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WO2025017108A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une alcanolamine, au moins un acide aminé, et au moins un métal alcalin ou un métal alcalino-terreux ou un hydroxyde d'ammonium - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une alcanolamine, au moins un acide aminé, et au moins un métal alcalin ou un métal alcalino-terreux ou un hydroxyde d'ammonium Download PDF

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WO2025017108A1
WO2025017108A1 PCT/EP2024/070347 EP2024070347W WO2025017108A1 WO 2025017108 A1 WO2025017108 A1 WO 2025017108A1 EP 2024070347 W EP2024070347 W EP 2024070347W WO 2025017108 A1 WO2025017108 A1 WO 2025017108A1
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Stéphanie COULOMBEL
Charlotte COLIN
Patrice Lerda
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Definitions

  • DESCRIPTION TITLE Cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one amino acid, and at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound chosen from amino acids and their derivatives, and at least one alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide.
  • the invention also relates to a method for smoothing/straightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair, employing the composition of the invention.
  • the invention further relates to the use of the composition for smoothing/straightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
  • compositions which make it possible to introduce a temporary change to their head of hair, while targeting good shape retention of the effect produced.
  • Heat treatments are generally used to modify the shape of the head of hair in a long-lasting manner. These treatments make possible a visual modification of the appearance of the hairstyle, combining a decrease in the degree of frizziness, a reduction in overall volume of the head of hair, a decrease in little curls, a gain in manageability, a smoother visual appearance, a substantial gain in sheen, and a resistance to humidity and to heat for maintenance of the hairstyle throughout the day.
  • this type of treatment has the advantage of facilitating the daily maintenance of the head of hair, with the use of fewer care products, in particular of rinse-out care products, such as conditioners or masks, or of leave-in care products, such as sera, care creams or balms, or taming mousses. Drying of the hair is facilitated, with a markedly shortened blow-drying time and a decrease in the daily use of flat tongs, in terms both of time and of intensity. This thus makes it possible to limit the risks of damaging the hair through combined factors of mechanical and thermal stress.
  • Several techniques are associated with these heat treatments.
  • a first technique is based on the use of compositions based on thiol-comprising reducing agents.
  • Patent Application WO 2011/104282 has thus proposed a novel method for semi-permanently smoothing the hair, which consists in applying an ⁇ -keto acid solution to the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, in then drying and finally in smoothing the head of hair with an iron at a temperature of approximately 200°C.
  • the ⁇ -keto acid employed is preferably glyoxylic acid.
  • glyoxylic acid may not be well tolerated, in particular when the scalp is sensitive and/or irritated. Its volatility, accentuated by the use of heat from the iron, can also present a problem.
  • the compositions of the prior art may adversely affect the hair and/or adversely affect its colour. Treatments using a composition comprising a base combined with a heat treatment for smoothing the hair have also been proposed. Such treatments make it possible to obtain good relaxation of curls but can lead to adverse changes in the hair fibre.
  • the document EP 1837010 describes in particular a smoothing/straightening method using a composition comprising sodium hydroxide and a heat treatment.
  • the document WO 2007/144707 describes a smoothing/straightening method using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base, such as monoethanolamine or ethylenediamine, combined with a heat treatment.
  • the document WO 2009/117344 also describes a smoothing/straightening method using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base and a protein-denaturing agent, combined with a heat treatment.
  • compositions comprising weak acids at alkaline pH, combined with a heat treatment.
  • WO 2010/049434 describes, for example, a smoothing/straightening method in which a composition comprising a dicarboxylic acid, such as maleic acid, and a heat treatment are applied. Such treatments are not always satisfactory in terms of results and/or of persistence. There still exists a need to perfect compositions, in particular for smoothing/straightening keratin fibres, which make it possible to smooth/straighten and/or to reduce the frizziness of the hair in an effective and long-lasting manner while limiting the damage to the hair.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising: i) one or more alkanolamines, ii) one or more compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives chosen from aminosulfonic acids and their derivatives, and iii) one or more alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides, in which the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1; in which the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is between 2 and 10.
  • the composition of the invention makes it possible to achieve a relaxation of curls, i.e.
  • composition of the invention can additionally be applied to all types of hair, even very sensitized hair, while preserving, indeed even while improving, the cosmetic qualities of the fibre, such as sheen, smooth feel and ease of styling (reduction in volume and little curls), and also its natural appearance with loose and light hairs, and also a natural feel.
  • the composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to improve the cosmetic feel of the hair, in particular by making it smoother to the touch.
  • the composition of the invention does not emit any bad smell during use.
  • the invention also relates to a method for smoothing/straightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair, employing the composition of the invention.
  • the invention further relates to the use of the composition for smoothing/straightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
  • the term “smoothing/straightening” is understood to mean a method which makes it possible to reduce the level of curling of the hair; it also generally makes it possible to reduce the volume of the hair. The reduction in the level of curling can extend as far as the complete smoothing of the hair.
  • Alkanolamines The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine.
  • Alkanolamine is understood to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and one or more linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
  • Alkanolamines chosen from mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising from 1 to 3 identical or different C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, are suitable in particular for implementing the invention.
  • the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and their mixtures.
  • the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.
  • the alkanolamine(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • diethanolamine triethanolamine
  • monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
  • N,N- dimethylethanolamine 2-amino-2-methyl-1-
  • monoethanolamine is present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • Amino acids and their derivatives The composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one compound chosen from amino acids and their derivatives.
  • the amino acid derivatives can be chosen from their betaine forms, their optical isomers, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their mixtures.
  • the amino acids and their derivatives are chosen from aminosulfonic acids and their derivatives.
  • the amino acid can be chosen from the amino acids of following formulae (II), and also their betaine forms, their optical isomers, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their organic or inorganic acid or base salts: in which formulae (II): - R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C 1 - C 5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino, -C(O)-OH, -S(O) 2 -OH, -C(O)-O-M + or -S(O) 2 -O-M + , with M + representing a cationic counterion, such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium counterion, - n has the value 0 or 1.
  • formulae (II): - R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C 1 - C 5 alkyl group
  • the amino acid(s) can be in their non- ionized form (II) or in their ionized or betaine form in which formulae R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 - C 5 alkyl group, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, amino group or carboxylate group, and n has the value 0 or 1.
  • the amino acid(s) or their salt(s) can be chosen from taurine, and their salts, in particular sodium taurate.
  • the amino acids are chosen from aminosulfonic acids, of formula (II), more preferentially taurine.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound chosen from taurine, and also its betaine forms, its optical isomers, its solvates, such as the hydrates, and its organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their mixtures.
  • Taurine, or 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid is an amino acid of formula NH 2 - CH 2 -CH 2 -SO 3 H.
  • Taurine can be present in the non-ionized form (II’) or in the ionized form (II’’), as are defined above.
  • the compound(s) chosen from taurine and its derivatives are chosen from taurine and its salts, in particular sodium taurate, potassium taurate or magnesium taurate, and their mixtures, more preferentially taurine.
  • the compound(s) chosen from amino acids and their derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compound(s) chosen from aminosulfonic acids and their derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compound(s) chosen from taurine and its derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • taurine, its betaine forms, its optical isomers, its solvates, such as the hydrates, and its organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their mixtures are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate and taurine, and preferentially taurine are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • Alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides The composition according to the invention additionally comprises one or more alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide is understood to mean a compound of formula M(OH) x in which M is a metal chosen from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals and x is equal to 1 or 2.
  • the alkali metal hydroxides can in particular be chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and their mixtures.
  • the alkaline earth metal hydroxides can in particular be chosen from magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and their mixtures.
  • Ammonium hydroxide is the compound of formula NH 4 OH.
  • alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide(s) will be used.
  • the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide(s) are chosen from alkali metal hydroxides and their mixtures, preferentially from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and their mixtures.
  • the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkali metal hydroxide which can be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • alkali metal hydroxide which can be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.1, preferentially strictly greater than 1.2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and their derivatives is strictly greater than 1, preferentially strictly greater than 1.1, better still greater than 1.2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and their derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and its derivatives is greater than 1, preferentially greater than 1.1, better still greater than 1.2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and its derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate, taurine and their mixtures is greater than 1, preferentially greater than 1.1, better still greater than 1.2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate, taurine and their mixtures is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of taurine is greater than 1, preferentially greater than 1.1, better still greater than 1.2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of taurine is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is between 2 and 10, preferentially between 4 and 8.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides is between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 4 and 8.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide is between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 4 and 8.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives and of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) is greater than 1, preferentially is between 1.1 and 3, more preferentially between 1.1 and 2.
  • the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and its derivatives and of alkali metal hydroxide(s) is greater than 1, preferentially is between 1.1 and 3, more preferentially between 1.1 and 2.
  • the composition of the invention is an aqueous composition. It can in particular comprise water or water and one or more solvents.
  • the water content generally ranges from 10% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • Organic solvents are preferred as solvents.
  • water-soluble solvents such as C 1 -C 7 alcohols
  • C 1 -C 7 aliphatic monoalcohols such as, for example, ethanol, or C 6 -C 7 aromatic monoalcohols
  • C 2 -C 6 polyols such as, for example, glycerol or pentylene glycol, which can be employed alone or as a mixture with water.
  • the pH preferably varies from 7 to 13, preferentially from 8 to 12.5, better still from 9 to 12 and even better still from 10 to 11.5.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one alkanolamine, - at least one compound chosen from taurine and its derivatives, and - at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide, preferably at least one alkali metal hydroxide; with the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of taurine and/or its derivatives greater than 1 with the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides between 2 and 10.
  • the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine and their mixtures, more preferentially monoethanolamine.
  • the alkali metal hydroxide(s) is/are chosen from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and their mixtures.
  • Thickening agents The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more thickening agents.
  • thickening agent is understood to mean an agent which, by its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs, preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 .
  • This viscosity can be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
  • the thickening agent(s) can be chosen from amides of fatty acids obtained from C 10 -C 30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanolamide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), polymeric thickeners and especially polysaccharides, in particular the cellulose-based polymers as described below, guar gums, gum arabic, gums of microbial origin (scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, on methacrylic acid or on acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and their mixtures.
  • amides of fatty acids obtained from C 10 -C 30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanolamide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), polymeric thickeners and especially polysaccharides, in particular the cellulose-based poly
  • the thickening polymer is a polysaccharide of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the polysaccharide polymers of use in the invention are cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably non-ionic polymers.
  • the term "polysaccharide polymers” is understood to mean polymers containing sugar units.
  • the term “sugar unit” is understood to mean a unit resulting from a carbohydrate of formula C n (H 2 O) n-1 or (CH 2 O) n which can be optionally modified by substitution and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • sugar units of the polymers of use in the invention are preferably resulting from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  • polysaccharide polymers of those resulting from native gums, such as: a) tree or shrub exudates, including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - ghatti gum (polymer resulting from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer resulting from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums resulting from algae, including: - agar (polymer resulting from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans
  • polymers can be physically or chemically modified. Mention may in particular be made, as physical treatment, of the temperature. Mention may be made, as chemical treatments, of esterification, etherification, amidation or oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to result in polymers which can be in particular non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses. Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP105 and Jaguar HP120 by Rhodia Chimie. The polysaccharide polymers can be cellulose-based polymers.
  • the cellulose-based polymers can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
  • cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters are distinguished.
  • Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, and the like), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetate butyrates, acetate propionates or acetate trimellitates, and the like), and mixed organic/inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfates and cellulose acetate propionate sulfates. Mention may be made, among cellulose ether esters, of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • Non-ionic cellulose ethers devoid of a C 10 -C 30 fatty chain i.e. which are “non-associative”, of (C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkyl (C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (for example, Berm
  • the polysaccharide(s) according to the invention can be chosen from microbial gums.
  • the microbial gums can be chosen from scleroglucan gums, gellan gums, pullulan gums, curdlan gums, xanthan gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, schizophyllan gums, spirulinan gums and krestin gums.
  • the thickening agent(s) are chosen from polysaccharides, preferentially from guar gums, better still from non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • the thickening agent(s) is (are) generally present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polysaccharide polymer(s) is (are) generally present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more cationic polymers, preferably non-silicone polymers, different from the thickening agents described above.
  • the cationic polymer(s) which can be used can be chosen from associative cationic polymers, non-associative cationic polymers and their mixtures.
  • the term “cationic polymer” is understood to mean any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to give cationic groups.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly connected to the latter.
  • the cationic polymers optionally present in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in Patent Application EP- A-337354 and in French Patents FR-2270846, 2383660, 2598611, 2470596 and 2519863.
  • the polymer(s) are chosen from non-silicone polymers.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly connected to the latter. Mention may more particularly be made, among the cationic polymers, of the polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium types. These are known products. They are described in particular in French Patents Nos.2505348 and 2542997.
  • the cationic polymer(s) used in the smoothing composition is or are chosen from the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer, of INCI name Polyquaternium-6, such as the product sold under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular weight), and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, of INCI name Polyquaternium- 7, such as the products sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
  • the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer of INCI name Polyquaternium-6, such as the product sold under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular weight)
  • the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide of INCI name Polyquaternium- 7, such as the products sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
  • the cationic polymer(s) used in the composition according to the invention can be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from polysaccharides and at least one cationic polymer as are defined above.
  • Surfactants The composition according to the invention can optionally also comprise one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.
  • the composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferentially chosen from non-ionic surfactants.
  • oxyalkylenated in particular oxyethylenated, fatty alcohols, preferably C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • the total content of surfactant(s) can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • Fatty substances The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more fatty substances.
  • the fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols, silicones and their mixtures.
  • the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can be chosen from liquid C 6 to C 16 hydrocarbons; the latter can be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably saturated. Mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and their mixtures.
  • liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can also be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms which are linear or branched, are of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and their mixtures.
  • the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can also be chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms; mention may be made of mixtures, the INCI names of which are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as, for example, the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC and Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC.
  • the C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols are preferably chosen from C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols, preferentially C 12 -C 22 fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohols can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetearyl alcohol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols, silicones and their mixtures, preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols and their mixtures.
  • the total content of fatty substance(s) can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention can be provided in all the formulation forms conventionally used, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic, or oily, solution or suspension; of a solution or of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi- liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type; of a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of O/W or W/O cream type; of an aqueous or anhydrous gel, of a cream or of any other cosmetic form.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for smoothing and/or straightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair, employing the composition as described above. More particularly, the method for smoothing and/or straightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprises: a) a stage of application, to said keratin fibres, of a composition as described above, b) at least one stage of rinsing said fibres, c) optionally a stage of drying said fibres, and d) a stage of smoothing/straightening the keratin fibres, during which at least one heat treatment is applied to said fibres.
  • the straightening/smoothing stage is carried out at a temperature of greater than 50°C, preferably of between 80 and 250°C.
  • Stage a) can optionally be preceded by a stage of washing with a shampoo and/or by a stage of rinsing, preferably with water.
  • the composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably to wet fibres, it having been possible for said fibres to be shampooed and/or rinsed beforehand, in particular with water, before application of said composition according to the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention is applied to dry or wet hair, more preferentially wet hair, it having been possible for said hair to be shampooed and/or rinsed beforehand, in particular with water, before application of said composition according to the invention.
  • the application of the composition in stage a) can be carried out by any means, such as by means of a brush or of a comb or also with the fingers.
  • the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres in stage i) ranges from 10 to 90 minutes, preferentially from 10 to 60 minutes, more preferentially from 15 to 45 minutes. Within the meaning of the present invention, the leave-on time is the contact time of the composition on the keratin fibres.
  • the composition according to the invention is left to stand on the keratin fibres at ambient temperature.
  • ambient temperature is understood to mean a temperature varying from 20°C to 37°C.
  • the rinsing stage b) is a rinsing with water.
  • the rinsing stage b) can be carried out one or more times.
  • the method according to the invention comprises a stage c) of drying the keratin fibres carried out after the rinsing stage b) and before the smoothing/straightening stage d).
  • the drying stage c) can be carried out by drying in the open air or using a conventional drying means, such as a hand-held hair dryer or a hood dryer.
  • a conventional drying means such as a hand-held hair dryer or a hood dryer.
  • the drying stage c) is carried out at a temperature of less than 100°C, preferentially at a temperature ranging from 40 to 95°C.
  • the smoothing/straightening stage d) comprises at least a heat treatment applied to said keratin fibres, that is to say that heat is applied to said keratin fibres during the implementation of the smoothing/straightening stage at a temperature preferably of greater than or equal to 110°C, preferentially at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 280°C, more preferentially ranging from 110°C to 250°C, simultaneously with or sequentially to a mechanical action.
  • a device can be a heating device imposing a mechanical action on the keratin fibres in order to produce the smoothing/straightening, it being possible for this mechanical action to be employed simultaneously with or sequentially to the application of heat.
  • This heat treatment can be carried out by a device imposing a mechanical action on the keratin fibres in order to produce the smoothing/straightening.
  • a device imposing a mechanical action on the keratin fibres in order to produce the smoothing/straightening.
  • the smoothing iron, the smoothing iron capable of generating steam at the time of the treatment such as the Steampod ⁇ smoothing device which makes it possible to apply steam to the fibres and then to smooth them, or heating polyester films.
  • the smoothing/straightening stage d) is carried out with at least one smoothing iron or one smoothing iron capable of generating steam on the keratin fibres, at a temperature of greater than or equal to 110°C.
  • the heat treatment of the fibres can also be carried out using a hand-held hair dryer or a heating hood dryer, for example of blowing Climazon® type or an infrared heating hood dryer, the flattening of the fibres in order to obtain the smoothing then being carried out manually, for example with a comb or a brush.
  • the heat treatment of stage d) is carried out at a temperature of greater than or equal to 110°C, preferentially at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 280°C, more preferentially ranging from 110°C to 250°C.
  • the application of heat can vary, for example, from 5 to 30 minutes, preferably from 10 to 20 minutes.
  • the implementation of the method of the invention can be followed by a stage of shaping the keratin fibres, for example a blow drying, that is to say that stage d) can be followed by a stage of shaping the keratin fibres, for example a blow drying.
  • a stage of shaping the keratin fibres for example a blow drying
  • the total duration of the treatment of the locks of hair is at most 1 minute.
  • the method according to the invention can be carried out on sensitized or non- sensitized keratin fibres.
  • the method for smoothing and/or straightening keratin fibres successively comprises: (i) a stage of application, to wet keratin fibres, of at least one composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound chosen from taurine and its derivatives and at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide; the ratio by weight of alkanolamine to the compound chosen from taurine and its derivatives is greater than 1, and the ratio by weight of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides is between 2 and 10; preferably, the leave-on time of the composition varies from 5 to 90 minutes, ii) at least one stage of rinsing the keratin fibres, iii) optionally a stage of drying the keratin fibres, iv) a stage of smoothing/straightening the keratin fibre
  • the heat treatment varies from 110°C to 280°C, more preferentially ranging from 110°C to 250°C.
  • the alkanolamine is chosen from mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for smoothing and/or straightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
  • the following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature. Examples In the examples which follow, all the amounts are shown as percentage by weight of active material (AM), with respect to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise mentioned).
  • the compositions A to E according to the invention and the comparative compositions F and G were prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below: [Table 1] Invention Comparative A B C D E F Taurine 3.375 3.75 3.75 3.375 3.75 5.625 Monoethanolamine 6 5.625 4.5 6 5.625 3.75 Sodium hydroxide 0.875 0.875 0.875 - - 0.875 Potassium - - - 1.125 1.125 - hydroxide Water q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.s. q.s.s. q.s.s.
  • compositions A, B (according to the invention) and F (comparative) were then evaluated according to the protocol detailed below.
  • b) Protocol Locks of Curl Type V curly hair (2.7 g) are washed beforehand with a shampoo.
  • the composition A, B or F is subsequently applied to wet hair in a proportion of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
  • a leave-on time of the compositions on the locks of 30 minutes in the open air and at ambient temperature is observed.
  • the locks are rinsed with water at the rate of 20 passes of fingers under water.
  • composition H according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below: [Table 3] Ingredients Amount as % of AM Taurine 3.75 Monoethanolamine 5.625 Sodium hydroxide 0.875 C 13-16 Isoalkane 5 Fatty alcohol 2.5 Dimethicone 0.1 Hydroxypropyl guar 1.5 Non-ionic surfactants 4 Organic solvents 10 Water q.s. for 100 The composition H according to the invention exhibits a pH of 10.7. When the composition H is applied according to the application protocol described above, there is obtained a smoothing which is lasting, without smell during the application of the composition H.
  • Composition A1, B1, A2 or B2 is then applied to wet hair in a proportion of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
  • a leave-on time of the composition on the locks of 30 minutes in the open air 10 and at ambient temperature is observed.
  • the locks are rinsed with water at the rate of 20 passes of fingers under water.
  • the locks are dried with a hand-held hair dryer and then smoothed with a smoothed iron at a temperature of 230°C (5 passes).
  • the locks were washed with a shampoo and then air-dried.
  • c1 Results – Composition A1 vs. Composition B1 Detangling performance on dry hair was assessed by 6 experts on a scale from 20 0 (difficult) to 5 (easy).
  • FIG1 is a picture illustrating the detangling performances of a composition A1 according to the invention and a comparative composition B1.
  • a fine comb passes through the lock from top to bottom. As it passes through, the earlier it blocks, the more difficult it will be to detangle the lock.
  • Figure 1 illustrates that the lock of hair treated with composition A1 according to the invention is easier to detangle than a lock hair treated with comparative composition B1. Indeed, this picture shows that the comb is blocked earlier when treated with comparative composition B1 than with composition A1 according to the invention.
  • composition A2 vs. Composition B2
  • Detangling performance on dry hair was assessed by 6 experts on a scale from 0 (difficult) to 5 (easy). The scale for detangling performance was as follows: 5 Difficult Quite Moderately Moderately Quite Easy difficult easy To assess detangling, each expert slides the comb through the lock of hair from root to tip, and rates how easy it is to comb through.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une alcanolamine, au moins un composé choisi parmi les acides aminés et leurs dérivés, et au moins un métal alcalin, un métal alcalino-terreux ou un hydroxyde d'ammonium. L'invention concerne également un procédé de lissage/défrisage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, mettant en œuvre la composition de l'invention. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation de la composition pour le lissage/défrisage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cheveux.
PCT/EP2024/070347 2023-07-20 2024-07-18 Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une alcanolamine, au moins un acide aminé, et au moins un métal alcalin ou un métal alcalino-terreux ou un hydroxyde d'ammonium Pending WO2025017108A1 (fr)

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FR2307806A FR3151208A1 (fr) 2023-07-20 2023-07-20 Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une alcanolamine, au moins un acide aminé, et au moins un hydroxyde de métal alcalin ou alcalino-terreux ou d’ammonium
FRFR2307806 2023-07-20

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FR2270846A1 (fr) 1974-05-16 1975-12-12 Oreal
FR2383660A1 (fr) 1977-03-15 1978-10-13 Oreal Composition et procede de traitement de matieres keratiniques avec des polymeres cationiques et anioniques
FR2470596A1 (fr) 1979-11-28 1981-06-12 Oreal Composition destinee au traitement des fibres keratiniques a base de polymeres amphoteres et de polymeres cationiques
FR2505348A1 (fr) 1981-05-08 1982-11-12 Oreal Composition sous forme de mousse aerosol a base de polymere cationique et de polymere anionique
FR2519863A1 (fr) 1982-01-15 1983-07-22 Oreal Composition cosmetique destinee au traitement des fibres keratiniques et procede de traitement de celles-ci
FR2542997A1 (fr) 1983-03-23 1984-09-28 Oreal Composition epaissie ou gelifiee de conditionnement des cheveux contenant au moins un polymere cationique, au moins un polymere anionique et au moins une gomme de xanthane
FR2598611A1 (fr) 1986-05-16 1987-11-20 Oreal Compositions cosmetiques renfermant un polymere cationique et un polymere anionique comme agent epaississant
EP0337354A1 (fr) 1988-04-12 1989-10-18 Kao Corporation Composition détergente faiblement irritante
EP1837010A2 (fr) 2006-03-17 2007-09-26 L'Oréal Processus de relaxation ou de défrisage des cheveux
WO2007144707A2 (fr) 2006-06-09 2007-12-21 Nokia Corporation Découverte locale de services de réseaux mobiles
WO2009117344A2 (fr) 2008-03-19 2009-09-24 L'oreal Utilisation d'une composition et procédé impliquant l'utilisation d'une base non-hydroxyde et d'un dénaturant de protéine du type thermique pour relaxer ou raidir les cheveux
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WO2011104282A2 (fr) 2010-02-24 2011-09-01 Alderan S.A.S. Di D'ottavi Adele & C. Procédé de lissage semi-permanent de cheveux frisés, ondulés ou bouclés
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