WO2025098825A1

WO2025098825A1 - A personal care composition and a method of treating skin

Info

Publication number: WO2025098825A1
Application number: PCT/EP2024/080511
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anita DAMODARAN; Naresh Dhirajlal Ghatlia; Amitabha Majumdar; Mruthyunjaya Swamy MATHAPATHI; Tanya Rachael THOMAS
Original assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV; Conopco Inc
Current assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV; Conopco Inc
Priority date: 2023-11-09
Filing date: 2024-10-29
Publication date: 2025-05-15
Anticipated expiration: 2026-05-09

Abstract

The present invention relates to a personal care composition. Particularly, the present invention relates to a personal care composition that improves the barrier function of the skin. The composition comprises one or more activators of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor; and a skin care active selected from one or both of an oil extracted from seeds of a Moringa species and farnesol.

Description

A PERSONAL CARE COMPOSITION AND A METHOD OF TREATING SKIN

Field of Invention

The present invention relates to a personal care composition. Particularly, the present invention relates to a personal care composition that improves the barrier function of the skin.

Background to the Invention

Human skin is an important barrier between the body and the environment. Critical for the barrier function of the skin is the lipid matrix found in the stratum corneum. A healthy matrix within the stratum corneum is one which is rich in about an equimolar mixture of ceramides (45-50% by weight), cholesterol (25% by weight) and fatty acids (10-15% by weight) whereby other lipids, like cholesterol sulfate, make up the balance, Kathi C. Madison, Barrier Function of the Skin: “La Raison d’Etre” of the Epidermis, The Society for Investigative Dermatology, Inc. (2003). These fatty acids and waxy lipids regulate the water barrier and retention capacity of skin and they also limit the entry of pollutants and microorganisms that contact skin from the environment. Moreover, the production of ceramides in the skin results in the generation of sphingosines that improve a variety of skin characteristics.

Unfortunately, due to factors e.g. exposure to pollutants, excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiations and age, levels of such fatty acids and lipids decline which invariably results in skin that is not supple, dry and even wrinkled. Depletion of the skin’s lipid matrix also causes the skin to become more sensitive to contaminants in the environment and often is associated with conditions such as eczema, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

Efforts have been made to fortify the fatty acids and lipid matrix of the skin.

WO2022/136357 (Unilever) discloses a prolipid composition that penetrates the stratum corneum. More particularly, it discloses a prolipid composition that provides personalized benefits by rapidly restoring the skin’s natural lipid balance. Such a composition results in elongated fatty acid and/or lipid production deep in the stratum corneum and near the surface of the stratum lucidum. The composition at least comprises a hydrocarbon source comprising a fatty acid, fatty ester and/or an acylglycerol thereof; and an activator of a peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor.

The present inventors, whilst working in the field of skin treatments, have surprisingly found that a personal care composition comprising an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor; and a skin care active selected from one or both of an oil extracted from seeds of a Moringa species and farnesol, improved barrier function of the skin. Moreover, the barrier function of the skin was found to be improved when the composition was applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.

Summary of the Invention

In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising: a. 0.05 to 8 wt% one or more activators of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor; and b. a skin care active selected from one or both of: i. 0.01 to 2 wt% oil extracted from seeds of a Moringa species and ii. 0.0001 to 5 wt% farnesol.

In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method of providing improved barrier protection to skin comprising the steps: a. applying to the skin the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10; and b. optionally, rinsing-off the skin.

In a third aspect, the present invention relates to a kit comprising (i) a packaged product containing the composition of the first aspect; and (ii) instructions for use.

Detailed Description of the Invention

All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent from the description and examples which follow.

Skin, as used herein, means the skin on the feet, face, neck, chest, arms (including underarms), hands, legs, buttocks, back and scalp (including hair). The composition of the present invention (i.e. , end use composition ready to apply and leave-on, or wash off) includes creams, lotions, serums, gels, balms, deodorants and antiperspirants (including aerosols), shampoos, mousses, conditioners, bars and liquid wash products. In one aspect, the end use composition of the present invention is a personal wash composition, a face wash product or a leave-on product, such as a cosmetic cream or lotion to be applied to the face, body or hands. In another aspect, the end use composition is a cosmetic leave-on product suitable to reduce wrinkles, moisturize and/or result in skin having an even colour or tone. Cosmetic (i.e., skin care) means herein regulating and/or improving cosmetic qualities of the skin. Examples of skin care (cosmetic) benefits in the context of this invention include providing a smoother, more even texture; improving the elasticity or resiliency of the skin; improving the firmness of the skin; improving the hydration status or moisturization of the skin; improving skin barrier properties; and reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation, redness or skin blotches.

Preferably, the composition (i.e. , end use composition) of the present invention is a prolipid composition, meaning a composition that is suitable to restore the fatty acid content, ceramide and/or cholesterol levels of consumers. Therefore, the prolipid composition of the present invention is one which results in personalized results in that it can restore fatty acid content, ceramide and/or cholesterol levels, depending on what the consumer’s matrix content needs.

Rapidly restoring the skin’s natural lipid balance preferably means enhancing the formation of elongated fatty acid and/or ceramide and not impeding cholesterol formation within the stratum corneum by including at least one activator of a peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor in the composition of this invention. A long-lasting skin resilience barrier preferably means providing a fatty acid and lipid balance for at least 1.5 weeks, and preferably, for at 2.5 weeks, and most preferably, for at least 4 weeks after topically applying the composition.

Unless explicitly stated otherwise, all ranges described herein are meant to include all ranges subsumed therein. The term comprises is meant to encompass the terms consisting essentially of and consisting of. As to the percentages used herein, the same are meant to be by weight of the composition unless stated otherwise and may be abbreviated as “wt%”. Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers used in this description indicating amounts, or ratios of materials and/or use thereof are to be understood as modified by the word “about”. In the context of the time of applying the composition at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am, the term ‘about’ is meant to include a modification of about 15 to 30 minutes from the time range specified therein. For example, about 5 pm is meant to include 15 of 30 minutes earlier than 5 pm, i.e. 4:45 pm or 4:30 pm. Similarly, about 12 am is meant to include 12:15 am or 12:30 am.

Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising: a. 0.05 to 8 wt% one or more activators of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor; and b. a skin care active selected from one or both of: i. 0.01 to 2 wt% oil extracted from seeds of a Moringa species and ii. 0.0001 to 5 wt% farnesol. The composition comprises one or more activators of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) hereinafter referred to as PPAR activator, i.e. the composition comprises at least one PPAR activator.

A PPAR activator that is suitable for use, the same is typically 10-hydroxystearic acid (10- HSA) 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), cis parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis 5,8,11 ,14,17 eicosapentanoic acid, cis-4,7, 10, 13, 16, 19 docosahexenoic acid, conjugated linoleic acid (c9,t11), columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2- hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11 ,14-eicosadienoic acid, conjugated linoleic (t10,c12), conjugated linoleic acid (t9,t11), conjugated linoleic acid (50:50 mix of c9, t11 and t10 c12), coriander acids, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearolic acid, thuja extract or trans vaccenic acid.

Even other PPAR activators suitable for use include cis-11 ,14,17 eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5 eicosenoic acid, cis-8,11 ,14 eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselaidic acid, cis 13, 16 docosadienoic acid, cis vaccenic acid, cis-11 eicosenoic acid, cis-13,16,19 docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15-octadecanoic acid, cis- 7,10,13,16 docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranyl geranoic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, petroselinyl alcohol, phytanic acid, pinolenic acid, trans- 13-octadecenoic acid or tridecyl salicylic acid (TDS).

Preferably, the PPAR activator selected is petroselinic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, 12-HSA, 10-HSA, ricinoleic acid or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the PPAR activator is 12-HSA.

Typically, PPAR activator will make up from 0.05 to 8.0% and preferably, from 1 to 6%, and most preferably, from 1.5 to 4.5% by weight of the composition. In an aspect of the invention, the composition will have from 1.5 to 4%, and in still another aspect, from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight PPAR activator.

The composition further comprises a skin care active selected from one or both of an oil extracted from seeds of a Moringa species and farnesol. In other words, the composition comprises an oil extracted from seeds of Moringa species and/or farnesol. Preferably, the composition comprises both, an oil extracted from seeds of moriga oil and farnesol.

Preferably, if the composition comprises the oil extracted from seeds of Moringa species, then it is selected from seeds of at least one of the following species of Moringa e.g. Moringa oleifera, Moringa pterygosperma, Moringa peregrina, Moringa concanensis or Moringa drouhardir, preferably from the seeds of Moringa oleifera or Moringa pterygosperma.

If the composition comprises oil extracted from seeds of Moringa then the same is present in amounts from 0.01 to 2 wt%, preferably from 0.02 to 1.75 wt%, more preferably from 0.05 to 1.5 wt%, even more preferably from 0.075 to 1 .25 wt% and alternatively from 0.75 to 1 wt% of oil extracted from Moringa species. It will be understood that the oil so contained in the composition may be an oil that is a mixture of oils extracted from one or more of Moringa species described above.

Preferably, if the composition comprises farnesol, then it is present in amounts from 0.0001 to 5 wt%, more preferably from 0.001 to 4.5 wt%, even more preferably from 0.01 to 4 wt%, further more preferably form 0.1 to 3.5 wt%, and still more preferably from 1 to 3 wt% farnesol. Farnesol is an organic compound containing 15 carbon atoms. It is an acyclic sesquiterpene alcohol.

Preferably, the invention relates to a personal care composition comprising: a. 0.05 to 8 wt% one or more activators of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor; and b. 0.01 to 2 wt% oil extracted from seeds of a Moringa species; and c. 0.0001 to 5 wt% farnesol.

Leave-on

Preferably, the composition is a leave-on product. Examples of leave-on products include a cream, a lotion, a gel. More preferably, the composition is a leave-on product in the form of a cream. ‘Leave-on’ composition preferably means a composition which is not required to be removed from the surface it is applied on to, e.g. skin, after the application of the composition like e.g. skin cream, body lotion, hand sanitizer and deodorants.

If the composition is in the form of a cream, then it preferably comprises from 3 to 25 wt%, more preferably 4 to 22 wt%, even more preferably from 7 to 20 wt%, further more preferably from 10 to 19 wt% and still more preferably 12 to 18 wt% additional fatty acids.

By ‘additional fatty acid, it is meant that a fatty acid other than those used as PPAR activators e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid. Such fatty acids when present in the composition along with a soap, provide the so-called vanishing cream effect, i.e. a composition, when applied on to the human skin, vanishes on the skin leaving behind no significant streaks of the composition. The additional fatty acid may be selected from fatty acids having carbon atoms preferably in the range 10 to 22, more preferably 12 to 22, even more preferably 14 to 22, further more preferably 16 to 22, yet more preferably from 18 to 22. Examples of such fatty acids that may be used in the composition include lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, arachidic, behenic, erucic acid and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the fatty acid that may preferably be used is stearic acid or palmitic acid or a mixture thereof. The fatty acid in the present invention is preferably hysteric acid which is substantially (generally about 90 to 95%) a mixture of stearic acid and palmitic acid where amount of palmitic acid may range from 40 to 65% and that of stearic acid may range from 34 to 58%.

If the composition is in the form of a cream, then it preferably further comprises from 0.1 to 10 wt%, more preferably 1 to 8 wt%, even more preferably 2 to 7 wt%, further more preferably 2 to 6 wt%, even further more preferably 2 to 5 wt% and most preferably 2 to 4 wt% soap.

Soap when present in combination with the additional fatty acids in the composition, it provides the so-called vanishing effect. Soap of the invention is generally prepared by in-situ neutralization of the additional fatty acids that may be present in the composition. Thus, it is preferred that the soap has a carbon chain length that corresponds to the chain length of the additional fatty acids in the composition. The soap is formed from the additional fatty acids through the use of alkali metal hydroxides e.g. sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Of the two, potassium hydroxide is more preferred. Thus, the soap is preferably a potassium soap (potassium salt of fatty acid).

Preferably, the leave-on composition of the invention comprises water. Amounts of water may preferably range from 10 to 95 wt%, more preferably from 15 to 85 wt%, even more preferably from 35 to 80 wt%, and further more preferably from 40 to 75 wt%.

The leave-on composition of the invention may be in the form of an emulsion e.g. a water-in- oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. In such cases, the composition may include mineral oils, silicone oils, and synthetic oils. Amounts of these materials may range from 0.1 to 50 wt%, and preferably, from 0.1 to 30 wt%, and most preferably, from 1 to 20 wt%, including all ranges subsumed therein.

Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile varieties. The term “volatile” as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, and preferably, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities of less than 5 centistokes at 25°C while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than 10 centistokes (measured with a Brookfield Viscometer, RV No. 3 spindle at 20 PRM, standardized to mineral oil and at 25°C).

Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as carrier material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (like dimethicone, including crosspolymers and elastomers) with viscosities of from 5 to 100,000 centistokes at 25°C.

An often-preferred silicone source is a cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol solution.

The leave-on composition of the invention may further comprise emollients. Examples of emollients that may be used in the composition include stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, din-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rape seed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate and mixtures thereof. Such emollients may preferably be present in amounts 0.1 to 30 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 25 wt%, even more preferably from 3 to 20 wt%, further more preferably from 5 to 15 wt% and still more preferably from 7 to 12 wt%.

Emulsifiers (or surfactants) may be present in leave-on compositions comprising the components of the present invention. Total concentration of the emulsifier, when used, may range from 0.1 to 30 wt%, and preferably, from 2 to 20 wt%, and most preferably, from 1 to 9 wt% by weight of the composition. The emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric components. Particularly preferred nonionic components are those with a C10 to C20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, nono- and di- C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic emulsifiers.

Preferred anionic emulsifiers include alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C8-C20 acyl isethionates, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, alkylethercarboxylates and combinations thereof.

Cationic emulsifiers that may be used include, for example, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Useful amphoteric emulsifiers include cocoamidopropyl betaine, C12-C20 trialkyl betaines, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium laurodiamphoacetate or a mixture thereof.

Other generally preferred emulsifiers include glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate, stearamide AMP, PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol as well as emulsifying/thickening additives like hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurates copolymer/squalene and mixtures thereof.

Wash-off

The composition of the first aspect may preferably in the form of a wash-off composition. Examples of such wash-off composition include a hand-wash composition, a body-wash composition and a shampoo composition.

By ‘wash-off’, it is preferably meant that the composition applied on to a surface e.g. skin, is removed from the surface preferably with water. In other words, the surface is rinsed-off with water and the composition so applied is removed. Typically, if the composition is formulated in the form of a wash-off composition, then the composition so applied is removed preferably within 5 minutes, more preferably within 3 minutes, even more preferably within 1 minute and further more preferably within 30 seconds e.g. 10 or 15 seconds, of it being applied on a surface.

If the composition is formulated in the form of a wash-off composition, e.g. a shampoo or wash composition, then the composition preferably comprises a surfactant. In such case, the composition preferably comprises surfactants in an amount from 3 to 80 wt%, more preferably from 5 to 75 wt%, even more preferably from 7 to 65 wt%, further more preferably form 10 to 60 wt%, still more preferably from 15 to 50 wt%, yet more preferably from 20 to 40 wt% surfactants and still further more preferably from 25 to 35 wt% surfactants. Based on the whether the wash-off composition is formulated in liquid format or solid format, amounts and types of surfactants may vary.

For example, if the wash-off composition is formulated as a solid wash-off composition e.g. a bar, then the composition may preferably comprise from 25 to 70 wt%, preferably from 30 to 65 wt%, preferably from 35 to 60 wt%, preferably from 40 to 55 wt% surfactant e.g. a fatty acid soap and/or from 3 to 25 wt% non-soap synthetic surfactant whereby the bars typically comprise less than 15 wt% water.

Alternatively, for example, if the wash-off composition is formulated as a liquid wash-off composition e.g. hand-wash or body-wash composition, then the composition comprises from 5 to 20 wt%, more preferably from 6 to 18 wt%, even more preferably from 7 to 15 wt%, further more preferably from 9 to 14 wt% and still more preferably from 10 to 12 wt% surfactant.

Preferably, surfactants present in such wash-off compositions may be selected from an anionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant and mixtures thereof.

A suitable anionic surfactant may be selected from a soap and/or a non-soap synthetic anionic surfactant.

Examples of soap include soaps that may be used as anionic surfactants in a wash-off composition include those formed after saponification of fatty acids having carbon atoms in the range from C8 to C20 with an aqueous alkali e.g. sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and ammonium hydroxide. Typical examples of soap include caprylate (C8), caprates (C10), laurate (C12), myristate (C14), palmitate (C16, stearate (C18) and oleate (C18:1) formed with an aqueous alkali mentioned earlier. Thus, preferred soaps are selected from potassium caprylate, potassium caprate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium oleate, sodium caprylate, sodium caprate, sodium laurate, sodium myristate, sodium palmitate sodium stearate, sodium oleate and mixtures thereof. Often, soaps may be present as a mixture of soaps formed from fatty acids of varying chain lengths.

Preferably, a non-soap synthetic anionic surfactants is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates (AES), alpha olefin sulfonates (AOS), isethnionates, taurates and mixtures thereof. Examples of alkyl sulfates that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myristyl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of AES that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactants include anionic surfactants of the general formula:

R1-(OR’)n-O-SO3- M+, wherein:

R1 is saturated or unsaturated C8-C16, preferably C12-C14 alkyl chain; preferably, R1 is a saturated C8-C16, more preferably a saturated C12-C14 alkyl chain;

R’ is ethylene; n is from 1 to 18; preferably from 1 to 15, more preferably from 1 to 10 and even more preferably from 1 to 5,

M+ is a suitable cation which provides charge neutrality, preferably sodium, calcium, potassium, or magnesium, ammonium, more preferably a sodium cation or ammonium.

Examples of AES that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactants in the composition include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), sodium myristyl ether sulfate and sodium palmityl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ALES) and mixtures thereof. Preferred AES is SLES having 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule. SLES having 1 to 2 ethylene oxide units per molecule is more preferred.

Examples of AOS that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium olefin sulfonate. Examples of isethionate that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include, sodium lauryl isethionate; sodium cocoyl isethionate. Examples of taurates that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium taurates such as sodium lauryl methyl taurate and sodium cocoyl methyl taurate.

Preferably, nonionic surfactants are selected from: fatty alcohol ethoxylates with saturated carbon chain and having HLB higher than

15.5 e.g. Brij® 35 (also known as Brij® L23), fatty alcohol ethoxylates with unsaturated carbon chain with HLB higher than 12, e.g. Brij® 97 and Brij® 99, polyoxyethylene sorbitan alkyl esters with saturated C12 to C16 carbon chain and having HLB higher than 12; e.g. Tween® 20, polyoxyethylene sorbitan alkyl esters with unsaturated C18 carbon chain and having HLB higher than 9; e.g. Tween® 80, Tween® 81 ; and Tween® 85; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, amphoteric surfactants are selected from betaine e.g. cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), sulfobetaine, cocoamphoacetate and mixtures thereof. More preferably, amophoteric surfactants are selected from betaine, sulfobetaine and mixtures thereof. Further more preferably, amphoteric surfactants selected is CAPB. Amphoteric surfactants provide foam boost and improve sensorial properties of the composition.

The compositions that are deodorants and/or antiperspirant products suitable to include the components of the present invention can be pump sprays, aerosol sprays, roll-ons, sticks, soft solids or gels made with conventional bases. When deodorant products, the same can comprise aluminium, nonaluminum active or both.

If the composition is formulated as a wash-off composition then it preferably comprises water in an amount from 50 to 95 wt%, more preferably from 60 to 90 wt%, even more preferably from 70 to 85 wt%, further more preferably from 75 to 80 wt% and still more preferably from 80 to 85 wt% water.

Preferably, the composition further comprises preservatives to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Examples of ingredients that may be used as preservatives in the composition include alkyl esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. More preferably, ingredients that may be used as preservative in the composition are sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, ethylhexylglycerin, benzyl alcohol, alkane diols and mixtures thereof. The alkane diols that are suitable for use as preservative are C6-C12 alkanes that are vicinally substituted with hydroxy groups. Illustrative examples include 1 ,2-octane diol (caprylyl glycol), 2,3-octane diol, 1 ,2-nonane diol, 1 ,2-decane diol, 1 ,2-hexane diol, 3,4-octane diol, mixtures thereof or the like where caprylyl glycol is typically the most preferred. When present in the composition, preservatives are added preferably in an amount 0.001 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt% and most preferably 0.02 to 2 wt%.

Preferably, the composition further comprises one or more skin brightening agents. These one or more skin brightening agents may be selected from niacinamide, vitamin B6, vitamin C and its derivaties, vitamin A and derivatives (retinol and retinol esters), vitamin E, resorcinol, phenyl ethyl resorcinol, substituted resorcinol e.g. 4-alkyl substituted resorcinol such as 4-ethyl resorcinol (ER), 4-butyl resorcinol (BR), 4-hexyl resorcinol (HR), glutathione precursors, galardin, adapalene, aloe extract, ammonium lactate, arbutin, azelaic acid, butyl hydroxy anisole, butyl hydroxy toluene, citrate esters, deoxyarbutin, 1 ,3-diphenyl propane derivatives,

2.5-dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, 2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1 ,3-dithiane, 2-(4- hydroxyphenyl)-1 ,3-dithiane, ellagic acid, gluco pyranosyl-1 -ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract, 4-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, 4-hydroxyanisole and its derivatives, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositol ascorbate, lactic acid, linoleic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid,

3.4.5-trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, acetylglucosamine, pitera extract, symwhite, calcium pantothenate (Melano-block), seppiwhite and mixtures thereof. Preferably, skin brightening agents that may be used in the composition are niacinamide, vitamin B6, 4-ethyl resorcinol (ER), 4-butyl resorcinol (BR), 4-hexyl resorcinol (HR), and mixtures thereof. Such one or more skin brightening agents may preferably be present in an amount from 0.1 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 7 wt% and even more preferably from 3 to 5 wt%.

Preferably, the composition further comprises a humectant selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol and mixtures thereof. More preferably, a humectant is selected from glycerol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 20 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 18 wt%, even more preferably from 3 to 15 wt%, further more preferably form 5 to 12 wt% and still more preferably 7 to 10 wt% of one or more humectants described above.

Preferably, the composition further comprises a polymer. The polymer acts as thickener in the composition and improves sensorial properties of the composition. The polymer is preferably selected from the following classes:

• acrylate I R- meth acrylate copolymer e.g. acrylates/ steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 22) and acrylates/ beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 28),

• acrylate I R-methacrylate crosspolymer e.g. acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 88),

• acrylates copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 33),

• acrylate/R-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer e.g. acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as PemulenTM TR-2),

• copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate with vinyl pyrrolidone (commercially available as Aristoflex® AVC), • copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate with vinyl pyrrolidone (commercially available as Aristoflex® AVS); and

• crosspolymer of acryloyldimethyltaurate with R-alkyl acrylate and methyacrylate e.g. Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as Aristoflex® HMB and Aristoflex® BLV); and mixtures thereof.

Alternatively, the composition may comprise cellulose based thickeners such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the polymer is selected from acrylate I R-methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises 0.1 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.5 to 4.5 wt%, even more preferably 1 to 4 wt%, further more preferably from 1.5 to 3.5 wt%, still more preferably from 2 to 3 wt% of these polymers.

The composition may further comprise a range of other optional ingredients that include antioxidants, binders, buffering agents, colorants, astringents, fragrance, opacifying agents, conditioners, exfoliating agents, skin soothing agents, and skin healing agents.

The step of application, step a., may be carried out simply by taking a suitable amount of the composition e.g. on hands and gently spreading it over the area of skin. The composition, if required, may also be applied using an applicator in which case, a user is expected to use the applicator so provided to carry out the step of applying the composition; and spread the composition using the applicator on the skin. As described hereinabove, skin includes skin on the face, feet, neck, chest, arms (including under arms), hands, legs, buttocks, back and scalp (including hair).

The step b., if carried out, is carried out the skin is rinsed off with water, i.e. the composition so applied in step, a, is removed from the skin surface. If carried out, step b. is carried out preferably within 5 minutes of carrying out step a. Alternatively, the step b., if carried out, may be carried out after 60 minutes, preferably after 45 minutes, preferably after 30 minutes, preferably after 15 minutes, preferably after 5 minutes of carrying out step a.

Preferably, the composition is applied on to the skin (the step a.) at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am, preferably from 6 pm to about 11 :30 pm, more preferably from 7 pm to about 11 :00 pm, even more preferably from 8 pm to about 10:30 pm, yet more preferably from about 9 pm to about 10:00 pm. Preferably, the method is non-therapeutic or cosmetic in nature.

In a third aspect, the present invention relates to a kit comprising (i) a packaged product containing the composition of the first aspect and (ii) instructions for use. Preferably, the composition may be packaged in suitable containers e.g. jars, bottles with or without dispensing pumps; and supplied with instructions for use.

It is found that when the composition was used as per the method of the present invention, lipid synthesis was found to be improved which in turn improves the barrier function of the skin.

The following Examples are provided to further illustrate an understanding of the invention. The Examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

Examples

The effect of the method of treating the skin as per the preset invention was studied as follows: A gene expression study was carried out where expression of genes ABCG1 (ATP Binding Cassette Subfamily G Member 1 ; Gene ID for ABCG1 : 9619; Database Accession Number: NM_016818) and ABCA12 (ATP-binding cassette sub-family A member 12; Gene ID for ABCA12: 26154; Database Accession Number: NM_173076), was studied as described below. Briefly, ABCG1 is reported to be responsible for transporting cholesterol whereas, ABCA12 is reported to be responsible for transporting glucosylceramide.

Moringa oil extracted from seeds of Moringa oleifera, was obtained from Naturex, France, commercially available under their reference number LA030075, a part of Givaudan.

Protocol for gene expression study:

The primary keratinocytes (from Lonza) were seeded into 12 well plates. After attaining 70 to 80% confluency, cells were synchronized with dexamethasone and post which differentiation was induced using high calcium media. Then cells were treated with and without actives in the morning and evening separately as shown in the tables below; and post 12 h of treatment, cells were harvested in RLT lysis buffer respectively. The harvested samples were then processed for RNA isolation, cDNA synthesis, and gene expression studies.

Total RNA isolation:

RNA was isolated as per the QIAGEN RNA ISOLATION (RNAeasy Mini kit) protocol. Cells were lysed and harvested in RLT lysis buffer and stored at minus 80°C until used for RNA isolation. cDNA synthesis:

The cDNA was synthesized as per the iScript cDNA synthesis kit from Bio-Rad. Briefly, 1 pg of total RNA was used for cDNA synthesis. The following mixture was prepared for one reaction and the total volume was made up to 20 pL.

Quantification of gene expression in primary keratinocytes:

For the quantitative analysis of the genes, RT-PCR was carried out using the SYBR Green master mix from Bio-Rad. The master mix with the forward and reverse primers and cDNA template were all brought to room temperature. The assay master mix was prepared on ice by adding all the components in a definite volume according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The PCR reaction was carried out in a Bio-Rad qPCR machine (CFX96). The fold change in gene expression was calculated with respect to the housekeeping gene (GAPDH) using the 2^AAACt method.

Table 1

Table 2

The data in the tables above show the synergistic effect of 12-HSA, a PPAR activator, taken in combination with Moringa Oil or Farnesol, on gene upregulation of ABCG1 and ABCA12. The results show that when the skin is treated according to the composition and the method of the present invention, it results in improved lipid synthesis that leads to improved barrier function.

It is to be understood that the experiments described above were conducted in an invitro assay to evaluate the technical effect. It is expected that the concentrations to be actually used to prepare a composition for topical use would be vastly different. The concentrations could be orders of magnitude higher due to the following reasons that affect the difference in concentration in the bulk as compared to that at the cellular level. The composition may be formulated as an emulsion or a gel with very many additional ingredients. The concentration of the desired actives in the oil phase and in the water phase, is expected to be very different. They may also have very different physical and hydrodynamic properties like partition coefficients, diffusional rates, convective transport rates, rheological properties etc. Therefore it is expected that the concentrations to be used when formulated as a composition would be very different from that at the cellular level.

Claims

Claims:

1. A personal care composition comprising: a. 0.05 to 8 wt% one or more activators of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor; and b. a skin care active selected from one or both of: i. 0.01 to 2 wt% oil extracted from seeds of a Moringa species and ii. 0.0001 to 5 wt% farnesol.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the one or more activators of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor is selected from petroselinic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, a hydroxystearic acid, ricinoleic acid or a mixture thereof.

3. The composition as claimed in claims 1 or 2 wherein the one or more activators of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor is selected from a hydroxystearic acid, preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the oil is extracted from seeds of at least one of Moringa oleifera, Moringa pterygosperma, Moringa peregrina, Moringa concanensis or Moringa drouhardii; preferably from the seeds of Moringa oleifera or Moringa pterygosperma.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the composition is a leave-on product in the form of a cream, a lotion, or a gel, preferably a cream.

6. The composition as claimed in claim 5 wherein the cream comprises from 3 to 25 wt% of an additional fatty acid and 0.1 to 10 wt% soap.

7. The composition as claimed in claim 5 or 6 comprising from 10 to 95 wt% water.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the composition is a wash-off product comprising 3 to 80 wt% of a surfactant.

9. A composition as claimed in claim 8 wherein the surfactant is selected from one or more of an anionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.

10. A composition as claimed in claims 8 or 9 comprising 50 to 95 wt% water.

11 . A method of providing improved barrier protection to skin comprising the steps: a. applying to the skin the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10; and b. optionally, rinsing-off the skin.

12. The method as claimed in claim 11 wherein, step a. of applying the composition to the skin, is carried out at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.

13. A kit comprising (i) a packaged product containing the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10 and (ii) instructions for use.