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WO2024130617A1 - Composition pour fabriquer des matières kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition pour fabriquer des matières kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024130617A1
WO2024130617A1 PCT/CN2022/140896 CN2022140896W WO2024130617A1 WO 2024130617 A1 WO2024130617 A1 WO 2024130617A1 CN 2022140896 W CN2022140896 W CN 2022140896W WO 2024130617 A1 WO2024130617 A1 WO 2024130617A1
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Prior art keywords
polyglyceryl
weight
composition
group
composition according
Prior art date
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PCT/CN2022/140896
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English (en)
Inventor
Yi Ding
Xinwei YU
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to EP22968918.7A priority Critical patent/EP4637695A1/fr
Priority to CN202280101798.1A priority patent/CN120225169A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2022/140896 priority patent/WO2024130617A1/fr
Priority to FR2300573A priority patent/FR3144002A1/fr
Publication of WO2024130617A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024130617A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and especially to the field of compositions for making up keratin materials.
  • compositions that enhance the appearance of keratin materials and especially the skin, in particular the optical cosmetic effect of the skin, such as brightening effect, coverage effect and radiance effect of the skin.
  • Cosmetic compositions able to bring skin the optical effects as mentioned above are known, for example as foundation products containing colorants and oils in emulsion type, and particularly in water-in-oil emulsion type.
  • this cosmetic effect is also expected to be long lasting, due to the use routine of this type of products (using for all day long) .
  • these foundation products are still not satisfying.
  • a film former can generally provide long lasting benefits to makeup product, e.g., foundation, which however normally will deliver tight skin feel.
  • the present invention aims at solving one or more of the problems mentioned above.
  • a purpose of the invention is to formulate compositions, in particular makeup foundations, which are capable, on application, of providing good skin sensory, and also a long lasting hydration on keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • a purpose of the invention is to formulate compositions, in particular makeup foundations, which provide a good hydration effect to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the hydration effect is long lasting without compromise the sensory.
  • composition for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin comprising:
  • Another subject of the present invention is a process for making up/caring for keratin materials, for example the skin, by applying to the keratin materials the composition of the present invention.
  • keratin materials we intend to mean human keratin materials such as skin, lips, and nails, in particular skin and lips, more preferably skin, particularly facial skin.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for making up keratin materials, comprising the components of:
  • composition of the present invention may contain at least one silicone acrylate copolymer as component A) .
  • Silicone acrylate copolymers can function as film former for the purpose of the present invention. They are available as silicone acrylate copolymers with a (meth) acrylate backbone grafted with a silicone chain or as a silicone backbone grafted with a (meth) acrylate, or as a silicone acrylate dendrimer.
  • Silicone acrylate dendrimers such as those described and claimed in US Patent No. 6,280,748, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference, can be preferred for use in the composition of the present invention.
  • the silicone acrylate dendrimer is comprised of a vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in its side molecular chain. It is characterized by a vinyl-type polymer which has in its side molecular chain a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
  • the term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure” is a structure with high-molecular-weight groups branched with high regularity in a radial direction from a single core.
  • the vinyl polymer backbone is formed from a vinyl-type monomer which contains a radical polymerizable vinyl group.
  • a vinyl-type monomer which contains a radical polymerizable vinyl group.
  • a particularly preferred vinyl polymer is a (meth) acrylate.
  • the silicone acrylate copolymers is chosen from acrylates/dimethicone copolymers, acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer, acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, poly (dimethylsiloxane) -g-poly (isobutyl methacrylate) , and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the silicone polymer is acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
  • Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylates/dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, the products sold under the tradenames KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate/dimethicone copolymer) , KP-561 (acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , KP-562 (acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer) , and mixtures thereof.
  • KP-545 cyclopenta
  • Additional examples include the acrylate/dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the tradenames FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer) , FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer) , and FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer) , and mixtures thereof.
  • FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer
  • FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copo
  • the number-average molecular weight of the silicone acrylate dendrimers for use in the composition of the present invention may preferably range from about 3,000 to about 2,000,000, such as from about 5,000 to about 800,000.
  • the component A) silicone acrylate copolymer, may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 1.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Component B Polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol
  • composition of the present invention may contain at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol as component B) .
  • polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol can be represented by formula (I) shown below:
  • Gly denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from glycerin
  • PO denotes an oxypropylene group
  • EO denotes an oxyethylene group
  • s and t denote the average addition mole numbers of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;
  • the weight ratio of PO to EO ranges from 1/5 to 5/1;
  • BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms
  • u denotes the average addition mole number of BO, and ranges from 0.5 to 5.
  • s ranges from 2 to 15, preferably from 3 to 7;
  • t ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 6 to 10;
  • u ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 2 to 4.
  • the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (I) can be obtained by adding propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerin, in the ratio of 3 to 150 mole equivalents of each of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with respect to glycerin, and subsequently, adding the alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms in the ratio of 1.5 to 15 mole equivalents thereof with respect to glycerin.
  • the addition reactions are carried out with an alkali catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or the like.
  • an alkali catalyst such as potassium hydroxide is preferably employed.
  • polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (I) more preferred are those obtained by adding 6 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide.
  • PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is preferred, which is obtained by adding 8 mol of ethylene oxide and 5 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 3 mol ofbutylene oxide.
  • PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is commercially available as the trade name of WILBRIDE S-753D from NOF Corporation.
  • the component B) polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol of component B) can serve as a humectant for the purpose of the invention. Without being limited with any known theory, it is believed that the concurrent use of specific components A) and B) can benefit the formation of a more flex and less tight film, so as to deliver instant and long lasting hydration while keeping good sensory.
  • an appropriate ratio of component A) to component B) can be specially beneficial for desirable hydration, in particular a better balance between the desirable hydration and sensory effects.
  • the ratio by weight of component A) to component B) is preferably 2: 5-5: 2, more preferably 1: 2-2: 1.
  • composition of the present invention may be in the form of emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one oil.
  • oil refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure.
  • oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of from 0.01 to 200mg/cm 2 /min.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
  • hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • hydrocarbon oils mentions may be made of volatile oils such as C 8 -C 16 alkanes, for example dodecane, tetradecane; non-volatile oils such as hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, C 12 -C 22 , higher fatty acids, oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, lipophilic polymers, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters, esters of C 24 -C 28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohol
  • silicone oils mention may be made of:
  • linear or cyclic volatiles oils especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s) , and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms;
  • cSt centistokes
  • PDMS linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes/dimethicones
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; for example cyclohexasiloxane, which is commercially available under the tradename Silsoft 1217 sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials;
  • phenyl silicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, for example the product phenyl trimethicone sold by the company Dow Corning under the tradename Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;
  • the oil is selected from linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyl silicones, more preferably selected from cyclohexasiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may be in the form of emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactants are generally chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactant, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the surfactants are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the continuous phase of the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W) .
  • the emulsion is a multiple emulsion, it generally comprises a surfactant in the primary emulsion and a surfactant in the outer phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced.
  • nonionic surfactants may be preferable.
  • a C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is used as the nonionic surfactant.
  • the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the invention is more particularly an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C 8 -C 22 ) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.
  • the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (IV) :
  • - PE represents from groups (-C 2 H 4 O) x - (C 3 H 6 O) y -R, wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40
  • n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200
  • o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100
  • p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21
  • q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.
  • R is a hydrogen atom
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 10
  • n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100
  • o is an integer ranging from 1 to 30
  • p is 15, and q is 3.
  • the at least one C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is chosen from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and more particularly the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • Abil EM-90 is a cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.
  • dimethicone copolyols can also be used, such as PEG-10 dimethicone.
  • the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from glyceryl esters and derivatives, and alkoxylated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-ionic surfactant used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from a group consisting of ethers of a sugar and of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl/capryl glucoside, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9, polyoxyalkylenated derivative of mono glyceryl ester of a fatty acid, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, such as polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, or mixtures thereof.
  • polyglyceryl-2 distearate such as that sold under the name Emalex PGSA by Nihom Emulsion,
  • polyglyceryl-10 decastearate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-1810S by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate such as that sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by CRODA,
  • polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft A-186E by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-175S by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-185S by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-4 isostearate such as that sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT,
  • polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxy-stearate sebacate such as that sold under the name Isolan GPS by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT,
  • polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate such as that sold under the name Dehymuls PGPH by COGNIS,
  • polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate such as that sold under the name Lameform TGI by COGNIS,
  • polyglyceryl-5 trioleate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft A-173E by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-2 oleate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-17B by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-2 caprylate such as that sold under the name Sunsoft Q-81B by TAIYO KAGAKU
  • polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate such as that sold under the name Crester PR by CRODA,
  • the composition according to the invention comprises non-ionic surfactant selected from C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, glyceryl esters and derivatives, and alkoxylated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, selected from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol such as a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid such as polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-ionic surfactant selected from C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, glyceryl esters and derivatives, and alkoxylated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, selected from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol such as a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl esters
  • the surfactant e.g., a C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol
  • compositions according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one filler.
  • the term “filler” means any solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular in form of particles, used alone or in combination, which does not react chemically with the various ingredients of the composition and which is insoluble in these ingredients, even when these ingredients are raised to a temperature above room temperature and in particular to their softening point or their melting point.
  • the at least one filler has a melting point at least greater than 1000°C., or greater than 1700°C., for example, even greater than 2000°C.
  • the at least one filler may have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 ⁇ m to 150 ⁇ m, such as from 0.5 ⁇ m to 120 ⁇ m, for example from 1 ⁇ m to 80 ⁇ m.
  • An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle into which the elementary particle fits along its shortest dimension (thickness for leaflets) .
  • the at least one filler may be absorbent, i.e., capable in particular of absorbing the oils of the composition and also the biological substances secreted by the skin, may be surface-treated, e.g., to make it lipophilic, and/or may be porous so as to absorb the sweat and/or sebum secreted by the skin.
  • the filler may be chosen from inorganic and organic fillers, and may have any shape such as lamellar, spherical and/or oblong.
  • Non-limiting examples of the at least one inert filler include talc, mica, silica, and disteardimonium hectorite.
  • the filler may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention can also comprises at least one additional film former other than component A) , e.g., one chosen from vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dentrimer, other than the silicone acrylate copolymer of component A) .
  • additional film former other than component A) , e.g., one chosen from vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dentrimer, other than the silicone acrylate copolymer of component A) .
  • a vinyl polymer suitable for the preparation of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit.
  • the vinyl polymer may have, in particular, a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
  • carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular masses, said structure having a high regularity in the radial direction starting from the linkage to the backbone.
  • Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in the Japanese patent application made available to public inspection Kokai 9-171 154.
  • a vinyl polymer according to the invention may contain carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived units which can be represented by the following general formula:
  • R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 1 is as defined above
  • R 2 represents an alkylene group having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group
  • a i is an integer from 0 to 3
  • Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group selected from:
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group or a butylene group, the methylene group and the propylene group being preferred
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group or a butyl group, the methyl group being preferred
  • R 8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group or a butylene group, the ethylene group being preferred
  • b is an integer from 0 to 4
  • c is 0 or 1 such that, if c is 0, - (R 8 ) c -represents a bond.
  • R 1 may represent an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl group may preferably be represented by a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a butyl group, a pentyl group, an isopropyl group, an isobutyl group, a cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group.
  • the aryl group may preferably be represented by a phenyl group and a naphthyl group. Methyl and phenyl groups are more particularly preferred, and the methyl group is preferred above all.
  • a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane-dendrimer-derived unit has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and can be derived from the polymerization:
  • Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group
  • R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 1 is as defined above
  • R 2 represents an alkylene group having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl
  • a i is an integer from 0 to 3;
  • radical-polymerizable organic group contained in the component (ii) is selected from:
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • b is an integer from 0 to 4
  • c is 0 or 1, such that, if c is 0, - (R 8 ) c -represents a bond.
  • the monomer of vinyl type that is the component (i) in the vinyl polymer is a monomer of vinyl type which contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.
  • this vinyl-type monomer methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a methacrylate of a lower alkyl analog; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher-analog methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a vinyl ester of a
  • Multifunctional monomers of vinyl type may also be used.
  • the additional film former other than component A) may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.05%to 20%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%to 15%by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise at least one pigment.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.
  • the pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials) .
  • the pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes and pigments with an optical effect, for instance goniochromatic pigments and nacres.
  • the mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red) , titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminium powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.
  • Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye attached to a substrate.
  • the lakes which are also known as organic pigments, may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
  • organic pigments that may in particular be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;
  • the organic lakes may be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
  • acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
  • the organic lakes may also be supported on an organic support such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.
  • organic lakes mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No.
  • liposoluble dyes such as, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes
  • fatty acids such as stearic acid
  • metal soaps such as aluminiu
  • the N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above in particular denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.
  • the pigment used in the present invention is hydrophobic treated pigments.
  • the pigment used in the present invention is selected from pigments treated with silica and alumina, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane and aluminium hydroxide, alumina and isopropyl titanium triisostearate, aluminium hydroxide and hydrogenated lecithin, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium hydroxide, or a mixture thereof.
  • the pigment may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 2%to 25%by weight, or preferably from 5%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can be formulated into emulsion, and thus may comprise at least one aqueous phase.
  • the at least one aqueous phase comprises water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isoprop
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • water may be present in an amount ranging from 10%to 60%by weight, preferably 15%to 50%by weight, or preferably 20%to 45%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention can comprise one or more adjuvants usually useful in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles; agents for combating free radicals; sequestering agents; UV-screening agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming polymer different from silicone acrylate copolymer, plant extracts; and their mixtures.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations.
  • composition of the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose its method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the composition.
  • composition of the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for making up/caring for a keratin material, such as the skin, by being applied to the skin.
  • a non-therapeutic process such as a cosmetic process or method, for making up/caring for a keratin material, such as the skin, by being applied to the skin.
  • the method according to the present invention can improve skin sensory, in particularly water breaking feeling, without deteriorating other beneficial effects like easy application to the e.g. skin.
  • compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
  • Ex. 1-Ex. 3 according to the present invention, as well as comparative CE. 1-CE. 2 were prepared according to Table 1 below.
  • compositions taking Ex. 1 as an example were prepared following the steps of:
  • Example A The compositions of Example A were evaluated for the moisturization/sensory performance as follows.
  • the measurement of the skin moisture was based on the worldwide acknowledged -method, a capacitance method.
  • the measurement time of each measurement was 1 second.
  • the measurement was started by putting the probe of the corneometer onto the skin area to be measured.
  • the probe was put vertically on the measurement area according to the pressure of the spring inside the probe head.
  • Each area was tested 3 times to get average value. T6H was selected as the testing data.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition pour fabriquer des matières kératiniques comprenant A) au moins un copolymère d'acrylate de silicone ; et B) au moins un polyoxypropylène polyoxyéthylène polyoxypropylène glycérol. La composition présente de bonnes performances hydratantes et sensorielles.
PCT/CN2022/140896 2022-12-22 2022-12-22 Composition pour fabriquer des matières kératiniques Ceased WO2024130617A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22968918.7A EP4637695A1 (fr) 2022-12-22 2022-12-22 Composition pour fabriquer des matières kératiniques
CN202280101798.1A CN120225169A (zh) 2022-12-22 2022-12-22 用于化妆角蛋白材料的组合物
PCT/CN2022/140896 WO2024130617A1 (fr) 2022-12-22 2022-12-22 Composition pour fabriquer des matières kératiniques
FR2300573A FR3144002A1 (fr) 2022-12-22 2023-01-23 Composition de maquillage de matières kératineuses

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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PCT/CN2022/140896 WO2024130617A1 (fr) 2022-12-22 2022-12-22 Composition pour fabriquer des matières kératiniques

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WO2024130617A1 true WO2024130617A1 (fr) 2024-06-27

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CN (1) CN120225169A (fr)
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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150231043A1 (en) * 2012-10-30 2015-08-20 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Sunscreen cosmetic
US20180168974A1 (en) * 2015-07-29 2018-06-21 L'oreal Composition comprising an associative thickener
US20180235850A1 (en) * 2017-02-20 2018-08-23 Tokiwa Corporation Cosmetic product and method for producing the same
WO2020084085A1 (fr) * 2018-10-25 2020-04-30 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un copolymère acrylique de silicone et au moins un copolymère acrylique cationique
CN113491640A (zh) * 2021-08-16 2021-10-12 广州集妍化妆品科技有限公司 防晒组合物及其制备方法

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6280748B1 (en) 1998-06-12 2001-08-28 Dow Corning Toray Silicone, Ltd. Cosmetic raw material cosmetic product and method for manufacturing cosmetic products
JP3631927B2 (ja) 1999-09-22 2005-03-23 ロレアル ゲル組成物とその化粧料等への使用
WO2013106996A1 (fr) * 2012-01-17 2013-07-25 L'oreal Composition de changement de couleur sous forme de gel
FR3098107B1 (fr) * 2019-07-03 2022-07-29 Chanel Parfums Beaute Composition cosmétique solide
WO2022018474A1 (fr) * 2020-07-23 2022-01-27 Chanel Parfums Beaute Pigment traité en surface et composition cosmétique le contenant

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150231043A1 (en) * 2012-10-30 2015-08-20 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Sunscreen cosmetic
US20180168974A1 (en) * 2015-07-29 2018-06-21 L'oreal Composition comprising an associative thickener
US20180235850A1 (en) * 2017-02-20 2018-08-23 Tokiwa Corporation Cosmetic product and method for producing the same
WO2020084085A1 (fr) * 2018-10-25 2020-04-30 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un copolymère acrylique de silicone et au moins un copolymère acrylique cationique
CN113491640A (zh) * 2021-08-16 2021-10-12 广州集妍化妆品科技有限公司 防晒组合物及其制备方法

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