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WO2025095141A1 - Cosmetic method for applying sunscreen composition - Google Patents

Cosmetic method for applying sunscreen composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2025095141A1
WO2025095141A1 PCT/JP2024/080133 JP2024080133W WO2025095141A1 WO 2025095141 A1 WO2025095141 A1 WO 2025095141A1 JP 2024080133 W JP2024080133 W JP 2024080133W WO 2025095141 A1 WO2025095141 A1 WO 2025095141A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
sunscreen composition
face
cosmetic method
sunscreen
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/JP2024/080133
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Emilie MABUCHI
Shima Yamamoto
Kumiko UDODAIRA
Yuanyuan Sun
Anne Prunel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR2401678A external-priority patent/FR3159318A3/en
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2025095141A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025095141A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method or process for applying a sunscreen composition.
  • sunscreen products are used to protect the skin, in particular the skin of a face, from UV rays which may, in particular, be irradiated from the sun.
  • sunscreen products may not be able to effectively use them if they are not applied appropriately.
  • the actual protection ability of the sunscreen products may depend on how the sunscreen products are used.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition which provide effective protection from UV rays.
  • a cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition onto a face comprising the steps of:
  • the amount of the sunscreen composition provided in step (1) may be more than 0.3 g, preferably 0.4 g or more, and more preferably 0.5 g or more, and less than 0.6 g.
  • the sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand, as a line to form a spiral shape, to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition;
  • the sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand, as a line to form a spiral shape winding two or three times, to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition.
  • the sunscreen composition may be placed on at least four points, preferably five points of the face, wherein the at least four points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, the center of the nose, and the center of the chin.
  • the pressure may be applied in step (3) with at least three curved fingers
  • the sunscreen composition may also be applied with at least one applicator.
  • the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise a step of spreading the sunscreen composition on the nose and eyelids of the face, wherein at least one finger is used.
  • a pressure of 1.5 N or less is applied for spreading the sunscreen composition on the nose and eyelids of the face.
  • the sunscreen composition may also be applied on the nose and eyelids of the face with at least one applicator.
  • Step (4) may be performed with at least one device.
  • the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise a step (5) pressing the face with hands.
  • step (5) at least the cheeks of the face may be pressed simultaneously.
  • the sunscreen composition used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention be in the form of a cream.
  • the sunscreen composition used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one UV filter.
  • the sunscreen composition used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise:
  • the sunscreen composition used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may furthermore comprise (d) at least one surfactant and/or (e) at least one thickener.
  • Figure 1 shows an example of a spiral shape which may be formed during step (1) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention.
  • Figure 2 shows an example of gestures in steps (2) to (5) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention.
  • one aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition onto a face, comprising the steps of:
  • the cosmetic method according to the present invention can provide effective protection from UV rays, by forming a homogeneous or even film with a sufficient thickness of a sunscreen composition on a face.
  • the cosmetic method according to the present invention can also reduce unprotected skin area on the face.
  • the present invention can provide a clear guideline for, preferably how to obtain, a sufficient amount of a sunscreen composition, and a clear gesture to improve homogeneity or evenness of a film of a sunscreen composition on the face.
  • the cosmetic method, or cosmetic process, according to the present invention for applying a sunscreen composition onto a face comprises the steps of:
  • the cosmetic method according to the present invention may be characterized by a combination of an appropriate amount of a sunscreen composition and an appropriate application protocol defined by specific gesture pressure and gesture pattern.
  • Step (1) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention provides a sunscreen composition in an amount of 0.3 g or more. It may be preferable that the amount of a sunscreen composition be 0.4 g or more, and more preferably 0.5 g or more. An amount of 0.3 g or more of a sunscreen composition can provide a cosmetic film with a sufficient thickness of the sunscreen composition. There is no upper limit for the amount of a sunscreen composition to be provided in step (1) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention. However, it may be preferable that the amount of a sunscreen composition be 0.6 g or less.
  • the amount of the sunscreen composition provided in step (1) is more than 0.3 g, more preferably 0.4 g or more, and even more preferably 0.5 g or more, and less than 0.6 g.
  • the sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand.
  • a sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand, as a line to form a spiral shape, in order to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition.
  • a sunscreen composition may be filled in a container, such as a tube, with a nozzle, and the sunscreen composition may be discharged from the nozzle, with pressing and moving the container in a spiral way starting from the center to peripheral of the spiral, as a line with leaving little or no space between the lines.
  • the width of the line should be constant by controlling, for example, the pressure to be applied to the container, the speed of moving the container, and the like.
  • a sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand, as a line to form a spiral shape winding two or three times, in order to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition.
  • the diameter of the spiral shape may be from 1 cm to 2 cm, such as 1.5 cm.
  • Fig. 1 shows an example of a spiral shape which may be formed during step (1).
  • a line of a sunscreen composition starts from the center of the spiral shape and is wound three times.
  • a little space is present between the lines to show the lines separately.
  • Step (2) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention places the sunscreen composition provided by step (1) on at least three points on the face of a user of the sunscreen composition with at least one finger, wherein the at least three points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin.
  • a user can pick up a part of a sunscreen composition provided, for example, on the back or palm of a hand, and place it on the at least three points on the face of the user.
  • the sunscreen composition By placing the sunscreen composition on the area on the cheeks close to the nose, the sunscreen composition can be spread more evenly over the face by the cosmetic method according to the present invention.
  • the sunscreen composition be placed on at least four points, on the face, wherein the at least four points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, the center of the nose, and the center of the chin.
  • the at least four points may comprise the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin.
  • the sunscreen composition be placed on at least five points on the face, wherein the at least five points may comprise the center of the forehead, the cheeks, the center of the nose, and the center of the chin.
  • step (2) it becomes easy to spread the sunscreen composition over the face.
  • Step (3) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention spreads the sunscreen composition after step (2) from the center to peripheral of the face with at least three fingers, applying a pressure of 1.5 N or less, preferably around 1 N.
  • the pressure be 0.2 N or more, and more preferably 0.3 N or more.
  • the pressure when applying can be measured by, for example, a HAPTIC Force Plate (TF- 2020, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.), or a HapLog system (Haptic skill logger, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.) in which a sensor to measure pressure can be attached to the tip of a finger.
  • a HAPTIC Force Plate TF- 2020, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.
  • a HapLog system HapLog system
  • the sunscreen composition can be applied mainly onto relatively 2-dimensional part of the face, such as forehead and cheeks.
  • the sunscreen composition can be applied evenly on the face.
  • the light pressure may be simulated by the pressure felt when touching sands without moving the surface of the sands.
  • the pressure is applied in step (3) with at least three curved fingers, more preferably along the profile of the face.
  • the spread be performed with the aid of at least one applicator. Any tool for spreading the sunscreen composition may be used.
  • the sunscreen composition is spread on the nose and eyelids of the face with at least one finger, preferably applying the same pressure.
  • the pressure when spreading the sunscreen composition on the nose and eyelids of the face, is preferably 1.5 N or less, and more preferably around 1 N. It may be preferable that the pressure be 0.2 N or more, and more preferably 0.3 N or more.
  • the pressure when applying can be measured by, for example, a HAPTIC Force Plate (TF- 2020, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.) in which a sensor to measure pressure can be attached to the tip of a finger.
  • the sunscreen composition can be applied onto relatively 3-dimensional part of the face, i.e., nose and eyelids.
  • the sunscreen composition can be applied evenly on the face.
  • the sunscreen composition be spread from the center to peripheral of the face.
  • the spread be performed with the aid of at least one applicator. Any tool for spreading the sunscreen composition may be used.
  • Step (4) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention taps the face with at least three fingers to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition.
  • the cosmetic film of the sunscreen composition over the face can easily be homogeneous or even.
  • a single finger may be used for tapping.
  • the manner and amount of tapping is not limited. It is preferable that the tapping be performed gently and continuously.
  • Step (4) may be performed with at least one device.
  • the type of the device and how to use the device are not limited.
  • an applicator may be used. Any tool to assist tapping may be used.
  • the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise a step (5) pressing the face with hands, preferably with the palms of the hands.
  • step (5) The manner and number of pressings in step (5) is not limited. It is preferable that the pressing be performed several times in step (5).
  • the cosmetic film of the sunscreen composition can be adhered well to the face.
  • step (5) it is preferable that at least the forehead and cheeks of the face be pressed in step (5). It may be preferable that at least the cheeks of the face be pressed simultaneously in step (5).
  • a mirror may be used to check or confirm the evenness of a cosmetic film of the sunscreen composition.
  • a feeling from touching the face may also be used to check or conform the evenness of the cosmetic film on the face.
  • Fig. 2 shows an example of gestures in the steps (2) to (5) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention.
  • 0.3 g or more of a sunscreen composition may be taken out from a container thereof, such as a tube, with a nozzle, by being discharged from the nozzle as a line to form a spiral shape two or three times, as shown in in Fig. 1, on hand.
  • a sunscreen composition is placed with at least one finger at five points of the face, i.e., the center of the forehead, the cheeks (on the areas on the cheeks close to the nose), the center of the nose, and the center of the chin.
  • the sunscreen composition on the five points is spread from the center to peripheral of the face (cf. the upper enlarged part) with at least three fingers (cf. the left enlarged part). On the nose and eyelids, at least one finger is used to spread the sunscreen composition.
  • the spread can be performed gently with the at least three fingers. During the spread, the pressure applied onto the face is kept 1.5 N or less. If a device to measure the pressure is not available, it is preferable that the pressure be controlled such that the pressure would not move the surface of sand if the pressure were to be applied by touching onto the surface of sand.
  • step (4) shown in Fig. 2 tapping is performed to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition. It is preferable to not wipe or slide along the face. On the nose and eyelids, at least one finger is used to tap. As a result of step (4), a homogeneous or even film of the sunscreen composition can be formed on the face.
  • step (5) shown in Fig. 2 pressing is performed to adhere the film of the sunscreen composition onto the face. It is preferable that the pressing be performed several times. If necessary, a mirror may be used to check or conform the evenness of the film on the face. A feeling from touching the face may also be used to check or conform the evenness of the film on the face.
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one UV filter.
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise:
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one surfactant and/or (e) at least one thickener.
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one UV filter; (b) at least one fatty material; and (c) at least one solvent, the sunscreen composition further comprise (d) at least one surfactant and/or (e) at least one thickener.
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one UV filter. Two or more different types of UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of UV filter or a combination of different types of UV filters may be used.
  • the (a) UV filter can be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the (a) UV filter be selected from organic UV filters.
  • the amount of the (a) UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a) UV filter may be selected from inorganic UV filters. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV- B region.
  • the inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the inorganic UV filter is preferably insoluble in solvents such as water and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
  • the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle such that the mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from 1 nm to 50 pm, preferably 5 nm to 500 nm, and more preferably 10 nm to 200 nm.
  • the mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic mean diameter.
  • the inorganic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
  • the inorganic UV filter is selected from pigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed of metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se.
  • the inorganic UV filter is selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and more preferably titanium oxide.
  • the inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated.
  • the inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating.
  • the coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds.
  • the coating includes at least one organic UV filter.
  • a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl) Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) marketed as “TINOSORB M” by BASF may be preferable.
  • the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
  • silanes also encompasses silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
  • the silicones used for the coating(s) can preferably be selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. More preferably still, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
  • the inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures.
  • the coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, and/or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
  • the coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the product “Sunveil” from Ikeda, and “Sunsil TIN 50” from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product “Sunveil F” from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide, and “Mirasun TiW 60” from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)” from Ishihara, and “UVT 14/4” from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01” from Tayca, the products “Solaveil CT-10 W”
  • titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “T 805” by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a poly dimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “70250 Cardre UF TiOiSia” by Cardre, and anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic” by Color Techniques.
  • coated TiCh can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter:
  • Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh such as the product “MT- 100 TV” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
  • Dimethicone and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh, such as the product “SA-TTO-S4” from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
  • Silica (and) TiCh such as the product “MT-100 WP” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
  • Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh such as the product “MT- Y02” and “MT-Y-110 M3S” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh, such as the product “SA-TTO-S3” from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
  • Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) TiCh such as the product “UV TITAN Ml 70” from Sachtleben, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
  • Silica and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) TiCfi, such as the product “MT- 100 AQ” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm.
  • TiCh coated with at least one organic UV filter is more preferable.
  • Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh such as the product “HXMT-100ZA” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks “Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B”, by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark “UFTR”, by Tomen under the trademark “ITS” and by Tioxide under the trademark “Tioveil AQ”.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark “Z-cote” by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark “Nanox” by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark “Oxide Zinc CS-5” by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the trademark “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “NFD Ultrafme ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with phosphate of perfluoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopen
  • the uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the trademark “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone-Poulenc.
  • the uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)”, “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ”, and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)”, or by Mitsubishi under the trademark “TY-220”.
  • the coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345”, and “Nanogard FE 45 BL”, or by BASF under the trademark “Oxyde de fer transparent”.
  • Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable, because the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced.
  • the coating(s) may help uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the amount of the inorganic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the inorganic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the inorganic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a) UV filter may be selected from organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the organic UV filter can be hydrophobic or water- insoluble.
  • the organic UV filter can function as an oily ingredient.
  • the organic UV filter can form discontinuous or inner phases of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition according to the present invention is in the form of, for example, an O/W emulsion.
  • the organic UV filter may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.
  • the organic UV filter may be lipophilic or oil-soluble.
  • the organic UV filter may be solid or liquid.
  • solid and liquid mean a substance with no fluidity and a substance with fluidity, respectively, at 25 °C under 1 atm.
  • the organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; p,P-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • anthranilic compounds dibenzoylmethane compounds
  • cinnamic compounds include salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds
  • Anthranilic compounds Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmarm and Reimer.
  • Dibenzoylmethane compounds Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark “Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • Cinnamic compounds ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxy cinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate .
  • - Salicylic compounds Homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), marketed under the trademark “Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • benzylidenecamphor derivatives 3 -benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.
  • Benzophenone- 1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark “Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone- 3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40” by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone- 8, marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy be
  • Octocrylene marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539” by BASF
  • Etocrylene marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35” by BASF.
  • Triazine compounds Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the trademark « UVINUL T150 » by BASF.
  • Benzotriazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H- benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.
  • Benzalmalonate compounds Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX” by Hoffmann-LaRoche.
  • Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives.
  • - Bis-benzoazolyl compounds The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
  • - Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
  • Drometrizole trisiloxane marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or “Mexoryl XL” by L’Oreal, as represented below.
  • Benzoxazole compounds 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6- (2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the trademark Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.
  • Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene The dimers described in DE-19855649.
  • the organic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, benzophenone- 3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4- diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,l'-(l,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4- (diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl] -methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-
  • the organic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the organic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the organic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the organic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (F atty Material)
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (b) at least one fatty material. Two or more fatty materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty material or a combination of different types of fatty materials may be used.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty material.
  • Two or more different types of (b) fatty materials may be used in combination.
  • a single type of (b) fatty material or a combination of different types of (b) fatty materials may be used.
  • fatty material means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferentially 0.1%).
  • the fatty material may be in the form of a liquid or a solid.
  • “liquid” and “solid” mean that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) or solid, respectively, at ambient temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 Pa). It is preferable that the fatty material comprise at least one fatty material in the form of a paste or a solid, preferably in the form of a solid, at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty material may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic glycerides, esters of fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons. These fatty materials may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the fatty material is selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, synthetic glycerides, fatty esters other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils, and aliphatic hydrocarbons. More preferably, the (b) fatty material is selected from fatty alcohols, aliphatic hydrocarbons, preferably mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • aliphatic hydrocarbons examples include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • aliphatic hydrocarbons mention may also be made of linear or branched, or possibly cyclic Ce-Cie lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and C13-C14 isoparaffin.
  • caprylic/capric acid triglycerides for instance those sold by the company, Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company, Dynamit Nobel.
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol which are advantageously different from the animal or plant oils as well as the synthetic glycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate;
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty esters, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters may be selected, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters.
  • the (b) fatty material may be selected from fatty alcohols, and two or more fatty alcohols may be used.
  • fatty alcohol here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohol, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • C12-C22 fatty alcohols for example, are used. Mention may be made among these of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as myristyl alcohol can be used as a solid fatty material.
  • isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty material.
  • the (b) fatty material may be selected from waxes.
  • “wax” means that the fatty material is substantially in the form of a solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a melting point generally of 35 °C or more.
  • waxy fatty material waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combinations thereof.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one solvent. Two or more solvents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of solvent or a combination of different types of solvents may be used.
  • the (c) solvent may be selected from water, monovalent alcohols, polyvalent alcohols and mixtures thereof.
  • monovalent alcohol here means an alcohol having one hydroxy group.
  • monovalent alcohol include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol.
  • polyvalent alcohol or polyol here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof.
  • the derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
  • the monovalent or polyvalent alcohols used in the present invention are liquid at ambient temperature such as 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
  • the polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
  • the polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol.
  • the polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
  • the polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, C6-C24 polyethyleneglycol, 1,3 -propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the polyol be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (c) solvent(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) solvent(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) solvent(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.
  • the (d) surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants.
  • the amount of the (d) surfactant(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) surfactant(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) surfactant(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one thickener. Two or more thickeners may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of thickener or a combination of different types of thickeners may be used.
  • the (e) thickener or thickening agent may be selected from organic and inorganic thickeners.
  • the organic thickeners may be chosen from at least one of:
  • nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers;
  • association thickener means an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
  • associative thickeners that may be used are associative polymers chosen from:
  • anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit;
  • (cc) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit;
  • amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit, wherein the fatty chain contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the (aa) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit may, for example, be chosen from:
  • celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain examples that may be mentioned include: hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups, and in which the alkyl groups are, for example, C8-C22, such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS(Ci-6 alkyls) sold by the company Aquaion, and the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel, and celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol.
  • alkyl groups are, for example, C8-C22, such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS(Ci-6 alkyls) sold by the company Aquaion, and the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol
  • hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products Miracare XC95-3 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl groups, for instance the products Elfacos T 210 and Elfacos T 212 sold by the company Akzo or the products Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers examples that may be mentioned include: the products Antaron V216 and Ganex V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., and the products Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.R
  • copolymers of Ci-Ce alkyl acrylates or methacrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208.
  • copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates or methacrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as a polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
  • the (bb) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit may, for example, be chosen from those comprising at least one fattychain allyl ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit comprising an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomeric unit, for example, a vinylcarboxylic acid unit and further, for example, be chosen from units derived from acrylic acids, methacrylic acids, and mixtures thereof, wherein the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:
  • CH2 C(Ri)CH 2 OBnR (I) in which Ri is chosen from H and CH3, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is chosen from zero and integers ranging from 1 to 100, R is chosen from hydrocarbon-based radicals chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, and cycloalkyl radicals, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and further, for example, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even further, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • a unit of formula (I) is, for example, a unit in which Ri can be H, n can be equal to 10, and R can be a stearyl (Cis) radical.
  • Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479 B2.
  • anionic amphiphilic polymers are, for example, polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (I), and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • polymers examples include crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (Steareth-10), such as those sold by the company Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80 and Salcare SC 90, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, and of steareth- 10 allyl ether (40/50/10).
  • EO polyethylene glycol
  • Salcare SC 80 and Salcare SC 90 which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, and of steareth- 10 allyl ether (40/50/10).
  • the anionic amphiphilic polymers may further be chosen, for example, from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of a type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.
  • the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to, for example, the monomer of formula (II) below: in which R 1 is chosen from H, CH3, and C2H5, i.e., acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and ethacrylic acid units.
  • the hydrophobic unit of a type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to, for example, the monomer of formula (III) below: in which R 1 is chosen from H, CH3, and C2H5 (i.e., acrylate, methacrylate, and ethacrylate units) and is, for example, chosen from, for example, H (acrylate units) and CH3 (methacrylate units), and R 2 is chosen from C10-C30 alkyl radicals, for example, C12-C22 alkyl radicals.
  • R 1 is chosen from H, CH3, and C2H5 (i.e., acrylate, methacrylate, and ethacrylate units) and is, for example, chosen from, for example, H (acrylate units) and CH3 (methacrylate units)
  • R 2 is chosen from C10-C30 alkyl radicals, for example, C12-C22 alkyl radicals.
  • Examples of (Cio-C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
  • these thickening polymers are crosslinked.
  • Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are disclosed and prepared, for example, according to U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
  • anionic amphiphilic polymers that can be used may further be chosen from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, allyl ether of sucrose, allyl ether of pentaerythritol, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • copolymers of this type of those composed of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer or else of those composed of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above.
  • acrylate/ C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/ C10- C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen® TRI, Pemulen® TR2, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer, Carbopol® 1382 and Carbopol® EDT 2020.
  • anionic amphiphilic fatty-chain polymers mention may also be made, for example, of the ethoxylated copolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/alkyl dimethyl-meta- isopropenylbenzylisocyanate sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.
  • the (cc) cationic amphiphilic polymers used are, for example, chosen from quatemized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates comprising amino side groups.
  • the quatemized cellulose derivatives are, for example, chosen from quatemized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and quatemized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • Quatemized and non-quatemized polyacrylates comprising amino side groups have, for example, hydrophobic groups, such as Steareth 20 (polyoxy-ethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol) and (Cio-C3o)alkyl PEG-20 itaconate.
  • alkyl radicals borne by the above quatemized celluloses and hydroxyethylcelluloses for example, contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aryl radicals are chosen from phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, and anthryl groups.
  • quatemized alkylhydroxyethyl-celluloses comprising Cg-Cso fatty chains are the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl), and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol, and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl), and Crodacel QS (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
  • polyacrylates comprising amino side chains are the polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 and Structure Plus from the company National Starch.
  • amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit
  • the associative thickeners in the compositions can have, for example, in solution or in dispersion at a concentration of 1% active material in water, a viscosity, measured using a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer at 25 °C, of greater than 0.1 ps and further, for example, of greater than 0.2 cp, at a shear rate of 200 s' 1 .
  • crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers that may be mentioned are those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series. Mention may be made of carbomer, which is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Lubrizol or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A.
  • carbomer which is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Lubrizol or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthal
  • the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of Ci-Ce alkyl acrylate can be chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion comprising 38% active material sold, for example, under the name Viscoatex 538C by the company Coatex, and crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion comprising 28% active material sold under the name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm & Haas.
  • Crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate include an aqueous dispersion comprising 30% active material sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by the company NOVEON.
  • nonionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type
  • At least one water-soluble or water-dispersible, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymer comprising, at least, acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer.
  • AMPS acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • the AMPS (co)polymer may be preferably totally neutralized or virtually totally neutralized, i.e., at least 90% neutralized.
  • the AMPS (co)polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
  • AMPS (co)polymers examples include: acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers, such as the copolymer in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide/Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffm/Laureth-7) or the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the trademark Simulgel 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/P- oly sorbate- 80) by SEPPIC; copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AV C by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/V- P Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; copolymers of AMPS and of
  • the AMPS (co)polymer be acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
  • Ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned include the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst.
  • Copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide include the product sold under the name Bozepol C Wunsch or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst (which are described and prepared in documents FR-2 416 723, U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053, and U.S. Pat. No. 2,923,692).
  • the polysaccharides are, for example, chosen from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, com, or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow peas, and tubers, for instance potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses, and derivatives thereof (e.g., methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids, and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans,
  • polysaccharides that may be used are chosen from those described, for example, in “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and Volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature” by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc., the content of these three publications being entirely incorporated herein by reference.
  • starches for example, starches, guar gums, celluloses, and derivatives thereof can be used.
  • starches that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising base units which are anhydroglucose units.
  • base units which are anhydroglucose units.
  • amylose linear polymer
  • amylopectin branched polymer
  • the relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary according to the botanical origin of the starches.
  • the molecules of starches used may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin.
  • the starches can be, for example, chosen from maize, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches.
  • Starches generally exist in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, whose elementary particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.
  • the starches may be optionally Ci-Ce hydroxyalkylated or Ci-Ce acylated (such as acetylated).
  • the starches may have also undergone heat treatments.
  • Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product provided under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropylated cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE, may also be used.
  • the guar gums can be modified or unmodified.
  • the unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Meyhall.
  • modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxy lkylation which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.
  • nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293, and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie (Meyhall) or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aquaion.
  • celluloses and cellulose derivatives such as cellulose modified with hydroxylalkyl groups
  • cellulose modified with hydroxylalkyl groups are, for example, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcelluloses, as well as hydrophobicized hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.
  • the fatty alcohols used as thickeners do not contain polyoxyalkylenated groups and are, for example, chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol.
  • the (e) thickener may be selected from polymeric thickeners, preferably associative polymeric thickeners, and more preferably anionic associative polymeric thickeners.
  • the (e) thickener may be acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (e) thickener(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (e) thickener(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (e) thickener(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the sunscreen composition may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
  • the optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers other than the (e) thickener; plant extracts; acidifying agents; basifying agents; coloring agent such as pigments and dyes; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the sunscreen composition may be prepared by mixing, for example, the ingredient(s) as explained above, and any other optional or additional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
  • the method and means to mix the above ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above ingredients to prepare the sunscreen composition.
  • the sunscreen composition may be in the O/W type or the W/O type, preferably in the O/W type.
  • the sunscreen composition be in the form of a cream.
  • the minimum SPF value for daily protection on face is SPF15.
  • users of sunscreen products tend to apply an insufficient amount of sunscreen products, leading to insufficient protection from UV rays in daily use.
  • the maximum amount of a sunscreen product there is no limitation about the maximum amount of a sunscreen product.
  • maximum amount 2 mg/cm 2
  • SPF sun protection factor
  • the application pressure for step (3) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention was determined with a HapLog system (Haptic skill logger, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.).
  • a HapLog system HapLog system
  • a sensor is set on a finger nail.
  • the tip of the finger is pressed on a measurement surface of the system, the sides of the finger are deformed according to the pressure applied onto the measurement surface.
  • This system transforms the deformation of the finger to a load value, measuring the pressure applied by the finger. 10 women panelists j oined the measurement of application pressure.
  • the sensor of a HapLog system was set on the tip of the index finger of each panelist. Each panelist was instructed to perform the simulation of self-applying on her cheek, and the pressure during the simulated self-application was recorded. The pressure on the skin was quantified as an average of the 100 highest values.
  • the image was analyzed using ImageJ software (W. Rasband, NIH) to quantify the intensity of fluorescence within an Area of Interest on the cheek of 600 x 600 pixels. Data were extracted from their dominant hand side of the face only.
  • the maximum pressure was 1.5 N, typically around 1 N.
  • the “light” application pressure was determined as, at most, 1.5 N.
  • the lowest level was set at 0.2 N when the hand is hardly touching the skin.
  • a tube which had a nozzle and included a sunscreen product having the formulation shown in Table 1 below was pressed to discharge the sunscreen product from the nozzle, onto the skin of the back of a hand of each panelist.
  • the amount of the sunscreen product was 0.3 g or more.
  • the sunscreen product was divided and placed on the center of the forehead, both of the areas on the cheeks close to the nose, the center of the nose and the center of the chin on the face of each panelist.
  • the sunscreen product present at the five spots was spread over the face with 3 or 4 fingers, spreading from the center to peripheral of the face. The spreading was performed gently, such that the pressure to the sunscreen product was less than 1 ,5N.
  • a single finger was used with the same pressure.
  • the face was tapped with 3 to 4 fingers to obtain a homogeneous film of the sunscreen product.
  • a single finger was used to tap.
  • the face was pressed with the palms of two hands on each side of the face to adhere the film onto the skin and/or to confirm the evenness of the appearance of the face.
  • a tube which had a nozzle and included a sunscreen product having the formulation shown in Table 1 below was pressed to discharge the sunscreen product from the nozzle onto the skin of the back of a hand of each panelist, without any instruction.
  • the amount of the sunscreen product was 0.3 g or more.
  • the image of the face was acquired using a VISIA® Evolution (Canfield Scientific) system under UV light mode. Measurements were conducted on bare skin before test, and immediately after application.
  • the homogeneity of the film formed by the sunscreen product was evaluated qualitatively by checking the homogeneity of UV absorption of the face.
  • Example 1 As a result, it was found that the cosmetic method performed in Example 1 increased the film homogeneity than the cosmetic method performed in Comparative Example 1.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition onto a face, comprising the steps of: (1) providing a sunscreen composition in an amount of 0.3 g or more; (2) placing or allocating the sunscreen composition on at least three points on the face with at least one finger, wherein the at least three points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin; (3) spreading the sunscreen composition from the center to peripheral of the face with at least three fingers, applying a pressure of 1.5 N or less; and (5) tapping the face with at least three fingers to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition on the face. The cosmetic method according to the present invention can provide effective protection from UV rays.

Description

DESCRIPTION
TITLE OF INVENTION
COSMETIC METHOD FOR APPLYING SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method or process for applying a sunscreen composition.
BACKGROUND ART
A variety of sunscreen products are used to protect the skin, in particular the skin of a face, from UV rays which may, in particular, be irradiated from the sun.
However, consumers of sunscreen products may not be able to effectively use them if they are not applied appropriately. The actual protection ability of the sunscreen products may depend on how the sunscreen products are used.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition which provide effective protection from UV rays.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition onto a face, comprising the steps of:
(1) providing a sunscreen composition in an amount of 0.3 g or more;
(2) placing the sunscreen composition on at least three points on the face with at least one finger, wherein the at least three points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin;
(3) spreading the sunscreen composition from the center to peripheral of the face with at least three fingers, applying a pressure of 1.5 N or less; and
(4) tapping the face with at least three fingers to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition on the face.
The amount of the sunscreen composition provided in step (1) may be more than 0.3 g, preferably 0.4 g or more, and more preferably 0.5 g or more, and less than 0.6 g.
In step (1), the sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand, as a line to form a spiral shape, to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition;
In step (1), the sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand, as a line to form a spiral shape winding two or three times, to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition.
In step (2), the sunscreen composition may be placed on at least four points, preferably five points of the face, wherein the at least four points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, the center of the nose, and the center of the chin. In step (3), the pressure may be applied in step (3) with at least three curved fingers
In step (3), the sunscreen composition may also be applied with at least one applicator.
Preferably, after step (3), the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise a step of spreading the sunscreen composition on the nose and eyelids of the face, wherein at least one finger is used. Preferably, for spreading the sunscreen composition on the nose and eyelids of the face, a pressure of 1.5 N or less is applied. The sunscreen composition may also be applied on the nose and eyelids of the face with at least one applicator.
Step (4) may be performed with at least one device.
The cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise a step (5) pressing the face with hands. In step (5), at least the cheeks of the face may be pressed simultaneously.
It is preferable that the sunscreen composition used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention be in the form of a cream.
The sunscreen composition used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one UV filter.
The sunscreen composition used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise:
(b) at least one fatty material; and
(c) at least one solvent.
The sunscreen composition used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may furthermore comprise (d) at least one surfactant and/or (e) at least one thickener.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
Figure 1 shows an example of a spiral shape which may be formed during step (1) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention.
Figure 2 shows an example of gestures in steps (2) to (5) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered a new cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition which can provide effective protection from UV rays.
Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition onto a face, comprising the steps of:
(1) providing a sunscreen composition in an amount of 0.3 g or more;
(2) placing the sunscreen composition on at least four points on the face with at least one finger, wherein the at least four points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin; (3) spreading the sunscreen composition from the center to peripheral of the face with at least three fingers, applying a pressure of 1.5 N or less; and
(4) tapping the face with at least three fingers to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition on the face.
The cosmetic method according to the present invention can provide effective protection from UV rays, by forming a homogeneous or even film with a sufficient thickness of a sunscreen composition on a face.
The cosmetic method according to the present invention can also reduce unprotected skin area on the face.
Conventional sunscreen products do not propose clear guideline and gesture to obtain a homogeneous or even film with a sufficient thickness of a sunscreen composition on a face.
On the other hand, the present invention can provide a clear guideline for, preferably how to obtain, a sufficient amount of a sunscreen composition, and a clear gesture to improve homogeneity or evenness of a film of a sunscreen composition on the face.
Hereinafter, the cosmetic method according to the present invention and the like will be explained in a more detailed mamier.
[Cosmetic Method]
The cosmetic method, or cosmetic process, according to the present invention for applying a sunscreen composition onto a face, comprises the steps of:
(1) providing a sunscreen composition in an amount of 0.3 g or more;
(2) placing the sunscreen composition on at least three points on the face with at least one finger, wherein the at least three points comprises any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin;
(3) spreading the sunscreen composition from the center to peripheral of the face with at least three fingers, applying a pressure of 1.5 N or less; and
(4) tapping the face with at least three fingers to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition on the face.
The cosmetic method according to the present invention may be characterized by a combination of an appropriate amount of a sunscreen composition and an appropriate application protocol defined by specific gesture pressure and gesture pattern.
Each step comprised in the cosmetic method according to the present invention will be described below.
(Step 1)
Step (1) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention provides a sunscreen composition in an amount of 0.3 g or more. It may be preferable that the amount of a sunscreen composition be 0.4 g or more, and more preferably 0.5 g or more. An amount of 0.3 g or more of a sunscreen composition can provide a cosmetic film with a sufficient thickness of the sunscreen composition. There is no upper limit for the amount of a sunscreen composition to be provided in step (1) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention. However, it may be preferable that the amount of a sunscreen composition be 0.6 g or less.
Preferably, the amount of the sunscreen composition provided in step (1) is more than 0.3 g, more preferably 0.4 g or more, and even more preferably 0.5 g or more, and less than 0.6 g.
The sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand.
In step (1), a sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand, as a line to form a spiral shape, in order to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition.
For example, a sunscreen composition may be filled in a container, such as a tube, with a nozzle, and the sunscreen composition may be discharged from the nozzle, with pressing and moving the container in a spiral way starting from the center to peripheral of the spiral, as a line with leaving little or no space between the lines. The width of the line should be constant by controlling, for example, the pressure to be applied to the container, the speed of moving the container, and the like.
In the above embodiment, a sunscreen composition may be provided onto the back or palm of a hand, as a line to form a spiral shape winding two or three times, in order to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition. The diameter of the spiral shape may be from 1 cm to 2 cm, such as 1.5 cm.
Fig. 1 shows an example of a spiral shape which may be formed during step (1).
In the spiral shape shown in Fig. 1, a line of a sunscreen composition starts from the center of the spiral shape and is wound three times. In the spiral shape shown in Fig. 1 , a little space is present between the lines to show the lines separately. However, it is preferable that there is no space between the lines.
(Step 2)
Step (2) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention places the sunscreen composition provided by step (1) on at least three points on the face of a user of the sunscreen composition with at least one finger, wherein the at least three points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin.
For example, a user can pick up a part of a sunscreen composition provided, for example, on the back or palm of a hand, and place it on the at least three points on the face of the user.
The amount of the sunscreen composition to be picked up may be equal or similar to each other.
By placing the sunscreen composition on the area on the cheeks close to the nose, the sunscreen composition can be spread more evenly over the face by the cosmetic method according to the present invention.
It is preferable that, in step (2), the sunscreen composition be placed on at least four points, on the face, wherein the at least four points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, the center of the nose, and the center of the chin. The at least four points may comprise the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin.
It is more preferable that, in step (2), the sunscreen composition be placed on at least five points on the face, wherein the at least five points may comprise the center of the forehead, the cheeks, the center of the nose, and the center of the chin.
As a result of step (2), it becomes easy to spread the sunscreen composition over the face.
(Step 3)
Step (3) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention spreads the sunscreen composition after step (2) from the center to peripheral of the face with at least three fingers, applying a pressure of 1.5 N or less, preferably around 1 N.
It may be preferable that the pressure be 0.2 N or more, and more preferably 0.3 N or more.
The pressure when applying can be measured by, for example, a HAPTIC Force Plate (TF- 2020, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.), or a HapLog system (Haptic skill logger, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.) in which a sensor to measure pressure can be attached to the tip of a finger.
In step (3), the sunscreen composition can be applied mainly onto relatively 2-dimensional part of the face, such as forehead and cheeks.
Spreading with such light pressure, the sunscreen composition can be applied evenly on the face.
By using at least three fingers, such light pressure can easily be produced. The light pressure may be simulated by the pressure felt when touching sands without moving the surface of the sands.
It is preferable that the pressure is applied in step (3) with at least three curved fingers, more preferably along the profile of the face.
It may be preferable that the spread be performed with the aid of at least one applicator. Any tool for spreading the sunscreen composition may be used.
(Additional Step)
Preferably, after step (3) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention, the sunscreen composition is spread on the nose and eyelids of the face with at least one finger, preferably applying the same pressure.
Thus, when spreading the sunscreen composition on the nose and eyelids of the face, the pressure is preferably 1.5 N or less, and more preferably around 1 N. It may be preferable that the pressure be 0.2 N or more, and more preferably 0.3 N or more.
The pressure when applying can be measured by, for example, a HAPTIC Force Plate (TF- 2020, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.) in which a sensor to measure pressure can be attached to the tip of a finger. The sunscreen composition can be applied onto relatively 3-dimensional part of the face, i.e., nose and eyelids.
Spreading with such light pressure, the sunscreen composition can be applied evenly on the face.
It is preferable that the sunscreen composition be spread from the center to peripheral of the face.
It may be preferable that the spread be performed with the aid of at least one applicator. Any tool for spreading the sunscreen composition may be used.
(Step 4)
Step (4) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention taps the face with at least three fingers to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition.
By using at least three fingers, the cosmetic film of the sunscreen composition over the face can easily be homogeneous or even.
For the 3-dimensional part of the face, such as nostril and around eyes, a single finger may be used for tapping.
The manner and amount of tapping is not limited. It is preferable that the tapping be performed gently and continuously.
Step (4) may be performed with at least one device. The type of the device and how to use the device are not limited. For example, an applicator may be used. Any tool to assist tapping may be used.
(Optional Step)
The cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise a step (5) pressing the face with hands, preferably with the palms of the hands.
The manner and number of pressings in step (5) is not limited. It is preferable that the pressing be performed several times in step (5).
By pressing, the cosmetic film of the sunscreen composition can be adhered well to the face.
It is preferable that at least the forehead and cheeks of the face be pressed in step (5). It may be preferable that at least the cheeks of the face be pressed simultaneously in step (5).
If necessary, a mirror may be used to check or confirm the evenness of a cosmetic film of the sunscreen composition. A feeling from touching the face may also be used to check or conform the evenness of the cosmetic film on the face.
(Gesture)
Fig. 2 shows an example of gestures in the steps (2) to (5) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention.
Before step (2) shown in Fig. 2, 0.3 g or more of a sunscreen composition may be taken out from a container thereof, such as a tube, with a nozzle, by being discharged from the nozzle as a line to form a spiral shape two or three times, as shown in in Fig. 1, on hand.
In step (2) shown in Fig, 2, a sunscreen composition is placed with at least one finger at five points of the face, i.e., the center of the forehead, the cheeks (on the areas on the cheeks close to the nose), the center of the nose, and the center of the chin.
In the steps (3) shown in Fig. 2, the sunscreen composition on the five points is spread from the center to peripheral of the face (cf. the upper enlarged part) with at least three fingers (cf. the left enlarged part). On the nose and eyelids, at least one finger is used to spread the sunscreen composition.
The spread can be performed gently with the at least three fingers. During the spread, the pressure applied onto the face is kept 1.5 N or less. If a device to measure the pressure is not available, it is preferable that the pressure be controlled such that the pressure would not move the surface of sand if the pressure were to be applied by touching onto the surface of sand.
In step (4) shown in Fig. 2, tapping is performed to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition. It is preferable to not wipe or slide along the face. On the nose and eyelids, at least one finger is used to tap. As a result of step (4), a homogeneous or even film of the sunscreen composition can be formed on the face.
In step (5) shown in Fig. 2, pressing is performed to adhere the film of the sunscreen composition onto the face. It is preferable that the pressing be performed several times. If necessary, a mirror may be used to check or conform the evenness of the film on the face. A feeling from touching the face may also be used to check or conform the evenness of the film on the face.
[Sunscreen Composition]
The sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one UV filter.
The sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise:
(b) at least one fatty material; and
(c) at least one solvent.
The sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one surfactant and/or (e) at least one thickener.
It is preferable that, if the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one UV filter; (b) at least one fatty material; and (c) at least one solvent, the sunscreen composition further comprise (d) at least one surfactant and/or (e) at least one thickener. Hereinafter, the sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
(UV Filter)
The sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one UV filter. Two or more different types of UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of UV filter or a combination of different types of UV filters may be used.
There is no limitation to the type of the (a) UV filter. The (a) UV filter can be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the (a) UV filter be selected from organic UV filters.
The amount of the (a) UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (a) UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (a) UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Inorganic UV Filter:
The (a) UV filter may be selected from inorganic UV filters. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV- B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter is preferably insoluble in solvents such as water and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
It is preferable that the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle such that the mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from 1 nm to 50 pm, preferably 5 nm to 500 nm, and more preferably 10 nm to 200 nm. The mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic mean diameter.
The inorganic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the inorganic UV filter is selected from pigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed of metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se. Preferably, the inorganic UV filter is selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and more preferably titanium oxide.
The inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds.
It is preferable for the coating to include at least one organic UV filter. As the organic UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl) Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) marketed as “TINOSORB M” by BASF may be preferable.
In a known manner, the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
The term “silicones” also encompasses silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
The silicones used for the coating(s) can preferably be selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. More preferably still, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
Of course, the inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures.
The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, and/or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
The coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the product “Sunveil” from Ikeda, and “Sunsil TIN 50” from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product “Sunveil F” from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide, and “Mirasun TiW 60” from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)” from Ishihara, and “UVT 14/4” from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01” from Tayca, the products “Solaveil CT-10 W” and “Solaveil CT 100” from Uniquema, and the product “Eusolex T-AVO” from Merck; with alumina and with aluminum laurate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S” from Tayca; with iron oxide and with iron stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F” from Tayca; with zinc oxide and with zinc stearate, such as the product “BR351” from Tayca; with silica and with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS”, and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS” from Tayca; with silica, with alumina and with aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product “STT-30-DS” from Titan Kogyo; with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product “UV-Titan X 195” from Kemira; with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (S)” from Ishihara or “UV Titan M 262” from Kemira; with triethanolamine, such as the product “STT-65-S” from Titan Kogyo; with stearic acid, such as the product “Tipaque TTO-55 (C)” from Ishihara; or with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W” from Tayca.
Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “T 805” by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a poly dimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “70250 Cardre UF TiOiSia” by Cardre, and anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark “Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic” by Color Techniques.
Preferably, the following coated TiCh can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter:
Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh, such as the product “MT- 100 TV” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh, such as the product “SA-TTO-S4” from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
Silica (and) TiCh, such as the product “MT-100 WP” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh, such as the product “MT- Y02” and “MT-Y-110 M3S” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh, such as the product “SA-TTO-S3” from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) TiCh, such as the product “UV TITAN Ml 70” from Sachtleben, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; and
Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) TiCfi, such as the product “MT- 100 AQ” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm.
In terms of UV filtering ability, TiCh coated with at least one organic UV filter is more preferable. For example, Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiCh, such as the product “HXMT-100ZA” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used. The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks “Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B”, by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark "UFTR", by Tomen under the trademark “ITS” and by Tioxide under the trademark “Tioveil AQ”.
The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark “Z-cote” by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark “Nanox” by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.
The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark “Oxide Zinc CS-5” by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the trademark “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “NFD Ultrafme ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with phosphate of perfluoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane) ; those marketed under the trademark “SPD-Z1” by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone- grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “Escalol Z100” by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methicone mixture); those marketed under the trademark “Fuji ZnO-SMS-10” by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the trademark “Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the trademark “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone-Poulenc.
The uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)”, “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ”, and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)”, or by Mitsubishi under the trademark “TY-220”.
The coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345”, and “Nanogard FE 45 BL”, or by BASF under the trademark “Oxyde de fer transparent”.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and of cerium dioxide coated with silica marketed by Ikeda under the trademark “Sunveil A”, and also a mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide coated with alumina, with silica and with silicone, such as the product “M 261” marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, with silica and with glycerol, such as the product “M 211” marketed by Kemira.
Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable, because the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. In addition, the coating(s) may help uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition according to the present invention.
The amount of the inorganic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the inorganic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the inorganic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic UV Filter:
The (a) UV filter may be selected from organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
The organic UV filter can be hydrophobic or water- insoluble. The organic UV filter can function as an oily ingredient. Thus, the organic UV filter can form discontinuous or inner phases of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition according to the present invention is in the form of, for example, an O/W emulsion.
The organic UV filter may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be lipophilic or oil-soluble.
The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms “solid” and “liquid” mean a substance with no fluidity and a substance with fluidity, respectively, at 25 °C under 1 atm.
The organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; p,P-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made, as examples of the organic UV filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof.
- Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmarm and Reimer. - Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
- Cinnamic compounds: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxy cinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate .
- Salicylic compounds: Homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer.
- Camphor compounds, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3 -benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex.
- Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone- 1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone- 3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone- 8, marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul DS- 49" by BASF; benzophenone- 12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+ by BASF).
- P,P-Diphenylacrylate compounds: Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539" by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF.
- Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the trademark « UVINUL T150 » by BASF.
- Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H- benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.
- Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche.
- Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives.
- Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
- Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264. - Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
- Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2’-methylenebis[6-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2’-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3- tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the trademark “Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB- 2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and EP-893,119, and
Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or “Mexoryl XL” by L’Oreal, as represented below.
Figure imgf000015_0001
- Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6- (2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the trademark Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.
- Screening polymers and screening silicones: The silicones described in WO 93/04665.
- Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE-19855649.
- 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
It is preferable that the organic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, benzophenone- 3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4- diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,l'-(l,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4- (diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl] -methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{l, 3,3,3- tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)- triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmal onate, 1,1- dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyIbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.
It is more preferable that the organic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.
The amount of the organic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. On the other hand, the amount of the organic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the organic UV filter(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (F atty Material)
The sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (b) at least one fatty material. Two or more fatty materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty material or a combination of different types of fatty materials may be used.
The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty material.
Two or more different types of (b) fatty materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) fatty material or a combination of different types of (b) fatty materials may be used.
The term “fatty material” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferentially 0.1%).
The fatty material may be in the form of a liquid or a solid. Here, “liquid” and “solid” mean that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) or solid, respectively, at ambient temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa). It is preferable that the fatty material comprise at least one fatty material in the form of a paste or a solid, preferably in the form of a solid, at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
The fatty material may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic glycerides, esters of fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons. These fatty materials may be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the fatty material is selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, synthetic glycerides, fatty esters other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils, and aliphatic hydrocarbons. More preferably, the (b) fatty material is selected from fatty alcohols, aliphatic hydrocarbons, preferably mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of other aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may also be made of linear or branched, or possibly cyclic Ce-Cie lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and C13-C14 isoparaffin.
As examples of synthetic glycerides, mention may be made of, for instance, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company, Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company, Dynamit Nobel.
As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof. As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene, perhydrosqualene and squalane.
As examples of the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, which are advantageously different from the animal or plant oils as well as the synthetic glycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty esters, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. The term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
These esters may be selected, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters.
The (b) fatty material may be selected from fatty alcohols, and two or more fatty alcohols may be used.
The term “fatty alcohol” here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohol, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
Among the C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 fatty alcohols, for example, are used. Mention may be made among these of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as myristyl alcohol, can be used as a solid fatty material. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty material.
The (b) fatty material may be selected from waxes. Here, “wax” means that the fatty material is substantially in the form of a solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a melting point generally of 35 °C or more. As the waxy fatty material, waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combinations thereof. The amount of the (b) fatty material(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (b) fatty material(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Solvent)
The sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one solvent. Two or more solvents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of solvent or a combination of different types of solvents may be used.
The (c) solvent may be selected from water, monovalent alcohols, polyvalent alcohols and mixtures thereof. The term “monovalent alcohol” here means an alcohol having one hydroxy group. The examples of monovalent alcohol include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol.
The term “polyvalent alcohol” or polyol here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
The monovalent or polyvalent alcohols used in the present invention are liquid at ambient temperature such as 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
The polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
The polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, C6-C24 polyethyleneglycol, 1,3 -propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and a mixture thereof.
It is preferable that the polyol be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, and a mixture thereof.
The amount of the (c) solvent(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (c) solvent(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (c) solvent(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Surfactant)
The sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used. The (d) surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants.
The amount of the (d) surfactant(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (d) surfactant(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (d) surfactant(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Thickener)
The sunscreen composition to be used for the cosmetic method according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one thickener. Two or more thickeners may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of thickener or a combination of different types of thickeners may be used.
The (e) thickener or thickening agent may be selected from organic and inorganic thickeners.
The organic thickeners may be chosen from at least one of:
(i) associative thickeners;
(ii) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers;
(iii) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (Ci-Ce)alkyl acrylate;
(iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers;
(v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide;
(vi) polysaccharides; and
(vii) C12-C30 fatty alcohols.
(i) As used herein, the expression "associative thickener" means an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
Representative associative thickeners that may be used are associative polymers chosen from:
(aa) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit;
(bb) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit;
(cc) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit; and
(dd) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit, wherein the fatty chain contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The (aa) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit may, for example, be chosen from:
(1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include: hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups, and in which the alkyl groups are, for example, C8-C22, such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS(Ci-6 alkyls) sold by the company Aquaion, and the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel, and celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol.
(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products Miracare XC95-3 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia Chimie.
(3) polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl groups, for instance the products Elfacos T 210 and Elfacos T 212 sold by the company Akzo or the products Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
(4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers; examples that may be mentioned include: the products Antaron V216 and Ganex V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., and the products Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.R
(5) copolymers of Ci-Ce alkyl acrylates or methacrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208.
(6) copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates or methacrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as a polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
The (bb) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit, may, for example, be chosen from those comprising at least one fattychain allyl ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit comprising an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomeric unit, for example, a vinylcarboxylic acid unit and further, for example, be chosen from units derived from acrylic acids, methacrylic acids, and mixtures thereof, wherein the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:
CH2=C(Ri)CH2OBnR (I) in which Ri is chosen from H and CH3, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is chosen from zero and integers ranging from 1 to 100, R is chosen from hydrocarbon-based radicals chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, and cycloalkyl radicals, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and further, for example, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even further, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, a unit of formula (I) is, for example, a unit in which Ri can be H, n can be equal to 10, and R can be a stearyl (Cis) radical.
Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479 B2.
In one embodiment, anionic amphiphilic polymers are, for example, polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (I), and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylenebisacrylamide.
Examples of such polymers are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (Steareth-10), such as those sold by the company Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80 and Salcare SC 90, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, and of steareth- 10 allyl ether (40/50/10).
The anionic amphiphilic polymers may further be chosen, for example, from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of a type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid. The hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to, for example, the monomer of formula (II) below:
Figure imgf000022_0001
in which R1 is chosen from H, CH3, and C2H5, i.e., acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and ethacrylic acid units. The hydrophobic unit of a type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to, for example, the monomer of formula (III) below:
Figure imgf000022_0002
in which R1 is chosen from H, CH3, and C2H5 (i.e., acrylate, methacrylate, and ethacrylate units) and is, for example, chosen from, for example, H (acrylate units) and CH3 (methacrylate units), and R2 is chosen from C10-C30 alkyl radicals, for example, C12-C22 alkyl radicals.
Examples of (Cio-C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
According to a preferred embodiment, these thickening polymers are crosslinked. Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are disclosed and prepared, for example, according to U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
Representative anionic amphiphilic polymers that can be used may further be chosen from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
(i) acrylic acid,
(ii) an ester of formula (III) described above in which R2 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
(iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, allyl ether of sucrose, allyl ether of pentaerythritol, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
Use will more particularly be made, among copolymers of this type, of those composed of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer or else of those composed of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above.
Preference is very particularly given according to the present invention, among the said polymers above, to acrylate/ C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/ C10- C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen® TRI, Pemulen® TR2, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer, Carbopol® 1382 and Carbopol® EDT 2020.
Among anionic amphiphilic fatty-chain polymers, mention may also be made, for example, of the ethoxylated copolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/alkyl dimethyl-meta- isopropenylbenzylisocyanate sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.
The (cc) cationic amphiphilic polymers used are, for example, chosen from quatemized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates comprising amino side groups.
The quatemized cellulose derivatives are, for example, chosen from quatemized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and quatemized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
Quatemized and non-quatemized polyacrylates comprising amino side groups have, for example, hydrophobic groups, such as Steareth 20 (polyoxy-ethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol) and (Cio-C3o)alkyl PEG-20 itaconate.
The alkyl radicals borne by the above quatemized celluloses and hydroxyethylcelluloses, for example, contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
The aryl radicals, for example, are chosen from phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, and anthryl groups. Examples of quatemized alkylhydroxyethyl-celluloses comprising Cg-Cso fatty chains are the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl), and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol, and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl), and Crodacel QS (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
Examples of polyacrylates comprising amino side chains are the polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 and Structure Plus from the company National Starch.
Among the (dd) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit, mention may be made, for example, of copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid/Cio-Cbo alkyl methacrylate, wherein the alkyl radical is, for example, a stearyl radical.
The associative thickeners in the compositions can have, for example, in solution or in dispersion at a concentration of 1% active material in water, a viscosity, measured using a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer at 25 °C, of greater than 0.1 ps and further, for example, of greater than 0.2 cp, at a shear rate of 200 s'1.
(ii) Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers that may be mentioned are those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series. Mention may be made of carbomer, which is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Lubrizol or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A.
(iii) The crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of Ci-Ce alkyl acrylate can be chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion comprising 38% active material sold, for example, under the name Viscoatex 538C by the company Coatex, and crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion comprising 28% active material sold under the name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm & Haas. Crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate include an aqueous dispersion comprising 30% active material sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by the company NOVEON.
(iv) Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type, mention may be made of the products sold under the names; Cyanamer P250 by the company Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by the company US Cosmetics (methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); Acryloid B66 by the company Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer); and BPA 500 by the company Kobo (polymethyl methacrylate).
As examples, mention may also be made for at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymer comprising, at least, acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer.
The AMPS (co)polymer may be preferably totally neutralized or virtually totally neutralized, i.e., at least 90% neutralized. The AMPS (co)polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
Examples of the AMPS (co)polymers that may be mentioned include: acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers, such as the copolymer in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide/Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffm/Laureth-7) or the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the trademark Simulgel 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/P- oly sorbate- 80) by SEPPIC; copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AV C by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/V- P Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; copolymers of AMPS and of sodium acrylate, for instance AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG by SEPPIC (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate-80); and copolymers of AMPS and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance AMP S/hydroxy ethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the copolymer in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60).
It may be more preferable that the AMPS (co)polymer be acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
(v) Ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned include the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst.
Copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide include the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst (which are described and prepared in documents FR-2 416 723, U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053, and U.S. Pat. No. 2,923,692).
(vi) The polysaccharides are, for example, chosen from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, com, or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow peas, and tubers, for instance potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses, and derivatives thereof (e.g., methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids, and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, gum tragacanths, ghatti gums, karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans, such as guar gums, and nonionic derivatives thereof (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and xanthan gums, and mixtures thereof.
For example, the polysaccharides that may be used are chosen from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and Volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc., the content of these three publications being entirely incorporated herein by reference.
For example, starches, guar gums, celluloses, and derivatives thereof can be used.
Among the starches that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising base units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary according to the botanical origin of the starches.
The molecules of starches used may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches can be, for example, chosen from maize, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches.
Starches generally exist in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, whose elementary particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.
The starches may be optionally Ci-Ce hydroxyalkylated or Ci-Ce acylated (such as acetylated). The starches may have also undergone heat treatments.
Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, such as the product provided under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropylated cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE, may also be used.
The guar gums can be modified or unmodified.
The unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Meyhall.
The modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl groups.
Among the hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups.
These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
The degree of hydroxy lkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.
Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293, and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie (Meyhall) or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aquaion.
Among the celluloses and cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose modified with hydroxylalkyl groups, that are used are, for example, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcelluloses, as well as hydrophobicized hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.
Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel E F, Klucel H, Klucel L H F, Klucel M F, and Klucel G by the company Aquaion.
(vii) The fatty alcohols used as thickeners do not contain polyoxyalkylenated groups and are, for example, chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol.
The (e) thickener may be selected from polymeric thickeners, preferably associative polymeric thickeners, and more preferably anionic associative polymeric thickeners.
The (e) thickener may be acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the (e) thickener(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (e) thickener(s) in the sunscreen composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (e) thickener(s) in the sunscreen composition may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Other Ingredients)
The sunscreen composition may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers other than the (e) thickener; plant extracts; acidifying agents; basifying agents; coloring agent such as pigments and dyes; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
(Preparation)
The sunscreen composition may be prepared by mixing, for example, the ingredient(s) as explained above, and any other optional or additional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above. The method and means to mix the above ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above ingredients to prepare the sunscreen composition.
(Form)
The sunscreen composition may be in the O/W type or the W/O type, preferably in the O/W type.
It is preferable that the sunscreen composition be in the form of a cream.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[Determination of Application Amount]
According to US Skin Cancer Foundation, the minimum SPF value for daily protection on face is SPF15. However, users of sunscreen products tend to apply an insufficient amount of sunscreen products, leading to insufficient protection from UV rays in daily use.
A study conducted by Fujiwara et al. (Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, Vol. 38, Issue 3, pp. 259-265, 2021) investigated the impact of on-site application density on the effectiveness of a sunscreen product in providing UV protection. The study found that there was a correlation between the amount of a sunscreen product applied and its efficacy in protecting against UV radiation. Based on their findings, considering a face size of 300 cm2 in average, the minimum amount to reach at least SPF 15 was determined as 214.6 mg.
On the other hand, there is no limitation about the maximum amount of a sunscreen product. In consideration of the amount (maximum amount: 2 mg/cm2) used to test sunscreen products in the ISO24444 methods (ISO24444:2019 (en): Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)), and a face size of 300 cm2 in average, the maximum amount was determined as 600 mg.
[Determination of Sampling]
9 panelists joined the determination of sampling.
They were requested to discharge from a tube with a nozzle including a sunscreen product with the formulation shown in Table 1 below onto a sheet of paper, in an amount of “pearl size” (typical instructions for conventional sunscreen products) without any further specific instructions.
On the other hand, they were requested to discharge from the same tube including the same sunscreen product onto a sheet of paper in accordance with a spiral movement of the nozzle. In other words, while pressing, the tube was moved such that the nozzle made a spiral movement which started from center to peripheral, without leaving any space between the lines of the sunscreen product, as shown in Fig. 1. They were requested to try to discharge the same amount of the sunscreen product.
In both cases, the discharged amount of the sunscreen product was measured using a precision scale.
The sampling of “pearl size” without any further specific instructions led to an average amount of 0.26 g with standard deviation of 0.093, with only 1 panelist reaching over 0.3 g, whereas the sampling with a spiral movement led to an average amount of 0.39 g with a standard deviation of 0.21, with 5 panelists reaching 0.3 g.
It was discovered that the sampling with a spiral movement can lead to a higher amount of a sunscreen product. [Determination of Application Pressure]
The application pressure for step (3) in the cosmetic method according to the present invention was determined with a HapLog system (Haptic skill logger, Tec Gihan Co., Ltd.). In the use of the above HapLog system, a sensor is set on a finger nail. When the tip of the finger is pressed on a measurement surface of the system, the sides of the finger are deformed according to the pressure applied onto the measurement surface. This system transforms the deformation of the finger to a load value, measuring the pressure applied by the finger. 10 women panelists j oined the measurement of application pressure.
The sensor of a HapLog system was set on the tip of the index finger of each panelist. Each panelist was instructed to perform the simulation of self-applying on her cheek, and the pressure during the simulated self-application was recorded. The pressure on the skin was quantified as an average of the 100 highest values.
Then, the HapLog system was removed from the finger, and each panelist was provided 300 mg of a sunscreen product with the formulation shown in Table 1 for whole-face application. They applied the product with a controlled number of strokes and gesture direction but with their usual application pressure.
After application, the image of their front face was acquired using a VISIA® Evolution (Canfield Scientific) system under UV light mode. This system takes images of a face with information on the fluorescence of the skin of the face. The higher the amount of a sunscreen product is, the higher the UV light absorption is, leading to lower fluorescence.
The image was analyzed using ImageJ software (W. Rasband, NIH) to quantify the intensity of fluorescence within an Area of Interest on the cheek of 600 x 600 pixels. Data were extracted from their dominant hand side of the face only.
As a result, the finger pressure (N) and intensity of fluorescence were correlated with a coefficient of r = 0.734.
Accordingly, the higher the pressure was, the lower the amount of sunscreen product left on the face. On the other hand, when the panelists were requested to simulate a “light” gesture, such as touching sand without moving the surface of the sand, the maximum pressure was 1.5 N, typically around 1 N. Thus, the “light” application pressure was determined as, at most, 1.5 N.
On the other hand, the lowest level was set at 0.2 N when the hand is hardly touching the skin.
[Example 1 and Comparative Example 1]
6 panelists joined to perform the cosmetic method for Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.
(Example 1)
A tube which had a nozzle and included a sunscreen product having the formulation shown in Table 1 below was pressed to discharge the sunscreen product from the nozzle, onto the skin of the back of a hand of each panelist. The amount of the sunscreen product was 0.3 g or more.
Then, the sunscreen product was divided and placed on the center of the forehead, both of the areas on the cheeks close to the nose, the center of the nose and the center of the chin on the face of each panelist.
Next, the sunscreen product present at the five spots was spread over the face with 3 or 4 fingers, spreading from the center to peripheral of the face. The spreading was performed gently, such that the pressure to the sunscreen product was less than 1 ,5N. For three- dimensional shapes on the face, such as nostril and eyelids, a single finger was used with the same pressure.
After spreading the sunscreen product, the face was tapped with 3 to 4 fingers to obtain a homogeneous film of the sunscreen product. For three-dimensional shapes on the face, such as nostril and eyelids, a single finger was used to tap.
Lastly, the face was pressed with the palms of two hands on each side of the face to adhere the film onto the skin and/or to confirm the evenness of the appearance of the face.
(Comparative Example 1)
A tube which had a nozzle and included a sunscreen product having the formulation shown in Table 1 below was pressed to discharge the sunscreen product from the nozzle onto the skin of the back of a hand of each panelist, without any instruction. The amount of the sunscreen product was 0.3 g or more.
They applied the sunscreen product onto the face without any instruction.
(Evaluation)
After application, the image of the face was acquired using a VISIA® Evolution (Canfield Scientific) system under UV light mode. Measurements were conducted on bare skin before test, and immediately after application.
The homogeneity of the film formed by the sunscreen product was evaluated qualitatively by checking the homogeneity of UV absorption of the face.
As a result, it was found that the cosmetic method performed in Example 1 increased the film homogeneity than the cosmetic method performed in Comparative Example 1.
(Sunscreen Product)
Table 1
Figure imgf000031_0001

Claims

1. A cosmetic method for applying a sunscreen composition onto a face, comprising the steps of:
(1) providing a sunscreen composition in an amount of 0.3 g or more;
(2) placing the sunscreen composition on at least three points on the face with at least one finger, wherein the at least three points comprise any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, and the center of the chin;
(3) spreading the sunscreen composition from the center to peripheral of the face with at least three fingers, applying a pressure of 1.5 N or less; and
(4) tapping the face with at least three fingers to obtain a film of the sunscreen composition on the face.
2. The cosmetic method according to Claim 1 , wherein the amount of the sunscreen composition provided in step (1) is more than 0.3 g, preferably 0.4 g or more, and more preferably 0.5 g or more, and less than 0.6 g.
3. The cosmetic method according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the sunscreen composition is provided onto the back or palm of a hand, in step (1), as a line to form a spiral shape, to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition.
4. The cosmetic method according to Claim 3, wherein the sunscreen composition is provided onto the back or palm of a hand, in step (1), as a line to form a spiral shape winding two or three times, to provide 0.3 g or more of the sunscreen composition.
5. The cosmetic method according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the sunscreen composition is placed, in step (2), on at least four points, preferably five points of the face the at least four points comprising any one of the center of the forehead, the cheeks, the center of the nose, and the center of the chin.
6. The cosmetic method according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the pressure is applied in step (3) with at least three curved fingers.
7. The cosmetic method according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the sunscreen composition is applied, in step (3), with at least one applicator.
8. The cosmetic method according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, further comprising a step of spreading the sunscreen composition on the nose and eyelids of the face with at least one finger, preferably applying a pressure of 1.5 N or less, after step (3).
9. The cosmetic method according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein step (4) is performed with at least one device.
10. The cosmetic method according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, further comprising a step (5) pressing the face with hands.
11. The cosmetic method according to Claim 10, wherein at least the cheeks of the face are pressed simultaneously in step (5).
12. The cosmetic method according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the sunscreen composition is in the form of a cream.
13. The cosmetic method according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the sunscreen composition comprises (a) at least one UV filter.
14. The cosmetic method according to Claim 13, wherein the sunscreen composition further comprises:
(b) at least one fatty material; and
(c) at least one solvent.
15. The cosmetic method according to Claim 14, wherein the sunscreen composition further comprises (d) at least one surfactant and/or (e) at least one thickener.
PCT/JP2024/080133 2023-10-31 2024-08-02 Cosmetic method for applying sunscreen composition Pending WO2025095141A1 (en)

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JP2023186537 2023-10-31
JP2023-186537 2023-10-31
FR2401678A FR3159318A3 (en) 2024-02-21 2024-02-21 COSMETIC METHOD FOR APPLYING A SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION
FR2401678 2024-02-21

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