WO2025097290A1

WO2025097290A1 - Composition and method using the same

Info

Publication number: WO2025097290A1
Application number: PCT/CN2023/130078
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yu Liu; Qingsheng Tao
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-11-07
Filing date: 2023-11-07
Publication date: 2025-05-15
Anticipated expiration: 2026-05-07
Also published as: FR3154922B3; FR3154922A3

Abstract

A composition comprising the following components is provided: (i) at least one oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient; (ii) at least one solid lipid different from component (i); (iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i); and (iv) a combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant, wherein the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.3 to 1000, preferably from 0.35 to 500, more preferably from 0.4 to 100, most preferably from 0.5 to 50. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials is also provided, comprising applying said composition to the keratin materials.

Description

COMPOSITION AND METHOD USING THE SAME

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.

BACKGROUND ART

Skin acts as a natural barrier between internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, micro-organisms, and ultraviolet damage.

There are many products developed for delivering active ingredients to the skin.

Solid lipid nanocarriers (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) were used to deliver active ingredients, especially hydrophobic cosmetic active ingredients. Some cosmetic active ingredients such as ceramides are insoluble in water. Dissolving them directly into an oil may bring about greasy feeling. Thanks to solid lipid nanocarriers (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) , they can be readily introduced into water-based formulae, thereby obtaining homogeneous suspensions.

The structural uniqueness ofNLC brings about advantages, for example, it can lead to increased loading capacity of active ingredients and lower risk of active ingredients outflow.

However, some NLCs in the market have less regular and imperfect structure due to the incorporation of certain liquid lipid into solid lipid matrix, which results in compatibility issues when the NLC is introduced into cosmetic products, therefore, the products are not stable.

In addition, the typical methods for preparing NLC require high mechanical energy input, high cost and difficult to be achieved from the industrial level.

Thus, it is desired to develop new products comprising nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredients, which are stable and can be easily produced.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

One object of the present application is to provide products comprising nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredients, which are stable and can be easily produced.

The inventors have now discovered that above objects can be achieved by the present invention.

Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition comprising the following components:

(i) at least one oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient;

(ii) at least one solid lipid different from component (i) ;

(iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i) ; and

(iv) a combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant,

wherein the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.3 to 1000, preferably from 0.35 to 500, more preferably from 0.4 to 100, most preferably from 0.5 to 50.

In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture. Nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredients can be easily formed from the homogeneous mixture.

In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredients. The nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredients can be easily formed.

In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of suspension of nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredients in an aqueous phase.

The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for the skin.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "ranging from... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about" . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises the following components:

(i) at least one oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient;

(ii) at least one solid lipid different from component (i) ;

(iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i) ; and

Oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredients

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient.

As used herein, an oil soluble cometic active ingredient means a cosmetic active ingredient has a solublity in an oil, as measured at 25℃, of at least 1g/100g. An oil dispersable cosmetic active ingredient means a cosmetic active ingredient has a solublity in an oil, as measured at 80℃, of at least 1g/100g.

Preferably, the oil-soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient is selected from fragrance, antioxidants, UV fillers, chelating agents, and combinations thereof.

Examples of oil-soluble/dispersable antioxidants include, but not limited to, ceramide, retinol, ferulic acid, Beta-Carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate.

Examples of oil-soluble/dispersable UV filters include, but not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.

Examples of oil-soluble/dispersable chelating agents include, but not limited to sodium phytate and gluconate.

Advantageously, the oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient is selected from ceramide, retinol, ferulic acid, Beta-Carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, sodium phytate, gluconate and mixture thereof.

In some embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises ceramide.

Advantageously, the oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Solid lipids

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one solid lipid different from component (i) , i.e., the oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient.

As used herein, "solid lipid" means that the lipid is solid at room temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 X 10⁵Pa) . The melting point is above 25℃, preferably above 45℃.

Solid lipid can be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, mono-, di-or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the solid fatty acids comprise 12-24 carbons with one carboxyl group, preferably the solid fatty acid is selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the solid fatty alcohols comprise 12-24 carbons with one hydroxyl group, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the waxes are waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably the wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the mono-, di-or triglycerides is selected from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear, or branched fatty acid including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the mono-, di-or triglyceride is selected from mono-, di-or triglycerides of one or more of lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.

According to some preferred embodiments, the solid lipid is selected from hydrocarbon waxes, preferably selected from beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the solid lipid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Liquid lipids

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one liquid lipid different from component (i) , i.e., the oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient.

Preferably, the liquid lipid is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain hydroxy, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

As the hydrocarbon-based oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

More preferably, the liquid lipid is selected from:

-linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane;

-linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such asand squalane;

-short-chain esters containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate,

-synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,

-esters such as oils of formula R¹C (O) -O-R² in which R¹ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R² represents an, in particular branched, hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that R¹+R²≥10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂ to C₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters;

-fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.

Even more preferably, the liquid lipid is selected from linear C6-C14 alkanes, branched C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the liquid lipid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It has been found that the combination of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid can increase the loading capacity oil soluble/dispersable active ingredients.

For the purpose of the present invention, preferably, the weight ratio of the solid lipid to the liquid lipid is from 1 to 1000, preferably from2 to 500, preferably from 3 to 100, more preferably from 4 to 50.

Double-chain surfactants

According to the first aspect, composition of the present invention comprises at least one double-chain surfactant.

The double-chain surfactant is different from components (i) , (ii) and (iii) defined above.

Preferably, the double-chain surfactant is selected from double-chain nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the double-chain surfactant is selected from diesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the double-chain non-ionic surfactant is selected from:

diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units;

dialkyl sulfosuccinates, wherein the alkyl has 4 to 24 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions,

lecithins, and

mixtures thereof.

As examples of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, mention can be made of lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.

In particular, examples of diesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids include, but not limited to, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 distearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 dioleate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 distearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 dioleate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 distearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 dioleate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 distearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 dioleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 distearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 dioleate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 dicaprylate, PG7 dilaurate, PG7 dimyristate, PG7 distearate, PG7 diisostearate, PG7 dioleate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 dicaprylate, PG8 dilaurate, PG8 dimyristate, PG8 distearate, PG8 diisostearate, PG8 dioleate, PG9 dicaprate, PG9 dicaprylate, PG9 dilaurate, PG9 dimyristate, PG9 distearate, PG9 diisostearate, PG9 dioleate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 distearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of the di-alkyl sulfosuccinates include, but not limited to, diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dinonyl sodium sulfosuccinate, diisononyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, diheptyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dihexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dicapryl sodium sulfosuccinate, didecyl sodium sulfosuccinate, diundecyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dilauryl sodium sulfosuccinate, dicocoyl sodium sulfosuccinate, ditridecyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dipropylheptyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dicyclohexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, ammonium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dicapryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium didecyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diundecyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dicocoyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium ditridecyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, diethylhexyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dinonyl potassium sulfosuccinate, diisononyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dioctyl potassium sulfosuccinate, diheptyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dihexyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dicapryl potassium sulfosuccinate, didecyl potassium sulfosuccinate, diundecyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dilauryl potassium sulfosuccinate, dicocoyl potassium sulfosuccinate, ditridecyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dipropylheptyl potassium sulfosuccinate, and dicyclohexyl potassium sulfosuccinate.

Examples of lecithins include, but not limited to, phosphatidylcholine, and phosphatidylethanolamine.

Most preferably, the double-chain non-ionic surfactant is selected from PG10 dioleate, diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, phosphatidylcholine, and mixtures.

Advantageously, the double-chain surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Single-chain surfactants

According to the first aspect, composition of the present invention comprises at least one single-chain surfactant.

The single-chain surfactant is different from components (i) , (ii) and (iii) defined above.

Preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from single-chain nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from monoesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids, sucrose esters, alkyl glucoside, polysorbate esters, amino acid surfactants, tertiary ammonium salts (such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine) and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred examples of monoesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids, mention can be made of PG2 caprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 oleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 oleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 oleate, PG6 caprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 oleate, PG7 caprate, PG7 caprylate, PG7 laurate, PG7 myristate, PG7 stearate, PG7 isostearate, PG7 oleate, PG8 caprate, PG8 caprylate, PG8 laurate, PG8 myristate, PG8 stearate, PG8 isostearate, PG8 oleate, PG9 caprate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 myristate, PG9 stearate, PG9 isostearate, PG9 oleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate, and PG10 oleate.

Preferably, the anionic amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :

wherein:

Z represents a linear alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

X is hydrogen or methyl group,

n is 0 or 1,

Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH₃, -CH (CH₃) ₂, -CH₂CH (CH₃) ₂, -CH (CH₃) CH₂CH₃, -CH₂C₆H₅, -CH₂C₂H₄OH, -CH₂OH, -CH (OH) CH₃, - (CH₂) ₄NH₂, - (CH₂) ₃NHC (NH) NH₂, -CH₂C (O) O^-M⁺, - (CH₂) ₂C (O) OH, - (CH₂) ₂C (O) O^-M⁺, and

M is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (I) :

Z represents a linear C₈-C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl,

X is a hydrogen or methyl group,

n is 0,

Y is selected from hydrogen, - (CH₂) ₂C (O) OH, - (CH₂) ₂C (O) O^-M⁺, and

Examples of the amino acid surfactants are salt of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof.

More specifically, mentions can be made of the amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl methylβ-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methylβ-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methylβ-alaninate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

According to the present invention, the preferred amino acid surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, and a mixture thereof.

Even more preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from PG10 laurate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the single-chain non-ionic surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It has been found that the combination of the double-chain surfactant and the single-chain surfactant can facilitate self-emulsification of molten lipid, so nano-sized droplet can be formed spontaneously at high temperature.

In the composition of the present invention, the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.3 to 1000, preferably from 0.35 to 500, more preferably from 0.4 to 100, more preferably from 0.5 to 50, more preferably from 0.6 to 45, more preferably from 0.7 to 40, more preferably from 0.8 to 35, more preferably from 0.9 to 30, even more preferably from 1 to 25, most preferably from 1 to 20.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the present invention may comprise a continuous aqueous phase.

Said aqueous phase comprises water.

Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 99 wt. %, preferably from 60 wt. %to 90 wt. %, and more preferably from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient mentioned above.

It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance preserving agents and bactericides, thickeners, pH regulators, fillers and mixtures thereof.

The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient;

(ii) from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one solid lipid selected from beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof;

(iii) from 0.3 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one liquid lipid selected from linear C6-C14 alkanes, branched C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; and

(iv) from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %of at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant selected from diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units; and from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %of at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures threof,

wherein the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.5 to 50, preferably from 0.6 to 45, more preferably from 0.7 to 40, more preferably from 0.8 to 35, more preferably from 0.9 to 30, even more preferably from 1 to 25,most preferably from 1 to 20.

Galenic form and method

In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture, from which nanostructured lipid carriers can be easily formed by spontaneous emulsification (i.e., phase inversion composition) without involving vigorous mechanical energy input, for example high-speed and high-pressure homogenization, sonication, or membrane emulsification.

In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredients.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention is translucent or semi-translucent.

When the particle size of nanoparticle is from 110 to 150 nm, then the composition is semi-translucent; and when the particle size of nanoparticle is less than 110 nm, then the composition is translucent. When the particle size of nanoparticle is greater than 500 nm., then the composition is creamy.

The composition of the present invention can be in the form of lotion, cream, serum, etc.

The composition of the present invention can be used as shampoos, hair coloring products, and hair conditions, skincare products, etc.

Thus, the composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials.

According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.

EXAMPLES

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-10

Compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1-10 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-10 in the form of suspension were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2-4. The amount of each component is given in%by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

Table 2

Polyglyceryl dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol comprises 99.95 wt. %of polyglyceryl dioleate-10 and 0.05 wt. %tocopherol.

Compositions of invention examples 1-4 are compositions according to the present invention.

Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant.

Composition of comparative example 3 comprises at least one double-chain surfactant, at least one single-chain surfactant, at least one solid lipid and at least one liquid lipid, with the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid being 0.2.

Table 3

Compositions of invention examples 5-8 are compositions according to the present invention.

Compositions of comparative examples 4 and 5 do not comprise at least one liquid lipid.

Composition of comparative example 6 does not comprise at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant.

Composition of comparative example 7 does not comprise at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

Table 4

Compositions of invention examples 9 and 10 are compositions according to the present invention.

Composition of comparative example 8 does not comprise at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant.

Composition of comparative example 9 does not comprise at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

Composition of comparative example 10 does not comprise at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant and at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

All compositions are in the form of suspension.

Preparation process:

The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example:

1) mixing solid lipids (Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax) , liquid lipid (Squalane) , surfactants (Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate) and active ingredient (ceramide NP) at a temperature at 85 ℃ until a homogeneous oil phase was obtained;

2) heating water to a temperature at 85 ℃;

3) adding the oil phase obtained in step 1) into water with stirring for about 10 minutes to obtain a suspension; and

4) cooling the obtained suspension rapidly to room temperature with slow stirring.

Evaluation

Each suspension of invention examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-10 was evaluated as follows.

Stability and particle size

The samples were maintained at 4℃, room temperature (25℃) , and 45℃ for 2 months, respectively.

The sizes of particles in samples were characterized using a Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS) equipment. Each sample was tested in triplicate. The particle sizes of fresh samples and aged samples were measured to monitor the stability.

The main experimental parameters set for the DLS experiments were listed in Table 5.

Table 5

Tables 6-8 show effective diameter and polydispersity index (PDI) of each suspension of invention examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-10 after 2 months storage.

Table 6

Table 7

Table 8

Effective diameter: average diameter.

The term "unmeasurable" means samples are too turbid/cloudy to be measured due to too many large particles.

The smaller the effective diameter, the higher transparency the suspension has. When the effective diameter is less than 110 nm, the appearance of the suspension is translusent. When the effective diameter is between 110 nm and 500 nm, the appearance of the suspension is semi-translusent. When the effective diameter is greater than 500 nm, the appearance of the suspension is creamy.

Polydispersity index (PDI) is an index reflecting the degree of polydispersity. The smaller the polydispersity index (PDI) , the better for stability.

If the effective diameter of a sample stored for a time period is smaller than 500 nm without formation of large aggregates on the vessel wall, then the sample was regarded as ‘stable’ , otherwise, the sample was regarded as "unstable" .

The samples were then checked by polarized microscopy. For samples remaining translucent or semi-translucent appearance without the formation of visible, large aggregates on the vessel wall, if some micron-sized crystals were observed under polarized microscopy, then they were considered as "stable but with micron-sized crystals" .

Tables 9-11 show the stablity of each suspension of invention examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-10 after 2 months storage.

Table 9

Table 10

Table 11

It can be seen from Tables 6-11 that suspension acording to invention examples 1-10 have translucent or semi-transluent appearance and is stable for at least 2 months.

Claims

A composition comprising the following components:

(i) at least one oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient;

(ii) at least one solid lipid different from component (i) ;

(iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i) ; and

(iv) a combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant,

wherein the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.3 to 1000, preferably from 0.35 to 500, more preferably from 0.4 to 100, most preferably from 0.5 to 50.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil-soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient is selected from fragrance, antioxidants, UV fillers, chelating agents, and combinations thereof; preferably selected from selected from ceramide, retinol, ferulic acid, Beta-Carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, sodium phytate, gluconate and mixture thereof; more preferbably is ceramide.
Composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the solid lipid is selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, mono-, di-or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to claim 4, wherein

the solid fatty acids comprise 12-24 carbons with one carboxyl group, preferably the solid fatty acid is selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof;

the solid fatty alcohols comprise 12-24 carbons with one hydroxyl group, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

the waxes are waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably the wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof;

the mono-, di-or triglycerides is selected from mono-, di-or triglycerides of one or moer saturated or unsaturated, linear, or branched fatty acids including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the mono-, di-or triglyceride is selected from mono-, di-or triglycerides of one or more of lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
Composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the solid lipid is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the liquid lipid is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils; preferably selected from linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes, liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, short-chain esters containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, esters oils of formula R¹C (O) -O-R² in which R¹ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R² represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that R¹+R²≥10, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, more referably selected from linear C6-C14 alkanes, branched C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
Composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the liquid lipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the weight ratio of the solid lipid to the liquid lipid is from 1 to 1000, preferably from 2 to 500, preferably from 3 to 100, more preferably from 4 to 50.
Composition of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the double-chain surfactant is selected from double-chain nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from diesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, wherein the alkyl has 4 to 24 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions, lecithins, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from PG10 dioleate, diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, phosphatidylcholine, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein the double-chain surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 11, wherein the single-chain surfactant is selected from single-chain nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from monoesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids, sucrose esters, alkyl glucoside, polysorbate esters, amino acid surfactants, tertiary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from PG2 caprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 oleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 oleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 oleate, PG6 caprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 oleate, PG7 caprate, PG7 caprylate, PG7 laurate, PG7 myristate, PG7 stearate, PG7 isostearate, PG7 oleate, PG8 caprate, PG8 caprylate, PG8 laurate, PG8 myristate, PG8 stearate, PG8 isostearate, PG8 oleate, PG9 caprate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 myristate, PG9 stearate, PG9 isostearate, PG9 oleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 oleate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, wherein the single-chain surfactant is present an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one oil soluble/dispersable cosmetic active ingredient;

(ii) from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one solid lipid selected from beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof;

(iii) from 0.3 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one liquid lipid selected from linear C6-C14 alkanes, branched C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; and

(iv) from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %of at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant selected from diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units; and from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %of at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures threof,

wherein the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.5 to 50, preferably from 0.6 to 45, more preferably from 0.7 to 40, more preferably from 0.8 to 35, more preferably from 0.9 to 30, even more preferably from 1 to 25, most preferably from 1 to 20.
A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1 to 14 to the keratin materials.