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WO2024226077A1 - Sérum de liaison fermenté - Google Patents

Sérum de liaison fermenté Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024226077A1
WO2024226077A1 PCT/US2023/029133 US2023029133W WO2024226077A1 WO 2024226077 A1 WO2024226077 A1 WO 2024226077A1 US 2023029133 W US2023029133 W US 2023029133W WO 2024226077 A1 WO2024226077 A1 WO 2024226077A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
keratin
fermentation broth
hair
less
fermentation
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Pending
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PCT/US2023/029133
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English (en)
Inventor
Daniel Winn
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Actera Ingredients Inc
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Actera Ingredients Inc
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Publication date
Application filed by Actera Ingredients Inc filed Critical Actera Ingredients Inc
Priority to PCT/US2024/026629 priority Critical patent/WO2024227065A1/fr
Priority to CN202480028618.0A priority patent/CN121057573A/zh
Priority to AU2024261375A priority patent/AU2024261375A1/en
Publication of WO2024226077A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024226077A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
    • C12N—MICROORGANISMS OR ENZYMES; COMPOSITIONS THEREOF; PROPAGATING, PRESERVING, OR MAINTAINING MICROORGANISMS; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING; CULTURE MEDIA
    • C12N1/00—Microorganisms, e.g. protozoa; Compositions thereof; Processes of propagating, maintaining or preserving microorganisms or compositions thereof; Processes of preparing or isolating a composition containing a microorganism; Culture media therefor
    • C12N1/20—Bacteria; Culture media therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
    • C12R—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES C12C - C12Q, RELATING TO MICROORGANISMS
    • C12R2001/00—Microorganisms ; Processes using microorganisms
    • C12R2001/01—Bacteria or Actinomycetales ; using bacteria or Actinomycetales
    • C12R2001/225—Lactobacillus
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
    • C12R—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES C12C - C12Q, RELATING TO MICROORGANISMS
    • C12R2001/00—Microorganisms ; Processes using microorganisms
    • C12R2001/01—Bacteria or Actinomycetales ; using bacteria or Actinomycetales
    • C12R2001/225—Lactobacillus
    • C12R2001/23—Lactobacillus acidophilus

Definitions

  • the present disclosure is generally directed to a keratin fermentation broth for use in cosmetic compositions, particularly hair treatment compositions such as shampoos and conditioners.
  • Hair is formed from layers of keratin protein which are polymeric. Damage to hair can occur as hair ages, especially from environmental factors such as UV light, ozone, and moisture. Damage can also occur through various treatments of hair, including physical (e.g. heat from straightening or curling) and chemical (e.g. coloring and hair relaxers).
  • damage can occur as hair ages, especially from environmental factors such as UV light, ozone, and moisture. Damage can also occur through various treatments of hair, including physical (e.g. heat from straightening or curling) and chemical (e.g. coloring and hair relaxers).
  • Keratin-containing cosmetic formulations such as shampoos are thought to strengthen hair by fortifying and repairing keratin structure.
  • WO 1995/017157 A2, WO 2004/047774 Al, and WO 2012/025615 A2 for examples of keratin- containing cosmetic formulations.
  • no formulations have been reported that comprise a keratin fermentation broth.
  • the present disclosure provides a keratin fermentation broth comprising a) keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin, b) a Lactobacillus species, and c) a simple sugar, or a fraction or an isolate thereof. It is further directed to a cosmetic composition comprising the keratin fermentation broth.
  • the present disclosure is also directed to a method of treating hair fibers, the method comprising contacting the hair fibers with a hair treatment composition comprising a keratin fermentation broth comprising a) keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin, b) Lactobacillus acidophilus, and c) a simple sugar, or a fraction or an isolate thereof.
  • a hair treatment composition comprising a keratin fermentation broth comprising a) keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin, b) Lactobacillus acidophilus, and c) a simple sugar, or a fraction or an isolate thereof.
  • the present disclosure is further directed to a method of producing a keratin fermentation broth, the method comprising:
  • the present disclosure is further directed a keratin fermentation product produced by exposing keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin to fermentation of a simple sugar with a Lactobacillus species.
  • the present disclosure is also directed to a product comprising keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin exposed to fermentation of a simple sugar with a Lactobacillus species.
  • Figure 1 depicts the mean contact angle for 20% SLES and Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% treatments in Example 5.
  • Figure 2 depicts the mean remaining time for 20% SLES and Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% treatments in Example 5.
  • Figure 3 depicts the mean breakage for 20% SLES and Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% treatments in Example 6.
  • Figure 4 depicts the mean values of the water vaporization enthalpy for 20% SLES and Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% treatments for integrity in Example 7.
  • Figure 5 depicts the DSC curve with enthalpy of keratin denaturation for the 20% SLES (control) treatment in Example 7.
  • Figure 6 depicts the DSC curve with enthalpy of keratin denaturation for the Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% treatment in Example 7.
  • Figure 7 depicts mean luster values for CTRP, CTRN, and Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% treatments in Example 8.
  • Figure 8A is a fluorescence microscopy image of cross-sections of relaxed MB hair soaked in 0.1% dye-only control (after purification) for 24 hours depicting natural hair fluorescence in the green channel in Example 9.
  • Figure 8B is a fluorescence microscopy image of cross-sections of relaxed MB hair soaked in 0.1% dye-only control (after purification) for 24 hours depicting no presence of dye in the red channel in Example 9.
  • Figure 9A is a fluorescence microscopy image of cross-sections of relaxed MB hair soaked in 0.1% labeled Fermented Binding Serum for 24 hours depicting natural hair fluorescence in the green channel in Example 9.
  • Figure 9B is a fluorescence microscopy image of cross-sections of relaxed MB hair soaked in 0.1% labeled Fermented Binding Serum for 24 hours in the red channel in Example 9. Visible penetration of Fermented Binding Serum into the cortex was detected.
  • Figure 10A is a fluorescence microscopy image of cross-sections of relaxed MB hair soaked in 0.1% labeled KeratecTM 1FP PE (Croda Inc.) for 24 hours depicting natural hair fluorescence in the green channel in Example 9.
  • Figure 10B is a fluorescence microscopy image of cross-sections of relaxed MB hair soaked in 0.1% labeled KeratecTM 1FP PE (Croda Inc.) for 24 hours in the red channel in Example 9. KeratecTM is concentrated in the cuticle with minimal external cortex penetration in some fibers.
  • Figure 11 depicts mean corrected total fluorescence from penetration inside of hair fibers by the fluorescence labeled peptides after 24 hours of treatment in Example 9.
  • the asterisk (*) indicates statistical significance (p ⁇ 0.05).
  • This disclosure describes a keratin fermentation broth comprising a) keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin, b) a Lactobacillus species, and c) a simple sugar, or a fraction or an isolate thereof.
  • the keratin fermentation broth can be referred to by its International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) name Lactobacillus/Honey/Keratin Ferment, mono ID 37496.
  • the keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratins can be extracted from wool. Hydrolyzed keratin is more water-soluble than unhydrolyzed keratin. Many methods of hydrolyzing keratin are known, including those disclosed in WO 2010/114938 Al by KERAPLAST TECHNOLOGIES, LTD, which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • fermentation organism is Lactobacillus acidophilus.
  • the carbohydrate source for fermentation can be any simple sugar suitable for Lactobacillus fermentation.
  • the carbohydrate source is honey.
  • Lactobacillus fermentation has been used for thousands of years to transform and preserve food products, but it has not yet been applied to animal keratins. It was surprisingly found that improved conditioning, hair treatments, hair styling, combing and other properties were achieved by fermenting wool keratins.
  • Honey contains enzymes (such as diastase, invertase, glucose oxidase, catalase, glucosylceramidase, a-amylase, a-glucosidase, P-glucosidase, and proteases) that may have unknown impact on the keratin structures and/or impact on the fermentation process, and may contribute to the resulting benefits. It was also surprisingly found that the hydrolyzed keratin fermentation broth has a reduced odor compared to unfermented hydrolyzed keratin.
  • the keratin fermentation broth comprises an aqueous fermentation broth.
  • Keratin fermentation broths are typically acidic. Lactobacillus fermentation generally acts on a carbohydrate to produce lactic acid. A basic amino acid and/or amino alcohol, accordingly, can serve to adjust the pH to a suitable level (i.e., less acidic).
  • the keratin fermentation broths described herein can have a pH of about 7 or less, about 6.5 or less, about 6 or less, about 5.5 or less, about 5 or less, about 4.5 or less, about 4 or less, or about 3 or less.
  • the keratin fermentation broths described herein can have a pH of from about 3 to about 7, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4, from about 4 to about 7, from about 4 to about 6, or from about 4 to about 5.
  • the keratin in the keratin fermentation broth has an average molecular weight of from about 1 kDa to about 10 kDa, from about 3 kDa to about 8 kDA, or from about 4 kDa to about 5 kDa. In one embodiment, the keratin has an average molecular weight of less than 10 kDa. In another embodiment, the keratin has an average molecular weight of about 4.5 kDa.
  • the present disclosure is further directed to a method of producing a keratin fermentation broth, the method comprising:
  • Lactobacillus fermentation requires no special equipment. It is a traditional process used for various foods (dairy, pickling of vegetable, fermentation of sausages and meats). It has previously been used to ferment materials used in cosmetic compositions, and many methods are known in the art (See, for example, U.S. Patent No. 9295704, US 2021/0052486 Al, KR 101045310 Bl, KR 101452770 Bl and KR 20000039570 A). The fermentation can be carried out in almost any container or vessels at any scale, and at more or less ambient conditions. Lactobacillus fermentation generally acts on a carbohydrate to produce lactic acid.
  • a Lactobacillus species, simple sugar, and keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin are combined in a vessel.
  • the Lactobacillus species is Lactobacillus acidophilus
  • the simple sugar is honey.
  • the fermentation is carried out in an aqueous solution.
  • the keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin are rendered sufficiently soluble in the aqueous fermentation solution or medium, for example, from about 2 to about 15% by weight keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin.
  • Hydrolyzed keratin is more soluble in water than keratin, so a fermentation at higher concentration is possible if the keratin is first hydrolyzed.
  • Fermentation can be carried out at a temperature of from about 2 to 53 °C and at a pH varying from about 4.5 to about 6.5. Lower pH can be employed.
  • suitable temperature and pH conditions for Lactobacilli growth are typically from about 30 to about 40°C and a pH from about 5.5 to about 6.2.
  • the broth can be fermented for up to about four days or longer, typically, for about 1 to about 12 hours.
  • the broth can then be pasteurized and packaged.
  • Pasteurization kills remaining live Lactobacillus species in the composition and is optional.
  • Pasteurization can occur via a heat shock of at least 70°C for 15 min or a sharp change in pH.
  • the disclosure is also directed to an isolate or a fraction of the resulting keratin fermentation broth.
  • the broth can be subjected to postfermentation processing, including separating the fermentation biomass (i.e., the Lactobacillus species bacteria) from the remainder of the broth forming a fraction thereof essentially free of particulates, and containing essentially only soluble organic compounds produced by the fermentation and optionally soluble residual substrate ingredients such as sugar should there be any remaining in the broth.
  • Any Lactobacillus species can be removed or separated from the remainder of the broth via filtration or another suitable method to produce a fraction thereof (e.g., the filtrate).
  • any individual component of the keratin fermentation broth can be isolated to produce an isolate thereof.
  • this can be isolated keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin following exposure to fermentation of a simple sugar with the Lactobacillus species.
  • the aqueous keratin fermentation broth can be postprocessed to remove water, for example by spray-drying, to yield a powdered organic solid (e.g., an anhydrous fermentation product or a “dried fermentation broth fraction”) that can be rehydrated into an aqueous solution prior to addition to a cosmetic formulation.
  • the keratin fermentation broth can also include an added preservative.
  • a biostatic solvent can be added to the fermentation broth, fraction or isolate thereof to prevent residual Lactobacillus species or other bacteria from growing in an aqueous composition.
  • Suitable biostatic solvents can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, pentylene glycol, and other water-soluble diols.
  • compositions comprising the keratin fermentation broth described elsewhere in the present application.
  • the compositions can be formulated in various suitable forms including, for example, low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, mousses, sprays, gels, creams, shampoos, conditioners, and the like.
  • the compositions described herein are formulated as a hair conditioner or shampoo.
  • the compositions described herein can have a pH of about 7 or less, about 6.5 or less, about 6 or less, about 5.5 or less, about 5 or less, about 4.5 or less, about 4 or less, or about 3 or less. In some embodiments, the compositions described herein can have a pH of from about 3 to about 7, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4, from about 4 to about 7, from about 4 to about 6, or from about 4 to about 5.
  • the compositions described herein can further comprise a solvent.
  • the solvent can comprise an aqueous solvent (e.g., water).
  • the total amount of keratin fermentation broth in the composition is typically at least about 0.05 wt.% and no more than about 20 wt.%.
  • the total amount of keratin fermentation broth can be about 10 wt. % or less.
  • the total concentration of keratin fermentation broth can be from about 0.05 wt.% to about 10 wt. % or from about 0.1 wt. % to about 10 wt. %.
  • the total amount of keratin fermentation broth can be about from about 0.05 wt. % to about 3 wt. % or from about 0.1 wt. % to about 3 wt. %. In some particular embodiments, the total amount of keratin fermentation broth can be about 0.05 wt%, about 0.1 wt. %, about 1 wt. %, about 2 wt. %, or about 3 wt. %.
  • compositions described herein may further comprise one or more additives (e.g., cosmetically acceptable ingredients).
  • cosmetically acceptable ingredients include, but are not limited to preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, vitamins, dyes, hair coloring agents, proteins, amino acids, natural extracts such as plant extracts, humectants, fragrances, perfumes, oils, emollients, lubricants, butters, penetrants, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, polymers, resins, hair fixatives, film formers, surfactants, detergents, emulsifiers, opacifying agents, volatiles, propellants, liquid vehicles, carriers, salts, pH adjusting agents, neutralizing agents, buffers, hair conditioning agents, anti-static agents, anti-frizz agents, anti-dandruff agents, absorbents, and combinations thereof.
  • surfactants include various anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactants.
  • Anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, those containing carboxylate, sulfonate and sulfate ions.
  • anionic surfactants include sodium, potassium, ammonium of long chain alkyl sulfonates and alkyl aryl sulfonates.
  • Cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium compounds such as benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, stearyl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, polyoxyethylene and coconut amine.
  • nonionic surfactants include ethylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol myristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-4- oleate, sorbitan acylate, sucrose acylate, PEG- 150 laurate, PEG-400 monolaurate, polyoxyethylene monolaurate, polysorbates, polyoxyethylene octylphenylether, PEG- 1000 cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene tridecyl ether, polypropylene glycol butyl ether, Poloxamer® 401, stearoyl monoisopropanolamide, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated tallow amide.
  • amphoteric surfactants include sodium N-dodecyl-0- alanine, sodium N-lauryl-0-iminodipropionate, myristoamphoacetate, lauryl betaine and lauryl sulfobetaine.
  • Emollients include, for example, silicone compounds, polyols (e.g., propanediol), and triglycerides.
  • Emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, copolymers of an unsaturated ester and styrene sulfonate monomer, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl ester, polyoxyethylene glycol ether of cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate-20, ceteareth-20, lecithin, glycol stearate, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-80, and combinations thereof.
  • Preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds, benzyl alcohol, parabens, sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and so on.
  • Antioxidants include, for example, tocopheryls, BHT, ascorbic acid, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, carotenoids, resveratrol, triethyl citrate, arbutin, kojic acid, tetrahexydecyl ascorbate, superoxide dismutase, zinc, sodium metabisulfite, lycopene, ubiquinone, and combinations thereof.
  • Conditioning agents include, for example, silicone-based agents, panthenol, hydrolyzed wheat and/or soy protein, amino acids, rice bran wax, meadowfoam seed oil, mango seed oil, grape seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sweet almond oil, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl diimonium chloride, aloe leaf extract, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, phytantriol, panthenol, retinyl palmitate, behentrimonium methosulfate, cyclopentasiloxane, quatemium-91, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.
  • Viscosity modifying agents include, for example, viscous liquids, such as polyethylene glycol, semisynthetic polymers, cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, naturally occurring polymers, bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, and salts, such as sodium chloride, and combinations thereof.
  • Opacifying agents include, but are not limited to, glycol distearate and ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
  • compositions described herein comprise at least one of a viscosity modifier (e.g., xanthan gum or equivalent), a preservative (e.g., phenoxyethanol), an emollient (e.g., propanediol), a conditioning agent (e.g., stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium methosulfate, and/or sunflower oil), or an emulsifier (e.g., cetearyl alcohol).
  • a viscosity modifier e.g., xanthan gum or equivalent
  • a preservative e.g., phenoxyethanol
  • an emollient e.g., propanediol
  • a conditioning agent e.g., stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium methosulfate, and/or sunflower oil
  • an emulsifier e.g., cetearyl alcohol
  • a further aspect of the present invention is directed to a method of treating hair fibers, the method comprising contacting the hair fibers with a hair treatment composition comprising a keratin fermentation broth comprising a) keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin, b) Lactobacillus acidophilus, and c) a simple sugar, or a fraction or an isolate thereof.
  • a hair treatment composition comprising a keratin fermentation broth comprising a) keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin, b) Lactobacillus acidophilus, and c) a simple sugar, or a fraction or an isolate thereof.
  • the hair treatment composition can be any keratin fermentation broth or cosmetic composition described herein.
  • the hair treatment composition can be formulated as a topical composition including low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, mousses, sprays, gels, creams, shampoos, conditioners, and the like.
  • the hair treatment composition can be applied directly to the hair or scalp, or can be applied as a part of a kit or sequence of hair treatments, especially before, during, or after hair coloring, hair bleaching or hair straightening.
  • Such treatments may be chemical treatments, meaning a treatment with oxidizers and/or reducing chemicals or enzymes which chemically modify the hair or the applied dye.
  • Such hair treatments may be based on application of heat or mechanical force to the hair.
  • All percentages are by weight of the toted composition unless specifically stated otherwise. When more than one composition is used during a treatment, the total weight to be considered is the total weight of all the compositions applied on hair simultaneously (i.e. the weight found “on head”) unless otherwise specified. All ratios are weight ratios unless specifically stated otherwise.
  • hair and hair fibers to be treated may be “living” (i.e., on a living body) or may be “non-living” (i.e., in a wig, hairpiece or other aggregation of non-living keratinous fibers) and in some embodiments is mammalian hair, particularly human hair.
  • wool, fiir and other keratin containing fibers are suitable substrates for the compositions according to the present invention.
  • the resulting fermented wool keratin had a distinctly mild and pleasant odor.
  • Technicians were provided 100ml jars of CoreTXpep solution and the fermented wool keratin respectively, and asked to compare the odor.
  • the CoreTXpep was described as having an animal-like odor: words such as bam, horses, and cows were used to describe its odor.
  • the fermented wool peptide was described as mild, with minor animal-like odors, and much more pleasant and tolerable. The drastic change in odor indicates a substantial chemical change in the material.
  • a shampoo formulation comprising the keratin fermentation broth prepared in Example 1 is described in Table 1.
  • This composition is made by slurrying the gum guar in glycerin and adding it to the water phase consisting of the rest of the ingredients of Phase A while stirring. This composition is allowed to hydrate for 10-15 minutes. Then, Phase B is added and stirred under low shear until combined. This is then heated to 75°C. The combined components of Phase C are then added to Phase A/B when at 75 °C and stirred thoroughly under low shear until melted and uniform. After removal from heat, Phase D is added below 40°C, and the result is mixed until uniform. Then Phase E is added and stirred until uniform. The composition is kept below 30°C, and pH is adjusted using Phase F.
  • a conditioner formulation comprising the keratin fermentation broth prepared in Example 1 is described in Table 2.
  • Phase 1 the ingredients of Phase 1 are combined, and the guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is dispersed until clump free. This is then heated to 80°C.
  • the combined ingredients of Phase B are then added to Phase A and stirred under high shear until Phase B melts. Stirring is continued while cooling, and at 40°C, Phase C ingredients are added and stirred until uniform. Then, Phase D is added and stirred until uniform.
  • the composition is kept below 30°C, and pH is adjusted using Phase E.
  • EXAMPLE 4 LEAVE-ON CONDITIONER FORMULATION [0074] A leave-on condition formulation comprising the keratin fermentation broth prepared in Example 1 is described in Table 3.
  • This composition is made by slurrying the guar gum in propanediol and adding it to the water phase consisting of the rest of the ingredients of Phase A while stirring. This composition is allowed to hydrate for 10-15 minutes. Then, Phase B is added and stirred under low shear until combined. Then, Phase C is added and stirred until uniform. Then, Phase D is added and stirred until uniform, and pH is adjusted using Phase E.
  • Hair hydrophobicity is an important property of hair that protects hair from excess moisture or humidity. A reduction of hair hydrophobicity from chemical, mechanical, or environmental damage can contribute to hair frizz, tangle, and/or breakage during humid conditions. Thus, there exists a need to restore damaged hair to its more hydrophobic condition.
  • the following example shows that hair treated with a Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% treatment had higher hydrophobicity compared to the control.
  • Control Group (CTR) non-conditioning shampoo 20% SLES (sodium laureth sulfate); [0079] 2.
  • the hair swatches Prior to the application of the treatments, the hair swatches were washed with non-conditioning shampoo to remove any residue the swatches might have. 0.4mg of 20% SLES per gram of hair swatch was applied. The hair was massaged six times from root to tip end of the hair and rinsed thoroughly with tepid water for 60 seconds.
  • Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1%: 0.2g of the cream per gram of hair was applied and spread on the wet hair. The hair swatch was massaged 6 times from the root to tip.
  • test products After applying the test products on the respective hair swatch, they were placed to dry for 24 hours in a chamber with controlled temperature and humidity (22 ⁇ 2 °C; 50 ⁇ 5% RH).
  • Table 5 presents the statistical results observed in the comparison between the “Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1%” treatment and control (CTR).
  • Control Group non-conditioning shampoo 20% SLES;
  • Treatment Group Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1%. The ingredients in the Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% are shown in Table 4.
  • control group swatches were inserted in an automatic brushing machine, BLPA 101, and the test was carried out: 8 cycles of 1000 brushings, counting the fibers at the end of each cycle.
  • Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% After that, 0.2g of the cream per gram of hair was applied and spread on the wet hair. The hair swatch was massaged 6 times from the root to the tip.
  • the hair swatches were inserted in the automatic brushing machine (BLPA 101) and the test was carried out.
  • Equation 1 calculates the breakage resistance, in percentage, compared to the control.
  • Equation 2 calculates how much resistant the hair is after the treatment application compared to the control.
  • Table 6 presents the number of broken fibers by treatment in each cycle and the statistical results.
  • Hair integrity which is a property associated with hair health, can be measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).
  • DSC differential scanning calorimetry
  • Control Group non-conditioning shampoo 20% SLES;
  • the hair swatches Prior to the application of the treatments, the hair swatches were washed with non-conditioning shampoo to remove any residue the swatches might have. 0.4mg of 20% SLES per gram of hair swatch was applied, the hair was massaged six times from root to tip end of the hair and, then, rinsed thoroughly with tepid water for 60 seconds.
  • Control 0.4 mg of 20% SLES per gram of hair was applied, the hair was massaged six times from root to the tip end of the hair and, then, rinsed thoroughly with tepid water for 60 seconds.
  • Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1%: 0.2g of the cream per gram of hair was applied and spread on the wet hair. The hair swatch was massaged 6 times from the root to the tip.
  • Hair Integrity analysis were done by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) where the enthalpy of keratin denaturation was obtained and compared between the treatments.
  • Equation 3 calculates the percentage compared to the control.
  • Equation 4 calculates the number of times the hair presents after the treatment application compared to the control. These numbers will be presented along with statistical results observed in the following section if the treatment differs from the control group.
  • Table 7 presents the statistical results observed in the comparison between Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple Solution 0.1% treatment and control (CTR).
  • CTRP Positive Control Group
  • Treatment Group Keratin Fermentation Broth Simple
  • the swatches initially received the application of artificial sebum (Negative Control Group - CTRN), so all of them presented the same dirt condition.
  • artificial sebum Negative Control Group - CTRN
  • CTRP 4 ml/g of hair was applied to the swatches and spread on wet hair. Each hair swatch was massaged 6 times from the root to the tip, and rinsed in running water (5 ⁇ 1 L/min and 35 ⁇ 2 °C) for 30 seconds.
  • BALL is the luster data internally developed to correlate with the sensorial perception of the luster from the images acquired within the luster chamber (Internal development); Dstamm is diffuse reflection proposed by Stamm and Fuchs from the light intensity profile; Scaussian is the first specular reflection; IMAX is the maximum intensity of the profile; and wi/2 is the width at half height of the intensity profile (or the luminous bandwidth in the image). For each swatch, the luster was calculated and the mean value was compared between non-conditioning shampoo and the treatment with fortifying shampoo and conditioner.
  • Equation 6 calculates the percentage compared to the nonconditioning shampoo. Equation 7 calculates the number of times the hair presents after the treatment application compared to the non-conditioning shampoo. These numbers will be presented along with statistical results observed in the following section if the treatment differs from the control group.
  • Table 8 presents the statistical results observed in the comparison between the treatment and control groups.
  • EXAMPLE 9 VISUALIZE THE PENETRATION OF SPECIFIC PEPTIDE INTO HAIR FIBERS USING FLUORESCENCE MICROSCOPY
  • Hair is formed from layers of polymerized keratin protein, and keratin-containing cosmetic formulations are thought to strengthen hair by fortifying and repairing keratin structure.
  • keratin-containing cosmetic formulations are thought to strengthen hair by fortifying and repairing keratin structure.
  • success of these formulations requires keratin that is able to penetrate into hair fibers.
  • KeratecTM peptides (high MW; Croda Inc.) accumulated only at the cuticle and can reach in rare cases the most external part of the cortex in some regions of relaxed hair fibers, likely where the cuticle is the most damaged.
  • Substrate lOmg of relaxed hair fibers ( ⁇ 30 hair fibers).
  • KeratecTM IFP PE (Croda Inc.; Batch # 22A26B105), -50,000 Da MW.
  • This amine reactive Rhodamine dye has an approximate excitation/emission maxima of -546/579 nm, which helps avoid autofluorescence of hair fibers which can be observed at 350-450 nm.
  • a dye working solution was prepared in DMSO at lOmg/mL.
  • the labeled peptide solutions were further purified by centrifugal devices with 1,000 MWCO for Fermented Binding Serum peptide solutions and 10,000 MWCO for KeratecTM peptide solutions. This step removes any unbound dye present in the solution and concentrates the labeled peptides.
  • centrifugal devices were centrifuged at 6,500 x g at 24°C with a spin time of 20 minutes. This step was repeated 15 times using lx PBS for washing after every spin cycle. After 15 times, the flow-through was visibly clear.
  • the BCA protein quantification assay was used to determine the concentration of peptides against a standard curve of known concentrations. This step was performed prior to fluorescence labeling to calculate the volume required for lOmg of “protein” for proper controlled labeling.
  • KeratecTM concentrated only at the cuticle of the hair fibers, and in 1-2 cross-sections, minimal penetration into the most external regions of the cortex could be observed (Figure 10A-10B).
  • Croda Inc. warns about the presence of peptides in the 3,000 to 4,000 Daltons weight range.
  • the centrifugal device selected to purify labeled KeratecTM had a 10,000 Da molecular weight cut-off to alleviate this potential discrepancy. Labeled peptides above 10,000 Da MW would be concentrated, while anything below should be washed out.
  • the substrate used was relaxed hair, which means that the cuticle can become damaged from the chemical treatment.
  • a possible explanation for the regions of external cortex penetration by this high MW peptide is that the cuticle was damaged enough in those regions to allow some penetration of KeratecTM.
  • Figure 11 shows a semi-quantitative analysis of total fluorescence intensity of the hair cross-sections after treatment with labeled peptide for 24 hours. The values were corrected for the image background. The results are reported in mean ⁇ standard deviation. The control refers to the hair soaked for 24 hours in dye- only solution after purification. The corrected total fluorescence value corresponding to the penetration of the Fermented Binding Serum is significantly higher compared to that of KeratecTM, further supporting the increased penetration of the Fermented Binding Serum peptides into the hair cortex seen after 24 hours of treatment. Table 10: Mean corrected total fluorescence
  • KeratecTM peptides (high MW; Croda Inc.) accumulated only at the cuticle and can reach in rare cases the most external part of the cortex in some regions of relaxed hair fibers, likely where the cuticle is the most damaged.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne de manière générale un bouillon de fermentation de kératine ou une fraction ou un isolat de celui-ci destiné à être utilisé dans des compositions cosmétiques, plus particulièrement des compositions pour le traitement capillaire telles que des shampooings et des après-shampooings. Le bouillon de fermentation de la kératine comprend a) de la kératine fermentée et/ou de la kératine hydrolysée, b) une espèce de Lactobacillus et c) un sucre simple.
PCT/US2023/029133 2023-04-28 2023-07-31 Sérum de liaison fermenté Pending WO2024226077A1 (fr)

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PCT/US2024/026629 WO2024227065A1 (fr) 2023-04-28 2024-04-26 Sérum de liaison fermenté
CN202480028618.0A CN121057573A (zh) 2023-04-28 2024-04-26 发酵结合精华
AU2024261375A AU2024261375A1 (en) 2023-04-28 2024-04-26 Fermented binding serum

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20100196302A1 (en) * 2007-06-28 2010-08-05 Alane Beatriz Vermelho Keratin Hydrolysates, Process for Their Production and Cosmetic Composition Containing the Same
US20200383901A1 (en) * 2016-12-28 2020-12-10 Yamada Bee Company, Inc. Fermented honey product and production method therefor

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20100196302A1 (en) * 2007-06-28 2010-08-05 Alane Beatriz Vermelho Keratin Hydrolysates, Process for Their Production and Cosmetic Composition Containing the Same
US20200383901A1 (en) * 2016-12-28 2020-12-10 Yamada Bee Company, Inc. Fermented honey product and production method therefor

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
GAIDAU CARMEN, STANCA MARIA, NICULESCU MIHAELA-DOINA, ALEXE COSMIN-ANDREI, BECHERITU MARIUS, HOROIAS ROXANA, CIOINEAG CRISTIAN, RÂ: "Wool Keratin Hydrolysates for Bioactive Additives Preparation", MATER, vol. 14, no. 16, 20 August 2021 (2021-08-20), pages 4696, XP093185334, ISSN: 1996-1944, DOI: 10.3390/ma14164696 *

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