WO2025095140A1 - Composition comprenant un polymère d'acide poly(méth)acrylique neutralisé - Google Patents
Composition comprenant un polymère d'acide poly(méth)acrylique neutralisé Download PDFInfo
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- WO2025095140A1 WO2025095140A1 PCT/JP2024/080132 JP2024080132W WO2025095140A1 WO 2025095140 A1 WO2025095140 A1 WO 2025095140A1 JP 2024080132 W JP2024080132 W JP 2024080132W WO 2025095140 A1 WO2025095140 A1 WO 2025095140A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/042—Gels
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/24—Thermal properties
- A61K2800/244—Endothermic; Cooling; Cooling sensation
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, which can provide a unique appearance and texture.
- Imparting texture to keratinous substances, such as skin, is one of the key features of cosmetic products, especially skin cosmetic products.
- a refreshing feel (as the cosmetic product bursts, allowing liquid to flow out, in other words, a transformation of a physical property like from a gel/cream to a liquid) by a structural collapse during application, and no sticky feeling after application are often required for consumer satisfaction.
- a gel with a unique sherbet-like appearance can provide a visually refreshing impression that matches the above transformative texture and no sticky skin finish.
- An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can provide a sherbet-like appearance as well as texture transformation (from the texture of a gel/cream to the texture of a liquid) during application and no sticky feeling after application.
- composition preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer be crosslinked.
- the amount of the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.9% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the (b) organic acid or salt thereof may be selected from hydroxyl acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, and salts thereof, preferably from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycyrrhizinic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- the amount of the (b) organic acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7.0, preferably less than 6.5, and more preferably less than 6.0.
- composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one polysaccharide.
- the amount of the (d) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil- absorbable particle.
- the amount of the (e) oil-absorbable particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil.
- composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention.
- composition which can provide a sherbet-like appearance as well as texture transformation (from the texture of a gel/cream to the texture of a liquid) during application and no sticky feeling after application.
- one aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:
- the composition according to the present invention can provide a sherbet-like appearance as well as texture transformation (from the texture of a geVcream to the texture of a liquid) during application and no sticky feeling after application.
- the term “sticky” here means a property which provides a tacky feeling to the skin.
- the composition according to the present invention can provide both a refreshing visual impression and a refreshing feeling to touch.
- the composition according to the present invention can provide a unique appearance and texture.
- composition according to the present invention can also provide additional effects.
- a composition including an organic acid or a salt thereof may have difficulty in being thickened and may have a low viscosity. Therefore, in order to thicken such a composition including an organic acid or a salt thereof, a large amount of a thickener tends to be added to the composition.
- a thickener in a composition may negatively influence the texture transformation of the composition or may cause sticky feeling to touch.
- a thickener is a synthetic polymer
- the use of a large amount of the thickener may cause the formation of noodles after application due to the aggregation of the synthetic polymers.
- composition according to the present invention includes (b) organic acid or salt thereof.
- composition according to the present invention may include a large amount of the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) in order to sufficiently thicken the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention can cause good texture transformation and no sticky feeling after application.
- the composition according to the present invention can suppress the formation of noodles after application.
- composition according to the present invention is stable.
- the composition according to the present invention is stable just after the preparation of the composition and a long time after the preparation of the composition, even under elevated temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time, and can be stored for a long period of time even under hot conditions, for example, in summer.
- composition according to the present invention comprises
- the composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer.
- a single type of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be used, while two or more different types of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymers may be used in combination.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may have a water absorbing property. Therefore, the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer can be a water absorbing polymer.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may have a water absorbing capacity of 10 g or more, preferably 20 g or more, and more preferably 50 g or more, and/or of 2,000 g or less, preferably 1,500 g or less, and more preferably 1 ,000 g or less, relative to 1 g of the polymer at 25°C and 1 atm.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be provided in the form of particles, and preferably in the form of spherical particles.
- the average primary particle size as D50 of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is not particularly limited, but in general is 0.1 pm or more, preferably 0.5 pm or more, and more preferably 1 pm or more, and/or is 200 pm or less, preferably 100 pm or less, more preferably 50 pm or less.
- the term “Dso” herein means the particle size at which 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are smaller than or equal to D50 and 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are larger than Dso.
- the Dso value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be water-soluble. Therefore, the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be included in the aqueous phase, including the (c) water, of the composition according to the present invention.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be neutralized totally or partially.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is partially neutralized.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be totally or partially in the form of a salt, preferably a metal salt, more preferably alkaline metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.
- the molar ratio of neutralized parts to un-neutralized parts is not particularly limited , but in general 10 mol% or more, 20 mol% or more, 30 mol% or more, or 40 mol% or more, and/or 90 mol% or less, 80 mol% or less, 70 mol% or less, or 60 mol% or less.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may have a repeating unit represented by the following formula (I):
- R 1 and R 2 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably R 1 and R 2 represent a hydrogen atom; and
- M + represents H + or a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal cation, alkaline earth metal cation or ammonium ion, more preferably M + represents an alkali metal cation such as sodium cation.
- the repeating number of the above repeating unit according to the formula (I) is 2 or more.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer with a repeating unit according to the formula (I) may be derived from the polymerization of several monomers, identical (in which case it is homopolymer) or different (in which case it is copolymers) selected from those of formula (la):
- HC(R ] ) C(R 2 )-COO-M + (la) wherein R 1 , R 2 and M + are as defined above, in the presence of at least one polymerization initiator (e.g., a UV-initiator) to lead to polymers of fonnula (I) as defined above.
- at least one polymerization initiator e.g., a UV-initiator
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be crosslinked.
- the closslinking of the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be performed by, for example, applying at least one crosslinking agent to the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer by spraying.
- the (a) neutralized poly(meth)aciylic acid polymer is a crosslinked homopolymer.
- Mention may particularly be made of sodium polyacrylate sold under the name of AQUPEC MG N40R, which is crosslinked and partially neutralized and also called as sodium carbomer.
- the amount of the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 0.7% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.9% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.9% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one organic acid or salt thereof. If two or more such acids or salts are used, they may be the same or different.
- the organic acid may have at least one acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, and a mixture thereof. It is preferable that the organic acid has at least one carboxylic group.
- the organic acid may be a monovalent, a divalent or a polyvalent organic acid. It is preferable that the organic acid is a monovalent organic acid, and more preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid.
- the (b) organic acid or salt thereof may be selected from hydroxyl acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, and salts thereof.
- the hydroxyl acid be selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.
- alpha-hydroxy acid here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by one carbon atom.
- AHA is a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.
- the alpha-hydroxy acid may be selected from, for example glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from lactic acid.
- beta-hydroxy acid here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by two carbon atoms.
- the beta-hydroxy acid may be salicylic acid.
- organic acids a combination of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid and at least one beta-hydroxy acid, and more preferably a combination of lactic acid and salicylic acid.
- AHA activates the protease in the stratum corneum to enhance the degradation of comeodesmosomes, while in the dermis layer, the AHA can promote collagen formation, which subsequently leads to desquamation of skin.
- AHA also decreases facial pores and blackheads, most likely by targeting enzyme activation and protein functions linked to sebum production.
- BHA adds keratolytic activity which promotes the peeling and shedding of cells in the stratum corneum layer. It also decongests the skin by softening the sebum which blocks the pores. For this reason, it is effective for improving desquamation and especially effective for acne and oily skin types as well.
- the (b) organic acid or salt thereof may be selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- the (b) organic acid or salt thereof may be selected from lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycyrrhizinic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- salt here means a salt formed by addition of suitable base(s) to the organic acid, which may be obtained from a reaction with the organic acid with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art.
- suitable base(s) such as Na and K
- salts with alkaline earth metal such as Mg and Ca
- ammonium salts for example salts with alkaline metal such as Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metal such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
- salts of glycyrrhizinic acid mention may be potassium salts.
- dipotassium glycyrrhizate may preferably be used.
- the amount of the (b) organic acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (b) organic acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (b) organic acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)
- composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water.
- the amount of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one polysaccharide. If two or more polysaccharides are used, they may be the same or different.
- the (d) polysaccharide can be present in the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention.
- the (d) polysaccharide can function as a hydrophilic thickener which can thicken the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention. It is preferable that the (d) polysaccharide be derived from micoorganisms or plants.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms means a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms mention may be made of cardollan, xanthan gum, Jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms be selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from plants means a polysaccharide obtained from plants or algae.
- algal extracts such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof.
- carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is the sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;
- gums such as guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that may be mentioned include the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP 105® by the company Rhodia; the mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) sold by the company GIN; c) modified or unmodified starches, such
- Examples that may be mentioned include stearyl and cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose.
- Examples of cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses that may be mentioned include Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aquaion; and mixtures thereof.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from plants may be chosen from an algal extract, a gum and a cellulose derivative, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, agars, locust bean gum, mannan konjac gum, cetyl or stearyl hydroxyethylcelluloses and tapioca starches may be used.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from plants may be an algal extract chosen from alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof.
- alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof will be used.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from plants may be chosen from a gum, such as guar gum, gum arabic, mannan and konjac gum and locust bean (carob) gum, and mixtures thereof.
- a gum such as guar gum, gum arabic, mannan and konjac gum and locust bean (carob) gum, and mixtures thereof.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from plants may be a modified or unmodified starch chosen from wheat starch, com starch, rice starch, potato starch and tapioca starch, and mixtures thereof.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from plants may be a dextrin, such as com dextrin.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from plants may be a cellulose derivative.
- the cellulose derivative may particularly be a (C1-C3) hydroxyalkyl cellulose, especially modified with hydrophobic chains, particularly hydrophobic group(s) containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the hydrophobic substituent(s) used may be C8-C30 and preferably C10-C22 alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups.
- the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be saturated C10-C22 and preferably C16-C20 alkyl chains, such as cetyl (Cie), stearyl (Cis) and behenyl (C20) groups.
- the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be cetyl groups.
- These cellulose derivatives containing hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may have a viscosity preferably of between 100 and 100000 mPas and preferably between 200 and 20 000 rnPas, measured at 25°C in a solution containing 1% by weight of a polymer in water, this viscosity being determined conventionally using a viscometer of Brookfield LVT type at 6 rpm with a No. 3 spindle.
- cellulose derivatives containing hydrophobic substituent(s) that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention, mention may preferably be made of the cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 CS (INCI name: cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Aqualon/Hercules.
- the (d) polysaccharide derived from plants may be selected from noncellulose polysaccharides.
- the amount of (d) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 % by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of (d) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of (d) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil-absorbable particle. If two or more oil-absorbable particles are used, they may be the same or different.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle is capable of absorbing (and/or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle have an oil-absorbing capacity of 140 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 250 ml/100 g or more, even more preferably 400 ml/100 g or more, further more preferably 600 ml/100 g or more, even further more preferably 800 ml/100 g or more, and further still more preferably 1000 ml/100 g or more.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may have an oil-absorbing capacity of 2200 ml/100 g or less, preferably 2000 ml/100 g or less, more preferably 1800 ml/100 g or less, even more preferably 1600 ml/100 g or less, further more preferably 1400 ml/100 g or less, and even further more preferably 1200 ml/100 g or less.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from 140 ml/100 g to 2200 ml/100 g, preferably from 250 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, even more preferably from 400 ml/100 g to 1800 ml/100 g, further more preferably from 600 ml/100 g to 1600 ml/100 g, even further more preferably from 800 ml/100 g to 1 00 ml/100 g, and further still even more preferably from 1000 ml/100 g to 1200 ml/100 g.
- the amount of oil absorbed (and/or adsorbed) by the (e) oil-absorbable particle may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below.
- the oilabsorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
- the amount of the absorbed (and/or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787/5-1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed/adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point.
- isononyl isononanoate After the addition of 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the (e) oil-absorbable particle using a spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.
- the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
- isononyl isononanoate may be replaced with oleic acid or linseed oil.
- oil-absorbing capacities defined in the present invention mean those measured by using isononyl isononanoate.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may have a volume-average particle size of less than 50 pm, preferably less than 45 pm, and more preferably less than 40 pm. Unless otherwise defined, particle sizes or average particle sizes defined in the present invention mean volume-average particle sizes.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may have a volume-average particle size of 1 pm or more, preferably 2 pm or more, more preferably 3 pm or more, and even more preferably 4 pm or more.
- the (primary) particle size of the (e) oil-absorbable particle may be from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 2 to less than 25 pm, more preferably from 3 to less than 20 pm, and even more preferably from 4 to less than 15 pm.
- the (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this ease, the (primary) particle size is the volume-average (primary) particle size.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle be a porous particle, in particular, a porous spherical particle.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m 2 /g, for instance, greater than or equal to 500 m 2 /g, such as greater than or equal to 600 m 2 /g, and less than or equal to 1500 m 2 /g.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may have a density of from 0.01 to 0.9 g/cm 3 , preferably from 0.05 to 0.5 g/cm 3 , and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.3 g/cm 3 .
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may be organic or inorganic.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may be of inorganic nature.
- the inorganic (e) oil-absorbable particle may have at least one inorganic core and at least one hydrophobic coating.
- the hydrophobic coating may be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent which may be chosen especially from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.
- fatty acids such as stearic acid
- metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
- amino acids such as N-acylamino acids or salts thereof
- lecithin isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.
- the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group.
- the salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts.
- the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.
- alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
- the inorganic (e) oil-absorbable particle comprise at least one material selected from the group consisting of silica, particularly hydrophobic silica such as silica silylate, silicate, perlite, boron nitride, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, kaolin, talc, and a mixture thereof.
- silica particularly hydrophobic silica such as silica silylate, silicate, perlite, boron nitride, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, kaolin, talc, and a mixture thereof.
- the hydrophobic silica particularly silica silylate, may be based on silica aerogels which are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
- sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
- the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit a specific surface area per unit of weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g, and more preferably from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and/or a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, preferably from 1 to 1000 pm, more preferably from 1 to 100 pm, particularly from 1 to 30 pm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, further more preferably from 5 to 20 pm, and even further more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
- SW specific surface area per unit of weight
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 20 pm, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
- D[0.5] volume-average diameter
- the specific surface area per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
- BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
- the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
- the sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern.
- the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
- This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter.
- This theory is described, in particular, in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit a specific surface area per unit of weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 pm, and preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
- SW specific surface area per unit of weight
- D[0.5] volume-average diameter
- the silica aerogel particles can advantageously exhibit a packed density (r) ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 , and preferably from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
- this density known as the packed density
- this density can be assessed according to the following protocol:
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 , and more preferably from 15 to 40 m 2 /cirf.
- hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica, the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, particularly dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
- silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, particularly dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
- hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface with trimethylsilyl groups.
- inorganic (e) oil-absorbable particle examples include the fillers described below:
- Silica powders that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name of SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 243 ml/100 g), precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 398 ml/100 g),
- Sunsphere® 12 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 140.6 ml/100 g) by the company AGO Si-Tech, and silica silylate sold under the name of VM-2270 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 1090 ml/100 g) by the company Dow Coming.
- Silica powders that may be mentioned include porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 370 ml/100 g) by the company Asahi Glass;
- Perlite powders that may be mentioned include perlite sold under the name of
- Optimat® 1430 OR and Optimat® 2550 OR (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 250 ml/100 g) by the company World Minerals, and
- Perlite-MSZ12 isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 148.2 ml/100 g) by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
- a silicate that may especially be mentioned is aluminum silicate which is sold under the name of Kyowaad® 700PEL (oil uptake equal to 195 ml/100 g) by the company Kyowa Chemical Industry.
- a magnesium carbonate powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel® by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil uptake equal to 214 ml/100 g).
- a magnesium carbonate/magnesium hydroxide powder that may especially be mentioned is the product of m MgCO 3 -Mg(OH)2-nH2O which is sold under the name of Mg Tube (oil uptake equal to 250-310 ml/100 g) by the company Nittesu Mining.
- silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 by Dow Coming, the particles of which exhibit an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
- the (e) oil-absorbable particle may be of organic nature.
- the organic (e) oil-absorbable particle may comprise at least one material chosen from the group consisting of polyamide (in particular, Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer; silicones; and a mixture thereof.
- the above material may be crosslinked.
- the organic (e) oil-absorbable particle be selected from powders of acrylic polymers, especially of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, and silicone resins.
- the organic (e) oil-absorbable particle may, where appropriate, be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.
- This hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen, for example, from:
- stearic acid such as stearic acid
- perfluoroalkyl phosphates perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups;
- alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above is understood to mean a linear, branched, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 1 to 30, atoms, for example, from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
- the N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, and cocoyl group.
- the salts of these components may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts.
- the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.
- organic (e) oil-absorbable particle examples include the fillers described below:
- Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include porous polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate spheres sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 155 ml/100 g), vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under the name of KSP 100 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 142.7 ml/100 g) by the company Shin Etsu.
- ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate crosslinked copolymer powders especially those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 657 ml/100 g), and acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate/vinylidene chloride copolymer sold under the name Expancel 551DE40D42 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 1387 ml/100 g) by the company Akzo Novel.
- Polyamide powders that may be mentioned include nylon-6 powder, especially the product sold under the name Pomp610 by the company UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 202 ml/100 g).
- the amount of the (e) oil-absorbable particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (e) oil-absorbable particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (e) oil-absorbable particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one oil.
- a single type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.
- oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
- oil(s) those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.
- the (f) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
- the (f) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.
- plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oiljojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
- alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
- ester oils preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
- esters of monoalcohols Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched.
- ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
- isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
- alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
- cetyl palmitate isocetyl stearate
- 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate isononyl isononanoate
- isodecyl neopentanoate cetearyl isononanoate
- isostearyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate
- esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
- ester oils one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
- sugar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
- suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
- the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
- esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
- esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
- monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
- ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2- ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laur
- artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceiyl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri (caprate/ capiy late/linolenate) .
- capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceiyl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri (caprate/ capiy late/linolenate) .
- silicone oils examples include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
- the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid poly dimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
- PDMS liquid poly dimethylsiloxanes
- silicone oils may also be organomodified.
- organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
- Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
- cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
- cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane in particular is sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union
- Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.
- cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
- Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
- polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s; the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF
- CTFA dimethiconol
- silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.
- examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
- the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
- Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Cie lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraflins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
- hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
- linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
- the (f) oil may be chosen from triglyceride oils.
- the triglyceride oil comprises at least one triglyceride.
- the triglyceride may be referred to as a triacyl glycerol, and three fatty acids or two fatty acids and one non-fatty acid, and one glycerol are esterified in the triglyceride.
- the fatty acid may have, for example, 4 or more, 6 or more, 8 or more, or 10 or more carbon atoms, and 30 or fewer, 28 or fewer, 26 or fewer, or 24 or fewer carbon atoms.
- the fatty acid may have a different carbon chain length of, for example, from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
- the carbon chain may be linear or branched.
- the fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated.
- saturated fatty acid mention may be made of, for example, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, tetradocosanoic acid, hexadocosanoic acid, and octadocosanoic acid.
- unsaturated fatty acid mention may be made of, for example, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mead acid, eicosatrienoic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, adrenic acid, bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbond acid, clupanodonic acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, and nisinic acid.
- palmitoleic acid oleic acid, elai
- non-fatty acid may be dicarboxylic acids which may have, for example, 1 or more, 2 or more, 3 or more, or 4 or more carbon atoms, and 12 or fewer, 10 or fewer, 8 or fewer, or 6 or fewer carbon atoms.
- the non-fatty acid may have a different carbon chain length of, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
- the carbon chain may be linear or branched.
- the non-fatty acid preferably dicarboxylic acid, may be saturated or unsaturated.
- saturated non-fatty acid preferably saturated dicarboxylic acid
- unsaturated fatty acid mention may be made of, for example, maleic acid, fumaric acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid and 2-pentenoic acid.
- the triglyceride oil which may be suitable for the present invention is of plant origin. In other words, it is preferable that the triglyceride oil be selected from plant oils.
- the plant oil may be selected from plant-extracted oils, plant-extracted butters, and mixtures thereof.
- jojoba oil babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, canola oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam seed oil; Brazil nut oil, marula oil, maize oil, argan oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter oil, rapeseed oil, and copra oil.
- shea butter Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M.
- the triglyceride oil may be selected from caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride, shea butter, and a mixture thereof.
- the (f) oil be chosen from ester oils, triglyceride oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably chosen from ester oils, triglyceride oils and mixtures thereof.
- the (f) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
- the amount of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0. 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
- a single type of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, but two or more different types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.
- the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, particularly a nonionic surfactant.
- the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 5.0 to 10.0, preferably 6.0 to 9.0, and more preferably 7.0 to 8.0.
- HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
- the term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. If two or more (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.
- the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from mono, di, tri and more esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s).
- the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, and more preferably 2 glycerol units.
- the fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms.
- the fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 30 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 24 or fewer carbon atoms, and more preferably 20 or fewer carbon atoms.
- the fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have from 14 to 30, preferably from 16 to 24, and more preferably from 18 to 20 carbon atoms.
- the faty acid for the faty acid moiety of the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.
- the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 hexastearate (HLB: 4.0), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: about 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2
- the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: about 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG2 myristate (HLB: 10), PG2 isopalmitate (HLB: 9), PG4 oleate
- the amount of the (g) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (g) polyglyceryl fatyy acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the (g) polyglyeryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1 by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may farther comprise at least one polyol.
- a single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.
- polyol here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof.
- the derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxy allcyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
- the polyol may be a C2-C 12 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
- the polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol.
- the polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
- the polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.
- the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol (5 to 50 ethyleneoxide groups), and sugars such as sorbitol.
- the polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, such as from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other optional ingredients, known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as various common adjuvants, sequestering agents, preserving agents, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, niacinamide, fragrances, plant extracts, cationic polymers and so on.
- other optional ingredients known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as various common adjuvants, sequestering agents, preserving agents, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, niacinamide, fragrances, plant extracts, cationic polymers and so on.
- the composition according to the present invention may farther comprise at least one organic solvent.
- the organic solvent is preferably water miscible.
- the organic solvent there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; analogous products; and mixtures thereof.
- the organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1 % by weight or more, and more preferably 1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of silicone (s).
- the amount of silicone(s), such as organopolysiloxanes, in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention include no silicone.
- composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
- the method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
- the conventional method and means include a homogenizer, for example a turbine mixer.
- composition according to the present invention is in the form of an aqueous gel or an O/W dispersion or emulsion.
- composition according to the present invention does not include any oil
- the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an aqueous gel.
- composition according to the present invention includes (1) at least one oil, and if the composition according to the present invention includes dispersed fatty phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, wherein the dispersed fatty phases may be oil droplets, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an O/W dispersion or emulsion. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W gel emulsion or an O/W gel dispersion.
- the O/W architecture or structure which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present invention with the O/W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant feeling during use because of the feeling of immediate freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
- the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7.0, preferably less than 6.5, and more preferably less than 6.0.
- the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 3.0 or more, preferably 3.5 or more, and more preferably 4.0 or more.
- the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3.0 to less than 7.0, preferably from 3.5 to less than 6.5, and more preferably from 4.0 to less than 6.0.
- the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one acid other than the (b) organic acid or salt thereof.
- the pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
- composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin substance such as skin.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
- the cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up the surface of a keratin substance such as skin.
- the present invention may also relate to a use of (a) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in a composition comprising:
- (c) water wherein the amount of the (a) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, in order to provide the composition with a sherbet-like appearance and/or texture transformation (from the texture of a gel/cream to the texture of a liquid) during application and/or no sticky feeling after application.
- compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-3, shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows:
- compositions according to Examples 1 -6 and Comparative Examples 1 -3 were filled into a glass bottle and was held at a temperature of 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then investigated for the degree of change (aspect, odor and color), and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:
- compositions according to Examples 1-6 showed a sherbet- like appearance as well as texture transformation (from the texture of a gel/cream to the texture of a liquid) during application and no sticky feeling after application.
- compositions according to Examples 1-6 were also stable and were able to suppress the formation of noodles.
- Example 1 The comparison between Example 1 and Example 2 demonstrates that the addition of oil- absorbable particle (silica silylate) further improved non-sticky feeling to touch.
- oil- absorbable particle silicone silylate
- Comparative Example 1 shows that no use of any thickener could not increase the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1.
- the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was unstable and could not show any sherbet-like appearance, texture transformation, good non-sticky feeling.
- Comparative Example 2 shows that the use of non-neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer could not provide any sherbet-like appearance, good texture transformation, or non-sticky feeling. In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 could not suppress the formation of noodles.
- Comparative Example 3 shows that the use of a very small amount of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (0.3% by weight) was insufficient to increase the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 3 and to provide the composition with a sherbetlike appearance, good texture transformation, or good non-sticky feeling. In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was not stable.
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Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant les éléments suivants : (a) au moins un polymère d'acide poly(méth)acrylique neutralisé ; (b) au moins un acide organique ou un sel de celui-ci ; et (c) de l'eau, la quantité du polymère d'acide poly(méth)acrylique neutralisé (a) étant de 0,5% en poids ou plus, par rapport au poids total de la composition. La composition selon la présente invention peut fournir une apparence semblable à celle d'un sorbet ainsi qu'une transformation de texture (de la texture d'un gel/crème à la texture d'un liquide) pendant l'application et aucune sensation collante après application.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2023-185619 | 2023-10-30 | ||
| JP2023185619A JP2025074656A (ja) | 2023-10-30 | 2023-10-30 | 中和されたポリ(メタ)アクリル酸ポリマーを含む組成物 |
| FR2313780 | 2023-12-07 | ||
| FR2313780A FR3156320A3 (fr) | 2023-12-07 | 2023-12-07 | Composition comprenant un polymère d’acide poly(méth)acrylique neutralisé |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2025095140A1 true WO2025095140A1 (fr) | 2025-05-08 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/JP2024/080132 Pending WO2025095140A1 (fr) | 2023-10-30 | 2024-08-02 | Composition comprenant un polymère d'acide poly(méth)acrylique neutralisé |
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| Country | Link |
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| WO (1) | WO2025095140A1 (fr) |
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