WO2025069043A1 - Sustainable compositions and methods for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres - Google Patents
Sustainable compositions and methods for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres Download PDFInfo
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- WO2025069043A1 WO2025069043A1 PCT/IN2024/051262 IN2024051262W WO2025069043A1 WO 2025069043 A1 WO2025069043 A1 WO 2025069043A1 IN 2024051262 W IN2024051262 W IN 2024051262W WO 2025069043 A1 WO2025069043 A1 WO 2025069043A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
Definitions
- the present disclosure relates, in general, to personal care compositions, and particularly, to compositions and method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres.
- oxidation dye precursors generally referred to as oxidation bases and couplers.
- oxidation bases and couplers These dye precursors are colourless or weakly coloured compounds.
- oxidation bases and couplers When combined with an oxidizing agent, they give rise, by a process of oxidative condensation, to coloured compounds.
- the method of oxidation dyeing involves applying, to keratin fibres, oxidation bases, or a mixture of oxidation bases and couplers, with an oxidizing agent, which is added at the time of use.
- this method is implemented at an alkaline pH, and produces a dyeing and, at the same time, a lightening of the fibre, by the decolourization of the melanin pigment in hair. In this manner, the colourants develop into the cortex of hair and a uniform colour development is achieved.
- composition comprising: at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or, combinations thereof:
- Ri is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH 3 )COOH, -(CH 2 )2N(COR 3 )-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH 2 -COOH;
- R 2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom;
- R 3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent.
- a method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair comprising applying a composition comprising: at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
- Ri is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH 3 )COOH, -(CH 2 )2N(COR 3 )-CH 2 -COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH 2 -COOH;
- R 2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom;
- R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent, on said keratin fibres.
- the term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
- CTFA Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association which publishes the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook as a reference for cosmetic ingredients.
- optical isomers includes compounds which contain the same number and kinds of atoms and bonds, and different spatial arrangements of the atoms, but which have non- superimposable mirror images.
- geometric isomers includes two or more coordination compounds which contain the same number and types of atoms and bonds, but which have different spatial arrangements of the atoms.
- a percentage range of about 10% to 30% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly recited limits of about 10% to about 30%, but also to include sub-ranges, such as 12% to 25%, 15% to 22%, and so forth, as well as individual amounts, including fractional amounts, within the specified ranges, such as 10.5 %, and 25.75 %, for example.
- Embodiments herein provide a composition that demonstrates good working qualities, such as ease of mixing, consistency, and application to hair, and is easily rinsed out after application.
- the composition also delivers superior performance benefits, including superior lightening/bleaching effects, uniform colour uptake, intense colour, chromatic colour, uniform colour, long-lasting colour and conditioning effect.
- superior lightening/bleaching effects including superior lightening/bleaching effects, uniform colour uptake, intense colour, chromatic colour, uniform colour, long-lasting colour and conditioning effect.
- these desirable properties result from the synergistic activity of the components of at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), as provided herein, and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent of the composition provided in embodiments herein.
- composition for altering the appearance of keratin fibres, such as hair, by applying said composition on the keratin fibres.
- the composition is used for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, such as hair.
- the composition incorporates ingredients that are biodegradable and do not bioaccumulate in the environment, resulting in a more ecofriendly product.
- Embodiments of the present invention relate to a composition
- a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
- Ri is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH 3 )COOH, -(CH 2 )2N(COR 3 )-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH 2 -COOH;
- R 2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom;
- R 3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or alkaline agent.
- the composition is an ecofriendly composition that reduces the use of ingredients that are detrimental to the environment.
- it incorporates the use of the at least one carboxylic acid of the formula (I), according to embodiments herein, which plays an important role in providing uniform hair lightening and colour delivery and is an environmentally friendly ingredient.
- the composition delivers good working qualities such as ease of mixing, emulsifying, and good consistency which aids in uniform application of said composition on hair.
- the composition provides long lasting colour and superior colour uptake, intense colour, chromatic colour, uniform colour, or lightening effect while also providing a conditioning effect and nourishment to hair resulting in lustre, suppleness, and smoothness of hair without leaving a feel perceived to be greasy.
- composition according to the present invention, comprises at least one fatty alcohol.
- fatty alcohol includes a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH).
- the fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
- the fatty alcohols are selected from Cu to C40 fatty alcohols.
- the fatty alcohols are non- oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated.
- the fatty alcohols are different from nonionic surfactants.
- the fatty alcohols are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated and are different from nonionic surfactants.
- the fatty alcohols are selected from compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
- the fatty alcohols are selected from 8 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 30, better from 12 to 24, or even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the fatty alcohols may be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols or combinations thereof.
- solid fatty alcohol includes a fatty alcohol with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
- the solid fatty alcohols may be selected from compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30, more preferably from 12 to 24 atoms, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the solid fatty alcohols are selected from lauryl alcohol (or 1 -dodecanol); myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1- hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1- eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1- tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1- octacosanol); and myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
- lauryl alcohol or 1 -dodecanol
- myristyl alcohol or 1 -tetradecanol
- cetyl alcohol or 1- hexadecanol
- stearyl alcohol or 1 -octadecanol
- the solid fatty alcohols are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, such as, cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, may be selected from mixtures of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and/or mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol.
- the liquid fatty alcohols that may be used, according to the present invention are preferably selected from compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated and/or branched, alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30, more preferably from 12 to 24, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
- liquid fatty alcohol includes a fatty alcohol with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
- the liquid fatty alcohols may be used alone or as a combination, and maybe selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2- octyl-1 -dodec anol, 2-butyloctanol, 2 -hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-decyl-l -tetradecanol, 2- tetradecyl-l-cetanol, or combinations thereof, and more preferably is oleyl alcohol.
- the fatty alcohol(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from at least one solid fatty alcohol or at least one liquid fatty alcohol, preferably from at least one solid fatty alcohol comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and more preferably comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, and preferably is cetearyl alcohol.
- the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 40%, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) selected from solid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, and is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30 % by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.
- cationic polysaccharide includes any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.
- the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or mixtures thereof, preferably is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof.
- cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in French patent 1492597, and in particular are selected from the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Dow chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. The polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these polymers.
- cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
- the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
- cationic galactomannan gums are described in US patents 3589578 and 4031307, and particularly selected from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably Ci-C 6 trialkylammonium groups.
- Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride).
- a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example, chloride.
- Such products are especially sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, or JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
- the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof.
- the cationic polysaccharide(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from guar gums comprising cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
- the cationic polysaccharides are selected from polymers with INCI names, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or their combinations, better is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
- the cationic polysaccharide(s), is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the fatty acids comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
- the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the fatty acids are selected from compounds having the structure R a -C(O)OH in which R a represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
- the fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Further, they may be present as free form or as the neutralized, partly, or totally, form.
- the fatty acids are selected from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, or combinations thereof.
- solid fatty acid includes a fatty acid with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
- the solid fatty acids are selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, or combinations thereof.
- the solid fatty acids may be selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof, and more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof.
- liquid fatty acid includes a fatty acid with a melting point of less than or equal to 25 °C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
- the liquid fatty acid may be selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, or combinations thereof, preferably oleic acid.
- the fatty acid(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from fatty acids comprising Cio to C24 atoms, more preferably selected from C12-C18 fatty acids.
- the fatty acid(s) present in the composition is(are) selected from solid fatty acid(s).
- the fatty acid(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof .
- the fatty acid(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and preferentially from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of the fatty acid(s) selected from solid fatty acids in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.1% to 15%, and preferably in a weight range of 0.2% to 10%, and preferentially from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
- Ri represents hydrogen atom, or a -CH(COOH)-(CH 2 ) 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH(CH 3 )COOH, -(CH 2 ) 2 N(COR 3 )-CH 2 -COOH, or -CH(COOH)- CH 2 -COOH group;
- R 2 represents a CH 2 COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or R 2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom;
- R 3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to:
- Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R 2 represents a -CH 2 -COOH group, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH 2 ) 2 -COOH group and R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-CH 2 -COOH group and R 2 represents a hydrogen atom;
- the carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
- the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to the present invention may take the form of pure enantiomers, preferably in L configuration, or the form of mixtures, or the form of racemic mixtures.
- the salts of the one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I) are selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, ammonium salts, or combinations thereof.
- alkali metal salts include especially sodium (Na + ) and potassium (K + ) salts
- alkaline earth metal salts include especially calcium (Ca 2+ ) and magnesium (Mg 2+ ) salts.
- a “transition metal” is a metal comprising an incomplete d subshell, and more particularly in the II oxidation state, such as cobalt (Co 2+ ), iron (Fe 2+ ), manganese (Mn 2+ ), zinc (Zn 2+ ) and copper (Cu 2+ ).
- the organic amine salts may be made of the salts of primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, or alternatively of alkanolamines.
- the amines exhibit one or more identical or non-identical radicals, of linear or branched Ci to C20 alkyl type, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.
- the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to embodiments herein, are selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N- lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
- the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to embodiments herein, are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N- bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
- the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to embodiments herein, are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
- GLDA N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid
- N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-aspartic acid alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
- the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to embodiments herein, is N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA) and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate.
- GLDA N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid
- tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate is N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA) and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate.
- N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N- bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate and N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid are respectively represented by compounds (II), (III) and (IV) below: [0095]
- the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition may comprise at least one oxidative dye.
- the oxidative dye includes at least one oxidation base and/or at least one oxidation coupler.
- the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidation bases in combination with one or more couplers.
- Oxidation bases are generally colourless or weakly coloured compounds which when mixed with oxidizing compounds give rise to coloured compounds or dye. Further, the colour shades obtained with such oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with oxidation couplers or colour modifiers.
- the oxidation base(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from a group consisting of para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts.
- the addition salts of the oxidation bases are preferably selected from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines, or alkanolamines.
- an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates
- a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines, or alkanolamines.
- the para-phenylenediamines are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N- diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N -dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino- N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4- N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(0- hydroxy
- the para-phenylenediamines are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2- isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-0-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-0-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(0-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro- para-phenylenediamine, 2-0-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, or, preferably, the addition salts
- the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines are selected from N,N'-bis(0-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'- bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis-(0-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'- aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'- bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'- amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, l,8-bis(2,5-diamin
- the para- aminophenols may be selected from, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3- fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4- amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P- hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, or the addition salts thereof with an acid.
- the addition salt is salt of sulphurous acid or sodium metabisulphite salt.
- the ortho-aminophenols are selected from, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5- methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, or the addition salts thereof.
- heterocyclic bases that may be used are selected from pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
- pyridine derivatives may be selected from the compounds as described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and/or GB 1 153 196, including 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3- aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, or the addition salts thereof.
- the pyridine derivatives may further be selected from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases, or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.
- Examples of such bases include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2- methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7- yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2- yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[
- the pyrimidine derivatives may be selected from the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, including 2, 4,5,6- tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, or their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
- the pyrazole derivatives may be selected from, for example, the compounds described in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 or patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 or DE 195 43 988, including for example 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(P- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)- pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-phenyl- pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5- hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -
- Mention may be preferably made to 4,5-diaminopyrazole, and even more preferably of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, or its salts thereof.
- the pyrazole derivatives also include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolo pyrazolones and especially those described in patent application FRA 2886136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]
- the heterocyclic base may be selected from 4,5-diamino-l-(
- the oxidation bases are selected from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, paraaminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, the corresponding addition salts, or combinations thereof, preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl- para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts thereof, or combinations thereof.
- the oxidation coupler(s), according to the present invention, that may be used, is(are) selected from a group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta- aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers, and their addition salts.
- the oxidation couplers may be selected from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1- methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5- amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2- amino-4-(P-hy droxy ethylamino)- 1 -methoxybenzene, 1 ,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3- bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-l- dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, l-P-hydroxye
- the oxidation couplers may be selected from 1,3 -dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1,3 -dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1- methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5- amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2, 4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxy ethyloxy )benzene, a- naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-
- the oxidation couplers are further selected from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino- 3 -hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P- hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl- 3, 4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, their addition salts, or combinations thereof.
- the addition salts of the oxidation couplers are selected from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
- an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates
- a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
- the oxidation couplers are selected from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino- 3 -hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P- hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl- 3, 4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, a-naphthol, the addition salts thereof, the salts thereof, solvates of the salts thereof, or combinations thereof.
- the oxidation couplers are selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, or combinations thereof.
- composition according to embodiments herein is, in some embodiments, free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2- methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, or the addition salts thereof.
- the total amount of the oxidation coupler(s), is(are) in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the oxidation base(s) and coupler(s) may be in suitable amounts such that the total amount of oxidative dye, according to the present invention, is in an amount ranging from 0.0002% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition may comprise at least one alkaline agent.
- composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkaline agent
- the alkaline agent(s) that may be used is(are) selected from at least one mineral, organic, or hybrid alkaline agent.
- the mineral alkaline agents are preferably selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, or mixtures thereof.
- the organic alkaline agents are preferably selected from alkanolamines.
- the alkanolamines are selected from monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C10 hydroxyalkyl radicals.
- the organic amines are selected from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines, or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C10 hydroxyalkyl radicals, which are in particular suitable for performing the present invention.
- the alkanolamine(s), according to embodiments herein, are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3- propanediol, 3-amino- 1 ,2-propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino- 1 ,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, or combinations thereof.
- MEA monoethanolamine
- diethanolamine triethanolamine
- monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
- N,N-dimethylethanolamine 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol
- 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol triisopropanolamine
- the alkaline agent(s), according to the embodiments herein, is(are) selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline-earth metal metasilicates, or combinations thereof.
- the alkaline agent(s), according to embodiments herein, the alkaline agents (is) are selected from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide, or combinations thereof more preferably the alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines, better is monoethanolamine.
- the alkaline agent(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the alkaline agent(s) is(are) selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, or their mixtures and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the alkaline agent(s) selected from alkanolamines is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
- the composition of the invention is a ready to use composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
- the oxidizing agent(s), according to the present invention may be selected from, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and/or precursors thereof, or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals.
- the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
- the oxidizing agent(s) is(are) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention is free of oxidizing agent.
- the composition is preferably mixed with a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent immediately before use.
- composition may optionally include at least one additive, that are different from the compounds of the present invention.
- the additives that may be used are selected from mineral thickening agents, non-ionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, oils, polyols, polymers, chelating agents, sequestrants, solvents, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, and preservatives.
- the total amount of each of the additive(s), in a particular embodiment, is in an amount ranging from 0.01% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition may also optionally include at least one solvent.
- the solvents of the composition are selected from water and/or at least one organic solvent.
- the organic solvents are selected from linear or branched, and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol (2- methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-l,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C1-C4 alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol
- the organic solvent(s), according to the present invention, when present, is( are) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably 0.4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention is preferably aqueous.
- the total amount of water in the composition is in a weight range of 30% to 99%, preferably in a weight range of 40% to 95% by weight, and more preferably 45% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Embodiments provided herein also include a kit comprising a composition (A) as described in the embodiments herein above comprising at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof, at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
- the compositions (A) and (B) are intended to be mixed together at the time of use to obtain a ready to use composition which is then applied to keratin fibres for dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres.
- the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9.0 and 10.5.
- compositions (A) and (B) may be present in separate sachets or containers or in a single dual compartment sachet, optionally accompanied with suitable one or more applicators which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
- suitable one or more applicators which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
- the kit mentioned above may also be equipped with a means for dispensing the desired mixture onto the hair, for instance the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
- the composition of the present invention may be manufactured using known methods that are generally used in the cosmetics or dermatological field.
- the method for preparation of the composition comprises blending the at least one fatty alcohol; the at least one cationic polysaccharide; the at least one fatty acid; the at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), and the at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent, with a suitable solvent, and optionally one or more additives to obtain the composition.
- Embodiments herein further include a method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair.
- the method comprises applying the composition, according to the present invention, on said fibres.
- Embodiments herein also include methods for manufacturing the composition (A) and composition (B) of the kit provided herein.
- the method of preparation of the composition (A) is according to the method described herein above comprising blending the at least one fatty alcohol; the at least one cationic polysaccharide; the at least one fatty acid; the at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), and the at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent, with a suitable solvent, and optionally one or more additives to obtain the composition (A).
- the method of preparation of the composition (B) comprises blending oxidizing agent with a suitable solvent and optionally, comprising the additive to obtain the composition (B).
- the composition may be allowed to stand for a pause time in a range of 5 to 45 minutes to dye said keratin fibres. In some embodiments, the composition is allowed to stand for a pause time in a range of 5 to 15 minutes.
- the composition according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing composition comprising preferably hydrogen peroxide immediately before use.
- the temperature during the method is conventionally between room temperature (from 15°C to 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
- Embodiments herein include use of the composition of the present invention.
- composition may be used for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, particularly hair.
- the composition may be used for the purpose of colour change, colour lightening/bleaching of hair, and/or coverage of greying hair.
- composition may be used on natural hair and/or artificial hair, including hair extensions.
- the composition may be used at different temperatures, including conventionally at room temperature (between 15°C to 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60 °C.
- Composition A (according to the invention) was prepared using 6 wt% vegetable oil (i.e) sunflower oil; polyol viz. 5 wt% of propylene glycol; cationic polysaccharide viz. 0.5 wt% guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; 0.05 wt% of cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; carboxylic acid viz. 0.2 wt% of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; surfactants viz. 1.50 wt% of laureth-12, 3 wt% of laureth-4, 1.50 wt% of oleth-20 and 2.40 wt%, of polysorbate 21; fatty alcohol viz.
- vegetable oil i.e
- polyol viz. 5 wt% of propylene glycol
- cationic polysaccharide viz. 0.5 wt% guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
- the vegetable oil (sunflower seed oil) used in the composition, according to embodiments herein, was commercially procured from Europe ADM Speciality Oil and Fats (Societe Industrielle des Oleagineux).
- Comparative composition Al was prepared similarly as composition A, except in composition Al 0.2% by weight of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) was substituted with 0.2% ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Composition A is therefore a more environmentally benign composition than composition Al.
- GLDA tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
- EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
- compositions A and Al are provided in Table 1 below, expressed in % by weight.
- the oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in Table 2 below, expressed in % by weight: Table 2
- Protocol The working qualities, including ease of mixing and application, consistency, ease of emulsifying, and ease of rinsing, were tested on consumer participants/volunteers. 4 participants with mid-length to long hair, with average to high quantity and with 0% to 20% grey hair were selected. Prior to the application of the compositions, a full head shampoo of the participants’ hair was done, and the hair was blast dried thereafter.
- composition A and the comparative composition Al were mixed independently with the oxidizing composition B in a weight ratio of 1: 1 to obtain mixtures 1 and 2, respectively.
- Mixture 2 comprising composition Al had a creamy texture with white colour, with a medium thick consistency.
- mixture 2 was found by the participants to be easy to mix (rated 3 on a scale of 5 with 1 indicating very difficult mixing and 5 indicating very very easy mixing) as it required more strokes to mix and was rated as easy to apply to hair with uniform application. It was also rated as easy to emulsify (rated 3 on a scale of 1 indicating very difficult emulsification and 5 indicating very very easy emulsification) and easy to rinse out of hair.
- mixture 2 had lower lustre and sheen, and also had lower lightening effect
- mixture 1 was preferred by consumers over mixture 2 for its working qualities and performance, indicating that the ingredients of the composition A, function synergistically to provide desired effects.
- Mixture 1 was found to be very easy to mix and also emulsified very easily. The consistency of mixture 1 was also preferred as it had a thicker and creamier consistency which was easy to apply, while the consistency of mixture 2 was thinner and not as preferable. Mixture 1 was also found to give a more soft and supple feel to hair with lustre and better lightening effect, among others.
- composition of the present disclosure demonstrates good working qualities. It is easy to mix, emulsify and apply to hair in a uniform manner and therefore, is less time-consuming to apply while providing good performance in terms of lightening and conditioning of hair.
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Abstract
The present disclosure provides a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof: formula (I); with at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent. Also provided, is a method of dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising applying the composition on said keratin fibres.
Description
SUSTAINABLE COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR DYEING AND/OR LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBRES
FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] The present disclosure relates, in general, to personal care compositions, and particularly, to compositions and method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres.
BACKGROUND OF INVENTION
[0002] The dyeing of keratin fibres, particularly human hair, is a well- known practice, and commonly involves the use of coloring compositions, which comprise oxidation dye precursors, generally referred to as oxidation bases and couplers. These dye precursors are colourless or weakly coloured compounds. When combined with an oxidizing agent, they give rise, by a process of oxidative condensation, to coloured compounds.
[0003] Typically, the method of oxidation dyeing involves applying, to keratin fibres, oxidation bases, or a mixture of oxidation bases and couplers, with an oxidizing agent, which is added at the time of use.
[0004] Generally, this method is implemented at an alkaline pH, and produces a dyeing and, at the same time, a lightening of the fibre, by the decolourization of the melanin pigment in hair. In this manner, the colourants develop into the cortex of hair and a uniform colour development is achieved.
[0005] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0006] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin
and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0007] Thus, there is a need for dyeing/lightening products that have good working qualities in addition to good performance notably in terms of lightening, colour uptake and conditioning of hair, that are also environmentally friendly.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0008] In an aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a composition comprising: at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or, combinations thereof:
RI-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2
(I) wherein, Ri is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent.
[0009] In an aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising applying a composition comprising: at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
RI-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2
(I) wherein, Ri is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; R2
represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent, on said keratin fibres. [0010] These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and appended claims. This summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] Those skilled in the art will be aware that the present disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is to be understood that the present disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds referred to or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any and all combinations of any or more of such steps or features. Definitions
[0012] For convenience, before further description of the present disclosure, certain terms employed in the specification and examples are delineated here. These definitions should be read in the light of the remainder of the disclosure and understood as by a person of skill in the art. The terms used herein have the meanings recognized and known to those of skill in the art, however, for convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth below.
[0013] The articles “a”, “an” and “the” are used to refer to one or to more than one (i.e., to at least one) of the grammatical object of the article.
[0014] The terms “comprise” and “comprising” are used in the inclusive, open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to be construed as “consists of only”.
[0015] The term "at least one" is used to mean one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
[0016] Throughout this specification, unless the context requires otherwise the word “comprise”, and variations such as “comprises” and “comprising”, will be understood to imply the inclusion of a stated element or step or group of element or steps but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of element or steps. [0017] The term “including” is used to mean “including but not limited to”. “Including” and “including but not limited to” are used interchangeably.
[0018] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
[0019] The term “CTFA” is an abbreviation of Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association which publishes the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook as a reference for cosmetic ingredients.
[0020] The term "optical isomers” includes compounds which contain the same number and kinds of atoms and bonds, and different spatial arrangements of the atoms, but which have non- superimposable mirror images.
[0021] The term “geometric isomers” includes two or more coordination compounds which contain the same number and types of atoms and bonds, but which have different spatial arrangements of the atoms.
[0022] All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure unless otherwise indicated. Ratios, concentrations, amounts, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a range format. It is to be understood that such range format is used merely for convenience and brevity and should be interpreted flexibly to include not only the numerical values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also to include all the individual numerical values or sub-ranges encompassed within that range as if
each numerical value and sub-range is explicitly recited. For example, a percentage range of about 10% to 30% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly recited limits of about 10% to about 30%, but also to include sub-ranges, such as 12% to 25%, 15% to 22%, and so forth, as well as individual amounts, including fractional amounts, within the specified ranges, such as 10.5 %, and 25.75 %, for example.
[0023] Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure belongs. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, the preferred methods and materials are now described. All publications mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference.
[0024] The present disclosure is not to be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for the purposes of exemplification only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the disclosure, as described herein.
[0025] Embodiments herein provide a composition that demonstrates good working qualities, such as ease of mixing, consistency, and application to hair, and is easily rinsed out after application. The composition also delivers superior performance benefits, including superior lightening/bleaching effects, uniform colour uptake, intense colour, chromatic colour, uniform colour, long-lasting colour and conditioning effect. Specifically, these desirable properties result from the synergistic activity of the components of at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), as provided herein, and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent of the composition provided in embodiments herein. Accordingly, provided herein is a method for altering the appearance of keratin fibres, such as hair, by applying said composition on the keratin fibres. The composition, according to embodiments herein, is used for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, such as hair.
[0026] In particular, the composition, according to embodiments herein, incorporates ingredients that are biodegradable and do not bioaccumulate in the environment, resulting in a more ecofriendly product.
Composition
[0027] Embodiments of the present invention relate to a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
RI-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2
(I) wherein, Ri is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or alkaline agent.
[0028] The composition is an ecofriendly composition that reduces the use of ingredients that are detrimental to the environment. In particular, it incorporates the use of the at least one carboxylic acid of the formula (I), according to embodiments herein, which plays an important role in providing uniform hair lightening and colour delivery and is an environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0029] The composition delivers good working qualities such as ease of mixing, emulsifying, and good consistency which aids in uniform application of said composition on hair.
[0030] In addition, the composition provides long lasting colour and superior colour uptake, intense colour, chromatic colour, uniform colour, or lightening effect while also providing a conditioning effect and nourishment to hair
resulting in lustre, suppleness, and smoothness of hair without leaving a feel perceived to be greasy.
Fatty alcohols
[0031] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at least one fatty alcohol.
[0032] The term “fatty alcohol” includes a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH).
[0033] In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0034] Preferably, the fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, are selected from Cu to C40 fatty alcohols.
[0035] The fatty alcohols, according to the present invention, are non- oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated.
[0036] In particular, the fatty alcohols are different from nonionic surfactants.
[0037] The fatty alcohols, according to the present invention, are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated and are different from nonionic surfactants.
[0038] Preferably, the fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, are selected from compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0039] More preferably, the fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, are selected from 8 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 30, better from 12 to 24, or even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0040] The fatty alcohols, according to the present invention, may be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols or combinations thereof.
[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty alcohol" includes a fatty alcohol with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
[0042] In an embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols may be selected from compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30, more preferably from 12 to 24 atoms, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0043] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, that may be used, alone or as a mixture, are selected from lauryl alcohol (or 1 -dodecanol); myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1- hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1- eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1- tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1- octacosanol); and myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0044] The solid fatty alcohols, in a further embodiment, are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, such as, cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, may be selected from mixtures of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and/or mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0045] The liquid fatty alcohols that may be used, according to the present invention, are preferably selected from compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated and/or branched, alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30, more preferably from 12 to 24, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid fatty alcohol" includes a fatty alcohol with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
[0047] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, may be used alone or as a combination, and maybe selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2- octyl-1 -dodec anol, 2-butyloctanol, 2 -hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-decyl-l -tetradecanol, 2- tetradecyl-l-cetanol, or combinations thereof, and more preferably is oleyl alcohol. [0048] Preferably, the fatty alcohol(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from at least one solid fatty alcohol or at least one liquid fatty alcohol, preferably from at least one solid fatty alcohol comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and more preferably comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0049] More preferably, the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, and preferably is cetearyl alcohol.
[0050] In a particular embodiment, the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 40%, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] Preferably, the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) selected from solid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, and is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30 % by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polysaccharides
[0052] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0053] The term "cationic polysaccharide" includes any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.
[0054] In an embodiment, the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or mixtures thereof, preferably is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof.
[0055] Examples of cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, according to the present invention, are described in French patent 1492597, and in particular are selected from the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Dow chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. The polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these polymers.
[0056] The cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, according to the present invention, are described especially in US patent 4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0057] The cationic galactomannan gums, according to the present invention, are described in US patents 3589578 and 4031307, and particularly selected from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably Ci-C6 trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride). Such products are especially sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, or JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
[0058] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof.
[0059] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from guar gums comprising cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
[0060] Even more preferably, the cationic polysaccharides are selected from polymers with INCI names, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or their combinations, better is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0061] In a particular embodiment, the cationic polysaccharide(s), is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty acids
[0064] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at least one fatty acid.
[0065] The term “fatty acid” includes a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0066] In an embodiment, the fatty acids comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
[0067] Preferably, the fatty acids, according to embodiments herein, comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0068] More preferably, the fatty acids, according to embodiments herein, include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0069] The fatty acids, according to the present invention, are selected from compounds having the structure Ra-C(O)OH in which Ra represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0070] The fatty acids, according to embodiments herein, are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Further, they may be present as free form or as the neutralized, partly, or totally, form.
[0071] In an embodiment, the fatty acids are selected from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, or combinations thereof.
[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid fatty acid” includes a fatty acid with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
[0073] The solid fatty acids, according to the present invention, are selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0074] Preferably, the solid fatty acids, according to embodiments herein, may be selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof, and more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” includes a fatty acid with a melting point of less than or equal to 25 °C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
[0076] The liquid fatty acid, according to the present invention, may be selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, or combinations thereof, preferably oleic acid.
[0077] Preferably, the fatty acid(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from fatty acids comprising Cio to C24 atoms, more preferably selected from C12-C18 fatty acids.
[0078] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition is(are) selected from solid fatty acid(s).
[0079] More preferably, the fatty acid(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof .
[0080] In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and preferentially from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] Preferably, the total amount of the fatty acid(s) selected from solid fatty acids, in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.1% to 15%, and preferably in a weight range of 0.2% to 10%, and preferentially from 0.4% to 5%
by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Carboxylic acids
[0082] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
RI-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2
(I) in which:
Ri represents hydrogen atom, or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)- CH2-COOH group; and
- R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and
- R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0083] Preferably, according to embodiments herein, the carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to:
- compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;
- compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents the - CH(CH3)-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and to
- compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents the - CH2CH2OH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0084] More preferably, according to embodiments herein, the carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0085] The carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to the present invention, may take the form of pure enantiomers, preferably in L configuration, or the form of mixtures, or the form of racemic mixtures.
[0086] In an embodiment, the salts of the one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I) are selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, ammonium salts, or combinations thereof.
[0087] Examples of alkali metal salts include especially sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, whereas examples of alkaline earth metal salts include especially calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.
[0088] For the purposes of the present invention, a “transition metal” is a metal comprising an incomplete d subshell, and more particularly in the II oxidation state, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).
[0089] The organic amine salts, according to present invention, may be made of the salts of primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, or alternatively of alkanolamines. The amines exhibit one or more identical or non-identical radicals, of linear or branched Ci to C20 alkyl type, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.
[0090] Preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to embodiments herein, are selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N- lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic
amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0091] More preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to embodiments herein, are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N- bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0092] Even more preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to embodiments herein, are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0093] Preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to embodiments herein, is N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA) and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate.
[0094] N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N- bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate and N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid are respectively represented by compounds (II), (III) and (IV) below:
[0095] In a particular embodiment, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oxidative dye
[0096] The composition, according to the present invention, may comprise at least one oxidative dye.
[0097] The oxidative dye, according to the present invention, includes at least one oxidation base and/or at least one oxidation coupler. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidation bases in combination with one or more couplers.
[0098] Oxidation bases are generally colourless or weakly coloured compounds which when mixed with oxidizing compounds give rise to coloured compounds or dye. Further, the colour shades obtained with such oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with oxidation couplers or colour modifiers.
[0099] Preferably, the oxidation base(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from a group consisting of para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts.
[0100] In an embodiment, the addition salts of the oxidation bases are preferably selected from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines, or alkanolamines.
[0101] The para-phenylenediamines, according to the present invention, that may be used are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-
dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N- diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N -dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino- N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4- N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(0- hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para- phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2- hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl-0-hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N-(0,y- dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N -phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- 0-hydroxyethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, 2-0-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(0- methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4- aminophenylpyrrolidine, 3-hydroxy- l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, 2-0- hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene, and/or the addition salts thereof with an acid.
[0102] Preferably, the para-phenylenediamines, according to embodiments herein, are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2- isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-0-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-0-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(0-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro- para-phenylenediamine, 2-0-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, or, preferably, the addition salts thereof with an acid, or combinations thereof.
[0103] The bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, according to the present invention, that may be used are selected from N,N'-bis(0-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'- bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis-(0-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-
aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'- bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'- amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6- dioxaoctane, or their addition salts thereof.
[0104] The para- aminophenols, according to the present invention, may be selected from, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3- fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4- amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P- hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, or the addition salts thereof with an acid. In an example, the addition salt is salt of sulphurous acid or sodium metabisulphite salt.
[0105] The ortho-aminophenols, according to the present invention, that may be used are selected from, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5- methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, or the addition salts thereof.
[0106] The heterocyclic bases, according to the present invention, that may be used are selected from pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
[0107] In an embodiment, pyridine derivatives may be selected from the compounds as described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and/or GB 1 153 196, including 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3- aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, or the addition salts thereof.
[0108] Preferably, the pyridine derivatives, according to embodiments herein, may further be selected from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases, or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples of such bases include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-
a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2- methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7- yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2- yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5- a]pyridine, pyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridine-3 ,7 -diamine, 7 -morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[ 1 ,5- a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4- ylpyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 2 - [(3 -aminopyrazolo [ 1 , 5 - a] pyrid- 5 -y 1) (2- hydroxy ethyl)amino] ethanol, 2- [(3 -aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-7 -yl)(2- hydroxy ethyl)amino] ethanol, 3 -aminopyrazolo [1,5 -a]pyridin-5 -ol, 3 - aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol and 3- aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridin-7 -ol, 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2- yl)oxyethanol, or the addition salts thereof.
[0109] In an embodiment, the pyrimidine derivatives may be selected from the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, including 2, 4,5,6- tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, or their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0110] In an embodiment, the pyrazole derivatives, may be selected from, for example, the compounds described in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 or patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 or DE 195 43 988, including for example 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(P- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)- pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-phenyl- pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5- hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert- butyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-
diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3- hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1- isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5- triaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl-3 ,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3 ,5 -diamino- 1 -methyl-4- methylaminopyrazole, 3, 5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino- 1-methylpyrazole, or their addition salts. 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
[0111] Mention may be preferably made to 4,5-diaminopyrazole, and even more preferably of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, or its salts thereof.
[0112] Preferably, the pyrazole derivatives, according to embodiments herein, that may be used, also include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolo pyrazolones and especially those described in patent application FRA 2886136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino- 1,2-dimethyl-l, 2-dihydropyrazol-3- one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-di-(2- hydroxyethyl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7- dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7- dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro- lH,6H-pyridazino[ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one, 4-amino- 1 ,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2- diethyl-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2- a]pyrazol-l-one and/or, preferably, a salt thereof, or combinations thereof. Mention may be preferably made to 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2- a]pyrazol-l-one, or its salts thereof.
[0113] The heterocyclic base, according to the present invention, may be selected from 4,5-diamino-l-(|3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-
lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2- yl)oxyethanol, or their salts thereof.
[0114] Preferably, the oxidation bases, according to embodiments herein, are selected from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, paraaminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, the corresponding addition salts, or combinations thereof, preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl- para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0115] The oxidation coupler(s), according to the present invention, that may be used, is(are) selected from a group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta- aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers, and their addition salts.
[0116] Preferably, the oxidation couplers, according to embodiments herein, may be selected from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1- methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5- amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2- amino-4-(P-hy droxy ethylamino)- 1 -methoxybenzene, 1 ,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3- bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-l- dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3,4- methylenedi oxybenzene, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4- hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 5-methoxy-6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino- 3 -hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-4- hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 3,5- diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, l-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4- methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6- hy droxy indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diaminopyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6- methylpyridine, l-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 4- (3 ,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl)- 1 -(2-hy droxy ethyl)- 1 -methylpiperazin- 1 -ium chloride,
2.6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,4,6-trimethoxyaniline hydrochloride,
2.6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole and 2,6- diaminopyrazine, the addition salts thereof with an acid, or combinations thereof.
[0117] More preferably, the oxidation couplers, according to embodiments herein, may be selected from 1,3 -dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1,3 -dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1- methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5- amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2, 4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxy ethyloxy )benzene, a- naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-
4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-
5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, or combinations thereof.
[0118] Preferably, the oxidation couplers, in some embodiments, are further selected from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino- 3 -hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P- hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl- 3, 4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, their addition salts, or combinations thereof.
[0119] In general, the addition salts of the oxidation couplers, according to the present invention, are selected from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0120] In an embodiment, the oxidation couplers are selected from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino- 3 -hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P- hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl- 3, 4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene,
a-naphthol, the addition salts thereof, the salts thereof, solvates of the salts thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0121] Preferably, the oxidation couplers, according to embodiments herein, are selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, or combinations thereof.
[0122] The composition according to embodiments herein, is, in some embodiments, free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2- methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, or the addition salts thereof.
[0123] In a particular embodiment, the total amount of the oxidation base(s), is(are) in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0124] In a particular embodiment, the total amount of the oxidation coupler(s), is(are) in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] The oxidation base(s) and coupler(s) may be in suitable amounts such that the total amount of oxidative dye, according to the present invention, is in an amount ranging from 0.0002% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alkaline agent
[0126] The composition, according to the present invention, may comprise at least one alkaline agent.
[0127] Preferably, the composition, according to the present invention comprises at least one alkaline agent
[0128] In an embodiment, the alkaline agent(s) that may be used is(are) selected from at least one mineral, organic, or hybrid alkaline agent.
[0129] The mineral alkaline agents are preferably selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium
(hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, or mixtures thereof.
[0130] The organic alkaline agents, according to the present invention, are preferably selected from alkanolamines. In an embodiment, the alkanolamines are selected from monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C10 hydroxyalkyl radicals.
[0131] In an embodiment, the organic amines are selected from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines, or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C10 hydroxyalkyl radicals, which are in particular suitable for performing the present invention.
[0132] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s), according to embodiments herein, are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3- propanediol, 3-amino- 1 ,2-propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino- 1 ,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, or combinations thereof.
[0133] The alkaline agent(s), according to the embodiments herein, is(are) selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline-earth metal metasilicates, or combinations thereof.
[0134] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s), according to embodiments herein, the alkaline agents (is) are selected from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide, or combinations thereof more preferably the alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines, better is monoethanolamine.
[0135] The alkaline agent(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) is(are) selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, or their mixtures and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) selected from alkanolamines is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oxidizing agents
[0138] In an embodiment, the composition, according to the present invention, comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
[0139] According to this embodiment, the composition of the invention is a ready to use composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
[0140] The oxidizing agent(s), according to the present invention, may be selected from, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and/or precursors thereof, or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals.
[0141] In an embodiment, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
[0142] In a particular embodiment, the oxidizing agent(s) is(are) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0143] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is free of oxidizing agent. According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably mixed with a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent immediately before use.
Additives
[0144] The composition, according to the present invention, may optionally include at least one additive, that are different from the compounds of the present invention.
[0145] In an embodiment, the additives that may be used are selected from mineral thickening agents, non-ionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, oils, polyols, polymers, chelating agents, sequestrants, solvents, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, and preservatives.
[0146] In particular, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound(s) so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisioned addition(s).
[0147] The total amount of each of the additive(s), in a particular embodiment, is in an amount ranging from 0.01% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] The composition, according to the present invention, may also optionally include at least one solvent.
[0149] In an embodiment, the solvents of the composition are selected from water and/or at least one organic solvent.
[0150] The organic solvents, according to the present invention, are selected from linear or branched, and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol (2- methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-l,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance
propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C1-C4 alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a combination.
[0151] The organic solvent(s), according to the present invention, when present, is( are) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably 0.4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] In an embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is preferably aqueous. The total amount of water in the composition, according to embodiments herein, is in a weight range of 30% to 99%, preferably in a weight range of 40% to 95% by weight, and more preferably 45% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Kit
[0153] Embodiments provided herein also include a kit comprising a composition (A) as described in the embodiments herein above comprising at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof, at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. The compositions (A) and (B) are intended to be mixed together at the time of use to obtain a ready to use composition which is then applied to keratin fibres for dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres. Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9.0 and 10.5.
[0154] The compositions (A) and (B) may be present in separate sachets or containers or in a single dual compartment sachet, optionally accompanied with suitable one or more applicators which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges. The kit mentioned above may also be equipped with a means for dispensing the desired mixture onto the hair, for instance the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
Method
[0155] The composition of the present invention may be manufactured using known methods that are generally used in the cosmetics or dermatological field. Typically, the method for preparation of the composition comprises blending the at least one fatty alcohol; the at least one cationic polysaccharide; the at least one fatty acid; the at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), and the at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent, with a suitable solvent, and optionally one or more additives to obtain the composition.
[0156] Embodiments herein further include a method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair. The method comprises applying the composition, according to the present invention, on said fibres.
[0157] Embodiments herein also include methods for manufacturing the composition (A) and composition (B) of the kit provided herein. In an embodiment, the method of preparation of the composition (A) is according to the method described herein above comprising blending the at least one fatty alcohol; the at least one cationic polysaccharide; the at least one fatty acid; the at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), and the at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent, with a suitable solvent, and optionally one or more additives to obtain the composition (A). The method of preparation of the composition (B) comprises blending oxidizing agent with a suitable solvent and optionally, comprising the additive to obtain the composition (B).
[0158] In an embodiment, the composition may be allowed to stand for a pause time in a range of 5 to 45 minutes to dye said keratin fibres. In some embodiments, the composition is allowed to stand for a pause time in a range of 5 to 15 minutes.
[0159] In an embodiment, the composition according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing composition comprising preferably hydrogen peroxide immediately before use.
[0160] The temperature during the method is conventionally between room temperature (from 15°C to 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
Use
[0161] Embodiments herein include use of the composition of the present invention.
[0162] The composition, according to embodiments herein, may be used for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, particularly hair. The composition may be used for the purpose of colour change, colour lightening/bleaching of hair, and/or coverage of greying hair.
[0163] The composition may be used on natural hair and/or artificial hair, including hair extensions.
[0164] The composition may be used at different temperatures, including conventionally at room temperature (between 15°C to 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60 °C.
[0165] Although the subject matter has been described in considerable detail with reference to certain examples and implementations thereof, it is understood that other implementations are possible and included within the scope of the present invention.
Examples
[0166] The disclosure will now be illustrated with working examples, which is intended to illustrate the working of disclosure and not intended to take restrictively to imply any limitations on the scope of the present disclosure. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood to one of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure belongs. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice of the disclosed methods and compositions, the exemplary methods, devices, and materials are described herein.
It is to be understood that this disclosure is not limited to particular methods, and experimental conditions described, as such methods and conditions may apply.
Example 1
Composition for dyeing keratin fibers
[0167] Composition A (according to the invention) was prepared using 6 wt% vegetable oil (i.e) sunflower oil; polyol viz. 5 wt% of propylene glycol; cationic polysaccharide viz. 0.5 wt% guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; 0.05 wt% of cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; carboxylic acid viz. 0.2 wt% of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; surfactants viz. 1.50 wt% of laureth-12, 3 wt% of laureth-4, 1.50 wt% of oleth-20 and 2.40 wt%, of polysorbate 21; fatty alcohol viz. 17 wt% of cetearyl alcohol; alkaline agent viz. 7.83 wt% of ethanolamine; fatty acids viz. 0.32 wt% of stearic acid, 0.02 wt% of myristic acid and 0.26 wt% of palmitic acid; 0.25 wt% of ascorbic acid; 0.75% sodium metabisulfite; and water (up to 100 wt%).
[0168] The vegetable oil (sunflower seed oil) used in the composition, according to embodiments herein, was commercially procured from Europe ADM Speciality Oil and Fats (Societe Industrielle des Oleagineux).
[0169] Comparative composition Al was prepared similarly as composition A, except in composition Al 0.2% by weight of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) was substituted with 0.2% ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Composition A is therefore a more environmentally benign composition than composition Al.
[0170] The ingredients used to prepare compositions A and Al are provided in Table 1 below, expressed in % by weight.
[0171] The oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in Table 2 below, expressed in % by weight: Table 2
Example 2:
Consumer evaluation of working qualities
[0172] Protocol: The working qualities, including ease of mixing and application, consistency, ease of emulsifying, and ease of rinsing, were tested on consumer participants/volunteers. 4 participants with mid-length to long hair, with average to high quantity and with 0% to 20% grey hair were selected. Prior to the application of the compositions, a full head shampoo of the participants’ hair was done, and the hair was blast dried thereafter.
[0173] Each of the composition A, and the comparative composition Al were mixed independently with the oxidizing composition B in a weight ratio of 1: 1 to obtain mixtures 1 and 2, respectively.
[0174] Each of the mixtures 1 (Composition A+B) and 2 (Composition Al+B) were applied on the participants’ hair, left for a pause time of 35 minutes, and was then rinsed with water to remove the mixtures.
[0175] The rinsed hair was then blow-dried and evaluated for the above working qualities. The consumers assessed the time taken for mixing the compositions, how quickly the compositions emulsified, the number of strokes of a brush and time taken to uniformly apply the composition on hair, the amount of time taken to rinse out the mixtures, and the feel/texture of the hair after rinsing.
[0176] Results: Mixture 1 comprising composition A had a creamy texture with white colour, with a medium thin consistency. With regard to its working qualities, mixture 1 was found by the participants to be very easy to mix (rated 4 on a scale of 5 with 1 indicating very difficult mixing and 5 indicating very very easy mixing) as it did not require many strokes for mixing, and to apply to hair with uniform application. It was also rated as very easy to emulsify (rated 4 on a scale of 5 with 1 indicating very difficult emulsification and 5 indicating very very easy emulsification) and easy to rinse out of hair. In terms of performance, mixture 1 also resulted in more lustre, sheen, and conditioning effect on hair, and demonstrated good lightening.
[0177] Mixture 2 comprising composition Al had a creamy texture with white colour, with a medium thick consistency. With regard to its working qualities, mixture 2 was found by the participants to be easy to mix (rated 3 on a scale of 5 with 1 indicating very difficult mixing and 5 indicating very very easy mixing) as it required more strokes to mix and was rated as easy to apply to hair with uniform application. It was also rated as easy to emulsify (rated 3 on a scale of 1 indicating very difficult emulsification and 5 indicating very very easy emulsification) and easy to rinse out of hair. In terms of performance, mixture 2 had lower lustre and sheen, and also had lower lightening effect
[0178] Overall, mixture 1 was preferred by consumers over mixture 2 for its working qualities and performance, indicating that the ingredients of the composition A, function synergistically to provide desired effects.
[0179] Mixture 1 was found to be very easy to mix and also emulsified very easily. The consistency of mixture 1 was also preferred as it had a thicker and creamier consistency which was easy to apply, while the consistency of mixture 2 was thinner and not as preferable. Mixture 1 was also found to give a more soft and supple feel to hair with lustre and better lightening effect, among others.
ADVANTAGES OF THE PRESENT DISCLOSURE
[0180] The composition of the present disclosure demonstrates good working qualities. It is easy to mix, emulsify and apply to hair in a uniform manner
and therefore, is less time-consuming to apply while providing good performance in terms of lightening and conditioning of hair.
[0181] It is also an eco-friendly composition as it reduces the use of ingredients that have detrimental effects on the environment and replaces them with environmentally friendly alternatives.
Claims
1. A composition comprising: at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
RI-N-(CH(R2)COOH) 2
(I) wherein,
Ri is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH;
R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and
R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from at least one solid fatty alcohol, or at least one liquid fatty alcohol, preferably from at least one solid fatty alcohol comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and more preferably comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
3. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, and preferably is cetearyl alcohol.
4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and better from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof, preferably from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid is selected from fatty acids comprising Cf> to C40 atoms, preferably selected from C10-C30 fatty acids, more preferably selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof, and better from myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof.
8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and still better from 0.5% to 3% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is selected from:
- compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when Ri represents a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a -CH(C00H)-CH2-C00H group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;
- compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a - CH(CH2)-C00H group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;
- compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a - CH2CH2OH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; or combinations thereof.
10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N- lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof, preferably from N,N- dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof, more preferably, from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L- aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, solvates
thereof, or combinations thereof, and even more preferably from N,N- dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA) and/or tetrasodium N,N- bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate.
11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oxidative dye comprises at least one oxidation base and/or at least one oxidation coupler; the oxidation base is selected from a group consisting of para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts; and the oxidation coupler is selected from a group consisting of metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenol, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers, and their addition salts, the amount of each of which is preferably ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline-earth metal metasilicates, or combinations thereof, preferably selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide or combinations thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines, and better is monoethanolamine.
14. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkaline agent is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
16. The composition as claimed in claim 15, wherein the oxidizing agent is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
17. A method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising applying the composition as claimed in claims 1 to 16 on said keratin fibres.
18. Use of the composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims 1 to 16, for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, such as hair.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| IN202321065316 | 2023-09-28 | ||
| IN202321065316 | 2023-09-28 | ||
| FRFR2312306 | 2023-11-10 | ||
| FR2312306A FR3155137B3 (en) | 2023-11-10 | 2023-11-10 | COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR DYEING AND/OR LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBERS |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2025069043A1 true WO2025069043A1 (en) | 2025-04-03 |
Family
ID=92108624
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IN2024/051262 Pending WO2025069043A1 (en) | 2023-09-28 | 2024-07-16 | Sustainable compositions and methods for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| WO (1) | WO2025069043A1 (en) |
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