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WO2024121250A1 - Aerosol device based on anionic fixing polymer, direct dye, monoalcohol and dimethyl ether - Google Patents

Aerosol device based on anionic fixing polymer, direct dye, monoalcohol and dimethyl ether Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024121250A1
WO2024121250A1 PCT/EP2023/084577 EP2023084577W WO2024121250A1 WO 2024121250 A1 WO2024121250 A1 WO 2024121250A1 EP 2023084577 W EP2023084577 W EP 2023084577W WO 2024121250 A1 WO2024121250 A1 WO 2024121250A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
anionic
acid
chosen
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2023/084577
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French (fr)
Inventor
Carine Aires
Lionel Aubert
Nadia Smail
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to EP23821219.5A priority Critical patent/EP4629960A1/en
Priority to CN202380083853.3A priority patent/CN120379632A/en
Publication of WO2024121250A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024121250A1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432Direct dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an aerosol device comprising a composition for treating keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one anionic fixing polymer, at least one blue, green or purple direct dye, at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, and at least dimethyl ether, and also to a treatment process using said composition.
  • the aim of the present invention is to develop a device for treating keratin fibres such as the hair, allowing rapid and homogeneous application of the composition to the keratin fibres leading to neutralization of the yellow and/or orangey tints of the hair over the whole of the head of hair treated, having good cosmetic properties in terms of softness or suppleness of the hair and also good properties of shaping the head of hair and/or form retention of the hairstyle.
  • the device according to the invention results in a treatment which does not transfer or transfers little to the skin or to textiles once dried.
  • composition comprising:
  • Another subject of the invention is a process for neutralizing the yellow and/or orangey tints of keratin fibres such as the hair, which have been previously bleached and/or are natural white, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition delivered from a device as defined above.
  • this composition has good transfer resistance and the deposition onto supports with which the composition comes into contact, such as the skin and/or clothing, is limited.
  • the aerosol device comprises at least one pressurized container comprising:
  • composition comprising:
  • composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition a) according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, such as the hair.
  • the total weight of the composition corresponds to the total weight of the composition a).
  • the total weight of the composition corresponds to the weight of the composition a) + the weight of the propellant(s).
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic fixing polymer.
  • fixing polymer refers to any polymer that is capable of giving shape to a head of hair or of maintaining a head of hair in a given shape.
  • Anionic fixing polymers that may be mentioned include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 000 000.
  • the carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula ( I ):
  • n is an integer from 0 to 10
  • A denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group, when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom, such as oxygen or sulfur,
  • R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a carboxyl group,
  • R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a –CH 2 -COOH group, a phenyl group or a benzyl group.
  • the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms may in particular denote methyl and ethyl groups.
  • anionic fixing polymers bearing carboxylic or sulfonic groups that are preferred are:
  • A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof including copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, and methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers, in particular Amerhold DR 25 sold by Amerchol, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, notably in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE, which are sold by BASF.
  • a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic or methacrylic acid esters
  • a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German patent application No. 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type including an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described notably in Luxembourgian patent applications 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C 1 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate.
  • anionic fixing polymer from this family, mention may also be made of the butyl acrylate/acrylic acid/methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by Lubrizol (INCI name AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer).
  • C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those including vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allylic esters or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, such as those including at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an ⁇ - or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
  • Such polymers are described, inter alia , in French patents 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products that fall within this category are the resins 28 29 30, 26 13 14 and 28 13 10 sold by National Starch.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 113 and GB patent 839 805, and notably those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by ISP.
  • Polymers also falling within this category are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an ⁇ -olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • these polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the applicant.
  • polymers comprising sulfonic groups. These polymers may be polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic, acrylamidoalkylsulfonic or sulfoisophthalate units.
  • These polymers may notably be chosen from:
  • polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100 000, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
  • the grafted silicone polymers used are preferentially chosen from polymers with a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic polyurethanes which may include silicone grafts and silicones bearing hydrocarbon-based grafts.
  • fixing polyurethanes examples include the dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl glycol/polyester diols copolymer (also known under the name polyurethane-1, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® PUR by BASF, and the dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl glycol/polyester diols/silicone diamine copolymer (also known under the name polyurethane-6, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® Si PUR A by BASF.
  • dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl glycol/polyester diols copolymer also known under the name Luviset®-1, INCI name
  • Avalure UR 450 Another anionic polyurethane that may also be used is Avalure UR 450.
  • Polymers containing sulfoisophthalate groups such as the polymers AQ55 and AQ48 sold by Eastman, may also be used.
  • the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name Ultrahold Strong® by BASF, methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, in particular in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE sold by BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as the mono
  • the total amount of fixing polymer(s) may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, with preference from 1.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one blue, green or purple and more particularly blue or purple direct dye.
  • the direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are preferably anionic or cationic and preferably anionic.
  • anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid” direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances.
  • the term "anionic direct dye” means any direct dye including in its structure at least one CO 2 R or SO 3 R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
  • the anionic dyes may be chosen from acid azo direct dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, xanthene dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
  • anionic azo dyes mention may be made of the dyes Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113 and Acid Blue 117.
  • Acid Blue 25 Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 (also called Ext Violet No. 2).
  • triarylmethane dyes mention may be made of the dyes Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7; Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49.
  • xanthene dyes mention may be made of: Acid Violet 9.
  • indole dyes mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74.
  • cationic direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the dyes Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14.
  • the preferred direct dyes are Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferentially Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62 and Acid Blue 9.
  • the direct dye(s) is (are) present in a total amount which may range from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better still from 0.0075% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anionic direct dye(s) is (are) present in a total amount which may range from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better still from 0.0075% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more C2-C4 monoalcohols.
  • the C2-C4 monoalcohols are notably chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol.
  • the monoalcohol used is ethanol.
  • the C2-C4 monoalcohols are generally present in a total amount ranging from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight and even more particularly ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions may also comprise at least one agent commonly used in cosmetics, for example chosen from reducing agents, organic solvents other than C2-C4 monoalcohols, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, silicones, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fatty esters, fatty ethers and pH modifiers, and mixtures thereof.
  • agent commonly used in cosmetics for example chosen from reducing agents, organic solvents other than C2-C4 monoalcohols, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, silicones, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fatty esters, fatty ethers and pH modifiers, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents other than C2-C4 monoalcohols.
  • polyols and polyol ethers such as pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic solvents are present in a total content preferably of between 1% and 80% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially between 10% and 70% by weight approximately and even more particularly between 20% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise water which is present in a content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise water added during the preparation of the composition.
  • the water possibly present may correspond to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
  • the composition according to the invention is anhydrous (0% water).
  • the aerosol device comprises at least one pressurized container comprising at least one propellant chosen from dimethyl ether b).
  • the propellant(s) b) may optionally be present in the composition a) as previously described.
  • the container of the device according to the invention can have rigid walls and can directly contain the composition a ).
  • the container can have rigid walls and can contain a flexible-walled pouch which contains the composition a).
  • the composition a) in the pouch may not comprise propellant b), the latter being in the volume defined between the rigid walls of the container and the pouch.
  • composition a) contained in the pouch itself also comprises at least one propellant b).
  • the composition a) comprises one or more propellants b), and is directly contained in the container of the device.
  • the device comprises a means for delivering the compositions, the means comprising at least one dispensing valve which surmounts the container.
  • the valve is in selective fluidic communication with the inside of the container via a valve inlet orifice, the communication being established in response to the actuation of an actuation means, such as a push-button.
  • the valve is then equipped with two inlet orifices, one of the orifices being able to communicate with the inside of the pouch and the other being able to communicate with the volume defined between the pouch and the rigid walls of the container.
  • the container When the container does not contain a pouch, it is equipped with a dip tube which makes it possible to convey the composition to the inlet orifice of the dispensing valve.
  • the inlet orifice of the valve opens into the pouch.
  • the device can comprise at least one diffuser which caps the valve.
  • the push-button may form part of the diffuser.
  • the diffuser may be equipped with one or more dispensing pipe(s) provided to convey the composition(s) up to one or more dispensing orifices.
  • the diffuser may comprise a single outlet orifice and diffusion branches that radiate from said orifice.
  • the diffuser comprises a plurality of outlet orifices.
  • the outlet orifices may be arranged so as to obtain a diffusion grille.
  • the pressurized container of the device according to the invention has rigid walls and directly contains the composition a).
  • composition a) comprises only dimethyl ether b) as propellant.
  • Dimethyl ether is present in the pressurized container according to the invention preferably in a total content ranging from 25% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, better still from 35% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (packaged in the aerosol device).
  • the total weight of the composition corresponds to the total weight of the composition a).
  • the total weight of the composition corresponds to the weight of the composition a) + the weight of the propellant(s).
  • dimethyl ether b) is present in the pressurized container according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 25% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, better still from 35% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition a).
  • the total amount of anionic fixing polymer may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition a), preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition a), with preference from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition a).
  • the total amount of direct dye(s) may range from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better still from 0.0075% to 0.5% relative to the total weight of the composition a).
  • the composition may also comprise one or more propellants other than dimethyl ether.
  • the additional propellants may be chosen from liquefied gases and compressed gases.
  • chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, 1-chloro-1,1-difluoroethane or 1,1-difluoroethane, or volatile hydrocarbons, such as, in particular, C 3 -C 5 alkanes, such as propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane or pentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrocarbons are chosen from propane, isopropane, n -butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of propellants (that is to say the total content of dimethyl ether + other propellant(s)) preferably ranges from 25% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, better still from 35% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of compressed gases preferably ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the propellants are pressurized, more particularly at least partially in liquid form.
  • the composition which is delivered from the pressurized container is in liquid form.
  • Another subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition delivered from a device as defined above.
  • composition delivered by the aerosol device described above can be used on dry keratin fibres, preferably natural or bleached of blond and white light colours.
  • the keratin fibres have a tone depth of greater than or equal to 7, better still greater than 8, preferentially greater than 9.
  • the "tone" depths are based on the classification of natural shades from 1 to 10, a tone separating each shade from the one immediately following or preceding it (see “Science des Traitements Capillaires” [Science of Hair Treatments] by C. Zviak, published by Masson 1988, p. 278).
  • the application is uniform over the whole of the head of hair.
  • compositions according to the invention A to D were prepared.
  • compositions (g/100 g) AM Active material
  • the aerosol device according to the invention is actuated and the mixture is delivered in spray form.
  • Composition A was sprayed for 5 seconds onto each of the 2 sides of locks of 27 cm long bleached Caucasian hair (alkaline solubility 50) weighing 1 g, at a distance of 20 cm.
  • a* represents the green-red axis
  • b* represents the blue-yellow axis.
  • the chromaticity C* is calculated according to the formula:
  • the distribution of the product along the locks is homogeneous. The colour is therefore more uniform.
  • the fixing is natural and allows the hairstyle to be held.
  • composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B were prepared.
  • compositions (g/100 g) AM Active material
  • the compositions were packaged in a can with the following equipment:
  • the aerosol device according to the invention is actuated and the mixture is delivered in spray form.
  • composition A 2.4 g was sprayed onto each of the 2 sides of locks of 18 cm long washed and dried yak hair weighing 2.6 g, at a distance of 15 cm.
  • each expert observes the lock just after application of the composition, evaluating the neutralizing effect on the lock (less yellow, more natural colour).
  • each expert observes the lock just after application of the composition, evaluating the quantity of particles visible on the lock. The higher the score, the less residue there is.
  • the expert takes the lock between the thumb and index finger, folds the lock in two, and evaluates the resistance to folding. The higher the score, the easier the folding, and thus the more supple the lock.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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Abstract

The present invention relates to an aerosol device comprising: - at least one pressurized container comprising: a) at least one composition comprising: i) at least one anionic fixing polymer, ii) at least one direct dye, and iii) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, and b) at least one propellant chosen from dimethyl ether, the composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and - a means for delivering the composition. The present invention also relates to a process for neutralizing the yellow and/or orangey tints of keratin fibres which have been previously bleached and/or are natural.

Description

AEROSOL DEVICE BASED ON ANIONIC FIXING POLYMER, DIRECT DYE, MONOALCOHOL AND DIMETHYL ETHER
The present invention relates to an aerosol device comprising a composition for treating keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one anionic fixing polymer, at least one blue, green or purple direct dye, at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, and at least dimethyl ether, and also to a treatment process using said composition.
It is well known that the hair is sensitized or weakened to varying degrees by the action of atmospheric agents and in particular light, and by the action of certain cosmetic treatments such as shampoo washing.
It is also known in particular that light has a tendency to attack the natural colour of hair and also the artificial colour of dyed or bleached hair. The colour of the hair gradually fades or turns towards unaesthetic or undesirable shades.
Indeed, bleached hair is very often weakened and porous, so that over time it tends to lose its pigmentation and to exhibit unsightly yellow/orangey tints. Similarly, light-coloured hair, in particular white or grey hair, may have unsightly yellow/orangey tints.
Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a device for treating keratin fibres such as the hair, allowing rapid and homogeneous application of the composition to the keratin fibres leading to neutralization of the yellow and/or orangey tints of the hair over the whole of the head of hair treated, having good cosmetic properties in terms of softness or suppleness of the hair and also good properties of shaping the head of hair and/or form retention of the hairstyle. Moreover, the device according to the invention results in a treatment which does not transfer or transfers little to the skin or to textiles once dried.
Disclosure of the invention
This aim is achieved with the present invention, a subject of which is an aerosol device comprising:
- at least one pressurized container comprising:
a) at least one composition comprising:
i) at least one anionic fixing polymer,
ii) at least one direct dye from among blue, green or purple dyes, and
iii) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, and
b) at least one propellant chosen from dimethyl ether, and
- a means for delivering the composition.
Another subject of the invention is a process for neutralizing the yellow and/or orangey tints of keratin fibres such as the hair, which have been previously bleached and/or are natural white, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition delivered from a device as defined above.
By using the aerosol device according to the invention, a uniform and chromatic neutralization is obtained quickly and easily on the keratin fibres, such as the hair, over the whole of the head of hair. In addition, the hair is softer to the touch and more supple, and does not exhibit residues after application. This treatment has the advantage of being a leave-on treatment and of not using water.
Furthermore, this composition has good transfer resistance and the deposition onto supports with which the composition comes into contact, such as the skin and/or clothing, is limited.
The present invention also relates to a process for hair shaping and/or for form retention of the hairstyle, comprising a step of applying the composition to the hair, while dry or wet, said composition being a leave-on composition. Preferably, the composition is applied to keratin fibres such as light-coloured (blond or white) hair which is natural or bleached.
Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition for hair shaping and/or form retention of the hairstyle.
The term "neutralization of yellow and/or orangey tints" is intended to mean masking unsightly yellow and/or orangey tints, that is to say modifying the colour to make it more natural (close to a natural blond or white), in particular by varying the values of the parameters a* (green-red axis) and/or b* (blue-yellow axis) of the CIELab colorimetric system.
The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the various examples may in particular be combined within variants which are not illustrated.
The term "at least one" means one or more.
The aerosol device comprises at least one pressurized container comprising:
a) at least one composition comprising:
i) at least one anionic fixing polymer,
ii) at least one direct dye, and
iii) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol,
b) at least one propellant chosen from dimethyl ether,
the composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition a) according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, such as the hair.
In what follows, when the propellant(s) are present in the composition a), the total weight of the composition corresponds to the total weight of the composition a). When the propellant(s) are not present in the composition a), the total weight of the composition corresponds to the weight of the composition a) + the weight of the propellant(s).
Anionic fixing polymer:
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic fixing polymer.
The term "fixing polymer" refers to any polymer that is capable of giving shape to a head of hair or of maintaining a head of hair in a given shape.
Anionic fixing polymers that may be mentioned include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 000 000.
The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (I):
(I)
in which
n is an integer from 0 to 10,
A denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group, when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom, such as oxygen or sulfur,
R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group,
R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a carboxyl group,
R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a –CH2-COOH group, a phenyl group or a benzyl group.
In formula (I) above, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms may in particular denote methyl and ethyl groups.
The anionic fixing polymers bearing carboxylic or sulfonic groups that are preferred are:
A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof, including copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, and methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers, in particular Amerhold DR 25 sold by Amerchol, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, notably in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE, which are sold by BASF.
B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German patent application No. 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type including an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described notably in Luxembourgian patent applications 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate.
As another anionic fixing polymer from this family, mention may also be made of the butyl acrylate/acrylic acid/methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by Lubrizol (INCI name AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer).
C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those including vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allylic esters or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, such as those including at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products that fall within this category are the resins 28 29 30, 26 13 14 and 28 13 10 sold by National Starch.
Mention may also be made, as copolymer derived from crotonic acid, of crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate terpolymers, and in particular Mexomere PW supplied by Chimex.
D) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; these polymers may be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 113 and GB patent 839 805, and notably those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by ISP.
Polymers also falling within this category are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions being monoesterified or monoamidated. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the applicant.
E) polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.
F) polymers comprising sulfonic groups. These polymers may be polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic, acrylamidoalkylsulfonic or sulfoisophthalate units.
These polymers may notably be chosen from:
- polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100 000, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
- polystyrenesulfonic acid salts and sodium salts, having a molecular mass of about 500 000 and of about 100 000. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719;
- polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631;
G) grafted anionic silicone polymers.
The grafted silicone polymers used are preferentially chosen from polymers with a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, and mixtures thereof.
H) anionic polyurethanes, which may include silicone grafts and silicones bearing hydrocarbon-based grafts.
Examples of fixing polyurethanes that may notably be mentioned include the dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl glycol/polyester diols copolymer (also known under the name polyurethane-1, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® PUR by BASF, and the dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl glycol/polyester diols/silicone diamine copolymer (also known under the name polyurethane-6, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® Si PUR A by BASF.
Another anionic polyurethane that may also be used is Avalure UR 450.
Polymers containing sulfoisophthalate groups, such as the polymers AQ55 and AQ48 sold by Eastman, may also be used.
According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name Ultrahold Strong® by BASF, methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, in particular in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE sold by BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by ISP, Luviset SI PUR, Mexomere PW, anionic polyurethanes, elastomeric or otherwise, polymers containing sulfoisophthalate groups, anionic fixing polymers of family B), and even more particularly, crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by National Starch, are preferably used.
The total amount of fixing polymer(s) may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, with preference from 1.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Direct dye:
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one blue, green or purple and more particularly blue or purple direct dye.
The direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are preferably anionic or cationic and preferably anionic.
The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances. The term "anionic direct dye" means any direct dye including in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acid azo direct dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, xanthene dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
As anionic azo dyes, mention may be made of the dyes Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113 and Acid Blue 117.
As acid anthraquinone dyes, mention may be made of the dyes Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 (also called Ext Violet No. 2).
As examples of triarylmethane dyes, mention may be made of the dyes Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7; Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49.
As an example of xanthene dyes, mention may be made of: Acid Violet 9.
As an example of indole dyes, mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74.
As cationic direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the dyes Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14.
The preferred direct dyes are Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferentially Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62 and Acid Blue 9.
The direct dye(s) is (are) present in a total amount which may range from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better still from 0.0075% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the anionic direct dye(s) is (are) present in a total amount which may range from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better still from 0.0075% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
C2-C4 Monoalcohols
The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more C2-C4 monoalcohols.
The C2-C4 monoalcohols are notably chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol. Preferably, the monoalcohol used is ethanol.
The C2-C4 monoalcohols are generally present in a total amount ranging from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight and even more particularly ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives:
The compositions may also comprise at least one agent commonly used in cosmetics, for example chosen from reducing agents, organic solvents other than C2-C4 monoalcohols, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, silicones, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fatty esters, fatty ethers and pH modifiers, and mixtures thereof.
Organic solvents:
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents other than C2-C4 monoalcohols.
Mention may be made, as organic solvent, of polyols and polyol ethers such as pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, the organic solvents are present in a total content preferably of between 1% and 80% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially between 10% and 70% by weight approximately and even more particularly between 20% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may comprise water which is present in a content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
More preferentially, the composition does not comprise water added during the preparation of the composition. The water possibly present may correspond to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous (0% water).
Device:
The aerosol device comprises at least one pressurized container comprising at least one propellant chosen from dimethyl ether b).
The propellant(s) b) may optionally be present in the composition a) as previously described.
The container of the device according to the invention can have rigid walls and can directly contain the composition a).
As a variant, the container can have rigid walls and can contain a flexible-walled pouch which contains the composition a).
According to this configuration, the composition a) in the pouch may not comprise propellant b), the latter being in the volume defined between the rigid walls of the container and the pouch.
Preferably, the composition a) contained in the pouch itself also comprises at least one propellant b).
Preferably, the composition a) comprises one or more propellants b), and is directly contained in the container of the device.
The device comprises a means for delivering the compositions, the means comprising at least one dispensing valve which surmounts the container.
The valve is in selective fluidic communication with the inside of the container via a valve inlet orifice, the communication being established in response to the actuation of an actuation means, such as a push-button.
When the device comprises a rigid-walled container which contains a flexible pouch, the valve is then equipped with two inlet orifices, one of the orifices being able to communicate with the inside of the pouch and the other being able to communicate with the volume defined between the pouch and the rigid walls of the container.
When the container does not contain a pouch, it is equipped with a dip tube which makes it possible to convey the composition to the inlet orifice of the dispensing valve.
When the container contains a pouch, the inlet orifice of the valve opens into the pouch.
The device can comprise at least one diffuser which caps the valve. The push-button may form part of the diffuser.
The diffuser may be equipped with one or more dispensing pipe(s) provided to convey the composition(s) up to one or more dispensing orifices.
Documents US 3 917 121, US 4 720 046 and WO 00/76880 disclose examples of devices.
The diffuser may comprise a single outlet orifice and diffusion branches that radiate from said orifice. As a variant, the diffuser comprises a plurality of outlet orifices. Advantageously, the outlet orifices may be arranged so as to obtain a diffusion grille.
Preferably, the pressurized container of the device according to the invention has rigid walls and directly contains the composition a).
Preferably, composition a) comprises only dimethyl ether b) as propellant.
Dimethyl ether is present in the pressurized container according to the invention preferably in a total content ranging from 25% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, better still from 35% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (packaged in the aerosol device). When the propellant(s) are present in the composition a), the total weight of the composition corresponds to the total weight of the composition a). When the propellant(s) are not present in the composition a), the total weight of the composition corresponds to the weight of the composition a) + the weight of the propellant(s).
Preferably, dimethyl ether b) is present in the pressurized container according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 25% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, better still from 35% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition a).
When dimethyl ether present in the composition a), the total amount of anionic fixing polymer may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition a), preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition a), with preference from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition a).
When dimethyl ether is present in the composition a), the total amount of direct dye(s) may range from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better still from 0.0075% to 0.5% relative to the total weight of the composition a).
The composition may also comprise one or more propellants other than dimethyl ether. The additional propellants may be chosen from liquefied gases and compressed gases.
Mention may be made, by way of examples of liquefied gases, of chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons, such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, 1-chloro-1,1-difluoroethane or 1,1-difluoroethane, or volatile hydrocarbons, such as, in particular, C3-C5 alkanes, such as propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane or pentane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbons are chosen from propane, isopropane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof.
When the device comprises one or more additional propellants of liquefied gas type, the total content of propellants (that is to say the total content of dimethyl ether + other propellant(s)) preferably ranges from 25% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, better still from 35% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As compressed gases, mention may also be made of nitrogen, air and CO2, and mixtures thereof.
When the device comprises one or more additional propellants of compressed gas type, the content of compressed gases preferably ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The propellants are pressurized, more particularly at least partially in liquid form.
Advantageously, the composition which is delivered from the pressurized container is in liquid form.
Process:
Another subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition delivered from a device as defined above.
The composition delivered by the aerosol device described above can be used on dry keratin fibres, preferably natural or bleached of blond and white light colours. Preferably, the keratin fibres have a tone depth of greater than or equal to 7, better still greater than 8, preferentially greater than 9. The "tone" depths are based on the classification of natural shades from 1 to 10, a tone separating each shade from the one immediately following or preceding it (see "Science des Traitements Capillaires" [Science of Hair Treatments] by C. Zviak, published by Masson 1988, p. 278).
By virtue of the device according to the invention, the application is uniform over the whole of the head of hair.
The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.
Example 1
The compositions according to the invention A to D were prepared.
Compositions (g/100 g) AM: Active material
A B C D
VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer 2.6 2.6 1.3 5.2
Aminomethyl Propanol 0.27 0.27 0.13 0.54
Ethanol Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100
Ext. Violet 2 / CI 60730 0.01 0.01
Acid Blue 9 / CI 42090 0.01
Acid Blue 62 CI 62045 0.01
Dimethyl Ether 45 45 55 35
Fragrance/Parfum 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14
The compositions were packaged in a can with the following equipment:
Valve: Precision IN - Inner Nozzle - 0.33/ IR - Inner Restriction - 0.33 stem 3.3 and an Aptar Microdiffuser with nozzle DU3832 (0.38 mm)
The aerosol device according to the invention is actuated and the mixture is delivered in spray form.
Composition A was sprayed for 5 seconds onto each of the 2 sides of locks of 27 cm long bleached Caucasian hair (alkaline solubility 50) weighing 1 g, at a distance of 20 cm.
After drying, colorimetric measurements were taken using a Konica-Minolta -Post FR-C-MCI-0788 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular components included) in the CIELab system.
In this system, a* represents the green-red axis, b* represents the blue-yellow axis. The chromaticity C* is calculated according to the formula:
C* = (a*2 + b*2)1/2.
The lower the value of C*, the lower the chromaticity, and the less the yellow and/or orangey tints are visible:
C*
Before application of composition A 26.9
After 1 application of composition A 22.7
The value of C* is significantly lower after application of composition A: the colour is less chromatic.
It is also observed visually that the unsightly yellow and/or orangey tints are markedly reduced and that the bleached hair has a more natural visual appearance.
The distribution of the product along the locks is homogeneous. The colour is therefore more uniform.
In addition, the fixing is natural and allows the hairstyle to be held.
Example 2
Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B were prepared.
Compositions (g/100 g) AM: Active material
[00125] A
B
VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer 2.6 2.6
Aminomethyl Propanol 0.14 0.14
Ext. Violet 2 0.01 0.01
Water/Aqua - 5
Fragrance/Parfum 0.28 0.28
Dimethyl Ether 45 45
Ethanol Qs 100 Qs 100
The compositions were packaged in a can with the following equipment:
Valve: Coster IN - Inner Nozzle - 0.42/ IR - Inner Restriction - 1.6 butyl stem 3.3 and an Aptar Microdiffuser with nozzle DU3832 (0.38 mm)
The aerosol device according to the invention is actuated and the mixture is delivered in spray form.
2.4 g of composition A was sprayed onto each of the 2 sides of locks of 18 cm long washed and dried yak hair weighing 2.6 g, at a distance of 15 cm.
A panel of 5 experts evaluated the neutralization of the unsightly tints, the presence of residues and the suppleness of dry hair, in a blind test. Each of the 5 experts ranked and then scored each of the locks, assigning a score from 0 for the lowest performing side to 5 for the highest performing side.
Neutralization of unsightly tints
To evaluate the quality of the neutralization, each expert observes the lock just after application of the composition, evaluating the neutralizing effect on the lock (less yellow, more natural colour).
[00132] A
B
Expert 1 4 2
Expert 2 4 1
Expert 3 5 3
Expert 4 4 3
Expert 5 4 3.5
Average 4.2 2.25
Standard deviation 0.4 1.0
100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the invention A made it possible to obtain better deyellowing.
Residues/particles
To evaluate the residues, each expert observes the lock just after application of the composition, evaluating the quantity of particles visible on the lock. The higher the score, the less residue there is.
A
B
Expert 1 4 3
Expert 2 5 1
Expert 3 5 2
Expert 4 4 1
Expert 5 4.5 4
Average 4.5 2.2
Standard deviation 0.5 1.3
100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the composition according to the invention A has virtually no visible particles after application.
Suppleness
To assess suppleness, the expert takes the lock between the thumb and index finger, folds the lock in two, and evaluates the resistance to folding. The higher the score, the easier the folding, and thus the more supple the lock.
A
B
Expert 1 3 2
Expert 2 3 1
Expert 3 4 1
Expert 4 3 2
Expert 5 3 2
Average 3.2 1.6
Standard deviation 0.4 0.5
100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the invention A made it possible to obtain a more supple feel and therefore to have a more natural, less set visual appearance.

Claims (15)

  1. Aerosol device comprising:
    - at least one pressurized container comprising:
    a) at least one composition comprising:
    i) at least one anionic fixing polymer,
    ii) at least one direct dye from among blue, green or purple dyes, and
    iii) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol,
    b) at least one propellant chosen from dimethyl ether,
    the composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
    - a means for delivering the composition.
  2. Device according to Claim 1, characterized in that said anionic fixing polymer(s) is (are) chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers or salts thereof, crotonic acid copolymers, polyacrylamides bearing carboxylate groups, homopolymers or copolymers bearing sulfonic groups, anionic polyurethanes, and anionic grafted silicone polymers, preferably from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers or salts thereof and crotonic acid copolymers.
  3. Device according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said anionic fixing polymer(s) are chosen from terpolymers of crotonic acid, of vinyl acetate, and of vinyl neodecanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  4. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic fixing polymer(s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, with preference from 1.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  5. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one direct dye chosen from anionic direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
  6. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one direct dye chosen from Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferentially Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62 and Acid Blue 9.
  7. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises the direct dye(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better still from 0.0075% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  8. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol, and preferably ethanol.
  9. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, and more preferentially from 20% to 70% by weight and even more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  10. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that dimethyl ether is present in a total amount ranging from 25% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, better still from 35% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the container has rigid walls and directly contains the composition a) comprising dimethyl ether b).
  12. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is anhydrous.
  13. Process for treating keratin fibres, such as the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of a composition delivered from a device according to any one of the preceding claims.
  14. Process for neutralizing the yellow and/or orangey tints of keratin fibres such as the hair, which have been previously bleached and/or are natural, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition delivered from a device according to any one of Claims 1 to 11.
  15. Process for shaping keratin fibres such as the hair, which have been previously bleached and/or are natural, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition delivered from a device according to any one of Claims 1 to 12.
PCT/EP2023/084577 2022-12-09 2023-12-06 Aerosol device based on anionic fixing polymer, direct dye, monoalcohol and dimethyl ether Ceased WO2024121250A1 (en)

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CN202380083853.3A CN120379632A (en) 2022-12-09 2023-12-06 Aerosol device based on anionic styling polymer, direct dye, monohydric alcohol and dimethyl ether

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FR2213054A FR3142899B1 (en) 2022-12-09 2022-12-09 AEROSOL DEVICE BASED ON ANIONIC FIXING POLYMER, DIRECT DYE, MONOALCOHOL AND DIMETHYLETHER
FRFR2213054 2022-12-09

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