WO2025011789A1 - Polyphenol-rich damask rose extract derived from a hydrodistillation byproduct and its uses as a food supplement - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for obtaining an extract derived from a hydrodistillation byproduct of the flowering tops of Rosa damascena that contains at least 10% polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the dry extract. The method is characterised in that it comprises the steps of: hydrodistilling the preferably fresh flowering tops of Rosa damascena; recovering the deodorised byproduct consisting of the hydrodistillation water and the flowering tops; after filtration, concentrating the hydrodistillation water under continuous vacuum at a temperature not exceeding 100°C; spray drying, freeze-drying or extrusion drying the concentrated soft Rosa damascena extract thus obtained on an inulin support; and recovering a dried Rosa damascena extract. The invention also relates to an extract obtained by the method according to the invention, to compositions comprising such an extract and to their uses in the food and cosmetic fields, in particular as a food supplement, or for nutraceutical and nutricosmetic purposes.

Description

DAMASCUS ROSE EXTRACT RICH IN POLYPHENOLS OBTAINED FROM A CO-PRODUCT OF HYDRODISTILLATION AND ITS USES AS A FOOD SUPPLEMENT

TECHNICAL AREA

The present invention relates to the field of extraction of plant materials. It relates more particularly to an extract rich in polyphenols obtained from a co-product of rose hydrodistillation, a composition comprising such an extract and its uses, as well as a method for obtaining such an extract.

PRIOR TECHNIQUE

It is indeed well known that plant materials such as plants are a source of compounds of interest.

The rose, and more specifically the Damask rose (Rosa damascene), is for example one of the most used flowers in cosmetics and health. The rose is described as a source of phytonutrients giving it in particular antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, antimicrobial, hepatoprotective properties.

It is used in different forms such as: essential oil; hydrosol/rose water (calming, relaxing, also as an aroma); dried flowers; flower buds (rich in vitamin C); or even concrete and absolute.

For example, to produce 1 kg of Rosa damascene essential oil, 3500 kg of fresh flowers are needed.

In the form of essential oil or hydrosol, Damask rose offers multiple benefits for the skin.

Astringent, anti-wrinkle, soothing and softening, rose essential oil and rose hydrosol are allies for preserving the youthfulness of the skin and reducing anxiety and stress.

For example, TWM627147 describes a method in which Bulgarian rose water can be obtained by grinding Bulgarian rose petals, uniformly mixing the ground Bulgarian rose petals with water in a solid-liquid ratio of 1:6, and placing them at 50°C for extraction for 120 minutes, to obtain the rose water. The preliminary extract is filtered to remove precipitates, then the residual impurities are removed by centrifugation to obtain a supernatant, and the supernatant is concentrated under reduced pressure to obtain rose water.

The La Compagnie Des Sens document “Damask Rose - Organic Hydrolat” concerns a fresh concentrated hydrolat of Damask Rose. Document FR3072874 describes an extract obtained by subcritical water extraction from at least one plant chosen from perfume, aromatic and medicinal plants, carried out at least with the following three conditions: a “dynamic” mode by percolation, and a temperature between 150 and 175°C, and a subcritical water passage time of 15 minutes.

The volatile compounds are present between 0.1% and 5% by weight of dry matter of the extract, and are at least partly terpenes preferentially chosen from one or more of the following oxygenated terpenes: α-terpineol, linalool, geraniol, citronellol, menthol, eucalyptol, verbenone, italidiones, [3-damascenone, cryptone, nerol, carvacrol, thymol, borneol, eugenol, linalyl acetate, camphor, benzyl benzoate.

The paper “Volatile constituents of rose water of Damask rose (Rosa damascena Mill.) from Uttarakhand Himalayas” (LOHANI HEMA et al.) also discloses a hydrosol obtained by hydrodistillation in which the flower petals (400 g) were freshly collected and hydrodistilled (2.0 liters of water) for 4 hours in Clevenger apparatus to obtain rose water (800 ml). This rose water was extracted with diethyl ether to obtain its volatiles and dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate. This fraction was stored at -5°C until analysis. GC and GC-MS analysis revealed that 2-phenylethyl alcohol was the major component detected in all the rose water samples and it ranged from 77.35 to 89.37%. The other major components were citronellol (0.95–5.71%), geraniol (0.07–2.49%), methyl eugenol and geranium (0.07–2.49%).

Generally speaking, it is known that the essential oil of Rosa damascena obtained by hydrodistillation (usually from fresh plant material) is rich in volatile substances and low in polyphenols.

For example, document WG2020/157428 is known, which concerns the cosmetic use of rose water and rose essential oil in combination (and comprising 2-phenylethanol, nerol, citronellol, and geraniol) to prevent or treat one or more cutaneous effects of fatigue or exposure to stress. According to this document, the hydrodistillation of rose flowers thus implemented makes it possible to obtain, after condensation and decantation, two fractions, namely:

- an aqueous fraction containing the volatile water-soluble organic compounds from which rose water is obtained, and

- an organic fraction, supernatant of the aqueous fraction, containing the volatile liposoluble compounds from which the essential oil of rose is obtained.

For this purpose, unless diluted, the person skilled in the art is therefore dissuaded from using the essential oil for administration, particularly topically. Similarly, it is known that Rosa damascene hydrolate, obtained during hydrodistillation after separation of the essential oil, is also low in polyphenols.

Furthermore, rose petals can be a source of polyphenols, particularly flavonols, for which antioxidant activity has been demonstrated in vitro and in vivo.

In particular, we know of a powder (obtained by drying and grinding) of Rosa rugosa petals marketed by IMAHERB BIOTECH® which appears to be rich in polyphenols and is intended to be used as a food supplement.

We can also cite for example document JP6777794 which discloses a rose extract rich in polyphenols which can be administered orally.

However, such products are obtained directly from the rose or from rose extract(s) obtained by (hydro)distillation.

The subject of the invention, however, differs from this product in that the extract is a distillation co-product rich in polyphenols and furthermore does not contain any allergenic substances.

Also, none of the products/documents appear to disclose a composition, in particular for oral administration, comprising a rose extract, more precisely of Damask rose (Rosa damascena), rich in polyphenols and furthermore free of allergenic substances obtained from a co-product of hydrodistillation.

For this purpose, the document "An enriched polyphenolic extract obtained from the by-product of Rosa damascena hydrodistillation activates antioxidant and proteostatic modules" (DINA EVANTHIA et al.) is known, which describes a "laboratory" preparation process in which the petals of R. damascena were collected and refrigerated no later than one hour after harvest and stored at -80°C. The distillation was then carried out with a Clevengeren apparatus using 100 g of rose petals in 600 ml of water inside a 2 L flask. The distillation lasted 3 hours at 100 °C and, at the end, the aqueous extract with the petals was filtered (RDcr). In particular, 500 ml of the extract were first filtered and then continuously introduced into 100 g of resin in a packed column with a flow rate of 5 ml/min for adsorption of phenols; 3 L of water flowed continuously from the column to remove sugars and non-phenolic compounds (RDaq). At the end, the column was washed with 250 mL of EtOH and the enriched phenolic extract (RDet) was obtained. The RDaq extract comprises 6.5% polyphenols; the RDet extract is enriched in polyphenols and comprises 26% polyphenols and is then fractionated by CRC (centrifugal partition chromatography) with organic solvents (hexane/ethyl acetate/methanol/water).

We also know the document "In Vitro Study of the Biological Potential of Wastewater Obtained after the Distillation of Four Bulgarian Oil Bearing Roses" (ILIEVA YANA et al.) who describes a (semi) "industrial" steam distillation process using the following parameters: raw material 8-10 kg; hydromodule 1:4; flow rate 16-20 ml/min; duration 150 min.

Such a process thus makes it possible to obtain a residual rose water (liquid) comprising a total polyphenol content expressed in quercetin equivalent varying from 6.2 to 9.4 mg/mL, and more particularly 6.2 mg/mL for R. damascene or 0.62%.

Finally, we know the document “Tyrosinase inhibitory constituents from a polyphenol enriched fraction of rose oil distillation wastewater” (JESSICA SOLIMINE et al.) which describes the valorization of polyphenol-enriched residual water obtained during the production of rose essential oil by steam distillation of rose flowers (Rosa damascene Mill. f. trigintipetala Dieck, Rosaceae). If the medicinal properties of rose flowers are partly attributed to the abundance of polyphenols, especially flavonoids and anthocyanidins, one of the major challenges related to the elucidation of the effects of polyphenols on health is related to the major differences in their bioavailability. As indicated in this document, it has long been known that polyphenols, and especially flavonoids, are extensively metabolized by colonic microorganisms. Given the unfavourable pharmacokinetic profile and intensive metabolism of flavonoids after oral intake, the development of a polyphenol-based dietary supplement for oral application is therefore difficult.

Thus, indications involving topical application seem more suitable for plant-derived polyphenols, since application to the skin should circumvent the problems associated with the relatively low oral bioavailability of flavonoids.

TECHNICAL PROBLEM

Considering the above, a problem that the invention proposes to solve is to valorize a flower, and more particularly the Damask rose (Rosa damascene), in its entirety, by creating as little waste as possible and by using the distillation co-products. The (industrial) process developed according to the invention makes it possible to recover and valorize the large quantities of water generated during hydrodistillation to produce a new ingredient with high added value. The (industrial) process developed according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain an extract rich in polyphenols from a hydrodistillation co-product of Rosa damascene rose, from fresh plant material not deteriorated by drying or grinding intended to be advantageously administered orally for cosmetic/nutraceutical use.

TECHNICAL SOLUTION The invention therefore has as its first subject a process for obtaining an extract obtained from a co-product of hydrodistillation of flowering tops of the Rosa damascene rose containing at least 10% of polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the dry extract, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

- hydrodistillation of flowering tops, preferably fresh, of Rosa damascena rose;

- recovery of said deodorized co-product consisting of hydrodistillation water and flowering tops;

- after filtration, concentration of the hydrodistillation waters carried out under continuous vacuum at a temperature not exceeding 100°C;

- the concentrated soft extract of Rosa damascene thus obtained is spray dried in the presence of a neutral support such as maltodextrin, gum arabic, inulin and/or another plant extract such as an acerola extract, freeze-drying or extrusion on inulin support; and

- recovery of a dried extract of Rosa damascena containing at least 10% of polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the dry extract.

The second subject of the invention is an extract in the form of granules or powder obtained from a co-product of hydrodistillation of flowering tops of the Rosa damascena rose containing at least 10% of polyphenols, preferably between 10% and 20% of polyphenols, by weight of the total weight of the dry extract obtained by the process according to the invention.

The invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract obtained by the process according to the invention, characterized in that it is in a form suitable for oral administration.

Finally, the invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention in the food and cosmetic fields, or as a food supplement for its nutraceutical or nutricosmetic use.

BENEFITS PROVIDED

The rose extracts obtained according to the invention are natural extracts (co-products) from by-products obtained during the transformation of plants, and generally not used.

The rose extracts obtained according to the invention are rich in polyphenols and contain at least 10% of polyphenols, preferably between 10% and 20% of polyphenols, by weight of the total weight of the dry extract, and are thus advantageously intended for oral administration, in particular as a food supplement for its nutricosmetic or nutraceutical use, as well as for topical administration in cosmetics, said extracts being free of in particular essential oil and furthermore advantageously free from the majority of allergenic substances chosen in particular from citronellol, eugenol, geraniol.

The process implemented according to the invention is part of the development of ecological (industrial) extraction processes that respect the environment, making it possible to favor renewable plant resources and to enhance all fractions of the rose, while guaranteeing a quality product or extract.

The process implemented according to the invention also responds to a real challenge represented by the recovery of water.

Indeed, the production of Rosa damascene essential oil generates large quantities of water. This “waste” rose water represents an environmental problem when it is released into the environment due to the high content of polyphenols that are difficult to decompose. However, if on the one hand, they are biopollutants, these polyphenolic compounds are advantageously an important source of bioactive compounds for different applications, particularly as a food supplement for its nutricosmetic and nutraceutical use.

The method according to the invention makes it possible to use and enhance a by-product (in order to produce bioactive compounds (co-products) while improving the impact of the by-products on the environment.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

In this description, unless otherwise specified, it is understood that when an interval is given, it includes the upper and lower bounds of said interval.

The invention and the advantages arising therefrom will be better understood upon reading the description and the non-limiting embodiments which follow, with regard to the appended drawings in which:

Figure 1 shows a schematic example of the steps of a process for obtaining a concentrated soft extract (undried) of rose from fresh flowers of Rosa damascene (Example 1).

Figure 2 represents a schematic example of the steps of a process for obtaining a rose extract according to the process of the invention including a step of drying by freeze-drying or by atomization on a support (Example 2).

Figure 3 represents an HPLC chromatogram of a freeze-dried extract of Rosa damascene rose obtained by the process according to the invention in DAD (Diode Array Detector) at 280 nm.

Figure 4 represents a zoom of the 15 min to 23 min zone of the HPLC chromatogram in DAD at 280 nm of Figure 3 (lyophilized extract of Rosa damascena rose obtained by the process according to the invention).

Figure 5 represents, according to the study of Example 5, the maximum antioxidant efficacy of a freeze-dried rose extract obtained by the process according to the invention at different daily doses on a population presenting a non-oxidative skin state. physiological (n=18) (ANOVA test: **p-volue < 0.01, comparison with T0, t p<0.1 comparison of Rose extract obtained according to the invention 140mg vs 40 mg).

Figure 6 represents, according to the study of Example 6, the antioxidant efficacy after 4 and 8 weeks of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a dried rose extract on acerola support (50%) obtained by the process according to the invention and a melon powder rich in SOD (t-test *p<0.05, comparison with T0).

Figure 7 represents, according to the study of Example 6, the modification in terms of “skin age estimation” after 4 to 8 weeks of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a dried rose extract on acerola support (50%) obtained by the process according to the invention and a melon powder rich in SOD (t-test *p<0.05, comparison with the real age of the skin).

Figure 8 represents, according to the study of Example 7, the variation in skin radiance after 3 months of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a dried rose extract on acerola support (50%) obtained by the process according to the invention and a melon powder rich in SOD (Mann-Whitney test: * p-value < 0.05, **p-value < 0.01, comparison composition vs placebo).

Figure 9 represents, according to the study of Example 7, the difference in the L* parameter between two distinct areas of the skin after 3 months of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a dried rose extract on acerola support (50%) obtained by the process according to the invention and a melon powder rich in SOD (Mann-Whitney test: * p-value < 0.05, comparison composition vs placebo).

Figure 10 represents, according to the study of Example 7, the comparison of the face of a subject before (T0) and after (T90) 3 months of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a dried rose extract on acerola support (50%) obtained by the process according to the invention and a melon powder rich in SOD. The circles and the arrow highlight the parts of the face presenting pigmentary disorders and spots.

Figure 1 1 represents, according to the study of Example 7, the variation in the melanin index of the skin after 3 months of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a dried rose extract on acerola support (50%) obtained by the process according to the invention and a melon powder rich in SOD (Mann-Whitney test: **** p-value < 0.0001, comparison composition vs placebo).

Figure 12 represents, according to the study of Example 7, the variation in the quantity of H202 in the stratum corneum after 3 months of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a dried rose extract on acerola support (50%) obtained by the process according to the invention and a melon powder rich in SOD (Mann-Whitney test: * p-value < 0.05, comparison composition vs placebo).

DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS The invention relates to an extract obtained from a co-product of hydrodistillation of flowering tops of the Rosa damascene rose containing at least 10% polyphenols, preferably between 10% and 20% polyphenols, by weight of the total weight of the dry extract.

The polyphenols extracted in the co-product of hydrodistillation of Rosa damascena rose according to the invention are preferably hydroxybenzoic acids chosen from gallic acid, ellagic acid; quercetin and glycosylated flavonoids of quercetin such as rutin, hyperoside, isoquercitrin; kaempferol and glycosylated flavonoids of kaempferol such as afzelin, astragalin, tiliroside.

Particularly advantageously, the polyphenol-rich Rosa damascene extract obtained by the process according to the invention is free from the majority of allergenic substances chosen in particular from citronellol, eugenol, geraniol and can be advantageously used for topical administration.

An allergen is a substance that triggers or promotes an allergy, intolerance or reactions of the body's immune system following contact, inhalation or ingestion, particularly in the case of skin contact in the context of the invention.

For this purpose, the polyphenol-rich Rosa damascene extract obtained by the process according to the invention is advantageously intended to be used as such with the addition of a preservative, or in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium in a form suitable for oral or topical administration, preferably for oral administration.

Such extracts obtained according to the invention, although difficult to characterize as such because they can vary for the same species, depending on different factors such as the parts used, the place of harvest, the period or even the year of harvest, are relatively constant in terms of their composition.

For this purpose, the subject of the invention relates to a process for obtaining an extract obtained from a co-product of hydrodistillation of flowering tops of the Rosa damascene rose containing at least 10% of polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the dry extract, comprising the following steps:

- hydrodistillation of flowering tops, preferably fresh, of Rosa damascena rose;

- recovery of said deodorized co-product consisting of hydrodistillation water and rose flower tops;

- after filtration, concentration of the hydrodistillation waters carried out under continuous vacuum at a temperature not exceeding 100°C;

- the concentrated soft extract of Rosa damascena thus obtained is spray dried in the presence of a neutral support such as maltodextrin, gum arabic, inulin and/or from another plant extract such as an acerola extract, freeze-drying or extrusion on inulin support; and

- recovery of a dried extract of Rosa damascene containing at least 10% of polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the dry extract.

The process according to the invention makes it possible, in addition to the enrichment in polyphenols, to avoid the extraction of the majority of allergenic compounds in the co-product of hydrodistillation of Rosa damascena rose which are thus found essentially in the essential oil and therefore to obtain a Rosa damascene rose extract rich in polyphenols which can be advantageously used for oral and topical administration, preferably for oral administration.

The polyphenol-rich extract is a co-product of hydrodistillation obtained from the hydrodistillation of flowering tops, preferably fresh, of the Rosa damascene rose.

Flowering tops mean the part of the plant that includes the flower and part of the stem.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyphenol-rich extract is obtained from the rose flower, and preferably the petals.

According to a preferred embodiment, the Rosa damascene rose is used fresh.

Fresh means a rose which comprises at least 70% water by weight of the total weight of the part of the rose used, for example a water content of 80-90%, typically around 85% water, before or after loss to desiccation linked to picking in particular.

The freshly picked rose is fragile and can be kept as is for a maximum of a few hours, for example from a few minutes to 5 hours, for example 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 hour(s), and is preferably used as quickly as possible within 5 hours after picking, otherwise it will deteriorate and lose some or all of its properties.

The use of fresh roses could advantageously avoid a drying step, before hydrodistillation, which can be energy-intensive and/or which can lead to a deterioration of the color (oxidation), and the degradation of certain molecules potentially of interest such as polyphenols.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the flowering tops of the Rosa damascene rose used are fresh flowers.

Advantageously, the Rosa damascena rose preferentially used comes from cultivation for example in Türkiye (Isparta region) and in Bulgaria.

The polyphenol-rich extract is obtained from the waters of the hydrodistillation of Rosa damascena rose. Hydrodistillation means distillation by heating a mixture of water (additional) and plant material (Rosa damascene) in a container such as a still.

The purpose of hydrodistillation is to carry away with the water vapor the volatile constituents of rose by destroying the structure of the plant cells, which once condensed allows to recover after decantation an essential oil and a hydrosol containing mainly for example citronellol, geraniol, nerol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, methyl eugenol, eugenol and therefore the majority of allergenic substances such as citronellol, eugenol, geraniol. The essential oil and the hydrosol of rose, which are very high quality products commonly used in the first place, are thus “eliminated” according to the invention and used elsewhere.

Hydrodistillation is preferably carried out according to a weight/weight ratio of rose flower tops/water (additional) of 1:1 to 1:10, preferably 1:1 to 1:5, more preferably 1:3.

In the process according to the invention, the hydrodistillation waters are then cooled to a temperature between 40°C and 60°C before being filtered.

Hydrodistillation waters are understood to mean the effluents from hydrodistillation, i.e. the residual liquid aqueous fraction from hydrodistillation having removed its essential oil and hydrosol, i.e. the waters remaining for example in the still and possibly including the intrinsic rose water, preferably fresh, the hydrodistillation waters being, in other words, exhausted of their essential oil and hydrosol.

By deodorized co-product, we mean a co-product obtained once hydrodistillation has been carried out, exhausted of its essential oil and hydrosol, which is made up of hydrodistillation waters and the flowering tops of the rose, decanted, filtered to eliminate solid matter and thus recovered, allowing all the fractions of the rose to be recovered.

The deodorized co-product is thus made up of hydrodistillation waters and flowering tops and is free from essential oil and hydrosol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the filtration is carried out with a 1 m cartridge filter.

After filtration, the hydrodistillation waters are concentrated by evaporation.

The filtered hydrodistillation waters are concentrated under continuous vacuum at a temperature not exceeding 100°C.

According to another embodiment, the filtered hydrodistillation waters are concentrated at atmospheric pressure continuously at a temperature not exceeding 100°C followed by vacuum finishing.

A concentrated soft extract rich in polyphenols is then recovered.

Soft extract means a fluid extract with a dry matter content of 50% to 70%. The concentrated soft extract could be used as is, advantageously adding preservatives since said concentrated soft extract contains a water content of around 40%.

The concentrated soft rose extract thus obtained is dried by freeze-drying, atomization or extrusion on an inulin support, preferably by atomization, more preferably by atomization in the presence of a neutral support such as maltodextrin, gum arabic, inulin or any other atomization support and/or another plant extract such as an acerola extract.

According to a first advantageous embodiment, the drying is carried out by freeze-drying, dynamic or static.

Freeze-drying is a low-temperature drying process that removes water from a product. It consists of three steps: freezing the product, then sublimating it, and finally desorption.

Preferably, for example, freeze-drying is carried out in which the concentrated soft extract of Rosa damascene is frozen in the form of beads (3 to 5 mm in diameter) in liquid nitrogen at -196°C and the water present in the product is then dynamically sublimated in order to obtain beads of dry product.

Dynamic freeze-drying consists of introducing the product to be freeze-dried into a stirred chamber following an incomplete rotational movement. Stirring considerably improves the heat and material exchanges between the heating wall and the product to be sublimated. Thus, freeze-drying times are reduced by more than half the time, energy savings are reduced by at least 20% and labor operations are considerably reduced due to the bulk processing of the product.

Since the sublimation of the product takes place at low temperature and in the absence of oxygen, the product retains all its qualities and physicochemical properties.

Such freeze-drying allows to obtain a 100% pure Rosa damascene rose extract whereas with spray drying it is often necessary to use a support to facilitate drying.

According to a second advantageous embodiment, the drying is carried out by atomization in the presence of a neutral support such as maltodextrin, gum arabic, inulin or any other atomization support and/or another plant extract such as an acerola extract, preferably on an acerola support, more preferably on an acerola support (50%).

Atomization consists of dehydrating a solution in powder form by evaporating the solvent (usually water), by passing it through a flow of hot air. In fact, the solution is, in a first step, sprayed in the form of fine droplets in the upper part of a tower called an atomization chamber, by means of sprayers. These fine droplets meet at the same time a flow of hot air counter-current, thus allowing the evaporation of the solvent and drying. In this type of installation, there are three characteristic zones:

- a drying tower including the atomization chamber,

- a cyclone, and

- an internal and/or external fluidized bed.

Three types of sprayers can be used: centrifugal turbine, liquid pressure nozzles, bi-fluid nozzle.

There are two types of atomizer, namely single effect and multiple effect.

A “single effect” or “one-stage” atomization implies a very short residence time in the drying tower (from 20 to 60 seconds). For so-called “single effect” towers, the liquid is dried in the heat flow and then recovered at the bottom of the tower at the cyclone or bag filter. There is only one pass through the heat flow. The first generations of these towers have a flat bottom. In the second generation, the bottom becomes conical.

Preferably, the atomization carried out according to the invention is a single-effect atomization at high pressure, with an inlet temperature of 175°C or 165°C, and an outlet temperature of 80°C or 75°C.

According to a third advantageous embodiment, the drying is carried out by extrusion on an inulin support, for example 30-90% inulin, according to which inulin is mixed with the concentrated soft extract of Rosa damascene until a semi-solid mass is obtained, the mixture obtained is then extruded through a die, and finally, the filaments formed are cooled and then calibrated to the desired size to obtain granules or extrudates.

According to another embodiment, the extrusion is carried out from freeze-dried or atomized Rosa damascene extract.

According to another embodiment, a step of grinding the dried extract can be carried out after drying by freeze-drying and/or extrusion.

An extract of Rosa damascena rich in polyphenols, advantageously dried, containing at least 10% of polyphenols, preferably between 10% and 20% of polyphenols, by weight of the total weight of the dry extract is finally recovered.

The dried polyphenol-rich Rosa damascena extract obtained by the process according to the invention and containing at least 10% polyphenols, preferably between 10% and 20% polyphenols, by weight of the total weight of the dry extract, is in the form of granules or powder.

Among the behaviors that a powder can exhibit, flowability, solubility or even density are those that interest manufacturers the most.

For example, for uses as a food supplement in liquid form for example in a beverage or instant drink, in solid form for example in a biscuit, or for a cosmetic application, it is advantageous that the powder is homogeneous and little or not at all humid: the density can influence the encapsulation.

Another subject of the invention thus relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract obtained by the process according to the invention in a form suitable for oral administration.

A physiologically acceptable medium means a medium suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, including epidermal cells, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit/risk ratio.

Such a physiologically acceptable medium may comprise excipients known and used in the cosmetic and pharmacological fields. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the physiologically acceptable medium so that it does not harm the interesting properties of the extract and the compositions according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 100%, preferably 0.3 to 96%, of the extract containing at least 10% of polyphenols, preferably between 10% and 20% of polyphenols, for example 1%, 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60% or 70%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The dosage forms for oral administration used may be in solid or liquid form. Solid oral forms are generally tablets, hard capsules (gel capsules), soft capsules, sachets containing powder or granules, gums, powders, food supplements or foods presented for example in the form of biscuits. Liquid oral forms are generally oral solutions, syrups, elixirs, oral emulsions, oral suspensions, oral drops, drinks or instant drinks.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an extract obtained by the process according to the invention in which the concentrated soft extract of Rosa damascene is spray-dried on an acerola support (50%).

The composition according to the invention also comprises excipients and/or other active agent(s) preferentially chosen from a melon powder (cantaloupe melon) rich in superoxide dismutase (SOD), for example the product HOLIMEL® (280 IU).

The composition according to the invention may be presented in various forms acceptable for topical application, in particular in a solid form or in a liquid form, depending on the physiologically acceptable medium used.

The topical composition may be in the form of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) type, suspension, gel, paste, cream, lotion, solution, for example an aqueous, alcoholic, hydro-alcoholic or oily solution, or even a powder. Finally, another subject of the invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention comprising an extract obtained by the process according to the invention or even the extract obtained by the process according to the invention as such, advantageously with the addition of a preservative, in the food and cosmetic fields, or even the extract obtained by the process according to the invention as such or in an oral composition as a food supplement for its nutraceutical or nutricosmetic use.

By nutraceutical we mean an extract obtained by the process according to the invention or an oral composition comprising such an extract used in subjects with a preventive need, in phytotherapy or in human and animal health.

By nutricosmetics we mean the use of an extract obtained by the process according to the invention or of an oral composition comprising such an extract as a food supplement intended for the beauty and health of the skin and appendages.

Polyphenols have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties in particular.

Polyphenols and flavonoids have been shown to have, for example, a significant effect on the inhibition of cyclooxygenase (COX 1 and 2), lipooxygenase5 and lipooxygenase 12, collagenase, tyrosinase.

Antioxidants are compounds that can react with free radicals to prevent the oxidation of lipids, DNA, or proteins. Several studies report that free radicals are correlated with many diseases as well as cellular aging.

The compositions obtained by the process according to the invention, depending on the subjects, in particular those presenting a preventive need, can also be intended to be used in phytotherapy or in human and animal health, in particular for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties as a food supplement for its nutraceutical use in humans and/or animals.

The compositions can be advantageously used in nutricosmetic and nutraceutical products to limit the loss of elasticity of the skin and prevent the appearance of wrinkles, even out the complexion, to reduce symptoms related to menstruation such as fatigue, migraines, anxiety, abdominal pain during menstrual cycles in women, and can also improve cognitive performance, for example by allowing neuroprotection by preventing cognitive decline in animals.

In a particularly advantageous manner, and as illustrated in an example below, the composition obtained by the process according to the invention is used in a form suitable for oral administration for its beneficial effect on the complexion, for example lightening and anti-spot, to combat skin aging and pigmentary imperfections of the skin, in particular to improve the appearance of the skin, for example, increasing the radiance and luminosity of the skin, and evening out the complexion, for example, by improving pigmentary disorders and reducing irregularities in pigmentation.

By "signs of skin aging" we mean all changes in the external appearance of the skin due to aging such as, for example, wrinkles and fine lines, cracks, bags under the eyes, dark circles, sagging, loss of elasticity, firmness and/or tone of the skin, but also all internal changes to the skin that do not systematically result in a modified external appearance such as, for example, thinning of the skin, or any internal degradation of the skin resulting from environmental stress.

By "improving the appearance of the skin" we mean that the skin's texture appears finer, its luminosity more intense and its complexion more even. In addition, feelings of dryness, tightness and discomfort are reduced and redness is reduced.

The composition obtained by the process according to the invention is more preferably used to protect the skin and improve the complexion by contributing to stronger, more radiant and lively skin.

The composition obtained by the process according to the invention can also be used, in subjects with a preventive need or in human health, as a nutraceutical in the treatment of lentigos (or lentigine or age spots, senile lentigo, lentigo Solaris).

Lentigo is a hyperpigmented, flat or slightly raised macule that can be found anywhere on skin exposed to the sun and more rarely elsewhere, even on the nails or mucous membranes (labial, buccal, conjunctival, vulvar, vaginal or penile), with however a preference for photo-exposed areas. These lesions are often small (1 to 5 mm), but can measure up to 3 cm for those induced or co-induced by UV. They are round or oval, of a uniform color. Their limits are clear, except when they are located on the mucous membranes. Their color varies from buff yellow to very dark brown and is not modified by sun exposure. They can be isolated (lentigo simplex) or multiple, then falling within the framework of "lentiginosis". They are very common in elderly Caucasian or Asian people who have been exposed to the sun a lot. In all cases they develop with age (almost always after 50/60 years).

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Example of a process for obtaining a concentrated soft extract (not dried) of rose according to the invention from fresh flowers of Rosa damascene

Figure 1 illustrates the different steps of a process for obtaining a concentrated soft extract (not dried) of rose, that is to say the concentrated co-product of hydrodistillation where the rose flowers are depleted of their volatile molecules. In this process, 500 kg of fresh flowers (Rosa damascena picked in May-June 2023 in Turkey, 3-5 hours after picking, are placed in 1500L of water per still.

A 2-hour hydrodistillation is carried out to separate the distillate (essential oil + hydrosol) which is “eliminated” (and advantageously used elsewhere) and the co-product (consisting of the remaining hydrodistillation waters and the exhausted Rosa damascene rose flowers) which is recovered.

The co-product is allowed to cool and settle.

When the hydrodistillation water has returned to a temperature of around 40-60°C, around 500/600 L are taken (by pumping) per still and filtered.

The hydrodistillation waters filtered through a 1 m cartridge are then concentrated under continuous vacuum at a temperature not exceeding 100°C.

This gives approximately 5-10 kg per still of concentrated soft extract of Rosa damascene rich in polyphenols.

Example 2: Example of a process for obtaining a Rosa damascena rose extract according to the invention including a drying step by freeze-drying or atomization on a support

Figure 2 illustrates the different stages of a process for obtaining a dried extract of Rosa damascena rose, i.e. a co-product of hydrodistillation concentrated in polyphenols.

In this process example, 100 tons of fresh Rosa damascena flowers picked in May-June 2023 in Turkey are used, and hydrodistilled (for 2 hours) 3-5 hours after picking.

1-2 tonnes of concentrated soft rose extract thus obtained is then dried either by dynamic freeze-drying (frozen in the form of beads (3 to 5 mm in diameter) in liquid nitrogen at -196°C, sublimated dynamically, or by single-effect atomization at high pressure on acerola support (50% support).

In the end, we obtain respectively approximately 330-660 kg of pure extract (freeze-drying) and approximately 660-1200 kg diluted on a support (atomization) of Rosa damascena rose powder rich in polyphenols containing at least 10% of polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the dry extract.

Example 3: Analysis of the polyphenol and allergen composition of an extract obtained by the process according to the invention

The Rosa damascena rose extract according to the invention after drying by dynamic freeze-drying (for example obtained according to the method illustrated in Figure 2) is analyzed by a UV spectrophotometry method according to the Folin Ciocalteu method allowing a total dosage of polyphenols as well as by an HPLC method allowing an identification and quantification of the main polyphenols. The results are presented in Table 1. Table 1: Example of quantitative polyphenol composition of a batch of freeze-dried extract of Rosa damascene rose obtained by the process according to the invention

Table 2 below represents the results of HPLC analysis (DAD at 280 nm) of such a freeze-dried rose extract according to the invention and illustrated by the chromatograms of Figures 3 and/or 4.

non représenté(s) sur les Figures 3 et/ou 4 L’extrait de rose obtenu par le procédé selon l’invention ainsi analysé est riche en polyphénols et comprend environ 15% de polyphénols en poids du poids total de l’extrait sec, et plus particulièrement de l’acide gallique, acide ellagique, rutine, astragaline, tiliroside, quercétine et kaempférol. Table 2: Example of analytical composition in polyphenols of such a batch of freeze-dried extract of Rosa damascene rose obtained by the process according to the invention

not shown in Figures 3 and/or 4 The rose extract obtained by the process according to the invention thus analyzed is rich in polyphenols and comprises approximately 15% of polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the extract dry, and more particularly gallic acid, ellagic acid, rutin, astragalin, tiliroside, quercetin and kaempferol.

This same freeze-dried extract of Rosa damascene rose is analyzed to determine the titer of certain allergenic substances by comparison with the essential oil of Rosa damascene rose (obtained by hydrodistillation). The results are presented in Table 3.

Table 3: Indicative example of the quantification of certain allergenic substances in the freeze-dried extract of Rosa damascene rose obtained by the process according to the invention (the mention “-” means that the substance is present in a concentration of less than 1 ppm)

The process according to the invention made it possible to produce a Rosa damascena rose extract rich in polyphenols and advantageously also free of the majority of allergenic substances, in particular the allergenic substances usually present in rose essential oil, and therefore present in the rose flower.

Example 4: Example of a formulation of interest containing a rose extract obtained by the process according to the invention

The rose extract obtained using the process according to the invention can be used for a variety of cosmetic and/or food compositions. An example of a formulation is more particularly detailed in Table 4.

Table 4: Gum compositions

Example 5: Study of the bioavailability and antioxidant efficacy of a rose extract according to the invention as a function of the administered dose of said extract

PACT® SKIN technology was used to conduct a pilot clinical study aimed at evaluating the bioavailability and antioxidant power of the Rosa damascena rose extract according to the invention.

PACT® SKIN technology is a device that measures the total antioxidant activity of biological tissues such as skin. It allows measurements to be obtained directly on the surface of the tissue, using contact electrodes (identical to those used in cardiology). It is designed to measure the total concentration of oxidants and antioxidants in biological tissues. It is used to demonstrate the effectiveness of products in situ/in vivo in combating oxidative stress and to measure their bioavailability. This technology is based on measuring the electrochemical potential of the matrix, and is thus able to calculate the ratio of oxidized forms to reduced forms present in the environment.

The study was carried out on 2 groups of 18 subjects (women between 40-60 years old, showing signs of fatigue and in good general health) taking a single dose (oral intake) of freeze-dried extract of Rosa damascene rose (containing 14.8% polyphenols) according to the invention:

- Group 1: 140 mg of Rosa damascena extract;

- Group 2: 40 mg of Rosa damascena extract.

Each individual's PAOT scores were then measured at different times during the same day: Ton, Ï2h, Ï4h, Ï6h and Tsh.

The antioxidant efficacy obtained at different times is measured:

Antioxidant efficiency (%) = ((PAOT t _n -PAOT tO)/(PAOT to)) x 100

Since each individual is unique, the maximum PAOT efficacy is not obtained at the same time for each subject. For some subjects, this maximum is obtained 2 hours after administration, for others it is after 4 hours or even 6 hours after.

In order to overcome this variability, the maximum efficacy was calculated by averaging the maximum antioxidant efficacy obtained for each subject in the same group, regardless of the time at which it was measured, and the results obtained are illustrated in Figure 5.

A significant improvement of 74.02% in the maximum mean antioxidant efficacy was obtained at the 140 mg dose, this improvement being 27.07% at the 40 mg dose. In both cases, the increases in antioxidant efficacy are significant in comparison with To (p<0.01) and a trend towards significance is observed when comparing the 2 groups 140 mg vs 40 mg (p<0.1).

The following conclusions can be drawn from this:

- the rose extract according to the invention is bioavailable and induces an antioxidant effect;

- the highest dose of 140 mg provides better antioxidant efficacy than the dose of 40 mg (dose effect of the rose extract according to the invention);

- the antioxidant efficacy of the rose extract according to the invention is all the more pronounced as the initial oxidative state of the subject is high (low initial PAOT score).

Example 6: Evaluation of the antioxidant efficacy of oral supplementation for 8 weeks with a composition comprising a rose extract obtained by the process according to the invention

This study was carried out using the PAOT® SKIN technique, which measures the antioxidant capacity of the skin, on 40 volunteers, in a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. A composition comprising a rose extract obtained by the process according to the invention dried on acerola support (50%) (and containing 17.8% polyphenols) and a melon powder (cantaloupe melon) rich in superoxide dismutase (SOD) [280 mg rose extract on acerola / 20 mg melon powder or 280 IU] was thus evaluated.

The primary endpoint of this study is the assessment of the oxidative status of the skin using the PACT® SKIN technique. The secondary endpoint of this study is the assessment of the “real age” of the skin.

The composition according to the invention was tested and compared to a placebo formulation.

Oral supplementation took place over 8 weeks with 2 groups of 20 female subjects aged 40-60 (women between 40-60 years old, showing signs of fatigue and good general health).

The PAOT score was measured at day 0, 4 weeks and 8 weeks of supplementation.

As illustrated in Figure 6, after 4 weeks of daily intake, the composition comprising the rose extract obtained according to the invention showed a significant increase in antioxidant efficacy, which demonstrates bioavailability and effective and rapid action of the active ingredients.

After 8 weeks of daily intake, the group supplemented with the composition comprising the rose extract obtained according to the invention maintained its significant increase.

For the group supplemented with placebo, according to the data obtained, no significant improvement in antioxidant efficacy was observed during this study.

Also, as illustrated in Figure 7, after 4 weeks of daily intake, the composition comprising the rose extract obtained according to the invention allowed a significant improvement in the estimation of the age of the skin. Thus, the skin appears younger, which demonstrates bioavailability and an effective and rapid action of the active ingredients.

After 8 weeks of daily intake, the group supplemented with the composition comprising the rose extract obtained according to the invention maintained its significant increase.

For the group supplemented with placebo, according to the data obtained, no significant improvement in skin age estimation was observed during this study.

This study in particular made it possible to highlight the bioavailability and antioxidant efficacy of the rose extract obtained according to the invention.

The composition comprising the rose extract obtained according to the invention exhibits rapid and continuous effectiveness. Example 7: Evaluation of the effect of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a rose extract obtained by the process according to the invention on the complexion and oxidative state of the skin

The objective of the study is to evaluate the effect on the complexion (lightening, radiance, homogeneity) and the oxidative state of the skin of oral supplementation with a composition comprising a rose extract obtained by the process according to the invention dried on acerola support (50%) (and containing 12% polyphenols) and a melon powder rich in superoxide dismutase (SOD) [280 mg rose extract on acerola / 20 mg melon powder or 280 IU of SOD]. The study is carried out on 42 female volunteers, aged 40 to 65, with a dull and uneven complexion. The dosage of the composition is one capsule per day in the morning for 3 months from the first day of the study (T0).

The following parameters are analyzed over a period of 90 days: the melanin index, measured by SkincolorCatch™; the homogeneity of skin color, measured by the CR400™ chromameter; the skin radiance, measured by the GL200™ Glossymeter; and the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the superficial layer of the skin (D-SQUAME sample).

The above parameters are studied for 90 days and measured at the beginning of the study (T0), at 30 days after the beginning of the study (T30), at 60 days after the beginning of the study (T60) and at 90 days after the beginning of the study (T90). The results at T30, T60 and T90 are compared with the data at T0 and statistical analyses are performed using the ANOVA test with Tukey post hoc test. The alpha risk of 5% is defined. The significance threshold is p < 0.05. The comparison of the 2 groups at inclusion (T0) is examined. This analysis determines whether the groups are homogeneous and therefore comparable. If this is the case, statistical analyses are performed using the Mann-Whitney test. The alpha risk is defined at 5% and the significance threshold is p < 0.05.

Skin radiance is assessed using the GL200™ Glossmeter, which measures the light directly reflected on the skin and the light scattered. The “luminosity value” is thus measured. An increase in skin radiance is accompanied by an increase in the luminosity and shine value.

As illustrated in Figure 8, the composition obtained by the method according to the invention thus tested improves the radiance of the skin by 26% at T60, and by 40% at T90, compared to T0. Also, 100% of the subjects taking said composition show an improvement in the radiance of their skin at T60 and T90. The statistical comparison indicates a significant increase in the radiance of the skin in the group taking the composition obtained by the method according to the invention versus placebo. Skin color homogeneity is assessed using the CR400™ chromameter. The parameter studied is the brightness “L*”. To assess skin color homogeneity, the difference between two measurements of the brightness L* taken at two separate locations on the skin is calculated (outer edge and inner edge of the cheek).

As illustrated in Figure 9, the composition obtained by the method according to the invention thus tested improves the homogeneity of skin color by 47% at T60, and by 65% at T90, compared to T0. A significant improvement in the homogeneity of the complexion is obtained against placebo at T60.

As illustrated in Figure 10, the composition obtained by the process according to the invention thus tested visibly improves the homogeneity of the skin by promoting the lightening of light spots on the face.

The melanin index is assessed by SkincolorCatch™, which illuminates the skin at a 45° angle to eliminate the glare effect. A measurement of the melanin index is taken and is returned as a result between 0 and 999. The higher the melanin index, the richer the skin is in melanin.

As illustrated in Figure 1 1 , the composition obtained by the method according to the invention thus tested allows the reduction of the melanin index by 6% at T30, and by 9% at T60 and T90, compared to T0. The reduction is significantly greater than in the placebo group. Also, 100% of the subjects taking said composition show a reduction in the melanin index at T30, T60 and T90. A significant reduction in the melanin index is obtained against placebo at T30, T60 and T90.

The decrease in the melanin index indicates a lightening of the skin. The composition tested therefore has a lightening effect.

The composition obtained by the process according to the invention and administered orally has an effect on the radiance and uniformity of the complexion as well as a lightening effect.

The amount of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) in the stratum corneum (or horny layer) is an indicator of the skin's oxidation state. The decrease in H2O2 in the stratum corneum allows the protective effect of the product to be assessed. After sampling via D-SQUAME on the right cheek at T0 and T90, the colorimetric dosage of H2O2 is carried out. The final results are expressed in nmol H2O2/pg proteins.

As illustrated in Figure 12, the composition obtained by the method according to the invention thus tested induces a 7.5% decrease in the amount of cutaneous H2O2 at T90. A significant difference in the H2O2 level is obtained against placebo at T90.

Claims

1. Process for obtaining an extract obtained from a co-product of hydrodistillation of flowering tops of Rosa damascene rose containing at least 10% of polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the dry extract, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - hydrodistillation of flowering tops, preferably fresh, of Rosa damascena rose; - recovery of said deodorized co-product consisting of hydrodistillation water and flowering tops; - after filtration, concentration of the hydrodistillation waters carried out under continuous vacuum at a temperature not exceeding 100°C; - the concentrated soft extract of Rosa damascene thus obtained is spray dried in the presence of a neutral support such as maltodextrin, gum arabic, inulin and/or another plant extract such as an acerola extract, freeze-drying or extrusion on inulin support; and - recovery of a dried extract of Rosa damascena containing at least 10% of polyphenols by weight of the total weight of the dry extract. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the flowering tops of the Rosa damascena rose are fresh flowers. 3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrodistillation waters are cooled to a temperature between 40°C and 60°C before being filtered. 4. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filtration is a filtration carried out with a cartridge filter at 1 m. 5. Extract in the form of granules or powder obtained from a co-product of hydrodistillation of flowering tops of the Rosa damascena rose containing at least 10% polyphenols, preferably between 10% and 20% polyphenols, by weight of the total weight of the dry extract obtained by the process according to one of claims 1 to 4. 6. Extract according to claim 5, characterized in that the polyphenols are hydroxybenzoic acids chosen from gallic acid, ellagic acid; quercetin and glycosylated flavonoids of quercetin such as rutin, hyperoside, isoquercitrin; kaempferol and glycosylated flavonoids of kaempferol such as afzelin, astragalin, tiliroside. 7. Composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that it is in a form suitable for oral administration. 8. Use of a composition according to claim 7 in the food and cosmetic fields. 9. Use according to claim 8 for combating skin aging and pigmentary imperfections of the skin. 10. Use according to claim 9 for improving the appearance of the skin and evening out the complexion. 1 1. Composition according to claim 7, as a food supplement for its nutraceutical or nutricosmetic use.