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WO2024223504A1 - Hair conditioning composition comprising particulated starch - Google Patents

Hair conditioning composition comprising particulated starch Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024223504A1
WO2024223504A1 PCT/EP2024/060979 EP2024060979W WO2024223504A1 WO 2024223504 A1 WO2024223504 A1 WO 2024223504A1 EP 2024060979 W EP2024060979 W EP 2024060979W WO 2024223504 A1 WO2024223504 A1 WO 2024223504A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
starch
composition
hair
oil
silicone
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2024/060979
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Andrew Richard Avery
Michael James Cooke
Cesar Ernesto MENDOZA FERNANDEZ
Nerea ORTUOSTE ELCORO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unilever Global IP Ltd
Unilever IP Holdings BV
Conopco Inc
Original Assignee
Unilever Global IP Ltd
Unilever IP Holdings BV
Conopco Inc
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Global IP Ltd, Unilever IP Holdings BV, Conopco Inc filed Critical Unilever Global IP Ltd
Publication of WO2024223504A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024223504A1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34Free of silicones
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • the invention lies in the field of hair conditioner compositions that deliver conditioning benefits to hair, without the inclusion of silicone.
  • hair treatments such as shampoos and conditioners, that provide conditioning benefits, for example smoothness, ease of comb and softness to their hair.
  • Conditioning benefits are desired and perceived by the consumer both during and after the wash process. Thus, conditioning is evaluated both when the hair is wet and when it is dry. As such, it is desirable that rinse-off haircare products such as conditioners provide multiple benefits at different stages of use. Wet conditioning and dry conditioning are different benefits and are typically delivered in different ways.
  • Conditioners having superior rheology can provide improved conditioning benefits and are preferred by consumers.
  • Silicones are primarily used to provide conditioning benefits at the post drying stages. In silicone-free conditioner formulations alternative approaches are required to provide such benefits.
  • WO2017/172117 (L’Oreal) - discloses a composition for treating keratinous substrates, comprising (a) a cationic agent comprising a defined first quaternary ammonium compound, a defined second quaternary compounds of imidazoline; (b) a modified starch; (c) a defined first silane compound, (d) a second silane compound, (e) at least one cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer and (f) water, to provide conditioning and styling benefits. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphates are preferred and exemplified.
  • US2006/0182702 (L’Oreal) - uses a composition comprising, a cationic surfactant, a starch which is preferably modified, a non-silicone cationic polymer with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, and a nonionic non-polymeric solid compound with a melting point of greater than or equal to 35 degrees C and/or with a viscosity, at a temperature of 40 degrees C and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s, to provide an improved conditioning effect to hair, especially smoothing of the ends.
  • FR2976488 (L’Oreal) - discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of pumice particles (i); one or more starches (ii); one or more solid fatty alcohols (iii); and one or more fatty esters (iv) to provide durable treatment of keratin fibers that are damaged on the surface.
  • a use for smoothing hair is disclosed.
  • Distarch phosphate of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl maize is exemplified.
  • US2005069511 discloses a cosmetic composition, comprising, at least one starch, at least one carboxylic ester, water and up to 20 wt % of fatty phase relative to the total weight of composition.
  • the use of these compositions, based on a specific ester and a starch allegedly provides hair that is easy to disentangle and is smooth from root to tip, with an improvement in the hold of the style.
  • a pregelatinized corn distarch phosphate or Potato fecula modified with 2- chloro-ethylamidodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide are utilised in the examples on wet hair to provide wet hair that is not heavy and hair shaping is easy.
  • US2016038397- (Penford Corp) dislcoses a cosmetic composition comprising: water; an ingredient selected from detergents and non-detersive conditioning agents; a cationic starch characterized by: a) an amylopectin/amylose weight ratio of greater than or equal to 60/40; b) an apparent cationic molecular weight of greater than or equal to 12 million daltons; and c) a cationic degree of substitution of from 0.5 meq/g to 2.5 meq/g to provide improved conditioning properties to personal care compositions.
  • the personal care formulations can be used with or without silicone.
  • Shampoos comprising cationic substituted starches allegedly give conditioning benefits in the wet stage.
  • EP1923046 discloses a styling emulsion composition for keratin fibres especially hair for conditioning, styling and restyling purposes.
  • the compositions comprise at least one oil and/or wax, at least one natural starch and at least one emulsifier, which can also contain hair fixing polymers.
  • a particulate starch particle and an oil in a silicone free conditioner provides improved clean feel, whilst also delivering dry conditioning, despite the absence of silicone.
  • a further advantage is found in the provision of improved yield stress of the compositions used in the present invention.
  • Application of hair conditioning compositions to damaged areas of the hair, for example tip ends, is more effective and easier when using a high yield stress composition.
  • Such targeted application avoids overdosing on healthy areas where no conditioning is needed.
  • negative tactile sensations associated with unclean feel are avoided. This increases the overall sensory delivery of a clean feel benefit for the conditioned hair.
  • the invention provides a use of a particulate starch particle and a non-silicone oil in a silicone free composition to provide clean feel to hair.
  • the particulate starch particle and non-silicone oil also provide a conditioning benefit to hair, despite the absence of silicone.
  • the conditioning benefit is a reduced coefficient of friction compared with hair treated with the same composition without the presence of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns and hydrophobic non-silicone oil.
  • the hair is dry hair.
  • the composition is a hair conditioner composition
  • a hair conditioner composition comprising: i) 0.01 to 1.5 wt %, by weight of the total composition, of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and ii) 0.01 to 3 wt % of a hydrophobic non-silicone oil; wherein, the weight ratio of starch (i) to oil (ii) is from 2:1 to 1:2; wherein i) and ii) are dispersed within: iii) a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material; and wherein the composition is free from silicone.
  • the clean feel of hair is improved compared with hair treated with the same composition but without the presence of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns and hydrophobic non-silicone oil, preferably without the presence of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns.
  • the hair conditioner composition for use in the invention preferably comprises: from 0.01 to 1.5 wt % (by weight of the total composition) of a starch, which is particulate starch, having a particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and 0.01 to 3 wt % of a hydrophobic non-silicone oil; in a weight ratio of starch to oil of from 2:1 to 1 : 2, preferably 1 :1.
  • the composition has a yield stress of from 120 to 170, preferably 130 to 160, when measured within 24 hours of manufacture.
  • the yield stress may be measured by any suitable technique.
  • One suitable method uses a rheometer, for example an AR-G2 rheometer, from TA Instruments.
  • One method uses a serrated parallel-plate geometry, for example 40mm in diameter, attached to the rheometer capable of applying oscillations at a constant frequency of 1 Hz, and an amplitude sweep in the range of
  • the amplitude sweep range is applied at no more than ten points per decade of strain range covered at no more than 4 cycles per amplitude.
  • the instrument should be operated under controlled strain.
  • the geometry’s temperature should be set at 25°C by means of, for example, a Peltier-controlled plate, or a recirculating bath.
  • the yield stress can then be determined by plotting the elastic stress against strain amplitude, and at the peak of the curve, with the maximum value being taken as the yield stress.
  • the starch is a particulate starch.
  • the starch remains particulate in the composition.
  • the starch for use in the invention has a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns, preferably from 2 to 10 microns, most preferably from 3 to 9 microns.
  • Any suitable particle size analyser such as a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 may be used to characterize starch particles.
  • a suitable refractive index (Rl) of starch is 1.530 (as given in Holes in Starch Granules: Confocal, SEM and Light Microscopy Studies of Starch Granule Structure, Baldwin,
  • a laser diffraction technique may be employed.
  • the sample is dispersed in water (which has a Rl of 1.330) and passed into a sample window using a recirculating cell, where any particles present scatter the light.
  • the refractive indices for both the particles and the suspending media are used for particle size determination. The following method may suitably be used:
  • Starch powder (0.1 g) is suspended in 10mL of deionised water and pipetted into a Mastersizer 3000 Hydro Medium Volume cell until a 5 % obscuration limit is reached. This process is preferably repeated three times for each starch sample at a stirrer speed of 2400 rpm.
  • the starches for use in the compositions of the invention are in the form of discrete particles. As such, the starches are not gelatinized.
  • the starches for use in the present invention remain in particulate form in the compositions of the invention. Particles should be visible in the composition using a light microscope such as a polarising optical microscope (Olympus BX51) in transmittance mode, at 20X magnification.
  • the starch is selected from rice starch, quinoa starch, amaranth starch and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the starch is selected from rice starch, quinoa starch and mixtures thereof, most preferably the starch is rice starch.
  • Highly preferred rice starches may be selected from those that have been cationically modified or combined with cetrimonium chloride (for example D.S.A 7 rice starch, available from Argana Starch), crosslinked di-phosphate starches (for example Rice PO4 Natural from Agrana Starch), or a natural rice starch (for example Reisita Natural, available from Agrana Starch), and mixtures thereof.
  • cetrimonium chloride for example D.S.A 7 rice starch, available from Argana Starch
  • crosslinked di-phosphate starches for example Rice PO4 Natural from Agrana Starch
  • a natural rice starch for example Reisita Natural, available from Agrana Starch
  • oils for use in the compositions of the invention are hydrophobic non-silicone oils.
  • Suitable hydrophobic non-silicone oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty ester oils and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrocarbon oils can be natural or synthetic. Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms. Also suitable are branched chain hydrocarbon oils, which preferably contain from about 12 to about 42 carbon atoms. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C2 to C6 alkenyl monomers.
  • hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, polyalphaolefin, squalane, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used.
  • Another suitable material is polyisobutylene.
  • a preferred polyalphaolefin is commercially available as Silkflo 366 TM (dec-1-ene) ex Ineos.
  • Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 6 carbon atoms and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols.
  • Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or acids of the formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.
  • Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C1-C22 carboxylic acids.
  • Preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.
  • the hydrophobic non-silicone oil is preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils selected from paraffin oil, mineral oil, polyalphaolefin oil, esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions of the invention may optionally comprise an emulsified non-silicone oil.
  • the oil is preferably described as above, for the hydrophobic non-silicone oil.
  • the non-emulsified oil for use in the composition and the emulsified oil can be the same or different.
  • the emulsified non-silicone may be made by any suitable process and a skilled person in the art will know how to prepare such emulsified oils.
  • the emulsified non- silicone oil may be produced via a catastrophic inversion process using a high shear homogeniser (for example, an Ultra Turrax T25 Basic S2 with a S25N-10G dispersing tool, from IKA, Germany).
  • the emulsion may be formed by dropwise addition of water to a mixture of oil and surfactant under shear at a rate of, for example, 0.5 ml per minute prior to the inversion point.
  • the emulsifying surfactant(s) may be nonionic, cationic, or a mixture of nonionic and cationic and the inclusion level of the total surfactant amount may typically range from 0.1% to 2% by weight of the emulsion.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants will be known to those skilled in the art and may include for example Lutensol XP-79 (ex BASF).
  • Suitable cationic surfactants will be known to a person skilled in the art and may include for example cetrimmonium chloride.
  • compositions of the invention are free from silicone.
  • by free from is meant having less than 0.4 weight %, more preferably less than 0.1 weight %, even more preferably less than 0.05 weight %, still more preferably less than 0.001 weight %, yet preferably less than 0.0001 weight %, and most preferably 0 weight % of silicone by weight of the total composition.
  • compositions of the invention are also free from silanes.
  • the conditioning base comprises a cationic conditioning surfactant and a fatty alcohol.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
  • Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture. Examples include guaternary ammonium cationic surfactants corresponding to the following general formula:
  • R2, R3, and R ⁇ are each independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halide, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate, for example methosulphate, radicals.
  • halide e.g. chloride, bromide
  • the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the above general formula are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleyl
  • R1 is a C16 to C22 saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain and R ⁇ , R3 and R ⁇ are each independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, preferably CH3.
  • CTAC cetyltrimethylammonium chloride
  • BTAC behenyltrimethylammonium chloride
  • the quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant has a cation selected from cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium.
  • primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines may be used in combination with an acid to provide a cationic surfactant suitable for use in the invention.
  • the acid protonates the amine and forms an amine salt in situ in the hair care composition.
  • the amine is therefore effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
  • Suitable fatty amines of this type include amidoamines of the following general formula:
  • Suitable materials of the above general formula are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine.stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and diethylaminoethylstearamide.
  • dimethylstearamine dimethylsoyamine, oyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidyl behenylamine.
  • Particularly preferred is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • the conditioning surfactant is present in the composition in a concentration of 0.1 to 10%, preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least 1 %, still more preferably at least 2%, even more preferably at least 3% or even at least 4% but typically not more than 9%, preferably not more than 8%, more preferably not more than 7%, still more preferably not more than 6%, even more preferably not more than 5% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention comprise a fatty alcohol having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C 8 to C 22 .
  • fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is preferred because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
  • the fatty alcohol comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22, most preferably C16 to C18.
  • Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Preferably, the alkyl groups are saturated. Examples of preferred fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions for use in the invention.
  • the level of fatty alcohol in conditioners for use in the invention will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.2 to 7%, most preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of cationic-surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 1 : 1 to 1 : 10, preferably from 1 : 1.5 to 1 :8, optimally from 1 :2 to 1 :5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers.
  • a preferred conditioner comprises a conditioning gel phase having little or no vesicle content.
  • Such conditioners and methods for making them are described in WO2014/016354, WO2014/016353, WO2012/016352 and WO2014/016351.
  • Such a conditioning gel phase comprises, by total weight of the composition, i) from 0.4 to 8 wt % of fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbons, ii) from 0.1 to 2 wt % of cationic surfactant, and the composition confers a Draw Mass of from 1 to 250 g, preferably 2 to 100 g, more preferably 2 to 50 g, even more preferably 5 to 40 g and most preferably 5 to 25 g to hair treated with the composition.
  • Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch through a comb or brush.
  • the more tangled the hair the greater the mass required to pull the switch through the comb or brush, and the greater the level of condition of the hair, the lower the Draw Mass.
  • the Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch, for example of weight 1 to 20 g, length 10 to 30 cm, and width 0.5 to 5 cm through a comb or brush, as measured by first placing the hair switch onto the comb or brush, such that from 5 to 20 cm of hair is left hanging at the glued end of the switch, and then adding weights to the hanging end until the switch falls through the comb or brush.
  • the hair switch is of weight 1 to 20 g, more preferably 2 to 15 g, most preferably from 5 to10 g.
  • the hair switch has a length of from 10 to 40 cm, more preferably from 10 to 30 cm, and a width of from 0.5 to 5 cm, more preferably from 1.5 to 4 cm.
  • the Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch, for example of weight 10 g, length 20 cm, and width 3 cm through a comb or brush, as measured by first placing the hair switch onto the comb or brush, such that from 20 cm of hair is left hanging at the glued end of the switch, and then adding weights to the hanging end until the switch falls through the comb or brush.
  • ratios, percentages, parts, and the like, referred to herein, are by weight.
  • Example 1 Preparation of Compositions for use in the ensuing examples
  • Composition A A.
  • compositions 1 - 3 Conditioners comprising oil with different particulate starches in accordance with the invention
  • Composition A Comparative conditioner comprising an oil only with no starch
  • the particle size of the particulate starches was measured using the method described herein.
  • Table 1 Composition of hair conditioners 1-3, for use in accordance with the invention and comparative conditioner A.
  • - Rice PO4 Natural ex Agrana Starch having a Dv(50) particle size of 7.66 micrometers
  • compositions in Table 1 were prepared as follows:
  • Surfactants and fatty materials were added to a suitable vessel and heated to above the melting point of the fatty materials to form a melt.
  • the mixture was then cooled to below 40°C and the rest of the materials, including the emulsified oil, fragrance, were added.
  • compositions 1-3 for use in accordance with the invention and comparative A were used to treat hair.
  • Clean feel was then assessed by use of a device, for example, as described in Guest S. et al, Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, Vol. 3, 2013, pp. 66-78 and Guest S. et al, Journal of Texture Studies, Vol. 43, 2012, pp. 77-93, and references therein.
  • the specific device used herein employed a Micro Analog 3 signal processing system (Fylde Electronic Laboratories Ltd., UK), along with Dasylab data acquisition software (National Instruments, USA), a microphone and four 10 Newton capacity, SMT1 force transducers (Interface Inc., USA) attached to a glass-balsa panel (Aerospace Composite Products, USA).
  • Data presented herein were collected by an operator running a finger along the surface of a dried, treated hair tress (described above), laid flat upon the measuring plate, to allow the recording of load forces and vibration and calculation of the resulting friction coefficient and vibration amplitude.
  • the data was post processed via a series of R scripts into meaningful outputs. 3 repeats of each treatment were measured on a new substrate and the data averaged.
  • Microphone data was sampled from a high frequency range. The coefficient of friction was calculated from the load cell data. The clean feel of the hair was indicated by the combination of the coefficient of friction and the vibration amplitude (as shown by close correlation to sensory data).
  • compositions 1-3 for use in accordance with the invention which comprise both oil and starch, a significantly higher clean feel is obtained compared with Composition A, which did not comprise a starch particle.
  • Example 3 Preparation of Composition 4 in accordance with the invention and Comparative Composition B.
  • Hair conditioning compositions were prepared, having ingredients as shown in table below.
  • Example 4 represents composition according to the invention and Comp B is a comparative example with compositions comprising a non-particulate starch.
  • Table 3 Composition of hair conditioner 4, for use in accordance with the invention and comparative conditioner B.
  • Example 4 Yield Stress of Composition 4 in accordance with the invention.
  • the yield stress of the freshly made compositions was measured in an AR-G2 rheometer, from TA Instruments.
  • the method to measure the yield stress uses a serrated parallel-plate geometry, 40mm in diameter, attached to a suitable rheometer capable of applying oscillations at a constant frequency of 1 Hz, and an amplitude sweep in the range of 0.1 % to 2000%.
  • the amplitude sweep range is applied at no more than ten points per decade of strain range covered at no more than 4 cycles per amplitude.
  • the instrument should be operated under controlled strain.
  • the geometry’s temperature should be set at 25°C by means of, for example, a Peltier-controlled plate, or a recirculating bath.
  • the yield stress is determined by plotting the elastic stress against strain amplitude, and at the peak of the curve, the maximum value is quoted as the yield stress.
  • Table 4 Yield Stress of Composition 4 and Comparative composition B The results show that the yield stress for Example 1 is higher than for the comparative composition. This is predicted to increase the sensory clean feel of the hair treated with this conditioner.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Use of a particulate starch particle and a non-silicone oil in a silicone free composition to provide clean feel to hair; a preferred composition being a hair treatment composition comprising: i) 0.01 to 1.5 wt %, by weight of the total composition, of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and ii) 0.01 to 3 wt % of a hydrophobic non-silicone oil; wherein, the weight ratio of starch (i) to oil (ii) is from 2:1 to 1:2; wherein i) and i) are dispersed within: iii) a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material.

Description

HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION COMPRISING PARTICULATED STARCH
Field of the Invention
The invention lies in the field of hair conditioner compositions that deliver conditioning benefits to hair, without the inclusion of silicone.
Background of the Invention
Consumers desire hair treatments, such as shampoos and conditioners, that provide conditioning benefits, for example smoothness, ease of comb and softness to their hair.
Conditioning benefits are desired and perceived by the consumer both during and after the wash process. Thus, conditioning is evaluated both when the hair is wet and when it is dry. As such, it is desirable that rinse-off haircare products such as conditioners provide multiple benefits at different stages of use. Wet conditioning and dry conditioning are different benefits and are typically delivered in different ways.
The impact of the gel phase component of a conditioning product is most apparent when wet or damp hair is evaluated, as well as during application and distribution through the hair.
Product rheology is a key attribute to consumers. Conditioners having superior rheology, such as thickness and yield stress can provide improved conditioning benefits and are preferred by consumers.
Silicones are primarily used to provide conditioning benefits at the post drying stages. In silicone-free conditioner formulations alternative approaches are required to provide such benefits.
Starches have been used in hair conditioning compositions:
WO2017/172117 (L’Oreal) - discloses a composition for treating keratinous substrates, comprising (a) a cationic agent comprising a defined first quaternary ammonium compound, a defined second quaternary compounds of imidazoline; (b) a modified starch; (c) a defined first silane compound, (d) a second silane compound, (e) at least one cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer and (f) water, to provide conditioning and styling benefits. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphates are preferred and exemplified. US2006/0182702 (L’Oreal) - uses a composition comprising, a cationic surfactant, a starch which is preferably modified, a non-silicone cationic polymer with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, and a nonionic non-polymeric solid compound with a melting point of greater than or equal to 35 degrees C and/or with a viscosity, at a temperature of 40 degrees C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1, of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s, to provide an improved conditioning effect to hair, especially smoothing of the ends.
FR2976488 (L’Oreal) - discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of pumice particles (i); one or more starches (ii); one or more solid fatty alcohols (iii); and one or more fatty esters (iv) to provide durable treatment of keratin fibers that are damaged on the surface. A use for smoothing hair is disclosed. Distarch phosphate of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl maize is exemplified.
US2005069511 (L’Oreal) discloses a cosmetic composition, comprising, at least one starch, at least one carboxylic ester, water and up to 20 wt % of fatty phase relative to the total weight of composition. The use of these compositions, based on a specific ester and a starch allegedly provides hair that is easy to disentangle and is smooth from root to tip, with an improvement in the hold of the style. A pregelatinized corn distarch phosphate or Potato fecula modified with 2- chloro-ethylamidodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide are utilised in the examples on wet hair to provide wet hair that is not heavy and hair shaping is easy.
US2016038397- (Penford Corp) dislcoses a cosmetic composition comprising: water; an ingredient selected from detergents and non-detersive conditioning agents; a cationic starch characterized by: a) an amylopectin/amylose weight ratio of greater than or equal to 60/40; b) an apparent cationic molecular weight of greater than or equal to 12 million daltons; and c) a cationic degree of substitution of from 0.5 meq/g to 2.5 meq/g to provide improved conditioning properties to personal care compositions. The personal care formulations can be used with or without silicone. Shampoos comprising cationic substituted starches allegedly give conditioning benefits in the wet stage.
EP1923046 discloses a styling emulsion composition for keratin fibres especially hair for conditioning, styling and restyling purposes. The compositions comprise at least one oil and/or wax, at least one natural starch and at least one emulsifier, which can also contain hair fixing polymers. We have now surprisingly found that the inclusion of a particulate starch particle and an oil in a silicone free conditioner provides improved clean feel, whilst also delivering dry conditioning, despite the absence of silicone.
A further advantage is found in the provision of improved yield stress of the compositions used in the present invention. Application of hair conditioning compositions to damaged areas of the hair, for example tip ends, is more effective and easier when using a high yield stress composition. Such targeted application avoids overdosing on healthy areas where no conditioning is needed. Thus, negative tactile sensations associated with unclean feel are avoided. This increases the overall sensory delivery of a clean feel benefit for the conditioned hair.
Definition of the Invention
In a first aspect, the invention provides a use of a particulate starch particle and a non-silicone oil in a silicone free composition to provide clean feel to hair.
The particulate starch particle and non-silicone oil also provide a conditioning benefit to hair, despite the absence of silicone. Preferably, the conditioning benefit is a reduced coefficient of friction compared with hair treated with the same composition without the presence of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns and hydrophobic non-silicone oil.
Preferably, the hair is dry hair.
Preferably, the composition is a hair conditioner composition comprising: i) 0.01 to 1.5 wt %, by weight of the total composition, of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and ii) 0.01 to 3 wt % of a hydrophobic non-silicone oil; wherein, the weight ratio of starch (i) to oil (ii) is from 2:1 to 1:2; wherein i) and ii) are dispersed within: iii) a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material; and wherein the composition is free from silicone.
In the use of the invention, the clean feel of hair is improved compared with hair treated with the same composition but without the presence of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns and hydrophobic non-silicone oil, preferably without the presence of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns.
Detailed Description of the Invention
The hair conditioner composition for use in the invention preferably comprises: from 0.01 to 1.5 wt % (by weight of the total composition) of a starch, which is particulate starch, having a particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and 0.01 to 3 wt % of a hydrophobic non-silicone oil; in a weight ratio of starch to oil of from 2:1 to 1 : 2, preferably 1 :1.
In the use of the invention, the composition has a yield stress of from 120 to 170, preferably 130 to 160, when measured within 24 hours of manufacture.
The yield stress may be measured by any suitable technique. One suitable method uses a rheometer, for example an AR-G2 rheometer, from TA Instruments. One method uses a serrated parallel-plate geometry, for example 40mm in diameter, attached to the rheometer capable of applying oscillations at a constant frequency of 1 Hz, and an amplitude sweep in the range of
O.1% to 2000%. The amplitude sweep range is applied at no more than ten points per decade of strain range covered at no more than 4 cycles per amplitude. The instrument should be operated under controlled strain. The geometry’s temperature should be set at 25°C by means of, for example, a Peltier-controlled plate, or a recirculating bath. The yield stress can then be determined by plotting the elastic stress against strain amplitude, and at the peak of the curve, with the maximum value being taken as the yield stress.
The Starch
The starch is a particulate starch. The starch remains particulate in the composition.
The starch for use in the invention has a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns, preferably from 2 to 10 microns, most preferably from 3 to 9 microns.
Any suitable particle size analyser, such as a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 may be used to characterize starch particles. A suitable refractive index (Rl) of starch is 1.530 (as given in Holes in Starch Granules: Confocal, SEM and Light Microscopy Studies of Starch Granule Structure, Baldwin,
P.M., Adler, J., Davies, M.C., Melia, C.D., Starch/Starke 46 (1994) Nr.9, S. 341-346). A laser diffraction technique may be employed. The sample is dispersed in water (which has a Rl of 1.330) and passed into a sample window using a recirculating cell, where any particles present scatter the light. The refractive indices for both the particles and the suspending media are used for particle size determination. The following method may suitably be used:
Starch powder (0.1 g) is suspended in 10mL of deionised water and pipetted into a Mastersizer 3000 Hydro Medium Volume cell until a 5 % obscuration limit is reached. This process is preferably repeated three times for each starch sample at a stirrer speed of 2400 rpm.
Results are reported here as ‘particle size (pm) against volume (%)’ for Dv (10), Dv (50) and Dv (90) indicating that 10%, 50% and 90% respectively, of particles are smaller than the quoted size
The starches for use in the compositions of the invention are in the form of discrete particles. As such, the starches are not gelatinized. The starches for use in the present invention remain in particulate form in the compositions of the invention. Particles should be visible in the composition using a light microscope such as a polarising optical microscope (Olympus BX51) in transmittance mode, at 20X magnification.
Preferably, the starch is selected from rice starch, quinoa starch, amaranth starch and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the starch is selected from rice starch, quinoa starch and mixtures thereof, most preferably the starch is rice starch.
Highly preferred rice starches may be selected from those that have been cationically modified or combined with cetrimonium chloride (for example D.S.A 7 rice starch, available from Argana Starch), crosslinked di-phosphate starches (for example Rice PO4 Natural from Agrana Starch), or a natural rice starch (for example Reisita Natural, available from Agrana Starch), and mixtures thereof.
The hydrophobic non-silicone oil
The oils for use in the compositions of the invention are hydrophobic non-silicone oils.
Suitable hydrophobic non-silicone oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty ester oils and mixtures thereof.
The hydrocarbon oils can be natural or synthetic. Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms. Also suitable are branched chain hydrocarbon oils, which preferably contain from about 12 to about 42 carbon atoms. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C2 to C6 alkenyl monomers.
Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, polyalphaolefin, squalane, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used. Another suitable material is polyisobutylene.
A preferred polyalphaolefin is commercially available as Silkflo 366 ™ (dec-1-ene) ex Ineos. Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 6 carbon atoms and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols. Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or acids of the formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.
Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C1-C22 carboxylic acids. Preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.
The hydrophobic non-silicone oil is preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils selected from paraffin oil, mineral oil, polyalphaolefin oil, esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols and mixtures thereof.
Optional emulsified non-silicone oil
The compositions of the invention may optionally comprise an emulsified non-silicone oil. The oil is preferably described as above, for the hydrophobic non-silicone oil.
The non-emulsified oil for use in the composition and the emulsified oil can be the same or different. The emulsified non-silicone may be made by any suitable process and a skilled person in the art will know how to prepare such emulsified oils. In a preferred process the emulsified non- silicone oil may be produced via a catastrophic inversion process using a high shear homogeniser (for example, an Ultra Turrax T25 Basic S2 with a S25N-10G dispersing tool, from IKA, Germany). The emulsion may be formed by dropwise addition of water to a mixture of oil and surfactant under shear at a rate of, for example, 0.5 ml per minute prior to the inversion point.
The emulsifying surfactant(s) may be nonionic, cationic, or a mixture of nonionic and cationic and the inclusion level of the total surfactant amount may typically range from 0.1% to 2% by weight of the emulsion. Suitable nonionic surfactants will be known to those skilled in the art and may include for example Lutensol XP-79 (ex BASF). Suitable cationic surfactants will be known to a person skilled in the art and may include for example cetrimmonium chloride.
Silicone free
The compositions of the invention are free from silicone. In the context of the invention, by free from is meant having less than 0.4 weight %, more preferably less than 0.1 weight %, even more preferably less than 0.05 weight %, still more preferably less than 0.001 weight %, yet preferably less than 0.0001 weight %, and most preferably 0 weight % of silicone by weight of the total composition.
Preferably, the compositions of the invention are also free from silanes.
The conditioning gel base
The conditioning base comprises a cationic conditioning surfactant and a fatty alcohol.
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture. Examples include guaternary ammonium cationic surfactants corresponding to the following general formula:
[N(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4)]+ (X)- in which , R2, R3, and R^ are each independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halide, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate, for example methosulphate, radicals.
The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
Specific examples of such quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the above general formula are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleylammonium chloride and salts of these, where the chloride is replaced by other halide (e.g., bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, or alkylsulphate.
In a preferred class of cationic surfactant of the above general formula, R1 is a C16 to C22 saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain and R^, R3 and R^ are each independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, preferably CH3.
Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC) and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant has a cation selected from cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium.
Alternatively, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines may be used in combination with an acid to provide a cationic surfactant suitable for use in the invention. The acid protonates the amine and forms an amine salt in situ in the hair care composition. The amine is therefore effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
Suitable fatty amines of this type include amidoamines of the following general formula:
R1-C(O)-N(H)-R2-N(R3)(R4) in which is a fatty acid chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group containing from one to four carbon atoms, and R3 and R4 are each independently, an alkyl group having from one to four carbon atoms.
Specific examples of suitable materials of the above general formula are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine.stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and diethylaminoethylstearamide.
Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, oyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidyl behenylamine.
Particularly preferred is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
The conditioning surfactant is present in the composition in a concentration of 0.1 to 10%, preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least 1 %, still more preferably at least 2%, even more preferably at least 3% or even at least 4% but typically not more than 9%, preferably not more than 8%, more preferably not more than 7%, still more preferably not more than 6%, even more preferably not more than 5% by weight of the composition.
The fatty alcohol
The compositions of the invention comprise a fatty alcohol having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C8 to C22. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is preferred because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
The fatty alcohol comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22, most preferably C16 to C18. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Preferably, the alkyl groups are saturated. Examples of preferred fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions for use in the invention.
The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners for use in the invention will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.2 to 7%, most preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight of the composition.
The weight ratio of cationic-surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 1 : 1 to 1 : 10, preferably from 1 : 1.5 to 1 :8, optimally from 1 :2 to 1 :5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers.
A preferred conditioner comprises a conditioning gel phase having little or no vesicle content. Such conditioners and methods for making them are described in WO2014/016354, WO2014/016353, WO2012/016352 and WO2014/016351.
Such a conditioning gel phase comprises, by total weight of the composition, i) from 0.4 to 8 wt % of fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbons, ii) from 0.1 to 2 wt % of cationic surfactant, and the composition confers a Draw Mass of from 1 to 250 g, preferably 2 to 100 g, more preferably 2 to 50 g, even more preferably 5 to 40 g and most preferably 5 to 25 g to hair treated with the composition.
Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch through a comb or brush. Thus the more tangled the hair the greater the mass required to pull the switch through the comb or brush, and the greater the level of condition of the hair, the lower the Draw Mass.
The Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch, for example of weight 1 to 20 g, length 10 to 30 cm, and width 0.5 to 5 cm through a comb or brush, as measured by first placing the hair switch onto the comb or brush, such that from 5 to 20 cm of hair is left hanging at the glued end of the switch, and then adding weights to the hanging end until the switch falls through the comb or brush.
Preferably, the hair switch is of weight 1 to 20 g, more preferably 2 to 15 g, most preferably from 5 to10 g. Preferably, the hair switch has a length of from 10 to 40 cm, more preferably from 10 to 30 cm, and a width of from 0.5 to 5 cm, more preferably from 1.5 to 4 cm.
Most preferably, the Draw Mass is the mass required to draw a hair switch, for example of weight 10 g, length 20 cm, and width 3 cm through a comb or brush, as measured by first placing the hair switch onto the comb or brush, such that from 20 cm of hair is left hanging at the glued end of the switch, and then adding weights to the hanging end until the switch falls through the comb or brush.
Unless otherwise indicated, ratios, percentages, parts, and the like, referred to herein, are by weight.
Aspects of the invention will now be illustrated by the following examples.
Examples
Example 1 : Preparation of Compositions for use in the ensuing examples;
Preparation of Compositions 1 - 3 in accordance with the invention and Comparative
Composition A.
The following conditioner compositions were prepared:
Compositions 1 - 3: Conditioners comprising oil with different particulate starches in accordance with the invention
Composition A: Comparative conditioner comprising an oil only with no starch
The particle size of the particulate starches was measured using the method described herein. Table 1 : Composition of hair conditioners 1-3, for use in accordance with the invention and comparative conditioner A.
Figure imgf000013_0001
- Rice PO4 Natural ex Agrana Starch, having a Dv(50) particle size of 7.66 micrometers
- Reisita Natural starch ex Agrana Starch, having a Dv(50) particle size of 8.00 micrometers
- D.S.A.7 starch particles ex Agrana Starch, having a Dv(50) particle size of 8.39 micrometers
- Silkflo 366: polyalphaolefin oil (dec-1-ene) ex Ineos - Ginol 1618 TA ex Godrej
- Genamin BTLF ex Clariant The compositions in Table 1 were prepared as follows:
1. Water was added to a suitable vessel, lactic acid was added and the vessel heated to 80 °C.
2. Surfactants and fatty materials were added to a suitable vessel and heated to above the melting point of the fatty materials to form a melt.
3. The melt was combined with the water phase and the resultant mixture mixed until opaque and thick.
4. The heat was then turned off and quench water was added.
5. The mixture was then cooled to below 40°C and the rest of the materials, including the emulsified oil, fragrance, were added.
6. The starch and oil were added to the composition.
7. Finally the formulation was mixed at high shear on a Silverson mixer at 5000rpm for 5 minutes.
Example 2: Effect of oil and starch on clean feel of treated hair
Compositions 1-3, for use in accordance with the invention and comparative A were used to treat hair.
The hair was treated using the following method:
5 g 10 inch Dark Brown European switches were wetted under a tap. A solution of 14 wt % sodium laureth sulfate with one unit of ethoxylation was applied to the switch (at 0.1 g per gram of hair). The switch was massaged for 30 seconds and then rinsed under the tap for 30 seconds. This was repeated. The wet switches were then detangled using a comb. The conditioner composition (0.2 g per gram hair) was then applied to the hair and massaged for 1 min, before being rinsed for 1 min under a controlled flow of water. The switches were left to dry at room temperature.
Clean feel was then assessed by use of a device, for example, as described in Guest S. et al, Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, Vol. 3, 2013, pp. 66-78 and Guest S. et al, Journal of Texture Studies, Vol. 43, 2012, pp. 77-93, and references therein.
The specific device used herein employed a Micro Analog 3 signal processing system (Fylde Electronic Laboratories Ltd., UK), along with Dasylab data acquisition software (National Instruments, USA), a microphone and four 10 Newton capacity, SMT1 force transducers (Interface Inc., USA) attached to a glass-balsa panel (Aerospace Composite Products, USA). Data presented herein were collected by an operator running a finger along the surface of a dried, treated hair tress (described above), laid flat upon the measuring plate, to allow the recording of load forces and vibration and calculation of the resulting friction coefficient and vibration amplitude. The data was post processed via a series of R scripts into meaningful outputs. 3 repeats of each treatment were measured on a new substrate and the data averaged. Microphone data was sampled from a high frequency range. The coefficient of friction was calculated from the load cell data. The clean feel of the hair was indicated by the combination of the coefficient of friction and the vibration amplitude (as shown by close correlation to sensory data).
The results are given in Table 2 below:
Table 2: Clean feel of hair treated with Compositions 1-3 and Comparative composition A
Figure imgf000015_0001
The results show that with the compositions 1-3 for use in accordance with the invention which comprise both oil and starch, a significantly higher clean feel is obtained compared with Composition A, which did not comprise a starch particle.
Example 3: Preparation of Composition 4 in accordance with the invention and Comparative Composition B.
Hair conditioning compositions were prepared, having ingredients as shown in table below. Example 4 represents composition according to the invention and Comp B is a comparative example with compositions comprising a non-particulate starch.
Table 3: Composition of hair conditioner 4, for use in accordance with the invention and comparative conditioner B.
Figure imgf000016_0001
Table 3a: Composition of the *Emulsified oil
Figure imgf000016_0002
Example 4: Yield Stress of Composition 4 in accordance with the invention and
Comparative Composition B.
The yield stress of the freshly made compositions was measured in an AR-G2 rheometer, from TA Instruments. The method to measure the yield stress uses a serrated parallel-plate geometry, 40mm in diameter, attached to a suitable rheometer capable of applying oscillations at a constant frequency of 1 Hz, and an amplitude sweep in the range of 0.1 % to 2000%. The amplitude sweep range is applied at no more than ten points per decade of strain range covered at no more than 4 cycles per amplitude. The instrument should be operated under controlled strain. The geometry’s temperature should be set at 25°C by means of, for example, a Peltier-controlled plate, or a recirculating bath. The yield stress is determined by plotting the elastic stress against strain amplitude, and at the peak of the curve, the maximum value is quoted as the yield stress.
Table 4: Yield Stress of Composition 4 and Comparative composition B
Figure imgf000017_0001
The results show that the yield stress for Example 1 is higher than for the comparative composition. This is predicted to increase the sensory clean feel of the hair treated with this conditioner.

Claims

Claims
1. Use of a particulate starch particle and a non-silicone oil in a silicone free composition to provide clean feel to hair.
2. Use as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition is hair treatment composition comprising: i) 0.01 to 1.5 wt %, by weight of the total composition, of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns; and ii) 0.01 to 3 wt % of a hydrophobic non-silicone oil; wherein, the weight ratio of starch (i) to oil (ii) is from 2:1 to 1:2; wherein i) and i) are dispersed within: iii) a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material; and wherein the composition is free from silicone.
3. Use as claimed in claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the starch is selected from a rice starch, a quinoa starch, an amaranth starch and mixtures thereof.
4. Use as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the starch has a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 9 microns.
5. Use as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the hydrophobic non-silicone oil is selected from hydrocarbon oil, fatty ester oil and mixtures thereof.
6. Use as claimed in claim 5, wherein the hydrophobic non-silicone oil is selected from paraffin oil, mineral oil, polyalphaolefin, squalane, esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols and mixtures thereof.
7. Use as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the cationic surfactant is a quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
8. Use as claimed in claim 7, wherein the quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant has a cation selected from cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium.
9. Use as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the fatty alcohol has a carbon-carbon chain length of C8 to C22.
10. Use as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the composition has a yield stress of from 120 to 170, preferably 130 to 160, when measured within 24 hours of manufacture.
11. Use as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the hair is dry.
12. Use as described in any preceding claim, wherein the clean feel is improved compared with hair treated with the same composition but without the presence of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns and hydrophobic non-silicone oil.
13. Use as described in any preceding claim, wherein the starch particle and hydrophobic non- silicone oil also provide a conditioning benefit to hair.
14. Use as claimed in claim 13, wherein the conditioning benefit is a reduced coefficient of friction compared with hair treated with the same composition without the presence of starch particles having a Dv(50) particle size of from 1 to 12 microns and hydrophobic non-silicone oil.
PCT/EP2024/060979 2023-04-27 2024-04-22 Hair conditioning composition comprising particulated starch Pending WO2024223504A1 (en)

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