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WO2024213086A1 - Use of apg-based microemulsion in personal care compositions - Google Patents

Use of apg-based microemulsion in personal care compositions Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024213086A1
WO2024213086A1 PCT/CN2024/087394 CN2024087394W WO2024213086A1 WO 2024213086 A1 WO2024213086 A1 WO 2024213086A1 CN 2024087394 W CN2024087394 W CN 2024087394W WO 2024213086 A1 WO2024213086 A1 WO 2024213086A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
personal care
microemulsion
care composition
alkyl
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PCT/CN2024/087394
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French (fr)
Inventor
Zhao Ting LIU
Xiao Meng SHI
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BASF China Co Ltd
BASF SE
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BASF China Co Ltd
BASF SE
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Publication of WO2024213086A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024213086A1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/068Microemulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention relates to use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides (APG) in personal care compositions, and also personal care compositions, especially hair care compositions, comprising the microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides (APG) .
  • APG alkyl glycosides
  • Conditioning agent is an active ingredient commonly used in personal care compositions to improve the feel, texture, appearance of skin or hair.
  • the conditioning agent generally includes natural and synthetic emollients, humectants and occlusive agents.
  • Substances suitable as the conditioning agent are well-known, for example silicones, oils or waxes.
  • silicone compounds widely used in cosmetic and personal care formulations most commonly used are cyclomethicones, phenyl trimethicone, and dimethicones.
  • silicone compounds may provide various benefits such as reduction of wet combing force and increasing shine of hair.
  • silicone compounds can provide the aforementioned benefits without contributing to oiliness or greasiness, which is highly desired in personal care formulations such as shampoo and hair conditioning formulation.
  • personal care formulations such as shampoo and hair conditioning formulation.
  • silicone compounds are not biodegradable and not eco-friendly for being used in personal care formulations, and some publications have indicated already that silicone compounds, for instance dimethicones, are suspected to be environmental toxins and biocumulative.
  • the object can be achieved by a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides, which can significantly improve the deposition of the conditioning agent on hair, and thus a less usage of those active ingredients in personal care compositions is possible.
  • the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
  • the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion comprising
  • compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
  • the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones and fatty esters, onto hair or skin.
  • a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones and fatty esters
  • the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care composition for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones, fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin onto hair or skin.
  • a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones, fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin onto hair or skin.
  • the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion comprising
  • compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones and fatty esters onto hair or skin for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones and fatty esters onto hair or skin.
  • the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion comprising
  • a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones, fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin onto hair or skin.
  • the present invention relates to a method of improving deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair and/or skin, which comprises applying to hair and/or skin a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides and a conditioning agent.
  • the present invention relates to a personal care composition, particularly a hair care composition, which comprises
  • microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
  • the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  • the present invention relates to a hair care composition, particularly a shampoo composition, which comprises
  • microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water.
  • the present invention relates to a hair care composition, particularly a shampoo composition, which comprises
  • microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water, and
  • At least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of fatty esters.
  • the present invention relates to a hair care composition, particularly a shampoo composition, which comprises
  • microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water, and
  • At least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin.
  • personal care composition and “hair care composition” are used in respective broadest sense.
  • personal care composition is intended to a product or composition suitable for topical application on mammalian skin, hair or other keratinous tissues.
  • hair care composition is intended to a product or composition suitable for topical application on mammalian hair, including, but are not limited to shampoo, conditioner and hair mask.
  • microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides is also referred to as “microemulsion” for abbreviation.
  • the expression “substantially free of silicone” within the context of the microemulsion is intended to mean silicone is at the very minimum and not deliberately introduced or added, and preferably is not present at an analytically detectable level.
  • silicone may be present, if at all, at a level of less than 3%, or less than 1%, less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.1%, by weight of the total amount of the microemulsion.
  • any percentage given for a component of a composition is calculated in reference to the active ingredient thereof with exclusion of impurities which may be present in commercially available sources of such components (for example, residual solvents or by-products) , based on the weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. Also, all ratios are by weight, unless specified otherwise.
  • the present invention provides use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions, particularly hair care compositions, more particularly shampoo compositions, for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
  • a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions, particularly hair care compositions, more particularly shampoo compositions, for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
  • microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides also referred as APG-based microemulsion herein, is known from for example US20100311627A1 and WO 2006045510A1.
  • the microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides is substantially free of silicone, particularly free of silicone.
  • the microemulsion comprises
  • alkyl (oligo) glycosides is used synonymously to alkyl (poly) glycosides and is also referred to by the abbreviation “APG” .
  • the alkyl (oligo) glycosides may comprise alkyl (oligo) glycosides represented by the formula of R 1 -O- [G] p -H (I) ,
  • R 1 is a C 4-22 -alkyl, preferably C 8-16 -alkyl
  • G is a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number in the range of from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl (oligo) glycosides are useful as a sugar surfactant in the microemulsion, and may be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms.
  • G represents a sugar residue selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose residues, preferably glucose, xylose and arabinose residues, particularly glucose residue.
  • the index number p in the formula (I) indicates the average degree of oligomerization (DP) , i.e., the distribution of mono-and oligoglycosides, and is generally a decimal number in the range of from 1 to10, for example from 1 to 6.
  • DP average degree of oligomerization
  • the APG may be present in the microemulsion in an amount of 4%to 30%by weight, preferably 5 to 25%by weight, more preferably 10%to 20%by weight, based on the total amount of the microemulsion.
  • Suitable alkyl glucoside surfactants include, but not limited to, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside or a mixture thereof.
  • the microemulsion comprises an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, which is preferably selected from partial esters, in particular monoesters of glycerol. Preference is given to monoesters of glycerol with unsaturated linear fatty acids, more preferably monoesters of glycerol with an unsaturated C 14-18 -fatty acid, still more preferably monoesters of glycerol with an unsaturated C 16-18 -fatty acid for example glycerol monooleate.
  • the ester of glycerol may be present in the microemulsion in an amount from 1%to 25%by weight, preferably 4%to 20%by weight, more preferably 5%to 15%by weight based on the total weight of the microemulsion.
  • the non-silicone oil i.e. an organic oil phase
  • fats and/or waxes may also be used, alone or in a mixture with the oils specified in the previous paragraph.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e., solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids.
  • Suitable waxes are, inter alia, natural waxes, such as e.g.
  • the non-silicone oil is selected from ester oils such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, di-n-octyl carbonate (dicaprylyl carbonate) , myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, cety
  • the non-silicone oil may be present in the microemulsion in an amount of 5%to 30%by weight, preferably 10%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 30%by weight, 15%to 25%by weight, based on the total weight of the microemulsion.
  • water is preferably demineralized or deionized.
  • Water may be present in the microemulsion in an amount of up to 80%by weight of water, preferably 40%to 80%by weight, more preferably 45%to 60%by weight, particularly 45%to 55%. It will be understood that water includes not only the part being added separately, but also the part originating from the other components which are available or applied in a water-containing form.
  • the microemulsion comprises or consists of
  • the microemulsion comprises or consists of
  • the microemulsion comprises or consists of
  • microemulsion comprises or consists of
  • microemulsions may be produced simply by mixing the oil body with oil-soluble ingredients to provide an oil phase, heating the oil phase above the melting point of all constituents and subsequently adding the aqueous surfactant-containing phase. The thermodynamically stable microemulsion is then formed spontaneously, if necessary, with stirring.
  • conditioning agents useful for personal care compositions maybe mentioned for the purpose of the present invention.
  • the present invention relates to use of the microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides as described herein for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones and fatty esters in personal care compositions.
  • Suitable conditioning agents for the present invention may be silicone compounds, and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside-and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds.
  • the silicone compounds may be present either in liquid form or in resin form at room temperature.
  • Suitable silicone oils include volatile cyclic and linear silicones as well as non-volatile silicones, for example dialkyl siloxanes and alkyl aryl siloxanes, linear polydialkylsiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes and methylphenylpolysiloxanes, as well as alkoxylated and/or aminated derivatives thereof, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes, cyclic silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • volatile cyclic and linear silicones as well as non-volatile silicones, for example dialkyl siloxanes and alkyl aryl siloxanes, linear polydialkylsiloxanes such as dimethylpolysi
  • Particularly suitable silicone compounds may include for example linear or branched non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising C 2-24 -alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain; phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. Hydroxyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA) may also be mentioned.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicone compounds for the present invention include cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, methicone, simethicone, polysilicone-15, or a combination thereof.
  • Suitable silicone compounds are available commercially, for example from Shin-Etsu under the DM-Fluid series, from Momentive Performance Materials Inc. under the series, and from Dow Corning Corporation under Xiameter series such as PMX-200 Silicone Fluids, and Xiameter MEM 1785 Emulsion.
  • Suitable fatty esters as the conditioning agent are well-known, which may be selected from non-volatile esters having a hydrocarbyl chain derived from a fatty acid or a fatty alcohol (e.g., mono-esters, polyhydric alcohol esters, and di-and tri-carboxylic acid esters, di-carbonates) .
  • the hydrocarbyl of the esters may include or have covalently bonded thereto other compatible functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties (e.g., ethoxy or ether linkages, etc. ) .
  • fatty esters derived from C 12-22 -fatty acids such as isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate and decyl stearate; fatty esters derived from C 10-22 -fatty alcohols, such as lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate, oleyl adipate, di-n-octyl carbonates (dicaprylyl carbonates) ; and fatty esters derived from Guerbet fatty alcohols (i.e., 2-
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C 36 and especially from C 18 to C 36 , these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic tryglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camel
  • phytostearyl esters such as
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin include shea butter, commercially available from BASF under the tradename of SB 45, Argania Spinosa Kernel oil, commercially available from BASF under the tradename of Argan LS 9779 and vegetable oil, commercially available from BASF under the tradename of PS6.
  • the microemulsion is particulary useful for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from fatty esters derived from C 12-22 -fatty acids; fatty esters derived from C 10-22 -fatty alcohols, such as lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate, oleyl adipate, di-n-octyl carbonates (dicaprylyl carbonates) ; and fatty esters derived from Guerbet fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms such as octyldodecyl myristate selected from cinnamates such as Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and triazine derivatives such as Ethylhexyl Triazone in personal care compositions.
  • the preferred amount of the microemulsion effective for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent in the personal care composition is for example in the range of 0.5%to 10%by weight, particularly 0.5%to 8%by weight, more particularly 1%to 5%by weight, based on the total weight of the personal care composition.
  • the personal care composition generally comprises a main surfactant component as well-known in the art.
  • the surfactant component may include at least one of anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.
  • the surfactant component includes an anionic surfactant and at least one of nonionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.
  • surfactant component described herein is not intended to include any surfactants which are present in the microemulsion or which are present in the application form of the conditioning agents.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, acyl taurates, acyl isothionates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, in particular respective alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or alkanolamine salts.
  • alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may have between 1 to 10 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units, preferably 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units, in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate, or any combinations thereof.
  • the alkyl sulfates and/or alkyl ether sulfates may be particularly mentioned as the anionic surfactant in the personal care composition.
  • the personal care composition may comprise one or more anionic surfactants in an amount of 1%to 45%by weight, preferably 5%to 40%by weight, more preferably 10%to 40%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, reaction products of aliphatic C 10-22 -alcohols or C 6- 20 -alkyl phenols with 6 to 60 mols of an alkylene oxide such as ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide per mole of the alcohol or phenols.
  • alkylamine oxides fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols, ethoxylated fatty acid amides, alkyl polyglycosides, sorbitan ether esters, or mono-or dialkylalkanolamides, particularly mono-or dialkylalkanolamides.
  • the personal care composition may comprise one or more nonionic surfactants in an amount of 0.01%to 30%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 10%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds include, but are not limited to alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-87.
  • ester quats include, but are not limited to quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1, 2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • the personal care composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants in an amount of 0%to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.01%to 1%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are, for example, alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylsulfobetaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates or propionates, alkyl amphodiacetates or dipropionates.
  • amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine or sodium cocamphopropionate.
  • the personal care composition may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in an amount of 0.1%to 20%by weight, preferably 3%to 10%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • the personal care composition may further comprise a cationic polymer.
  • the personal care composition comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are for example homopolymers or copolymers of ester or amide derivatives of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid (e.g.
  • DMAC diallyl
  • the personal care composition may comprise one or more cationic polymer in an amount of 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 2%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • the personal care composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more benefit agents that can provide a positive and/or beneficial effect to the substrate being treated, e.g., to the hair and skin.
  • benefit agents that can provide a positive and/or beneficial effect to the substrate being treated, e.g., to the hair and skin.
  • the skilled person is able to select according to general knowledge in the art of formulating personal care compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and liquid hand soaps, and the vast literature there-related, appropriate such optional ingredients for application purposes.
  • the personal care composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more benefit agents, such as emollients, moisturizers, conditioners such as skin conditioners or hair conditioners other than those conditioning agents described hereinabove; vitamins or their derivatives, such as vitamin B complex, including thiamine, nicotinic acid, niacin, biotin, pantothenic acid, choline, riboflavin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, pyridoxine, inositol, carnitine, vitamins A, C, D, E, K and their derivatives, such as vitamin A palmitate, and pro-vitamins, e.g., panthenol (pro vitamin B5) , panthenol triacetate and mixtures thereof; antioxidants; free-radical scavengers; abrasives, natural or synthetic; dyes; hair coloring agents; bleaching agents; hair bleaching agents; antimicrobial agents; antibacterial agents, such as bacitracin, erythromycin,
  • benefit agents
  • vitamin A analogs such as esters of vitamin A, including vitamin A palmitate, retinoids, retinols, and retinoic acid, corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, clobetasone, butyrate, clobetasol propionate; antiperspirants or deodorants, such as aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates; immunomodulators; nourishing agents; depilating agents, such as calcium thioglycolate, magnesium thioglycolate, potassium thioglycolate, strontium thioglycolate; agents for combating hair loss; reducing agents for permanent-waving; reflectants, such as mica, alumina, calcium silicate, glycol dioleate, glycol distearate, silica, sodium magnesium fluorosilicate; essential oils and fragrances.
  • vitamin A analogs such as esters of vitamin A, including vitamin A palmitate, retinoids, retinols, and retinoic
  • the personal care composition will also comprise water in addition to the water as comprised in the microemulsion and possibly in the conditioning agent and any optional other active ingredients or additives.
  • the microemulsion is effective to increase the deposition amount of the conditioning agent on hair by at least 10%, even by higher than 150%in some cases, and more even by several times, compared with corresponding deposition in the absence of the microemulsion.
  • a decrease in usage of those active ingredients in personal care compositions can be expected.
  • the reduction in the dosages of conditioning agents in personal care compositions is advantageous as the negative or harmful effects of those ingredients can be mitigated.
  • the present invention relates to a method of improving deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair and/or skin, which comprises applying to hair and/or skin a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides and a conditioning agent.
  • a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides and a conditioning agent.
  • the present invention relates to a personal care composition, particularly a hair care composition, which comprises
  • microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
  • the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  • the silicone conditioning agent may be present in the personal care composition such as hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight, more preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • the personal care composition such as hair care composition may comprise
  • microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water.
  • the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  • the silicone conditioning agent may be present in the personal care composition such as hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • the hair care composition may comprise
  • a microemulsion comprising or consisting of (i) 4%to 30%by weight, preferably 5%to 25%by weight, more preferably 10%to 20%by weight of C 4-22 -alkyl (oligo) glycosides, preferably C 8-16 -alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) 4%to 20%by weight, preferably 5%to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, preferably an ester of glycerol with an unsaturated C 14-18 -linear fatty acid, (iii) 10%to 30%by weight, preferably 15%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 25%by weight of ether oil, preferably dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) , and (iv) 40%to 80%by weight, preferably 45%to 60%by weight, 45%to 55%by weight of water.
  • the silicone conditioning agent is present in the hair care composition in an amount of
  • the hair care composition may comprise
  • microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water, and
  • At least one conditioning agent selected from fatty esters selected from fatty esters.
  • the silicone conditioning agent is present in the hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight, more preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • the hair care composition may comprise
  • microemulsion comprising or consisting of (i) 4%to 30%by weight, preferably 5%to 25%by weight, more preferably 10%to 20%by weight of C 4-22 -alkyl (oligo) glycosides, preferably C 8-16 -alkyl (oligo) glycosides, more preferably decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside or their mixtures, (ii) 4%to 20%by weight, preferably 5%to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, preferably an ester of glycerol with an unsaturated C 14- 18 -linear fatty acid, (iii) 10%to 30%by weight, preferably 15%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 25%by weight of ether oil, preferably dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) , and (iv) 40%to 80%by weight, preferably 45%to 60%by
  • At least one conditioning agent selected from fatty esters selected from fatty esters.
  • the silicone conditioning agent is present in the hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight , more preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • the hair care composition may be any hair treatment products, particularly a shampoo composition.
  • the at least one surfactant, the conditioning agent and the microemulsion are those as described hereinabove for the first aspect of the present invention.
  • the personal care composition may further comprise one or more benefit agents as described hereinabove for the first aspect of the present invention.
  • the personal care composition will comprise water in addition to the water as comprised in the microemulsion and possibly in the conditioning agent and any optional other active ingredients or additives.
  • the personal care composition, particularly hair care composition may comprise
  • the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer in an amount of 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 2%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • the hair care composition may comprise
  • a microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid, preferably an ester of glycerol with an unsaturated C 14- 18 -linear fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, preferably ether oil, more preferably dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) , and (iv) water, and
  • the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer in an amount of 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 2%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  • a method of improving deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair and/or skin which comprises applying to hair and/or skin a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides and a conditioning agent.
  • microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
  • microemulsion comprises or consists of
  • microemulsion comprises (i) 5% to 25%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
  • microemulsion comprises 10% to 20%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
  • microemulsion comprises (ii) 4%to 20%by weight an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12- 22 -fatty acid.
  • microemulsion comprises (ii) 5% to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C 12-22 -fatty acid.
  • microemulsion comprises (iii) 10%to 30%by weight of a non-silicone oil.
  • microemulsion comprises (iii) 15%to 30%by weight of a non-silicone oil.
  • microemulsion comprises (iii) 15%to 25%by weight of a non-silicone oil.
  • microemulsion comprises (iv) 40%to 80%by weight of water.
  • microemulsion comprises (iv) 45%to 60%by weight of water.
  • R 1 is a C 4-22 -alkyl, preferably C 8-16 -alkyl
  • G is a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number in the range of from 1 to 10.
  • the sugar residue is selected from the group consisting of glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose residues, preferably glucose, xylose and arabinose residues, particulary glucose residue.
  • silicones are selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile cyclic and linear silicones, preferably from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, methicone, simethicone, polysilicone-15 and any combinations thereof.
  • fatty esters are selected from the group consisting of fatty esters derived from C 12-22 -fatty acids, fatty esters derived from C 10-22 -fatty alcohols, and fatty esters derived from Guerbet fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Embodiment 23 The method or use according to Embodiment 22, wherein the microemulsion is used in an amount from 1%to 5%by weight.
  • a personal care composition particularly a hair care composition, which comprises
  • microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides as defined in any of Embodiments 1 to 17.
  • the personal care composition according to Embodiment 24 which further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  • silicone conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile cyclic and linear silicones, preferably from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, methicone, simethicone, polysilicone-15 , and any combinations thereof.
  • composition according to any of Embodiments 24 to 33, wherein the at least one surfactant is selected from anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • test shampoos are shown in Tables 1 to 4 below, and the microemulsion as used is Micro commercially available from BASF which has the following composition:
  • the deposition amount of silicone on hair treated with the shampoo C1 free of the microemulsion is 23.3 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of silicone on hair treated with the shampoo E1 containing the microemulsion is increased to 130.2 mg/kg.
  • the deposition of silicone is increased by about 4.6 times by means of the microemulsion.
  • the deposition amount of Octyldodecyl Myristate on hair treated with the shampoo C2 free of the microemulsion is 5.9 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Octyldodecyl Myristate on hair treated with the shampoo E1 containing the microemulsion is increased to 17.2 mg/kg.
  • the deposition of Octyldodecyl Myristate is increased by about 1.9 times by means of the microemulsion.
  • the deposition amount of Dicaprylyl Carbonate on hair treated with the shampoo C3 free of the microemulsion is 186.8 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Dicaprylyl Carbonate on hair treated with the shampoo E3 containing the microemulsion is increased to 239.8 mg/kg.
  • the deposition of Dicaprylyl Carbonate is increased by about 28%by means of the microemulsion.
  • the deposition amount of Shea butter (Cetiol SB 45) on hair treated with the shampoo C4 free of the microemulsion is 74.0 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Shea butter on hair treated with the shampoo E4 containing the microemulsion is increased to 98.0 mg/kg.
  • the deposition of conditioning agent is increased by about 32%by means of the microemulsion.
  • the deposition amount of Kernel oil (Lipofructyl Argan LS 9779) on hair treated with the shampoo C5 free of the microemulsion is 48.0 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Shea butter on hair treated with the shampoo E5 containing the microemulsion is increased to 60.0 mg/kg.
  • the deposition of conditioning agent is increased by about 25%by means of the microemulsion.
  • the deposition amount of Vegetable oil (Cegesoft PS 6) ) on hair treated with the shampoo C6 free of the microemulsion is 109.0 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Shea butter on hair treated with the shampoo E6 containing the microemulsion is increased to 155.0 mg/kg.
  • the deposition of conditioning agent is increased by about 42%by means of the microemulsion.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of improving deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair and/or skin, which comprises applying to hair and/or skin a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo)glycosides and a conditioning agent, and to a personal care composition, particularly a hair care composition, which comprises at least one surfactant, a silicone conditioning agent, and a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo)glycosides.

Description

USE OF APG-BASED MICROEMULSION IN PERSONAL CARE COMPOSITIONS Technical Field
The invention relates to use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides (APG) in personal care compositions, and also personal care compositions, especially hair care compositions, comprising the microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides (APG) .
Background
Personal care compositions, for example hair care compositions, generally comprise active ingredients in addition to the surfactants. Conditioning agent is an active ingredient commonly used in personal care compositions to improve the feel, texture, appearance of skin or hair. The conditioning agent generally includes natural and synthetic emollients, humectants and occlusive agents. Substances suitable as the conditioning agent are well-known, for example silicones, oils or waxes. Among silicone compounds widely used in cosmetic and personal care formulations, most commonly used are cyclomethicones, phenyl trimethicone, and dimethicones. In the personal care formulations, in particular in hair care formulations such as conditioners, silicone compounds may provide various benefits such as reduction of wet combing force and increasing shine of hair. Particularly, silicone compounds can provide the aforementioned benefits without contributing to oiliness or greasiness, which is highly desired in personal care formulations such as shampoo and hair conditioning formulation. However, the use of silicone compounds in personal care formulations comes with drawbacks. For example, silicone compounds are not biodegradable and not eco-friendly for being used in personal care formulations, and some publications have indicated already that silicone compounds, for instance dimethicones, are suspected to be environmental toxins and biocumulative.
Some materials have been proposed as substitutes for silicones. For example, US20100311627A1 describes a microemulsion as a conditioning agent in shampoo compositions. The microemulsion was proved effective to improve the combability of the hair, as described in that patent application. However, it has been found that silicone-free shampoo compositions could not provide satisfactory feel and appearance of hair for certain people, particularly for Asian with stiff and thick hair.
It is challenging to reduce dosage amounts of the active ingredients such as the conditioning agent in personal care compositions so as to mitigate the negative or harmful effects thereof, as a dosage reduction is expected to result in an adverse influence on the intended effects of those active ingredients.
Summary of Invention
It is an object of the present invention to provide personal care compositions comprising less dosage amounts of those active ingredients such as conditioning agent than conventional formulations, without resulting in an adverse influence on the intended effects of those active ingredients.
It was found by the inventors that the object can be achieved by a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides, which can significantly improve the deposition of the conditioning agent on hair, and thus a less usage of those active ingredients in personal care compositions is possible.
Accordingly, in the first aspect, the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
In some embodiments according to the first aspect, the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion comprising
(i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
(ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
(iii) a non-silicone oil, and
(iv) water,
in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
In some other embodiments according to the first aspect, the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones and fatty esters, onto hair or skin.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care composition for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones, fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin onto hair or skin.
In some further embodiments according to the first aspect, the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion comprising
(i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
(ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
(iii) a non-silicone oil, and
(iv) water,
in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones and fatty esters onto hair or skin.
In some further embodiments according to the first aspect, the present invention relates to use of a microemulsion comprising
(i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
(ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
(iii) a non-silicone oil, and
(iv) water,
in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones, fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin onto hair or skin.
In the second aspect, the present invention relates to a method of improving deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair and/or skin, which comprises applying to hair and/or skin a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides and a conditioning agent.
In the third aspect, the present invention relates to a personal care composition, particularly a hair care composition, which comprises
- at least one surfactant,
- a silicone conditioning agent, and
- a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
Preferably, the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
In some embodiments according to the third aspect, the present invention relates to a hair care composition, particularly a shampoo composition, which comprises
- at least one surfactant,
- at least one cationic polymer,
- a silicone conditioning agent, and
- a microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water.
In some further embodiments according to the third aspect, the present invention relates to a hair care composition, particularly a shampoo composition, which comprises
- at least one surfactant,
- at least one cationic polymer,
- a silicone conditioning agent,
- a microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water, and
- at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of fatty esters..
In some further embodiments according to the third aspect, the present invention relates to a hair care composition, particularly a shampoo composition, which comprises
- at least one surfactant,
- at least one cationic polymer,
- a silicone conditioning agent,
- a microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water, and
- at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin.
Detailed Description
The singular forms “a” , “an” and “the” include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The terms “comprise (s) ” , “comprising” , etc. are used interchangeably with “contain (s) ” , “containing” , etc. and are to be interpreted in a non-limiting, open manner. That is, e.g., further components or elements can be present. The expressions “consist (s) of” or “consisting of” or cognates can be embraced within “comprise (s) ” or “comprising” or cognates. The terms “include (s) ” , “including” , etc. are to be interpreted in a non-limiting, open manner.
Herein, the terms “personal care composition” and “hair care composition” are used in respective broadest sense. The term “personal care composition” is intended to a product or composition suitable for topical application on mammalian skin, hair or other keratinous tissues. The term “hair care composition” is intended to a product or composition suitable for topical application on mammalian hair, including, but are not limited to shampoo, conditioner and hair mask.
Herein, the term “microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides” is also referred to as “microemulsion” for abbreviation.
Herein, the expression “substantially free of silicone” within the context of the microemulsion is intended to mean silicone is at the very minimum and not deliberately introduced or added, and preferably is not present at an analytically detectable level. For example, silicone may be present, if at all, at a level of less than 3%, or less than 1%, less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.1%, by weight of the total amount of the microemulsion.
Herein, any percentage given for a component of a composition is calculated in reference to the active ingredient thereof with exclusion of impurities which may be present in commercially available sources of such components (for example, residual solvents or by-products) , based on the weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. Also, all ratios are by weight, unless specified otherwise.
In the first aspect, the present invention provides use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions, particularly hair care compositions, more particularly shampoo compositions, for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
Microemulsion
The microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides (APG) , also referred as APG-based microemulsion herein, is known from for example US20100311627A1 and WO 2006045510A1. For the purpose to the present invention, the microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides is substantially free of silicone, particularly free of silicone.
In some embodiments according to the first aspect, the microemulsion comprises
(i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
(ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
(iii) a non-silicone oil, and
(iv) water.
Herein, the term “alkyl (oligo) glycosides” is used synonymously to alkyl (poly) glycosides and is also referred to by the abbreviation “APG” . The alkyl (oligo) glycosides may comprise alkyl (oligo) glycosides represented by the formula of
R1-O- [G] p-H    (I) ,
in which
R1 is a C4-22-alkyl, preferably C8-16-alkyl,
G is a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and
p is a number in the range of from 1 to 10.
The alkyl (oligo) glycosides are useful as a sugar surfactant in the microemulsion, and may be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms. For example, G represents a sugar residue selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose residues, preferably glucose, xylose and arabinose residues, particularly glucose residue. The index number p in the formula (I) indicates the average degree of oligomerization (DP) , i.e., the distribution of mono-and oligoglycosides, and is generally a decimal number in the range of from 1 to10, for example from 1 to 6. Preference is given to alkyl (oligo) glycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p in the range of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl (oligo) glycosides with an average degree of oligomerization of less than 1.7, particularly in the range of from 1.2 to 1.4. The APG may be present in the microemulsion in an amount of 4%to 30%by weight, preferably 5 to 25%by weight, more preferably 10%to 20%by weight, based on the total amount of the microemulsion. Suitable alkyl glucoside surfactants include, but not limited to, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside or a mixture thereof.
The microemulsion comprises an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, which is preferably selected from partial esters, in particular monoesters of glycerol. Preference is given to monoesters of glycerol with unsaturated linear fatty acids, more preferably monoesters of glycerol with an unsaturated C14-18-fatty acid, still more preferably monoesters of glycerol with an unsaturated C16-18-fatty acid for example glycerol monooleate. The ester of glycerol may be present in the microemulsion in an amount from 1%to 25%by weight, preferably 4%to 20%by weight, more preferably 5%to 15%by weight based on the total weight of the microemulsion.
The non-silicone oil, i.e. an organic oil phase, may be selected from the group consisting of Guerbet alcohols based on C6-20-fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-22-fatty acids with linear or branched C6-22-fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-13-carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-22-fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-22-fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of C6-22-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, triglycerides based on C6-10-fatty acids, esters of C2-12-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched C1-22-alcohols or C2-10-polyols having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-22-fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C6-22-alcohols, linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers  having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, aliphatic and/or naphthenic hydrocarbons, and dialkylcyclohexanes.
As the non-silicone oil, fats and/or waxes may also be used, alone or in a mixture with the oils specified in the previous paragraph. Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e., solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Suitable waxes are, inter alia, natural waxes, such as e.g. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax) , uropygial grease, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax) , petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) , such as e.g. montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, and also synthetic waxes, such as e.g. polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. Tocopherols and essential oils are likewise suitable.
Preferably, the non-silicone oil is selected from ester oils such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, di-n-octyl carbonate (dicaprylyl carbonate) , myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate, dioctyl malate, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol, ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) , or mixtures thereof. For the purpose of the present invention, preference is given to ether oils (e.g., dicaprylyl ether) .
The non-silicone oil may be present in the microemulsion in an amount of 5%to 30%by weight, preferably 10%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 30%by weight, 15%to 25%by weight, based on the total weight of the microemulsion.
For the microemulsion, water is preferably demineralized or deionized. Water may be present in the microemulsion in an amount of up to 80%by weight of water, preferably 40%to 80%by weight, more preferably 45%to 60%by weight, particularly 45%to 55%. It will be understood that water includes not only the part being added separately, but also the part originating from the other components which are available or applied in a water-containing form.
Preferably, the microemulsion comprises or consists of
(i) 4%to 30%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
(ii) 1%to 25%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
(iii) 5%to 30%by weight of a non-silicone oil, and
(iv) up to 80%by weight of water,
based on the total amount of the microemulsion.
More preferably, the microemulsion comprises or consists of
(i) 5%to 25%by weight, preferably 10%to 20%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides, preferably C4-22-alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
(ii) 4%to 20%by weight, preferably 5%to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
(iii) 10%to 30%by weight, preferably 15%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 25%by weight of a non-silicone oil, and
(iv) 40%to 80%by weight, preferably 45%to 60%by weight, more preferably 45%to 55%by weight of water,
based on the total amount of the microemulsion.
Still more preferably, the microemulsion comprises or consists of
(i) 5%to 25%by weight, preferably 10%to 20%by weight of C4-22-alkyl (oligo) glycosides, preferably C8-16-alkyl (oligo) glycosides, more preferably the alkyl (oligo) glycoside selected from decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside or a mixture thereof,
(ii) 4%to 20%by weight, preferably 5%to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, preferably an ester of glycerol with an unsaturated C14-18-linear fatty acid,
(iii) 10%to 30%by weight, preferably 15%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 25%by weight of an ether oil, preferably dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) ,
(iv) 40%to 80%by weight, preferably 45%to 60%by weight, more preferably 45%to 55%by weight of water,
based on the total amount of the microemulsion.
Particularly, the microemulsion comprises or consists of
(i) 5%to 25%by weight, preferably 10%to 20%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides selected from decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside or a mixture thereof,
(ii) 4%to 20%by weight, preferably 5%to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with an unsaturated C14-18-linear fatty acid,
(iii) 10%to 30%by weight, preferably 15%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 25%by weight of dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) ,
(iv) 40%to 80%by weight, preferably 45%to 60%by weight, more preferably 45%to 55%by weight of water,
based on the total amount of the microemulsion.
The microemulsions may be produced simply by mixing the oil body with oil-soluble ingredients to provide an oil phase, heating the oil phase above the melting point of all constituents and subsequently adding the aqueous surfactant-containing phase. The thermodynamically stable microemulsion is then formed spontaneously, if necessary, with stirring.
Any known conditioning agents useful for personal care compositions maybe mentioned for the purpose of the present invention.
In some embodiments, the present invention relates to use of the microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides as described herein for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicones and fatty esters in personal care compositions.
Conditioning Agent
Suitable conditioning agents for the present invention, in particular for conditioning hair, may be silicone compounds, and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside-and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds. The silicone compounds may be present either in liquid form or in resin form at room temperature. Suitable silicone oils include volatile cyclic and linear silicones as well as non-volatile silicones, for example dialkyl siloxanes and alkyl aryl siloxanes, linear polydialkylsiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes and methylphenylpolysiloxanes, as well as alkoxylated and/or aminated derivatives thereof, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes, cyclic silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
Particularly suitable silicone compounds may include for example linear or branched non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising C2-24-alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain; phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. Hydroxyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA) may also be mentioned.
Preferable silicone compounds for the present invention include cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, methicone, simethicone, polysilicone-15, or a combination thereof.
Suitable silicone compounds are available commercially, for example from Shin-Etsu under the DM-Fluid series, from Momentive Performance Materials Inc. under theseries, and from Dow Corning Corporation under Xiameter series such as PMX-200 Silicone Fluids, and Xiameter MEM 1785 Emulsion.
Suitable fatty esters as the conditioning agent are well-known, which may be selected from non-volatile esters having a hydrocarbyl chain derived from a fatty acid or a fatty alcohol (e.g., mono-esters, polyhydric alcohol esters, and di-and tri-carboxylic acid esters, di-carbonates) . The hydrocarbyl of the esters may include or have covalently bonded thereto other compatible functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties (e.g., ethoxy or ether linkages, etc. ) .
Preference is given to fatty esters derived from C12-22-fatty acids, such as isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate and decyl stearate; fatty esters derived from C10-22-fatty alcohols, such as lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, oleyl adipate, di-n-octyl carbonates (dicaprylyl  carbonates) ; and fatty esters derived from Guerbet fatty alcohols (i.e., 2-alkyl fatty alcohols) having 12 to 24 carbon atoms such as octyldodecyl myristate. Other suitable fatty esters are those as described in the Personal Care Product Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition, 2010, under the functional category of “Esters” .
Another preferred conditioning agents suitable for the present invention is hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36 and especially from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic tryglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixture thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides. In particular, the most preferred hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin include shea butter, commercially available from BASF under the tradename ofSB 45, Argania Spinosa Kernel oil, commercially available from BASF under the tradename ofArgan LS 9779 and vegetable oil, commercially available from BASF under the tradename ofPS6.
The microemulsion is particulary useful for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent selected from fatty esters derived from C12-22-fatty acids; fatty esters derived from C10-22-fatty alcohols, such as lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, oleyl adipate, di-n-octyl carbonates (dicaprylyl carbonates) ; and fatty esters derived from Guerbet fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms such as octyldodecyl myristate selected from cinnamates such as Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and triazine derivatives such as Ethylhexyl Triazone in personal care compositions.
The preferred amount of the microemulsion effective for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent in the personal care composition is for example in the range of 0.5%to 10%by weight, particularly 0.5%to 8%by weight, more particularly 1%to 5%by weight, based on the total weight of the personal care composition.
Personal Care Composition
The personal care composition generally comprises a main surfactant component as well-known in the art. The surfactant component may include at least one of anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants. Particularly, the surfactant component includes an anionic surfactant and at least one of nonionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.
It will be understood that the surfactant component described herein is not intended to include any surfactants which are present in the microemulsion or which are present in the application form of the conditioning agents.
Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, acyl taurates, acyl isothionates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, in particular respective alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or alkanolamine salts. The alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may have between 1 to 10 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units, preferably 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units, in the molecule. Examples of the anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate, or any combinations thereof. The alkyl sulfates and/or alkyl ether sulfates may be particularly mentioned as the anionic surfactant in the personal care composition.
The personal care composition may comprise one or more anionic surfactants in an amount of 1%to 45%by weight, preferably 5%to 40%by weight, more preferably 10%to 40%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, reaction products of aliphatic C10-22-alcohols or C6- 20-alkyl phenols with 6 to 60 mols of an alkylene oxide such as ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide per mole of the alcohol or phenols. Also suitable are alkylamine oxides, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols, ethoxylated fatty acid amides, alkyl polyglycosides, sorbitan ether esters, or mono-or dialkylalkanolamides, particularly mono-or dialkylalkanolamides.
The personal care composition may comprise one or more nonionic surfactants in an amount of 0.01%to 30%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 10%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Suitable cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Examples of quaternary ammonium compounds include, but are not limited to alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-87. The alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples of ester quats include, but are not limited to quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1, 2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
The personal care composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants in an amount of 0%to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.01%to 1%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are, for example, alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylsulfobetaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates or propionates, alkyl amphodiacetates or dipropionates. Examples of the amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine or sodium cocamphopropionate.
The personal care composition may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in an amount of 0.1%to 20%by weight, preferably 3%to 10%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
The personal care composition may further comprise a cationic polymer. Preferably, the personal care composition comprises at least one cationic polymer. Suitable cationic polymers are for example homopolymers or copolymers of ester or amide derivatives of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid (e.g. INCI: Polyquaternium-7) , homopolymers of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) , quaternary copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Polyquaternium-4) , polymeric quaternized ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose which have been modified with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide (INCI: Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-67) , depolymerized guar gum derivatives which have been quaternized (INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride) , amphoteric copolymers (INCI: Polyquaternium-74) , quaternized guar derivatives, and homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride (DADMAC) (INCI: Polyquaternium-6) .
The personal care composition may comprise one or more cationic polymer in an amount of 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 2%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
The personal care composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more benefit agents that can provide a positive and/or beneficial effect to the substrate being treated, e.g., to the hair and skin. The skilled person is able to select according to general knowledge in the art of formulating personal care compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and liquid hand soaps, and the vast literature there-related, appropriate such optional ingredients for application purposes. In some embodiments, the personal care composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more benefit agents, such as emollients, moisturizers, conditioners such as skin conditioners or hair conditioners other than those conditioning agents described hereinabove; vitamins or their derivatives, such as vitamin B complex, including thiamine, nicotinic acid, niacin, biotin, pantothenic acid, choline, riboflavin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, pyridoxine, inositol, carnitine, vitamins A, C, D, E, K and their derivatives, such as vitamin A palmitate, and pro-vitamins, e.g., panthenol (pro vitamin B5) , panthenol triacetate and mixtures thereof; antioxidants; free-radical scavengers; abrasives, natural or synthetic; dyes; hair coloring agents; bleaching agents; hair bleaching agents; antimicrobial agents; antibacterial agents, such as bacitracin, erythromycin, triclosan, neomycin, tetracycline, chlortetracycline, benzethonium  chloride, phenol, parachlorometa xylenol (PCMX) , triclocarban (TCC) , chlorhexidine gluconate (CHG) , zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide; antifungal agents; melanin regulators; tanning accelerators; depigmenting agents, such as retinoids such as retinol, kojic acid and its derivatives such as kojic dipalmitate, hydroquinone and its derivatives such as arbutin, transexamic acid, vitamins such as niacin, vitamin C and its derivatives, azelaic acid, placertia, licorice, extracts from plants such as chamomile and green tea, where retinol, kojic acid and hydroquinone are preferred; skin lightening agents such as hydroquinone, catechol and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; skin coloring agents, such as dihydroxyacetone; liporegulators; weight-reduction agents; anti-acne agents; anti-seborrhoeic agents; anti-ageing agents; anti-wrinkle agents; keratolytic agents; anti-inflammatory agents; anti-acne agents, such as tretinoin, isotretinoin, motretinide, adapalene, tazarotene, azelaic acid, retinol, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, resorcinol, antibiotics such as tetracycline and isomers thereof, erythromycin, anti-inflammatory agents such as ibuprofen, naproxen, hetprofen, botanical extracts such as alnus, arnica, artemisia capillaris, asiasarum root, calendula, chamomile, nidium, comfrey, fennel, galla rhois, hawthorn, houttuynia, hypericum, jujube, kiwi, licorice, magnolia, olive, peppermint, philodendron, salvia, sasa albomarginata, imidazoles such as ketoconazole and elubiol; refreshing agents; cicatrizing agents; vascular-protection agents; agents for the reduction of dandruff (Anti-dandruff agent) , seborrheic dermatitis, or psoriasis, such as pyrithione salts, being formed from heavy metals such as zinc, tin, cadmium, magnesium aluminum, sodium and zirconium, like zinc pyrithione, shale oil and derivatives thereof such as sulfonated shale oil, selenium sulfide, sulfur, salicylic acid, coal tar, povidone-iodine, imidazoles such as ketoconazole, dichlorophenyl imidazolodioxalan, clotrimazole, itraconazole, miconazole, climbazole, tioconazole, sulconazole, butoconazole, fluconazole, miconazolenitrite and any possible stereo isomers and derivatives thereof such as anthralin, piroctone olamine (Octopirox) , selenium sulfide, ciclopirox olamine, anti-psoriasis agents such as vitamin D analogs, e.g. calcipotriol, calcitriol, and tacaleitrol, vitamin A analogs such as esters of vitamin A, including vitamin A palmitate, retinoids, retinols, and retinoic acid, corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, clobetasone, butyrate, clobetasol propionate; antiperspirants or deodorants, such as aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates; immunomodulators; nourishing agents; depilating agents, such as calcium thioglycolate, magnesium thioglycolate, potassium thioglycolate, strontium thioglycolate; agents for combating hair loss; reducing agents for permanent-waving; reflectants, such as mica, alumina, calcium silicate, glycol dioleate, glycol distearate, silica, sodium magnesium fluorosilicate; essential oils and fragrances.
It will be understood that the personal care composition will also comprise water in addition to the water as comprised in the microemulsion and possibly in the conditioning agent and any optional other active ingredients or additives.
It has been found by the inventors that the microemulsion is effective to increase the deposition amount of the conditioning agent on hair by at least 10%, even by higher than 150%in some cases, and more even by several times, compared with corresponding deposition in the absence of the microemulsion. A decrease in usage of those active ingredients in personal care compositions can be expected. The reduction in the dosages of conditioning agents in personal care compositions is advantageous as the negative or harmful effects of those ingredients can be mitigated.
In the second aspect, the present invention relates to a method of improving deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair and/or skin, which comprises applying to hair and/or skin a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides and a conditioning agent. Any general description and preferences as described hereinabove for the microemulsion, the conditioning agent, and the personal care composition in first aspect according to the present invention may be applied here without restrictions.
In the third aspect, the present invention relates to a personal care composition, particularly a hair care composition, which comprises
- at least one surfactant,
- a silicone conditioning agent, and
- a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
Preferably, the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
The silicone conditioning agent may be present in the personal care composition such as hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight, more preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Particularly, the personal care composition such as hair care composition may comprise
- at least one surfactant,
- a silicone conditioning agent, and
- a microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water.
Preferably, the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
The silicone conditioning agent may be present in the personal care composition such as hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
More particularly, the hair care composition may comprise
- at least one surfactant,
- at least one cationic polymer,
- a silicone conditioning agent, and
- a microemulsion comprising or consisting of (i) 4%to 30%by weight, preferably 5%to 25%by weight, more preferably 10%to 20%by weight of C4-22-alkyl (oligo) glycosides, preferably C8-16-alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) 4%to 20%by weight, preferably 5%to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, preferably an ester of glycerol with an unsaturated C14-18-linear fatty acid, (iii) 10%to 30%by weight, preferably 15%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 25%by weight of ether oil, preferably dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) , and (iv) 40%to 80%by weight, preferably 45%to 60%by weight, 45%to 55%by weight of water.  Preferably, the silicone conditioning agent is present in the hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight, more preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Still particularly, the hair care composition may comprise
- at least one surfactant,
- at least one cationic polymer,
- a silicone conditioning agent,
- a microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, and (iv) water, and
- at least one conditioning agent selected from fatty esters.
Preferably, the silicone conditioning agent is present in the hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight, more preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Still more particularly, the hair care composition may comprise
- at least one surfactant,
- at least one cationic polymer,
- a silicone conditioning agent,
- a microemulsion comprising or consisting of (i) 4%to 30%by weight, preferably 5%to 25%by weight, more preferably 10%to 20%by weight of C4-22-alkyl (oligo) glycosides, preferably C8-16-alkyl (oligo) glycosides, more preferably decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside or their mixtures, (ii) 4%to 20%by weight, preferably 5%to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, preferably an ester of glycerol with an unsaturated C14- 18-linear fatty acid, (iii) 10%to 30%by weight, preferably 15%to 30%by weight, more preferably 15%to 25%by weight of ether oil, preferably dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) , and (iv) 40%to 80%by weight, preferably 45%to 60%by weight, 45%to 55%by weight of water, and
- at least one conditioning agent selected from fatty esters.
Preferably, the silicone conditioning agent is present in the hair care composition in an amount of 0.01%to 10%by weight , more preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
The hair care composition may be any hair treatment products, particularly a shampoo composition.
The at least one surfactant, the conditioning agent and the microemulsion are those as described hereinabove for the first aspect of the present invention.
The personal care composition may further comprise one or more benefit agents as described hereinabove for the first aspect of the present invention.
Also, the personal care composition will comprise water in addition to the water as comprised in the microemulsion and possibly in the conditioning agent and any optional other active ingredients or additives.
In some illustrative embodiments, the personal care composition, particularly hair care composition may comprise
- 5%to 50%by weight, preferably 10%to 30%by weight of at least one surfactant,
- 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably 1%to 3%by weight of a silicone conditioning agent,
- 0.5%to 10%by weight, preferably 0.5%to 8%by weight, still preferably 1%to 5%by weight of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides, and
- water adding to 100%,
based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Preferably the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer in an amount of 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 2%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
In some particular embodiments, the hair care composition may comprise
- 5%to 50%by weight, preferably 10%to 30%by weight of at least one surfactant,
- 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably 1%to 3%by weight of a silicone conditioning agent,
- 0.5%to 10%by weight, preferably 0.5%to 8%by weight, still preferably preferably 1%to 5%by weight of a microemulsion comprising (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides, (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, preferably an ester of glycerol with an unsaturated C14- 18-linear fatty acid, (iii) a non-silicone oil, preferably ether oil, more preferably dicaprylyl ether (di-n-octyl ether) , and (iv) water, and
- 25%to 80%, preferably 35%to 75%by weight of additional water,
based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Preferably the personal care composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer in an amount of 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 2%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
Embodiments
Various embodiments are listed below. It will be understood that the embodiments listed below may be combined with all aspects and other embodiments in accordance with the scope of the invention.
1. A method of improving deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair and/or skin, which comprises applying to hair and/or skin a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides and a conditioning agent.
2. Use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
3. The method or use according to Embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the microemulsion comprises
(i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
(ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
(iii) a non-silicone oil, and
(iv) water.
4. The method or use according to Embodiment 3, wherein the microemulsion comprises or consists of
(i) 4%to 30%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
(ii) 1%to 25%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
(iii) 5%to 30%by weight of a non-silicone oil, and
(iv) up to 80%by weight of water,
based on the total amount of the microemulsion.
5. The method or use according to Embodiment 4, wherein the microemulsion comprises (i) 5% to 25%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
6. The method or use according to Embodiment 5, wherein the microemulsion comprises 10% to 20%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
7. The method or use according to any of Embodiments 4 to 6, wherein the microemulsion comprises (ii) 4%to 20%by weight an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12- 22-fatty acid.
8. The method or use according to Embodiment 7, wherein the microemulsion comprises (ii) 5% to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid.
9. The method or use according to any of Embodiments 3 to 7, wherein the ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid is a monoester of glycerol with an unsaturated C14- 18-fatty acid.
10. The method or use according to any of Embodiments 4 to 9, wherein the microemulsion comprises (iii) 10%to 30%by weight of a non-silicone oil.
11. The method or use according to Embodiment 10, wherein the microemulsion comprises (iii) 15%to 30%by weight of a non-silicone oil.
12. The method or use according to Embodiment 11, wherein the microemulsion comprises (iii) 15%to 25%by weight of a non-silicone oil.
13. The method or use according to any of Embodiments 3 to 12 wherein the non-silicone oil is an ether oil.
14. The method or use according to any of Embodiments 4 to 13, wherein the microemulsion comprises (iv) 40%to 80%by weight of water.
15. The method or use according to Embodiments 14, wherein the microemulsion comprises (iv) 45%to 60%by weight of water.
16. The method or use according to any of Embodiments 1 to 15, wherein the alkyl (oligo) glycosides are represented by the formula of
R1-O- [G] p-H    (I) ,
in which
R1 is a C4-22-alkyl, preferably C8-16-alkyl,
G is a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and
p is a number in the range of from 1 to 10.
17. The method or use according to Embodiment 16, wherein the sugar residue is selected from the group consisting of glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose residues, preferably glucose, xylose and arabinose residues, particulary glucose residue.
18. The method or use according to any of Embodiments 1 to 17, wherein the conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of silicones, fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin.
19. The method or use according to Embodiment 18, wherein the silicones are selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile cyclic and linear silicones, preferably from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, methicone, simethicone, polysilicone-15 and any combinations thereof.
20. The method or use according to Embodiment 18, wherein the fatty esters are selected from the group consisting of fatty esters derived from C12-22-fatty acids, fatty esters derived from C10-22-fatty alcohols, and fatty esters derived from Guerbet fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
21. The method or use according to any of Embodiments 1 to 20, wherein the microemulsion is used in an amount from 0.5%to 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the personal care composition.
22. The method or use according to Embodiment 21, wherein the microemulsion is used in an amount from 0.5%to 8%by weight.
23. The method or use according to Embodiment 22, wherein the microemulsion is used in an amount from 1%to 5%by weight.
24. A personal care composition, particularly a hair care composition, which comprises
- at least one surfactant,
- a silicone conditioning agent, and
- a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides as defined in any of Embodiments 1 to 17.
25. The personal care composition according to Embodiment 24, which further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
26. The personal care composition according to Embodiment 24 or 25, wherein the microemulsion is present in an amount from 0.5%to 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the personal care composition.
27. The personal care composition according to Embodiment 26, wherein the microemulsion is present in an amount from 0.5%to 8%by weight.
28. The personal care composition according to Embodiment 27, wherein the microemulsion is present in an amount from 1%to 5%by weight.
29. The personal care composition according to any of Embodiments 24 to 28, wherein the silicone conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile cyclic and linear silicones, preferably from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, methicone, simethicone, polysilicone-15 , and any combinations thereof.
30. The personal care composition according to any of Embodiments 24 to 29, wherein the silicone conditioning agent is present in an amount from 0.1%to 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the personal care composition.
31. The personal care composition according to Embodiment 30, wherein the silicone conditioning agent is present in an amount of less than 5%by weight.
32. The personal care composition according to any of Embodiments 25 to 31, wherein the cationic polymer is present in an amount from 0.01%to 5%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
33. The personal care composition according to Embodiment 32, wherein the cationic polymer is present in an amount from 0.1%to 2%by weight.
34. The personal care composition according to any of Embodiments 24 to 33, wherein the at least one surfactant is selected from anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
Examples
Aspects of the present invention will be more fully illustrated by the following examples, which are set forth to illustrate certain aspects of the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting thereof.
Preparation of shampoo formulations:
- Heating water to 80℃ and adding the other ingredient of Phase A, stirring until transparent and homogeneous;
- Adding the ingredients of Phase B into Phase A one by one and stirring until transparent and homogeneous;
- Stopping heating and cooling down the mixture of Phases A and B to room temperature, then adding the ingredients of Phase C one by one and stirring until transparent and homogenous.
General Procedure for Characterization of Deposition
Materials
· Cleaned Chinese hair: 15cm/2g
· Test shampoos
·
Treatment
· Treating hair strands with the test shampoos (0.5g/2g hair) and incubating the treated hair strands in an oven at 37 ℃ for 1 hour, then rinsing the hair strands for 1 min;
· Repeating the above step 6 times;
· Cutting the hair strands into 5mm sections as test samples for determination by NMR.
NMR Quantitative Determination of Conditioning Agent Deposition
Apparatus
· Bruker 1 GHZ AEON NMR spectrometer
Materials
· Deuterated chloroform with TDME (CDCl3)
· NMR-tubes 5 mm
· Petri dishes
Sample Preparation (Solvent method)
· 1 g of samples being transferred in a 250 ml bottle and mixed with 100 ml of n-Pentane
· Shaking 1 h and waiting for phase separation;
· The solvent being transferred into petri dish and dried completely at room temperature;
· The residues being dissolved in 1 ml deuterated chloroform with TDME as internal reference standard and then transferred into an NMR-tube;
· Each sample of 3 parallel, and each sample being extracted for 2 times.
All glass materials and reagents as used were checked for silicone oil contamination. The detection limit is 0.01 mg/kg, and the limit of quantification is 0.02 mg/kg.
The formulations of the test shampoos are shown in Tables 1 to 4 below, and the microemulsion as used isMicro commercially available from BASF which has the following composition:
Table 1 Formulations of Shampoo Comprising Silicone Conditioning Agent
1 weight percentage provided based on commercial product
*silicone conditioning agent
The deposition amount of silicone on hair treated with the shampoo C1 free of the microemulsion is 23.3 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of silicone on hair treated with the shampoo E1 containing the microemulsion is increased to 130.2 mg/kg. The deposition of silicone is increased by about 4.6 times by means of the microemulsion.
Table 2 Formulations of Shampoo Comprising Fatty Ester Conditioning Agent
1 weight percentage provided based on commercial product
*fatty ester conditioning agent
The deposition amount of Octyldodecyl Myristate on hair treated with the shampoo C2 free of the microemulsion is 5.9 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Octyldodecyl Myristate on hair treated with the shampoo E1 containing the microemulsion is increased to 17.2 mg/kg. The deposition of Octyldodecyl Myristate is increased by about 1.9 times by means of the microemulsion.
Table 3 Formulations of Shampoo Comprising Ester-based Conditioning Agent
1 weight percentage provided based on commercial product
*fatty ester conditioning agent
The deposition amount of Dicaprylyl Carbonate on hair treated with the shampoo C3 free of the microemulsion is 186.8 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Dicaprylyl Carbonate on hair treated with the shampoo E3 containing the microemulsion is increased to 239.8 mg/kg. The deposition of Dicaprylyl Carbonate is increased by about 28%by means of the microemulsion.
Although the invention herein has been described with reference to particular embodiments, it is to be understood that these embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and applications of the present invention. It will be apparent to those of skill in the art that various modifications and variations can be made to the method and apparatus of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Thus, it is intended that the present invention include modifications and variations that are within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.
Table 4 Formulations of Shampoo Comprising Hydrocarbon-based Oils of Plant Origin as Conditioning Agent
1 weight percentage provided based on commercial product
*Hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin as Conditioning agent
The deposition amount of Shea butter (Cetiol SB 45) on hair treated with the shampoo C4 free of the microemulsion is 74.0 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Shea butter on hair treated with the shampoo E4 containing the microemulsion is increased to 98.0 mg/kg. The deposition of conditioning agent is increased by about 32%by means of the microemulsion.
Table 5 Formulations of Shampoo Comprising Hydrocarbon-based Oils of Plant Origin as Conditioning Agent

1 weight percentage provided based on commercial product
*Hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin as conditioning agent
The deposition amount of Kernel oil (Lipofructyl Argan LS 9779) on hair treated with the shampoo C5 free of the microemulsion is 48.0 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Shea butter on hair treated with the shampoo E5 containing the microemulsion is increased to 60.0 mg/kg. The deposition of conditioning agent is increased by about 25%by means of the microemulsion.
Table 6 Formulations of Shampoo Comprising Hydrocarbon-based Oils of Plant Origin as Conditioning Agent
1 weight percentage provided based on commercial product
*Hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin as conditioning agent
The deposition amount of Vegetable oil (Cegesoft PS 6) ) on hair treated with the shampoo C6 free of the microemulsion is 109.0 mg/kg as measured by NMR, while the deposition amount of Shea butter on hair treated with the shampoo E6 containing the microemulsion is increased to 155.0 mg/kg. The deposition of conditioning agent is increased by about 42%by means of the microemulsion.

Claims (18)

  1. A method of improving deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair and/or skin, which comprises applying to hair and/or skin a personal care composition comprising a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides and a conditioning agent.
  2. Use of a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides in personal care compositions for improving the deposition of a conditioning agent onto hair or skin.
  3. The method or use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the microemulsion comprises
    (i) alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
    (ii) an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
    (iii) a non-silicone oil, and
    (iv) water.
  4. The method or use according to claim 3, wherein the microemulsion comprises or consists of
    (i) 4%to 30%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
    (ii) 1%to 25%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid,
    (iii) 5%to 30%by weight of a non-silicone oil, and
    (iv) up to 80%by weight of water,
    based on the total amount of the microemulsion.
  5. The method or use according to claim 4, wherein the microemulsion comprises or consists of
    (i) 5%to 25%by weight, preferably 10%to 20%by weight of alkyl (oligo) glycosides,
    (ii) 4%to 20%by weight, preferably 5%to 15%by weight of an ester of glycerol with a saturated or unsaturated C12-22-fatty acid, preferably a monoester of glycerol with an unsaturated C14-18-fatty acid,
    (iii) 10%to 30%by weight, preferably 15%to 30%by weight of a non-silicone oil, preferably an ether oil, and
    (iv) 40%to 80%by weight, preferably 45%to 60%by weight of water,
    based on the total amount of the microemulsion.
  6. The method or use according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the alkyl (oligo) glycosides are represented by the formula of
    R1-O- [G] p-H   (I) ,
    in which
    R1 is a C4-22-alkyl, preferably C8-16-alkyl,
    G is a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and
    p is a number in the range of from 1 to 10.
  7. The method or use according to claim 6, wherein the sugar residue is selected from the group consisting of glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose,  allose, altrose, dextran and tallose residues, preferably glucose, xylose and arabinose residues, particulary glucose residue.
  8. The method or use according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of silicones, fatty esters and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin.
  9. The method or use according to claim 8, wherein the silicones are selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile cyclic and linear silicones, preferably from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, methicone, simethicone, polysilicone-15 and any combinations thereof.
  10. The method or use according to claim 8, wherein the fatty esters are selected from the group consisting of fatty esters derived from C12-22-fatty acids, fatty esters derived from C10-22-fatty alcohols, and fatty esters derived from Guerbet fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  11. The method or use according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein the microemulsion is used in an amount from 0.5%to 10%by weight, particularly 0.5%to 8%by weight, more particular 1%to 5%by weight based on the total weight of the personal care composition.
  12. A personal care composition, particularly a hair care composition, which comprises
    - at least one surfactant,
    - a silicone conditioning agent, and
    - a microemulsion based on alkyl (oligo) glycosides as defined in any of claims 1 to 7.
  13. The personal care composition according to claim 12, which further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  14. The personal care composition according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the microemulsion is present in an amount from 0.5%to 10%by weight, particularly 0.5%to 8%by weight, more particularly 1%to 5%by weight, based on the total weight of the personal care composition.
  15. The personal care composition according to any of claims 12 to 14, wherein the silicone conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile cyclic and linear silicones, preferably from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, methicone, simethicone, polysilicone-15 , and any combinations thereof.
  16. The personal care composition according to any of claims 12 to 15, wherein the silicone conditioning agent is present in an amount from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably less than 5%by weight, based on the total weight of the personal care composition.
  17. The personal care composition according to any of claims 13 to 16, wherein the cationic polymer is present in an amount from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 2%by weight, based on the total amount of the personal care composition.
  18. The personal care composition according to any of claims 12 to 17, wherein the at least one surfactant is selected from anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
PCT/CN2024/087394 2023-04-13 2024-04-12 Use of apg-based microemulsion in personal care compositions Pending WO2024213086A1 (en)

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