WO2025036650A2 - Method for producing a quickly emulsifiable cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion from a glycerin-in-oil emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion, wherein a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) glycerin, b) one or more lipids that are liquid at room temperature and under normal pressure, c) one or more waxes, d) one or more salts, e) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INCI: polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate), f) wherein glycerin-in-oil emulsions containing 14 wt.% polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate are excluded from the scope of protection, is mixed with water in a storage container and is shaken or stirred.

Description

Description

Process for producing a quickly emulsifiable cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion from a glycerin-in-oil emulsion. The present invention relates to a process for producing a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion from a cosmetic glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing glycerin, one or more lipids that are liquid at room temperature and normal pressure, one or more waxes, salts and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate). The desire to look beautiful and attractive is naturally rooted in people. Even though the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been people's goal. The condition and appearance of the skin plays a key role in a beautiful and attractive appearance. In order for the skin to be able to fully fulfill its biological functions, it requires regular cleaning and care. Cleansing the skin removes dirt, sweat and dead skin particles, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products are usually used to moisturize and replenish the skin's fat. They often contain active ingredients that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce premature aging (e.g. the formation of fine lines and wrinkles) or protect against the negative effects of UV radiation. Skin care products are usually offered in the form of emulsions, in which an outer water phase contains stable, finely distributed oil droplets (O/W emulsion) or stable, finely distributed water droplets (W/O emulsion) are present in a continuous oil phase.

Skin care emulsions are usually sold as ready-to-use products. However, these products have the disadvantage of being heavy due to their varying water content. This heavy weight leads to higher energy and fuel consumption, particularly during transport.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a cosmetic emulsion in which the weight of the preparation is reduced and which is especially larger container quantities lead to lower energy and/or fuel consumption.

Most cosmetic emulsions are manufactured by the industrial manufacturer of the products using the "hot-hot" or "hot-cold" process, in which an oil phase, usually at over 80 °C, is mixed with a water phase that is also heated ("hot-hot") or at room temperature ("hot-cold") while stirring, homogenized and then cooled. All of these manufacturing steps involve relatively high energy consumption. It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a cosmetic emulsion in which energy consumption during industrial production is reduced.

By solving both tasks, the “CO2 footprint”, i.e. the CO2 emissions associated with the production and transport of the products, should also be significantly reduced.

Last but not least, conventional cosmetic products are often perceived by consumers as boring to use. Conventional ready-made products can only meet the desire (or "playfulness") of many consumers to be involved in the production of cosmetics themselves, as well as the general consumer desire for products with a small "002 footprint" to a limited extent.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a cosmetic product that meets these consumer wishes.

These objects are surprisingly achieved by a process for producing a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion, wherein a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) glycerin, b) one or more lipids liquid at room temperature and normal pressure, c) one or more waxes, d) one or more salts, e) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INGI: polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate), f) wherein glycerin-in-oil emulsions containing 14% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate are excluded from the scope of protection, is mixed with water in a storage container and shaken or stirred.

With the glycerin-in-oil emulsion according to the invention, the user/consumer can obtain a stable, ready-to-use W/O emulsion by simply adding water and shaking briefly. Produce emulsions for skin and body care without having to use a technically or time-consuming manufacturing process.

Although there has been no lack of attempts in the past to develop low-water or even water-free "pre-emulsions" and to offer them to consumers for the production of a care emulsion in the home environment, the production was either relatively complex because, for example, warm water had to be used or complex equipment such as agitators ("mixers") had to be used. Or the end product produced at home left a lot to be desired in terms of quality because no really finely dispersed, homogeneous emulsion was formed. The regionally varying salt content of the water (e.g. the "water hardness") also caused difficulties, as this has a significant influence on the formation and stability of an emulsion. What worked in Hamburg did not necessarily have to work in Munich. In the context of the present disclosure, the terms "according to the invention" etc. always refer to the process according to the invention and to the process product.

For the glycerin-in-oil emulsions containing 14% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and excluded from the scope of protection, the weight indication of 14% by weight refers to the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

It is particularly advantageous for the process according to the invention if the preparation contains no additional water in addition to the water contained in the glycerin and the salts. An additional, low water content can destabilize the glycerin-in-oil emulsion and lead to phase separation. Only at higher water concentrations (greater than 30% by weight), as occurs in the W/O emulsion produced by the process according to the invention, does a stable W/O emulsion system form again.

It is particularly advantageous for the method according to the invention if the

Preparation contains a maximum of 0.5% water by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerine-in-oil emulsion. This water is not added directly, but in conjunction with

Raw materials that contain small amounts of water. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the glycerin used contains a maximum of 1% by weight of water, based on the glycerin. Ideally, 99% or 99.5% glycerin is used.

It is advantageous according to the invention if alkaline earth metal salts are used as salts in the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that magnesium sulfate is used as salts in the glycerin-in-oil emulsion

In addition, it is particularly preferred according to the invention if magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (MgSC>47H ₂ O) is used as the magnesium sulfate. This may seem surprising at first glance, but anhydrous magnesium sulfate is much harder to incorporate into the glycerin-in-oil emulsion than magnesium sulfate which contains water of crystallization. Anhydrous magnesium sulfate dissolves less well in glycerin and tends to form lumps.

It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more compounds selected from the group caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), ethylhexyl stearate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Stearate), triisostearin (INCI: Triisostearin), coco caprylate/caprate (INCI: Coco-Caprylate Caprate), octyldodecanol, coco glycerides (INCI: Coco Glycerides), vegetable oil (INCI: Vegetable Oil), dicaprylyl ether, sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) are used as lipids that are liquid at room temperature and normal pressure. The use of caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), ethylhexyl stearate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Stearate) and triisostearin (INCI: Triisostearin) is preferred according to the invention.

If the oil phase of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), this compound is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 10 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

If the oil phase of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains coco caprylate/caprate (INCI: Coco-Caprylate Caprate), this compound is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 10 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. If the oil phase of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains vegetable oil, e.g. based on rapeseed oil (INCI: Vegetable Oil), this compound is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 10 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more compounds selected from the group hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), hydrogenated vegetable oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) and glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) are used as the wax. The use of hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) is preferred according to the invention.

If the oil phase of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), this compound is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

The advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains the glycerin in an amount of 15 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

The advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains liquid lipids of feature b) at room temperature and normal pressure in a total amount of 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains waxes of feature c) in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains magnesium sulfate in an amount of 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

Last but not least, the advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INGI: polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate) in an amount of 5 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

In addition to polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INGI: polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate), the glycerin-in-oil emulsion according to the invention can, in an advantageous manner according to the invention, additionally contain further W/O emulsifiers. According to the invention, particular preference is given to polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimerdioleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate or polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate. These are then preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. By adding these further W/O emulsifiers, the sensory properties and in particular the viscosity of the concentrate and the mixed emulsion can be adjusted to the desired range.

In addition, the glycerin-in-oil emulsion according to the invention can contain other ingredients as are usually used in cosmetic emulsions, for example cosmetic active ingredients, UV filters, preservatives, antioxidants, powder raw materials, chelating agents, etc.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains one or more preservatives. The preservatives preferred according to the invention are one or more compounds selected from the group ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, benzyl alcohol, glyceryl caprate, ethanol, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, glyceryl caprylate, 1,2-decanediol, phenoxyethanol are used. According to the invention, these are preferably incorporated into the glycerin phase.

In particular, it is advantageous according to the invention if the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains one or more perfumes. According to the invention, these are preferably incorporated before cold homogenization at approx. 25-40 °C.

Perfume substances advantageous according to the invention include linalool, eugenol, citral, geraniol, citronellol, coumarin, isoeugenol, alpha-isomethyl ionene, limonene, hydroxycitronellal, cinnamyl alcohol.

In particular, it is advantageous according to the invention if the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains one or more perfumes.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the glycerin-in-oil emulsion according to the invention is contained in a jar or a bottle with a water-impermeable closure made of tinplate, aluminum, glass, polypropylene, polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate. In this case, the filling quantity in this storage container should, preferably according to the invention, be selected such that this storage container can additionally hold three times the amount of water.

It is advantageous for the process according to the invention if a crucible or a bottle made of tinplate, aluminum, glass, polypropylene, polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate is used as the storage container, which has a water-impermeable closure, and the emulsion is formed by shaking.

Furthermore, advantageous embodiments of the method according to the invention are characterized in that the method is carried out at a temperature between 10 and 30 °C.

Furthermore, it is advantageous for the process according to the invention if the weight ratio of glycerin-in-oil emulsion to water is from 20:80% by weight to 60:40% by weight. According to the invention, the weight ratio of glycerin-in-oil emulsion to water is preferably from 30:70% by weight to 50:50% by weight and particularly preferably 1:2.

The viscosity of the W/O emulsion can be regulated by the amount of water used, which can be obtained from the glycerin-in-oil emulsion by adding water. A low water content (60-75% by weight) leads to a highly viscous preparation, especially to a cream. Smaller amounts of water (40-60% by weight), on the other hand, form thinner lotions.

Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the water has a temperature of at least 10 °C. According to the invention, a water temperature of 15 to 25 °C is preferred.

Last but not least, one of the advantageous embodiments of the method according to the invention is when the storage container is shaken by hand and the shaking process lasts a maximum of 90 seconds. According to the invention, a duration of the shaking process of 10 to 30 seconds is preferred.

According to the invention, a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion is also produced according to the process according to the invention.

According to the invention, this is advantageously characterized in that it is present as a cream or lotion.

comparative tests

The following experiment provides an example of the effect according to the invention:

The following concentrates (=glycerin-in-oil emulsion) and the activation time until the formation of the water-in-oil emulsion (=process product) were investigated.

Production of the concentrate (=glycerin-in-oil emulsion) in the laboratory:

The emulsifiers and lipid-soluble raw materials in the oil phase are melted at 80°C before homogenization until all components have reached a liquid state. Components of the hydrophilic phase are dissolved in the glycerin using a heatable magnetic stirrer at 75°C while stirring until the liquid is clear. This glycerin phase is added to the oil phase during the homogenization process (e.g. with IKA T25 digital Ultra-Turrax) as soon as both phases have reached a temperature of 75-80°C. The phases are combined at a speed of 8000 rpm. After the phases have been combined, homogenization is continued at a speed of 11200 rpm for 3 minutes. The concentrate is then cooled while stirring using the IKA stirrer; if necessary, a second homogenization takes place after adding a perfume at approx. 35°C.

Preparation of the W/O emulsion and determination of the activation time:

To produce the water-containing W/O emulsions and to determine the activation time until they are formed, first the concentrate (=glycerine-in-oil emulsion) and then the water with a total amount of 400 g are weighed into a 500 ml wide-necked glass (e.g. at 30% to 70%: 120 g concentrate and 280 g water). Then the container is tightly closed and shaken by hand until the resulting W/O emulsion looks homogeneous; the time is then stopped.

If no homogeneous W/O emulsion is formed within 2 minutes of shaking, the reaction is discontinued.

The viscosity was determined using the following viscometer under the specified conditions. The measurement is carried out at 25°C in a 150 ml rolled edge glass using the Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body used is measuring body no. 1 (item no. 200 0191), speed range 62.5 min-1.

examples

Claims

patent claims 1. Process for producing a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion, wherein a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) glycerin, b) one or more lipids liquid at room temperature and normal pressure, c) one or more waxes, d) one or more salts, e) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INCI: polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate), f) wherein glycerin-in-oil emulsions containing 14% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate are excluded from the scope of protection, is mixed with water in a storage container and shaken or stirred. 2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains at most 0.5% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. 3. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that alkaline earth metal salts are used as salts in the glycerine-in-oil emulsion. 4. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that magnesium sulfate is used as salts in the glycerin-in-oil emulsion 5. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerin used contains a maximum of 1% by weight, based on the glycerin, of water. 6. Process according to one of the preceding claims 4 to 5, characterized in that magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (MgSO4'7H ₂ O) is used as magnesium sulfate. 7. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (INGI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), coco-caprylate/caprate (INGI: Coco-Caprylate Caprate), octyldodecanol, coco glycerides (INCI: Coco Glycerides), vegetable oil (INGI: Vegetable Oil), dicaprylyl ether and sunflower oil (INGI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) are used as lipids which are liquid at room temperature and normal pressure. 8. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax used is one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), hydrogenated vegetable oil (INGI: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) can be used. 9. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains the glycerin in an amount of 15 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. 10. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains liquid lipids of feature b) at room temperature and normal pressure in a total amount of 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. 11. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains waxes of feature c) in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. 12. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains magnesium sulfate in an amount of 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. 13. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INGI: polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate) in an amount of 5 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion. 14. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in a storage container which consists of a crucible or a bottle made of tinplate, aluminum, glass, polypropylene, polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate and has a water-impermeable closure, containing a glycerin-in-oil emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, water is added and the emulsion is formed by shaking. 15. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the process is carried out at a temperature between 10 and 30 °C. 16. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of glycerin-in-oil emulsion to water is from 20:80% by weight to 60:40% by weight. 17. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water has a temperature of at least 10 °C. 18. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water has a temperature of 15 to 25 °C. 19. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the shaking of the storage container takes place in the hand and the shaking process lasts for a maximum of 90 seconds. 20. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains one or more perfumes. 21. Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion prepared by a process according to any one of the preceding claims. 22. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 21, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream or lotion. 23. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains one or more preservatives selected from ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxyacetophenone, benzyl alcohol, glyceryl caprate, ethanol, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, glyceryl caprylate, 1,2-decanediol, phenoxyethanol. 24. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerin-in-oil emulsion additionally contains further W/O emulsifiers, which are preferably selected from the group of the compounds polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimerdioleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate or polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate.