WO2025078573A1 - Photoprotective cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Photoprotective cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2025078573A1 WO2025078573A1 PCT/EP2024/078647 EP2024078647W WO2025078573A1 WO 2025078573 A1 WO2025078573 A1 WO 2025078573A1 EP 2024078647 W EP2024078647 W EP 2024078647W WO 2025078573 A1 WO2025078573 A1 WO 2025078573A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/415—Aminophenols
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/591—Mixtures of compounds not provided for by any of the codes A61K2800/592 - A61K2800/596
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the field of photoprotective cosmetic compositions. More specifically, it relates to a novel photoprotective cosmetic composition in biphasic form comprising a hydroalcoholic phase comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene diaminosulfonic acid (TDSA) and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PB SA) and a lipophilic phase comprising at least three sunscreens chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone (EHT), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB).
- TDSA terephthalylidene diaminosulfonic acid
- PB SA phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid
- a lipophilic phase comprising at least three sunscreens chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone (EHT), bis-eth
- the skin is sensitive to solar radiation which can cause a simple sunburn or erythema, as well as more or less severe burns which can lead to irreversible damage such as loss of elasticity of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging, dermatoses, or even skin cancers.
- solar radiation can cause a simple sunburn or erythema, as well as more or less severe burns which can lead to irreversible damage such as loss of elasticity of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging, dermatoses, or even skin cancers.
- the sun's radiation to the skin particularly the skin of the face, it appears very important to be effectively protected from harmful solar radiation.
- Children and adolescents are a population that should be particularly protected, especially since they often do not regularly apply sunscreen to their face, or do not apply it at all.
- UVA Ultra-Violet type A
- UVB Ultra-Violet type B
- Biphasic photoprotective cosmetic compositions consist of a hydrophilic phase and a lipophilic phase, each phase being able to comprise miscible sunscreens.
- photoprotective emulsions are moisturizing because they contain an aqueous phase, and offer good protection thanks to the presence of lipophilic filters in the fatty phase and possibly hydrophilic filters in the aqueous phase.
- Document WO2021/102113 discloses a photoprotective cosmetic composition comprising five sunscreens that can be formulated in a biphasic formulation.
- the five filters are disclosed in separate lists and include three UVB filters, one UVA filter and one broad-spectrum UVA + UVB filter. It should be noted that this biphasic composition comprises silicone. However, the presence of this compound does not allow environmental standards to be met.
- Some photoprotective biphasic emulsions have other drawbacks, for example they contain surfactants, or even gelling agents, and can leave white marks on the skin. Furthermore, biphasic emulsions often have a shiny and/or sticky effect on the skin which may be unsuitable, particularly on facial skin.
- the problem that the invention seeks to solve is that of developing a new two-phase photoprotective cosmetic composition that is easy to apply, stable and effective in providing long-lasting protection against UVA and UVB rays.
- a second problem that the invention seeks to solve is to develop a photoprotective cosmetic composition having an SPF of at least 30 without using excessive quantities of sunscreens.
- a third problem that the invention seeks to solve is to develop a photoprotective cosmetic composition having a “second skin” effect without a shiny and/or sticky appearance and without an unpleasant odor.
- a fourth problem that the invention seeks to solve is to develop a photoprotective cosmetic composition that can be applied by vaporization/spray, for multi-daily application to the face.
- a photoprotective cosmetic composition consisting of a two-phase hydroalcoholic and lipophilic formulation comprising in association at least five specific sunscreens, exhibited, against all expectations, both a broad filtering power in the ultraviolet in the wavelength range between 280 nm and 400 nm, very good stability and easy application to the skin.
- the present invention relates to a photoprotective cosmetic composition in two-phase form comprising: a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and a lipophilic phase B comprising at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
- a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid
- a lipophilic phase B comprising at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and
- the invention relates to a photoprotective cosmetic composition in two-phase form comprising: a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and a lipophilic phase B comprising at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, the weight ratio between the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B being greater than or equal to 1.
- the total content of UV filters present in the hydroalcoholic phase A ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
- the total content of UV filters present in the lipophilic phase B ranges from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
- the hydroalcoholic phase A comprises between 3% and 5% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and between 0.5% and 2% by weight of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the lipophilic phase B comprises from 3 to 5% by weight of ethyl hexyl triazone, from 2 to 3% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and from 1 to 3% by weight of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention comprises: a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising:
- ⁇ phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight; and a lipophilic phase B comprising:
- the lipophilic phase B comprises at least one fatty substance, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and mixtures thereof.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition further comprises at least one active agent preferably chosen from vitamins, plant extracts, moisturizing agents and mixtures thereof.
- the active agent may be present in the hydroalcoholic phase A and/or the lipophilic phase B.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition further comprises at least one vitamin, preferably chosen from vitamin B 3 (niacinamide), vitamin C, vitamin E (tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate) and mixtures thereof.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition further comprises at least one plant extract, preferably chosen from Buddleja officinalis flower extract, Aloe vera extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acerola extract, Magnolia officinalis extract, ginger extract and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from Buddleja officinalis flower extract, Aloe vera extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acerola extract and mixtures thereof.
- the plant extract may be present in the hydroalcoholic phase A and/or the lipophilic phase B.
- the weight ratio between the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B is greater than or equal to 1, preferably this weight ratio ranges from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 3 and more preferably from 1 to 2.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of silicone.
- the present invention also relates to the use of the photoprotective cosmetic composition in the treatment of the skin against UV radiation, in particular against solar radiation.
- composition in biphasic form also called biphasic formulation, relates to a composition comprising two phases, one lipophilic and the other hydroalcoholic, visually distinct from each other.
- This composition is distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest and at room temperature, the two phases are visually distinct instead of being emulsified in each other.
- the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, whereas in emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore multiple, these interfaces generally being stabilized by emulsifying surfactants and/or emulsifying polymers.
- phase shift The use of a biphasic composition requires prior stirring in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion. This must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that at rest, the two phases separate relatively quickly and return to their initial state, between 30 seconds and 10 minutes, preferably between 3 minutes and 8 minutes, and even more preferably between 4 minutes and 6 minutes, this phenomenon being better known under the term “phase shift”.
- two visually distinct phases means that in a composition one can distinguish with the naked eye without the aid of a magnifying tool the two phases, in particular hydroalcoholic and lipophilic, which are in direct contact with each other.
- stable composition refers to the fact that the composition remains in two-phase form, after stirring, with a stable dispersion between the two phases, stable during its storage, without precipitation of the filters included in the two phases. More particularly, after 1 month, preferably after 2 months, of storage at a temperature ranging from 4 to 45°C, the stable composition shows no macroscopic change in color, viscosity, or pH variation, as well as no microscopic variation in appearance.
- Free from refers to a composition which does not contain (0% by weight) said substance or whose content of said substance is strictly less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- From X to Y means the range of values between X and Y, the limits X and Y being included in said range.
- composition before the name of a substance, refers to the mass percentage of this substance in the composition.
- surfactant means an amphiphilic compound which, by this particular structure, makes it possible to lower the free energy of interfaces, for example oil/water or air/water interfaces.
- a surfactant is a compound which modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactants facilitate the formation of drops or bubbles by reducing the surface tension.
- SPF corresponds to the sun protection factor (SPF) which makes it possible to determine the level of sun protection of a composition.
- the SPF is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B.L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989).
- the SPF of the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 30, more preferably greater than or equal to 40, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 45.
- water-soluble UV filter corresponds to any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV-A and/or UV-B radiation which can be completely dissolved in a liquid aqueous phase, and in particular in the hydroalcoholic phase A of the invention.
- liposoluble UV filter corresponds to any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV-A and/or UV-B radiation which can be completely dissolved in a liquid fatty phase, and in particular in the lipophilic phase B of the invention.
- the present invention relates to a photoprotective cosmetic composition in two-phase form comprising: a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and a lipophilic phase B comprising at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
- a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid
- a lipophilic phase B comprising at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and
- a photoprotective cosmetic composition which: has a very good sun protection index (SPF factor>30) while complying with the regulatory (EU 1223/2009) and environmental framework, remains stable over time and also has good stability on the skin during and after application, allows easy and frequent application with good spreadability, can be applied in spray form to the face, even over makeup or foundation, frequently, without the need to be spread, has a light texture, a good feel and is considered non-sticky and non-greasy/shiny on the skin, can also protect against blue light and atmospheric pollution.
- Photoprotective cosmetic composition has a very good sun protection index (SPF factor>30) while complying with the regulatory (EU 1223/2009) and environmental framework, remains stable over time and also has good stability on the skin during and after application, allows easy and frequent application with good spreadability, can be applied in spray form to the face, even over makeup or foundation, frequently, without the need to be spread, has a light texture, a good feel and is considered non-sticky and non-greasy/shiny on the skin, can also
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the combination of at least five UV filters, also called sun filters, chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
- UV filters also called sun filters
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition is in two-phase form and comprises a hydroalcoholic phase A and a lipophilic phase B.
- the hydroalcoholic phase A comprises the combination of at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA) and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA).
- the lipophilic phase B comprises the combination of at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone (EHT), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB).
- EHT ethyl hexyl triazone
- BEMT bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
- DHHB diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
- hydroalcoholic phase A comprising the combination of at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and
- a lipophilic phase B comprising the combination of at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
- Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid is a water-soluble UV-A filter, which can be marketed in particular under the name Ecam H2OUV by the company IES Ingredients.
- the content of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
- the content of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid preferably ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
- Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is a water-soluble UV-B filter, which can be marketed in particular under the name Parsol HS by the company IES Ingredients.
- the content of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
- the content of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
- EHT Ethyl hexyl triazone
- the content of ethyl hexyl triazone preferably ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
- the content of ethyl hexyl triazone preferably ranges from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better still from 10 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
- Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is a fat-soluble UV-A filter, which can in particular be marketed under the name Parsol Shield by the company IES Ingredients.
- the content of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
- the content of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine preferably ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 6 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
- DHHB Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
- Uvinul A plus Granular or Parsol DHHB by the companies AMI Ingredients or IES Ingredients.
- the content of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
- the content of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate preferably ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one additional UV filter, different from the five UV filters defined above, chosen from UV-A filters, UV-B filters and their mixtures.
- the hydroalcoholic phase A and/or the lipophilic phase B may optionally further comprise at least one additional UV filter, different from the five UV filters defined above, chosen from UV-A filters, UV-B filters and their mixtures.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHC). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, that is to say that it does not comprise Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (0% by weight).
- EHC Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Octocrylene (OCR). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Octocrylene, that is to say that it does not comprise Octocrylene (0% by weight).
- OCR Octocrylene
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane (BMDBM). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane, that is to say that it does not comprise Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane (0% by weight).
- BDBM Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Benzophenone-3. More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Benzophenone-3, that is to say that it does not comprise Benzophenone-3 (0% by weight).
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Ethylhexyl Salicylate (EHS). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Ethylhexyl Salicylate, that is to say that it does not comprise Ethylhexyl Salicylate (0% by weight).
- EHS Ethylhexyl Salicylate
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Homosalate (HMS). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Homosalate, that is to say that it does not comprise Homosalate (0% by weight).
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, that is to say that it does not comprise Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (0% by weight).
- MBT Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the present invention does not comprise UV filters other than the five UV filters defined above.
- the composition only comprises the combination of the five UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
- the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B do not contain any UV filters other than those defined above.
- the total content of UV filters present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention preferably ranges from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 25% by weight, and better still from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- total content of UV filters is meant the sum of the content of the at least five UV filters and the content of any additional UV filters, different from the at least five UV filters defined above.
- the content of UV filters, present in the hydroalcoholic phase A of the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
- the content of UV filters, present in the lipophilic phase B of the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, and better still from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
- hydroalcoholic phase is meant a phase comprising water and at least one organic solvent, in particular at least one alcohol.
- the at least one organic solvent is preferably chosen from C1 to C4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol (or propanediol), butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.
- the total water content present in the hydroalcoholic phase A of the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 25 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight, and better still from 35 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
- the total content of organic solvent(s), in particular alcohol(s), present in the hydroalcoholic phase A of the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 20 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 45% by weight, and better still from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
- the lipophilic phase B may optionally further comprise at least one fatty substance.
- fatty substance is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
- the at least one fatty substance that can be used according to the present invention is neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.
- the at least one fatty substance is preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and their mixtures, and more preferably among esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and their mixtures.
- oil is meant any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
- the vegetable oils are preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octonaic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, rice, pracaxi oils, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids (such as those sold under the names Cetiol CC®, Citrofol AI or DUBDIS by the company BASF and DUBOIS) and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty body is not castor oil.
- the composition of the invention does not comprise castor oil.
- the alcohols, esters and fatty acids preferably have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4).
- the fatty alcohols that can be used according to the present invention are preferably liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
- the fatty alcohols according to the invention are preferably branched and/or unsaturated, and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, and they are non-oxyalkylenated (such as non-ethoxylated) and non-glycerolated.
- the fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R-OH, in which R preferably denotes a branched C12 to C24 alkyl or C12 to C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxy group.
- fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that can be used according to the present invention are preferably different from the triglycerides mentioned above.
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C26 aliphatic mono or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C26 aliphatic mono or poly alcohols the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
- diethyl sebacate diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; trilac
- the at least one fatty substance is chosen from esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, rice oil, pracaxi oil and mixtures thereof.
- the total content of fatty substances, when they are present in the lipophilic phase B of the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 40 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 75% by weight, and better still from 55 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of silicone. More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of silicone, that is to say that it does not comprise silicone (0% by weight).
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of surfactants. More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of surfactant, that is to say that it does not comprise any surfactant (0% by weight).
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one active agent.
- the hydroalcoholic phase A and/or the lipophilic phase B may optionally further comprise at least one active agent.
- the at least one active agent usable according to the present invention can be chosen from vitamins, plant extracts, moisturizing agents and their mixtures.
- the vitamins that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from vitamin B3, vitamin C, vitamin E and mixtures thereof.
- the total content of vitamin(s), when present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the plant extracts that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from Buddleja officinalis flower extract, Aloe vera extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acerola extract, Magnolia officinalis extract, ginger extract and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from Buddleja officinalis flower extract, Aloe vera extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acerola extract and mixtures thereof.
- plant extract is meant according to the present invention, all or part of the plant including the roots, seeds, pods, leaves and flowers.
- the Buddleja officinalis flower extract is rich in phenylpropanoids (>11.5% dry matter), the purified fraction (without caffeic acid) of the Buddleja officinalis flowers being very concentrated in verbascoside and echinacoside.
- the Buddleja officinalis flower extract is the SOLIBERINE® product from Greentech.
- the Buddleja officinalis flower extract may be a composition comprising propanediol as a solvent.
- the use of a Buddleja officinalis flower extract has the advantage of reducing the quantity of free radicals.
- the Aloe vera extract is an extract of Aloe Barbadensis leaves, for example an Aloe vera extract supplied by Aloecorp, Inc.
- the use of an Aloe Barbadensis extract has the advantage of allowing excellent hydration of the skin, of combating inflammation and skin dryness, while leaving the skin smooth and soft.
- the Acerola extract is a Malpighia Glabra fruit extract.
- the Acerola extract is in the form of a composition comprising a Malpighia Glabra fruit extract and glycerin, in particular a composition comprising 5% by weight of Malpighia Glabra fruit extract and 95% glycerin, such as the composition COSME-PHYTAMITM ACREOLA from Alban Muller.
- Acerola extract is a powerful antioxidant, and has the advantage of brightening the complexion and reducing the visible signs of aging, thus revitalizing stressed and tired skin.
- the total content of plant extract(s), when present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additional compounds, different from the compounds of the invention, preferably chosen from perfumes, colorants, preservatives, opacifying agents, solubilizing agents and mixtures thereof.
- the colorants may comprise carotenoid pigments such as lycopene and xanthophyll, for example a composition comprising lycopene and xanthophyll in rice oil (oryza sativa bran oil) may be used, such as the composition MAKIGREEN BLUE from Daito Kasei.
- the preservative may be potassium sorbate.
- the total content of additional compounds advantageously varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is understood that those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition of these possible compounds.
- the content of the hydroalcoholic phase A, present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition preferably ranges from 50 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 55 to 75% by weight, and better still from 60 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the content of the lipophilic phase B, present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition preferably ranges from 20 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 45% by weight, and better still from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the weight ratio between the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B is preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably this weight ratio ranges from 1 to 6, better still from 1 to 3 and better still from 1 to 2.
- the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 5.8 and 7.5, preferably between 6.5 and 7.5.
- the composition of the invention is preferably applied in the form of a spray or by vaporization.
- the particle size of the droplets obtained from vaporization of the composition according to the invention 10 cm from the skin is between D(10) between 18 pm and 23 pm, preferably 21.26 pm; D(50) between 38 pm and 45 pm, preferably 43.01 pm; D(90) between 70 pm and 90 pm, better still between 70 pm and 75 pm, preferably 73.35 pm.
- the lipophilic phase B of the composition of the invention comprises from 3 to 5% by weight of ethyl hexyl triazone, from 2 to 3% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and from 1 to 3% by weight of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
- the hydroalcoholic phase A of the composition comprises between 3% and 5% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and between 0.5% and 2% by weight of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention in two-phase form preferably comprises: a. a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising:
- - terephthalylidene die amphora-sulfonic acid in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, and better still from 3 to 5% by weight, and
- a lipophilic phase B comprising:
- - ethyl hexyl triazone in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, and better still from 3 to 5% by weight,
- the present invention also relates to the use of the photoprotective cosmetic composition for protecting human skin against UV radiation, and in particular solar radiation.
- the composition according to the invention is intended primarily for daily use, applied in the morning to the face in the form of a spray, for protection against UV-A and UV-B rays, blue light and atmospheric pollution. It is more particularly suitable for young children, adolescents and adults, particularly women, who wear makeup. Before application, the composition according to the invention must be shaken vigorously to obtain homogeneous and optimal spraying.
- the composition according to the invention provides effective sun protection greater than or equal to SPF20 UVA protection, preferably SPF30 UVA protection, more preferably SPF40 UVA protection and more preferably SPF45 UVA protection.
- SPF20 UVA protection preferably SPF30 UVA protection
- SPF40 UVA protection more preferably SPF45 UVA protection.
- the UVA/SPF ratio of the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the invention has in vitro a value preferably between 0.33 and 0.5, more particularly a value of 0.46.
- the composition according to the invention is suitable for being sprayed onto the skin.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition easily in the morning, after vigorous shaking, by simply spraying it onto the face, while closing the eyes. Applications every two hours are recommended to maintain optimal protection outdoors. A single application in the morning is sufficient if outdoor activity and/or solar radiation is low.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the invention complies with the regulatory (EU 1223/2009) and environmental framework in the sense that it is compliant for marketing on the market in Europe and beyond.
- the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B are first produced.
- Each composition is then introduced into a static mixer, namely a tube inside which there is a three-dimensional structure promoting the appearance of vortices when a fluid passes through.
- the phases are then dispersed by a static device, i.e. a device which is not not driven by a rotating system, thus avoiding a dispersion of the lipophilic phase B in the hydroalcoholic phase A.
- Hydroalcoholic phase A can be prepared by first mixing the UV filters at a temperature of 50°C. The resulting solution is then gradually cooled to room temperature. Any additional compounds can be added during this cooling step. The final solution is then left to stand for 24 hours and then filtered to obtain hydroalcoholic phase A.
- Lipophilic phase B can in particular be prepared by first mixing the UV filters at a temperature greater than or equal to 75°C. The solution thus obtained is allowed to cool to a temperature below 40°C before the possible addition, with stirring, of additional compounds. The final solution is then allowed to cool to room temperature to obtain lipophilic phase B.
- the two-phase composition C is prepared according to the following protocol: -
- the hydroalcoholic phase A is prepared:
- phase A4 constituting the hydroalcoholic phase A.
- Solution B2 is cooled to 40°C, then the tocopherol, colorants, and tocopheryl acetate are added.
- Solution B3 is allowed to cool gradually in a cold water bath without ice cubes, to room temperature. This gives the lipophilic phase B.
- hydroalcoholic A and lipophilic B phases thus obtained are then mixed according to a weight ratio A/B of 1.9.
- the photoprotective cosmetic composition C thus obtained is then stored at a temperature above 15°C.
- composition of the invention was conducted under different temperatures at 4°C, 25°C and 40°C for 3 months.
- the characteristics of the product remained substantially identical, in particular color, pH, SPF and UVA performance.
- the composition of the invention therefore remains stable over time.
- composition C of Example 1 was compared with two other comparative compositions, one of which is a 100% liposoluble DI composition (Table 3), and the other is a biphasic composition D2 (Table 4).
- the ingredients of comparative compositions DI and D2 are mentioned in Tables 3 and 4 below (the percentages being expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them).
- the biphasic composition C of Example 1 was introduced into a bottle equipped with a pump in order to obtain a spray. Said spray was then tested on ten female and male volunteers aged 25 to 65. Before application, the composition was shaken vigorously, then applied to the forearm by spraying 15 cm from the arm.
- Results The average of the results obtained, for four measurements carried out, for each of the criteria is expressed in table 6 below.
- composition in spray form according to the invention presents on the skin during application a very good freshness and a very good uniformity, without coloring the skin. After two minutes of application, it does not present any shine or greasy feel, is not sticky and gives a second skin sensation.
- Example 4 Evaluation of the particle size of the droplets obtained from the spray according to the invention
- composition of the invention complies with the conditions of the Cosmetic Regulation EC 1223/2009 in force.
- the composition is therefore compliant from a regulatory point of view and respects the integrity of the users' skin.
- the product is therefore compliant with its use for human health.
- Other properties such as covering the spectrum in visible light have shown significant effectiveness.
- Example 5 Comparative tests of stability, SPE - UVA performance, sensoriality and sprayability
- the biphasic composition C according to the invention of example 1 was compared to 5 biphasic compositions in which the TDSA (UVA) filter is absent, in order to show the importance of this particular filter on the properties of the composition of the invention.
- the following properties were evaluated: stability of the formula, SPF and UVA performance, impact on sensoriality, and impact on sprayability.
- composition C (example 1), according to the invention
- composition E1 removal of the 4% of TDSA from composition C, replaced by 4% of water
- composition E2 removal of the 4% of TDSA from composition C, replaced by 4% distributed over the 3 UV filters of the lipophilic phase
- composition E3 removal of the 4% of TDSA from composition C, replaced by 4% distributed over the 3 UV filters of the lipophilic phase and increase in emollients (in the lipophilic phase) proportionally to the increase in filters to better solubilize them
- composition E4 removal of the 4% of TDSA (UVA filter) from composition C, replaced by 4% of DHHB alone (UVA filter of the lipophilic phase)
- composition E5 removal of 4% TDSA (UVA filter) from composition C, replaced by 4% DHHB alone (UVA filter of the lipophilic phase) increase in emollients (in the lipophilic phase) proportionally to the increase
- compositions E1-E5 were prepared according to the same procedure as that described in Example 1 for composition C.
- the final compositions of C and LIES are detailed in Table 8, expressed as mass percentages relative to the total mass of the composition.
- composition according to the invention remained stable at room temperature and at +4°C during the 14 days of the test.
- compositions E1-E5 systematic crystallization was observed in the hydroalcoholic phase A comprising the PBSA filter, in the absence of TDSA.
- a disorder of the lipophilic phase was systematically observed in the biphasic compositions E1-E5.
- the sun protection index (SPF) and UVA were determined for all compositions, as reported in Table 9. The measurements were carried out according to the ISO24443 method adapted to in vitro SPF, on a Labsphere US-2000S (UV spectrophotometer).
- compositions E4 and E5 allow to obtain a better UVA value.
- compositions C and E1-E5 were tested according to the method of Example 3.
- composition C shows the best results and composition El gives similar results, while compositions E2-E5 give less good results.
- compositions E2-E5 can be explained by the increase in the proportion of lipophilic phase, which increases from 34.7% in compositions C and E1 to 50.4% in compositions E3 and E5.
- compositions C and E1-E5 were tested comparatively in the same 50mL pump bottle model. After shaking the bottle, the compositions were sprayed in 5 sprays from the bottle positioned vertically approximately 15-20 cm from a vertical flat surface.
- composition C shows the best results and composition E1 gives similar results, while compositions E2-E5 give less good results.
- compositions E2-E5 in sprayability can be explained by the increase in the proportion of lipophilic phase.
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Abstract
Description
DESCRIPTION DESCRIPTION
TITRE : COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE PHOTOPROTECTRICE TITLE: PHOTOPROTECTIVE COSMETIC COMPOSITION
DOMAINE DE L’INVENTION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] La présente invention concerne le domaine des compositions cosmétiques photoprotectrices. Plus spécifiquement, elle concerne une nouvelle composition cosmétique photoprotectrice sous forme biphasique comprenant une phase hydroalcoolique comprenant au moins deux filtres UV choisis parmi l’acide téréphthalylidène die amphore- sulfonique (TDSA) et l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique (PB SA) et une phase lipophile comprenant au moins trois filtres solaires choisis parmi l’éthyl hexyl triazone (EHT), le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine (BEMT) et le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB). [0001] The present invention relates to the field of photoprotective cosmetic compositions. More specifically, it relates to a novel photoprotective cosmetic composition in biphasic form comprising a hydroalcoholic phase comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene diaminosulfonic acid (TDSA) and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PB SA) and a lipophilic phase comprising at least three sunscreens chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone (EHT), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB).
ÉTAT DE LA TECHNIQUE STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Chez l’homme, la peau est sensible aux radiations solaires qui peuvent provoquer un banal coup de soleil ou érythème, comme également des brûlures plus ou moins accentuées pouvant aller jusqu’à des dommages irréversibles tels que la perte d’élasticité de la peau, l’apparition de rides conduisant à un vieillissement prématuré, des dermatoses, voire des cancers cutanés. Dans le cadre de la prévention des dommages exercés par le rayonnement du soleil sur la peau, notamment la peau du visage, il apparaît très important d’être protégé efficacement des rayonnements solaires néfastes. Les enfants et les adolescents sont une population qu’il convient de protéger particulièrement, d’autant que ces derniers ne sont souvent pas réguliers pour appliquer une protection solaire sur leur visage, voire n’en n’appliquent pas. [0002] In humans, the skin is sensitive to solar radiation which can cause a simple sunburn or erythema, as well as more or less severe burns which can lead to irreversible damage such as loss of elasticity of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging, dermatoses, or even skin cancers. In the context of preventing damage caused by the sun's radiation to the skin, particularly the skin of the face, it appears very important to be effectively protected from harmful solar radiation. Children and adolescents are a population that should be particularly protected, especially since they often do not regularly apply sunscreen to their face, or do not apply it at all.
[0003] Il est bien connu que la partie la plus dangereuse du rayonnement solaire est constituée par les radiations ultraviolettes de longueurs d’ondes comprises entre 280 nm et 400 nm, correspondant aux UVA (Ultra-Violet de type A) de longueur d’onde comprise entre 320 nm et 400 nm et aux UVB (Ultra-Violet de type B) de longueur d’onde comprise entre 280 nm et 320 nm. Les filtres UV organiques se divisent en deux classes, les filtres- hydrophiles et les filtres lipophiles. Ces filtres sont incorporés dans différents types de formulations photoprotectrices comme les crèmes, les huiles, les émulsions biphasiques. [0003] It is well known that the most dangerous part of solar radiation is constituted by ultraviolet radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm, corresponding to UVA (Ultra-Violet type A) with wavelengths between 320 nm and 400 nm and UVB (Ultra-Violet type B) with wavelengths between between 280 nm and 320 nm. Organic UV filters are divided into two classes: hydrophilic filters and lipophilic filters. These filters are incorporated into different types of photoprotective formulations such as creams, oils, and biphasic emulsions.
[0004] Les compositions cosmétiques photoprotectrices biphasiques sont constituées d’une phase hydrophile et d’une phase lipophile, chaque phase pouvant comprendre des filtres solaires miscibles. Ainsi, les émulsions photoprotectrices sont hydratantes car elles contiennent une phase aqueuse, et offrent une bonne protection grâce à la présence de filtres lipophiles dans la phase grasse et éventuellement, des filtres hydrophiles dans la phase aqueuse. [0004] Biphasic photoprotective cosmetic compositions consist of a hydrophilic phase and a lipophilic phase, each phase being able to comprise miscible sunscreens. Thus, photoprotective emulsions are moisturizing because they contain an aqueous phase, and offer good protection thanks to the presence of lipophilic filters in the fatty phase and possibly hydrophilic filters in the aqueous phase.
[0005] On connaît du document W02021/102113 une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice comprenant cinq filtres solaires pouvant être formulés dans une formulation biphasique. Les cinq filtres sont divulgués dans des listes séparées et comprennent trois filtres UVB, un filtre UVA et un filtre UVA + UVB à large spectre de protection. Il est à noter que cette composition biphasique comprend du silicone. Or, la présence de ce composé ne permet pas de respecter les normes environnementales. [0005] Document WO2021/102113 discloses a photoprotective cosmetic composition comprising five sunscreens that can be formulated in a biphasic formulation. The five filters are disclosed in separate lists and include three UVB filters, one UVA filter and one broad-spectrum UVA + UVB filter. It should be noted that this biphasic composition comprises silicone. However, the presence of this compound does not allow environmental standards to be met.
[0006] Certaines émulsions biphasiques photoprotectrices présentent d’autres inconvénients, par exemple elles contiennent des tensioactifs, voire des gélifiants, et peuvent laisser des traces blanches sur la peau. Par ailleurs, les émulsions biphasiques présentent souvent sur la peau un effet brillant et/ou collant qui peut s’avérer inadapté, notamment sur la peau du visage. [0006] Some photoprotective biphasic emulsions have other drawbacks, for example they contain surfactants, or even gelling agents, and can leave white marks on the skin. Furthermore, biphasic emulsions often have a shiny and/or sticky effect on the skin which may be unsuitable, particularly on facial skin.
[0007] Le problème que se propose de résoudre l’invention est celui de mettre au point une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice biphasique nouvelle qui soit d’application facile, stable et efficace pour protéger durablement des rayons UVA et UVB. [0007] The problem that the invention seeks to solve is that of developing a new two-phase photoprotective cosmetic composition that is easy to apply, stable and effective in providing long-lasting protection against UVA and UVB rays.
[0008] Un second problème que se propose de résoudre F invention est de mettre au point une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice présentant un SPF d’au moins 30 sans utiliser des quantités excessives de filtres solaires. [0009] Un troisième problème que se propose de résoudre l’invention est de mettre au point une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice présentant un effet « seconde peau » sans un aspect brillant et/ou collant et sans odeur désagréable. [0008] A second problem that the invention seeks to solve is to develop a photoprotective cosmetic composition having an SPF of at least 30 without using excessive quantities of sunscreens. [0009] A third problem that the invention seeks to solve is to develop a photoprotective cosmetic composition having a “second skin” effect without a shiny and/or sticky appearance and without an unpleasant odor.
[0010] Un quatrième problème que se propose de résoudre l’invention est de mettre au point une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice qui puisse être appliquée par vaporisation/en spray, pour une application multi-quotidienne sur le visage. [0010] A fourth problem that the invention seeks to solve is to develop a photoprotective cosmetic composition that can be applied by vaporization/spray, for multi-daily application to the face.
[0011] La Demanderesse a découvert, de manière surprenante, qu’une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice, constituée d’une formulation biphasique hydroalcoolique et lipophile comprenant en association au moins cinq filtres solaires déterminés, présentait contre toute attente à la fois un large pouvoir filtrant dans l’ultraviolet dans la gamme de longueur d’ondes comprise entre 280 nm et 400 nm, une très bonne stabilité et une application facile sur la peau. [0011] The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that a photoprotective cosmetic composition, consisting of a two-phase hydroalcoholic and lipophilic formulation comprising in association at least five specific sunscreens, exhibited, against all expectations, both a broad filtering power in the ultraviolet in the wavelength range between 280 nm and 400 nm, very good stability and easy application to the skin.
RÉSUMÉ SUMMARY
[0012] La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice sous forme biphasique comprenant : une phase hydroalcoolique A comprenant au moins deux filtres UV choisis parmi l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique, et l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, et une phase lipophile B comprenant au moins trois filtres UV choisis parmi l’éthyl hexyl triazone, le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, et le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. [0012] The present invention relates to a photoprotective cosmetic composition in two-phase form comprising: a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and a lipophilic phase B comprising at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
[0013] En particulier, l’invention concerne une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice sous forme biphasique comprenant : une phase hydroalcoolique A comprenant au moins deux filtres UV choisis parmi l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique, et l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, et une phase lipophile B comprenant au moins trois filtres UV choisis parmi l’éthyl hexyl triazone, le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, et le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, le rapport pondéral entre la phase hydroalcoolique A et la phase lipophile B étant supérieur ou égal à 1. [0013] In particular, the invention relates to a photoprotective cosmetic composition in two-phase form comprising: a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and a lipophilic phase B comprising at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, the weight ratio between the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B being greater than or equal to 1.
[0014] Avantageusement, la teneur totale des filtres UV présents dans la phase hydroalcoolique A va de 0,5 à 20% en poids, de préférence de 1 à 15% en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 1 à 10% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase hydroalcoolique A. [0014] Advantageously, the total content of UV filters present in the hydroalcoholic phase A ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
[0015] Avantageusement, la teneur totale des filtres UV présents dans la phase lipophile B va de 5 à 40% en poids, de préférence de 10 à 35% en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 20 à 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase lipophile B. [0015] Advantageously, the total content of UV filters present in the lipophilic phase B ranges from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
[0016] Avantageusement, la phase hydroalcoolique A comprend entre 3% et 5% en poids d’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique et entre 0,5% et 2% en poids d’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, par rapport au poids total de la composition. [0016] Advantageously, the hydroalcoholic phase A comprises between 3% and 5% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and between 0.5% and 2% by weight of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] Avantageusement, la phase lipophile B comprend de 3 à 5% en poids d’éthyl hexyl triazone, de 2 à 3% en poids de bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine et de 1 à 3% en poids de diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, par rapport au poids total de la composition. [0017] Advantageously, the lipophilic phase B comprises from 3 to 5% by weight of ethyl hexyl triazone, from 2 to 3% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and from 1 to 3% by weight of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] Avantageusement, la composition selon l’invention comprend : une phase hydro alcoolique A comprenant : [0018] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises: a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising:
■ de l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique, dans une teneur allant de 3 à 5% en poids, et ■ terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, in a content ranging from 3 to 5% by weight, and
■ de l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 2% en poids ; et une phase lipophile B comprenant : ■ phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight; and a lipophilic phase B comprising:
■ de l’éthyl hexyl triazone, dans une teneur allant de 3 à 5% en poids,■ ethyl hexyl triazone, in a content ranging from 3 to 5% by weight,
■ du bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, dans une teneur allant de 2 à 3% en poids, et ■ bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, in a content ranging from 2 to 3% by weight, and
■ du diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, dans une teneur allant de 1 à 3% en poids ; les pourcentages étant exprimés en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. ■ diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, in a content ranging from 1 to 3% by weight; the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] Avantageusement, la phase lipophile B comprend au moins un corps gras, de préférence choisi parmi les alcools gras, les acides gras, les esters d’acides et/ou d’alcools gras, les huiles végétales et leurs mélanges, plus préférentiellement choisi parmi les esters d’acides et/ou d’alcools gras, les huiles végétales et leurs mélanges. [0019] Advantageously, the lipophilic phase B comprises at least one fatty substance, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and mixtures thereof.
[0020] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice comprend en outre au moins un agent actif de préférence choisi parmi les vitamines, les extraits de plantes, les agents hydratants et leurs mélanges. L’agent actif peut être présent dans la phase hydroalcoolique A et/ou la phase lipophile B. [0020] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition further comprises at least one active agent preferably chosen from vitamins, plant extracts, moisturizing agents and mixtures thereof. The active agent may be present in the hydroalcoholic phase A and/or the lipophilic phase B.
[0021] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice comprend en outre au moins une vitamine, de préférence choisie parmi la vitamine B 3 (niacinamide), la vitamine C, la vitamine E (tocophérol, acétate de tocophéryle) et leurs mélanges. [0021] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition further comprises at least one vitamin, preferably chosen from vitamin B 3 (niacinamide), vitamin C, vitamin E (tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate) and mixtures thereof.
[0022] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice comprend en outre au moins un extrait de plantes, de préférence choisi parmi l’extrait de fleur de Buddleja officinalis, l’extrait d’ Aloe vera, l’extrait de feuille d’Aloe barbadensis, l’extrait d’Acerola, l’extrait de Magnolia officinalis, l’extrait de gingembre et leurs mélanges, et plus préférentiellement parmi l’extrait de fleur de Buddleja officinalis, l’extrait d’Aloe vera, l’extrait de feuille d’Aloe barbadensis, l’extrait d’Acerola et leurs mélanges. L’extrait de plante peut être présent dans la phase hydro alcoolique A et/ou la phase lipophile B. [0022] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition further comprises at least one plant extract, preferably chosen from Buddleja officinalis flower extract, Aloe vera extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acerola extract, Magnolia officinalis extract, ginger extract and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from Buddleja officinalis flower extract, Aloe vera extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acerola extract and mixtures thereof. The plant extract may be present in the hydroalcoholic phase A and/or the lipophilic phase B.
[0023] Avantageusement, le rapport pondéral entre la phase hydro alcoolique A et la phase lipophile B est supérieur ou égal à 1, de préférence ce rapport pondéral va de 1 à 6, préférentiellement de 1 à 3 et plus préférentiellement de 1 à 2. [0023] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B is greater than or equal to 1, preferably this weight ratio ranges from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 3 and more preferably from 1 to 2.
[0024] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte de silicone. [0025] La présente invention porte également sur l’utilisation de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice dans le traitement de la peau contre le rayonnement UV, en particulier contre le rayonnement solaire. [0024] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of silicone. [0025] The present invention also relates to the use of the photoprotective cosmetic composition in the treatment of the skin against UV radiation, in particular against solar radiation.
DÉFINITIONS DEFINITIONS
[0026] Dans la présente invention, les termes ci-dessous sont définis de la manière suivante : [0026] In the present invention, the terms below are defined as follows:
[0027] “composition sous forme biphasique”, également appelée formulation biphasique, concerne une composition comprenant deux phases, l’une lipophile et l’autre hydroalcoolique, visuellement distinctes l’une de l’autre. Cette composition se distingue des émulsions par le fait qu’au repos et à température ambiante, les deux phases sont visuellement distinctes au lieu d’être émulsionnées l’une dans l’autre. Ainsi, les deux phases sont séparées au repos par une seule interface, alors que dans les émulsions, une des phases est dispersée dans l’autre sous forme d’une multitude de gouttelettes, et les interfaces sont donc multiples, ces interfaces étant généralement stabilisées par des tensioactifs émulsionnants et/ou des polymères émulsionnants. L’utilisation d’une composition biphasique nécessite une agitation préalable afin de former une émulsion extemporanée. Celle-ci doit être de qualité et stabilité suffisante pour permettre une application homogène des deux phases, mais telle qu’au repos, les deux phases se séparent relativement rapidement et retrouvent leur état initial, entre 30 secondes et 10 minutes, de préférence entre 3 minutes et 8 minutes, de préférence encore entre 4 minutes et 6 minutes, ce phénomène étant plus connu sous le terme de « déphasage ». [0027] “Composition in biphasic form”, also called biphasic formulation, relates to a composition comprising two phases, one lipophilic and the other hydroalcoholic, visually distinct from each other. This composition is distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest and at room temperature, the two phases are visually distinct instead of being emulsified in each other. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, whereas in emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore multiple, these interfaces generally being stabilized by emulsifying surfactants and/or emulsifying polymers. The use of a biphasic composition requires prior stirring in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion. This must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that at rest, the two phases separate relatively quickly and return to their initial state, between 30 seconds and 10 minutes, preferably between 3 minutes and 8 minutes, and even more preferably between 4 minutes and 6 minutes, this phenomenon being better known under the term “phase shift”.
[0028] “deux phases visuellement distinctes” signifie que dans une composition on peut distinguer à l’œil nu sans l’aide d’outil de grossissement les deux phases, notamment hydroalcoolique et lipophile, qui sont directement en contact l’une de l’autre. [0028] “two visually distinct phases” means that in a composition one can distinguish with the naked eye without the aid of a magnifying tool the two phases, in particular hydroalcoholic and lipophilic, which are in direct contact with each other.
[0029] “composition stable” concerne le fait que la composition demeure sous forme biphasique, après agitation, avec une dispersion stable entre les deux phases, stable durant son stockage, sans précipitation des filtres compris dans les deux phases. Plus particulièrement, après 1 mois, de préférence après 2 mois, de stockage à une température allant de 4 à 45°C, la composition stable ne présente aucun changement macroscopique de couleur, de viscosité, ni de variation de pH, ainsi qu'aucune variation d'aspect microscopique. [0029] “stable composition” refers to the fact that the composition remains in two-phase form, after stirring, with a stable dispersion between the two phases, stable during its storage, without precipitation of the filters included in the two phases. More particularly, after 1 month, preferably after 2 months, of storage at a temperature ranging from 4 to 45°C, the stable composition shows no macroscopic change in color, viscosity, or pH variation, as well as no microscopic variation in appearance.
[0030] “Exempte de”, devant le nom d’une substance, fait référence à une composition qui ne contient pas (0% en poids) ladite substance ou dont la teneur de ladite substance est strictement inférieure à 0.01% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. [0030] “Free from”, before the name of a substance, refers to a composition which does not contain (0% by weight) said substance or whose content of said substance is strictly less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] “De X à Y” désigne l’intervalle de valeurs entre X et Y, les limites X et Y étant incluses dans ledit intervalle. [0031] “From X to Y” means the range of values between X and Y, the limits X and Y being included in said range.
[0032] “au moins un” est équivalente à l’expression « un ou plusieurs ». [0032] “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0033] “Teneur”, devant le nom d’une substance, fait référence au pourcentage massique de cette substance dans la composition. [0033] “Content”, before the name of a substance, refers to the mass percentage of this substance in the composition.
[0034] “Tensioactif” désigne un composé amphiphile qui, par cette structure particulière, permet d’abaisser l’énergie libre des interfaces, par exemple les interfaces huile/eau ou air/eau. Ainsi un tensioactif est un composé qui modifie la tension superficielle entre deux surfaces. Les tensioactifs facilitent la formation de gouttes ou de bulles en diminuant la tension de surface. [0034] “Surfactant” means an amphiphilic compound which, by this particular structure, makes it possible to lower the free energy of interfaces, for example oil/water or air/water interfaces. Thus a surfactant is a compound which modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactants facilitate the formation of drops or bubbles by reducing the surface tension.
[0035] “SPF” correspond au facteur de protection solaire (SPF) qui permet de déterminer le niveau de protection solaire d’une composition. Le SPF est déterminé selon la méthode « in vitro » décrite par B.L. Diffey dans J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989). Le SPF de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon la présente invention est de préférence supérieur ou égal à 20, préférentiellement supérieur ou égal à 30, plus préférentiellement supérieur ou égal à 40, et plus préférentiellement encore supérieur ou égal à 45. [0035] “SPF” corresponds to the sun protection factor (SPF) which makes it possible to determine the level of sun protection of a composition. The SPF is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B.L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989). The SPF of the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 30, more preferably greater than or equal to 40, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 45.
[0036] « filtre UV hydrosoluble » correspond à tout composé organique ou inorganique filtrant les radiations UV-A et/ou UV-B pouvant être complètement dissous dans une phase aqueuse liquide, et notamment dans la phase hydroalcoolique A de l’invention. [0037] « filtre UV liposoluble » correspond à tout composé organique ou inorganique filtrant les radiations UV-A et/ou UV-B pouvant être complètement dissous dans une phase grasse liquide, et notamment dans la phase lipophile B de l’invention. [0036] “water-soluble UV filter” corresponds to any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV-A and/or UV-B radiation which can be completely dissolved in a liquid aqueous phase, and in particular in the hydroalcoholic phase A of the invention. [0037] “liposoluble UV filter” corresponds to any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV-A and/or UV-B radiation which can be completely dissolved in a liquid fatty phase, and in particular in the lipophilic phase B of the invention.
DESCRIPTION DÉTAILLÉE DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0038] La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice sous forme biphasique comprenant : une phase hydroalcoolique A comprenant au moins deux filtres UV choisis parmi l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique, et l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, et une phase lipophile B comprenant au moins trois filtres UV choisis parmi l’éthyl hexyl triazone, le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, et le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. [0038] The present invention relates to a photoprotective cosmetic composition in two-phase form comprising: a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and a lipophilic phase B comprising at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
[0039] D’une façon surprenante, la Demanderesse a constaté, que l’association d’une formulation biphasique hydroalcoolique et lipophile avec au moins cinq filtres solaires déterminés, permet d’obtenir une composition cosmétique photoprotectrice qui: présente un très bon index de protection solaire (facteur SPF>30) tout en respectant le cadre règlementaire (EU 1223/2009) et environnemental, reste stable dans le temps et présente également une bonne stabilité sur la peau pendant et après l’application, permet une application facile et fréquente avec une bonne capacité d’étalement, peut s’appliquer sous forme vaporisée sur le visage, même sur un maquillage ou fond de teint, de manière fréquente, sans nécessité d’être étalée, présente une texture légère, un bon toucher et est jugée non collante et non grasse/brillante sur la peau, peut en outre protéger de la lumière bleue et de la pollution atmosphérique. Composition cosmétique photoprotectrice [0039] Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that the combination of a hydroalcoholic and lipophilic biphasic formulation with at least five specific sunscreens makes it possible to obtain a photoprotective cosmetic composition which: has a very good sun protection index (SPF factor>30) while complying with the regulatory (EU 1223/2009) and environmental framework, remains stable over time and also has good stability on the skin during and after application, allows easy and frequent application with good spreadability, can be applied in spray form to the face, even over makeup or foundation, frequently, without the need to be spread, has a light texture, a good feel and is considered non-sticky and non-greasy/shiny on the skin, can also protect against blue light and atmospheric pollution. Photoprotective cosmetic composition
[0040] La composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon la présente invention comprend l’association d’au moins cinq filtres UV, également appelés filtres solaires, choisis parmi l’éthyl hexyl triazone, l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique, le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate et l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique. [0040] The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the combination of at least five UV filters, also called sun filters, chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
[0041] La composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est sous forme biphasique et comprend une phase hydroalcoolique A et une phase lipophile B. La phase hydroalcoolique A comprend l’association d’au moins deux filtres UV choisis parmi l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique (TDSA) et l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique (PBSA). La phase lipophile B comprend l’association d’au moins trois filtres UV choisis parmi l’éthyl hexyl triazone (EHT), le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine (BEMT), et le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB). En d’autres termes, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon la présente invention est sous forme biphasique comprenant : [0041] The photoprotective cosmetic composition is in two-phase form and comprises a hydroalcoholic phase A and a lipophilic phase B. The hydroalcoholic phase A comprises the combination of at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA) and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA). The lipophilic phase B comprises the combination of at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone (EHT), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB). In other words, the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in two-phase form comprising:
- une phase hydroalcoolique A comprenant l’association d’au moins deux filtres UV choisis parmi l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique, et l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, et - a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising the combination of at least two UV filters chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and
- une phase lipophile B comprenant l’association d’au moins trois filtres UV choisis parmi l’éthyl hexyl triazone, le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, et le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. - a lipophilic phase B comprising the combination of at least three UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
[0042] L’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique (TDSA) est un filtre UV-A hydrosoluble, pouvant notamment être commercialisé sous la dénomination Ecam H2OUV par la société IES Ingredients. [0042] Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA) is a water-soluble UV-A filter, which can be marketed in particular under the name Ecam H2OUV by the company IES Ingredients.
[0043] La teneur de l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique va de préférence de 0,1 à 15% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,5 à 10% en poids, mieux encore de 1 à 5% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 3 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice. [0044] La teneur de l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique va de préférence de 0,5 à 20% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 15% en poids, mieux encore de 5 à 10% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 5 à 7% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase hydroalcoolique A. [0043] The content of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition. [0044] The content of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid preferably ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
[0045] L’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique (PBSA) est un filtre UV-B hydrosoluble, pouvant notamment être commercialisé sous la dénomination Parsol HS par la société IES Ingredients. [0045] Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA) is a water-soluble UV-B filter, which can be marketed in particular under the name Parsol HS by the company IES Ingredients.
[0046] La teneur de l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique va de préférence de 0,05 à 15% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,1 à 10% en poids, mieux encore de 0,5 à 5% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 0,5 à 2% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice. [0046] The content of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0047] La teneur de l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique va de préférence de 0,05 à 15% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,1 à 10% en poids, mieux encore de 0,5 à 5% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 0,5 à 2% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase hydroalcoolique A. [0047] The content of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
[0048] L’éthyl hexyl triazone (EHT) est un filtre UV-B liposoluble. Il peut notamment être commercialisé sous la dénomination Uvasorb ET ou Parsol EHT par les sociétés 3V Sigma et IES Ingredients. [0048] Ethyl hexyl triazone (EHT) is a fat-soluble UV-B filter. It can be marketed under the name Uvasorb ET or Parsol EHT by the companies 3V Sigma and IES Ingredients.
[0049] La teneur de l’éthyl hexyl triazone va de préférence de 0,5 à 15% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 10% en poids, mieux encore de 2 à 8% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 3 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice. [0049] The content of ethyl hexyl triazone preferably ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0050] La teneur de l’éthyl hexyl triazone va de préférence de 1 à 25% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 5 à 20% en poids, mieux encore de 10 à 15% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 10 à 12% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase lipophile B. [0051] Le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine (BEMT) est un filtre UV-A liposoluble, qui peut notamment être commercialisé sous la dénomination Parsol Shield par la société IES Ingredients. [0050] The content of ethyl hexyl triazone preferably ranges from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better still from 10 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B. [0051] Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is a fat-soluble UV-A filter, which can in particular be marketed under the name Parsol Shield by the company IES Ingredients.
[0052] La teneur du bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine va de préférence de 0,1 à 15% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,5 à 5% en poids, mieux encore de 1 à 5% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 2 à 3% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice. [0052] The content of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0053] La teneur du bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine va de préférence de 1 à 20% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 15% en poids, mieux encore de 5 à 10% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 6 à 8% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase lipophile B. [0053] The content of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine preferably ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 6 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
[0054] Le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) est un filtre UV-B liposoluble, qui peut notamment être commercialisé sous la dénomination Uvinul A plus Granular ou Parsol DHHB par les sociétés AMI Ingredients ou IES Ingredients. [0054] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) is a fat-soluble UV-B filter, which can in particular be marketed under the name Uvinul A plus Granular or Parsol DHHB by the companies AMI Ingredients or IES Ingredients.
[0055] La teneur du diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate va de préférence de 0,1 à 15% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,5 à 5% en poids, mieux encore de 1 à 5% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 1 à 3% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice. [0055] The content of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0056] La teneur du diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate va de préférence de 1 à 20% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 15% en poids, mieux encore de 5 à 10% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 5 à 7% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase lipophile B. [0056] The content of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate preferably ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
[0057] Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de la présente invention peut éventuellement comprendre en outre au moins un filtre UV additionnel, différent des cinq filtres UV définis ci-avant, choisis parmi les filtres UV-A, les filtres UV-B et leurs mélanges. En d’autres termes, selon ce mode de réalisation, la phase hydroalcoolique A et/ou la phase lipophile B peut éventuellement comprendre en outre au moins un filtre UV additionnel, différent des cinq filtres UV définis ci-avant, choisis parmi les filtres UV-A, les filtres UV-B et leurs mélanges. [0057] According to a particular embodiment, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one additional UV filter, different from the five UV filters defined above, chosen from UV-A filters, UV-B filters and their mixtures. In other words, according to this embodiment, the hydroalcoholic phase A and/or the lipophilic phase B may optionally further comprise at least one additional UV filter, different from the five UV filters defined above, chosen from UV-A filters, UV-B filters and their mixtures.
[0058] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids d’Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinnamate (EHC). Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte de d’Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinnamate, c’est-à- dire qu’elle ne comprend pas de d’Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinnamate (0% en poids). [0058] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHC). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, that is to say that it does not comprise Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (0% by weight).
[0059] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids d’Octocrylene (OCR). Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte d’Octocrylene, c’est-à-dire qu’elle ne comprend pas de d’Octocrylene (0% en poids). [0059] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Octocrylene (OCR). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Octocrylene, that is to say that it does not comprise Octocrylene (0% by weight).
[0060] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids de Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane (BMDBM). Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte de Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane, c’est-à- dire qu’elle ne comprend pas de Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane (0% en poids). [0060] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane (BMDBM). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane, that is to say that it does not comprise Butylmethoxy Dibenzoyl Metane (0% by weight).
[0061] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids de Benzophenone-3. Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte de Benzophenone-3, c’est-à-dire qu’elle ne comprend pas de Benzophenone- 3 (0% en poids). [0061] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Benzophenone-3. More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Benzophenone-3, that is to say that it does not comprise Benzophenone-3 (0% by weight).
[0062] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids d’Ethylhexyl Salicylate (EHS). Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte d’Ethylhexyl Salicylate, c’est-à-dire qu’elle ne comprend pas d’Ethylhexyl Salicylate (0% en poids). [0063] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids d’Homosalate (HMS). Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte d’Homosalate, c’est-à-dire qu’elle ne comprend pas d’Homosalate (0% en poids). [0062] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Ethylhexyl Salicylate (EHS). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Ethylhexyl Salicylate, that is to say that it does not comprise Ethylhexyl Salicylate (0% by weight). [0063] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Homosalate (HMS). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Homosalate, that is to say that it does not comprise Homosalate (0% by weight).
[0064] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids de Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT). Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte de Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, c’est-à-dire qu’elle ne comprend pas de Methylene bis- benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (0% en poids). [0064] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT). More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, that is to say that it does not comprise Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (0% by weight).
[0065] Selon un autre mode de réalisation particulier, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de la présente invention ne comprend pas de filtres UV autres que les cinq filtres UV définis ci-avant. En d’autres termes, selon ce mode de réalisation, la composition ne comprend que l’association des cinq filtres UV choisis parmi l’éthyl hexyl triazone, l’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique, le bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate et l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique. [0065] According to another particular embodiment, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the present invention does not comprise UV filters other than the five UV filters defined above. In other words, according to this embodiment, the composition only comprises the combination of the five UV filters chosen from ethyl hexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
[0066] Selon cet autre mode de réalisation la phase hydroalcoolique A et la phase lipophile B ne contiennent pas d’autres filtres UV que ceux définis ci-avant. [0066] According to this other embodiment, the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B do not contain any UV filters other than those defined above.
[0067] La teneur totale des filtres UV, présents dans la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention, va de préférence de 5 à 30% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 8 à 25% en poids, et mieux encore de 10 à 20% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Par « teneur totale des filtres UV », on entend la somme de la teneur des au moins cinq filtres UV et de la teneur des éventuels filtres UV additionnels, différents des au moins cinq filtres UV définis ci-avant. [0067] The total content of UV filters present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention preferably ranges from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 25% by weight, and better still from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. By "total content of UV filters" is meant the sum of the content of the at least five UV filters and the content of any additional UV filters, different from the at least five UV filters defined above.
[0068] La teneur des filtres UV, présents dans la phase hydroalcoolique A de la composition de l’invention, va de préférence de 0,5 à 20% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 15% en poids, et mieux encore de 1 à 10% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase hydroalcoolique A. [0068] The content of UV filters, present in the hydroalcoholic phase A of the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
[0069] La teneur des filtres UV, présents dans la phase lipophile B de la composition de l’invention, va de préférence de 5 à 40% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 10 à 35% en poids, et mieux encore de 20 à 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase lipophile B. [0069] The content of UV filters, present in the lipophilic phase B of the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, and better still from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
[0070] Par « phase hydroalcoolique », on entend une phase comprenant de l’eau et au moins un solvant organique, notamment au moins un alcool. Le au moins un solvant organique est de préférence choisi parmi les monoalcools en Ci à C4, tels que l’éthanol ou l’isopropanol, les diols ou les polyols, tels que l’éthylène glycol, le propylène glycol (ou propanediol), le butylène glycol, l’héxylèneglycol, le diéthylèneglycol, le dipropylène glycol, le glycérol et leurs mélanges. [0070] By “hydroalcoholic phase” is meant a phase comprising water and at least one organic solvent, in particular at least one alcohol. The at least one organic solvent is preferably chosen from C1 to C4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol (or propanediol), butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.
[0071] La teneur totale en eau, présente dans la phase hydroalcoolique A de la composition de l’invention va de préférence de 25 à 60% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 30 à 55% en poids, et mieux encore de 35 à 50% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase hydroalcoolique A. [0071] The total water content present in the hydroalcoholic phase A of the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 25 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight, and better still from 35 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
[0072] La teneur totale en solvant(s) organique(s), notamment en alcool(s), présent(s) dans la phase hydroalcoolique A de la composition de l’invention va de préférence de 20 à 50% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 25 à 45% en poids, et mieux encore de 30 à 40% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase hydroalcoolique A. [0072] The total content of organic solvent(s), in particular alcohol(s), present in the hydroalcoholic phase A of the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 20 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 45% by weight, and better still from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydroalcoholic phase A.
[0073] La phase lipophile B peut éventuellement comprendre en outre au moins un corps gras. Par « corps gras », on entend un composé organique insoluble dans l’eau à température ambiante (25°C) et à pression atmosphérique (760 mm Hg). Le au moins un corps gras utilisable selon la présente invention n’est ni polyoxyalkylénés ni polyglycérolés. [0073] The lipophilic phase B may optionally further comprise at least one fatty substance. By “fatty substance” is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The at least one fatty substance that can be used according to the present invention is neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.
[0074] Lorsqu’il est présent, le au moins un corps gras est de préférence choisi parmi les alcools gras, les acides gras, les esters d’acides et/ou d’alcools gras, les huiles végétales et leurs mélanges, et de préférence encore parmi les esters d’acides et/ou d’alcools gras, les huiles végétales et leurs mélanges. [0074] When present, the at least one fatty substance is preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and their mixtures, and more preferably among esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and their mixtures.
[0075] Par « huile », on entend tout corps gras sous forme liquide à température ambiante (25°C) et à pression atmosphérique (760 mm Hg). Les huiles végétales sont de préférence choisies parmi les huiles triglycérides d’origine végétales, telles que les triglycérides liquides d’acides gras comportant de 6 à 30 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octonaoïque ou encore par exemples les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de noisette, d’abricot, de macadamia, d’arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d’avocat, de riz, de pracaxi, l’huile de jojoba, l’huile de beurre de karité, les triglycérides des acides capryliques/capriques (comme ceux vendus sous les dénominations Cetiol CC®, Citrofol AI ou DUBDIS par la société BASF et DUBOIS) et leurs mélanges. Selon un mode de réalisation, le corps gras n’est pas l’huile de ricin Selon un mode de réalisation, la composition de l’invention ne comprend pas d’huile de ricin. [0075] By “oil” is meant any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The vegetable oils are preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octonaic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, rice, pracaxi oils, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids (such as those sold under the names Cetiol CC®, Citrofol AI or DUBDIS by the company BASF and DUBOIS) and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the fatty body is not castor oil. According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise castor oil.
[0076] Au sens de la présente invention, les alcools, les esters et les acides gras présentent de préférence au moins un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, comprenant 6 à 30 atomes de carbone, éventuellement substitué, en particulier par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxy le (en particulier 1 à 4). [0076] For the purposes of the present invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids preferably have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4).
[0077] Les alcools gras utilisables selon la présente invention sont de préférence liquides à température ambiante (25°C) et à pression atmosphérique (760 mm Hg). Les alcools gras selon l'invention sont de préférence ramifiés et/ou insaturés, et comportent de 12 à 40 atomes de carbone, et ils sont non oxyalkylénés (tel que non éthoxylés) et non glycérolés. Les alcools gras présentent de préférence la structure R-OH, dans laquelle R désigne de préférence un groupement alkyle ramifié en C12 à C24 ou alkényle en C12 à C24. R peut être substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxy. De préférence, R ne contient pas de groupement hydroxy. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer l'alcool oléique, l'alcool linoléique, l'alcool linolénique, l'alcool isocétylique, l'alcool isostéarylique, le 2- octyl- 1 -dodécanol, le 2-butyl octanol, le 2-hexyl- 1 -décanol, le 2-decyl- 1 -tétradécanol, le 2- tétradécyl-1 -cétanol et leurs mélanges. [0078] Les esters d'acide gras et/ou d'alcools gras pouvant être utilisés selon la présente invention sont de préférence différents des triglycérides mentionnés auparavant. A titre d’exemple, on peut notamment citer les esters de mono ou poly acides aliphatiques saturés ou insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés en Ci à C26 et de mono ou polyalcools aliphatiques saturés ou insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés en Ci à C26, le nombre total de carbone des esters étant supérieur ou égal à 6, plus avantageusement supérieur ou égal à 10. [0077] The fatty alcohols that can be used according to the present invention are preferably liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The fatty alcohols according to the invention are preferably branched and/or unsaturated, and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, and they are non-oxyalkylenated (such as non-ethoxylated) and non-glycerolated. The fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R-OH, in which R preferably denotes a branched C12 to C24 alkyl or C12 to C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxy group. Examples include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol and mixtures thereof. [0078] The fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that can be used according to the present invention are preferably different from the triglycerides mentioned above. By way of example, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C26 aliphatic mono or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C26 aliphatic mono or poly alcohols, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0079] Parmi les monoesters utilisables, on peut citer le béhénate de dihydroabiétyle ; le béhénate d'octyldodécyle ; le béhénate d'isocétyle ; le lactate de cétyle ; le lactate d'alkyle en C12 à C15 ; le lactate d'isostéaryle ; le lactate de lauryle ; le lactate de linoléyle ; le lactate d'oléyle ; l'octanoate de (iso)stéaryle ; l'octanoate d'isocétyle ; l'octanoate d'octyle ; l'octanoate de cétyle ; l'oléate de décyle ; l'isostéarate d'isocétyle ; le laurate d'isocétyle ; le stéarate d'isocétyle ; l'octanoate d'isodécyle ; l'oléate d'isodécyle ; l'isononanoate d'isononyle ; le palmitate d'isostéaryle ; le ricinoléate de méthyle acétyle ; le stéarate de myristyle ; l'isononanoate d'octyle ; l'isononate de 2-éthylhexyle ; le palmitate d'octyle ; le pélargonate d'octyle ; le stéarate d'octyle ; l'érucate d'octyldodécyle ; l'érucate d'oléyle ; les palmitates d'éthyle et d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl- 2-héxyle, le palmitate de 2-octyldécyle, les myristates d'alkyles tels que le myristate d'isopropyle, de butyle, de cétyle, de 2-octyldodécyle, de mirystyle, de stéaryle le stéarate d'hexyle, le stéarate de butyle, le stéarate d'isobutyle ; le malate de dioctyle, le laurate d'hexyle, le laurate de 2-hexyldécyle. [0079] Among the monoesters that can be used, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12 to C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyl, stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
[0080] On peut également utiliser les esters d'acides di ou tricarboxyliques en C4 à C22 et d'alcools en Ci à C22 et les esters d'acides mono di ou tricarboxyliques et d'alcools di, tri, tétra ou pentahydroxy en C2 à C26. A titre d’exemple, on peut notamment citer : le sébacate de diéthyle ; le sébacate de diisopropyle ; l'adipate de diisopropyle ; l'adipate de di n-propyle ; l'adipate de dioctyle ; l'adipate de diisostéaryle ; le maléate de dioctyle ; l'undecylénate de glycéryle ; le stéarate d'octyldodécyl stéaroyl ; le monoricinoléate de pentaérythrityle ; le tétraisononanoate de pentaérythrityle ; le tétrapélargonate de pentaérythrityle ; le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle ; le tétraoctanoate de pentaérythrityle ; le dicaprylate de propylène glycol ; le dicaprate de propylène glycol, l'érucate de tridécyle ; le citrate de triisopropyle ; le citrate de triisotéaryle ; trilactate de glycéryle ; trioctanoate de glycéryle ; le citrate de trioctyldodécyle ; le citrate de trioléyle, le dioctanoate de propylène glycol ; le diheptanoate de néopentyl glycol ; le diisanonate de diéthylène glycol ; et les distéarates de polyéthylène glycol. [0080] It is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols. By way of example, mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; trilactate glyceryl; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisocyanate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
[0081] De préférence, le au moins un corps gras est choisi parmi les esters d’acides et/ou d’alcools gras, les huiles végétales et leurs mélanges, et plus préférentiellement parmi le carbonate de dicaprylyl, le sébacate de diisopropyle, les triglycérides des acides capryliques/capriques, l’huile de riz, l’huile de pracaxi et leurs mélanges. [0081] Preferably, the at least one fatty substance is chosen from esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols, vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, rice oil, pracaxi oil and mixtures thereof.
[0082] La teneur totale en corps gras, lorsqu’ils sont présents dans la phase lipophile B de la composition de l’invention, va de préférence de 40 à 80% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 50 à 75% en poids, et mieux encore de 55 à 70% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la phase lipophile B. [0082] The total content of fatty substances, when they are present in the lipophilic phase B of the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 40 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 75% by weight, and better still from 55 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipophilic phase B.
[0083] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de l’invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids de silicone. Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte de silicone, c’est-à-dire qu’elle ne comprend pas de silicone (0% en poids). [0083] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of silicone. More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of silicone, that is to say that it does not comprise silicone (0% by weight).
[0084] Avantageusement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice de la présente invention comprend moins de 0,1% en poids, et de préférence moins de 0,05% en poids de tensioactifs. Plus préférentiellement, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice est exempte de tensioactif, c’est-à-dire qu’elle ne comprend pas de tensioactif (0% en poids). [0084] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight of surfactants. More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is free of surfactant, that is to say that it does not comprise any surfactant (0% by weight).
[0085] La composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon la présente invention peut éventuellement comprendre en outre au moins un agent actif. En d’autres termes, la phase hydroalcoolique A et/ou la phase lipophile B peut éventuellement comprendre en outre au moins un agent actif. [0085] The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one active agent. In other words, the hydroalcoholic phase A and/or the lipophilic phase B may optionally further comprise at least one active agent.
[0086] Avantageusement, le au moins un agent actif utilisable selon la présente invention peut être choisi parmi les vitamines, les extraits de plantes, les agents hydratants et leurs mélanges. [0087] A titre d’exemple, les vitamines pouvant être utilisées selon la présente invention sont de préférence choisies parmi la vitamine B3, la vitamine C, la vitamine E et leurs mélanges. [0086] Advantageously, the at least one active agent usable according to the present invention can be chosen from vitamins, plant extracts, moisturizing agents and their mixtures. [0087] By way of example, the vitamins that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from vitamin B3, vitamin C, vitamin E and mixtures thereof.
[0088] La teneur totale en vitamine(s), lorsqu’elle(s) est présente dans la composition de l’invention, va de préférence de 0,01 à 8% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,05 à 5% en poids, et mieux encore de 0,1 à 2% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. [0088] The total content of vitamin(s), when present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] A titre d’exemple, les extraits de plantes pouvant être utilisés selon la présente invention sont de préférence choisis parmi l’extrait de fleur de Buddleja officinalis, l’extrait d’Aloe vera, l’extrait de feuille d’Aloe barbadensis, l’extrait d’Acerola l’extrait de Magnolia officinalis, l’extrait de gingembre et leurs mélanges, et plus préférentiellement parmi l’extrait de fleur de Buddleja officinalis, l’extrait d’Aloe vera, l’extrait de feuille d’Aloe barbadensis, l’extrait d’Acerola et leurs mélanges. [0089] By way of example, the plant extracts that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from Buddleja officinalis flower extract, Aloe vera extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acerola extract, Magnolia officinalis extract, ginger extract and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from Buddleja officinalis flower extract, Aloe vera extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acerola extract and mixtures thereof.
[0090] Par « extrait de plante », on entend selon la présente invention, tout ou partie de la plante incluant les racines, les graines, les gousses, les feuilles et les fleurs. [0090] By “plant extract” is meant according to the present invention, all or part of the plant including the roots, seeds, pods, leaves and flowers.
[0091] Avantageusement, l’extrait de fleur de Buddleja officinalis est riche en phénylpropanoïdes (>11,5% de matière sèche), la fraction purifiée (sans acide caféique) des fleurs de Buddleja officinalis étant très concentrée en verbascoside et en échinacoside. Par exemple, l’extrait de fleur de Buddleja officinalis est le produit SOLIBERINE® de Greentech. L’extrait de fleur de Buddleja officinalis peut être une composition comprenant du propanediol comme solvant. L’utilisation d’un extrait de fleur de Buddleja officinalis présente l’avantage de réduire la quantité de radicaux libres. [0091] Advantageously, the Buddleja officinalis flower extract is rich in phenylpropanoids (>11.5% dry matter), the purified fraction (without caffeic acid) of the Buddleja officinalis flowers being very concentrated in verbascoside and echinacoside. For example, the Buddleja officinalis flower extract is the SOLIBERINE® product from Greentech. The Buddleja officinalis flower extract may be a composition comprising propanediol as a solvent. The use of a Buddleja officinalis flower extract has the advantage of reducing the quantity of free radicals.
[0092] Avantageusement, l’extrait d’Aloe vera est un extrait de feuilles d’Aloe Barbadensis, par exemple un extrait l’Aloe vera fourni par Aloecorp, Inc.. L’utilisation d’un extrait d’Aloe Barbadensis présente l’avantage de permettre une excellente hydratation de la peau, de combattre l'inflammation et la sécheresse cutanée, tout en laissant la peau lisse et douce. [0093] Avantageusement, l’extrait d’Acerola est un extrait de fruit de Malpighia Glabra. De préférence, l’extrait d’Acerola se présente sous la forme d’une composition comprenant un extrait de fruit de Malpighia Glabra et de la glycérine, notamment une composition comprenant 5% en poids d’extrait de fruit de Malpighia Glabra et 95% de glycérine, telle que la composition COSME-PHYTAMI™ ACREOLA de Alban Muller. L’extrait d’Acerola est un puissant antioxydant, et présente l’avantage d’illuminer le teint et d’atténuer les signes visibles du vieillissement, revitalisant ainsi la peau stressée et fatiguée. [0092] Advantageously, the Aloe vera extract is an extract of Aloe Barbadensis leaves, for example an Aloe vera extract supplied by Aloecorp, Inc.. The use of an Aloe Barbadensis extract has the advantage of allowing excellent hydration of the skin, of combating inflammation and skin dryness, while leaving the skin smooth and soft. [0093] Advantageously, the Acerola extract is a Malpighia Glabra fruit extract. Preferably, the Acerola extract is in the form of a composition comprising a Malpighia Glabra fruit extract and glycerin, in particular a composition comprising 5% by weight of Malpighia Glabra fruit extract and 95% glycerin, such as the composition COSME-PHYTAMI™ ACREOLA from Alban Muller. Acerola extract is a powerful antioxidant, and has the advantage of brightening the complexion and reducing the visible signs of aging, thus revitalizing stressed and tired skin.
[0094] La teneur totale en extrait(s) de plante, lorsqu’ il(s) est présent dans la composition de l’invention, va de préférence de 0,01 à 5% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,05 à 2% en poids, et mieux encore de 0,1 à 1% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. [0094] The total content of plant extract(s), when present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] La composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon la présente invention peut éventuellement comprendre en outre un ou plusieurs composés additionnels, différents des composés de l’invention, de préférence choisis parmi les parfums, les colorants, les agents conservateurs, les agents opacifiants, les agents solubilisant et leurs mélanges. Avantageusement, les colorants peuvent comprendre des pigments caroténoïdes comme le lycopène et le xanthophylle, par exemple une composition comprenant du lycopène et du xanthophylle dans de l’huile de riz (oryza sativa bran oil) peut être utilisée, telle que la composition MAKIGREEN BLUE de Daito Kasei. Une telle composition a l’avantage de protéger en outre de la lumière bleue. Avantageusement, l’agent conservateur peut être du sorbate de potassium. [0095] The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additional compounds, different from the compounds of the invention, preferably chosen from perfumes, colorants, preservatives, opacifying agents, solubilizing agents and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the colorants may comprise carotenoid pigments such as lycopene and xanthophyll, for example a composition comprising lycopene and xanthophyll in rice oil (oryza sativa bran oil) may be used, such as the composition MAKIGREEN BLUE from Daito Kasei. Such a composition has the advantage of additionally protecting against blue light. Advantageously, the preservative may be potassium sorbate.
[0096] Lorsqu’ils sont présents dans la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon l’invention, la teneur totale en composés additionnels, différent des composés selon l’invention, varie avantageusement de 0,01 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Il est entendu que l’homme de l’art veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés additionnels de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement à la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon l’invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l’ajout de ces éventuels composés. [0097] La teneur de la phase hydroalcoolique A, présente dans la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice, va de préférence de 50 à 80% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 55 à 75% en poids, et mieux encore de 60 à 70% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. [0096] When they are present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of additional compounds, different from the compounds according to the invention, advantageously varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is understood that those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition of these possible compounds. [0097] The content of the hydroalcoholic phase A, present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition, preferably ranges from 50 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 55 to 75% by weight, and better still from 60 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] La teneur de la phase lipophile B, présente dans la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice, va de préférence de 20 à 50% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 25 à 45% en poids, et mieux encore de 30 à 40% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. [0098] The content of the lipophilic phase B, present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition, preferably ranges from 20 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 45% by weight, and better still from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] Avantageusement, le rapport pondéral entre la phase hydroalcoolique A et la phase lipophile B est de préférence supérieur ou égal à 1, plus préférentiellement ce rapport pondéral va de 1 à 6, mieux encore de 1 à 3 et mieux encore de 1 à 2. [0099] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B is preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably this weight ratio ranges from 1 to 6, better still from 1 to 3 and better still from 1 to 2.
[0100] Avantageusement, le pH de la composition selon l’invention est compris entre 5,8 et 7,5, de préférence entre 6,5 et 7,5. [0100] Advantageously, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 5.8 and 7.5, preferably between 6.5 and 7.5.
[0101] La composition de l’invention est de préférence appliquée sous forme de spray ou par vaporisation. Avantageusement, la granulométrie des gouttelettes obtenue de la vaporisation de la composition selon l’invention à 10 cm de la peau est comprise entre D(10) entre 18 pm et 23 pm, de préférence est 21,26 pm ; D(50) entre 38 pm et 45 pm, de préférence est 43,01 pm ; D(90) entre 70 pm et 90 pm, mieux entre 70 pm et 75 pm, de préférence est 73,35 pm. [0101] The composition of the invention is preferably applied in the form of a spray or by vaporization. Advantageously, the particle size of the droplets obtained from vaporization of the composition according to the invention 10 cm from the skin is between D(10) between 18 pm and 23 pm, preferably 21.26 pm; D(50) between 38 pm and 45 pm, preferably 43.01 pm; D(90) between 70 pm and 90 pm, better still between 70 pm and 75 pm, preferably 73.35 pm.
Composition cosmétique photoprotectrice préférée Preferred photoprotective cosmetic composition
[0102] Dans un mode de réalisation, la phase lipophile B de la composition de l’invention comprend de 3 à 5% en poids d’éthyl hexyl triazone, de 2 à 3% en poids de bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine et de 1 à 3% en poids de diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice . [0102] In one embodiment, the lipophilic phase B of the composition of the invention comprises from 3 to 5% by weight of ethyl hexyl triazone, from 2 to 3% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and from 1 to 3% by weight of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0103] Dans un mode de réalisation, la phase hydroalcoolique A de la composition comprend entre 3% et 5% en poids d’acide téréphthalylidène dicamphore-sulfonique et entre 0,5% et 2% en poids d’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice. [0103] In one embodiment, the hydroalcoholic phase A of the composition comprises between 3% and 5% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and between 0.5% and 2% by weight of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0104] Dans un mode de réalisation très préférentiel, la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon la présente invention sous forme biphasique comprend, de préférence : a. une phase hydroalcoolique A comprenant : [0104] In a very preferred embodiment, the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the present invention in two-phase form preferably comprises: a. a hydroalcoholic phase A comprising:
- de l’acide téréphthalylidène die amphore- sulfonique, dans une teneur allant de 0,1 à 15% en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 10% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5% en poids, et mieux encore de 3 à 5% en poids, et - terephthalylidene die amphora-sulfonic acid, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, and better still from 3 to 5% by weight, and
- de l’acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, dans une teneur allant de 0,05 à 15% en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 10% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,5 à 5% en poids, et mieux encore de 0,5 à 2% en poids ; et b. une phase lipophile B comprenant : - phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight; and b. a lipophilic phase B comprising:
- de l’éthyl hexyl triazone, dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 15% en poids, de préférence de 1 à 10% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 2 à 8% en poids, et mieux encore de 3 à 5% en poids, - ethyl hexyl triazone, in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, and better still from 3 to 5% by weight,
- du bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine, dans une teneur allant de 0, 1 à 15% en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 5% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5% en poids, mieux encore de 2 à 3% en poids, et - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, better still from 2 to 3% by weight, and
- du diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, dans une teneur allant de 0,1 à 15% en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 5% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5% en poids, et mieux encore de 1 à 3% en poids ; les pourcentages étant exprimés en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice. - diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, and better still from 1 to 3% by weight; the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
Utilisations Uses
[0105] La présente invention porte également sur l’utilisation de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice pour protéger la peau humaine contre les rayonnements UV, et notamment les rayonnements solaires. [0106] La composition selon l’invention est destinée principalement à un usage journalier, en application le matin sur le visage sous forme de spray, pour une protection contre les rayons UV-A et UV-B, la lumière bleue et la pollution atmosphérique. Elle est plus particulièrement adaptée aux jeunes enfants, adolescent(e)s et adultes, notamment les femmes, qui se maquillent. Avant son application, la composition selon l’invention doit être agitée vigoureusement pour obtenir une vaporisation homogène et optimale. [0105] The present invention also relates to the use of the photoprotective cosmetic composition for protecting human skin against UV radiation, and in particular solar radiation. [0106] The composition according to the invention is intended primarily for daily use, applied in the morning to the face in the form of a spray, for protection against UV-A and UV-B rays, blue light and atmospheric pollution. It is more particularly suitable for young children, adolescents and adults, particularly women, who wear makeup. Before application, the composition according to the invention must be shaken vigorously to obtain homogeneous and optimal spraying.
[0107] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition selon l’invention fournit une protection solaire efficace supérieure ou égale à une protection SPF20 UVA, de préférence SPF30 UVA, de préférence encore SPF40 UVA et de préférence encore SPF45 UVA. Il convient de noter que le rapport UVA/SPF de la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon l’invention présente in vitro une valeur comprise de préférence entre 0,33 et 0,5, plus particulièrement une valeur de 0,46. [0107] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention provides effective sun protection greater than or equal to SPF20 UVA protection, preferably SPF30 UVA protection, more preferably SPF40 UVA protection and more preferably SPF45 UVA protection. It should be noted that the UVA/SPF ratio of the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the invention has in vitro a value preferably between 0.33 and 0.5, more particularly a value of 0.46.
[0108] Dans un dernier mode de réalisation, la composition selon l’invention est adaptée pour être pulvérisée sur la peau. Ainsi, pour les jeunes enfants, les adolescents et les adultes, notamment les femmes, qui se maquillent, il est possible d’utiliser la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice facilement dès le matin, après agitation vigoureuse, par simple vaporisation sur le visage, en fermant les yeux. Des applications toutes les deux heures sont recommandées pour maintenir une protection optimale à l’extérieur. Une application unique le matin est suffisante si l’activité extérieure et/ou le rayonnement solaire est faible. [0108] In a final embodiment, the composition according to the invention is suitable for being sprayed onto the skin. Thus, for young children, adolescents and adults, particularly women, who wear makeup, it is possible to use the photoprotective cosmetic composition easily in the morning, after vigorous shaking, by simply spraying it onto the face, while closing the eyes. Applications every two hours are recommended to maintain optimal protection outdoors. A single application in the morning is sufficient if outdoor activity and/or solar radiation is low.
[0109] Il convient de noter que la composition cosmétique photoprotectrice selon l’invention respecte le cadre règlementaire (EU 1223/2009) et environnemental dans le sens où elle est conforme pour une commercialisation sur le marché en Europe et au-delà. [0109] It should be noted that the photoprotective cosmetic composition according to the invention complies with the regulatory (EU 1223/2009) and environmental framework in the sense that it is compliant for marketing on the market in Europe and beyond.
Procédé de préparation de la composition Process for preparing the composition
[0110] Pour réaliser la composition selon l’invention, on réalise d’abord la phase hydroalcoolique A et la phase lipophile B. Chaque composition est ensuite introduite dans un mélangeur statique, à savoir un tube à l’intérieur duquel se trouve une structure tridimensionnelle favorisant l’apparition de tourbillons lors du passage d’un fluide. Les phases sont alors dispersées par un dispositif statique, c’est-à-dire un dispositif qui n’est pas entraîné par un système rotatif, évitant ainsi une dispersion de la phase lipophile B dans la phase hydroalcoolique A. [0110] To produce the composition according to the invention, the hydroalcoholic phase A and the lipophilic phase B are first produced. Each composition is then introduced into a static mixer, namely a tube inside which there is a three-dimensional structure promoting the appearance of vortices when a fluid passes through. The phases are then dispersed by a static device, i.e. a device which is not not driven by a rotating system, thus avoiding a dispersion of the lipophilic phase B in the hydroalcoholic phase A.
[OU I] La phase hydro alcoolique A peut notamment être préparée en mélangeant d’abord les filtres UV à une température de 50°C. La solution obtenue est ensuite refroidie à température ambiante progressivement. Les éventuels composés additionnels peuvent notamment être ajoutés lors de cette étape de refroidissement. La solution finale est ensuite laissée reposer pendant 24h, puis filtrée pour obtenir la phase hydroalcoolique A. [OR I] Hydroalcoholic phase A can be prepared by first mixing the UV filters at a temperature of 50°C. The resulting solution is then gradually cooled to room temperature. Any additional compounds can be added during this cooling step. The final solution is then left to stand for 24 hours and then filtered to obtain hydroalcoholic phase A.
[0112] La phase lipophile B peut notamment être préparée en mélangeant d’abord les filtres UV à une température supérieure ou égale à 75°C. La solution ainsi obtenue est laissée refroidir jusqu’à une température inférieure à 40°C avant l’ajout éventuel, sous agitation, de composés additionnels. La solution finale est ensuite laissée refroidir jusqu’à température ambiante pour obtenir la phase lipophile B. [0112] Lipophilic phase B can in particular be prepared by first mixing the UV filters at a temperature greater than or equal to 75°C. The solution thus obtained is allowed to cool to a temperature below 40°C before the possible addition, with stirring, of additional compounds. The final solution is then allowed to cool to room temperature to obtain lipophilic phase B.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
[0113] La présente invention se comprendra mieux à la lecture des exemples suivants qui illustrent non-limitativement l’invention. selon l’invention [0113] The present invention will be better understood by reading the following examples which illustrate the invention in a non-limiting manner. according to the invention
[0114] Composition biphasique C [0114] Biphasic composition C
[0115] Les ingrédients des phases hydroalcoolique A et lipophile B de la composition C sont présentées dans les tableaux 1 et 2 ci-dessous (les pourcentages étant exprimés en pourcentage de matière active par rapport au poids total de la phase les comprenant). [0116] [Tableau 1] [0115] The ingredients of the hydroalcoholic phases A and lipophilic B of composition C are presented in tables 1 and 2 below (the percentages being expressed as a percentage of active material relative to the total weight of the phase comprising them). [0116] [Table 1]
[0117] [Tableau 2] [0117] [Table 2]
[0118] Protocole [0118] Protocol
[0119] La composition biphasique C est préparée selon le protocole suivant : - On prépare la phase hydroalcoolique A : [0119] The two-phase composition C is prepared according to the following protocol: - The hydroalcoholic phase A is prepared:
■ en solubilisant dans l’eau déminéralisée purifiée chauffée à 50°C, le sorbate de potassium avec l’arginine, sous agitation. Puis on ajoute le filtre UV acide téréphthalylidène dicamphor sulfonique, afin d’obtenir une solution limpide et transparente Al. ■ On ajoute alors à cette solution Al le filtre UV acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique à la température de 50°C et on agite vigoureusement jusqu’à l’obtention d’une solution limpide et transparente légèrement jaune pâle A2. ■ by dissolving potassium sorbate with arginine in purified demineralized water heated to 50°C, while stirring. Then the UV filter terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid is added, in order to obtain a clear and transparent Al solution. ■ The UV filter phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is then added to this solution Al at a temperature of 50°C and the mixture is stirred vigorously until a clear, transparent, slightly pale yellow solution A2 is obtained.
■ On ajoute à la solution A2 précédemment obtenue et refroidie à une température inférieure à 40°C, l’extrait de feuille d’Aloe Vera, la Niacinamide, l’extrait de fruit de Malpighia Glabra, et l’extrait de fleur de Buddleja Officinalis, tout en agitant, jusqu’à l’obtention d’une solution limpide et transparente légèrement marron A3. ■ Add to the previously obtained solution A2, cooled to a temperature below 40°C, the Aloe Vera leaf extract, Niacinamide, Malpighia Glabra fruit extract, and Buddleja Officinalis flower extract, while stirring, until a clear, transparent, slightly brown solution A3 is obtained.
■ On ajoute enfin à la solution A3, refroidie à une température ambiante d’environ 25 °C, l’éthanol et le parfum, afin d’obtenir la phase A4 constituant la phase hydroalcoolique A. ■ Finally, ethanol and perfume are added to solution A3, cooled to an ambient temperature of approximately 25°C, in order to obtain phase A4, constituting the hydroalcoholic phase A.
On prépare la phase lipophile B : We prepare the lipophilic phase B:
■ On mélange sous agitation le dicaprylyl carbonate, le diisopropyl sébacate et le triéthyl citrate que l’on chauffe à une température de 75°C pour obtenir une solution Bl, ■ Dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate and triethyl citrate are mixed under stirring and heated to a temperature of 75°C to obtain a solution Bl,
■ On ajoute à la solution Bl sous agitation les filtres UV Ethylhexyl triazone, la bis-éthylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphényl triazine et le diéthylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, pour obtenir une solution B2 limpide jaune, ■ UV filters Ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate are added to solution Bl while stirring, to obtain a clear yellow solution B2,
■ On refroidit la solution B2 jusqu’ à 40°C, puis on ajoute le tocophérol, les colorants et l’acétate tocophéryl. On laisse refroidir la solution B3 progressivement dans un bain d’eau froide sans glaçons, jusqu’à la température ambiante. On obtient alors la phase lipophile B. ■ Solution B2 is cooled to 40°C, then the tocopherol, colorants, and tocopheryl acetate are added. Solution B3 is allowed to cool gradually in a cold water bath without ice cubes, to room temperature. This gives the lipophilic phase B.
[0120] Les phases hydro alcoolique A et lipophile B ainsi obtenues sont ensuite mélangées selon un rapport pondéral A/B de 1,9. La composition cosmétique photoprotectrice C ainsi obtenue est ensuite stockée à une température supérieure à 15 °C. [0120] The hydroalcoholic A and lipophilic B phases thus obtained are then mixed according to a weight ratio A/B of 1.9. The photoprotective cosmetic composition C thus obtained is then stored at a temperature above 15°C.
[0121] La stabilité de la composition a été conduite sous différentes températures à 4°C, 25 °C et 40° C pendant 3 mois. Les caractéristiques du produit sont restées sensiblement identiques, en particulier la couleur, le pH, les performances SPF et UVA. La composition de l’invention reste donc stable dans le temps. [0121] The stability of the composition was conducted under different temperatures at 4°C, 25°C and 40°C for 3 months. The characteristics of the product remained substantially identical, in particular color, pH, SPF and UVA performance. The composition of the invention therefore remains stable over time.
Exemple 2 : Tests comparatifs de stabilité [0122] Compositions comparatives Example 2: Comparative stability tests [0122] Comparative compositions
[0123] La composition cosmétique C de l’exemple 1 a été comparée avec deux autres compositions comparatives, dont l’une est une composition DI 100% liposoluble (Tableau 3), et l’autre est une composition biphasique D2 (Tableau 4). Les ingrédients des compositions comparatives DI et D2 sont mentionnés dans les tableaux 3 et 4 ci- dessous (les pourcentages étant exprimés en pourcentages en poids de matière active par rapport au poids totale de la composition les comprenant). [0123] Cosmetic composition C of Example 1 was compared with two other comparative compositions, one of which is a 100% liposoluble DI composition (Table 3), and the other is a biphasic composition D2 (Table 4). The ingredients of comparative compositions DI and D2 are mentioned in Tables 3 and 4 below (the percentages being expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them).
[0124] [Tableau 3] [0125] [Tableau 4] [0124] [Table 3] [0125] [Table 4]
[0126] Les tests effectués : La stabilité des filtres a été étudiée à différentes températures 4°C, 25°C et 40°C pendant 3 mois et à 50°C pendant 1 mois. [0126] Tests carried out: The stability of the filters was studied at different temperatures 4°C, 25°C and 40°C for 3 months and at 50°C for 1 month.
[0127] Résultats [0128] Dans la composition comparative DI ainsi que dans la composition biphasique comparative D2, les filtres UV cristallisent ; alors que dans la composition biphasique C (de l’exemple 1) selon l’invention, on observe une stabilité sans modification de la stabilité des filtres, ni cristallisation, ni baisse de performance pour les mesures de SPF et UVA mesurées in vitro. Exemple 3 : Evaluation sensorielle de la composition cosmétique C selon l’invention [0127] Results [0128] In the comparative composition DI as well as in the comparative biphasic composition D2, the UV filters crystallize; whereas in the biphasic composition C (of example 1) according to the invention, stability is observed without modification of the stability of the filters, nor crystallization, nor drop in performance for the SPF and UVA measurements measured in vitro. Example 3: Sensory evaluation of cosmetic composition C according to the invention
[0129] La composition biphasique C de l’exemple 1 a été introduite dans un flacon muni d’une pompe afin d’obtenir un spray. Ledit spray a ensuite été testé sur dix volontaires femmes et hommes de 25 à 65 ans. Avant l’application, la composition a été agitée vigoureusement, puis appliquée sur l’avant-bras par pulvérisation à 15 cm du bras. [0129] The biphasic composition C of Example 1 was introduced into a bottle equipped with a pump in order to obtain a spray. Said spray was then tested on ten female and male volunteers aged 25 to 65. Before application, the composition was shaken vigorously, then applied to the forearm by spraying 15 cm from the arm.
[0130] Chaque volontaire a ensuite attribué une note allant de 1 à 5 à chacun des effets listés dans le tableau 5 ci-dessous et selon les critères précisés ci-dessous. [0130] Each volunteer then assigned a score ranging from 1 to 5 to each of the effects listed in Table 5 below and according to the criteria specified below.
[0131] [Tableau 5] [0131] [Table 5]
[0132] Résultats [0133] La moyenne des résultats obtenue, pour quatre mesures effectuées, pour chacun des critères est exprimée dans le tableau 6 ci-dessous. [0132] Results [0133] The average of the results obtained, for four measurements carried out, for each of the criteria is expressed in table 6 below.
[0134] [Tableau 6] [0135] La composition sous forme de spray selon l’invention présente sur la peau pendant l’application une très bonne fraicheur et une très bonne uniformité, sans coloration de la peau. Après deux minutes d’application, elle ne présente pas de brillance ni de toucher gras, n’est pas collante et donne une sensation de seconde peau. [0134] [Table 6] [0135] The composition in spray form according to the invention presents on the skin during application a very good freshness and a very good uniformity, without coloring the skin. After two minutes of application, it does not present any shine or greasy feel, is not sticky and gives a second skin sensation.
Exemple 4 : Evaluation de la granulométrie des gouttelettes obtenue du spray selon l’invention Example 4: Evaluation of the particle size of the droplets obtained from the spray according to the invention
[0136] Deux pompes commercialisées par la société SILGAN Dispensing ont été testées pour mesurer la granulométrie de la composition selon l’invention. La pompe 1 est la pompe SP22 Panache Dosage 130 pl et la pompe 2 est la pompe Panache 40° Actuator. Les résultats obtenus sont présentés dans le tableau 7. [0136] Two pumps marketed by the company SILGAN Dispensing were tested to measure the particle size of the composition according to the invention. Pump 1 is the SP22 Panache Dosage 130 pl pump and pump 2 is the Panache 40° Actuator pump. The results obtained are presented in Table 7.
[0137] [Tableau 7] [0137] [Table 7]
[0138] La composition de l’invention respecte les conditions du règlement Cosmétique CE 1223/2009 en vigueur. La composition est donc conforme d’un point de vue réglementaire et respecte l’intégrité de la peau des utilisateurs. Le produit est donc conforme à son utilisation pour la santé humaine. D’autres propriétés comme couvrant le spectre dans la lumière visible ont montré une efficacité significative. [0138] The composition of the invention complies with the conditions of the Cosmetic Regulation EC 1223/2009 in force. The composition is therefore compliant from a regulatory point of view and respects the integrity of the users' skin. The product is therefore compliant with its use for human health. Other properties such as covering the spectrum in visible light have shown significant effectiveness.
Exemple 5 : Tests comparatifs de stabilité, performances SPE - UVA, sensorialité et sprayabilité Example 5: Comparative tests of stability, SPE - UVA performance, sensoriality and sprayability
[0139] La composition biphasique C selon l’invention de l’exemple 1 a été comparée à 5 compositions biphasiques dans lesquelles le filtre TDSA (UVA) est absent, afin de montrer l’importance de ce filtre particulier sur les propriétés de la composition de l’invention. En particulier, les propriétés suivantes ont été évaluées : stabilité de la formule, performances SPF et UVA, impact sur la sensorialité, et impact sur la spray abilité. [0139] The biphasic composition C according to the invention of example 1 was compared to 5 biphasic compositions in which the TDSA (UVA) filter is absent, in order to show the importance of this particular filter on the properties of the composition of the invention. In particular, the following properties were evaluated: stability of the formula, SPF and UVA performance, impact on sensoriality, and impact on sprayability.
[0140] Les formulations biphasiques comparées sont les suivantes : composition C (exemple 1), selon l’invention ; composition El : suppression des 4% de TDSA de la composition C, remplacés par 4% d’eau ; composition E2 : suppression des 4% de TDSA de la composition C, remplacés par 4% répartis sur les 3 filtres UV de la phase lipophile ; composition E3 : suppression des 4% de TDSA de la composition C, remplacés par 4% répartis sur les 3 filtres UV de la phase lipophile et augmentation des émollients (dans la phase lipophile) proportionnellement à l'augmentation des filtres pour mieux les solubiliser ; composition E4 : suppression des 4% de TDSA (filtre UVA) de la composition C, remplacés par 4% de DHHB seul (filtre UVA de la phase lipophile) ; composition E5 : suppression des 4% de TDSA (filtre UVA) de la composition C, remplacés par 4% de DHHB seul (filtre UVA de la phase lipophile) augmentation des émollients (dans la phase lipophile) proportionnellement à l'augmentation du DHHB pour mieux le solubiliser . [0140] The biphasic formulations compared are as follows: composition C (example 1), according to the invention; composition E1: removal of the 4% of TDSA from composition C, replaced by 4% of water; composition E2: removal of the 4% of TDSA from composition C, replaced by 4% distributed over the 3 UV filters of the lipophilic phase; composition E3: removal of the 4% of TDSA from composition C, replaced by 4% distributed over the 3 UV filters of the lipophilic phase and increase in emollients (in the lipophilic phase) proportionally to the increase in filters to better solubilize them; composition E4: removal of the 4% of TDSA (UVA filter) from composition C, replaced by 4% of DHHB alone (UVA filter of the lipophilic phase); composition E5: removal of 4% TDSA (UVA filter) from composition C, replaced by 4% DHHB alone (UVA filter of the lipophilic phase) increase in emollients (in the lipophilic phase) proportionally to the increase in DHHB to better solubilize it.
[0141] Les compositions E1-E5 ont été préparée selon le même mode opératoire que celui décrit dans l’exemple 1 pour la composition C. Les compositions finales de C et LIES sont détaillées dans le tableau 8, exprimées en pourcentages massiques par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [0141] Compositions E1-E5 were prepared according to the same procedure as that described in Example 1 for composition C. The final compositions of C and LIES are detailed in Table 8, expressed as mass percentages relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0142] [Tableau s] [0142] [Table s]
[0143] Stabilité : [0143] Stability:
[0144] La stabilité des compositions biphasiques C et E1-E5 a été évaluée à température ambiante et à +4°C pendant 14 jours. En particulier, l’aspect macroscopiques des phases aqueuse, grasse et en association dans le produit fini a été observé. On considère qu’il y a stabilité lorsqu’on observe la non-cristallisation des filtres dans la phase aqueuse et/ou la phase huileuse et/ou dans le produit biphasique. A contrario, la formule est considérée comme n’étant pas stable lorsque les filtres cristallisent dans les conditions de test. [0144] The stability of the two-phase compositions C and E1-E5 was evaluated at room temperature and at +4°C for 14 days. In particular, the macroscopic appearance of the aqueous, fatty and combination phases in the finished product was observed. Stability is considered to exist when the non-crystallization of the filters in the aqueous phase and/or the oil phase and/or in the biphasic product. Conversely, the formula is considered not to be stable when the filters crystallize under the test conditions.
[0145] La composition selon l’invention est restée stable à température ambiante et à +4°C pendant les 14 jours du test. [0145] The composition according to the invention remained stable at room temperature and at +4°C during the 14 days of the test.
[0146] Au contraire, pour les compositions E1-E5, il a été observé une cristallisation systématique dans la phase hydroalcoolique A comprenant le filtre PBSA, en l’absence du TDSA. De plus, il a été observé systématiquement un trouble de la phase lipophile dans les compositions biphasiques E1-E5. [0146] On the contrary, for compositions E1-E5, systematic crystallization was observed in the hydroalcoholic phase A comprising the PBSA filter, in the absence of TDSA. In addition, a disorder of the lipophilic phase was systematically observed in the biphasic compositions E1-E5.
[0147] Impact sur les performances SPF - UVA : [0147] Impact on SPF - UVA performance:
[0148] L’index de protection solaire (SPF) et UVA a été déterminé pour toutes les compositions, comme reporté dans le tableau 9. Les mesures ont été effectuée selon la méthode ISO24443 adaptée au SPF in vitro, su un Labsphere US-2000S (spectrophotomètre UV). [0148] The sun protection index (SPF) and UVA were determined for all compositions, as reported in Table 9. The measurements were carried out according to the ISO24443 method adapted to in vitro SPF, on a Labsphere US-2000S (UV spectrophotometer).
[0149] [Tableau 9] [0149] [Table 9]
[0150] Les compositions comparatives permettent d’obtenir de meilleurs SPF d’une manière générale et le remplacement du TDSA par le DHHB dans les compositions E4 et E5 permet d’obtenir une meilleure valeur UVA. [0150] The comparative compositions allow to obtain better SPFs in general and the replacement of TDSA by DHHB in compositions E4 and E5 allows to obtain a better UVA value.
[0151] Cependant, comme mis en évidence ci-dessus, ces performances SPF et UVA sont au détriment de la stabilité des formulations. [0151] However, as highlighted above, these SPF and UVA performances are at the expense of the stability of the formulations.
[0152] Impact sur la sensorialité : [0152] Impact on sensoriality:
[0153] Les compositions C et E1-E5 ont été testées selon la méthode de l’exemple 3. [0153] Compositions C and E1-E5 were tested according to the method of Example 3.
[0154] La composition C présente les meilleurs résultats et la composition El donne des résultats similaires, alors que les compositions E2-E5 donnent de moins bons résultats. Par ordre de résultats sur la sensorialité, les compositions peuvent être classées de la manière suivante : C >= El > E2 > E4 > E3 >= E5. [0154] Composition C shows the best results and composition El gives similar results, while compositions E2-E5 give less good results. In order of results on sensoriality, the compositions can be classified as follows: C >= El > E2 > E4 > E3 >= E5.
[0155] Les moins bons résultats des compositions E2-E5 peuvent s’expliquer en raison de l’augmentation de la proportion de phase lipophile, qui passe de 34,7% dans les compositions C et El à 50,4% dans les compositions E3 et E5. [0155] The poorer results of compositions E2-E5 can be explained by the increase in the proportion of lipophilic phase, which increases from 34.7% in compositions C and E1 to 50.4% in compositions E3 and E5.
[0156] Impact sur la sprayabilité [0156] Impact on sprayability
[0157] Les compositions C et E1-E5 ont été testées comparativement dans un même modèle de flacon pompe de 50mL. Après agitation du flacon, les compositions ont été pulvérisées en 5 sprays à partir du flacon positionné verticalement à environ 15-20 cm d’une surface plane verticale. [0157] Compositions C and E1-E5 were tested comparatively in the same 50mL pump bottle model. After shaking the bottle, the compositions were sprayed in 5 sprays from the bottle positioned vertically approximately 15-20 cm from a vertical flat surface.
[0158] La composition C présente les meilleurs résultats et la composition El donne des résultats similaires, alors que les compositions E2-E5 donnent de moins bons résultats. Par ordre de résultats sur la sprayabilité, les compositions peuvent être classées de la manière suivante : C >= El > E2 > E4 > E3 >= E5. [0158] Composition C shows the best results and composition E1 gives similar results, while compositions E2-E5 give less good results. In order of results on sprayability, the compositions can be classified as follows: C >= E1 > E2 > E4 > E3 >= E5.
[0159] Comme pour la sensorialité, les moins bons résultats des compositions E2-E5 en sprayabilité peuvent s’expliquer en raison de l’augmentation de la proportion de phase lipophile. [0159] As for sensoriality, the poorer results of compositions E2-E5 in sprayability can be explained by the increase in the proportion of lipophilic phase.
[0160] Conclusion : [0160] Conclusion:
[0161] Ces tests comparatifs mettent en évidence que le choix des 5 filtres UV présents dans la composition biphasique de l’invention, EHT/BEMT/DHHB en phase lipophile et PBSA/TDSA en phase aqueuse, est le résultat d’un choix raisonné et non arbitraire. La répartition des filtres sélectionnés entre les deux phases s’est avéré le meilleur compromis entre la stabilité de la formule, sa performance SPF et UVA et la qualité de la délivrance en spray brume permettant une application homogène et agréable sensoriellement sur le visage. [0161] These comparative tests highlight that the choice of the 5 UV filters present in the biphasic composition of the invention, EHT/BEMT/DHHB in the lipophilic phase and PBSA/TDSA in the aqueous phase, is the result of a reasoned and not arbitrary choice. The distribution of the filters selected between the two phases proved to be the best compromise between the stability of the formula, its SPF and UVA performance and the quality of the delivery in spray mist allowing a homogeneous and sensorially pleasant application on the face.
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Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20100209463A1 (en) * | 2007-07-26 | 2010-08-19 | Merck Patent Gmbh | Uv filter capsule |
| WO2021102113A1 (en) | 2019-11-20 | 2021-05-27 | Coty Inc. | Sunscreen compositions with multiple photoprotecting uv filters |
| US20210315796A1 (en) * | 2020-04-10 | 2021-10-14 | Rodan & Fields, Llc | Biphasic topical compositions and methods of use |
| US11266590B2 (en) * | 2018-08-23 | 2022-03-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin care composition |
| WO2023049821A1 (en) * | 2021-09-23 | 2023-03-30 | Edgewell Personal Care Brands, Llc | Sunscreen composition with crystalline organic sunscreen filters |
| WO2023134886A1 (en) * | 2022-01-11 | 2023-07-20 | Basf Se | Skin microbiome friendly sunscreens |
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| US20100209463A1 (en) * | 2007-07-26 | 2010-08-19 | Merck Patent Gmbh | Uv filter capsule |
| US11266590B2 (en) * | 2018-08-23 | 2022-03-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin care composition |
| WO2021102113A1 (en) | 2019-11-20 | 2021-05-27 | Coty Inc. | Sunscreen compositions with multiple photoprotecting uv filters |
| US20210315796A1 (en) * | 2020-04-10 | 2021-10-14 | Rodan & Fields, Llc | Biphasic topical compositions and methods of use |
| WO2023049821A1 (en) * | 2021-09-23 | 2023-03-30 | Edgewell Personal Care Brands, Llc | Sunscreen composition with crystalline organic sunscreen filters |
| WO2023134886A1 (en) * | 2022-01-11 | 2023-07-20 | Basf Se | Skin microbiome friendly sunscreens |
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