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WO2025000142A1 - Hair styling composition with biodegradable polymers - Google Patents

Hair styling composition with biodegradable polymers Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2025000142A1
WO2025000142A1 PCT/CN2023/102193 CN2023102193W WO2025000142A1 WO 2025000142 A1 WO2025000142 A1 WO 2025000142A1 CN 2023102193 W CN2023102193 W CN 2023102193W WO 2025000142 A1 WO2025000142 A1 WO 2025000142A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
silica
composition
particles
weight
composition according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/CN2023/102193
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Shuiping WU
Xiaoping Liu
Fan Wang
Chen Xie
Tan WANG
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Nivea Shanghai Co Ltd
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Nivea Shanghai Co Ltd
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Nivea Shanghai Co Ltd, Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Nivea Shanghai Co Ltd
Priority to PCT/CN2023/102193 priority Critical patent/WO2025000142A1/en
Priority to PCT/EP2024/063143 priority patent/WO2025002647A1/en
Priority to CN202480003949.9A priority patent/CN119789841A/en
Priority to EP24726570.5A priority patent/EP4558118A1/en
Publication of WO2025000142A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025000142A1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • a beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. Therefore, an essential part of the daily personal care of humans is focus on the hair of the head.
  • the hair is first cleaned using a shampoo.
  • a conditioner may be applied to provide a conditioning of the hair.
  • the conditioners can be formulated either as rinse-off product, which is applied to the hair and afterwards rinsed off with water, or as leave-in product, which remains in the dry or wet hair after application.
  • the hair can be styled using a fixation crème, gel or spray.
  • a mousse for the hair may be applied to fix the style or enhance the curling of the hair.
  • hair styling compositions preferably contain film forming polymers as styling agent wherein the polymers enhance the stiffness of the hair.
  • polymers used as styling agents may asset the style retention or re-styling properties of the hair.
  • non desired film forming styling polymers are PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
  • biodegradable polymers More and more raw material companies are working on biodegradable polymers to replace non-biodegradable polymers.
  • biodegradable polymers in styling compositions is limited. These polymers often do not provide sufficient film forming or styling properties. Thus, these polymers do not achieve the experience consumer are used to by synthetized polymers especially designed for the purpose of hair styling.
  • biodegradable polymer is cellulose gum. It has been used in various cosmetic applications as the document US 9918923 B1 discloses. Cellulose gum as part of a styling composition can provide moderate styling hold by use of its film forming properties. A further disadvantage is that the polymer film on the hair may break once external force, e.g. by combing, when applied to the hair. As a result, the film flakes of the hair and flakes appear.
  • the objective of the present invention is therefore to provide styling compositions with biodegradable polymers which do not suffer the disadvantages outlined above.
  • the present invention is a cosmetic styling composition
  • a cosmetic styling composition comprising
  • composition is free from non-biodegradable film forming styling polymers, i.e., free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
  • non-biodegradable film forming styling polymers i.e., free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carb
  • composition comprising
  • composition is free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
  • a further object of the invention is the use of at least one particle comprising or consisting of at least silica and/or modified silica in a cosmetic hair styling composition comprising cellulose gum to
  • composition is free from non-biodegradable film forming styling polymers, preferably free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
  • non-biodegradable film forming styling polymers preferably free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-
  • normal conditions refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
  • the term “free from” means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05%by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as “free from” according to the invention.
  • skin refers solely to the human skin.
  • hair refers solely to the human head hair.
  • viscosity values relate to a measurement at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from the company proRheo.
  • the Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used.
  • Measuring body No. 1 (Article No. 200 0191) , suitable for a viscosity range of up to 10,000 [mPa s] , speed range 62.5 min -1 , is used as the measuring body.
  • Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name “emulsifying agent” .
  • Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name “surfactant” .
  • the cosmetic styling composition comprises
  • At least one particle comprising or consisting of silica.
  • the cosmetic styling composition comprises
  • the total quantity of the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and most preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total quantity of those particles is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and most preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 1 to 100 ⁇ m, preferably from 2 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably from 3 to 10 ⁇ m.
  • the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 100 to 2000 m 2 /g, preferably from 200 to 1200 m 2 /g and most preferably from 500 to 900 m 2 /g.
  • the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average oil absorption potential from 50 to 800 ml/100g, preferably from 100 to 600 ml/100g and most preferably from 150 to 400 ml/100g.
  • a commercial silica according to the invention is Sunsphere H-52.
  • the “average particle size” is to be understood as meaning the volume-average particle diameter D50, which can be determined by the usual methods, for example by laser diffractometry.
  • the particles comprising or consisting of modified silica are selected from silica dimethyl silylate and silica cetyl silylate. In one embodiment it is preferred if dimethyl silylate is contained. In another embodiment it is preferred if silica cetyl silylate is contained.
  • silica dimethyl silylate and/or silica cetyl silylate are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of silica dimethyl silylate and/or silica cetyl silylate is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and most preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the contained silica dimethyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 1 to 100 ⁇ m, preferably from 4 to 50 ⁇ m and most preferably from 10 to 20 ⁇ m.
  • the contained silica dimethyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 20 to 250 m 2 /g, preferably from 50 to 180 m 2 /g and most preferably from 80 to 150 m 2 /g.
  • a commercial silica cetyl silylate according to the invention is Aerosil R 972.
  • the contained silica cetyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 0.001 to 1 ⁇ m, preferably from 0.002 to 0.5 ⁇ m and most preferably from 0.01 to 0.05 ⁇ m.
  • the contained silica cetyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 20 to 450 m 2 /g, preferably from 100 to 280 m 2 /g and most preferably from 140 to 250 m 2 /g.
  • a commercial silica cetyl silylate according to the invention is Aerosil R 816.
  • the ratio by weight between cellulose gum and the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica is in the range from 30: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably from 20: 1 to 2: 1 and most preferably from 15: 1 to 5: 1.
  • compositions comprise further ingredients commonly used in those compositions. Thereby, it should not be neglected that the ingredients benefit the inventive concept of the present invention.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.
  • ethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethanol is in the range from 0.5 to 50%by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 15%by weight and most preferably from 3.0 to 10%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises water as cosmetic carrier.
  • water is contained, it is preferred if the quantity of water is in the range from 50 to 98%by weight, more preferably from 70 to 94%by weight and most preferably from 85 to 93%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair styling composition of the present invention preferably comprises one or more emulsifier.
  • emulsifiers can be selected from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic emulsifier. Most preferred are non-ionic emulsifiers.
  • Non-ionic emulsifier can preferably be selected from polyalkyleneglycol ether of fatty acid glycerides or partial glycerides containing 4 to 500 polyalkylene units. Suitable, but not limited, examples of those are PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-70 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-75 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-150 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • polyalkyleneglycol ether of fatty acid glycerides or partial glycerides are defined by the following formula III
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are independently selected from a hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical comprising 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and wherein v, w and x are an integer in the range from 0 to 500, wherein sum of the integer v, w and x has to be equal to or larger than 3.
  • Suitable examples are PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-6 glyceryl caprate, PEG-3 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-15 glyceryl diisostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl diisostearate, PEG-12 glyceryl distearate, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.
  • non-ionic emulsifiers are PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides and mixtures thereof.
  • the total concentration of one or more non-ionic emulsifier in the hair styling composition of the present invention is preferably in the range from 0.1%to 5%by weight, and more preferably in the range from 0.3 to 0.8%by weight calculated to the total composition.
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides are contained as non-ionic emulsifier, whereby the total concentration of both emulsifiers in the composition of the present invention is in the range from 0.3 to 0.8%by weight calculated to the total composition.
  • compositions comprise one or more preservation agents.
  • Preservatives are substances which prevent the decomposition of a cosmetic composition by microbial growth or undesirable chemical changes. It is preferred if the preservation agents are selected from hydroxyacetophenone, benzyl alcohol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chlormethylisothiazolinone, DMDM-hydantoin and phenoxyethanol.

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Abstract

A hair styling composition with biodegradable polymers comprises a) cellulose gum, and b) at least one particle comprising or consisting of silicaand/or modified silica, wherein the composition is free from non-biodegradable film forming styling polymers.

Description

Hair styling composition with biodegradable polymers Technical field
The present invention belongs to a cosmetic field, and specifically relates to a hair styling composition comprising cellulose gum and at least one silica particle or modified silica particle. The composition according to the present invention provides excellent styling properties upon application to human hair.
Technical background
A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. Therefore, an essential part of the daily personal care of humans is focus on the hair of the head. Typically, the hair is first cleaned using a shampoo. Afterwards, a conditioner may be applied to provide a conditioning of the hair. Thereby, the conditioners can be formulated either as rinse-off product, which is applied to the hair and afterwards rinsed off with water, or as leave-in product, which remains in the dry or wet hair after application. After conditioning, the hair can be styled using a fixation crème, gel or spray. Alternatively, a mousse for the hair may be applied to fix the style or enhance the curling of the hair.
All the above listed products have in common that their formulations often contain polymers for various beneficial reasons. For example, polymers may be used for thickening or film building purposes, as well as to provide care or to aid as deposition enhancer in the cosmetic compositions. Hair styling compositions preferably contain film forming polymers as styling agent wherein the polymers enhance the stiffness of the hair. Additionally, polymers used as styling agents may asset the style retention or re-styling properties of the hair. Moreover, it is desirable that the polymers used as styling agent do not make the hair feel dry upon application. Especially for aqueous or alcoholic gel sprays, which are applied to dry hair, it is beneficial if the hair feels wet and/or moist while styling.
However, traditional, chemically synthesized film forming polymers often have the drawback that these polymers are non-biodegradable. Thus, these are not friendly to the environment. Typical examples of those non desired film forming styling polymers are PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
More and more raw material companies are working on biodegradable polymers to replace non-biodegradable polymers. However, in general the use of biodegradable polymers in  styling compositions is limited. These polymers often do not provide sufficient film forming or styling properties. Thus, these polymers do not achieve the experience consumer are used to by synthetized polymers especially designed for the purpose of hair styling.
One biodegradable polymer is cellulose gum. It has been used in various cosmetic applications as the document US 9918923 B1 discloses. Cellulose gum as part of a styling composition can provide moderate styling hold by use of its film forming properties. A further disadvantage is that the polymer film on the hair may break once external force, e.g. by combing, when applied to the hair. As a result, the film flakes of the hair and flakes appear.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the present invention is therefore to provide styling compositions with biodegradable polymers which do not suffer the disadvantages outlined above.
It was now surprisingly found by the applicant that the objective can be met by the present invention.
The present invention is a cosmetic styling composition comprising
a) cellulose gum, and
b) at least one particle comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica.
wherein the composition is free from non-biodegradable film forming styling polymers, i.e., free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
Further the invention is a cosmetic styling composition comprising
a) cellulose gum, and
b) at least one particle comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica.
wherein the composition is free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
It was surprisingly found by the applicant that by employing the invention a superior hold can be achieved and the appearance of flakes after application and drying of the composition can significantly be reduced.
A further object of the invention is the use of at least one particle comprising or consisting of at least silica and/or modified silica in a cosmetic hair styling composition comprising cellulose gum to
- increase the hold of the hair after application of the composition to the hair, and/or
- reduce the flaking off of the composition from the hair after application of the composition to the hair.
It is preferred if the composition is free from non-biodegradable film forming styling polymers, preferably free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
All the weight percentages (%by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.
Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions” . The term "normal conditions" refers to 20℃, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
In the following description the terms ” according to the invention” , “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the composition and to the method according to the invention.
For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05%by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as "free from" according to the invention.
The term “skin” refers solely to the human skin. The term “hair” refers solely to the human head hair.
If viscosity values are given in this disclosure, then all values relate to a measurement at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from the company proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. Measuring body No. 1 (Article No. 200 0191) , suitable for a viscosity range of up to 10,000 [mPa s] , speed range 62.5 min-1, is used as the measuring body.
Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent" . Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant" .
In one embodiment of the invention the cosmetic styling composition comprises
a) Cellulose gum, and
b) At least one particle comprising or consisting of silica.
In another embodiment of the invention the cosmetic styling composition comprises
a) Cellulose gum, and
b) At least one particle comprising or consisting of modified silica.
Still, in another embodiment of the invention the cosmetic styling composition comprises
a) Cellulose gum, and
b) At least one particle comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica.
The following description is valid for all embodiments of the invention, for the case that the named ingredient is contained.
The total concentration of cellulose gum in the composition of the present invention is preferably in the range from 0.1%to 10%, more preferably from 0.5%to 4%and most preferably from 0.8%to 2%by weight calculated to the total composition.
It is preferred if the total quantity of the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and most preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further, it is preferred if the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica are characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 10 to 2000 m2/g, preferably from 15 to 1000 m2/g and most preferably from 20 to 900 m2/g.
Further, it is preferred if the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica are characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 0.001 to 100 μm, preferably from 0.01 to 50 μm and most preferably from 1 to 20 μm.
For the case that particles comprising or consisting of silica are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those particles is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and most preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further, it is preferred if the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 1 to 100 μm, preferably from 2 to 20 μm and most preferably from 3 to 10 μm.
Further, it is preferred if the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 100 to 2000 m2/g, preferably from 200 to 1200 m2/g and most preferably from 500 to 900 m2/g.
Further, it is preferred if the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average oil absorption potential from 50 to 800 ml/100g, preferably from 100 to 600 ml/100g and most preferably from 150 to 400 ml/100g.
A commercial silica according to the invention is Sunsphere H-52.
For the purposes of the present invention, the “average particle size” is to be understood as meaning the volume-average particle diameter D50, which can be determined by the usual methods, for example by laser diffractometry.
The volume-average particle diameter D50 is that point in the particle size distribution at which 50%by volume of the particles have a smaller diameter and 50%by volume of the silicone particles have a larger diameter.
The average specific surface area is determined using ASTM D1993-22.
The average oil absorption potential is determined using the standard test method JIS K 5101-13-2: 2004.
For the case that particles comprising or consisting of modified silica are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those particles is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and most preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention it is preferred if the particles comprising or consisting of modified silica are selected from silica dimethyl silylate and silica cetyl silylate. In one embodiment it is preferred if dimethyl silylate is contained. In another embodiment it is preferred if silica cetyl silylate is contained.
For the case that silica dimethyl silylate and/or silica cetyl silylate are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of silica dimethyl silylate and/or silica cetyl silylate is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and most preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further, it is preferred if the contained silica dimethyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 1 to 100 μm, preferably from 4 to 50 μm and most preferably from 10 to 20 μm.
Further, it is preferred if the contained silica dimethyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 20 to 250 m2/g, preferably from 50 to 180 m2/g and most preferably from 80 to 150 m2/g.
A commercial silica cetyl silylate according to the invention is Aerosil R 972.
Further, it is preferred if the contained silica cetyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 0.001 to 1 μm, preferably from 0.002 to 0.5 μm and most preferably from 0.01 to 0.05 μm.
Further, it is preferred if the contained silica cetyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 20 to 450 m2/g, preferably from 100 to 280 m2/g and most preferably from 140 to 250 m2/g.
A commercial silica cetyl silylate according to the invention is Aerosil R 816.
According to all embodiments of the invention it is preferred if the ratio by weight between cellulose gum and the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica is in the range from 30: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably from 20: 1 to 2: 1 and most preferably from 15: 1 to 5: 1.
In addition, it is preferred if the compositions comprise further ingredients commonly used in those compositions. Thereby, it should not be neglected that the ingredients benefit the inventive concept of the present invention.
For example, it is preferred if the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol. For the case ethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethanol is in the range from 0.5 to 50%by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 15%by weight and most preferably from 3.0 to 10%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further it is preferred if the composition comprises water as cosmetic carrier. For the case that water is contained, it is preferred if the quantity of water is in the range from 50 to 98%by weight, more preferably from 70 to 94%by weight and most preferably from 85 to 93%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
The hair styling composition of the present invention preferably comprises one or more emulsifier. These emulsifiers can be selected from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic emulsifier. Most preferred are non-ionic emulsifiers.
Non-ionic emulsifier can preferably be selected from polyalkyleneglycol ether of fatty acid glycerides or partial glycerides containing 4 to 500 polyalkylene units. Suitable, but not limited, examples of those are PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 hydrogenated  castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-70 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-75 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-150 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated castor oil.
Further preferred of polyalkyleneglycol ether of fatty acid glycerides or partial glycerides are defined by the following formula III
wherein R3, R4 and R5 are independently selected from a hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical comprising 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and wherein v, w and x are an integer in the range from 0 to 500, wherein sum of the integer v, w and x has to be equal to or larger than 3. Suitable examples are PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-6 glyceryl caprate, PEG-3 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-15 glyceryl diisostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl diisostearate, PEG-12 glyceryl distearate, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.
The most preferred non-ionic emulsifiers are PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides and mixtures thereof.
The total concentration of one or more non-ionic emulsifier in the hair styling composition of the present invention is preferably in the range from 0.1%to 5%by weight, and more preferably in the range from 0.3 to 0.8%by weight calculated to the total composition.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention only PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides are contained as non-ionic emulsifier, whereby the total concentration of both emulsifiers in the composition of the present invention is in the range from 0.3 to 0.8%by weight calculated to the total composition.
Further it is preferred if the compositions comprise one or more preservation agents. Preservatives are substances which prevent the decomposition of a cosmetic composition by microbial growth or undesirable chemical changes. It is preferred if the preservation agents  are selected from hydroxyacetophenone, benzyl alcohol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chlormethylisothiazolinone, DMDM-hydantoin and phenoxyethanol.
For the case that one or more preservation agents are contained it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 0.1 to 3.0%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
For the case that hydroxyacetophenone, benzyl alcohol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chlormethylisothiazolinone, DMDM-hydantoin and/or phenoxyethanol are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 0.1 to 3.0%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The hair styling composition of the present invention preferably contains one or more water-soluble solvents. Preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. The concentration of the one or more water-soluble solvents in total is in the range of preferably 0.1%to 5%, more preferably 0.25%to 3%and most preferably 0.5%to 2%by weight calculated to the total composition.
The hair styling composition of the present invention can further comprise at least one vitamin, provitamin or derivatives thereof to provide additional care to the hair and/or the skin. This vitamin, provitamin or derivative thereof can be selected from all substances assigned to the groups of vitamin A, vitamin B, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin F and vitamin H. Preferred are the vitamins, provitamins and derivatives thereof which are assigned to the vitamin B group. Most preferred vitamins which can be contained in the composition of the present invention are panthenol and/or nicotinic acid amide.
The vitamins, provitamins and derivatives thereof are preferably used in a total concentration of 0.05%to 1%by weight calculated to the total composition.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention only panthenol and/or nicotinic acid amide are included as vitamins, provitamins and derivatives thereof in the composition of the present invention.
The hair styling composition of the present invention may further contain one or more additional film-forming or hair-strengthening polymers which are not already excluded, and  which can be selected from the group of anionic polymers, cationic polymer, non-ionic polymers and/or amphoteric polymers.
However, as the hair styling composition of the present invention solely provides surprisingly good styling properties, it is preferred that the composition of the present invention is free from further film-forming or hair-strengthening polymers.
In the sense of the present invention silicone containing polymers are explicitly not considered as film-forming or hair-strengthening polymers. Hence, the hair styling composition of the present invention may further contain one or more silicone containing substances to provide an effective conditioning of the hair. These substances may be silicone oils or silicon containing polymers, such as Silicone Quaternium-18 or other quaternary ammonium groups and silicon containing polymers.
However, as silicone compounds often lead to hair being weighed down, it is preferred that the hair styling composition of the present invention is free from silicone containing polymers.
Another category of conditioning agents which may optionally be added to the hair styling composition of the present invention are protein and polyprotein hydrolysates, such as hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed wheat protein and/or hydrolyzed collagen.
The hair styling composition according to the invention may also comprise substances such as UV-filter, dyes, ubiquinone such as coenzyme Q10, plant extracts, antioxidants such as oryzanol, and fragrances.
The hair styling composition according to the present invention may preferably be a mouse for the hair, an aerosol hair spray, a non-aerosol gel spray, a gel and/or a wax. More preferred is a non-aerosol gel spray, which has a viscosity of 0.2 to 200 mPa·sat a temperature of 20℃, and is contained in a pump spray.
By any means, in some embodiments it is preferred if the composition is part of a cosmetic hair styling product. In particular, the cosmetic hair styling product comprises a packaging and the cosmetic composition according to the invention, whereby the composition is stored inside the packaging. In some embodiments it is preferred if the packaging is an aerosol spray device, wherein the device comprises a housing storing the cosmetic composition and a propellant, an actuator and a valve, whereby the valve has an open position allowing for a fluid communication from inside of the housing to the outside of the housing and a closed  position, and whereby the actuator allows for an opening of the valve from a closed to an open position.
Examples
The following examples should illustrate the hair styling composition of this invention, without, however, intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. The compositions are prepared by mixing the individual components in water.
To value the styling properties of the compositions the following parameters were assessed by the hairdressers: the stiffness and the flaking after the hair tresses were dry normal room conditions.
The detailed test procedure was according to the following protocol:
The hair tresses were washed using a shampoo composition which was free of any conditioning agent. For that purpose, the hair tresses were wetted with warm water, then shampoo was applied and spread through the hair for 10 seconds. For each sample the same amount of shampoo was applied. Afterwards the shampoo composition was rinsed off  the hair with warm water until no shampoo remained. Before applying the example compositions to be tested, the hair tresses were dried.
To assess the styling properties, 2g styling composition per 8g hair tresses were spread on the dry hair tresses. Afterwards, it was waited at room conditions until the hair was fully dried. To evaluate the stiffness of the hair, the hairdresser analyzed the force which needed to be applied to bend the hair tresses with the fingers. Then the hair tresses were combed with a brush. The flakes on hair and brush were evaluated.
Each parameter was rated with a score value between 0 and 7, whereby 0 means bad and 7 corresponds to good. A score of 7 for the stiffness means that the hair was stiff. A score of 7 for no flaking means that no flakes appeared.
It can be noted that the examples according to the invention were superior to the comparative example Com. 1.

Claims (18)

  1. Cosmetic styling composition comprising
    a) cellulose gum, and
    b) at least one particle comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica.
    wherein the composition is free from non-biodegradable film forming styling polymers, preferably free from PVP, hydroxyethyl acrylate/methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate, VP/VA copolymer, carbomer, polyquaternium-55 and polyquaternium-69.
  2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the total concentration of cellulose gum in the composition of the present invention is in the range from 0.1%to 10%, preferably from 0.5%to 4%and more preferably from 0.8%to 2%by weight calculated to the total composition.
  3. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the total quantity of the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  4. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica are characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 10 to 2000 m2/g, preferably from 15 to 1000 m2/g and more preferably from 20 to 900 m2/g.
  5. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the particles comprising or consisting of silica and/or modified silica are characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 0.001 to 100 μm, preferably from 0.01 to 50 μm and more preferably from 1 to 20 μm.
  6. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 1 to 100 μm, preferably from 2 to 20 μm and more preferably from 3 to 10 μm.
  7. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 100 to 2000 m2/g, preferably from 200 to 1200 m2/g and more preferably from 500 to 900 m2/g.
  8. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the particles comprising or consisting of silica are characterized in that the particles have an average oil absorption potential from 50 to 800 ml/100g, preferably from from 100 to 600 ml/100g and more preferably from 150 to 400 ml/100g.
  9. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that silica dimethyl silylate and/or silica cetyl silylate are contained.
  10. Composition according to claim 9 characterized in that the total quantity of silica dimethyl silylate and/or silica cetyl silylate is in the range from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 1.0%and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Composition according to claim 9 or 10 characterized in that the contained silica dimethyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 1 to 100 μm, preferably from 4 to 50 μm and more preferably from 10 to 20 μm.
  12. Composition according to any of claims 9-11 characterized in that the contained silica dimethyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 20 to 250 m2/g, preferably from 50 to 180 m2/g and more preferably from 80 to 150 m2/g.
  13. Composition according to claim 9 or 10 characterized in that the contained silica cetyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average particle size from 0.001 to 1 μm, preferably from 0.002 to 0.5 μm and more preferably from 0.01 to 0.05 μm.
  14. Composition according to any of claims 9-10 and 13 characterized in that the contained silica cetyl silylate is characterized in that the particles have an average specific surface area from 20 to 450 m2/g, preferably from 100 to 280 m2/g and more preferably from 140 to 250 m2/g.
  15. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the ratio by weight between cellulose gum and the particles comprising or consisting of silica  and/or modified silica is in the range from 30: 1 to 1: 1, preferably from 20: 1 to 2: 1 and more preferably from 15: 1 to 5: 1.
  16. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that ethanol is contained and the total quantity of ethanol is in the range from 0.5 to 50%by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 15%by weight and more preferably from 3.0 to 10%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  17. Composition according to any proceeding claim characterized in that that water is contained and the quantity of water is in the range from 50 to 98%by weight, preferably from 70 to 94%by weight and more preferably from 85 to 93%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  18. Use of at least one particle comprising or consisting of at least silica and/or modified silica in a cosmetic hair styling composition comprising cellulose gum to
    a. increase the hold of the hair after application of the composition to the hair, and/or
    b. to reduce the flaking off of the composition from the hair after application of the composition to the hair.
PCT/CN2023/102193 2023-06-25 2023-06-25 Hair styling composition with biodegradable polymers Pending WO2025000142A1 (en)

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PCT/EP2024/063143 WO2025002647A1 (en) 2023-06-25 2024-05-14 Hair styling composition with biodegradable polymers
CN202480003949.9A CN119789841A (en) 2023-06-25 2024-05-14 Hair styling composition with biodegradable polymer
EP24726570.5A EP4558118A1 (en) 2023-06-25 2024-05-14 Hair styling composition with biodegradable polymers

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1314137A (en) * 2000-03-07 2001-09-26 莱雅公司 Thickened hair composition containing fixing polymer and powder compound
JP2011246352A (en) * 2010-05-21 2011-12-08 Kikuboshi:Kk Hair styling agent composition
US20150190319A1 (en) * 2012-06-21 2015-07-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a polymer comprising a sugar unit
CN105007887A (en) * 2013-03-29 2015-10-28 株式会社漫丹 hair conditioner composition
US9918923B1 (en) * 2017-02-28 2018-03-20 L'oreal Leave-on hair styling compositions and methods of use

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101155572A (en) * 2005-02-01 2008-04-02 荷兰联合利华有限公司 Hair treatment composition comprising particles and hydrophobic oil

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1314137A (en) * 2000-03-07 2001-09-26 莱雅公司 Thickened hair composition containing fixing polymer and powder compound
JP2011246352A (en) * 2010-05-21 2011-12-08 Kikuboshi:Kk Hair styling agent composition
US20150190319A1 (en) * 2012-06-21 2015-07-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a polymer comprising a sugar unit
CN105007887A (en) * 2013-03-29 2015-10-28 株式会社漫丹 hair conditioner composition
US9918923B1 (en) * 2017-02-28 2018-03-20 L'oreal Leave-on hair styling compositions and methods of use

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