WO2025051742A1

WO2025051742A1 - Composition comprising polyols, monoalcohols, fatty amines, particular fatty alcohols, and particular carboxylic acids; and cosmetic treatment process

Info

Publication number: WO2025051742A1
Application number: PCT/EP2024/074602
Authority: WO
Inventors: Patrick Minou; Manon Chaumontet; Laura GARNOTEL
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-09-04
Filing date: 2024-09-03
Publication date: 2025-03-13
Anticipated expiration: 2026-03-04
Also published as: FR3152379A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising polyols, monoalcohols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, fatty amines, a mixture of particular fatty alcohols, and particular carboxylic acids comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of such a composition.

Description

Composition comprising polyols, monoalcohols, fatty amines, particular fatty alcohols, and particular carboxylic acids; and cosmetic treatment process

The invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising one or more polyols and one or more monoalcohols, and also one or more fatty amines, and one or more particular fatty alcohols and one or more particular carboxylic acids; the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using said cosmetic composition.

Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing, or even repeated washing.

Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, notably in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to haircare treatments that use compositions intended to condition the hair by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties. These hair care compositions, which are intended to be applied regularly to the hair, can be, for example, conditioners, masks or sera, and can be provided in the form of gels, hair lotions and care creams which are more or less thick.

The existing products on the market may have a thick texture and thus be difficult to withdraw, apply and spread over the entire head of hair.

In addition, users are increasingly in search of products mainly comprising ingredients of natural origin.

The aim of the present invention is to provide cosmetic compositions, notably hair compositions, advantageously in liquid form enabling the formation of a lamellar phase in contact with water, these compositions finding an advantageous application in the field of hair care and/or conditioning; notably rinse-out care products preferentially for fine hair and/or sensitized hair. In particular, the liquid texture is converted to a creamy texture upon application to wet hair.

In order to meet users’ needs, a composition is proposed according to the present invention which provides very good cosmetic performance properties, with an improvement in disentangling, in smooth feel, provision of softness, suppleness, sheen and manageability, along with lightness. Equally, the present invention makes it possible to provide improved usage properties, notably a texture which facilitates the application thereof, a uniform distribution and improved, notably faster, rinsing.

The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges. It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of raw materials of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. Moreover, in order to preserve natural resources and notably water, it is advantageous to provide compositions that make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed notably during use of the product and/or during the formulation thereof.

One subject of the invention is thus a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:

(i) one or more polyols;

(ii) one or more monoalcohols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

(iii) one or more fatty amines;

(iv) one or more fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms;

(v) one or more fatty alcohols comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms, in a total content of less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

(vi) one or more carboxylic acids comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms and corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which:

- n = 0;

- A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH₂) groups.

Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated:

The limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between ... and ...”, “ranging from ... to ...” and “comprising from ... to ...”.

The term “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the term “one or more”.

The term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair.

1/ Polyols i)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.

A “polyol” is understood to mean a polyhydric alcohol, i.e. a hydrocarbon chain comprising two or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups. The polyol may have a linear or branched, aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic molecular structure; it may be saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, said polyol(s) are linear and saturated; they may comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl (-OH) groups, notably from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3 and preferentially 2 hydroxyl (-OH) groups.

They may comprise from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and notably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

They do not comprise any oxyalkylene or glycerol-based groups.

They are advantageously liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

Preferably, the polyols according to the invention comprise two -OH groups (diols) and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and are linear and saturated.

Preferentially, they may be chosen from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), propane-1,3-diol, butylene glycol (butane-1,3-diol), butane-2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane-1,2-diol), and mixtures thereof. Very preferentially, the polyol is propylene glycol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said polyol(s) in a total amount ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, better still from 50% to 85% by weight, or even from 60% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 65% to 75% by weight and even better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more saturated linear C₂-C₆ diols in a total amount ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, better still from 50% to 85% by weight, or even from 60% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 65% to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises propylene glycol in a total amount ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, better still from 50% to 85% by weight, or even from 60% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 65% to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2/ Monoalcohols ii)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

A “monoalcohol” is understood to mean a molecule that comprises only a single hydroxyl (-OH) group, generally of formula R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon chain.

The OH radical may be in the primary, secondary or tertiary position.

Preferably, said monoalcohol(s) are linear and saturated. They may comprise from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. They do not comprise any oxyalkylene or glycerol-based groups.

Preferably, the monoalcohol is chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and butanol, and mixtures thereof, preferentially ethanol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said C₁-C₆ monoalcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 10% to 40% by weight or even from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferentially comprises ethanol in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 10% to 40% by weight, or even from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of polyols (i) to the total amount of C₁-C₆ monoalcohols (ii) is advantageously greater than or equal to 1, better still between 1 and 20, even better still between 2 and 10, or even between 3 and 6.

Preferably, the total amount of polyol(s) (i) and of C₁-C₆ monoalcohols (ii) (i.e. (i) + (ii)) ranges from 70% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 75% to 95% by weight and better still from 80% to 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3/ Fatty amines iii)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines.

The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C₆-C₃₀ hydrocarbon chain.

Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

The fatty amines that can be used in the context of the invention may be fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines or a mixture of these compounds.

Fatty amidoamines that may be mentioned include fatty amidoamines in which the C₆-C₃₀ fatty chain may be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising at least one C₆-C₃₀ hydrocarbon chain.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition (which does not exclude the fact that they may quaternize in situ).

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the amidoamines that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula A: RCONHR’’N(R’)₂ (A)

in which:

- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₅-C₂₉ and preferably C₇-C₂₃ alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups; preferably a linear or branched C₅-C₂₉ and better still C₇-C₂₃ alkyl radical, or a C₅-C₂₉ and better still C₇-C₂₃ alkenyl radical; preferentially a linear or branched C₇-C₂₃ radical, which is saturated or comprises a double unsaturation (C=C);

- R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, which is preferably linear, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and

- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl or ethyl radical.

Preferably, in formula (A):

- R’ are identical and represent a methyl group;

- R’’ represents a linear divalent hydrocarbon radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; better still 3 carbon atoms; and

- R represents a linear or branched C₇-C₂₃ hydrocarbon radical, which is saturated or comprises an unsaturation (C=C).

The amidoamines of formula (A) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds:

- oleamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- stearamidoethyl dimethylamine,

- lauramidopropyl dimethylamine,

- myristamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- behenamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- soyamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- cocamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- minkamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- oatamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- sesamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- tallamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- olivamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- stearamidoethyl diethylamine,

- brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Tertiary fatty amines that may be mentioned include in particular the tertiary fatty amines of formula (B): RN(R’)₂

in which:

- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₈-C₂₄ alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C₆-C₃₀ and better still C₈-C₂₄ alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₈-C₂₄ alkenyl radical; and

- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl radical.

As fatty amines corresponding to formula B, mention may be made of the following compounds: dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines chosen from fatty amidoamines, notably corresponding to formula (A) as defined above, and more particularly chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the fatty amine(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Notably, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty amidoamine(s), notably of formula (A) as defined above, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty amidoamine(s) chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4/ Fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms iv)

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohols.

The term “C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohol” means an aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

These fatty alcohols are different from the polyols described above. Preferably, these fatty alcohols are monoalcohols.

Preferably, the C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally cyclic hydrocarbon group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising in total from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferentially, the C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms.

Even better still, the C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon group not substituted with one or more additional OH groups, comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms.

The C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohols of the invention are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

Preferably, they are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

Nonlimiting examples of C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohols include octan-1-ol, octan-2-ol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, nonan-1-ol, decan-1-ol, undecanol, lauryl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohol is myristyl alcohol.

Preferably, the C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohol(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 1% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Notably, the cosmetic composition may comprise the C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 9% by weight, even better still from 1% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohols having the structure R-OH, with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon group, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 9% by weight, even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, and even more preferentially from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even better still, the cosmetic composition comprises myristyl alcohol in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 9% by weight, even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, and even more preferentially from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5/ Fatty alcohols comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms v)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms (also referred to in the remainder of the description as: fatty alcohols comprising more than 14 carbon atoms precisely).

A “fatty alcohol comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms” is understood to mean an aliphatic alcohol comprising at least 15 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

Preferably, they comprise between 15 and 22 carbon atoms, preferentially between 16 and 20 carbon atoms, or even between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

These fatty alcohols may be linear or branched, preferably linear; they may be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.

Preferably, the fatty alcohols comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms have the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally cyclic hydrocarbon group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising in total from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferentially, the fatty alcohols comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon group not substituted with one or more additional OH groups, comprising in total from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohols comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms of the invention are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols comprising more than 14 carbon atoms precisely, include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, docosanol, policosanol, myricyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol(s) comprising more than 14 carbon atoms precisely are chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol(s) comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms are present in the composition in a total amount of less than or equal to 5% by weight, better still less than or equal to 4.8% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 4.5% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 4% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Notably, the cosmetic composition may comprise the fatty alcohol(s) comprising more than 14 carbon atoms in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 4.8% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 4.0% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the cosmetic composition may comprise the C₁₆-C₂₀ fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 4.8% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 4.0% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 4.8% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 4.0% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6/ C1-C6 carboxylic acids vi)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more particular carboxylic acids comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

They correspond to formula (I) below:

in which:

- n = 0;

- A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n = 0) or multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is other than 0), comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH₂) groups.

Mention may be made in particular of the carboxylic acids of formula (I) in which:

- n = 0 and A is a monovalent (C₁-C₅)alkyl group, notably (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, better still (C₂-C₄)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH₂) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH.

Preferentially, the carboxylic acids may be chosen from:

- lactic acid (n = 0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH₃);

- glycolic acid (n = 0 and monovalent A = -CH₂(OH)); and

- levulinic acid (n = 0 and monovalent A = -CH₂CH₂C(O)CH₃).

More preferentially, the carboxylic acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof. Even better still, the carboxylic acid is lactic acid.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the C₁-C₆ carboxylic acid(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight and preferentially from 0.25% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises lactic acid, glycolic acid and/or levulinic acid in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight and preferentially from 0.25% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even better still, the composition according to the invention comprises lactic acid in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight and preferentially from 0.25% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7/ Other ingredients

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.

The term “anhydrous” means that the composition comprises at most 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at most 3% by weight of water, better still at most 2% by weight of water, even better still at most 1% water, and is preferentially free of water (0%).

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition may be an aqueous composition, for example obtained by dilution of the preceding anhydrous composition. When it comprises water, the composition according to the invention may have a water content ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably ranging from 60% to 90% by weight and better still ranging from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients chosen in particular from thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-straightening agents; nacreous agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; silanes. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, may comprise:

(i) one or more linear and saturated polyols comprising 2 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably propylene glycol;

preferably in a total amount ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, better still from 50% to 85% by weight, or even from 60% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 65% to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(ii) one or more linear and saturated monoalcohols, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferentially ethanol;

preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 10% to 40% by weight, or even from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(iii) one or more fatty amidoamines; preferably chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof;

preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(iv) one or more C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohols having the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms; preferably myristyl alcohol;

preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 9% by weight, even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, and preferentially from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(v) one or more fatty alcohols comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms, having the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon group not substituted with one or more additional OH groups, comprising in total from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably chosen from stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof;

preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 4.8% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 4.0% by weight, and preferentially from 1% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(vi) one or more carboxylic acids comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which n = 0 and A is a monovalent (C₁-C₅)alkyl group, notably (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, better still (C₂-C₄)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH₂) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH,, preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof;

preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, and preferentially from 0.25% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise (0%) any cationic surfactant bearing a quaternary ammonium group, such as dimethyldialkylammonium or trimethylalkylammonium compounds, having alkyl chain lengths of from C₈ to C₂₂, for example, and their salts, notably halogen salts, chloride or bromide in particular. In particular it does not comprise (%) behentrimonium chloride and/or cetrimonium chloride (behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride) surfactants.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres, that have optionally been washed with shampoo beforehand.

Advantageously, the composition is left on the keratin fibres for a leave-on time ranging from 1 minute to 20 minutes.

The keratin fibres are preferably rinsed after application of said cosmetic composition, for example with water.

The process according to the invention is in particular a hair treatment process, which makes it possible, for example, to provide care and/or conditioning to keratin fibres, in particular to the hair, notably disentangling, visual smoothness and smooth feel, suppleness, sheen, softness, individualization, a natural feel and lightness.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature.

In the examples that follow, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are indicated as weight percentages of active material (% AM) relative to the total weight of the final composition.

Example 1

Composition A (according to the invention) and compositions B and B’ (comparative) are prepared from the ingredients, the contents of which are shown in the table below (in % AM per 100 g of composition):

	A Invention	B Comparative	B’ Comparative
Stearamidopropyldimethylamine	2	2	2
Myristyl alcohol	6	3	1
Cetearyl alcohol (50/50)	2	5	7
Cetyl alcohol	1.5	1.5	1.5
Lactic acid	0.5	0.5	0.5
Propylene glycol	71.1	71.1	71.1
Ethanol	qs 100	qs 100	qs 100
Content of C₁₅ and C₁₅+ fatty alcohols	3.5	6.5	8.5
Total content of fatty alcohols	9.5	9.5	9.5

Liquid cosmetic compositions are thus obtained, which can be used as rinse-off conditioner.

Composition A according to the invention is transparent and stable over time; compositions B and B’ are opalescent and become destabilized in less than 24 h.

Compositions A, B and B’ were applied according to the application protocol described below and were evaluated in terms of coating on application, and smooth feel on dry hair.

Application protocol

5.4 g locks of hair SA20 are washed with a DOP shampoo and then rinsed. Compositions A, B or B’ are applied in an identical manner to said wet locks, by massaging the locks of hair with the fingers (5 times), in a proportion of 2.5 g of composition per 5.4 g of lock. The coating on application is then evaluated.

Next, the hair is rinsed under water by passing between the fingers (21 times), and then squeezed out between the fingers (5 times). The locks are then dried with a hair dryer (60°C for 5 minutes) and then disentangled in order to be evaluated.

Coating on application

The evaluation, performed by 6 experts, is both tactile and visual:

(1) During the tactile evaluation, the expert takes the lock between thumb and index finger and slides their fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends. They evaluate whether the hair is coated with a uniform feel.

(2) The expert visually evaluates the creamy aspect remaining on the surface of the composition, all along the lock from the upper part to the ends.

The following results are obtained:

(1) Tactile evaluation: upon application, composition A (according to the invention) is transformed more rapidly on the hair and generates a coating that is more present compared to compositions B and B’, this being during the five massaging steps, enabling a good distribution on wet hair.

(2) Visual evaluation: composition A applied to the wet fibre has a creamier appearance that is more persistent on the surface, at least until rinsing, and also a more homogeneous distribution all along the lock compared to compositions B and B’.

Smooth feel:

The test consists in carrying out a tactile evaluation of the locks (dry hair). The expert takes the lock between the thumb and index finger and slides their fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends. They evaluate whether the hair has any rough patches or whether the fingers catch on the hair.

The overall performance in terms of smooth feel on dry hair is evaluated blind, after disentangling the locks, by 6 experts using a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good): 0 = very poor, 0.5 = very poor/poor, 1 = poor, 1.5 = poor/fairly poor, 2 = fairly poor, 2.5 = average, 3 = fairly good, 3.5 = fairly good/good, 4 = good, 4.5 = good/very good, 5 = very good.

Moreover, the experts’ scores are classified in order to give them a “rank”. Rank 1 is assigned to the best performing lock, rank 2 to the worst performing lock.

The results are summarized in the tables below.

	A (invention)	B (comparative)		Rank A	Rank B
Expert 1	3	2.5		1	2
Expert 2	4	3		1	2
Expert 3	3	2.5		1	2
Expert 4	3	2.5		1	2
Expert 5	4	3		1	2
Expert 6	3.5	3		1	2
Mean	3.42	2.75	∑ranks	6	12

	A (invention)	B’ (comparative)		Rank A	Rank B’
Expert 1	3	2		1	2
Expert 2	4	3.5		1	2
Expert 3	3	2		1	2
Expert 4	3	2		1	2
Expert 5	4	3.5		1	2
Expert 6	3.5	3		1	2
Mean	3.42	2.67	∑ranks	6	12

It is observed that in 100% of cases, composition A was judged to be better than compositions B and B’ in terms of smooth feel.

The average value of the scores obtained shows an improvement in the smooth feel when composition A (according to the invention) is applied, compared to compositions B and B’.

According to Kramer tables, composition A is significantly better performing in terms of smooth feel than compositions B and B’ (Kramer A, Food Technology, December 1963, p.124-125, values for 2 locks to be evaluated by 6 experts).

Example 2

Composition A1 according to the invention and comparative composition B1 are prepared from the ingredients the contents of which are indicated in the table below (in % AM per 100 g of composition):

	A1 Invention	B1 Comparative
Stearamidopropyldimethylamine	2	2
Myristyl alcohol	3	3
Cetearyl alcohol (50/50)	0.5	0.5
Cetyl alcohol	1.5	1.5
Lactic acid	0.5 a.m.	-
Citric acid	-	0.5 a.m.
Ethanol	20	20
Propylene glycol	q.s. for 100	q.s. for 100

Application protocol

- After a standard shampoo wash, compositions A1 and B1 are applied to locks of medium-sensitized (alkaline solubility = 20%, AS 20) hair weighing 5.4 g, in a standardized manner by massaging the locks (massaging 6 times), in a proportion of 2.5 g of care composition per 5.4 g of lock.

- The hair is rinsed (21 passes between the fingers), and then squeezed out (5 passes between the fingers).

- The locks are then dried with a hair dryer and then disentangled in order to be evaluated.

Transformation performance

The evaluation of the transformation is visual and tactile. The expert evaluates the capacity of the composition (liquid texture) to transform into a creamy texture upon application to wet hair. The performance in terms of transformation was evaluated on wet hair, by 6 experts on a scale ranging from 0 (poor) to 5 (very good).

The results obtained are given below:

	TRANSFORMATION
	B1 comparative	A1 invention
Expert 1	2	5
Expert 2	2	5
Expert 3	2	5
Expert 4	2	5
Expert 5	2	5
Expert 6	2	5
Average	2	5
Standard deviations	0	0

Composition A1 according to the invention has a superior capacity for transformation into a creamy texture compared to comparative composition B1.

Suppleness, smoothness and coating on wet hair

The performance qualities in terms of suppleness, smoothness and coating were evaluated on wet hair, by 6 experts on a scale ranging from 0 (poor) to 5 (very good).

The evaluation of suppleness is tactile. The expert takes the hair in both hands and attempts to fold it. They evaluate the capacity of the hair to bend easily, its malleability.

To evaluate the smoothness, the expert takes the lock of hair between their thumb and index finger and slides their fingers along the lock from the upper part to the tips. They evaluate the uniformity, the homogeneity of the hair from the root to the tip, the presence of rough patches, and whether the fingers catch on the hair.

The evaluation of the coating is tactile and visual:

(1) During the tactile evaluation, the expert takes the lock between their thumb and index finger and slides their fingers along the lock from the upper part to the tips. They evaluate whether the hair is coated with a uniform feel.

(2) The expert visually evaluates the creamy aspect remaining on the surface of the composition, all along the lock from the upper part to the tips.

The results obtained are given below:

	SUPPLENESS		SMOOTHNESS		COATING
	B1 comp	A1 inv	B1 comp	A1 inv	B1 comp	A1 inv
Expert 1	1	4	3	4	2	2
Expert 2	3	3	2.5	3.5	1	3
Expert 3	1	4	3	4	2	3
Expert 4	2	4	3	3.5	1.5	3.0
Expert 5	2	4	3.5	4	1	2.0
Expert 6	3	3	2.5	4	1.5	3
Average	2	3.66	2.9	3.8	1.38	2.8
Standard deviations	0.9	0.52	0.4	0.3	0.48	0.52

Composition A1 according to the invention results in superior performance qualities of suppleness, smoothness and coating compared to comparative composition B1 on wet hair.

These results are significant in view of the standard deviations.

Claims

Composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:
- one or more polyols;
- one or more monoalcohols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- one or more fatty amines;
- one or more fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms;
- one or more fatty alcohols comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms, in a total content of less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
- one or more carboxylic acids comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms and corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which:
- n = 0;
- A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH₂) groups.
Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the polyol(s) are linear and saturated, comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, notably from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3, preferentially 2 hydroxyl groups; better still comprise 2 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms and are linear and saturated; even better still are chosen from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), propane-1,3-diol, butylene glycol (butane-1,3-diol), butane-2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane-1,2-diol), and mixtures thereof; preferentially, the polyol is propylene glycol.
Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the polyol(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, better still from 50% to 85% by weight, or from 60% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 65% to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the monoalcohol(s) comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms are of formula R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon chain; preferably are chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof; preferentially ethanol.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the C₁-C₆ monoalcohols are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 10% to 40% by weight, or even from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of the total amount of polyols (i) to the total amount of C₁-C₆ monoalcohols (ii) is greater than or equal to 1, better still between 1 and 20, even better still between 2 and 10, or even between 3 and 6.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty amine(s) are chosen from fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines or a mixture of these compounds; and in particular from
(i) the amidoamines of formula (A): RCONHR’’N(R’)₂ (A)
in which:
- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₅-C₂₉ and preferably C₇-C₂₃ alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups; preferably a linear or branched C₅-C₂₉ and better still C₇-C₂₃ alkyl radical, or a C₅-C₂₉ and better still C₇-C₂₃ alkenyl radical; preferentially a linear or branched C₇-C₂₃ radical, which is saturated or comprises a double unsaturation (C=C);
- R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, which is preferably linear, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and
- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl or ethyl radical;
better still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof;
(ii) tertiary fatty amines of formula (B): RN(R’)₂ in which:
- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₈-C₂₄ alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C₆-C₃₀ and better still C₈-C₂₄ alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₈-C₂₄ alkenyl radical; and
- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl radical;
better still from dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty amine(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohol(s) have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising in total from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms; preferably chosen from octan-1-ol, octan-2-ol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, nonan-1-ol, decan-1-ol, undecanol, lauryl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, and mixtures thereof; preferentially myristyl alcohol.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the C₈-C₁₄ fatty alcohol(s) are present in a total amount of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 1% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty alcohol(s) comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, hydrocarbon group which is not substituted with one or more additional OH groups, comprising in total from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, docosanol, policosanol, myricyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol; better still chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty alcohol(s) comprising strictly more than 14 carbon atoms are present in a total amount of less than or equal to 5% by weight, better still less than or equal to 4.8% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 4.5% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 4% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the carboxylic acid(s) comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms correspond to the formula (I):
in which:
- n = 0 and A is a monovalent (C₁-C₅)alkyl group, notably (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, better still (C₂-C₄)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH₂) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH,
better still are chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof; even better still the carboxylic acid is lactic acid.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the C₁-C₆ carboxylic acid(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight and preferentially from 0.25% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at most 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at most 3% by weight of water, better still at most 2% by weight of water, even better still at most 1% by weight of water, and preferentially being free of water (0%).
Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 14, comprising water in a content ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably ranging from 60% to 90% by weight, better still ranging from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 16.