WO2024105709A1 - Cluster setting for jewelry - Google Patents
Cluster setting for jewelry Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2024105709A1 WO2024105709A1 PCT/IT2023/050252 IT2023050252W WO2024105709A1 WO 2024105709 A1 WO2024105709 A1 WO 2024105709A1 IT 2023050252 W IT2023050252 W IT 2023050252W WO 2024105709 A1 WO2024105709 A1 WO 2024105709A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- gemstones
- gemstone
- setting
- center
- cluster
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Ceased
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
- A44C17/046—Setting gems in a plurality of non coplanar table top planes
Definitions
- the present invention generally relates to a jewelry setting for supporting and fixing in place gemstones such as diamonds or other faceted precious and/or decorative stones, and more particularly to a jewelry setting of the so-called 'cluster' type.
- a cluster setting comprises a center gemstone, with a round brilliant cut, which is surrounded by smaller gemstones, also with a round brilliant cut.
- the purpose of adding and arranging smaller gemstones around a center gemstone is not only to enhance the center gemstone, but also to create the illusion that the cluster consists of a single large gemstone. In this manner, by using low-value gemstones, it is possible to enhance the appearance of the center gemstone and achieve a visual effect like that produced by a single high-value gemstone.
- Cluster mountings can be broadly classified into mountings with a pressure setting and mountings with a prong setting.
- a cluster mounting with a conventional pressure setting the smaller side gemstones surrounding the center gemstone are fixed in place by metal protrusions arranged on the edge of the mounting, while a portion of the pavilion of these gemstones rests and presses against a corresponding portion of the crown of the center gemstone, so that the center gemstone can be held in place by the pressure exerted jointly by all the side gemstones.
- Patent publication US7762104B2 provides an example of a cluster mounting with a pressure setting of this kind.
- Patent publication US1252966A provides another example of a cluster mounting with a prong setting of the kind referred to above.
- a cluster mounting with a pressure setting has the great advantage of allowing the center gemstone to be mounted without using metal prongs to secure it in place. Moreover, by setting the edges of the smaller side gemstone over the edge of the larger center gemstone the overall brilliance is increased and the distance between the gemstones is reduced.
- the fastening of the latter is sometimes unsatisfactory, especially when the center gemstone is not round-cut, and in the event of an accidental impact against a hard object, the center gemstone or the side gemstones may come off from the setting. For this reason, it is generally problematic to ensure a consistently high quality of a cluster mounting with a pressure setting.
- a prong setting obviates the aforementioned drawback, but the prongs surrounding the center gemstone and the side gemstones often stand out to the eye of an observer and prevent the transmission of light between adjacent mounted gemstones due to the presence of metal (i.e., the prongs themselves) between the gemstones. As a result, the overall luster of the cluster of gemstones is reduced and the setting may exhibit an undesirable metallic and hazy appearance.
- the overlap of the center gemstone over the outer gemstones understood as the percentage of crown and table surface area of each side gemstone that is covered by the center gemstone, is generally no more than 5 percent.
- the object of the present invention is to provide a cluster mounting with a prong setting wherein the amount of visible metal prongs utilized between the gemstones is minimized, so as not to impair the aesthetic appearance of the cluster mounting and to increase the light transmissibility, and yet is capable of ensuring at the same time a secure support and setting for the gemstones.
- Another object of the invention is to make a cluster mounting with a prong setting wherein at least part of the prongs that hold the side gemstones in place is invisible, or at least barely visible to an observer's eye, because they are concealed under the pavilion of the center gemstone which extends over and covers at least partially the side gemstones.
- Still another object of the invention is to provide a cluster mounting with a prong setting wherein the height difference between the table surface of the center gemstone and that of the side gemstones is minimized, in order to improve the aesthetic appearance of the cluster of gemstones and make it appear as similar as possible to a single large gemstone.
- a further object of the invention is to provide a cluster mounting with a prong setting that produces a visual effect which is equal, if not superior, to a cluster mounting with a pressure setting, but provides a more secure attachment of the gemstones.
- a cluster setting for jewelry characterized in that it comprises a setting structure with a center gemstone having a first cut and a plurality of side gemstones of substantially the same shape arranged around said center gemstone and having a second cut that is different from that of the center gemstone, said setting structure including a first prong setting for holding in place said center gemstone and a second prong setting for holding in place said side gemstones, wherein each of said side gemstones is a round brilliant cut gemstone or an oval brilliant cut gemstone with a substantially flat sectioned portion created thereon, said flat sectioned portion having generally rounded or sharp edges, said side gemstones being juxtaposed so as to surround with their flat sectioned portions the pavilion of said center gemstone and being selectively and cooperatively oriented with respect to each other, around a central axis perpendicular to the plane of the table thereof, to form gaps for inserting prongs holding in place said center gemstone, said center gemstone being held in place in said setting structure so that its edge or border at least partially overlaps said side
- Another advantageous feature of using side gemstones having a substantially flat sectioned portion is that, even with a small overlap of the center gemstone over the side gemstones, the impression is created in the observer that the center gemstone covers a greater part of the side gemstones, which one may think as having a conventional round brilliant cut, yet with a very small height difference between the table surface of the center gemstone and that of the side gemstones.
- the side gemstones thus appear to be arranged closer around the center gemstone, more covered and at approximately the same height thereof, and the visual effect of a single gemstone created by the cluster of gemstones is considerably enhanced.
- the center gemstone has a round brilliant cut
- side gemstones with a sectioned portion according to the teachings of the present invention, a larger center gemstone can be used, for the same diameter of the setting structure, and the result can be achieved that the diameter of the center gemstone is at least 53-60 percent of the diameter of the cluster of gemstones, thereby reproducing the conventional cutting proportions of a single large gemstone.
- This result would not be achievable if conventional round brilliant cut gemstones were used for the side gemstones, as is traditionally the case in the creation of cluster mountings with known prong settings.
- Fig. 1 is a top plan view of a first embodiment of the cluster setting for jewelry according to the present invention
- Fig. 2 is a side elevation view of the cluster setting of Fig. 1,
- Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the cluster setting of Fig. 1,
- Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the cluster setting of Fig. 1 illustrated without the gemstones,
- Figs. 5A-D show two examples of side gemstones which can be used in the cluster setting according to the invention.
- Figs. 6A-C illustrate, in a comparative manner, the differences between a cluster setting according to the invention and a known cluster setting of conventional type
- Fig. 7 is a top plan view of a second embodiment of the cluster setting for jewelry according to the present invention.
- Fig. 8 is a side elevation view of the cluster setting of Fig. 7,
- Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the cluster setting of Fig. 7,
- Figs. 10A-H show some examples of other possible embodiments of the cluster setting for jewelry according to the present invention, with center gemstones having distinct types of cuts,
- Figs. 11-15 are a side elevation view, a perspective view from below, a bottom plan view, a perspective view from above and, respectively, a top plan view of a cluster setting according to another embodiment of the invention.
- Figs. 16-19 are a side elevation view, a perspective view from below, a bottom plan view and, respectively, a top plan view of a cluster setting according to a further embodiment of the invention. Description of Preferred Embodiments of the Invention
- a first exemplary embodiment of a cluster setting having a setting structure according to the present invention generally indicated by 10.
- a center gemstone 11 having a first cut
- a plurality of side gemstones 12 of substantially the same shape, arranged around the center gemstone 11 and having a second cut which is different from that of the center gemstone 11.
- the center gemstone 11 has a round brilliant cut, but the invention is not limited to this type of cut of the center gemstone 11, and in other embodiments of the invention, which will be illustrated hereafter, the center gemstone 11 may exhibit a different cut from a round brilliant cut.
- the cut of the side gemstones 12 is in any case different from that of the center gemstone 11 and, as will become apparent hereafter, has peculiar features which allow solving the aforementioned technical problems of a cluster mounting with prong settings according to the prior art.
- the number of side gemstones 12 may vary depending on their size, as well as the cut and size of the center gemstone 11 , and the example of Figs. 1 -4 should not be understood as limiting the number and arrangement of the side gemstones 12 in the setting structure 10.
- the setting structure 10 comprises a central cavity 13 suitable for forming a receiving or setting seat for the center gemstone 11, and a plurality of peripheral cavities 14, arranged around said central cavity 13 and each suitable for forming a receiving or setting seat for a corresponding side gemstone 12.
- the center gemstone 11 is held in place by suitable prongs 15 arranged in a regular manner around the central cavity 13.
- the side gemstones 12 are held in place in the corresponding peripheral cavities 14 by a first series of prongs 16, arranged in a regular manner along the edge or border of the setting structure 10, and by a second series of prongs 17, arranged in a regular manner around the central cavity 13, in alternating sequence with the prongs 15 that secure the center gemstone 11.
- the prongs 17 have a smaller height than the prongs 15, so that they can be covered by the pavilion of the center gemstone 11 and be generally invisible when the center gemstone 11 is set in the central cavity 13.
- the top and side surfaces of the prongs 15, 16 are preferably machined in such a way as to exhibit a faceted pattern that resembles the surface of a gemstone.
- the side gemstones 12 have a sectioned portion having a substantially flat shape, so as to exhibit a profile of an approximately half-round or half-oval gemstone.
- half-moon or half-oval cut side gemstones 12 are juxtaposed in the setting structure 10 so as to surround the pavilion of the center gemstone 11.
- the use of half-moon or half-oval cut side gemstones 12 allows for the formation of large gaps for the arrangement of strong prongs 15 for mounting the center gemstone 11.
- These gaps highlighted with an oval and denoted by 21 in Fig. 6 A, are formed by selectively and cooperatively orienting adjacent side gemstones 12, in relation to each other, around a central axis perpendicular to their table surface.
- the aforementioned gaps 21 can be formed by virtue of the peculiar feature that the side gemstones 12 have a substantially flat sectioned portion 18, i.e., a halfmoon or half-oval cut.
- the side gemstones 12 had a round brilliant cut, as shown in Fig. 6B, due to the symmetry of the round cut, it would be impossible to form, at the same point highlighted by the oval, suitable gaps that allow the positioning of the prongs 15 for mounting a center gemstone 11 with the same size as that shown in Fig. 6A. It would, in fact, be necessary to reduce the size of the center gemstone 11, as illustrated in Fig. 6C, or the size of the side gemstones 12, so as to create gaps 21 sufficiently large to accommodate the prongs 15 used to secure the center gemstone 11.
- the need to use a smaller center gemstone 11 in order to create the spaces for the prongs 15 would prevent achieving the goal of having a center gemstone 11 with a diameter that represents about 53- 60 percent of the total diameter of the cluster of gemstones, in order to reproduce the appearance of a single large gemstone.
- the creation of gaps for placing the prongs 15 holding the center gemstone 11 is greatly simplified and, in addition, a larger center gemstone 11 can be mounted in order to increase the luster of the cluster of gemstones and more closely resemble the appearance a single large gemstone.
- the center gemstone 11 with a diameter that can cover from 50 to 60 percent of the diameter of the cluster, can be mounted in the setting structure, so that the optimal cut proportions of a single large gemstone can be simulated. This is particularly convenient because a larger center gemstone 11 provides a deeper luster to the cluster of gemstones. In contrast, in traditional cluster mountings with a prong setting, wherein side gemstones 12 having a round brilliant cut are used, the center gemstone 11 is usually no more than 40 percent of the diameter of the cluster.
- side gemstones 12 having a half-moon or half-oval cut also allows the central gemstone 11 to be overlapped, at least partially, although more easily, over the side gemstones
- a center gemstone 11 having a round brilliant cut and six identically shaped side gemstone 12, arranged around the center gemstone 11 and having a halfmoon or half-oval cut, as described above, are mounted on the setting structure 10.
- the side gemstones 12 are larger and therefore have a greater luster than those used in the setting of Figs. 1-4 described previously, while the center gemstone 11 is necessarily smaller for a setting structure 10 having the same diameter. In this case, the cost, as well as the luster, of center gemstone 11 will generally be lower.
- the invention applies not only to cluster settings with a center gemstone 11 having a round brilliant cut, as shown in Figs. 1 or 7.
- a center gemstone 11 having a round brilliant cut
- Figs. 10A-H gemstones with oval, heart, pear and many other known cuts can be used for the center gemstone 11.
- the setting structure according to the invention can be attached to a ring, pendant, earring, necklace, bracelet, or any other kind of ornament.
- the invention is equally applicable to a setting structure having a pattern of openings therein as shown, for example, in Figs. 11-19 of the drawings and denoted by 110.
- the setting structure 110 of Figs. 11-19 consists of a hollow conical metal body with a pavilion 122 having a pattern of openings therethrough and a gemstone-holder base 123 with suitable sockets 124 for supporting the gemstones 111 and 112.
- the pavilion of the setting structure 110 is faceted to simulate the pavilion of a gemstone.
- the setting structure 110 can be configured to support a cluster of gemstones comprising, for example, seven gemstones, as shown in Figs. 11-15, or nine gemstones, as shown in Figs. 16- 19. In Figs. 15 and 19, the setting structure 110 is shown without the center gemstone 111 in order to show more clearly the arrangement of the setting prongs.
- the center gemstone 111 is held by three prongs 115 arranged regularly around the socket 124 supporting said center gemstone 111, while the side gemstones 112 are retained by six prongs 116 arranged on the edge of the setting structure 110 and three prongs 117 that are arranged in alternating sequence with the prongs 115 and are smaller in height than the latter, so that they can be concealed under the pavilion of the center gemstone 111 when this is mounted on the setting structure 110.
- the center gemstone 111 is held by four prongs 115 arranged regularly around the socket 124 supporting said center gemstone 111, while the side gemstones 112 are held by eight prongs 116 arranged on the edge of the setting structure 110 and four prongs 117 arranged regularly around the socket 124 supporting said center gemstone 111.
- the prongs 117 are arranged in alternating sequence with the prongs 115, and being smaller in height than the latter, they are concealed under the pavilion of the central gem 111 when it is mounted on the setting structure 110.
- the setting structure 110 can be created with present computerized numerical control (CNC) machine tools.
- CNC computerized numerical control
- the advantage of using a CNC machine tool is that it allows all facets of the setting structure 110 to be given a luster finish.
- the entire setting structure is given a high luster on each facet of the pavilion, and the luster of the metal contributes to the impression of one large gemstone.
- the presence of openings in the pavilion of the setting structure allows for light to penetrate through the openings under the gemstones 111 and 112, thereby greatly increasing the luster of the cluster of gemstones.
- the invention achieves its intended aims.
- the use of side gemstones with a flat sectioned portion arranged around a center gemstone in a cluster setting allows for the mounting of a center gemstone large enough to take up from 50 to 60 percent of the total diameter of the cluster of gemstones and produces in the observer the impression that the center gemstone covers up to 40 percent of the side gemstones, and also allows for an operatively simpler and more effective creation of gaps large enough to place strong prongs for securing the center gemstone.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202380078782.8A CN120302909A (en) | 2022-11-15 | 2023-11-14 | A group setting structure for jewelry |
| EP23818559.9A EP4618802A1 (en) | 2022-11-15 | 2023-11-14 | Cluster setting for jewelry |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| IT102022000023448A IT202200023448A1 (en) | 2022-11-15 | 2022-11-15 | JEWELRY CLUSTER MOUNTING |
| IT102022000023448 | 2022-11-15 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2024105709A1 true WO2024105709A1 (en) | 2024-05-23 |
Family
ID=85121945
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IT2023/050252 Ceased WO2024105709A1 (en) | 2022-11-15 | 2023-11-14 | Cluster setting for jewelry |
Country Status (4)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP4618802A1 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN120302909A (en) |
| IT (1) | IT202200023448A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2024105709A1 (en) |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US1252966A (en) | 1917-10-11 | 1918-01-08 | Abraham Suderov | Setting for precious stones. |
| US7762104B2 (en) | 2007-08-31 | 2010-07-27 | Shenzhen Y&M Industry Co., Ltd. | Modular setting diamond jewelry |
| EP2425736A2 (en) * | 2010-09-02 | 2012-03-07 | Vilmas GmbH | Piece of jewellery |
| US20150342310A1 (en) * | 2015-06-24 | 2015-12-03 | Ktl Jewellery Trading Ltd. | Combinative Diamond Jewelry and Making Method Thereof |
| US9351546B2 (en) | 2014-07-22 | 2016-05-31 | M/s. Sunjewels Pvt. Ltd. | Mirage effect jewellery |
-
2022
- 2022-11-15 IT IT102022000023448A patent/IT202200023448A1/en unknown
-
2023
- 2023-11-14 CN CN202380078782.8A patent/CN120302909A/en active Pending
- 2023-11-14 EP EP23818559.9A patent/EP4618802A1/en active Pending
- 2023-11-14 WO PCT/IT2023/050252 patent/WO2024105709A1/en not_active Ceased
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US1252966A (en) | 1917-10-11 | 1918-01-08 | Abraham Suderov | Setting for precious stones. |
| US7762104B2 (en) | 2007-08-31 | 2010-07-27 | Shenzhen Y&M Industry Co., Ltd. | Modular setting diamond jewelry |
| EP2425736A2 (en) * | 2010-09-02 | 2012-03-07 | Vilmas GmbH | Piece of jewellery |
| US9351546B2 (en) | 2014-07-22 | 2016-05-31 | M/s. Sunjewels Pvt. Ltd. | Mirage effect jewellery |
| US20150342310A1 (en) * | 2015-06-24 | 2015-12-03 | Ktl Jewellery Trading Ltd. | Combinative Diamond Jewelry and Making Method Thereof |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| IT202200023448A1 (en) | 2024-05-15 |
| CN120302909A (en) | 2025-07-11 |
| EP4618802A1 (en) | 2025-09-24 |
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