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WO2024199789A1 - Conditionneur de protection des couleurs - Google Patents

Conditionneur de protection des couleurs Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024199789A1
WO2024199789A1 PCT/EP2024/053087 EP2024053087W WO2024199789A1 WO 2024199789 A1 WO2024199789 A1 WO 2024199789A1 EP 2024053087 W EP2024053087 W EP 2024053087W WO 2024199789 A1 WO2024199789 A1 WO 2024199789A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
oil
dimethylamine
agent according
acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2024/053087
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Kirsten Sartingen
Gabriele Weser
Imme Breuer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of WO2024199789A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024199789A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the application relates to hair treatment compositions for reducing and/or preventing bleeding and/or fading of artificially produced hair colors, which have a pH value in the range of 4.5 to 5.5 and contain a specific active ingredient mixture of aminoamine(s), cationic polysaccharide polymers, vegetable oil(s) and wax(es).
  • unwanted color change refers to fading or bleeding as well as the loss of color brilliance of the hair color achieved by the respective coloring. Environmental influences and/or exposure to the sun can intensify these changes.
  • a conditioner for protecting colored hair is disclosed under the entry number (Record ID) 9840990. This contains coconut oil, shea butter and rooibos extract and gives colored hair more vitality, volume and a silky shine.
  • the conditioner is only partially suitable for the treatment of colored hair that has been dyed with different hair dye systems. For example, the color retention of hair dyed with pigment hair dyes was not satisfactory.
  • the aim of the present invention was to provide a hair treatment product that is easy and quick to use and has a long shelf life, which can be used to strengthen the adhesion of dyes to the hair fibers and thus maintain the authenticity of the artificially produced hair color.
  • the hair treatment product should generally be suitable for use on colored hair, regardless of which hair dye known from the state of the art was used to color it.
  • the hair treatment products should have excellent care properties and protect the hair structure. It has been found that a hair treatment product which has a pH value in a specific pH range and which contains vegetable oil(s) and wax(es) in addition to cationic or cationizable components is ideally suited for this purpose.
  • a first subject matter of the invention is therefore a hair treatment agent for reducing and/or preventing the bleeding and/or fading of artificially produced hair colors, which comprises an aqueous cosmetic carrier and a) has a pH value in the range of 4.5 to 5.5, and b) contains at least one amidoamine, c) at least one cationic polysaccharide polymer d) at least one vegetable oil, e) at least one wax.
  • Suitable hair treatment products are preferably understood to mean hair care products such as hair treatments, conditioners or hair care sprays as well as hair styling products such as hair gels, hair sprays or hair waxes.
  • the hair treatment product is particularly preferably a hair care product. It is very particularly preferred that the hair care product is used after bleaching, coloring and/or permanent shaping (perming or straightening) of the hair.
  • the hair treatment product is particularly preferably used after hair coloring with a pigment-based hair dye.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention are stable in storage and protect colored hair excellently against significant color loss or color change, even after multiple washings. Even colored hair that has been colored with pigment hair dyes can be protected against color loss/color change when washing the hair by using the hair treatment agents according to the invention.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention give colored hair a particularly soft feel, smoothness and shine.
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention comprise an aqueous cosmetic carrier.
  • the cosmetic carrier can be, for example, aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • Suitable carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or foaming solutions containing surfactants.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are understood to mean in particular aqueous solutions containing 0 to 70% by weight of a Ci-C4 alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention can additionally contain further organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol or glycerin. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. Solvent. Glycerin is particularly preferred, which - based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent - can preferably be used in a weight proportion of 0.1 to 10 wt.%.
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention have a) a pH value in the range of 4.5 to 5.5.
  • the pH value is an important influencing factor in the color protection of colored hair.
  • the bleeding of the colored hair fibers could also be suppressed as best as possible.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention is characterized in that it has a) a pH value in the range from 4.6 to 5.4, very particularly preferably from 4.7 to 5.3 and especially preferably from 4.8 to 5.2.
  • the pH value can be measured, for example, using a glass electrode, which is usually commercially available in the form of a combination electrode. Before measuring the pH value, the glass electrodes are usually calibrated with calibration solutions of known pH value.
  • the pH values in the sense of the present invention are understood to be pH values that were measured at a temperature of 22 °C.
  • Acidifying agents can be used to adjust the pH value essential to the invention or preferred.
  • Acidifying agents preferred according to the invention are, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid or diluted mineral acids.
  • hair treatment products are adjusted to pH values in the slightly acidic range, it may still be necessary to use alkalizing agents in small quantities to fine-tune the pH value.
  • Alkalizing agents suitable according to the invention can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal phosphates and alkali metal hydrogen phosphates.
  • Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate.
  • Organic alkalizing agents that can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol and triethanolamine.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention contain cationic or cationizable components selected from b) at least one amidoamine and c) at least one cationic polysaccharide polymer.
  • the hair treatment products according to the invention can not only support color protection, but also improve the care performance of the products.
  • Treated hair is antistatic and has a pleasant feel and softness.
  • amidoamides b) means amidoamines, permanently cationic amidoamines or mixtures thereof. Thus, an amidoamine can be a mixture of different amidoamines.
  • Amidoamines b) suitable according to the invention can be selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, dimethylamine, Arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, Arachidamidopropyl diethylamine , Arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, Arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine, Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, Lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, Myrista
  • a permanent cationic amidoamine can be selected from bis-(isostearoyl/oleylisopropyl)dimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl-hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, quaternium-33, behenamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, behenamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, oleamidopropyl- PG-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, rinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropylethyld
  • amidoamine b) is cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidaidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine or any mixture thereof.
  • Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is particularly preferred.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as amidoamine b) cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidylamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine or any mixtures thereof.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain the component(s) b) - based on their total weight - preferably in a weight proportion of 1 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 1.25 to 4 wt.%, further preferably from 1.5 to 3.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 1.75 to 3 wt.%.
  • Cationic polysaccharide polymers c) suitable according to the invention are understood to mean: quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®, cationic starch derivatives, such as those commercially available under the name Mirustyle®, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example the cationic polymers sold under the trade name SoftCat®, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, canonized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia®Guar, N-Hance®, Polycare® or Jaguar®, cationic cassia and/or inulin derivatives, for example the cationic polymers known under the INCI names Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin, and any mixtures thereof.
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as those commercially available under the names Celquat
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain one or more cationic guar polymers, in particular products known under the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains c) one or more cationic guar polymers, in particular compounds known under the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain the component(s) c) - based on their total weight - preferably in a weight proportion of 0.01 to 2 wt.%, more preferably from 0.025 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1 wt.%.
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention very particularly preferably contain cationic guar polymers - in particular under the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride - in the amounts mentioned above.
  • hair treatment products according to the invention contain at least one vegetable oil d) and at least one wax e).
  • the hair treatment products according to the invention not only support color protection, but also further improve the care performance of the products. Treated hair is therefore easier to comb, smooth, soft and shiny.
  • Vegetable oils d) suitable according to the invention are understood to mean vegetable oils which are preferably liquid at 20°C and which can be selected from amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango seed oil, marula oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buck
  • Vegetable oils d that are quickly absorbed into the scalp and/or hair are particularly preferred, as hair dyes usually stress and dry out the scalp and hair.
  • vegetable oils d) with a high content of low to medium fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid
  • these have an antibacterial effect and in particular soothe itchy and flaky scalp.
  • Coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil) is a particularly preferred vegetable oil d).
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains d) coconut oil.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain the at least one vegetable oil d) - based on their total weight - preferably in a weight proportion of 0.5 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.6 to 4 wt.%, further preferably 0.7 to 3 wt.% and very particularly preferably 0.8 to 2 wt.%.
  • Hair treatment compositions according to the invention most preferably contain coconut oil in the amounts mentioned above.
  • Suitable waxes e) within the meaning of the present invention are natural, synthetic and/or mineral waxes which have a melting point in the range of 40°C to 90°C.
  • waxes have a solid to brittle consistency, are coarse to finely crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not glassy, and melt above 40°C without decomposing. They are already slightly above the melting point and have a low viscosity and a consistency and solubility that is strongly dependent on temperature.
  • Suitable waxes according to the invention are natural vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugar cane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange wax, lemon wax, grapefruit wax, animal waxes such as beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti, hydrogenated or hardened waxes and chemically modified waxes, in particular hard waxes such as montan ester waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes, polyalkylene waxes, in particular polyethylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes,
  • C2o-C4o-dialkyl esters of dimer acids Cso-so-alkyl beeswax as well as alkyl and alkylaryl esters of dimer fatty acids and any mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred wax components in the sense of the present invention are selected from esters of saturated, monovalent Ci2-Cso alcohols and saturated Cs-Cse monocarboxylic acids. According to the invention, these also include lactides, the cyclic double esters of alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length. Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols have proven to be particularly advantageous for the compositions preferred according to the invention.
  • the esters are composed of saturated, branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated, branched or unbranched monovalent alcohols.
  • Esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (such as 2-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols can also be used according to the invention, provided that the resulting wax component has a melting point > 40°C.
  • Particularly preferred wax components in this context are esters of saturated, branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 12 to 24 C atoms and saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 16 to 50 C atoms, in particular esters of saturated, branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 12-18 C atoms and saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 12-18 C atoms, provided they have a melting point > 40°C.
  • wax components in this context are, for example, C16-36-alkyl stearates and C18-38-alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, C20-40-alkyl erucates and cetearyl behenate. These wax components have a melting point of > 50°C, preferably > 60°C.
  • Corresponding commercial products are known under the names Kesterwachs® K82H or Kesterwachs® K80H (Koster Keunen Inc.).
  • triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C12-30 fatty acids such as hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin) or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, as well as synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycols or polyols with 2-6 carbon atoms, as long as they have a melting point above 40°C.
  • Suitable wax components with a melting point in the range of 40-90°C are linear, saturated Cs-so fatty acids.
  • Linear, saturated Cio-22 fatty acids are preferred.
  • Preferred fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, as well as technical mixtures thereof.
  • the use of stearic acid is particularly preferred.
  • the fatty acids used can carry one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component is selected from esters of a saturated, monovalent Cie-Ceo-alkanol and a saturated Ce-Cse-monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl palmitate, cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C2o-C4o-alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12-C30- Carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear Ci4-C36 carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
  • the wax component is selected from esters of a saturated, monovalent Cie-Ceo-alkanol and a saturated Ce-Cse-monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl palmitate, cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C2o-C4o-alkyl stearate,
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component is selected from esters of saturated, monovalent Cie-Ceo alkanols and saturated Cs-Cse monocarboxylic acids, in particular cetyl palmitate, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, glycerol triesters of saturated linear Ci2-C3o carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, in particular hydrogenated castor oil, and saturated linear C14-C36 carboxylic acids, in particular palmitic acid and stearic acid. Cetyl palmitate is particularly preferred.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains e) esters of a C12-C18 carboxylic acid and a C12-C18 alcohol - preferably cetyl palmitate - beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, hydrogenated castor oil, palmitic acid, stearic acid or any mixtures thereof.
  • Cetyl palmitate is particularly preferred.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain the at least one wax e) - based on their total weight - preferably in a weight proportion of 0.5 to 3 wt.%, more preferably 0.6 to 2.5 wt.%, further preferably 0.7 to 2 wt.% and very particularly preferably 0.8 to 1.5 wt.%.
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention very particularly preferably contain esters of a C12-C18 carboxylic acid and a C12-C18 alcohol - preferably cetyl palmitate - beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, hydrogenated castor oil, palmitic acid, stearic acid or any mixtures thereof in the aforementioned amounts.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment is characterized by a hair treatment agent which comprises an aqueous cosmetic carrier and a) has a pH in the range of 4.5 to 5.5 and - based on its total weight - b) 1 to 5 wt.% stearamidopropyl dimethylamine c) 0.01 to 2 wt.% guar hydroxypropyltrimenthylammonium chloride d) 0.5 to 5 wt.% coconut oil and e) 0.5 to 3 wt.% cetyl palmitate.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain further active ingredients and auxiliary substances which give them advantageous properties, in particular those with which the color protection and hair care effects can be further increased.
  • Preferred additional ingredients can be selected from, for example,
  • oils and/or fatty substances other than those specified in d) and e) oils and/or fatty substances other than those specified in d) and e
  • Cationic surfactants (i) other than b) are preferably understood to mean quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats or any mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides or bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-87.
  • the alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are substances that contain at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • methyl-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N-di(tallowacyloxyethyl)ammonium compounds bis-(palmitoyloxyethyl)hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium compounds, methyl-N,N-bis(stearoyloxyethyl)-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium compounds, methyl-N,N-bis(cocoyloxyethyl)-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium compounds or N,N-dimethyl-N,N-di(tallowacyloxyethyl)ammonium compounds.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the names Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare® and Quartamin®.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain at least one quaternary ammonium compound and/or at least one esterquat, particularly preferably behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and/or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
  • the further cationic surfactants (i) can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably in a weight proportion of 0.1 to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 0.25 to 9 wt. %, and in particular from 0.5 to 7.5 wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair treatment compositions.
  • Cationic polymers (ii) other than c) are preferably homopolymers or copolymers, the quaternary nitrogen groups being present either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic groups containing cationic nitrogens such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g.
  • alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts are preferably lower alkyl groups such as, for example, C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters, e.g. vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • physiologically acceptable counterions X- include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Methosulfates and halide ions, especially chloride, are preferred.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, copolymers according to the formula (Copo).
  • Formula (Copo) in which: x + y + z Q
  • Q stands for values from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, further preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8,000 and in particular from 1,000 to 5,000
  • x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, with the value 0 being preferred
  • y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, particularly preferably from 10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100 to 4,800
  • z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which are characterized in that the ratio of (y:z) is 4:1 to 1:2, preferably 4:1 to 1:1.
  • hair treatment compositions are preferred in which the copolymer has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 20 million gmol -1 , preferably 100,000 to 10 million gmol -1 , more preferably 500,000 to 5 million gmol -1 and in particular 1.1 million to 2.2 million gmol -1 .
  • a highly preferred copolymer constructed as previously described is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired cross-linked, poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium- 37.
  • Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Cosmedia® CTH or Cosmedia® Ultragel 300 (BASF SE) or Synthalen® CR (3V Group).
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion.
  • Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96.
  • a polymer dispersion sold under the name Cosmedia® Triple C (ex BASF SE) is also suitable.
  • Another preferred cationic polymer is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyllauryldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is sold, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle® 300 (28-32 wt.% active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) by the company ISP.
  • AquaStyle® 300 28-32 wt.% active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000
  • cationic polymers are, for example, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • the products commercially available under the names Merquat®100 (poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium-7, vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as offered under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, for example vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer, which is sold under the trade names Gaf
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those commercially available with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer building block, for example under the name Aquaflex® SF 40.
  • the further cationic polymers (ii) can be present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably in a weight proportion of 0.01 to 3 wt. %, more preferably 0.05 to 2.5 % by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 2 % by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment products.
  • Suitable oils and/or fatty substances (iii) can preferably be selected from mineral and/or synthetic oil components and/or from fatty substances.
  • Mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils as well as synthetic hydrocarbons are particularly used as mineral oils.
  • hydrocarbons that can be used are the commercial products Cetiol® S (1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane) or Cetiol® Ultimate.
  • a dialkyl ether can also serve as an oil component.
  • Dialkyl ethers that can be used are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 and 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octy
  • di-n-octyl ether which is commercially available under the name Cetiol® OE.
  • Fatty substances are preferably understood to be fatty alcohols.
  • Fatty alcohols that can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with Ce - C30, preferably C10 - C22 and very particularly preferably C12 - C22 carbon atoms.
  • suitable alcohols are decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols, whereby this list is intended to be exemplary and not limiting.
  • the fatty alcohols are preferably derived from natural fatty acids, whereby it can usually be assumed that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
  • Fatty alcohol cuts which can also be used according to the invention are those which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters resulting from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances can be purchased, for example, under the names Stenol®, e.g. Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g.
  • Lanette® O or Lorol® e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g. Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24.
  • Ester oils are the esters of Ce - C30 fatty acids with C2 - C30 fatty alcohols. Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols with 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as technical mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18-alkyl esters (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate Z-caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Ceti
  • Suitable oils and/or fatty substances (iii) also include the following silicones:
  • polyalkylsiloxanes (i) polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, which may be volatile or non-volatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, cross-linked or non-cross-linked;
  • polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups which may be selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per)fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
  • grafted silicone polymers with a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers not containing silicone, onto which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at at least one chain end;
  • grafted silicone polymers comprising a polysiloxane backbone onto which have been grafted non-silicone organic monomers comprising a polysiloxane backbone onto which has been grafted, in the chain and optionally at least one of its ends, at least one organic macromer not containing silicone;
  • Particularly preferred silicones are water-insoluble, non-volatile polydialkyl-, polyalkylaryl- and/or polydiarylsiloxanes, with water-insoluble, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes being particularly preferred.
  • Suitable alkyl groups are preferably straight-chain or branched C1-C4 alkyl groups, in particular methyl groups.
  • Very particularly preferred silicones are polydimethylsiloxanes, which at a temperature of 25°C preferably have a viscosity in the range from 1,000 to 1,000,000 cSt, more preferably from 5,000 to 500,000 cSt, particularly preferably from 10,000 to 200,000 cSt and in particular from 30,000 to 100,000 cSt.
  • the viscosity of the polysiloxanes can be measured, for example, at 25°C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004.
  • Particularly preferred oils and/or fatty substances (iii) can preferably be selected from the aforementioned fatty alcohols, ester oils and silicones.
  • oils and/or fatty substances (iii) in the total weight of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.%, more preferably 0.25 to 17.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 15 wt.% and in particular 0.75 to 12.5 wt.%.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention can further contain (iv) at least one protein hydrolysate.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins. According to the invention, the term protein hydrolysates also includes total hydrolysates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates that can be used according to the invention is between 75 daltons, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000 daltons; the molecular weight is preferably 75 to 50,000 daltons and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates used can be of plant, animal and/or marine origin.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
  • Protein hydrolysates of plant origin are preferred, e.g.
  • soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates preferably wheat protein, almond protein and mixtures thereof.
  • Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda).
  • Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used, whereby the underlying protein hydrolysate can come from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from protein hydrolysates obtained through biotechnology.
  • the protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolysate with a molecular weight distribution of around 100 Daltons up to several thousand Daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein portion has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 Daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often achieved using quaternary ammonium salts such as N,N- Dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates can also be further derivatized.
  • Typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are the products known under the INCI names and available in the trade: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimoni
  • Vegetable protein hydrolysates and/or vegetable protein hydrolysate derivatives are preferred, hydrolysed wheat protein and/or hydrolysed rice protein are particularly preferred.
  • the weight proportion of the protein hydrolysate(s) (iv) in the total weight of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 wt.% and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt.%.
  • a second subject matter of the invention is a method for reducing and/or preventing bleeding and/or fading of artificially produced hair colors, comprising the following steps in the order given
  • the colorant (F) in process step I. can contain at least one organic pigment (f2) as suitable pigments (f1), wherein the organic pigment is preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490,
  • Another subject matter of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) for dyeing and conditioning hair, comprising a container (I) with a first partial formulation of a dye (F) which contains at least one aforementioned pigment, optionally a second container (II) with a second partial formulation of the dye (F), and a third container with a hair care product (C) according to the invention.
  • kit of parts for dyeing and conditioning hair, comprising a container (I) with a first partial formulation of a dye (F) which contains at least one aforementioned pigment, optionally a second container (II) with a second partial formulation of the dye (F), and a third container with a hair care product (C) according to the invention.
  • the invention further relates to the use of the hair care product (C) according to the invention for improving the color retention on hair which has been colored by using a colorant (F) containing at least one pigment (f2), wherein the colorant (F) and the hair care product (C) have been previously defined.
  • composition according to the invention was prepared.
  • the composition according to the invention is a composition according to the invention.
  • Composition 1 was not sufficiently stable and showed separation phenomena during storage in the crash test (14 days at -10°C and 50°C respectively)
  • Composition 3 showed improved stability compared to Composition 2 after 6 weeks of storage. Compared to Composition 1, both Compositions 2 and 3 showed slight conditioning advantages.
  • compositions 3 and 4 were less stable in the crash test compared to composition 5. In addition, only composition 5 was able to achieve satisfactory color protection and good care benefits (particularly in terms of soft hair feel, smoothness and shine).

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un agent de traitement capillaire pour réduire et/ou éviter le dégorgement et/ou la décoloration de coulorations capillaires produites artificiellement, qui a un pH dans la plage de 4,5 à 5,5 et contient un mélange d'ingrédients spécifiques d'aminoamine(s), de polymères polysaccharidiques cationiques, d'huile(s) végétale(s) et de cire(s).
PCT/EP2024/053087 2023-03-29 2024-02-07 Conditionneur de protection des couleurs Pending WO2024199789A1 (fr)

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Citations (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20130034515A1 (en) * 2011-08-03 2013-02-07 Melaleuca, Inc. Hair care compositions
US20170165160A1 (en) * 2014-08-29 2017-06-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Method of increasing the wash resistance of artificially colored hair
US20190070083A1 (en) * 2017-09-05 2019-03-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Hair treatment agent with a polyvalent metal cation i
US20200323752A1 (en) * 2019-04-12 2020-10-15 Elc Management Llc Natural hair conditioning composition

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20130034515A1 (en) * 2011-08-03 2013-02-07 Melaleuca, Inc. Hair care compositions
US20170165160A1 (en) * 2014-08-29 2017-06-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Method of increasing the wash resistance of artificially colored hair
US20190070083A1 (en) * 2017-09-05 2019-03-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Hair treatment agent with a polyvalent metal cation i
US20200323752A1 (en) * 2019-04-12 2020-10-15 Elc Management Llc Natural hair conditioning composition

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DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 5 October 2020 (2020-10-05), ANONYMOUS: "Hair Bleaching Agent", XP093159756, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/8158129/ Database accession no. 8158129 *

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