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WO2025003444A1 - Composition comprenant différents extraits - Google Patents

Composition comprenant différents extraits Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2025003444A1
WO2025003444A1 PCT/EP2024/068317 EP2024068317W WO2025003444A1 WO 2025003444 A1 WO2025003444 A1 WO 2025003444A1 EP 2024068317 W EP2024068317 W EP 2024068317W WO 2025003444 A1 WO2025003444 A1 WO 2025003444A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
propane
extract
composition according
weight
hydroxy
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2024/068317
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English (en)
Inventor
Stéphanie Cheilian
Audrey Gueniche
Suzy LEVOY
Rawad ABDAYEM
Romain ROUMIGUIERE
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of WO2025003444A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025003444A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Definitions

  • TITLE Composition comprising different extracts
  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • the skin is a tissue in which cells are contiguous and firmly attached to each other. Skin tissue forms an external coating comprising sebaceous or sudoriferous glands, and hair follicles.
  • the skin, and particularly the scalp, are continuously renewed epithelia. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process leading to the elimination of surface cells, insensibly and invisibly.
  • the human skin is composed of two compartments, namely a surface compartment (the epidermis) and a deep compartment (the dermis).
  • the epidermis is conventionally divided into a base layer of keratinocytes forming a germinative layer of the epidermis, a layer called the spinous layer composed of several layers of polyhedric cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three layers called the stratum granulosum composed of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains and finally, a set of upper layers called corneal layers (or stratum corneum), composed of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.
  • corneal layers or stratum corneum
  • Corneocytes are anucleate cells composed principally of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a corneal envelope. There is permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation.
  • fragility of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external attacks such as irritants (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), xenobiotic imbalances (undesirable micro-organisms, allergens) or internal attacks of the psychological stress type.
  • irritants detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes
  • thermal or climatic imbalances cold, dryness, radiation
  • xenobiotic imbalances undesirable micro-organisms, allergens
  • internal attacks of the psychological stress type such as irritants (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), xenobiotic imbalances (undesirable micro-organis
  • Hydrating agents conventionally used such as humectants, hydrating polymers or fatty bodies such as petroleum jelly, temporarily modify the surface properties of the skin.
  • These active agents can increase the mechanical suppleness of the stratum corneum, increase its state of hydration and/or improve the microrelief of the skin by the formation of a surface film on the skin. In general, these effects are not remanent in time and only last for a few hours. Furthermore, after the skin has been cleaned, these active agents are eliminated and the effect of increased mechanical suppleness of the skin, improved skin texture or optical properties of the skin disappear.
  • the epidermis undergoes numerous modifications which result with age in an alteration of the microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and a reduction in skin firmness.
  • Maintaining or restoring a cornified envelope having satisfactory maturation is essential for preserving a good quality barrier function providing protection against external attacks and long-term hydration of the skin, in particular of the epidermis.
  • the present invention helps meet these needs.
  • the invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one C- glycoside.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.
  • the invention also relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • the present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reinforcing the barrier function and/or enhancing skin hydration.
  • the composition also enhances skin quality and/or brightness of the complexion.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reinforcing skin firmness.
  • skin means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), neckline and neck.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratin materials of at least one composition according to the invention. More particularly, the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process as defined above for enhancing and/or reinforcing the skin barrier function, in particular to help maintain a skin with a good quality barrier function.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one Withania somnifera extract.
  • the Withania somnifera Dunal. species was described by the Swedish naturalist Carl von Linne, then reclassified in 1852 by the French botanist Michel Felix Dunal. Its area of distribution extends from the Mediterranean rim to China, via Africa, Australia, the Middle East, India, and Sri Lanka.
  • Withania somnifera is a small-sized shrub, with a height not generally exceeding 170 cm.
  • the roots are thick and fleshy with a light brown bark; the stem is capitaous at the base, and extensively branched. Its leaves are oval, subacute and hispid on their lower surface.
  • the self-fertile flowers form groups of 3 to 6 in small axillary glomerules and 20 25 7 their calices, accrescent after blooming, persist around the fruit in the form of lobes.
  • the fruit is a small bright red pisiform berry.
  • Withania somnifera is considered as an adaptogenic plant, i.e., as a plant that increases the body's ability to adapt to different types of stress.
  • all or part of the Withania somnifera plant may be used as an extract.
  • the part of the plant used as an extract is chosen in the group comprising the root, the fruit, the flower, the seed, the leaf, the stem.
  • the part of the plant used is the root. It may consist of fresh, frozen, dried, whole, chopped and/or ground root.
  • it consists of dried and ground root.
  • the Withania somnifera extract may in particular be obtained with an extraction process comprising a step of solid/liquid extraction of at least a part of the plant, followed by a second step of solid/liquid separation and finally a third step of recovering the liquid phase,
  • the solvent used by this process is a mixture of fructose, glycerin and optionally water.
  • the solvent may contain water, or be devoid of water.
  • the presence of water in the solvent has however the advantage of fluidifying the solvent, and thus facilitating extraction.
  • the solvent consists of a mixture of fructose, glycerin and water.
  • Plant extracts being frequently intended to be formulated in cosmetic compositions, it is important to avoid extraction solvents comprising salts or acids, at least traces of which will necessarily be found in the extract.
  • the formulation, as gel or as emulsion, of ingredients based on salts above a dose of 0.1% is particularly complex.
  • acids by lowering the pH of the extracts obtained, have the effect of rendering the formulation as gel or as emulsion difficult.
  • cosmetic products intended for skin application must have an adapted pH, preferably similar to that of the skin (around pH 6.5), or neutral. Under these conditions, the use of solvents containing acids hence requires the addition of excipients, in particular pH regulators.
  • the solvent has the properties of a eutectic solvent or NaDES.
  • eutectic solvent or “Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent (NaDES)” means a mixture of compounds of natural origin capable of being used as a solvent and having a superstructure based on hydrogen interactions.
  • NOESY for Nuclear Overhauser Effect SpectroscopY
  • correlation spots expresses a certain spatial proximity between the spins considered, and makes it possible to detect the NaDES superstructure.
  • the solvent is in particular liquid at ambient temperature, which facilitates the use of the process resulting in the extract according to the invention.
  • the solvent consists of a mixture of fructose, glycerin and water in molar proportions preferably of approximately 1 :1 :5.
  • the solvent used may be produced by mixing fructose and glycerin, or fructose, glycerin and water, in a stirred reactor, until a colorless clear mixture is obtained. This mixing may be carried out at a temperature between 2°C and 100°C and for 30 minutes to 6 hours, preferably 40°C to 70°C for 1 hour to 2 hours.
  • the extract is capable of being obtained with a process using a solid/liquid extraction step. Particularly, it consists of a Withania somnifera root extract, advantageously dried and ground.
  • the solid/liquid extraction may be performed using different techniques well known to a person skilled in the art, such as maceration, re- maceration, digestion, dynamic maceration, decoction, fluidized-bed extraction, microwave-assisted extraction, ultrasound-assisted extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, re-percolation, leaching, low-pressure extraction, diacolation.
  • the plant/solvent mass ratio applied for the extraction step is between 1 :99 and 50:50.
  • the extraction step is performed preferably at a temperature between 2°C and 100°C, more preferably between 20°C and 80°C.
  • the extraction step may be maintained for a few minutes to several days.
  • the solid/liquid extraction step is advantageously carried out under stirring and/or in a nitrogen atmosphere.
  • the solid/liquid extraction step is followed by a solid/liquid separation step, the aim being to recover the liquid phase, also known as solid/liquid separation filtrate, containing the active substance.
  • This separation may be performed using any technique known in the art, in particular draining, pressing, spin-drying, centrifugation or filtration.
  • the solid/liquid separation step may also be followed by a step of fractionation of the raw extract, which makes it possible to obtain a fraction enriched with one or more families of molecules extracted from the plant.
  • the fractional step may be performed using techniques known in the art, in particular low-pressure chromatography or tangential membrane filtration.
  • the liquid/solid separation step or the fractionation step may be followed by a step of concentrating the raw extract or the fraction, which makes it possible to obtain a concentrate, in liquid or semi-solid form according to the concentration factor.
  • the concentration step may be performed by low-pressure evaporation or reverse osmosis.
  • the solid/liquid separation filtrate or the concentrate furthermore undergo one or more clarification steps.
  • any type of filtration known in the field in question may be used.
  • the process for obtaining the extract according to the invention may comprise a sterilization step by sterilizing filtration or pasteurization for example.
  • Sterilizing filtration is conventionally carried out by filtering the product through a filter comprising pores of a diameter of approximately 0.22 pm.
  • the sterilizing filtration step is the final step of the process.
  • a microbiological preservative may be added to the extract prior to the sterilization step, preferably a mixture of citric acid and potassium sorbate.
  • the Withania somnifera extract according to the invention is a Withania somnifera root extract. It is in particular marketed by Gattefosse under the name "EnergiNius”, and is in the form of a mixture of Withania somnifera extract at 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of the mixture, 46.7% by weight of fructose, 23% by weight of glycerin, 23% by weight of water, 0.2% by weight of potassium sorbate 0.2% and 0.1 % by weight of citric acid.
  • the Withania somnifera extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.001 % and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01 % and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract.
  • Terminalia ferdinandiana also known as Kakadu plum, gubinge, murunga or billygoat plum
  • Kakadu plum also known as Kakadu plum, gubinge, murunga or billygoat plum
  • Terminalia ferdinandiana is a flowering plant from the Combretaceae family, native to Australia where it is widespread in woods. Its fruit has the highest vitamin C content (fifty times greater than that of an orange) of all fruit. It is also very rich in phenolic acid (antioxidants).
  • the fruit is yellow-green, about 2 centimeters long and 1 centimeter in diameter, almondsized with a short beak at the time, and contains one large seed. It ripens from March onward.
  • terminalia ferdinandiana plant may be used as an extract.
  • the part of the plant used as an extract is chosen in the group comprising the root, the fruit, the flower, the seed, the leaf, the stem.
  • the part of the plant used is the fruit. It may consist fresh, frozen, dried, whole, chopped and/or ground fruit. Preferably, the fruit is whole (i.e., with seeds).
  • the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract may in particular be obtained with a process for cold extraction of at least a part of the plant, in particular under pressure. Then the process may comprise a sterilization step, for example by sterilizing filtration. Finally, the extract obtained may be mixed with a solvent.
  • the solvent is preferably a glycol such as glycerin, propylene glycol or pentylene glycol. Preferably, the solvent is pentylene glycol.
  • the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract according to the invention is a Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract. It is in particular marketed by Biocosmethic under the name "Kalmethic", and is in the form of a mixture at 97% by weight of Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract with respect to the total weight of the mixture and 3% pentylene glycol.
  • the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.01% and 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.02% and 1 % by weight, preferably between 0.03% and 1 % by weight.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one Lactobacillus extract.
  • the Lactobacillus extract is an inactivated Lactobacillus extract.
  • the Lactobacillus extract is a Lactobacillus plantarum (L. Plantarum) extract.
  • the Lactobacillus extract is an L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) extract. This extract is in particular marketed by Probi AB.
  • L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) is a bacterial strain of lactic acid selected based on its high tannase activity. This product is used as a probiotic.
  • the Lactobacillus is formulated with a prebiotic, preferably a maltodextrin.
  • the Lactobacillus extract is obtained with the following steps: fermentation of L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313); then centrifugation and recovery of the precipitate; passage of the precipitate in a granulator then addition of a cryoprotectant and freeze- drying; mixing with a maltodextrin and water; pasteurization; then drying to remove water and obtain a powder.
  • the Lactobacillus extract is in particular marketed by Symrise under the name “Symreboot L19", and is in the form of a mixture at 80% by weight of L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) extract with respect to the total weight of the mixture and 20% maltodextrin.
  • the Lactobacillus extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.001% and 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 0.8% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 0.6% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one C- glycoside.
  • the C-glycoside (or C-glycoside derivative) according to the invention is preferably according to the following general formula (I):
  • - R represents a C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, saturated linear alkyl radical, optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, where R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical;
  • - X represents a radical chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-,
  • - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide including up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of L and/or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide optionally being substituted by an obligatorily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function(s), and
  • the bond S-CH2-X represents a C-anomeric type bond, which may be a or p, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and the optical and geometric isomers thereof.
  • the C-glycosides of formula I usable for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a C1 to C6, in particular C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2, saturated linear alkyl radical and more preferably a methyl radical.
  • alkyl groups suitable for the implementation of the invention mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, secbutyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl groups.
  • a C-glycoside derivative complying with the formula (I) may also be used, for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of L and/or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide having at least one obligatorily free hydroxyl function and/or optionally one or more obligatorily protected amine functions, X and R retaining moreover all of the definitions previously given.
  • a monosaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from D- glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl- D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.
  • a polysaccharide according to the invention containing up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide associating a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N- acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose which can advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-p-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules bonded by a 1 -4 bond.
  • S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L- fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
  • - R represents a C1 to C4, in particular C1 to C2, non-substituted linear alkyl radical, in particular methyl;
  • - S represents a monosaccharide as described above, preferably D-glucose, D- xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
  • - X represents a radical selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-, and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group.
  • the salts acceptable for non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
  • organic acids salts which may include one or several carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid group(s). They may consist of linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or indeed aromatic acids. These acids may further include one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may particularly be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
  • the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be performed by a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
  • a mineral base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2
  • an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
  • This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may include one or nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and can therefore include for example one or more alcohol functions; mention may in particular be made of amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl)-l ,3- propanediol. Mention may furthermore be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino)propylamine.
  • the acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final preparation step of said compounds due to the presence of solvents.
  • solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.
  • C-a-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane isomers thereof or mixtures thereof.
  • C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, is used.
  • a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention may be advantageously C- beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, of which the INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL.
  • This active agent may be marketed in the form of mixture comprising for example 30% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol active substance with respect to the total weight of mixture in 60% by weight of water and 40% propylene glycol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C-glycoside derivative at a content from 1% to 21 % by weight of active substance with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 9% by weight of active substance, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight of active substance.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.
  • the ascorbic acid according to the invention preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has a structure according to formula (II):
  • ascorbic acid derivative preferably denotes a compound chosen from 5,6-di-O- dimethylsilylascorbate (particularly sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), DL- alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate potassium salt also known as Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by SEPPIC under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by DSM under the reference Stay-C 50), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.
  • the ascorbic acid derivative is ascorbyl glucoside.
  • ascorbyl glucoside denotes a condensation product of glucose, in D form, i.e., in a or p glucopyranose or a or furanose, or in L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in L form.
  • the ascorbyl glucoside is L-ascorbic acid 2-O-a-D-glucopyranoside, particularly available from HAYASHIBARA.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid, preferably L-ascorbic acid, or ascorbyl glucoside.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises from 1 % to 15% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of the derivatives thereof with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of active substance, and more particularly from 1 .5% to 5% by weight of active substance.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • Cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium compatible with the skin, mucosa and/or skin appendages.
  • compositions according to the invention may be in any galenic forms commonly used for a topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, of oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsions, of aqueous gels, or of dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules may consist of ionic- and/or nonionic-type lipid vesicles (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes). These compositions are prepared using routine methods.
  • compositions according to the invention may also be in anhydrous form, such as for example in the form of an oil.
  • Anhydrous composition denotes a composition containing less than 1 % by weight of water, or less than 0.5% of water, and particularly free from water, water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
  • compositions according to the invention are in the form of gel, or emulsion, powder or paste.
  • composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, of an ointment, of a milk, of a lotion, of a serum, of a paste, of a foaming gel, of a treatment, of a tonic or of a foam. It could possibly be applied on the skin in the form of a spray. It may also be in solid form, and for example in stick form.
  • composition used according to the invention includes an oily phase
  • the latter preferably contains at least one oil. It can further contain other fats.
  • oils suitable for use in the composition according to the invention mention may be made for example of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol "810", “812" and "818" by CREMER OLEO, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
  • esters and synthetic esters in particular fatty acids, such as oils having formulas RCOOR2 and ROR2 wherein R is the residue of a fatty acid including from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl-malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polybutene such as Parleam oil;
  • - fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
  • silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally volatile with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or silicon chain-end groups, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
  • PDMS polymethylsiloxanes
  • cyclomethicones such as cyclohexasiloxane
  • hydrocarbon oil in the list of oils cited above denotes any oil comprising mostly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • the other fats that can be present in the oily phase are for example fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1 -4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicon elastomers such as the products marketed under the trade names "KSG” by Shin-Etsu, under the trade names "Trefil", "BY29” or “EPSX” by Dow Corning or under the trade names "Gransil” by Grant Industries.
  • fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, la
  • fats may be selected in varied ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the sought properties, for example consistency or texture properties.
  • the composition may comprise at least one emulsifier, in particular chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or in a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier.
  • the emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (water-in-oil or oil-in-water).
  • the emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are present, in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain usual ingredients in the cosmetics sector, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, pasty fats, sun protection filters or UV filter, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, alkaline agents, acids, sequestering agents, polyols, non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactants.
  • usual ingredients in the cosmetics sector such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, pasty fats, sun protection filters or UV filter, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, alkaline agents, acids, sequestering agents, polyols, non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactants.
  • composition according to the invention may obviously comprise other barrier effect active agents and/or other hydrating active agents different from the extracts of the invention.
  • the quantities of these various ingredients are conventionally the quantities used in the field considered, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • These ingredients depending on their nature, may be introduced in the fatty phase in the aqueous phase and/or in lipid vesicles.
  • compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase contains water and optionally other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.
  • An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may for example comprise water chosen from among a natural spring water, for example such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reinforcing the barrier function and/or enhancing skin hydration.
  • the composition also enhances skin quality and/or brightness of the complexion.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reinforcing skin firmness.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratin materials of at least one composition according to the invention. More particularly, the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process as defined above for enhancing and/or reinforcing the skin barrier function, in particular to help maintain a skin with a good quality barrier function.
  • the process according to the invention may comprise an application repeated for example 1 to 3 times daily for one day or several days, preferably 1 to 2 times per day, and particularly over a prolonged period of at least 4, or 4 to 15 weeks, with where applicable one or more break periods.
  • the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may comprise a single application.
  • a process according to the invention will comprise the topical application of a composition according to the invention on the skin, in particular on facial skin.
  • Claudins are major constituents of tight junction complexes which regulate permeability of epithelia.
  • the primary antibody was then detected using a suitable fluorescent secondary antibody (GAM-Alexa488, Invitrogen #A1 1001 ) and the cellular nuclei were stained using Hoechst 33258 solution (bisbenzimide, Sigma, #B1155) in parallel.
  • the image acquisition was carried out with a high-resolution imaging system, the INCell AnalyzerTM2200 automated microscope (GE Healthcare). For each well, 5 images were take (x20 lens).
  • the labeling was quantified by measuring the fluorescence intensity of each standardized protein at the total number of nuclei identified by Hoechst 33258 staining (Numerical data integration with Developer Toolbox 1 .5, GE Healthcare software).
  • the trio according to the invention tested at low concentration (i.e., "Trio" of 0.017% Symreboot L19, 0.0335% Energinius and 0.0135% Kalmethic), with 0.067% ascorbyl glucoside (Vit CG) and with 0.167% hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (HT) diluted to 35%, significantly stimulated Claudin-1 expression, whereas none of these ingredients exhibited a significant effect when tested alone. Furthermore, the combination effect was clearly greater than the sum of the individual effects thus demonstrating a significantly greater effect between hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, ascorbyl glucoside and the trio.
  • the trio according to the invention stimulated ZO-1 expression, whereas this was not the case for all the compounds, even in paired combinations.
  • a formula F according to the invention i.e., containing the trio combination ( Terminalia ferdinandiana extract at 0.4% active substance and Lactobacillus extract at 0.1% active substance and Withania somnifera extract at 0.07% active substance), ascorbyl glucoside (2% active substance) and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (6.3% active substance), in a medium comprising in particular water and glycerin, was demonstrated thanks to a TEWL test after stripping using: 24 women from 18 to 63 years (mean age: 47 ⁇ 13 years):
  • Formula F contains raw materials with a good wilderness quality index and/or of natural origin and particularly of plant origin.
  • the GAGs were then purified by ion exchange chromatograph: adsorption of the anionic molecules onto Q-Sepharose beads and desorption of the weakly and moderately anionic molecules using a specific buffer. The radioactivity incorporated in the molecules bound to the substrate was then measured by liquid scintillation.
  • Subjects 40 Asian women for clinical score by a dermatologist, aged from 25 to 60 years, 50% with sensitive skin (reported), showing signs of skin aging on the face and living in urban areas, with an inclusion grade > 2 and ⁇ 6 for the following parameters: Skin firmness (touch).
  • the evaluation is carried out using:
  • Formula F according to the invention of example 3 was used. Subjects: See the table hereinafter relating to sex and ethnicity, from 25 to 60 years, 50% with sensitive skin (reported), showing signs of skin aging on the face and living in urban areas, with an inclusion grade > 2 and ⁇ 6 for the following parameter: Skin firmness (touch). Application: Twice daily (morning and evening) on face, neck and upper chest.
  • Evaluation method Self-assessment questionnaires: Five-point scale /: “Agree” and “Somewhat agree” responses as %, after 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 8 weeks of application from respondents to the following questions: "My skin is firmer”.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, de préférence cosmétique, comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable : au moins un extrait de Withania somnifera ; au moins un extrait de Terminalia ferdinandiana ; et au moins un extrait de Lactobacillus. L'invention concerne également des utilisations et des procédés faisant appel à cette composition.
PCT/EP2024/068317 2023-06-30 2024-06-28 Composition comprenant différents extraits Pending WO2025003444A1 (fr)

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH02295912A (ja) 1989-05-10 1990-12-06 Shiseido Co Ltd 肌用化粧料
US20100260695A1 (en) * 2009-04-09 2010-10-14 Mary Kay Inc. Combination of plant extracts to improve skin tone
US20160008270A1 (en) * 2014-07-11 2016-01-14 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic compositions and methods of their use
CN114344206A (zh) * 2021-11-29 2022-04-15 齐鲁工业大学 具有美白功效的益生菌发酵的青梅花护肤品及制备方法
WO2023274986A1 (fr) * 2021-06-28 2023-01-05 ASC REGENITY Limited Composition nutraceutique de soin de la peau

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH02295912A (ja) 1989-05-10 1990-12-06 Shiseido Co Ltd 肌用化粧料
US20100260695A1 (en) * 2009-04-09 2010-10-14 Mary Kay Inc. Combination of plant extracts to improve skin tone
US20160008270A1 (en) * 2014-07-11 2016-01-14 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic compositions and methods of their use
WO2023274986A1 (fr) * 2021-06-28 2023-01-05 ASC REGENITY Limited Composition nutraceutique de soin de la peau
CN114344206A (zh) * 2021-11-29 2022-04-15 齐鲁工业大学 具有美白功效的益生菌发酵的青梅花护肤品及制备方法

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DAI ET AL., ANALYTICA CHIMICA ACTA, vol. 766, 2013, pages 61 - 68
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 22 July 2021 (2021-07-22), ANONYMOUS: "Clean Freak Nutrient Boosted Daily Sunscreen SPF 30 - Naturally Scented", XP093117123, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/8886209/ Database accession no. 8886209 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 22 May 2023 (2023-05-22), ANONYMOUS: "Fill + Repair Serum", XP093117121, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/10775776/ Database accession no. 10775776 *

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