoniums, diols having five or more carbon atoms, isothiazolinones, and combinations thereof.
Preferably, the preservative is chosen from phenol derivatives, diol having five or more carbon atoms, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the preservative is chosen from mixtures of a phenol derivative and a diol having five or more carbon atoms.
More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol.
Advantageously, the preservative is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 3 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous solvent
The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.
Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C2-C6 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol (i.e., glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
Preferably, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C6 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.
More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water, and a C2-C6 polyol, preferably glycerol (i.e. glycerin) .
Advantageously, the C2-C6 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt.%, preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 90 wt. %, and preferably from 30 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional ingredients
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in cosmetic products.
The composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: pH adjusting agents, fragrances, chelating agents and actives.
According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one active selected from flavonoids, flavoglycosides and peptides. Representative examples of said actives include hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of the additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
Composition
The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and preferably a skincare composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising an extract of Eperua falcata, which can improve the photostability of the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof comprised therein.
Preferably, the extract of Eperua falcata and the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof are present in the composition in a weight ratio of 1: 20 to 10: 1, preferably 1: 10 to 5: 1, more preferably 1: 5 to 2: 1, and even more preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1.
The photostabilizer according to the present invention, i.e., an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, is environmentally-friendly, and can effectively improve the photostability of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof in the composition comprising the same.
Preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
a) 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof,
b) 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %of an extract of Eperua falcata, and optionally
c) 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one UV filter.
More preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
a) 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof, selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin, and mixtures thereof,
b) 0.05 wt. %to 8 wt. %of an extract of Eperua falcate derived from the plant Eperua falcata or parts thereof which is preferably selected from bark, root, leaf, fruit, and combinations thereof, and optionally
c) 0.01 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one benzylidene camphor derivative.
Even more preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
a) 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %of polydatin,
b) 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of an extract of Eperua falcata bark, and optionally
c) 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.
Process and use
The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as skins, by being applied onto the keratin materials.
The composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, preferably using a finger or a palm.
According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably skins, comprising applying the above composition onto the keratin materials, and optionally massaging the skin for 2 seconds to 20 seconds.
According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to use of an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, for improving the photostability of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof comprised in the above composition.
Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of Vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethyl urea, and combinations thereof, more preferably at least one hydrotrope chosen from niacinamide, caffeine, and a combination thereof, and even more preferably a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.
The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof were listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Comparative Example 1 and Inventive Example 1
The compositions according to comparative example (CE. ) 1 and inventive example (Ex. ) 1 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 2 were prepared, with all amounts expressed by percentages by weight of active matter with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated as raw material (RM) .
Table 2
Preparation process
The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the following steps:
1) adding the materials of Phase A into a container, and heating the resulted mixture at a temperature of 85℃ with stirring till fully dissolved;
2) adding the materials of Phase B into the container at a temperature of 65℃ with stirring till fully dissolved;
3) adding the materials of Phase C into the container at a temperature of 35℃ with stirring till fully dissolved;
4) adding the materials of Phase D into the container at a temperature of 35℃ till fully dissolved, in order to obtain the final composition.
Test method
Each of the compositions according to Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was spread on eight glass plates with the amount of 2 mg/cm2. For each composition, four of the eight glass plates were placed under Xenon light, while the other four glass plates were placed without Xenon light. Each glass plate was left for 20 minutes at a temperature of 40℃. Then, each of the glass plate was immersed into 30 ml methanol separately and each of the respective methanol solution was sonicated for 15 minutes to extract polydatin. Each of the resulted methanol solutions was measured by HPLC (reverse phase) to quantify the residual amount of polydatin. The residual amounts of polydatin in the four glass plates placed under Xenon light were averaged to obtain the polydatin (%) with Xe light. The residual amount of polydatin in the four glass plates placed without Xenon light were averaged to obtain the polydatin (%) without Xe light. The photostability of polydatin for each composition was calculated by the following equation:
Photostability (%) = (polydatin (%) with Xe light) / (polydatin (%) without Xe light)
The composition according to Inventive Example 1 was more stable under light such that 73%of polydatin remained even after the exposure to light.
The composition according to Comparative Example 1 was less stable under light such that the photostability of polydatin was less than 60%.
Performance of the compositions
Table 3
Photostability (%) of 60%or less is taken as failure for stabilizing polydatin.
From the data in Table 3, the extract of Eperua falcata according to the present invention can effectively improve the photostability of polydatin. By contrast, polydatin comprised in a composition which does not comprise a photostabilizer is not stable when exposure to light. In addition, the composition of Inventive Example 1 is sustainable.
Claims (15)
- A composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:a) polydatin and/or derivatives thereof, andb) an extract of Eperua falcata.
- The composition according to claim 1, wherein said polydatin and/or derivatives thereof is selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from polydatin, resveratrol, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably the polydatin extracted from the root and/or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum.
- The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the extract of Eperua falcata is derived from the plant Eperua falcata or parts thereof which is preferably selected from bark, root, leaf, fruit and combinations thereof, and the extract of Eperua falcata is preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of Vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethyl urea, and combinations thereof, and preferably chosen from niacinamide, caffeine, or a combination thereof, and more preferably a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one UV filter; which is preferably selected from benzylidene camphor derivatives, more preferably selected from the group consisting of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, and combinations thereof, and is even more preferably terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; wherein the UV filter is preferably present in an amount of from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 2 wt. %, and even more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one nature-based polymer, which is preferably chosen from gums, and is more preferably xanthan gum; wherein the nature-based polymer is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, and even more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one preservative which is chosen from phenol derivatives, diols having five or more carbon atoms, and combinations thereof, and is preferably chosen from phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol and a combination thereof, and is more preferably a combination of caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol; wherein the preservative is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 3 wt. %, and even more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one aqueous solvent, which preferably includes both water and glycerol.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract of Eperua falcata is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, even more preferably 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of claims 4 to 10, wherein the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract of Eperua falcata and the polydatin and/or derivatives thereof are present in a weight ratio of 1: 20 to 10: 1, preferably 1: 10 to 5: 1, more preferably 1: 5 to 2: 1, and even more preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1.
- A composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprisinga) 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %of polydatin,b) 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of an extract of Eperua falcata bark, and optionallyc) 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.
- A process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably skins, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-13 onto the keratin materials.
- Use of an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, for improving the photostability of polydatin and/or derivatives thereof comprised in the composition according to any one of claims 1-13.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2024/070766 WO2025145421A1 (en) | 2024-01-05 | 2024-01-05 | Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials |
| FR2401515A FR3158041A3 (en) | 2024-01-05 | 2024-02-16 | Composition for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2024/070766 WO2025145421A1 (en) | 2024-01-05 | 2024-01-05 | Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2025145421A1 true WO2025145421A1 (en) | 2025-07-10 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2024/070766 Pending WO2025145421A1 (en) | 2024-01-05 | 2024-01-05 | Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials |
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| Country | Link |
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| FR (1) | FR3158041A3 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2025145421A1 (en) |
Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20070003510A1 (en) * | 2003-02-28 | 2007-01-04 | Florence Henry | Preparations containing an extract of eperua falcata and/or constituents of the latter |
| US10137072B2 (en) * | 2016-03-31 | 2018-11-27 | L'oreal | Methods and compositions for providing broad spectrum photo protection using antioxidants |
| US10695278B2 (en) * | 2016-03-31 | 2020-06-30 | L'oreal | Photo-stabilized compositions and methods of use |
| WO2022067631A1 (en) * | 2020-09-30 | 2022-04-07 | L'oreal | Composition for whitening and/or brightening keratin materials |
| CN116710044A (en) * | 2020-12-31 | 2023-09-05 | 莱雅公司 | Composition for caring keratin materials |
| US20230310299A1 (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2023-10-05 | L'oreal | Stable composition comprising polydatin |
-
2024
- 2024-01-05 WO PCT/CN2024/070766 patent/WO2025145421A1/en active Pending
- 2024-02-16 FR FR2401515A patent/FR3158041A3/en active Pending
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20070003510A1 (en) * | 2003-02-28 | 2007-01-04 | Florence Henry | Preparations containing an extract of eperua falcata and/or constituents of the latter |
| US10137072B2 (en) * | 2016-03-31 | 2018-11-27 | L'oreal | Methods and compositions for providing broad spectrum photo protection using antioxidants |
| US10695278B2 (en) * | 2016-03-31 | 2020-06-30 | L'oreal | Photo-stabilized compositions and methods of use |
| US20230310299A1 (en) * | 2020-08-25 | 2023-10-05 | L'oreal | Stable composition comprising polydatin |
| WO2022067631A1 (en) * | 2020-09-30 | 2022-04-07 | L'oreal | Composition for whitening and/or brightening keratin materials |
| CN116710044A (en) * | 2020-12-31 | 2023-09-05 | 莱雅公司 | Composition for caring keratin materials |
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| FR3158041A3 (en) | 2025-07-11 |
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