WO2025073408A1

WO2025073408A1 - Woven upper

Info

Publication number: WO2025073408A1
Application number: PCT/EP2024/073993
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thomas Bell
Original assignee: On Clouds GmbH
Current assignee: On Clouds GmbH
Priority date: 2023-10-02
Filing date: 2024-08-28
Publication date: 2025-04-10
Anticipated expiration: 2026-04-02

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a woven upper (1) comprising a weave (2) that extends in a weave plane and is formed by a plurality of warp yarns interwoven with at least one weft yarn. The upper further comprises a plurality of float yarns (3) which are interwoven with the weave (2) in one or more areas of the weave (2), thus defining one or more functional zones (4) of the upper (1). For at least 50% of all float yarns (3), at least one trimmed end (31) of the respective float yarn (3) is arranged within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, of the respective functional zone (4). The upper (1) further comprises one or more lightweight zones (5) in which the upper is essentially free of float yarns (3). The disclosure further relates to a pre-trimmed woven upper (1a), a shoe and a process for manufacturing a woven upper.

Description

Woven Upper

Field of disclosure

The present invention relates to a woven upper, a shoe comprising the woven upper, a pretrimmed woven upper and a process for manufacturing a woven upper.

Background of the invention

Modern shoes place high demands on the physical properties of the uppers. Depending on the area of application, lightness, durability and breathability are particularly in demand. The properties can differ for the different regions of the uppers. For example, mechanical robustness may be required in particular for the toe and heel region, while other regions of the uppers may focus on breathability.

To meet the stringent requirements, known uppers typically combine physically discrete pieces made of different materials to achieve different properties. For example, an upper can be manufactured by combining textile components and non-textile components. This approach may, for example, allow to combine properties such as breathability and a low weight by using a textile component together with properties such as mechanical loadbearing capacity in selected regions of the upper by using non-textile components.

However, the combination of different physically discrete pieces is accompanied by various disadvantages. The production of such uppers is often expensive and complicated. Another disadvantage is that the uppers often have a high weight. Furthermore, it can be difficult to achieve a strong physical bond between two separately manufactured parts. Another disadvantage is that recycling the uppers, and thus the footwear as a whole, becomes more difficult, which limits its sustainability.

Some known uppers include textile components which may be fabricated using different techniques, such as knitting and weaving. Some of the techniques used in the art are complicated and expensive. Additionally, depending on the technique used, there is typically a balance to be struck between attaining the required physical properties of the upper and limiting the overall weight of the upper. As an example, adding additional yarns to a weaving process may allow to alter the physical properties of a region, e.g. by reinforcing the region, but it also increases the overall weight of the upper.

Summary of disclosure

It is a general object of the present invention to provide an upper and a process for manufacturing an upper that address at least some of the disadvantages of the prior art.

In preferred embodiments, it is an object to provide an upper having both a low weight and having different physical properties in different regions of the upper. As an example, it is an object of at least some embodiments to provide an upper having both a low weight and different functional zones. It is a further object of at least some embodiments to provide a woven upper, preferably an upper consisting of an integrally woven material. It is a further object of at least some embodiments to provide an improved process for manufacturing a woven upper.

The general object is solved by a woven upper according to a first aspect of the present disclosure. The woven upper comprises a weave extending in a weave plane. The weave is formed by a plurality of warp yarns interwoven with at least one weft yarn. The upper further comprises a plurality of float yarns, which are interwoven with the weave in one or more areas of the weave, thus defining one or more functional zones of the upper. For at least 50% of all float yarns, at least one trimmed end of the respective float yarn is arranged within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, of the respective functional zone. The upper further comprises one or more lightweight zones. In the one or more lightweight zones, the upper is essentially free of float yarns.

By interweaving float yarns in one or more areas of the weave, functional zones are formed, which may for example have specific physical properties, such as high tensile strength or high elasticity. Depending on the number and type of float yarns used and the type of interweaving used, different functional zones may be formed to achieve different physical properties in different areas of the upper. Since at least 50% of all float yarns have at least one trimmed end that is arranged within 10 mm of the respective functional zone, this allows to reduce the overall weight of the upper. In particular, the weight caused by the float yarns is minimized because at least 50% of all float yarns have a trimmed end rather than extending e.g. over the whole width or length of the upper. As an example for illustration purposes, an upper may have a functional zone formed by float yarns interwoven in the weft direction, which corresponds to the width of the upper, while the functional zone does not extend over the entire width of the upper. In this example, at least 50% of the float yarns have at least one, preferably two, trimmed ends that are arranged within 10 mm of the respective function zone. This ensures that the respective float yarns do not extend over the entire width of the upper, which reduces the overall weight of the upper.

The woven upper comprises a weave that extends in a weave plane. The weave is formed by a plurality of warp yarns interwoven with at least one weft yarn. The warp yarns and the weft yarn forming the weave may in some embodiments be labelled as ordinary warp yarns and ordinary weft yarn, respectively. Different weaving techniques may be used to form the weave. As an example, the weave may be a plain weave, a multi-layer weave or a combination thereof. In some variants, the weave is selected from one or more of the following: plain weave, multi-layer weave, twill weave, satin weave, basket weave dobby weave, jacquard weave, leno weave, huck weave, pile weave, tapestry weave, double cloth weave.

The multi-layer weave may be a dual-layer weave. The multi-layer weave may, for example, be filled with a filler material, such as an injectable foam or injectable yarns. Additionally or alternatively, depending on the application, the weave may include filler yarns. The weave may include one or more weft yarns. Depending on the application, it is also conceivable that the weave includes different numbers of weft yarns in different areas of the upper. The weave extends in a weave plane. The weave plane is defined by an x-axis and an orthogonal y-axis. The skilled person understands that the weave is in fact a three- dimensional object. Therefore, in an alternative phrasing, the weave may be described to extend between a first plane and a parallel second plane having a distance of less than 8 mm, preferably less than 4 mm, from the first plane.

The woven upper comprises one or more functional zones and one or more lightweight zones. The upper may optionally additionally comprise one or more float zones. The one or more functional zones, the one or more lightweight zones and the optional one or more float zones are all areas of the weave. They are mutually exclusive. In other words, a given area of the weave may either be a functional zone, a lightweight zone, or optionally a float zone, but not two or even three of these zones at the same time. In a functional zone, a float yarn is interwoven with the weave. In a lightweight zone, the upper is essentially free of float yarns. As an example, in a lightweight zone, the upper may essentially consist of the weave. In a float zone, the upper comprises the weave and one or more float yarns, wherein the one or more float yarns are essentially unwoven with the weave and arranged out of the weave plane.

The woven upper comprises one or more lightweight zones in which the upper is essentially free of float yarns. In other words, in the lightweight zones, the weight of the float yarns is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 1 %, relative to the weight of the weave in the respective lightweight zone.

The woven upper further comprises one or more functional zones. The one or more functional zones are those areas of the weave in which the plurality of float yarns are interwoven with the weave. The float yarns may, for example be interwoven with the warp yarns and/or with the one or more weft yarns. Different techniques may be used for interweaving of the float yarns with the weave. The woven upper comprises a plurality of float yarns. In some embodiments, the upper comprises at least 20 float yarns, preferably at least 50 float yarns. In some embodiments, the upper comprises from 20 to T000, preferably from 50 to 500 float yarns. At least some, such as all, of the float yarns may extend in a weft direction. Additionally or alternatively, at least some, or all, of the float yarns may extend in a warp direction. As an example, the float yarns may extend in the weft direction and may be interwoven with the ordinary warp yarns of the weave. Depending on the application, the float yarns may additionally be interwoven with the one or more ordinary weft yarns of the weave. Depending on the application, the float yarns may also extend essentially in parallel to the one or more ordinary weft yarns. It is also possible that the float yarns are additionally partially interwoven with the one or more ordinary weft yarns and partially extend in parallel to the one or more ordinary weft yarns.

At least 50% of all float yarns have a trimmed end. In a preferred embodiment, at least 50% of all float yarns have two trimmed ends. A trimmed end in the woven upper is obtained by trimming of the yarn at a predetermined position. The trimmed end may be obtained by trimming, such as cutting, clipping, sectioning, snipping, intersecting or scissoring the yarn. The trimming may be achieved using different techniques, such as using a cutting edge or a laser. The trimmed end typically has a trim edge, such as a cut edge, which is typically essentially flat right after trimming. The trim edge, such as the cut edge, may, for example, extend essentially orthogonal to the longitudinal direction of the respective yarn.

The expression that a trimmed end is arranged within a certain distance of the respective functional zone refers to the shortest distance between the trimmed end and the respective functional zone. In other words, it relates to the distance between the trimmed end and that point of the outer circumference of the respective functional zone that is closest to the trimmed end.

At least 50% of all float yarns have a trimmed end arranged within a distance of 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, of the respective functional zone. In a preferred embodiment, the distance is within 3 mm, more preferably within 1 mm, of the respective functional zone. In a preferred embodiment, at least 70%, more preferably at least 90%, even more preferably at least 95%, even more preferably at least 99%, even more preferably all, of the float yarns have a trimmed end arranged within a distance of 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, of the respective functional zone. In a preferred embodiment, the distance is within 3 mm, more preferably within 1 mm, of the respective functional zone.

By trimming of at least some, preferably all, of the float yarns, are typically shorter than the length of the upper at the respective position. In other words, the float yarns are typically shorter than other yarns interwoven in the weave at the same position which have not been trimmed. The length of the upper may refer to any extension of the upper in the weave plane. As an example, the length of the upper may refer to the distance between the heel end and the front toe end. The length of the upper may also refer to the distance between the lateral side and the medial side. In some embodiments, each float yarn has a length of less than 90%, preferably of less than 75%, more preferably less than 50%, relative to the length of the upper along the direction of the respective float yarn. In other words, the length of the upper along the direction of the respective float yarn may be described as the distance between the two intersection points at which an outer perimeter of the upper is intersected by a line extending along the direction along which the float yarn extends. As an example, when a given float yarn extends in a weft direction at a given position of the upper, the length of the warp yarn may be up to 90% of the width of the upper at that position. In still other words, each float yarn may have a length of less than 90%, preferably of less than 75%, more preferably less than 50%, relative to the length of the ordinary weft yarn and/or warp yarn extending in parallel to the float yarn at the respective position of the respective float yarn. It is also possible that each float yarn has a length of less than 50%, preferably of less than 35%, more preferably less than 25%, relative to the length of the upper along the direction of the respective float yarn.

The woven upper comprises one or more functional zones, one or more lightweight zones and optionally one or more float zones. Depending on the application, these zones may have different surface areas and the zones may be arranged in different ways on the upper. As an example, the majority of the upper may comprise a lightweight zone, which is interspersed in selected areas by one or more functional zones. The different zones may have different surface areas. Typically, each zone has a surface area of at least 1 mm². As an example, each lightweight zone may have a surface area from 50 mm² to 250’000 mm². In an embodiment, each functional zone has a surface area of at least 1 mm², preferably at least 4 mm², more preferably from 10 mm² to 15’000 mm². Additionally or alternatively, in an embodiment, each float zone may have a surface area of at least 1 mm², preferably at least 4 mm², more preferably from 10 mm² to 15’000 mm².

Depending on the application, the upper may comprise one or more different functional zones. As an example, the upper may comprise at least one, preferably at least three, functional zones configured for reinforcing the upper. In the reinforcing functional zones, a reinforcing float yarn may be interwoven with the weave. The reinforcing float yarn may, for example, comprise one or more of the following materials: Nylon, Polyester, Kevlar, Carbon fiber, Aramid, Spandex, Rayon, Acrylic, Polypropylene, coolmax, Graphene, Thermoplastic Polyurethane, Vectran and conductive fibers.

In an embodiment, the woven upper may comprise one or more of the following functional zones:

- a toe box reinforcement functional zone arranged in a toe area of the upper;

- a heel reinforcement functional zone arranged in a heel area of the upper;

- a lateral reinforcement functional zone arranged in a lateral area of the upper; and/or

- a medial reinforcement functional zone arranged in a medial area of the upper.

Depending on the required physical properties of the functional zones, the plurality of float yarns may be made of different materials. As an example, in an embodiment, the plurality of float yarns may be made of one or more of the following materials, or combinations thereof: Natural Cotton, Linen, Wool, Silk, Hemp, Jute, Ramie, Bamboo, Soy fiber, Pineapple fibers, Flax, Nylon, Polyester, Kevlar, Carbon fiber, Aramid, Spandex, Rayon, Acrylic, Polypropylene, coolmax, Thermoplastic Polyurethane, Vectran and conductive fibers. Materials from the same list may also be used for the ordinary warp yarns and the at least one ordinary weft yarn. In an embodiment, the float yarn is made of a different material than the ordinary warp yarns and than the ordinary weft yarn. Alternatively, it is also possible that the float yarn is made of the same material as the ordinary warp yarns and/or the same materials as the ordinary weft yarn.

In an embodiment, at least some of the yarns of the upper include conductive yarns. This allows for electrical conductivity and may, for example, be used to create sensors in a finished product.

In an embodiment, the woven upper may comprise one or more reinforcement layers. Typically, the reinforcement layer or reinforcement layers are arranged in a functional zone. The reinforcement layer may for example comprise a sheet or a moulded piece, such as a moulded piece of plastic. The reinforcement layer may for example be made of plastic, such as TPU. The reinforcement layer is typically fixedly connected to the weave, e.g. through heat bonding. In some variants, the heel reinforcement functional zone comprises at least one reinforcement layer. Alternatively or in combination, other reinforcement functional zones such as a toe box reinforcement functional zone may also comprise a reinforcement layer.

In a typical embodiment of the present disclosure, the upper is formed as a flat article with varied functional zones integrated therein. For example, it is contemplated that a substantially planar shoe upper is produced on a loom with strategically positioned functional zones having certain physical properties, such as certain degrees of stretch, breathability, etc. Additionally, it is contemplated that the functional zones may provide dimensional variation (e.g., thickness) and/or permeability (e.g., breathability) characteristics. The substantially planar upper may then be formed into a three-dimensional upper having a volume that may be occupied by a wearer's foot. The upper having integrally formed functional zones may be formed in a single weaving operation that integrates the various functional zones in a common manufacturing process without utilizing postprocessing coupling techniques to integrate the functional zones. Typically, the upper extends from a heel end to a front toe end and from a lateral side to a medial side. Thus, typically, the weave of the upper extends from a heel end to a front toe end of the upper and/or from a lateral side to a medial side of the upper. Typically, the upper is formed as an integrally manufactured article. Stated differently, the upper may be formed in a unitary fashion from a common machine that utilizes varying techniques to impart the functional regions and dimensional characteristics.

In an embodiment, for at least 50%, preferably all, of the float yarns, at least one end of each float yarn has a distance of at least 5 mm, preferably at least 10 mm, from an outer perimeter of the upper. The outer perimeter of the upper corresponds to the upper in the substantially planar arrangement.

In an embodiment, the float yarns differ from the warp yarns forming the weave and from the at least one weft yarn forming the weave in at least one parameter selected from tensile strength, diameter, density and denier. The float yarns may optionally differ from the ordinary warp yarns and the one or more weft yarns in multiple parameters. As an example, the float yarns may be thicker than the ordinary weft and warp yarns and may have a higher tensile strength. In an embodiment, the float yarns have a tensile strength that is at least 30%, preferably at least 50%, more preferably at least 75%, even more preferably at least 100%, higher than the tensile strength of the warp yarns and/or than the tensile strength of the at least one weft yarn. Additionally or alternatively, the float yarns have a denier that is at least 10%, preferably at least 25%, more preferably at least 40%, higher than the denier of the warp yarns and/or than the denier of the at least one weft yarn. Additionally or alternatively, the float yarns may have a diameter that is at least 10%, preferably at least 250%, more preferably at least 35%, higher than the diameter of the warp yarns and/or than the diameter of the at least one weft yarn.

In an embodiment, at least some of the float yarns have a denier of more than 50, such as between 80 and 1’000, preferably between 90 and 150. Additionally or alternatively, at least some of the float yarns may have a denier of less than 15, such as between 5 and 12.

In an embodiment, the woven upper further comprises one or more float zones in which the one or more float yarns are essentially unwoven with the weave and arranged out of the weave plane. In an embodiment, in each float zone, the respective float yarns are essentially untangled, braided, twisted or knotted, preferably essentially untangled. In an embodiment, in the float zones, the respective float yarns extend essentially in parallel to the weave plane. Each float zone is typically adjacent to a functional zone. As an example, the float yarns may be interwoven with the weave in a first area to form a functional zone, and may be essentially unwoven with the weave in an adjacent second area of the weave to form a float zone. Depending on the application, the float yarns may be arranged above or below the weave plane in the float zone.

Depending on the application, the one or more float zones may be arranged in different areas of the upper. As an example, a float zone may be arranged in one or more of the following areas: toe area, a heel area, a lateral area, a medial area of the upper.

In an embodiment, the upper comprises at least one float zone extending across a medial side of the upper. Additionally or alternatively, in an embodiment, the upper comprises at least one float zone extending across a lateral side of the upper. These embodiments may, for example, be used to impart a tensile strength across the medial and/or lateral side of the upper. As an example, the float yarn of the respective float zone may exhibit a high tensile strength. By including at least one float zone, in which the float yarn is essentially unwoven with the weave, the upper may be easier to manufacture because the float zones do not additionally require interweaving of the float yarn.

In an embodiment, at least one float zone is arranged between a first functional zone and a second functional zone, wherein at least some of the float yarns that are interwoven with the weave in the first functional zone extend from the first functional zone over the float zone, in which they are essentially unwoven with the weave, to the second functional zone, in which they are interwoven with the weave again. As an example, in some embodiments, a float zone may interspace a first functional zone and a second functional zone. As an example, float yarns may be interwoven with the weave in a first area of the weave to form a functional zone, then be essentially unwoven with the weave in an adjacent area of the weave to form a float zone, and then be interwoven with the weave again in a third area of the weave adjacent to the second area to form a further functional zone. In this example, by virtue of the interweaving in the functional zones, the float yarns have a strong connection with the weave in the functional zones and are out of the weave plane, and thus accessible, in the float zone. The float yarns in the float zone of this example may, for example, act as a loop, for example, as part of a lacing system.

In some embodiments, the upper comprises one or more lacing loops, wherein each lacing loop is formed by a float zone arranged between two functional zones. The upper may, in some embodiments, comprise a lacing system comprising a medial row of lacing loops and an oppositely arranged lateral row of lacing loops, wherein the medial row of lacing loops and the lateral row of lacing loops each comprise at least three functional zones and at least two float zones interspacing the functional zones.

Functional zones may be adjacent to lightweight zones and/or float zones. In some embodiments, for at least some of the functional zones, both ends of at least 50%, preferably all, of the respective float yarns are arranged within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, more preferably within 2 mm, of the respective functional zone. It is also possible that for all functional zones, both ends of at least 50%, preferably all, of the respective float yarns are arranged within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, more preferably within 2 mm, of the respective functional zone. As an example, the functional zones may be adjacent to lightweight zones.

In some embodiments, the woven upper comprises elastic float yarns having a higher elasticity than the warp yarns forming the weave and/or than the weft yarn forming the weave, such that the upper may be reversibly transformed from a contracted state into an uncontracted state by exerting a pull force along the direction along which the elastic float yarns extend. The contracted state is the state, which the upper naturally adopts in the absence of any external forces, such as pull forces. The contracted state may, in other words, be labelled as relaxed state. As an example, in the contracted state, any elastic float yarns are typically contracted. The uncontracted state is the state, which the upper adopts when external forces, such as pull forces, act on the upper. As an example, an external pull force may be exerted on opposite ends of the upper, such as on the toe box and on the heel area, which may cause the upper to be elongated in a longitudinal direction. In this example, it is conceivable that flexible float yarns extend along the longitudinal direction and are stretched as a result of the external pull force. In other words, the uncontracted state may also be labelled as unrelaxed state. One advantage of these embodiments is that they may for example be used to adapt of the upper to the shape and contour of the foot of the wearer. By including elastic float yarns, the upper may snugly fit to the shape and contour of the foot of the wearer, which is typically associated with a high comfort for the wearer. Depending on the application, the length of the elastic float yarns in the contracted state is up to 95%, preferably up to from 20% to 90%, more preferably from 35% to 80%, relative to their length in the uncontracted state. In some embodiments, the elastic float yarns may be configured such that they can be elastically stretched by a factor of up to 3, preferably by a factor of up to 1 .5. The elasticity of the float yarns may, for example, relate to the elastic modulus of the elastic float yarns relative to the elastic modulus of the warp yarns forming the weave and/or than the weft yarn forming the weave. As an example, the ratio of the elastic modulus of the elastic float yarns relative to the elastic modulus of the warp yarns forming the weave may be from 1.01 :1 to 5:1 , preferably from 1 :1 to 3. Additionally or alternatively, the ratio of the elastic modulus of the elastic float yarns relative to the elastic modulus of the weft yarn forming the weave may be from 1.01 :1 to 5:1 , preferably from 1 :1 to 3.

In an embodiment, at least some of the elastic float yarns are arranged in a float zone, such that in the uncontracted state, the elastic float yarns are stretched and extend essentially in parallel to the weave, and in the contracted state, the elastic float yarns are contracted, such that the weave of the float zone protrudes away from and/or bulges away from the elastic float yarns. As an example, in the contracted state, the weave of the float zone may form a bulge, such as a fold and/or a wrinkle. The weave may, for example, protrude in a direction essentially orthogonal to the elastic float yarns in the contracted state. These embodiments may, for example, be used to impart elastic properties within a defined margin or clearance. As an example, starting from the contracted state in which the elastic float yarns are contracted, the upper may be elastically stretched in the direction along which the elastic float yarns extend. During stretching, the elastic float yarns are increasingly stretched and the float yarns of the float zone increasingly approach the weave of the float zone. The stretching may be continued until the elastic float yarns extend essentially in parallel to the weave and the uncontracted state is reached. In the uncontracted state, further stretching would typically require stretching of not just the float yarns, but also of the weave. Typically, the tensile strength of the weave is so high that further stretching in the uncontracted state is essentially prevented. As such, the embodiments may be used to impart a clearly defined margin of elastic deformation, while also providing structural support once the uncontracted state has been reached. These embodiments may therefore combine high wearing comfort with high structural support and stability.

In an embodiment, at least some of the elastic float yarns are arranged in a functional zone configured to act as a padding zone, wherein the functional padding zone comprises a plurality of cells each comprising an active section and a passive section. In the passive section, the elastic float yarn and a protrusion yarn are interwoven with the weave, such that the protrusion yarn is essentially arranged in the weave plane. In the active section, the protrusion yarn is essentially unwoven with the weave and essentially unwoven with the elastic float yarn, such that in the uncontracted state, the protrusion yarn extends essentially in parallel to the weave and in the contracted state, the elastic float yarns are contracted, such that the protrusion yarn protrudes away from and/or bulges away from the weave plane. As an example, in the contracted state, the protrusion yarn may form a bulge, such as a fold and/or a wrinkle. The protrusion yarn may, for example, protrude in a direction essentially orthogonal to the weave plane in the contracted state. In other words, the protrusion yarn may protrude in a direction essentially orthogonal to the elastic float yarns in the contracted state.

The functional padding zones may be used to increase wearing comfort. They may also be used to impart a significant degree of three-dimensionality to the upper. Exemplary embodiments are described in US 2018/0135213 A1 , in particular with respect to figures 7 and 8 of US 2018/0135213 A1 , which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The active section is configured to be transformed from an uncontracted state to a contracted state. Depending on the application, the transformation may be essentially irreversible or essentially reversible. The passive section is configured to remain essentially two-dimensional. The active section is configured to confer three-dimensionality.

As an example, the active section is typically essentially two-dimensional in the uncontracted state and essentially three-dimensional in the contracted state. In an embodiment, the upper may be transformed from the uncontracted state into the contracted state by an external stimulus. This may, for example, cause at least a part, preferably all, of the active sections of the upper to adopt an essentially three-dimensional shape.

Different external stimuli are conceivable to transform the upper from its uncontracted state into its contracted state. As an example, the external stimulus may include application of heat, pressure, reagents, or combinations thereof. In an embodiment, the upper is configured to be transformed from its uncontracted state into its contracted state by heat treatment, such as vapor treatment. It is also conceivable that the upper is held in its uncontracted state by application of external forces, such as pull forces exerted during weaving, and is transformed into its contracted state by removing or withdrawing the external forces, such as after completion of the weaving process.

The present disclosure relates in a second aspect to a pre-trimmed woven upper. The pretrimmed woven upper comprises a weave extending in a weave plane and formed by a plurality of warp yarns interwoven with at least one weft yarn. The pre-trimmed woven upper further comprises one or more functional zones, one or more lightweight zones and one or more float zones. The pre-trimmed woven upper further comprises a plurality of float yarns, which are interwoven with the weave in one or more areas of the weave, thus defining the one or more functional zones. The float yarns extend from the respective functional zone to an adjacent float zone of the pre-trimmed woven upper in which the float yarns are essentially unwoven with the weave and arranged out of the weave plane. In the one or more lightweight zones, the pre-trimmed woven upper is essentially free of the float yarns. In an embodiment of the pre-trimmed upper, at least one float zone borders on an outer perimeter of the pre-trimmed woven upper, such that the float yarns that are arranged in the respective float zone extend across the outer perimeter of the pre-trimmed woven upper.

In an embodiment of the pre-trimmed upper, the float yarns of the pre-trimmed upper may be configured to be at least partially, preferably fully, removed in a post-processing step, e.g. by through-cutting.

In an embodiment of the pre-trimmed upper, each float yarn extends across the entire length of the upper along the direction of the respective float yarn.

The present disclosure relates in a third aspect to a shoe comprising the woven upper according to any one of the embodiments disclosed herein.

A shoe within the meaning of the present disclosure may preferably denote a closed shoe. In particular, it may be a sports shoe for athletics, tennis, hiking, trekking or the like, or a leisure shoe. The shoe has a lateral side and a medial side. The shoe typically further has a heel area, a forefoot area and a midfoot area. The front end of the forefoot area forms a shoe tip and the rear end of the heel area forms a heel edge. The shoe includes a shoe sole and an upper according to any one of the embodiments disclosed herein. The skilled person understands that the medial side of the running shoe in the worn state denotes the outer inner side of the shoe. Thus, in a pair of running shoes, the two medial sides face each other. When worn, the lateral side of the running shoe denotes the outer side of the shoe and is thus on the side of the outer instep. Typically, the forefoot area is located in the area of the toes and the ball of the foot, and the heel area is located in the area of the heel. The midfoot area lies between the heel area and the forefoot area. The length of the forefoot area in the longitudinal direction can be, for example, 40-55%, the heel area in about 25- 35%, and the midfoot area about 10-35% of the total length of the shoe sole. The heel edge is located opposite the shoe tip and thus denotes the vertical rear edge of the shoe. In an embodiment, the shoe is a running shoe. The present disclosure relates in a fourth aspect to a process for manufacturing a woven upper. The process comprises interweaving a plurality of warp yarns with at least one weft yarn to provide a weave extending in a weave plane defined by an x direction and an orthogonal y direction. The process further comprises intermittently interweaving at least one float yarn with the plurality of warp yarns of the weave and/or with the at least one weft yarn of the weave according to a predetermined interweave pattern defining for each x-y- position on the weave plane, whether that x-y-position is located either in a functional zone, or in a float zone, or in a lightweight zone. The intermittent interweaving comprises, if the respective x-y-position is located in a functional zone, interweaving at least one float yarn with the weave at the respective x-y- position. The intermittent interweaving comprises, if the respective x-y-position is located in a float zone, not interweaving the at least one float yarn and arranging the at least one float yarn out of the weave plane. The intermittent interweaving comprises, if the respective x-y-position is located in a lightweight zone, omitting all float yarns at the respective x-y-position.

This process generates one or more lightweight zones in which the upper is essentially free of float yarns; one or more functional zones in which the weave is interwoven by a plurality of float yarns; and one or more float zones in which the float yarn is essentially unwoven with the weave and arranged out of the weave plane. Typically, the intermittent interweaving is performed concomitantly with the interweaving of the warp and weft yarns.

In an embodiment, the process further comprises trimming at least 50%, preferably at least 90%, more preferably 100%, of all float yarns. The float yarns are typically trimmed within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, more preferably within 2 mm, of the respective functional zone with which the float yarn is interwoven. As an example, the float yarns may be trimmed within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, of a border contour of the respective functional zone. The trimming may, for example, include cutting, clipping, sectioning, snipping, intersecting and/or scissoring, preferably cutting. In an embodiment, the x direction is the warp direction and the y direction is the weft direction. In another embodiment, the y direction is the warp direction and the x direction is the weft direction.

Depending on the application, the weaving process may at least partially be performed under stretch. Thus, it is possible to maintain at least some of the yarns under stretch during weaving and the release the stretch after completion of the weaving process, typically leading to a partial contraction of the woven upper. As an example, during the intermittent interweaving of the float yarn, the float yarn may be maintained and interwoven in a stretched state. The float yarn may, for example, be stretched to at least 105%, preferably from 105% to 200%, of its length in a relaxed state, during intermittent interweaving. Additionally of alternatively, it is also conceivable that during the interweaving of the ordinary warp yarns with one or more ordinary weft yarns, the warp yarns and/or the one or more weft yarns are maintained and interwoven in a stretched state.

In an embodiment, the process further includes the step of applying an external stimulus to the woven upper. This step is preferably performed after completion of the intermittent interweaving, more preferably after discharge of the woven upper from the loom. The application of the external stimulus may, for example, include application of heat, pressure, reagents, or combinations thereof. In an embodiment, the application of the external stimulus includes vapor treatment. Additionally or alternatively, in an embodiment, the application of the external stimulus includes removal and/or discharge of an external pull force exerted during weaving. Application of the external stimulus may, for example, lead to transformation of the upper from an uncontracted state into a contracted state. Typically, application of the external stimulus may lead to contraction of flexible float yarns. In some embodiments, contraction of flexible float yarns leads to the upper adopting an essentially three-dimensional shape.

To enhance legibility and understanding of the invention, the invention was presented in the context of different aspects. However, all aspects form part of the same invention and share several embodiments with each other. Thus, the embodiments previously disclosed in the context of different aspects of the disclosure also apply to other aspects of the present disclosure, unless expressly stated otherwise.

In particular, it is understood that the woven upper and the pre-trimmed woven upper are interrelated with each other in that the woven upper may be manufactured from the pretrimmed woven upper, e.g. by trimming. In other words, the pre-trimmed woven upper may be seen as an intermediate product and the woven upper may also be labelled as “posttrimmed woven upper”.

A first main difference between the “pre-trimmed woven upper” and the woven upper (after trimming, i.e. post-trimmed woven upper) are that the pre-trimmed woven upper comprises at least one float zone, whereas the woven upper (after trimming) may, but does not have to comprise a float zone. A second main difference is that in the woven upper (after trimming), at least 50% of all float yarns have at least one trimmed end. In most embodiments of the pre-trimmed woven upper and the woven upper (after trimming), these are the only differences between the two uppers. As such, the embodiments disclosed in the context of the woven upper (after trimming, i.e. post-trimmed woven upper) are generally also embodiments of the pre-trimmed woven upper, and vice versa, with the exception of the two differences outlined above and unless this is expressly stated otherwise. Thus, for example, the different yarn types and properties, particularly the float yarn, the different embodiments relating to the functional zones, the lightweight zones, the float zones, the lacing system, among others, that are disclosed in the context of the woven upper also relate to the pre-trimmed woven upper, and vice versa.

To facility the understanding of the present disclosure, the terms “upper” and “woven upper” were used and both relate to the same “woven upper”. Further, the term “pre-trimmed woven upper” was used, in contrast to the woven upper after trimming, which may be labelled “post-trimmed woven upper”. Thus, in general the term “woven upper” (as long as it is not preceded by “pre-trimmed”, i.e. “pre-trimmed woven upper”) may optionally be replaced by “post-trimmed woven upper”, unless specified otherwise or unless the context dictates otherwise. Furthermore, in general, the embodiments of the woven upper disclosed in the context of the first aspect of the present disclosure relate to the woven upper after trimming, i.e. a “post-trimmed woven upper”. Given that the post-trimmed woven upper may be manufactured from the pre-trimmed woven upper, the embodiments of the woven upper disclosed in the context of the first aspect of the present disclosure may additionally relate to embodiments of the pre-trimmed woven upper, unless specified otherwise or unless the context dictates otherwise. For example, embodiments relating to the length and arrangement of the float yarns may be different for the pre-trimmed woven upper and the post-trimmed woven upper.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description present embodiments, and are intended to provide an overview or framework for understanding the nature and character of the disclosure. The accompanying drawings are included to provide a further understanding, and are incorporated into and constitute a part of this specification. The drawings illustrate various embodiments, and together with the description serve to explain the principles and operation of the concepts disclosed.

Brief description of the figures

The disclosure described herein will be more fully understood from the detailed description given herein below and the accompanying drawings, which should not be considered limiting to the invention described in the appended claims. The drawings are showing:

Fig. 1 shows an embodiment of a pre-trimmed woven upper having a lacing system, including a full view (figure 1A) and an enlarged section (figure 1 B);

Fig. 2 shows an illustration of an upper according to the embodiment illustrated in figure 1 , wherein the upper is in a pre-trimmed state and adopts an essentially flat shape in Fig. 2A and is in a trimmed state and adopts an essentially three- dimensional shape in Fig. 2B; Fig. 3 shows an embodiment of a pre-trimmed woven upper having reinforcement functional zones;

Fig. 4 shows an embodiment of a pre-trimmed woven upper having a padding zone;

Fig. 5 shows a woven upper corresponding to the pre-trimmed woven upper illustrated in figure 4 after trimming of the float yarns;

Fig. 6 shows an illustration of an upper according to the embodiment illustrated in figure 5;

Fig. 7 shows a shoe comprising an upper according to the present disclosure.

Exemplary embodiments

Figures 1A and 1 B show an embodiment of a pre-trimmed woven upper 1a. The pretrimmed woven upper comprises a weave 2 made by interweaving of a plurality of warp yarns with one or more weft yarns. Depending on the number and/or type of warp yarns and/or weft yarns used, the weave may have different areas. These areas may, for example, differ in the yarn density or in the weaving technique used. The areas may also differ in color.

Figure 1 A additionally shows a scale, in cm, relating to the woven upper shown in figure 1A. Figure 1 B shows an enlarged section of the upper of figure 1A.

The weave 2 of the upper 1a extends along an x direction and an orthogonal y direction. The x direction may be the warp direction and the y direction may be the weft direction. Alternatively, the x direction may be the weft direction and the y direction may be the warp direction. The pre-trimmed woven upper further includes a plurality of float yarns 3. The float yarns are interwoven with the weave in certain areas of the weave, thus forming functional zones 4. By being interwoven with the weave in the functional zone, the float yarns 3 are strongly and durably connected to the weave.

The pre-trimmed woven upper further includes a plurality of float zones 6 in which the float yarns 3 are essentially unwoven with the weave and arranged out of the weave plane. In the illustrated embodiment, the float yarns are arranged on a top surface in the float zones 6.

In the illustrated embodiment, the upper comprises multiple functional zones 4, which are interspaced such that they form a lacing system 7. The lacing system 7 comprises two medial rows of lacing loops 71 m and two lateral rows of lacing loops 711. The lacing system 7 further comprises a plurality of float zones 6. Each of the float zones 6 is arranged adjacent to a functional zone 4. More precisely, in the illustrated embodiment, each float zone 7 interspaces two functional zones 4. By interspacing two functional zones 4, a lacing loop 71 is formed, through which, e.g., a shoelace may be passed.

In general, the pre-trimmed woven uppers disclosed in the present application may be transformed into corresponding woven uppers 1 , that is “trimmed woven uppers” 1 , by trimming at least some of the float yarns. As an example, the pre-trimmed upper 1a illustrated in figure 1 may be transformed into a corresponding woven upper 1 by trimming all of the float yarns along the trimming lines T. The trimming may, for example, involve cutting of the float yarns 3. Typically, the float yarns 3 are trimmed at the intersection between the respective functional zone 4 and the adjacent float zone 6. In other words, typically, the float yarns 3 are typically trimmed within not more than 5 mm, preferably not more than 2 mm, preferably within not more than 1 mm, from an outer border of the respective functional zone. By trimming the float yarns along the trimming line T, a trimming end is formed that is close to the functional zone 4. Furthermore, the trimming results in loose ends of the float yarns which are removed. By removing the loose ends of the float yarns 3, those zones of the upper that were previously covered by the float yarns 3 and therefore previously qualified as float zones 6, now become lightweight zones 5 which are essentially free of float yarns 3. By contrast, some of the other float zones 6, namely those which interspace two functional zones 4 and therefore form a lacing loop 71 , remain float zones 6 because the respective sections of the float yarns 3 forming the float zones 6 are not removed.

The trimming process further illustrates that generally speaking, for at least some of the embodiments disclosed herein, pre-trimmed woven uppers 1a and their corresponding woven uppers 1 , i.e. “trimmed woven uppers” 1 or “post-trimmed woven uppers”, differ from each other primarily and only in that the pre-trimmed woven upper 1a includes at least one float zone 6, whereas the corresponding woven upper 1 , i.e. “trimmed woven upper” 1 , includes at least some float yarns 3 having a trimmed end.

Figures 2a and 2b show illustrations of a pre-trimmed woven upper 1a (figure 2a) and a woven upper (figure 2b) according to the embodiment illustrated in figure 1 . In figure 2a, the upper is in a pre-trimmed state and adopts an essentially flat shape, with the x-axis corresponding to the warp-direction and the y-axis corresponding to the weft direction. In figure 2b, the same upper has been trimmed, i.e. it is now in a trimmed state. The upper also adopts an essentially three-dimensional shape in figure 2b. Figure 2b also illustrates shoelaces passed through some of the lacing loops 71 of the lacing system 7.

Figure 3 illustrates a pre-trimmed woven upper 1a. Similar to the pre-trimmed woven upper illustrated in figure 1 , it also comprises a weave 2 and a plurality of float yarns 3 interwoven with the weave in certain areas of the weave, thus forming functional zones 4.

In the embodiment shown in figure 3, for some of the floats, TPU yarns were used, resulting in reinforcement functional zones 8, specifically in two heel reinforcement functional zones 82 and three toe box reinforcement functional zones 81 .

The pre-trimmed woven upper 1a further includes a plurality of float zones 6 in which the float yarns 3 are essentially unwoven with the weave and arranged out of the weave plane. In the illustrated embodiment, the float yarns 3 are arranged on a top surface in the float zones 6. In the illustrated upper 1a, there are five bundles each comprising a plurality of float yarns 3. The float yarns 3 of each bundle extends from a medial side to a lateral side of the upper 1a. Along their width, the float yarns 3 are intermittently interwoven with the weave and essentially unwoven with the weave. Thereby, functional zones 4 and float zones 6 are formed, which are alternating with each other. In particular, the pre-trimmed woven upper 1a comprises five float zones extending across the medial side of the upper and five float zones extending across the lateral side of the upper. These may, for example, be used to allow flexible deformation, e.g. contraction, of the upper along its width, while also providing high tensile strength once the bundles are taut.

Figure 2 additionally shows a scale, in cm. The weave 2 of the upper 1a extends along an x direction and an orthogonal y direction. The x direction may be the warp direction and the y direction may be the weft direction. Alternatively, the x direction may be the weft direction and the y direction may be the warp direction.

Figure 4 illustrates a pre-trimmed woven upper 1a. It comprises a weave 2 and a plurality of float yarns 3 interwoven with the weave in certain areas of the weave, thus forming functional zones 4.

One functional zone acts as a padding zone 9 which comprises a plurality of cells 91. Each of the cells 91 comprises an active section and a passive section. In the passive section, an elastic float yarn and a protrusion yarn are interwoven with the weave, such that the protrusion yarn is essentially arranged in the weave plane. In the active section, the protrusion yarn is essentially unwoven with the weave and essentially unwoven with the elastic float yarn, such that in the uncontracted state, the protrusion yarn extends essentially in parallel to the weave and in the contracted state, the elastic float yarns are contracted, such that the protrusion yarn bulges away from the weave plane. Figure 4 illustrates the uncontracted state. As an example, the upper illustrated in figure 4 may be woven under stretch. Figure 4 illustrates the upper in a pre-trimmed state. Thus, the upper 1a also comprises float zones 6 in which the float yarns are unwoven with the weave. Figure 5 illustrates the upper illustrated in figure 4, but in a trimmed state. Thus, the functional zones 4, including the padding zone 9, are unchanged, but the two floating zones 6 are no longer present but have become lightweight zones which are essentially free of float yarns.

In figures 4 and 5, the upper is illustrated in the uncontracted state. In other words, in figures 4 and 5, the upper is essentially planar.

Figure 6 shows an illustration of an upper according to the embodiment shown in figures 4 and 5, albeit in a contracted state. In other words, the upper shown in figure 6 is essentially three-dimensional. In particular, the active section of the cells 91 of the padding zone 9 bulge away from the weave plane, thus imparting three-dimensionality.

Figure 7 illustrates a shoe 10 comprising an upper 1 according to the present disclosure and a sole 11.

designations woven upper 711 lateral row of lacing loops pre-trimmed woven upper 8 reinforcing functional zone weave 81 toe box reinforcement functional warp yarns of the weave zone weft yarn of the weave 82 heel reinforcement functional zone float yarn 9 padding zone trimmed end 91 cells functional zone 10 shoe lightweight zone 11 sole float zone T trimming line lacing system lacing loop medial row of lacing loops

Claims

1. Woven upper (1) comprising

• a weave (2) that extends in a weave plane and is formed by a plurality of warp yarns interwoven with at least one weft yarn;

• a plurality of float yarns (3) which are interwoven with the weave (2) in one or more areas of the weave (2), thus defining one or more functional zones (4) of the upper (1), wherein for at least 50% of all float yarns (3), at least one trimmed end (31) of the respective float yarn (3) is arranged within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, of the respective functional zone (4); and

• one or more lightweight zones (5) in which the upper is essentially free of float yarns (3).

2. Woven upper (1) according to claim 1 , wherein the float yarns (3) differ from the warp yarns forming the weave (2) and from the at least one weft yarn forming the weave (2) in at least one parameter selected from:

• tensile strength;

• diameter;

• density;

• denier.

3. Woven upper (1) according to any of the previous claims, wherein each float yarn (3) has a length of less than 90%, preferably of less than 75%, relative to the length of the upper along the direction of the respective float yarn (3).

4. Woven upper (1) according to any one of the previous claims, further comprising one or more float zones (6) in which the one or more float yarns (3) are essentially unwoven with the weave (2) and arranged out of the weave plane, preferably extending in parallel to the weave plane.

5. Woven upper (1) according to any of the previous claim, wherein each float zone (6) is arranged between a first functional zone and a second functional zone, and wherein at least some of the float yarns (3) that are interwoven with the weave (2) in the first functional zone, extend from the first functional zone over the float zone (6), in which they are essentially unwoven with the weave (2), to the second functional zone, in which they are interwoven with the weave (2) again.

6. Woven upper according to any of the previous claim, wherein in each float zone (6), the respective float yarns (3) are essentially untangled, braided, twisted or knotted, preferably essentially untangled.

7. Woven upper according to any one of the previous claims, wherein for at least 50%, preferably all, of the float yarns (3), both ends of the respective float yarn (3) are arranged within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, of the respective functional zone.

8. Woven upper according to any one of the previous claims, wherein in the float zone (6), the respective float yarns (3) extend essentially parallel to the weave plane.

9. Woven upper according to any one of the previous claims, wherein the upper comprises at least 20 float yarns (3), preferably at least 50 float yarns (3).

10. Woven upper (1) according to any one of the previous claims, wherein the upper comprises one or more lacing loops (71), wherein each lacing loop (71) is formed by a float zone (6) arranged between two functional zones (4).

11. Woven upper (1) according to any one of the previous claim, wherein the upper comprises a lacing system (7) comprising a medial row of lacing loops (71 m) and an oppositely arranged lateral row of lacing loops (711), wherein the medial row of lacing loops (71m) and the lateral row of lacing loops (711) each comprise at least three functional zones (4) and at least two float zones (6) interspacing the functional zones (4).

12. Woven upper (1) according to any one of the previous claims, wherein the upper comprises at least one, preferably at least three functional zones configured for reinforcing the upper (8), wherein in the reinforcing functional zones (8), a reinforcing float yarn is interwoven with the weave (2), wherein the reinforcing float yarn comprises one or more of the following materials: Nylon, Polyester, Kevlar, Carbon fiber, Aramid, Spandex, Rayon, Acrylic, Polypropylene, coolmax, Graphene, Thermoplastic Polyurethane, Vectran and conductive fibers.

13. Woven upper according to any one of the previous claims, comprising:

• a toe box reinforcement functional zone (81) arranged in a toe area of the upper;

• a heel reinforcement functional zone (82) arranged in a heel area of the upper;

• a lateral reinforcement functional zone arranged in a lateral area of the upper; and/or

• a medial reinforcement functional zone arranged in a medial area of the upper.

14. Woven upper according to any one of the previous claims, wherein the upper comprises at least one float zone (6) extending across a medial and/or lateral side of the upper.

15. Woven upper (1) according to any one of the previous claims, wherein the upper comprises elastic float yarns having a higher elasticity than the warp yarns forming the weave (2) and/or than the weft yarn forming the weave (2), such that the upper may be reversibly transformed from a contracted state into an uncontracted state by exerting a pull force along the direction along which the elastic float yarns extend.

16. Woven upper (1) according to claim 15, wherein at least some of the elastic float yarns are arranged in a float zone (6), such that in the uncontracted state, the elastic float yarns are stretched and extend essentially in parallel to the weave (2), and in the contracted state, the elastic float yarns are contracted, such that the weave (2) of the float zone (6) protrudes away from to the elastic float yarns.

17. Woven upper (1) according to any one of claims 15-16, wherein at least some of the elastic float yarns are arranged in a functional zone configured to act as a padding zone (9), wherein the functional padding zone comprises a plurality of cells (91) each comprising an active section and a passive section,

• wherein in the passive section, the elastic float yarn and a protrusion yarn are interwoven with the weave (2), such that the protrusion yarn is essentially arranged in the weave plane;

• wherein in the active section, the protrusion yarn is essentially unwoven with the weave (2) and essentially unwoven with the elastic float yarn, such that i. in the uncontracted state, the protrusion yarn extends essentially in parallel to the weave (2) and ii. in the contracted state, the elastic float yarns are contracted, such that the protrusion yarn protrudes away from the weave plane.

18. Pre-trimmed woven upper (1a) comprising: • a weave (2) extending in a weave plane and formed by a plurality of warp yarns interwoven with at least one weft yarn;

• wherein the pre-trimmed woven upper (1a) further comprises one or more functional zones, one or more lightweight zones and one or more float zones (6);

• wherein the pre-trimmed woven upper (1a) further comprises a plurality of float yarns (3) which are interwoven with the weave (2) in one or more areas of the weave (2), thus defining the one or more functional zones (4),

• wherein the float yarns (3) extend from the respective functional zone (4) to an adjacent float zone (6) of the pre-trimmed woven upper (1a) in which the float yarns (3) are essentially unwoven with the weave (2) and arranged out of the weave plane; and

• wherein in the one or more lightweight zones (5), the pre-trimmed woven upper (1a) is essentially free of the float yarns (3).

19. Pre-trimmed woven upper (1a) according to claim 18, wherein each float yarn (3) extends across the entire length of the pre-trimmed woven upper (1a) along the direction of the respective float yarn (3).

20. Shoe (10) comprising the woven upper (1 ) according to any one of the previous claims and a sole (11).

21. Process for manufacturing a woven upper (1 , 1a) comprising: interweaving a plurality of warp yarns with at least one weft yarn to provide a weave (2) extending in a weave plane defined by an x direction and an orthogonal y direction; • intermittently interweaving at least one float yarn (3) with the plurality of warp yarns and/or with the at least one weft yarn according to a predetermined interweave pattern defining for each x-y-position on the weave plane, whether that x-y-position is located either in a functional zone, or in a float zone (6), or in a lightweight zone (5),

• wherein the intermittent interweaving comprises: i. if the respective x-y-position is located in a functional zone, interweaving at least one float yarn (3) with the weave (2) at the respective x-y- position; ii. if the respective x-y-position is located in a float zone (6), not interweaving the at least one float yarn (3) and arranging the at least one float yarn (3) out of the weave plane; iii. if the respective x-y-position is located in a lightweight zone (5), omitting all float yarns (3) at the respective x-y-position.

22. Process according to claim 21 , further comprising trimming at least 50%, preferably at least 90%, more preferably 100%, of all float yarns (3) within 10 mm, preferably within 5 mm, of the respective functional zone with which the float yarn (3) is interwoven.

23. Process according to any one of claims 21-22, wherein during the intermittent interweaving of the float yarn (3), the float yarn (3) is maintained and interwoven in a stretched state.

24. Process according to any one of claims 21-23, wherein during the interweaving of the warp yarns with one or more weft yarns, the warp yarns and/or the one or more weft yarns are maintained and interwoven in a stretched state.