WO2025073582A1 - Aqueous composition comprising a fatty acid monoester, a neutralized anionic surfactant, a liquid polyester derived from a dimer diol and from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol - Google Patents

Abstract

Aqueous composition comprising a fatty acid monoester, a neutralized anionic surfactant, a liquid polyester derived from a dimer diol and from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I) below: [Chem 1] in which R₁ and R₂ are linear and saturated and, independently of one another, have a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R₁ representing an acyl radical and R₂ representing an alkyl radical; and (2) at least one anionic surfactant; and (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant; and (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (dimer diol), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C₁₆-C₃₂ alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water; and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase; and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

Description

Aqueous composition comprising a fatty acid monoester, a neutralized anionic surfactant, a liquid polyester derived from a dimer diol and from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol

The present invention relates to the field of caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and is directed towards proposing compositions more particularly intended for making up the eyelashes or the eyebrows.

In general, compositions intended for making up keratin fibres, for example the eyelashes, aim to densify the thickness and the visual perception of the eyelashes and ultimately the gaze. These mascaras are described as aqueous or cream mascaras when they are formulated in an aqueous base, and anhydrous mascaras when they are formulated as a dispersion in an organic solvent medium.

A great diversity of cosmetic effects may be afforded by applying a mascara to keratin fibres and notably the eyelashes, for instance a volumizing, lengthening, thickening and more particularly loading makeup effect.

These effects are mostly adjusted through the amount and nature of the particles and most particularly those of the waxes present in the mascaras. In general, mascaras in fact have a significant amount of wax(es) and notably from 10% to 35% by weight of waxes, more generally from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight thereof.

For obvious reasons, improving mascara textures which determine the manifestation of one or more makeup effects is a constant preoccupation of cosmetic formulators.

Moreover, the specific effects associated with a particular formulation, for example loading and moreover providing excellent separation of the made-up eyelashes, are expected to be reproduced virtually identically by all the production batches of one and the same formulation.

In order to meet these expectations and/or objectives, it is therefore necessary to be capable of precisely adjusting the texture of a mascara and of reproducing it as faithfully as possible with batches that are not necessarily produced at the same time but that are identical in terms of ingredients and must therefore provide makeup effects that are in theory also identical.

In addition, consumer expectations are for a mascara with good wear performance, that is to say a mascara that withstands friction (absence of grains also called “flakes”).

Prior art

However, as specified above, most of the mascaras currently available are formulated with a significant amount of waxes. In point of fact, as detailed in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002/14356007.a28.pub2, most waxes are not constituted of a single chemical compound, but are instead complex mixtures. They may be mixtures of oligomers and/or of polymers which, in many cases, also have varied molar masses, varied molar mass distributions and also varied degrees of branching. Thus, a polar wax is conventionally made up of a mixture of alkanes, fatty alcohols and fatty esters, the fatty-chain length of which varies according to the melting point.

It is therefore very difficult for the producers of these waxes to guarantee a rigorously identical composition for all production batches. More specifically, there may be, between several production batches of one and the same wax, a variability in terms of the chemical nature of some of its constituent compounds. Similarly, the proportionality of some of its constituent compounds may also vary between production batches.

For obvious reasons, these variabilities have a not insignificant impact on the properties of the wax and therefore on those of the mascara incorporating this wax in significant amounts. Thus, two mascara formulations of identical composition and therefore produced from one and the same conventional wax and in the same amount can nevertheless differ in terms of rheological properties and therefore texture and mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on keratin fibres, such as resistance to flaking (presence of grains also known as flakes), if they were produced from two separate production batches of this wax.

Consequently, the use of conventional waxes, in particular in significant amounts, in mascara compositions does not make it possible to guarantee for users the reproduction of the finely adjusted and totally identical rheological properties and mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on keratin fibres, such as flake resistance, in all the mascara specimens of one and the same composition.

In patent applications FR3080034, EP3781118, EP3897859, EP3897558 and EP3897519, aqueous compositions, notably mascaras, were proposed comprising at least one fatty acid monoester such as behenyl behenate, at least one fatty acid containing from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, at least one base that is capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, at least one base that is capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, and pigments, notably iron oxides. However, these compositions are not entirely satisfactory in terms of the stability of the evolution of the consistency over time, notably over several days and according to temperature variations.

Aqueous mascaras comprising behenyl behenate, a fatty acid, a neutralizing base, a semicrystalline polymer, a fatty alcohol and a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil are known in patent FR3090334.

Aqueous mascaras are known on the market:
- the commercial product Be Bold Color Mascara (Mintel ID 5676593) containing behenyl behenate, neutralized stearic acid, waxes and black iron oxides;
- the commercial product Super Drama Volume and Lengthening Waterproof Mascara from Avon (Mintel ID 20600879) containing behenyl behenate, neutralized stearic acid, waxes and black iron oxides;
- the commercial product Stunning Extra Lush Mascara from Ying Te Li Cosmetics (Mintel ID 8372591) containing behenyl behenate, potassium cetyl phosphate neutralized with a base, waxes, black iron oxides and vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer.

In the course of its research, the applicant found that these compositions were not entirely satisfactory as regards the mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on keratin fibres, in particular the resistance to flaking.

Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to obtain mascara compositions for which the mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on keratin fibres, such as the resistance to flaking, are finely adjustable and reproducible.

Another objective of the present invention is to provide a mascara architecture produced using a predominant weight proportion of single-component ingredients. The predominant use of single-component ingredients advantageously makes it possible to eliminate the risk of composition variability that may exist between several production batches of a multicomponent ingredient and therefore to eliminate its impact on the final properties of the mascara.

Another objective of the present invention is to provide a mascara architecture which makes it possible to significantly reduce or even dispense with the use of waxes, but which nevertheless remains very satisfactory in terms of makeup effect.

In the course of their research, the inventors discovered, unexpectedly, that the aims as defined previously were achieved by using a composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I) below:
[Chem 1]
(I)
in which R₁ and R₂ are linear and saturated and, independently of one another, have a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R₁ representing an acyl radical and R₂ representing an alkyl radical; and
(2) at least one anionic surfactant; and
(3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant; and
(4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (dimer diol), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C₁₆-C₃₂, preferably C₁₆-C₂₂, alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
(5) water; and
(6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase; and
(7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have in fact observed that the formulation comprising at least one linear fatty acid monoester (1), at least one anionic surfactant (2) in a form partially or totally neutralized by a base (3), at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer (4), water (5), at least one film-forming polymer (6) in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase and at least one water-soluble liquid polyol (7) makes it possible to produce, after application to keratin materials such as the eyelashes, a deposit having good resistance to flaking.

Furthermore, the consistency and mechanical properties of the deposit of the formulation on the keratin fibres can be finely adjusted and guaranteed in terms of reproducibility.

As emerges from what follows, these new compositions are advantageous in several respects.

First of all, compounds (1) to (7) required according to the invention are as an individualized compound, a single-component compound or a compound with a well-defined number of components, as opposed to the majority of conventional waxes which are often multicomponent or even have an indefinite number of compounds, such as natural waxes and some synthetic waxes.

These two specificities are particularly advantageous since they make it possible to eliminate a risk of variability with regard to their respective compositions.

As emerges from the examples below, the compositions in accordance with the invention and based on the use of compounds (1) as texturing agent prove to be very satisfactory in terms of makeup effects.

Thus, compositions according to the invention may have a creamy texture which proves to be finely adjustable by virtue of the use of the required combination according to the invention.

The obtention of these properties is conditioned by the use of the compounds (1) to (7) and advantageously does not therefore require the additional presence of waxes, in particular in significant amounts.

Thus, the compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise less than 5% of waxes as defined below.

The term “waxes” refers to lipophilic compounds, which are solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 40°C, which may be up to 120°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the waxes to which this abovementioned amount limitation relates are distinct from those capable of being embodied by the component which is a monoester of fatty acid(s) (1) required according to the invention and additives of the fatty alcohol type.

This discovery forms the basis of the invention.

Subjects of the invention

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I) below:
[Chem 1]
(I)
in which R₁ and R₂ are linear and saturated and, independently of one another, have a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R₁ representing an acyl radical and R₂ representing an alkyl radical; and
(2) at least one anionic surfactant; and
(3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant; and
(4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (dimer diol), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C₁₆-C₃₂, preferably C₁₆-C₂₂, alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
(5) water; and
(6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase; and
(7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

A second subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin, notably the contour of the eyes, the contour of the eyelashes, the contour of the eyebrows; keratin fibres such as the eyelashes and the eyebrows, which consists in applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined previously.

Definitions

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” notably means the skin, notably the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows; keratin fibres such as the eyelashes and the eyebrows. For the purposes of the present invention, this term “keratin fibres” also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.

The term “physiologically acceptable” means compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process, notably a cosmetic process, for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows, comprising at least one step which consists in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.

The term “particulate matter” is intended to mean any compound in the form of particles which are insoluble and dispersible in the composition of the invention.

Fatty acid monoester (1)

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear fatty acid monoester (1).

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 6.0% by weight, better still at least 7.0% by weight of linear fatty acid monoester(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particularly preferred mode of the invention, the fatty acid monoester(s) (1) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 6.0% to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 7.0% to 30.0% by weight, or even preferably from 8.0% to 28.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The linear fatty acid monoester(s) (1) considered according to the invention correspond to formula (I) below:
[Chem 1]

(I)
in which R₁ and R₂ are linear and saturated and have, independently of one another, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R₁ representing an acyl radical, and R₂ representing an alkyl radical.

This or these fatty acid monoester(s) (1) is (are) used during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, in an individualized form or in the form of a mixture exclusively comprising linear fatty acid monoesters of formula (I).

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid monoester(s) (1) has (have) a melting point above 50°C.

The melting point may be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the acyl and alkyl radicals representing respectively R₁ and R₂ are chosen in such a way that the compound (I) is solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 30°C.

According to one particularly preferred mode of the invention, R₁ and R₂ are, respectively, acyl and alkyl radicals having a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 30, preferably from 20 to 24.

According to a particularly preferred mode, R₁ and R₂ are, respectively, acyl and alkyl radicals having the same number of carbon atoms.

In particular, the fatty acid monoester according to the invention is chosen from arachidyl arachidate and behenyl behenate.

According to one particularly preferred mode of the invention, the linear fatty acid monoester is a behenyl behenate.

A behenyl behenate that is suitable for use in the composition according to the invention may notably be Kester Wax K-72® sold by Koster Keunen, Dub BB® sold by Stéarinerie Dubois, or Dermowax BB® sold by Alzo.

Anionic surfactant (2)

As specified above, the fatty acid monoester(s) (1) used according to the invention are combined with at least one anionic surfactant (2) that is partially or totally neutralized with a base (3).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “surfactant” means an amphiphilic chemical compound, that is to say a compound having in its structure two parts of different polarity. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term “HLB” is well known to a person skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).

According to one preferential form of the invention, the anionic surfactants in accordance with the invention have an HLB greater than or equal to 8. The HLB of the anionic surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method.

The term “anionic surfactant” means any negatively charged amphiphilic molecule.

According to one preferred mode of the invention, the anionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 3.5% to 20.0% by weight, more preferentially from 4.0% to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The anionic surfactant(s) (2) in accordance with the invention is (are) preferably chosen from:
i. mono(C₁₂-C₂₀)alkyl phosphates;
ii. alkyl sulfates, and in particular alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates;
iii. alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates;
iv. alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates;
v. acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates;
vi. fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms;
vii. mixtures thereof.

According to a particular form of the invention, said anionic surfactant(s) (2) is (are) chosen from:
- mono(C₁₂-C₂₀)alkyl phosphates;
- fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms;
- mixtures thereof.

Use will be made more particularly of fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms.

a) Mono(C12-C20)alkyl phosphates

The designation “monoalkyl” means that the phosphate element is linked to a single C₁₂-C₂₀ alkyl chain, unless otherwise specified. The monoalkyl phosphate(s) (including phosphine oxide(s)) that may be used in the compositions according to the present patent application is/are chosen from C₁₄-C₂₀ and preferably C₁₆-C₁₈ monoalkyl phosphates and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, they are chosen from monocetyl phosphate, monostearyl phosphate and monocetearyl phosphate.

In particular, use will be made of the anionic surfactant in its form neutralized with potassium hydroxide (KOH), namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate having the INCI name Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, for example sold under the names Amphisol K® (DSM Nutritional Products), Amphisol A® (DSM Nutritional Products), Arlatone MAP® (Uniqema), Crodafos MCA® (Croda).

b) Fatty acid having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms

The fatty acid according to the invention comprises from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid comprises from 16 to less than 20 carbon atoms. According to a particularly preferred mode, the number of carbon atoms ranges from 16 to 18.

In particular, the fatty acid(s) according to the invention is/are chosen from linear fatty acids, saturated fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

According to one particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid of the ionic surfactant is linear and saturated.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid(s) is (are) chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof, and preferably comprises at least stearic acid having the INCI name Stearic Acid.

Thus, according to another embodiment of the invention, the composition uses, as fatty acid (2), a mixture of C₁₆-C₁₈ fatty acids, preferably a mixture of fatty acids containing 16 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, and of fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid.

A preferred stearic acid that is suitable for use in the invention is, for example, Stearic Acid 1850® sold by Southern Acids or the product STEARINE TP 1200 PASTILLES® (DUB 50P®) by Stéarinerie Dubois.

Base (3)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one base (3). This base may be organic or inorganic.

According to a first variant, the base (3) is at least one organic base.

Preferably, the base of organic origin is chosen from amino acids such as arginine; alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol; primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines such as 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol (also known as tromethamine) and aminomethylpropanediol; and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the base is a primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine.

According to another particular embodiment, the base is an amino acid, in particular arginine.

The term “primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine” in particular means a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that the term “primary” means a primary amine function, i.e. -NH₂, the alkyl group being a linear or branched C₁-C₈ and preferably a branched C₄ hydrocarbon-based chain, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl. The primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is preferentially 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine (also known as aminomethylpropanediol or AMPD).

According to one preferred mode of the invention, the base of organic origin is aminomethylpropanediol.

Such an aminomethylpropanediol that is suitable for use in the invention is, for example, AMPD Ultra PC® sold by Angus (Dow Corning).

According to a second variant, the base is at least one inorganic base.

This inorganic base is chosen from alkaline metal hydroxides and ammonium (NH₄ ⁺).

Preferably, the inorganic base is chosen from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of base is adjusted so as to obtain sufficient neutralization to confer effective ionicity on the associated fatty acid (2).

Preferably, the base (3) is present in an amount sufficient to neutralize some or all of the carboxylic functions of the fatty acid(s) (2) comprising from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms.

For example, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 0.1% by weight, better still at least 0.15% by weight, of base(s) (3), relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred mode of the invention, the base (3) is present in a content ranging from 0.2% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 2.0% by weight of base(s), in particular of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aminomethylpropanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The anionic surfactant (2) and the base (3) making up the neutralized ionic surfactant according to the invention may be introduced into the composition in the form of one and the same commercial material, or one after the other in the form of two distinct commercial materials.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant (2) and the base (3) will be introduced into the composition in the form of two distinct commercial materials.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least the stearic acid anionic surfactant having the INCI name Stearic Acid neutralized with aminomethylpropanediol.

According to another particular mode of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least the monocetyl phosphate anionic surfactant in its form neutralized with potassium hydroxide (KOH), namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate, having the INCI name Potassium Cetyl Phosphate.

According to another particular mode of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one mixture of monocetyl phosphate potassium salt, having the INCI name Potassium Cetyl Phosphate and stearic acid neutralized with aminomethylpropanediol.

Liquid polyester (4)

As indicated above, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (dimer diol), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C₁₆-C₃₂ and preferably C₁₆-C₂₂ alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

“Liquid polyester” is understood to mean a polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at ambient temperature (25°C).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “dimer diol” more particularly denotes saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined previously.

It should be noted that the dimer diol may also consist of other components, for example a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and compounds of ether type, depending on the degree of purification of the dimer acid and/or of the lower alcohol ester thereof, used as starting material. It is possible to use products of which the dimer diol content is greater than 70% by weight, but it is preferred to use a dimer diol of high purity, such as a compound in which the dimer diol content is greater than 90% by weight.

Thus, a dimer diol can be produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, in particular a C₁₆ to C₃₂ fatty acid, such as those mentioned above, in particular a C₁₆ to C₂₂ fatty acid and more particularly a C₁₈ fatty acid.

According to a specific embodiment, the dimer diol is derived from the hydrogenation of the acid functions of dilinoleic diacid.

More particularly, it is the dimer diol obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, followed by hydrogenation of the acid functions. The dimer diol may be in the saturated form, i.e. not including any carbon-carbon double bonds. According to another embodiment, the possible carbon-carbon double bonds of the dimer diol are totally or partially hydrogenated, after esterification reaction of the diacid dimer with the dimer diol. The hydrogenated forms, notably the totally hydrogenated forms, are preferred.

In the context of the present invention, the term “unsaturated fatty acid” denotes fatty acids comprising 1 to 6 unsaturations (carbon-carbon double bonds).

As representatives of these unsaturated fatty acids, mention may notably be made of palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof.

The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is more particularly obtained by an intermolecular polymerization reaction, notably a dimerization reaction, of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. It is derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, notably a C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acid and more particularly a C₁₈ fatty acid.

Advantageously, the liquid polyester (4) used in the present invention is obtained from a diacid dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, optionally followed by total or partial, advantageously total, hydrogenation of the carbon-carbon bonds.

It may also be obtained from a mixture containing same. In such a case, it is preferred to use a mixture in which the content of this diacid dimer is greater than 70%, more particularly greater than 90% by weight, or even more preferentially greater than 95% by weight; the remainder of the mixture possibly being trimers and/or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000 g/mol, preferably between 1000 and 2000 g/mol and preferentially between 1200 and 1800 g/mol.

More particularly, the polyesters (4) have a viscosity of between 3000 and 400,000 mm²/s (cSt) at 40°C.

As illustrations of esters that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the following products (INCI name): Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, notably sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5^® and DD-DA7^®.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight of liquid polyester(s) as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester (4) in a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, more particularly between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water (5)

A composition according to the invention comprises water (5).

The term “aqueous phase” means a phase comprising water and also optionally all the solvents and ingredients that are water-soluble or water-miscible (water miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol or isopropanol.

The aqueous phase may contain a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of from 50% to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming polymer (6) in aqueous suspension

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer (6) in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase of the composition.

In the present patent application, the term “film-forming polymer” is understood to mean a polymer capable of forming, by itself alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at a temperature of 20°C.

Said solid particles of film-forming polymer (6) can either be used as is and are in suspension in the aqueous phase of the composition or can be used in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion (latex or pseudolatex).

Such a film-forming polymer (6) present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion is generally named (pseudo)latex, that is to say latex or pseudolatex. Techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to a person skilled in the art.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more types of particle, these particles possibly varying as regards their size, their structure and/or their chemical nature.

The film-forming polymer(s) (6) can be present in a solids content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

These solid particles may be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and may constitute a mixture of solid particles of different natures.

In the present invention, the term “aqueous” is understood to mean a liquid medium based on water and/or on hydrophilic solvents. This aqueous liquid medium may be constituted essentially of water. It may also comprise a mixture of water and of water-miscible organic solvent(s) (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), such as lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C₃-C₄ ketones or C₂-C₄ aldehydes.

Mention may be made, among the film-forming polymers (6) which can be used in the composition of the present invention, of synthetic polymers of radical or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof. In general, these polymers may be statistical polymers, block copolymers of A-B type, of A-B-A or also ABCD, etc. multiblock type, or even grafted polymers.

Radical film-forming polymer

The term “radical polymer” means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated and especially ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The film-forming polymers (6) of radical type may in particular be acrylic and/or vinyl homopolymers or copolymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers (6) may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or of esters of these acid monomers and/or of the amides of these acid monomers.

Ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer bearing an acid group that may be used include α,β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid. (Meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used in particular, and more particularly (meth)acrylic acid.

The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from (meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates), especially (meth)acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a C₁-C₂₀ and more particularly C₁-C₈ alkyl, (meth)acrylates of an aryl, in particular of a C₆-C₁₀ aryl, and (meth)acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl, in particular of a C₂-C₆ hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The (meth)acrylic acid esters are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.

Examples of amides of acid monomers that may be mentioned are (meth)acrylamides, and notably N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in particular C₂-C₁₂ alkyl (meth)acrylamides. Among the N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides that may be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide and N-t-octylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amides thereof, such as those mentioned previously.

Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned are vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate.

Styrene monomers that may be mentioned include styrene and α-methylstyrene.

The list of monomers given is not limiting, and it is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art included in the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain).

Mention may also be made of polymers resulting from radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers inside and/or partially at the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group constituted of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and/or alkyds. These polymers are generally referred to as “hybrid polymers”.

Polycondensate

Mention may be made, as film-forming polymer (6) of polycondensate type, of polyurethanes which are anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyesters-polyurethanes, polyethers-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyureas-polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polyurethane can, for example, be an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic polyurethane, polyurea/urethane or polyurea copolymer comprising, alone or as a mixture, at least one block chosen from:
- a block of aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic polyester origin, and/or
- a branched or unbranched silicone block, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and/or
- a block comprising fluoro groups.

The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens, which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a difunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or alternatively a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

Mention may also be made, among the film-forming polycondensates, of polyesters, polyesteramides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides and epoxyester resins.

The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids that may be mentioned include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, the ones chosen in particular are phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic diols. The diol used is chosen in particular from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol and 4-butanediol. Other polyols that may be used are glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane.

The polyesteramides may be obtained in a manner analogous to that of the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. Diamines that may be used are ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine and meta- or para-phenylenediamine. An amino alcohol that may be used is monoethanolamine.

Use will be made, as specific form of polycondensate film-forming polymer, of a polyester-polyurethane in aqueous dispersion with the INCI name: Polyurethane-35, such as the commercial product Baycusan C 1010/1®, and/or the product having the INCI name: Polyurethane-48, such as the commercial product Baycusan C 1008/1®, which are sold by Covestro.

Polymer of natural origin

Use may be made, in the present invention, of optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulose-based polymers, such as nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters, including in particular carboxyalkyl cellulose esters, such as those described in the patent application US2003/185774, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers and dispersions of particles of core-shell type, and mixtures thereof.

Various types of aqueous dispersions, notably commercial aqueous dispersions, which are suitable for the preparation of the composition in accordance with the present invention, are described in detail below.

1/ Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

The acrylic polymer can be a styrene/acrylate copolymer and especially a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C₁-C₁₈ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer. As styrene monomers that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include styrene and α-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

The C₁-C₁₈ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a C₁-C₁₂ alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly a C₁-C₁₀ alkyl (meth)acrylate. The C₁-C₁₈ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and stearyl (meth)acrylate.

As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use according to the invention:
- aqueous acrylic polymer dispersions sold under the names
Acronal DS-6250® by BASF, Neocryl A-45®, Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by DSM, Joncryl 95® and Joncryl 8211® by BASF, and Daitosol 5000 AD®, EPITEX 66 Polymer® in emulsion form by Dow Corning (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) or Daitosol 5000 SJ® (INCI name: Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer) by Daito Kasei Kogyo; Syntran 5760 CG® (INCI name: Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer) by Interpolymer.

2/ According to one embodiment variant of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and/or polyether-polyurethane particles, in particular in anionic form.

The anionic nature of the polyester-polyurethanes and of the polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups bearing a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function.

The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally sold in aqueous dispersion form.

The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions that may be used in the aqueous varnishes according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the dispersion sold under the name Avalure UR 405® by Noveon.

Among the dispersions of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the name Avalure UR 450® by Noveon, and under the name NeoRez R 970® by DSM, Baycusan C 1010® (INCI name: Polyurethane-35), such as the product sold under the name Baycusan C 1010/1®, and Baycusan C 1008/1® (INCI name: Polyurethane-48 (and) Methylpropanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenylpropanol), which are sold by Covestro.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, use may be made of a mixture of commercial dispersions constituted of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above.

For example, use may be made of a mixture constituted of the dispersion sold under the name Sancure 861® or a mixture of the dispersion sold under the name Avalure UR 405® and of the dispersion sold under the name Avalure UR 450®, these dispersions being sold by Noveon.

Mention may also made, as other examples of film-forming polymers in accordance with the invention, of:
- the polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid chosen from the acids as described in US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680, for instance those sold under the references Dow Corning 2-8179® and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant® by Dow Corning; the sequential copolymers of “diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type of the polystyrene/polyisoprene, polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as those sold under M 5960®.

As solid particles of film-forming polymer according to the invention, use may be made more preferentially of:
- aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer sold under the names Acronal DS-6250® by BASF, Neocryl A-45®, Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by DSM, Joncryl 95® and Joncryl 8211® by BASF, Daitosol 5000 AD® (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) or Daitosol 5000 SJ®, Epitex 66 Polymer® in emulsion form by Dow Corning (INCI name: Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer) by Daito Kasei Kogyo, Acudyne 5600P® and Acudyne 5800P® by Dow Chemical (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer);
- aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names
NeoRez R-981® and NeoRez R-974® by DSM, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875Ò, Avalure UR 445Ò, Avalure UR 450Ò by Noveon, Impranil 85Ò by Bayer, Baycusan C 1010® (INCI name: Polyurethane-35), such as the product sold under the name Baycusan C 1010/1®, and Baycusan C 1008/1® (INCI name: Polyurethane-48 (and) Methylpropanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenylpropanol), which are sold by Covestro,
- sulfopolyesters such as those sold under the brand name Eastman AQÒ by Eastman Chemical Products,
- vinyl dispersions such as Mexomere PAM®, aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as Vinybran® from Nisshin Chemical or those sold by Union Carbide, aqueous dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer such as
Styleze W® from ISP,
- aqueous dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymer such as those sold under the references Hybridur® by Air Products or Duromer® from National Starch,
- mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, one in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of acrylic film-forming polymer (6).

According to a particular form, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of acrylic film-forming polymer (6) having the INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer, such as the commercial product sold under the name Epitex 66 Polymer® in emulsion form by Dow Corning.

Water-soluble liquid polyol (7)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble liquid polyol (7).

The term “water-soluble liquid polyol” is intended to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (OH), which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure and water-miscible (water-miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

Among water-soluble polyols (7), mention may be made of compounds constituted of a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain comprising at least two OH functions. The alkyl chain preferably comprises from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 3 to 16, more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and glycerol (glycerine); polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol; polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferential form of the invention, the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) is 1,3-butylene glycol having the INCI name: Butylene Glycol.

Preferentially, the water-soluble liquid polyol(s) (7) is (are) present in the composition in contents ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% and more preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other components

In addition to the abovementioned compounds, a composition according to the invention may of course comprise secondary ingredients.

Fillers (8)

The compositions in accordance with the invention can also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, which makes it possible in particular to confer on them additional properties of improved stability, persistence, coverage and/or mattness.

The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, make it possible to confer body or firmness on the composition and/or softness and uniformity on the makeup.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention can be of lamellar, globular, spherical or fibrous forms or of any other form intermediate between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and the compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Mention may be made, as examples of inorganic fillers, of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, or hydrophobic silica aerogels.

Mention may be made, as examples of organic fillers, of powders formed of polyamide (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), of polyethylene, of polymethyl methacrylate, of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres, such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate/Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), or powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in the patent US 5 538 793. It can also be a cellulose powder, such as that sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads range.

b) Fatty alcohol (9)

Preferentially, the compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one fatty alcohol (9). A composition may therefore comprise a single fatty alcohol or several distinct fatty alcohols (9).

If several distinct fatty alcohols (9) are present, they can be added separately during the preparation of the composition and the mixture thereof can then be formed in situ. They can also be used in the form of a mixture which is already commercially available and in which the weight proportion and the degree of purity of each of the fatty alcohols are controlled. In other words, the composition of these mixtures is faithfully reproducible, as opposed to mixtures of fatty alcohols generated via synthesis from starting materials derived from complex mixtures.

The fatty alcohol(s) (9) is (are) in particular chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₄-C₃₀, preferably C₁₄-C₂₄, and even better still C₁₄-C₂₀, fatty alcohols.

The fatty alcohol(s) (9) is (are) in particular chosen from linear and saturated C₁₄-C₃₀ fatty alcohols, preferably linear and saturated C₁₄-C₂₄ fatty alcohols, and better still linear and saturated C₁₄-C₂₀ fatty alcohols.

According to one particularly preferred mode, the fatty alcohol (9) is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, and is preferably a mixture of several linear and saturated C₁₄-C₃₀, better still C₁₄-C₂₄, even better still C₁₄-C₂₀, fatty alcohols.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol (9) according to the invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18) and mixtures thereof (also known as cetearyl alcohol). Preferentially, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. Such a mixture is notably sold under the name Lannette O OR/MB® by BASF.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol (9) is solid at ambient temperature.

The fatty alcohol (9) is present in the compositions of the invention in amounts ranging from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0 to 15.0% by weight and even more particularly from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

c) Semicrystalline polymer (10)

According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one semicrystalline polymer (10).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 2.0% by weight, more preferentially from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.0% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0% to 15.0% by weight of semicrystalline polymer(s) (10), relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “polymers” is intended to mean compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “semicrystalline polymer” means polymers including a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion and having a first-order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). The crystallizable portion is preferably a chain that is lateral (or a chain that is pendent) relative to the backbone.

Aside from the crystallisable chains or blocks, the blocks of the polymers are amorphous.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “crystallizable chain or block” means a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of the invention, a chain is a group of atoms, which is pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone.

When the crystallizable portion is a chain that is pendent relative to the backbone, the semicrystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

Preferably, the semicrystalline polymer (10) has an organic structure.

The term “organic compound” or “having an organic structure” refers to compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N or P, alone or in combination.

The semicrystalline polymer(s) (10) according to the invention are solids at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), the melting point of which is greater than or equal to 30°C.

The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute (the melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak in the thermogram).

According to a particular embodiment, the semicrystalline polymer(s) (10) used in the composition of the invention have a melting point m.p. of less than 95°C, preferably less than 85°C. The semicrystalline polymer(s) may thus have a melting point m.p. ranging from 30 to 95°C and preferably from 40 to 85°C. This melting point is preferably a first-order change of state temperature.

According to the invention, the semicrystalline polymers (10) are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, notably to at least 1.0% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semicrystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point.

Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semicrystalline polymers (10) represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%.

When the semicrystalline polymers (10) of the invention are crystallizable block polymers, they may be block or multiblock copolymers. They may be obtained by polymerizing a monomer bearing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers bearing crystallizable side chains, these polymers are advantageously in random or statistical form.

Preferably, the semicrystalline polymers (10) of the invention are of synthetic origin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the semicrystalline polymer (10) is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers including units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s).

The semicrystalline polymers (10) that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers, in particular those bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, such as those described in US-A-5 156 911.

In a preferred embodiment, the crystallizable side chain(s) are hydrophobic.

These homo- or copolymers may result:
- from the polymerization, in particular the radical polymerization, of one or more monomers containing double bond(s) which is (are) reactive, or which are ethylenic, with respect to a polymerization, namely a vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allylic group,
- from the polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing co-reactive groups (carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), for instance polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers or polyureas.

In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semicrystalline polymers (10) according to the invention originate from monomer(s) with crystallizable block(s) or chain(s), used for the production of semicrystalline polymers. These polymers are preferably chosen notably from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing crystallizable chain(s) that may be represented by the formula below:
[Chem 2]

with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone, C representing a crystallizable group, and S representing a spacer, the crystallizable “-S-C” chains being hydrocarbon aliphatic or aromatic chains, including saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon alkyl chains, which are for example C₁₀-C₄₀, preferably C₁₀-C₃₀. “C” notably represents a linear or branched or cyclic group (CH₂)_n, with n being an integer ranging from 10 to 40. Preferably, “C” is a linear group. Preferably, “S” and “C” are different.

When the crystallizable chains are hydrocarbon aliphatic chains, they comprise hydrocarbon alkyl chains containing at least 10 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon atoms and better still not more than 30 carbon atoms. They are notably aliphatic chains or alkyl chains containing at least 10 carbon atoms, and they are preferably C₁₀-C₄₀ and preferably C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl chains.

Preferably, the crystallizable chains are C₁₀-C₃₀ aliphatic hydrocarbon chains.

As examples of semicrystalline homopolymers or copolymers containing crystallizable chain(s) that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates with the alkyl group being C₁₀-C₃₀, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with the alkyl group being C₁₀ to C₃₀, vinyl esters containing alkyl chains with the alkyl group being C₁₀ to C₃₀, vinyl ethers containing alkyl chains with the alkyl group being C₁₀ to C₃₀, C₁₀ to C₃₀ alpha-olefins, for instance octadecene, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group including from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the hydrocarbon crystallizable chains as defined above are borne by a monomer that may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.

When the polymers that are subjects of the invention are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0% to 50% of groups Y which is a polar monomer, a nonpolar monomer or a mixture of the two.

When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing polyoxyalkylene groups (notably oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), a hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, for instance hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, an N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an N,N-dialkyl(meth)acrylamide, for instance N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinylcaprolactam, a monomer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, for instance (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or bearing a carboxylic acid anhydride group, for instance maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

When Y is a nonpolar monomer, it may be an ester of the linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate type, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an alpha-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted with a C₁ to C₁₀ alkyl group, for instance α-methylstyrene, or a macromonomer of the polyorganosiloxane type containing vinyl unsaturation.

Preferably, the semicrystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chain(s) are alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl(meth)acrylamide homopolymers with an alkyl group as defined above, and notably of C₁₀-C₃₀, copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth)acrylic acid, for instance N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use the semicrystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and of acrylic acid or of N-vinylpyrrolidone, as described in US-A-5 519 063.

Advantageously, the semicrystalline polymer(s) containing crystallizable side chain(s) have a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 5000 g/mol to 1 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 g/mol to 800 000 g/mol, preferentially from 15 000 g/mol to 500 000 g/mol, and more preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 200 000 g/mol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the semicrystalline polymer (10) may be chosen from homo- and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing crystallizable side chain(s) chosen from saturated C₁₀ to C₃₀ alkyl (meth)acrylates, which can be represented by the following formula:
[Chem 3]

in which R₃ is H or CH₃, R₄ is a C₁₀ to C₃₀ alkyl group, and X is O.

According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the semicrystalline polymer (10) is derived from the polymerization of monomers containing crystallizable side chain(s) chosen from saturated C₁₀ to C₃₀ alkyl (meth)acrylates.

The semicrystalline polymers (10) containing a crystallizable side chain may be chosen from copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and C₁₀ to C₃₀ alkyl (meth)acrylate, in particular such as those described in patent US-A-5 156 911.

The semicrystalline polymers (10) may be in particular those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of patent US-A-5 156 911, and more particularly those obtained by copolymerization:
- of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of isodecyl acrylate in a 1/16/3 ratio,
- of acrylic acid and of pentadecyl acrylate in a 1/19 ratio,
- of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of ethyl acrylate in a 2.5/76.5/20 ratio,
- of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of methyl acrylate in a 5/85/10 ratio,
- of acrylic acid and of polyoctadecyl methacrylate in a 2.5/97.5 ratio.

As a particular example of a semicrystalline polymer (10) which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer® products from Landec described in the brochure Intelimer® Polymers, Landec IP22®. These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25°C). They bear crystallizable side chains. They are poly(C₁₀-C₃₀)alkyl acrylates, which are particularly suitable as semicrystalline polymers (10) that may be included in a composition in accordance with the present invention.

According to a particularly preferred mode of the invention, the semicrystalline polymer(s) (10) according to the invention are derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C₁₀ to C₃₀ alkyl (meth)acrylates and more particularly from poly(stearyl acrylate)s, poly(behenyl acrylate)s, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the semicrystalline polymers (10) suitable for use in the invention are those having the INCI name: Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, notably polystearyl acrylate, in particular the product sold under the name Tego SP 13-1 3® from Evonik Corporation, which is a polystearyl acrylate with a melting point of 49° ± 5°C, or polybehenyl acrylate, sold under the name Tego SP 13-6®, from Evonik Corporation, which is a polybehenyl acrylate with a melting point equal to 66° ± 5°C.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the semicrystalline polymer (10) is at least one poly(behenyl acrylate).

Examples of homopolymers or copolymers suitable as semicrystalline polymers (10) for the invention preferably comprise from 50% to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.

d) Liquid fatty phase

According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may also comprise a liquid fatty phase (11).

Such a liquid fatty phase is an organic phase that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), non-aqueous and water-immiscible.

The liquid fatty phase (11) may contain a non-volatile oil chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” is understood to mean an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

The term “non-volatile oil” is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5.0% by weight and more preferentially less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. In one particularly preferred mode of the invention, the composition is free of volatile oils.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” is understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, especially ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

e) Hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s)

According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer (12).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” means a water-soluble polymer.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “water-soluble polymer” is understood to mean a polymer which, when introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, gives a macroscopically homogeneous solution of which the light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “film-forming polymer” is understood to mean a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and even better still a deposit of which the cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolable and can be manipulable individually, for example when said deposit is prepared by pouring onto a nonstick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

The hydrophilic film-forming polymer present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from:
- proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soya proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolyzates and sulfonic keratins;
- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic polymers of chitin or chitosan;
- cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;
- acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;
- vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, copolymers of
vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
- polyesters, in particular anionic polyester and/or polyesteramide polymers, which are in particular water dispersible, comprising monomers bearing an: -SO₃M function, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH₄ ⁺ or a metal ion, for instance an Na⁺, Li⁺ , K⁺, Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺, Cu²⁺, Fe²⁺ or Fe³⁺ ion. Mention may be made in particular of the polymers described in documents US-3 734 874; US-4 233 196; US-4 304 901. Advantageously, film-forming polyester polymers based on at least one dicarboxylic acid, at least one diol and at least one bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally bearing an -SO₃M group as described above are chosen;
- fatty chain polyesters, polyamides and ester epoxy resins;
- polyurethane polymers, in particular anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea/polyurethanes;
- optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:
. gums arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;
. alginates and carrageenans;
. glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;
. shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals;
. deoxyribonucleic acid;
. muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate; and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the invention, a hydrophilic film-forming polymer (12) which is particularly advantageous is a hydroxyalkylcellulose, and more particularly a hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the commercial product Cellosize HEC QP-4400H Europe PCG® sold by Dow.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, better still from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) (12), relative to the total weight of the composition.

f) Non-ionic surfactants (13) with an HLB > 8

According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant (13) with an HLB greater than 8.0.

The term “non-ionic surfactant” is understood to mean a surfactant which does not comprise any ionically charged group in its chemical structure.

The non-ionic surfactant(s) preferentially used in the composition according to the invention is (are) chosen from:
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units;
- oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated alcohols, which may comprise, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, preferably from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols, and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-20), for instance Brij 78® sold by Uniqema, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol containing 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteareth-30) and the mixture of C₁₂-C₁₅ fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name C12-15 Pareth-7), such as that sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals;
- esters of in particular C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acids and of polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which may comprise, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P® by Uniqema;
- esters of in particular C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acids and of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, glycerol ethers (which may comprise, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), such as polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate containing 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by SEPPIC; polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate containing 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product Tagat S® sold by Goldschmidt, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate containing 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product Tagat O® sold by Goldschmidt, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate containing 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product Varionic LI 13® sold by Sherex, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate containing 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product Tagat L® sold by Goldschmidt, and polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate containing 30 oxyethylene units, such as the product Tagat I® from Goldschmidt;
- esters of in particular C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acids and of polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-10 laurate, for instance the commercial product Dermofeel G 10 L MB® sold by DR Straetmans (Evonik);
- esters of in particular C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acids and of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, sorbitol ethers (which may comprise, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), such as polysorbate-60 sold under the name Tween 60® by Uniqema;
- copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also known as EO/PO polycondensates;
- and mixtures thereof. The EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers constituted of polyethylene glycol blocks and polypropylene glycol blocks, for instance polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:
H-(O-CH₂-CH₂)_a-(O-CH(CH₃)-CH₂)_b-(O-CH₂-CH₂)_a-OH, in which formula a ranges from 2 to 120 and b ranges from 1 to 100. The EO/PO polycondensates preferably have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 1000 to 15 000 and better still ranging from 2000 to 13 000. Advantageously, said EO/PO polycondensates have a cloud point, at 10 g/l in distilled water, of greater than or equal to 20°C, preferably of greater than or equal to 60°C. The cloud point is measured according to the standard ISO 1065. As EO/PO polycondensate that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic, such as Synperonic PE/L44® and Synperonic PE/F127®, by ICI;
- mixtures thereof.

According to a preferential form, the non-ionic surfactant (13) is esters of a C₁₂ -C₂₂ fatty acid and of polyglycerol, and more particularly polyglyceryl-10 laurate.

According to a preferred mode of the invention, the non-ionic surfactant(s) (13) is (are) present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

g) Waxes (14)

According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may also comprise a wax (14).

However, with regard to the objectives targeted by the present invention, the compositions according to the invention preferably comprise a reduced amount of wax and in particular less than 5% by weight, or even less than 3% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

As specified in the preamble, for the purposes of the invention, the term “waxes” refers to lipophilic compounds, which are solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 40°C, which may be up to 120°C.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the waxes (14) to which the abovementioned amount limitation relates are distinct from those capable of being embodied by the component which is a linear fatty acid monoester (1) according to the invention and additional fatty alcohol (9) components as defined below.

This limitation relates more particularly to waxes made up of complex mixtures which are notably described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA.

Such waxes can in particular be natural but also synthetic.

The term “natural wax” is understood to denote any wax pre-existing in nature or which can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

Among natural waxes, mention may notably be made of waxes termed fossil waxes, including those of petroleum origin, such as ozokerite, pyropissite, macrocrystalline waxes, also known as paraffins – including crude or gatsch waxes, gatsch raffinates, de-oiled gatsch, soft waxes, semirefined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes – and microcrystalline waxes, termed microwaxes, including bright stock gatsch. The fossil waxes also contain lignite, also referred to as montan wax, or peat wax.

As natural waxes other than fossil waxes, mention may be made of animal and plant waxes.

Mention may be made, as examples of plant waxes, of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, flax wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm wax, Japan wax, mixtures thereof and derivatives thereof.

As examples of animal waxes, mention may be made of beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin, also known as wool wax, mixtures thereof and derivatives thereof.

These waxes (14) are generally multicomponent. For example, natural beeswax is approximately 70% composed of esters which are mainly monoesters (of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol), but also of hydroxy esters, of diesters and triesters and esters of sterols, and also of long-chain linear hydrocarbons, of free acids and of free alcohols. For obvious reasons, the weight proportion of their ingredients and their degree of purity are difficult to guarantee from one production batch to another.

The term “synthetic wax” is understood to denote waxes, the synthesis of which requires one or more chemical reactions carried out by a human being.

Among the synthetic waxes, semisynthetic waxes and totally synthetic waxes can be distinguished. Synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained via a Fischer-Tropsch process, for example constituted of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 50, or polyolefin waxes, for example homo- or copolymers of ethylene, of propene or of butene, indeed even of longer-chain α-olefins. The latter can be obtained by thermomechanical degradation of plastic polyethylene, by the Ziegler process, by high-pressure processes, or also via processes catalysed by metallocene entities. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable or amorphous. The abovementioned synthetic waxes are generally non-polar and can be chemically treated in order to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or more of the following reactions: air oxidation, grafting, esterification, neutralization with metal soaps, amidation, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.

In this case also, their composition may be constituted of a mixture of ingredients since the fatty-chain lengths are not well defined, thus forming a mixture of compounds having different fatty-chain lengths and for which it is difficult for manufacturers to guarantee perfect reproducibility from one production batch to another.

Consequently, the compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight of wax(es) (14), notably of multicomponent natural or synthetic wax(es), relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the invention, a multicomponent wax denotes a wax constituted of a mixture of several ingredients, either such that it exists naturally like natural waxes, or such that it is formed during the process of industrial synthesis of these materials.

In one particularly preferred mode of the invention, the composition is free of these waxes (14), notably multicomponent natural or synthetic waxes.

As specified above, the preferred texturing compounds according to the invention are by contrast and advantageously synthetic, single-component compounds, which are thus available in a form purified to more than 99%, like the compound (1) required according to the invention.

h) Cosmetic active agents (15)

As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made notably of antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, cosmetic active agents, for instance emollients, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

These additives (15) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional additives and/or their amount such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.

i) Dyestuff (16)

A composition according to the invention, and notably those intended for makeup, generally comprises at least one dyestuff (16) such as pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes or water-soluble dyes.

The pulverulent dyestuffs (16) may be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

The pearlescent agents can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica covered with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with notably ferric blue or chromium oxide, or titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble dyestuff” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Red 33, D&C Red 40, D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 5, D&C Yellow 6, D&C Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, D&C Green 5, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a pulverulent dyestuff (16), preferably of pigment type, in particular metal oxides, notably titanium dioxides, iron oxides and mixtures thereof; and more preferentially iron oxides, and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

Preferably, said dyestuff (16) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2.0% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Physical characteristics a) Solids content

The composition according to the invention advantageously has a solids content of at least 25.0% by weight, and preferentially of at least 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even from 30.0% to 60.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solids content” denotes the content of non-volatile matter.

The amount of solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73® commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement is performed on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating, and thus represents the percentage of residual matter once the water and the volatile matter have evaporated off.

This technique is fully described in the machine documentation supplied by Mettler Toledo®.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

Approximately 2 g of the composition, referred to hereinbelow as the sample, are spread out on a metal crucible, which is placed in the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.
The experimental error associated with the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.
The solids content is calculated in the following manner:
[Math 1]

Consistency

Preferably, a composition according to the invention has a consistency at 25°C characterized by a hardness ≥ 20 g, more preferentially a hardness ranging from 20 to 200 g, even more preferentially from 30 to 150 g.

The mascara consistency is measured according to the following protocol:

The measuring device is a TA-XT-Plus® sold by Staples Micro System, equipped with a cell for measuring a force of 5 kg and with a cylindrical spindle 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) in diameter made of Delrin. The mascara is thermostatically maintained at 20°C. It is then placed in excess in a container 60 mm in diameter and 22 mm deep using a metal spatula. The product is spread out so as to avoid any air pockets but without pummelling it, so as not to destructure it. The container is subsequently levelled off using a spatula so as to have a surface which is as uniform as possible. The container is subsequently covered with a watch glass so as to limit the evaporation of solvents present in the formula for about 10 minutes. The options chosen for this measurement method are as follows:
Test mode: Compression measurement
Trigger force: 2.0 g
Pre-speed: 0.5 mm/sec
Test speed: 0.5 mm/sec
Temperature: 20°C +/- 1°C
Penetration distance: 5 mm

Three successive measurements are carried out at points at least 12 mm apart, at least 10 mm from the edge of the container. The container is held in place during the measurement. The value retained is the mean of the maxima obtained at each measurement.

Such a consistency is particularly advantageous since it is the most suitable for the mascara application device.

The composition may be manufactured via the known processes generally used in the cosmetics field.

The composition used according to the invention may be a makeup composition, a makeup base, notably for keratin fibres, or base coat, a composition to be applied onto makeup, also known as topcoat, or else a composition for treating keratin fibres.

More specifically, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an eyelash product such as a mascara, an eyebrow product or an eye contour product such as an eyeliner, and more particularly a mascara.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

Packaging and application assembly or kit

The present invention also relates to an assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising:
- a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as described above,
- an applicator for said composition.

Said applicator may be integrally attached to a gripping member forming a cap for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and an open position of a dispensing aperture of the device for packaging said composition.

An assembly for coating keratin fibres suitable for the invention may comprise an applicator configured for applying said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres and, where appropriate, a packaging device suitable for receiving said composition.

Applicator

The applicator comprises means for smoothing and/or separating keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, notably in the form of teeth, bristles, spikes or other reliefs.

The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise, for example, a brush or a comb.

The applicator may also be used for finishing of the makeup, over a region of the eyelashes or eyebrows that is made up or laden with the composition.

The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles held between the turns of the core, or may be made in yet another way.

The comb is, for example, produced from a single part by moulding of a plastic.

In certain exemplary embodiments, the application member is mounted at the end of a stem, which stem may be flexible, which may contribute to improving the comfort during application.

Packaging device

The packaging device comprises a container intended for housing the composition for coating keratin fibres. This composition may then be withdrawn from the container by immersing the applicator therein.

This applicator may be firmly attached to an element for closing the container. This closing element may form a member for gripping the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to be removably mounted on said container by any suitable means, such as by screwing, click-fastening, coupling, etc. Such a container may thus reversibly house said applicator.

This container may be optionally equipped with a wiper suitable for removing surplus product taken up by the applicator.

A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also include the following steps:
- forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows,
- leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or eyebrows, it being possible for the deposit to dry.

It should be noted that, according to another embodiment, the applicator may form a product container. In such a case, a container may, for example, be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the application elements in relief.

Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be in the form of a kit, it being possible for the applicator and the packaging device to be housed separately in the same packaging article.

The expressions “of between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

In the description and the examples, the percentages are weight percentages, unless otherwise indicated. The percentages are thus expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions that are readily determined by a person skilled in the art.

The invention will now be described by means of examples which are present for purely illustrative purposes and should not be interpreted as examples that limit the invention.

Examples of mascara: Example 1 according to the invention and Examples 1a, 1b, 1c and 1d (outside the invention)

Ingredients (INCI name)	Ex 1 according to the invention with the polyester DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE	Ex 1a outside the invention without liquid polyester (4)	Ex 1b outside the invention without water-soluble polyol (7)	Ex 1c outside the invention with the polyester DILINOLEIC ACID/BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER	Ex 1d outside the invention with the polyester BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2
BEHENYL BEHENATE (C44) (KESTER WAX K-72®) fatty acid monoester (1)	8.3	8.3	8.3	8.3	8.3
CETEARYL ALCOHOL (LANETTE O OR®) fatty alcohol (9)	4.5	4.5	4.5	4.5	4.5
STEARIC ACID (STEARINE TP 1200 PASTILLES®-DUB 50P®) anionic surfactant (2)	7.7	7.7	7.7	7.7	7.7
AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL (AMPD Ultra PC® from Angus - Dow Corning) base (3)	1.3	1.3	1.3	1.3	1.3
POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE (TEGO SP 13-6®) semicrystalline polymer (10)	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0
ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (EPITEX 66 POLYMER® - DOW) film-forming polymer in aqueous suspension (6)	12.0	12.0	12.0	12.0	12.0
IRON OXIDES/CI 77499 (SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001® from Sun dyestuff (16)	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0
HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE (CELLOSIZE HEC QP-4400H EUROPE PCG® - DOW) hydrophilic film-forming polymer(12)	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6
DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® - NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) liquid polyester (4)	4.0		4.0
DILINOLEIC ACID/BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER (VISCOPLAST 14436H® - Biosynthesis)	-	-	-	4.0
BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (SOFTISAN 649® - CREMER OLEO)°	-	-	-		4.0
KAOLIN (IMERCARE 04K® - IMERYS) filler (8)	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0
POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE (DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB® - DR STRAETMANS) non-ionic surfactant (13)	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0
BUTYLENE GLYCOL water-soluble polyol (7)	3.0	3.0	-	3.0	3.0
PHENOXYETHANOL	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6
CAPRYL GLYCOL	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6
WATER (5)	qs 100	qs 100	qs 100	qs 100	qs 100

Example preparation protocol

The compositions were prepared in a Maxilab Olsa® jacketed tank as follows (on 3 kg). At ambient temperature (25°C), all the ingredients except for the Acrylates Copolymer were introduced into the tank. The mixture was heated to 90°C with stirring. Emulsification was performed for 15 minutes under turbine/paddle/scraper stirring (speed 3000/30/42 rpm). The juice was then gradually cooled to 60°C under paddle/scraper stirring (speed = 30/42 rpm) at a rate of 2°C/minute. The acrylate copolymer was then added and the mixture cooled to 35°C under paddle/scraper stirring (speed = 30/42 rpm) at a rate of 2°C/min, gradually deaerating the formula by means of vacuum before emptying at 35°C.

After the formulas had been packaged in a mascara applicator, they were evaluated using a friction resistance test carried out according to the protocol described below.

The formulas were deposited on false eyelashes (test specimen of hair) by 3 times ten strokes with 2 min of drying in between. The test specimens were then left to dry for 1 hour on a plate thermostatically controlled at 33°C. Over a white sheet, 30 strokes were applied to the false eyelashes via the Kéracil® mascara brush from Lancôme. The amount of residue (flakes) deposited on the sheet was evaluated via a chart defining a score of 0 to 6 (0 no residues, 6 very large amount of residues). It should be noted that a significant difference can be observed when the difference is greater than or equal to 1. The results obtained are shown in the table below.

	Ex 1 according to the invention with the polyester DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE	Ex 1a outside the invention without liquid polyester (4)	Ex 1b outside the invention without water-soluble polyol (7)	Ex 1c outside the invention with the polyester DILINOLEIC ACID/BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER	Ex 1d outside the invention with the polyester BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2
FLAKE score	1	4	2.5	4	3

The results showed that Example 1 according to the invention containing the Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate liquid polyester combined with the polyol gives a better resistance to friction compared to Counterexamples 1a, 1b, 1c and 1d outside the invention.

Claims (27)

1. Composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:
   (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I) below:
   [Chem 1]
   (I)
   in which R₁ and R₂ are linear and saturated and, independently of one another, have a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R₁ representing an acyl radical and R₂ representing an alkyl radical; and
   (2) at least one anionic surfactant; and
   (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant; and
   (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (dimer diol), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C₁₆-C₃₂, preferably C₁₆-C₂₂, alcohol, and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
   (5) water; and
   (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in suspension in the aqueous phase; and
   (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, containing less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 3% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight of said composition.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the linear fatty acid monoester (I) is chosen from arachidyl arachidate and behenyl behenate, and the linear fatty acid monoester is preferably behenyl behenate.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 6.0% by weight, better still at least 7.0% by weight of linear fatty acid monoester(s) (1) relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular the content of linear fatty acid monoester(s) ranges from 6.0% to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 7.0% to 30.0% by weight, more particularly from 8.0% to 28.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 3.5% to 20.0% by weight, more preferentially from 4.0% to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant(s) (2) is (are) chosen from
   - mono(C₁₂-C₂₀)alkyl phosphates;
   - fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms;
   - mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to Claim 6, comprising at least the stearic acid anionic surfactant having the INCI name Stearic Acid neutralized with aminomethylpropanediol.
8. Composition according to Claim 6, comprising at least the monocetyl phosphate anionic surfactant in its form neutralized with potassium hydroxide (KOH), namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate, having the INCI name Potassium Cetyl Phosphate.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one liquid polyester (4) chosen from those having the following INCI names: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid polyester (4) is present in the composition in contents ranging from 0.5% to 10% and more preferentially from 2% to 6% relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of from 50% to 60% by weight of water (5), relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the film-forming polymer(s) (6) in the form of particles in suspension in water are present in a solids content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of film-forming acrylic polymer (6), in particular having the INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) is 1,3-butylene glycol having the INCI name: Butylene Glycol.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the water-soluble liquid polyol(s) (7) are present in the composition in contents ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% and more preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one filler (8).
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol (9), preferably chosen from linear and saturated C₁₄-C₃₀ fatty alcohols; better still chosen from linear and saturated C₁₄-C₂₄ fatty alcohols; more particularly chosen from linear and saturated C₁₄-C₂₀ fatty alcohols; even better still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one semicrystalline polymer (10), preferably a semicrystalline polymer derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C₁₀ to C₃₀ alkyl (meth)acrylates, and more particularly chosen from poly(stearyl acrylate)s and poly(behenyl acrylate)s, and mixtures thereof.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a liquid fatty phase (11), preferably comprising at least one non-volatile oil chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.
20. Composition according to Claim 19, comprising less than 5.0% by weight, more preferentially less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of volatile oil.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer (12), preferably a hydroxyalkylcellulose, and more particularly a hydroxyethylcellulose.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant (13) with an HLB greater than 8, in particular polyglyceryl-10 laurate.
23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a solids content of at least 25.0% by weight, and preferentially of at least 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even from 30.0% to 60.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having at 25°C a consistency characterized by a hardness ≥ 20 g, preferably ranging from 20 to 200 g, even more preferentially ranging from 30 to 150 g.
25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of an eyelash product such as a mascara, an eyebrow product or a product for the contour of the eyes, such as an eyeliner.
26. Assembly or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising:
    - a packaging device comprising a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 25;
    - an applicator for said composition.
27. Process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 25.