WO2024141525A1 - Process for treating keratin fibres using at least one (co)polymer of polyvinyl alcohol (pva) bearing acetoacetate functions - Google Patents
Process for treating keratin fibres using at least one (co)polymer of polyvinyl alcohol (pva) bearing acetoacetate functions Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024141525A1 WO2024141525A1 PCT/EP2023/087793 EP2023087793W WO2024141525A1 WO 2024141525 A1 WO2024141525 A1 WO 2024141525A1 EP 2023087793 W EP2023087793 W EP 2023087793W WO 2024141525 A1 WO2024141525 A1 WO 2024141525A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8135—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by an acyloxy radical of a saturated carboxylic acid, of carbonic acid or of a haloformic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinyl esters (polyvinylacetate)
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
- A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers
Definitions
- the present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratin fibres, and notably to that of caring for, styling and/or dyeing keratin fibres and preferably the hair.
- the aim is thus notably to propose novel treatment processes, notably cosmetic treatment processes, comprising the application to keratin fibres of at least one (co)polymer of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) bearing acetoacetate functions, water and optionally at least one crosslinking agent, which are most particularly advantageous in terms of their technical performance, notably in terms of the resistance of the deposits they make it possible to obtain, and the sensorial experience they give the user.
- novel treatment processes notably cosmetic treatment processes, comprising the application to keratin fibres of at least one (co)polymer of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) bearing acetoacetate functions, water and optionally at least one crosslinking agent, which are most particularly advantageous in terms of their technical performance, notably in terms of the resistance of the deposits they make it possible to obtain, and the sensorial experience they give the user.
- PVA polyvinyl alcohol
- Cosmetic products conventionally require the use of one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain a quality deposit of these products on keratin materials, notably on keratin fibres, and in particular to satisfy the expectations detailed below.
- the deposit formed should have good staying power on contact with water, notably rain or during showering or even perspiration, and also with sebum, and even in contact with fatty substances. Moreover, this deposit should be aesthetically pleasing, homogeneous and must not crack when the head of hair is moving. The deposits should also be hardly or even not visible when they are not coloured. They may also afford a sheen effect themselves alone, or make it possible to modulate the sheen or mattness of additional compounds that would be present in the composition forming the deposit.
- dispersions of polymer particles of nanometric size are used in hair application products, and more particularly in their organic and notably oily phases, as filmforming agent.
- a process for treating notably a cosmetic process for treating, keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres, in one or more successive steps, of at least: i) one or more (co)polymers possessing at least one unit of formula (I), and also the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, and/or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or a composition containing same: in which formula (I):
- the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair uses a composition, termed “Cl”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow.
- the process of the invention uses at least one composition “C’ 1” comprising i), ii), and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from a) colouring agents, such as pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly at least one pigment.
- the composition “C’ l” does not comprise b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres and does not comprise c) UV screening agents.
- the treatment process according to the invention comprises a single step of applying composition “Cl” or composition “C’ 1” or composition “C2” or composition “C3” or composition “C’3” to said keratin fibres.
- the treatment process according to the invention comprises a single step of applying composition “C2” or composition “C3” to said keratin fibres.
- compositions chosen from “Cl” to “C5” After application of the various compositions chosen from “Cl” to “C5”, a persistent, non- tacky deposit is advantageously obtained.
- the deposit obtained is also resistant to food oils, water and shampoo washing.
- compositions are applied to dry keratin fibres.
- compositions are applied to damp or wet keratin fibres, i.e. keratin fibres containing water on the surface.
- the keratin fibres are dried after application of compositions chosen from “Cl” to “C5”, in particular after application of each different composition.
- the drying step can be implemented with a drying device such as a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon.
- the drying temperature is comprised between 40 °C and 110 °C, preferably between 50 °C and 90°C.
- a step of shaping the keratin fibers can be implemented with a hair straightener, a straightening or curling iron or a steam iron, preferably a hair straightener or a steam iron.
- the step of shaping the keratin fibres is carried out at a temperature ranging from 120 °C to 230 °C, notably from 150 °C to 210 °C, even more preferentially from 160 °C to 210 °C, better from 180 °C to 210 °C.
- the iron can be applied to the keratin fibers in successive separate touches of a few seconds, or by progressive movement or sliding along the hair.
- the application of the iron is done in continuous movement from the root to the tip of the hair, in one or more passes.
- the present invention relates to a process, notably a cosmetic process, for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, or “C’3”, notably containing at least one dyestuff, in particular as defined previously, and more particularly at least one pigment.
- the present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the successive application of at least:
- compositions “C4”, as defined previously and hereinbelow at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2” and/or “C4” containing at least one dyestuff, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferentially the composition “Cl” is “C’ l” which comprises at least one pigment.
- the composition “Cl”, “C’ l” or “C2” is applied before the composition “C4”.
- composition “C4” as defined previously;
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application of at least one composition “C3” as defined previously, it being understood that composition “C3” contains at least one dyestuff, in particular as defined hereinbelow, preferably at least one pigment. functionalized with acetoacetate functions
- the treatment process according to the invention involves applying to keratin fibres, preferably the hair, i) at least one (co)polymer possessing at least one unit of formula (I), optionally at least one unit of formula (II) and optionally at least one unit of formula (III), or a composition containing same.
- the treatment process according to the invention comprises the application to keratin fibres, preferably the hair, of at least i) one or more (co)polymers and also the optical and geometrical isomers thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, such as the hydrates, possessing at least one unit of formula (I), or a composition containing same: in which formula (I):
- R b and R c which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably R b and R c represent a hydrogen atom,
- R d represents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably R d represents a methyl group,
- R a represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably R a represents a hydrogen atom; and optionally at least one unit of formula (III): in which formula (III):
- - 1 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2;
- R represents a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or nonaromatic, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably R represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, in particular methyl;
- R a represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably R a represents a hydrogen atom; ii) water; and iii) optionally one or more crosslinking agents.
- the (co)polymer(s) of the invention are copolymers.
- the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II).
- the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (III).
- the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise at least one unit of formula (I), at least one unit of formula (II) and at least one unit of formula (III).
- the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise from 48 mol% to 99.99 mol% of units of formula (II), in particular from 60 mol% to 99.99 mol% of units of formula (II), preferably from 70 mol% to 99.99 mol% of units of formula (II), in particular from 69.9 mol% to 99.9 mol% of units of formula (II), preferably from 69 mol% to 99 mol% of units of formula (II), and more preferentially from 65 mol% to 95 mol% of units of formula (II), better still from 65 mol% to 90 mol% of units of formula (ID-
- the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise from 0 mol% to 30 mol% of units of formula (III), preferably from 0 mol% to 28 mol% of units of formula (III), and more preferentially from 0.1 mol% to 26 mol% of units of formula (III).
- the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise:
- the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention possess a mass-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 g/mol to 1 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 5000 g/mol to 500000 g/mol, and more preferentially from 10 000 g/mol to 300000 g/mol.
- the (co)polymer(s) as defined above are present in a composition, notably in a composition “Cl”, “C’l”, “C2”, “C3” or “C’3”, in a content ranging from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the (co)polymer(s) of formula (I) according to the invention may be prepared by functionalizing poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA), in order to obtain poly(vinyl alcohol) bearing acetoacetate functions.
- the functionalization of the poly(vinyl alcohol) may be performed via a transesterification reaction with an acetoacetate ester derivative (IV) using a compound of formula -[CH 2 - C(R a )(OH)] p - or -[CH 2 -C(R a )(OH)] p -[CH 2 -C(R a )(-O-C(O)-R)-] t to result in the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention, as illustrated in the following schemes: in which schemes:
- R a , R b , R c , R d , p, and t are as defined previously;
- R e represents a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or nonaromatic, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably R e represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, in particular methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl or tert-butyl, more preferentially tert-butyl;
- - p’ is a non-zero integer less than or equal to p, preferably strictly less than p, and corresponding to the number of repeating units bearing -O-C(O)-C(R b )(R c )-C(O)-R d groups grafted in place of the hydroxy group, p being as defined previously;
- p’ is between (0.001 multiplied by p) and (0.3 multiplied by p).
- poly(vinyl alcohol) chosen from:
- compositions “C2”, “C3”, “C’3” and “C4” as defined previously contain at least iii) a crosslinking agent.
- the compositions of the invention may comprise a fatty phase, an aqueous phase or may be in the form of a direct or inverse emulsion.
- Composition “C4” may be an aqueous composition.
- the composition “C4” is an aqueous composition and optionally contains v) at least one fatty substance.
- crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)amine compounds.
- the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from 3 -aminopropyltriethoxy silane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferentially 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), in particular the product sold by Sigma Aldrich.
- APTES 3 -aminopropyltriethoxy silane
- AETES 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane
- APTES aminopropyltriethoxysilane
- - ALK represents a (C1-C4) alkylene group which is linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene,
- the (poly)amine compound(s) are triamine compounds, i.e. they contain three primary and/or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH 2 ). More particularly, they are chosen from polyether triamines notably of formula ALK”’[(O-ALK’) m -NH 2 ]3 with ALK’ as defined previously and ALK”’ representing a linear or branched trivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0.
- the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides bearing lateral primary or secondary amine functions, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide and poly (2- aminoethyl) methacrylate.
- the (poly)amine compounds are chosen from chitosans (notably poly(D- glucosamine)) and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and/or on side chains.
- the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and/or on side chains are chosen from the compounds of formula (VII) below: R a -Si(Rb)(Rc)-O-[Si(Rb)(Rc)-O] m -[Si(ALK 1 -NH 2 )(R a )-O] n -Si(Rb)(Rc)-R a (VII) in which formula (VII):
- the (poly)thiol compound(s) are organic, non-polymeric and of formula (VIII) below and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates: L(SH) q (VIII) in which formula (VIII):
- (poly)thiol compounds of formula (VII) mention may be made more particularly of 1,8-octanedithiol, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecanedithiol, 1,14-tetradecanedithiol, 1,16-hexadecanedithiol and 1,18-octadecanedithiol.
- Use is preferably made of 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12- dodecanedithiol and/or 1,14-tetradecanedithiol, preferentially 1,12-dodecanedithiol.
- R’2 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethyl.
- R’3 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl.
- R’i is an acyclic chain, in particular R’i is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with one or more thiol groups, preferably substituted with one thiol group.
- R’i is a saturated linear Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with a thiol group
- R’2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
- R’3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
- the thiolated alkoxy siloxanes are chosen from those of formula (IX) below: (R 1 O)(R 2 )(R 3 )Si-[CH(R 4 )]t-[N(R’ 4 )-L 1 ] p -SH (IX) in which formula (IX):
- the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are chosen from those of formula (IX’) below: (R’ 1 O)(R’ 2 )(R’ 3 )Si-CH(R 4 )-CH(R 5 )-(L 2 ) q -SH (IX’) in which formula (IX’):
- - X represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably a sulfur atom
- - L 2 represents a linear or branched, saturated C1-C20 divalent hydrocarbon-based group, optionally interrupted with a heteroatom such as -N(H)-, and/or optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or amino groups.
- the thiolated alkoxy silane(s) are chosen from 4-(trimethoxy silyl)- 1 -butanol, 3- (trimethoxy silyl)- 1 -propanol, 3-(triethoxy silyl)- 1 -propanol, 11 -(trimethoxy silyl)- 1- undecanethiol, 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-2-butanethiol, 2-(triethoxysilyl)ethanethiol, 3- (triethoxy silyl)- 1 -propanethiol, 2-(trimethoxysilyl)ethanethiol, 3-(trimethoxy silyl)- 1- propanethiol and 3-(dimethoxymethylsilyl)-l -propanethiol.
- the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds may be star, comb, brush and dendritic homopolymers or copolymers bearing thiol units.
- the polymers may be of natural origin such as polysaccharides or polypeptides, or of synthetic origin such as acrylic polymers, polyesters or poly glycols.
- the thiol units may be present as terminal and/or side groups.
- Examples that may be mentioned include the polymers described in the following articles: Polymers containing groups of biological activity, C.G. Overberger et al., Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, http://pac.iupac.org/publications/pac/pdf/1962/pdf/0402x0521.pdf; EP 1 247 515 A2; US 3 676 440; and EP 1 572 778.
- - q is greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 3;
- - POLY denotes a polymer-based radical, preferably carbon-based or silicone-based; POLY being optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and combinations thereof such as -O-, -O-C(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R c )(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl; and/or POLY being optionally substituted with one or more halogen atoms, or a group chosen from R a (Rb)N- and -(X’) a -C(X)-(X”)b-R a ; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group N(Rb); a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b being 1; R a and Rb
- the methods for preparing the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are known to those skilled in the art; several methods are reported hereinbelow in a non-limiting manner.
- the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention may be obtained by polymerization or polycondensation of monomer units bearing thiol or protected thiol functions, optionally as a copolymerization or co-polycondensation of monomer units free of thiol or protected thiol functions.
- the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are polymers which are soluble in cosmetic media, particularly in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic media. They are more preferentially obtained from amino polymers and the ammonium salts thereof or from poly hydroxylated polymers.
- the thiolated polymers used according to the invention are polymers that are soluble in lipophilic media.
- the polythiol compound is a polymeric compound of formula (X) in which q denotes an integer greater than or equal to 2, and POLY denotes a carbon-based and/or silicon-based, preferably silicon-based, polymeric radical, POLY also possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N or S, and/or one or more functions chosen from (thio)ester, (thio)ketone, (thio)amide, (thio)urea and (thio)carbamate functions, and/or possibly being substituted with one or more linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl or linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkoxy groups, it being understood that when POLY is substituted, the thiol functions may be borne by the substituent(s).
- formula (X) in which q denotes an integer greater than or equal to 2
- POLY denotes a carbon-based and/or silicon-based, preferably silicon-based, polymeric radical
- POLY also possibly
- R a and R b which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group from among: (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl, (Ci-C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl;
- n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and more particularly the value of n is such that the weight- average molecular weight of the silicone ranges from 500 to 55 000 g.mol’ 1 ; in particular, n is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, preferably ranging from 5 to 50 and preferentially ranging from 10 to 30, and
- R d may also represent a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group substituted with a (Ci -Chalky lamino or amino or thiol group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl;
- the (poly)thiol compounds are chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one thiol group and dendrimers bearing at least one thiol group, such as thiolated PAMAM dendrimers.
- the (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are chosen from polydiallylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes, including at least two thiol groups such as those of formula (XIII).
- the (poly)acrylate compound may also be chosen from N,N’ -methylenebisacrylamide.
- the (poly)acrylate compounds are chosen from those of formula (XIV), notably trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), notably copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropylmethylsiloxane.
- - M and M’ which may be identical or different, represent an atom chosen from alkaline- earth metals, transition metals, metals of the lanthanide family, post-transition metals such as aluminium or tin and metalloids such as boron; preferably transition metals such as Ti and post-transition metals such as aluminium;
- R and R’ which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and/or P, notably O or N, and/or said hydrocarbonbased group being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or carbonyl groups;
- - P represents a polysaccharide chain preferably consisting of monosaccharides comprising 5 carbon atoms or more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more than 6 carbon atoms and more particularly 6 carbon atoms;
- the oxidation may take place on carbons 2 and 3, more particularly of 0.01% to 75% by number, and preferably of 0.1% to 50% by number of the rings that may have been opened.
- the polysaccharide chain, represented by P is preferably chosen from celluloses, starches, maltodextrins, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, acacia gums, polyxylans and tragacanth gums, and derivatives thereof.
- derivative means the compounds obtained by chemical modification of the mentioned compounds. They may be esters, amides or ethers of said compounds.
- the oxidation may take place according to a process known in the art, for example according to the process described in FR 2 842 200, in document FR 2 854 161 or in the article “Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses” by E. Fredon et al., Carbohydrate Polymers 49, pages 1 to 12 (2002).
- the (poly)carbonyl compound is combined in its implementation with an amine catalyst as described in the articles Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) wa Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019).
- the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine, DMAP (dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5- diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferentially chosen from DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5- diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec
- the metal salt(s) are chosen from basic aluminium acetate, aluminium oxalate, hydrated or non-hydrated aluminium citrate, aluminium lactate and aluminium glycinate, and mixtures thereof.
- the metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals M” is chosen from cerium, yttrium, ytterbium, lanthanum and europium, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals is chosen from cerium and yttrium, and mixtures thereof.
- the salt(s) of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are mineral salts.
- the mineral salt(s) of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are chosen from halides such as chlorides, fluorides, iodides and bromides, and nitrates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- the compound(s) belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are chosen from CeCh and YCh, and mixtures thereof.
- said (poly)amine compounds A) are chosen from a) chitosans, such as poly(D- glucosamine), b) polyether diamines, particularly polyethylene glycol a,co-diamine (bearing an amine function at the end of the chain), c) polyether triamines, such as polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), d) aminoalkoxysilanes, such as APTES, and e) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)- terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNth) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, notably the product sold by Momentive Performance Materials.
- chitosans such as poly(D- glucosamine
- R a and R b which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci- C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferentially methyl,
- n is between 2 and 10 inclusive and preferably between 2 and 5
- R e represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; preferably, R e represents a hydrogen atom, and
- the process of the invention also comprises the application of iv) at least one cosmetic active agent to keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
- At least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” used comprises one or more cosmetic active agents.
- the cosmetic active agent(s) iv) are chosen from: a) dyestuffs (or colouring agents), in particular chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof.
- the process of the invention uses one or more dyestuffs.
- At least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, preferably other than rhodamine B, more particularly other than fluorescent dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially pigments.
- the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, in particular Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more particularly D&C Red 7, an alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferentially chosen from red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more particularly D&C Red 7.
- These pigments may be synthetic or natural.
- These pigments may be in pigment powder or paste form.
- pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
- a pigment that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from mineral pigments.
- the term “mineral pigment” means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
- mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides or dioxides, and also of zinc, iron or chromium oxides.
- a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
- They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
- An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
- the pigments may be iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
- organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
- organic pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
- the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470
- pigment pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names: Cosmenyl Yellow IOG: Yellow 3 pigment (CI 11710); Cosmenyl G yellow: Yellow 1 pigment (CI 11680); Cosmenyl GR orange: Orange 43 pigment (CI 71105); Cosmenyl R red: Red 4 pigment (CI 12085); Cosmenyl FB carmine: Red 5 pigment (CI 12490); Cosmenyl RL violet: Violet 23 pigment (CI 51319); Cosmenyl A2R blue: Blue 15.1 pigment (CI 74160); Cosmenyl GG green: Green 7 pigment (CI 74260); Cosmenyl R black: Black 7 pigment (CI 77266).
- the pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426.
- These composite pigments may particularly be composed of particles including an inorganic core, at least one binder for attaching the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
- the organic pigment may also be a lake.
- lake refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
- the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
- alumina for example, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
- carminic acid for example, carminic acid.
- D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985) D & C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42090), FDC Red 4, D & C Red 6, D & C Red 22, D & C Red 28, D & C Red 30, D & C Orange 4, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Green 5, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, Sudan red, carotenes (P-caroten), D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D
- special effect pigments those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
- the size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 pm.
- the pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
- This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.
- esters of 12- hydroxy stearic acid in particular and of Cs to C20 fatty acid and of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel Pl 00 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
- poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company
- the pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
- the dispersant(s) are of amino silicone type other than the alkoxysilanes described previously and are cationic.
- the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic, or organic pigments.
- the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferentially organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
- the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
- the cosmetic active agent is a dyestuff chosen from one or more direct dyes.
- direct dye means natural and/or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will spread superficially over the fibre. They may be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.
- direct dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
- azo direct dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls
- carbonyl dyes azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
- the direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (A) and (B) below and the azo cationic dyes of formulae (C) and
- Het + represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with at least one (Ci-Cs)alkyl group such as methyl;
- Ar + represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium, particularly tri(Ci-Cs)alkylammonium, such as trimethylammonium;
- Ra and Rb which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Cs)alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group; or else the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het + and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar form, together with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; in particular, Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;
- - Q" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
- azo and hydrazono direct dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae (A) to (D) as defined previously more particularly the cationic direct dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714 954.
- the direct dyes are chosen from the compounds of formulae (E) and (F) below: in which formulae (E) and (F):
- R 1 represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl
- R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;
- R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkyl, optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkoxy, or (di)(Ci-Cs)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; in particular, R 4 is a hydrogen atom;
- - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH;
- - Q" is an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide, such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate, such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
- the dyes of formulae (E) and (F) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof with Q’ being an anionic counterion as defined previously, particularly a halide such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
- the direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes.
- the anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as “acid” direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances.
- the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
- the dyestuffs may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
- the direct dye(s) may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
- the cosmetic active agent(s), in particular the dyestuff(s) and more particularly the pigment(s), are introduced into at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”.
- the process of the invention uses one or more active agents for haircare.
- At least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” used comprises one or more active agents for haircare, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition considered.
- the care active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent and/or one lipophilic active agent, and preferably a hydrophilic care active agent.
- hydrophilic active agent means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent that is capable of forming hydrogen bonds.
- the cosmetic active agent(s) for haircare may notably be chosen from active agents having an action on the barrier function, antioxidant active agents, moisturizing active agents, sebum-regulating active agents, active agents intended for combating the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal active agents, fragrances, vitamins and derivatives thereof, notably esters thereof, in particular tocopherol (vitamin E) and esters thereof (such as tocopheryl acetate), mixtures thereof.
- the active agent(s) for care may in particular be present, in the composition containing same, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.02% to 25% by weight.
- At least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” used comprises, as cosmetic active agent, at least one UV- screening agent.
- the UV-screening agent is a UV-screening agent normally used in cosmetics.
- UV-screening agents that are suitable for use in the invention may be of varied nature. They may be lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic agents.
- lipophilic UV-screening agent means any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent that can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
- insoluble UV-screening agent means any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is not defined either as a lipophilic UV-screening agent or as a hydrophilic UV- screening agent, and which is in the form of particles in aqueous phase or liquid fatty phase.
- the UV-screening agents of the composition according to the invention may afford UVA and/or UVB photoprotection.
- compositions which are preferably cosmetic compositions, may comprise at least one organic and/or mineral UV-screening agent (for screening out the UV radiation of sunlight).
- the UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidenecamphor derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
- the organic UV-screening agents may also be chosen from anthranilic derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, notably those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis- benzazolyl derivatives, as described in patents EP 6 693 23 and US 2 463 264; p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26,
- the UV-screening agent(s) may be mineral UV-screening agents, which are generally pigments.
- the pigments may or may not be coated.
- the mineral UV-screening agents may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, and in particular from coated titanium oxide pigments, silicone-treated titanium oxides, uncoated titanium oxide pigments, uncoated zinc oxide pigments, coated zinc oxide pigments, uncoated cerium oxide pigments, uncoated iron oxide pigments, coated iron oxide pigments, and mixtures thereof.
- compositions “Cl” to “C5” are free of mineral UV- screening agents.
- the amount of the mineral UV-screening agent(s) present in compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing same. It ranges, for example, from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- At least one of the compositions “Cl” to “C5” also comprises one or more organic UV-screening agents and one or more mineral UV-screening agents.
- compositions comprise a combination of UV- screening agents as described in patent FR 2 977 490, patent application WO 2013/004777 or patent application US 2014/0134120.
- the process of the invention also uses v) one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils.
- compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”, in particular at least the composition “C4”, used in the process of the invention contains a fatty phase.
- compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”, in particular at least the composition “C4”, used in the process of the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils.
- oil refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
- the oil(s) v) are chosen from volatile oils, in particular:
- oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms in particular branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), linear alkanes, in particular C11-C16 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, in particular n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), the undecanetridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane mixture, mixture
- esters containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;
- R’ I-0-C(0)-0-R’2 in which R’i and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously chosen more preferentially from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;
- Ri and R2 independently of each other, denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group;
- silicone oils in particular comprising from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, and optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the volatile oil(s) v) are chosen from Cs-C
- compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”, in particular at least the composition “C4”, used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile oils, preferably chosen from:
- non-volatile fluoro oils in particular chosen from fluorinated polyethers, fluoro silicone oils and fluorosilicones;
- non-volatile silicone oils in particular chosen from non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof;
- non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils in particular chosen from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin: i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, in particular mixtures whose INCI names are (Cis-Ci9)Alkane, (C18-C21) Alkane, (C21- C28) Alkane, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes; v) hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated, vi) hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polydecenes, vii) decene/butene copolymers, butene/isobutene copolymers and viii) mixtures thereof;
- non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils which may be chosen from: i) saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; in particular, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2- hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; ii) triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from Cis to C
- the non-volatile carbonate oils may be chosen from the carbonates of formula Rs-O- C(O)-O-Rg, with Rs and R9, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially Ce to C10 alkyl chain;
- the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate, dineopentyl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dineoheptyl carbonate, diheptyl carbonate, diisononyl carbonate or dinonyl carbonate and preferably dioctyl carbonate;
- Non-volatile ether oils known as non-volatile ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a Ce-Cis alkyl group, and preferably Cs-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for Ri and R2 to be identical.
- Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.
- Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3- dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl
- the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range; mixtures of C15-C19 alkanes, and from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula R-C(O)-OR’ in which R-C(0)-0 represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, as defined previously, in particular isononyl isononanoate.
- the process of the invention uses one or more hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, alone or as mixtures, and more preferentially isododecane.
- hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, alone or as mixtures, and more preferentially isododecane.
- the process for treating keratin fibres uses compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”. “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4”, “C5”; preferably all of the compositions according to the invention are cosmetic. More particularly, the process uses water.
- compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”. “C2”, “C3” and “C’3” used in the process of the invention comprise water, and the compositions “C4” and “C5” optionally comprise water.
- the composition “Cl” or “C’ l” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
- the composition “Cl” or “C’ 1” is aqueous.
- composition “C2” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
- composition “C2” is aqueous.
- composition “C3” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
- composition “C3” is aqueous.
- composition “C’3” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
- composition “C’3” is aqueous.
- composition “C4” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
- composition “C4” is aqueous.
- composition “C5” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
- compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3” and “C4” are aqueous.
- compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3” are aqueous-alcoholic.
- they comprise a polar solvent mixture, preferably protic polar solvent/water mixture, such as ethanol/water, in particular in a ratio by volume of between 1/99 to 99/1, more particularly between 10/90 to 90/10, even more particularly between 20/80 and 80/20, preferably 40/60 to 60/40, such as 50/50.
- compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.
- the compositions “C4” or “C5” may be in anhydrous, water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion form.
- compositions “Cl” to “C5” used in the process of the invention may also comprise one or more solvents, other than water.
- composition “Cl”, and/or “C’ 1”, and/or “C2”, and/or “C3”, and/or “C’3”, and/or “C4”, and/or “C5” used in the process of the invention comprises one or more solvents other than water, in a content of less than 70% by weight, more preferentially less than 50% by weight, even more preferentially less than 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of water.
- composition “C’3” comprising i) at least one (co)polymer as defined previously, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent other than rhodamine B, in particular as defined previously.
- composition “C’3” comprises iv) at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, other than rhodamine B (more particularly other than fluorescent dyes), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially pigments.
- base coat 2 g of a solution containing the formulas described hereinbelow (“base coat”) are applied to a 1 g lock (90% Natural White NW hair) spread over aluminium foil and then, directly thereafter and without intermediate drying, 2 g of formulation containing the crosslinking agent is applied.
- the lock is then rolled up around a 5 cm curler and is held with a hair clip.
- the lock is left to dry on the curler at room temperature for 12 hours.
- the lock is then removed from the curler and left at room temperature for 24 hours.
- compositions B to G are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 3 using a Speed Mixer (mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.
- compositions B to G are applied according to the styling protocol without crosslinker described previously.
- composition D according to the process of the invention allows a significant improvement in the persistence of the locks with respect to water, compared to the application of the compositions B, C, E, F and G.
- the lock treated with the formulas I significantly improves the form of the curls, which appear more clearly defined and closer together, unlike the lock treated with the comparative formulas H.
- the lock treated with the formulas I exhibits curl maintenance that is considerably superior to the lock treated with the comparative formulas H.
- Example 11 Preparation of formulas J to O
- the formulas J to O are prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
- the “base coat” and “top coat” compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 7 using a Speed Mixer (mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.
- Example 12 Styling application of formulas J to O - Evaluation of the curl
- compositions K, L and M according to the process of the invention allows a significant improvement in the persistence of the locks with respect to water, compared to the application of the compositions J, N and O.
- the formulas P and Q are prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
- base coat and top coat compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 9 using a Speed Mixer (mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.
- Speed Mixer mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibres, in one or more successive steps, of at least i) one or more (co)polymers possessing at least one unit of formula (I), and also the optical or geometrical isomers thereof and/or the solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or a composition containing same in which formula (I) Ra, Rb, Rc, Rd and q are as defined in the description, ii) at least water, and iii) optionally at least one crosslinking agent.
Description
Description
Title: Process for treating keratin fibres using at least one (co)polymer of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) bearing acetoacetate functions
Technical field
The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratin fibres, and notably to that of caring for, styling and/or dyeing keratin fibres and preferably the hair.
The aim is thus notably to propose novel treatment processes, notably cosmetic treatment processes, comprising the application to keratin fibres of at least one (co)polymer of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) bearing acetoacetate functions, water and optionally at least one crosslinking agent, which are most particularly advantageous in terms of their technical performance, notably in terms of the resistance of the deposits they make it possible to obtain, and the sensorial experience they give the user.
Prior art
Cosmetic products conventionally require the use of one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain a quality deposit of these products on keratin materials, notably on keratin fibres, and in particular to satisfy the expectations detailed below.
Thus, in the field of haircare, it is most particularly expected that the deposit formed should have good staying power on contact with water, notably rain or during showering or even perspiration, and also with sebum, and even in contact with fatty substances. Moreover, this deposit should be aesthetically pleasing, homogeneous and must not crack when the head of hair is moving. The deposits should also be hardly or even not visible when they are not coloured. They may also afford a sheen effect themselves alone, or make it possible to modulate the sheen or mattness of additional compounds that would be present in the composition forming the deposit.
For this purpose, dispersions of polymer particles of nanometric size are used in hair application products, and more particularly in their organic and notably oily phases, as filmforming agent.
However, the compositions of the prior art have unsatisfactory hold, in particular styling hold, over time.
Moreover, in the field of haircare, a new range of products known as “Hair Makeup” has recently been developed. These products guarantee temporary hair dyeing that lasts after 1 to 3 shampoo washes.
They are thus a particularly attractive alternative for consumers to permanent hair dyeing, provided, of course, that the colouring effect is effectively guaranteed to last after contact with water and a few shampoo washes.
This requirement is also notably satisfied by the use of effective film-forming agents.
Thus, FR 2 741 530 proposes for this purpose, for the temporary dyeing of keratin fibres, the use of a dispersion of film-forming polymer particles including at least one acidic function and at least one pigment dispersed in the continuous phase of said dispersion. The colourings obtained via this dyeing method nevertheless have the drawback of being removed easily on shampoo washing.
It is moreover proposed in FR 2 907 678 to perform coloured coating of the hair using a composition comprising a poly siloxane/poly urea block copolymer and a pigment. However, with such a composition, the coating results obtained are not always very homogeneous and the individualization of the hair strands is not always very good.
It is also known practice from patent EP 1 392 222 to use a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or treating keratin materials, comprising a supramolecular polymer including a polymer backbone and at least two groups that are capable of forming at least three hydrogen bonds, and from patent EP 1 435 900 to use a hair composition comprising a supramolecular polymer including a polymer backbone and at least two groups that are capable of forming at least three hydrogen bonds and a surfactant or a hair-conditioning agent. However, with these two composition alternatives, the obtained performance with respect to styling hold over time or with respect to water resistance remains insufficient.
Processes for preparing compositions comprising modified polysaccharides are also known from WO 2020/026143. Moreover, US 2006/0079599 describes a polymer-based tissue adhesive for medical use, including polyvinyl alcohol polymers bearing ACAC groups combined with polyamines in the form of a hydrogel. US 3342806 and US 3361585 describe acetoacetylated starch compounds.
Moreover, WO 06/042169 describes tissue adhesives, in medical and veterinary applications, formed by the reaction of poly hydroxy compounds derived with acetoacetate
groups and/or polyamine compounds derived with acetoacetamide groups with an aminofunctional crosslinking compound.
Compositions are known, notably film-forming cosmetic compositions, comprising at least one fatty phase and at least one copolymer obtained by polymerization of ethylenic monomers, some of which bear particular groups (see, for example, WO 2022/136104). Such compositions nevertheless require the presence of a fatty phase, which may reduce the field to certain applications. Furthermore, such compositions do not necessarily meet the need for naturalness expressed by certain consumers.
There is also increasing demand from consumers for the use of compositions with a reduced environmental impact. Such compositions additionally generally require the presence of a fatty or oily phase.
However, there is the need to have available aqueous compositions that result in deposits on the keratin fibres that are water resistant, aesthetically pleasing, resistant to movements of the head of hair or even that make it possible to modulate the sheen and mattness.
In general, the treatment processes described above do not make it possible to obtain deposits on keratin fibres which satisfy all the abovementioned requirements, namely very good water resistance, in particular to shampoo washing for the hair, and/or to fatty substances, which may if possible make it possible to adjust the gloss or invisibility qualities and which, in the case of haircare use, provide very satisfactory styling hold or colour persistence.
In particular, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is a polymer of interest for cosmetic applications. It is a water-conveyable film-forming polymer that results in deposits having good properties of resistance to fatty substances such as olive oil or sebum.
However, PVA films have a major drawback with high sensitivity to water, limiting the interest of PVAs for application to keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
Disclosure of the invention
There is thus still a need for a treatment process, notably a cosmetic treatment process, intended for application to the keratin fibres, which makes it possible to obtain a deposit that is non-tacky, which transfers little, if at all, which is homogeneous, aesthetically acceptable, notably in that it does not crack during movements of the head of hair, and persistent in particular with respect to water and/or a few shampoo washes.
There is also still a need for a treatment process, notably a cosmetic treatment process, which allows deposits to be obtained that are resistant to water and fatty substances, such as sebum. There is also still a need for a treatment process, notably a cosmetic treatment process, which affords deposits that have invisibility qualities when not coloured and transparent, and even that make it possible to modulate the sheen and/or mattness.
There is also a need for a colouring treatment process, notably a cosmetic treatment process, which is intended for application to the hair and which affords deposits that have good resistance to water and shampoo washing in order to ensure a colour persistence over time. There is also a need for a treatment process, notably a cosmetic treatment process, notably a non-colouring treatment process, which is intended for application to the hair and which affords water-resistant styling properties, notably curl hold.
The present invention is specifically directed toward meeting all or some of these needs.
Summary of the invention
These problems are solved by performing a process for treating, notably a cosmetic process for treating, keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres, in one or more successive steps, of at least: i) one or more (co)polymers possessing at least one unit of formula (I), and also the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, and/or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or a composition containing same:
in which formula (I):
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom,
- Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rb and Rc represent a hydrogen atom,
- Rd represents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rd represents a methyl group,
- p is an integer greater than or equal to 2, and optionally at least one unit of formula (II):
in which formula (II):
- q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, and
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; and optionally at least one unit of formula (III):
in which formula (III):
- 1 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2;
- R represents a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or nonaromatic, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably
R represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, in particular methyl; and
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; ii) water; and iii) optionally one or more crosslinking agents.
According to a preferred embodiment, the treatment process of the invention also comprises the application of at least iv) a cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined hereinbelow, to said keratin fibres.
According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises the application i) of at least one (co)polymer as defined previously, the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or of a composition containing same, ii) water, and optionally the application iii) of at least one crosslinking agent, and the application iv) of at least one cosmetic active agent, to said keratin fibres.
According to a preferred embodiment, the water is at least applied at the same time as i), in other words i) and ii) are applied simultaneously, iii) also possibly being applied in the presence or absence of ii) water, and, when iv) is present, iv) also possibly being applied in the presence or absence of ii) water.
The water ii) may also be applied before i) and with i), optionally iii), and optionally iv). Thus, the keratin fibres may be damp or wet before application of i), optionally of iii), and optionally of iv). By way of example, steps i), optionally iii), and optionally iv) may be performed on damp keratin fibres, such as fibres just wrung out, for example after a shampoo wash.
According to one embodiment, the process comprises the application of i) and ii) simultaneously, optionally iii) and optionally iv) to damp or wet keratin fibres.
According to another embodiment, the process comprises the application of i), of ii), optionally iii), and optionally iv) to dry keratin fibres.
The inventors thus found, surprisingly, that the application to keratin fibres of the ingredients i), ii), optionally iii), and optionally iv), makes it possible to obtain deposits on keratin fibres which have good resistance to external attacking factors, for instance water, oils, sweat and/or sebum, and which are thus endowed with very good staying power over time. Advantageously, the deposits obtained via the processes according to the invention are also very homogeneous and resistant to the movement of the head of hair. They are not tacky and do not transfer. Applying ingredients i), ii), and possibly iii) and/or iv) to keratin fibres also affords deposits on the keratin fibres which show good resistance to shampoo washing and to water.
Applying ingredients i), ii) and possibly iii) and/or iv) to keratin fibres also affords shiny or matt deposits when the material is crosslinked.
Definitions
For the purposes of the present invention, throughout the description, including the claims, and unless otherwise indicated:
- For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” is intended to denote keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, and more preferentially the hair.
- The term “cosmetic active agent” means an organic or organosilicon compound or a mineral compound which can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition to give an effect on keratin materials, whether this effect is immediate or provided by repeated applications. As examples of cosmetic active agents, mention may be made of coloured or uncoloured, fluorescent or non-fluorescent compounds such as optical brighteners, or UVA and/or UVB screening agents, active agents intended for providing a benefit to keratin fibres, active agents intended for combating the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal active agents, fragrances and dyestuffs such as direct dyes or pigments, preferably pigments.
Preferentially, the cosmetic active agents are chosen from a) dyestuffs chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof.
- For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%); in addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance in halogenated solvents such as chloroform or dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene.
- The term “(hetero)aryl” means aryl or heteroaryl groups.
- The term “(hetero)cycloalkyl” means cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl groups.
- The “aryl” or “heteroaryl” radicals or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radical may be substituted with at least one substituent borne by a carbon atom, chosen from:
. a Ci-C6 and preferably C1-C4 (poly)(hydroxy)alkyl radical;
. a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine;
. a hydroxyl group;
. a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 (poly)hydroxyalkoxy radical;
. an amino radical;
. an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different Ci-Ce and preferably C1-C4 alkyl radicals;
. an acylamino radical (-N(R)-C(O)-R’) in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom;
. a C1-C4 alkyl radical and the radical R’ is a C1-C4 alkyl radical; a carbamoyl radical ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;
. an alkylsulfonylamino radical (R’-S(O)2-N(R)-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical and the radical R’ represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, or a phenyl radical;
. an aminosulfonyl radical ((R)2N-S(O)2-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;
. a carboxylic radical in acid form or salified (preferably with an alkali metal or a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium) form;
. a cyano group (CN);
. a polyhalo(Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferentially trifluoromethyl (CF3).
- The cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical may be substituted with at least one substituent borne by a carbon atom, chosen from the following groups:
. hydroxyl,
. C1-C4 alkoxy, C2-C4 (poly )hydroxy alkoxy;
. alkylcarbonylamino ((R-C(O)-NR’-), in which the radical R’ is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical and the radical R is a C1-C2 alkyl radical, amino substituted with one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;
. alkylcarbonyloxy ((R-C(O)-O-), in which the radical R is a C1-C4 alkyl radical, amino substituted with one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;
. alkoxycarbonyl ((R-O-C(O)-) in which the radical R is a C1-C4 alkyl radical, amino substituted with one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;
- A cyclic or heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of an aryl or heteroaryl radical, may also be substituted with one or more oxo groups.
- A hydrocarbon-based chain is unsaturated when it includes one or more double bonds and/or one or more triple bonds.
- An “aryl” radical represents a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic hydrocarbonbased group comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferentially, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl.
- A “heteroaryl” radical represents a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic, 5- to 14- membered group, comprising from 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferentially, a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolyl, benzo thiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyl, naphthooxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl, phenazinyl, phenoxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl and xanthylyl.
- A “cyclic” or “cycloalkyl” radical is a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic, nonaromatic cyclic hydrocarbon -based radical containing from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, which may include one or more unsaturations; the cycloalkyl is preferably a cyclohexyl group.
- A “heterocyclic” or “heterocycloalkyl” radical is a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic 3- to 9-membered non-aromatic cyclic radical, including from 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms; preferably, the heterocycloalkyl is chosen from epoxide, piperazinyl, piperidyl, morpholinyl and dithiolane.
- An “alkyl” radical is a linear or branched, in particular Ci-Ce and preferably C1-C4 saturated hydrocarbon-based radical.
- An “alkoxy” radical is an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a linear or branched Ci-Ce and preferentially C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based radical.
- A “(poly)(hydroxy)alkyl” radical denotes a Ci-Ce and preferably C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals, preferably substituted with from 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups, more particularly between 1 and 3.
- A “sugar” radical is a monosaccharide or disaccharide radical. Sugar radicals that may be mentioned include: sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose.
- The term “monosaccharide” refers to a mono-oside sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula CX(H2O)X with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x is equal to 6; they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates.
- The term “disaccharide” refers to a di-oside sugar which is a compound constituted of two saccharides bonded together via O-oside bonds, said compounds being constituted of two monosaccharide units (also known as mono-osides) as defined previously, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, the mono-oside units are linked together via a 1,4 or 1,6 bond as a (alpha) or p (beta) anomer, it being possible for each oside unit to be of L or D configuration, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed from two saccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]2- or -[(CH2<3)X]2-, with x being an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x is equal to 6, and y is an integer representing x - 1.
- The term “polysaccharide” refers to a polysaccharide sugar which is a polymer constituted of several saccharides bonded together via O-oside bonds, said polymers being constituted of monosaccharide units (also known as mono-osides) as defined previously, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, the monosaccharide units are linked together via a 1,4 or 1,6 bond as a (alpha) or p (beta) anomer, it being possible for each oside unit to be of L or D configuration, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed from a certain number of saccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)X]W-, where x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive and preferably x is equal to 6, and y is an integer which represents x - 1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly between 3 and 3000 inclusive, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferentially between 10 and 2300, particularly between 15 and 1000 inclusive, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferentially between 25 and 200.
- An “anionic counterion” is an anion or an anionic group associated with the cationic charge; more particularly, the anionic counterion is chosen from: i) halides such as chloride or bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including Ci-Ce alkylsulfonates: Alk-StOj O’ such as methanesulfonate or mesylate and ethanesulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-StOj O’ such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-O-S(O)O" such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) aryl sulfates: Ar-O-S(O)O" such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxy sulfates: Alk- O-S(O)2O" such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxy sulfate; xii) aryloxy sulfates: Ar-O-StOj O’; xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate.
- The “solvates” represent hydrates and also the combination with linear or branched C1-C4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
- The term “UV-A screening agent” means a chromophore derived from a compound which screens out (or absorbs) UV-A ultraviolet rays at a wavelength of between 320 and 400 nm. A distinction may be made between short UV-A screening agents (which absorb rays at a wavelength of between 320 and 340 nm) and long UV-A screening agents (which absorb rays at a wavelength of between 340 and 400 nm).
- The term “UV-B screening agent” means a chromophore derived from a compound which screens out (or absorbs) UV-B ultraviolet rays at a wavelength of between 280 and 320 nm.
- The term “chromophore” means a radical derived from a colourless or coloured compound that is capable of absorbing UV and/or visible radiation at a wavelength kabs of between 250 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophore is coloured, i.e. it absorbs wavelengths in the visible range, i.e. preferably between 400 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophores appear coloured to the eye, particularly between 400 and 700 nm (Ullmann’s Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlag “Dyes, General Survey”, § 2.1 Basic Principle of Color);
- The term “anhydrous composition” means that said composition contains an amount of less than 5% by weight of water, preferentially less than 3% by weight of water, better still less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition in question; even more preferentially, the composition under consideration is free of water.
- The terms “colouring agent” and “dyestuff' are equivalent.
- The term “(co)polymer” means a homopolymer or a copolymer.
- The term “homopolymer” means a polymer obtained from the repetition of polymeric units or monomers in which said monomers are all identical, i.e. of the same chemical nature (for example, -A-A-A-A-...-A-A-).
- The term “copolymer” means a polymer obtained from the repetition of polymeric units or monomers in which at least two repeating monomers differ, i.e. are of different chemical natures (for example -A-B-A-A-...-B-A-, it being understood that A is different from B). For example, a polymer consisting of at least one unit of formula (I) and of at least one unit of formula (II) and/or of formula (III) is a copolymer for the purposes of the invention.
- The expression “including a” or “comprising a” should be understood as being synonymous with “including at least one” or “including one or more”, unless otherwise mentioned.
The expressions “between... and...”, “comprises from ... to...”, “formed from ... to...” and “ranging from... to...” should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.
It is understood that the treatment processes according to the invention, and also the compositions used, are non-therapeutic.
Detailed description
METHOD FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBRES
The first subject of the invention is a treatment process in one or more steps using, on keratin fibres, preferably the hair: i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, or a composition containing same; ii) at least water; iii) optionally at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined hereinbelow; and iv) optionally at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined hereinbelow.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the treatment process according to the invention involves the simultaneous application of the ingredients i), ii), optionally iii), and optionally iv).
According to a particular embodiment, the ingredients i), ii) and iii) are applied simultaneously to the keratin fibres, optionally with iv).
According to a particular embodiment, the ingredients i), ii), iii) and iv) are applied simultaneously to the keratin fibres.
According to a particular embodiment, the ingredient(s) i) and ii) are applied simultaneously to the keratin fibres, and the ingredient(s) iii) and optionally iv) are applied to the keratin fibres in a separate step, it being understood that the ingredient ii) may also be applied with iii) and/or with iv), when iv) is present, and that the ingredient(s) iv), when they are present, may be applied together with i) and ii) and/or iii), preferably with i) and ii).
According to another particular embodiment, the ingredient(s) i) and ii) are applied simultaneously to the keratin fibres and then the ingredient(s) iii) are applied to the keratin fibres, it being understood that the ingredient ii) may also be applied with iii), the ingredient(s) iv) optionally present possibly being with i) and ii) and/or with iii).
According to a particular embodiment, the ingredient(s) iii) are applied to the keratin fibres and then the ingredient(s) i) and ii) are applied to the keratin fibres simultaneously in a separate step, it being understood that the ingredient ii) may also be applied with iii) and/or with iv), when iv) is present, and that the ingredient(s) iv) when present may be applied together with i) and/or iii).
According to one embodiment, the treatment process is the sequential application in 3 steps of i) and ii) and optionally iv) in one step, of iii) and optionally iv) and optionally ii) in a separate step, and of iv) in a separate step.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratin fibres is a cosmetic process for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
According to one aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratin fibres according to the invention using ingredients i), ii), optionally iii), and optionally iv), is a treatment for colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
According to another aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratin fibres according to the invention using the ingredients i), ii), optionally iii) and optionally iv), is a process for styling keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating, notably for cosmetically treating, keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of at least:
- a composition, termed “Cl”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow; preferably, composition “Cl” does not comprise iii) a crosslinking agent; or a composition, termed “C’ 1”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow; preferably, composition “C’ 1” does not comprise iii) a crosslinking agent;
- a composition, termed “C2”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined hereinbelow, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow; preferably, composition “C2” does not comprise iv) a cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow;
- a composition, termed “C3”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow;
- a composition, termed “C4”, comprising iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, optionally ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow; preferably, composition “C4” does not comprise i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow; and/or
- a composition, termed “C5”, comprising iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and optionally ii) water; preferably, composition “C5” does not comprise i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow and does not comprise iii) at least one crosslinking agent; it being understood that the process uses, together or separately, i) at least one (co)polymer as defined previously and hereinbelow and ii) water, and optionally iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and that the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” and “C5” may comprise one or more fatty substances v), in particular as defined hereinbelow.
According to one aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition,
termed “Cl”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, notably chosen from a) colouring agents, such as pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres, c) UV- screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof, and notably at least one colouring agent, more particularly at least one pigment.
According to another aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition, termed “C’l”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, notably chosen from a) colouring agents, such as pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres, c) UV- screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof, and notably at least one colouring agent, more particularly at least one pigment. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition “C’ l” does not comprise b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres and does not comprise c) UV screening agents.
According to another aspect, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition, termed “Cl”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow.
According to another aspect, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition, termed “C’ l”, which is preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer as defined previously, ii) water and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, as defined previously, preferably at least one pigment.
According to another aspect, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition, termed “C2”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow.
According to another aspect, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition termed “C3”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow.
According to another aspect, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for , styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition, termed “C’3”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from a) colouring agents, such as pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly at least one pigment. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition “C’3” does not comprise b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres and does not comprise c) UV screening agents.
According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses at least one composition “C’ 1” comprising i), ii), and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from a) colouring agents, such as pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly at least one pigment. Preferably, the composition “C’ l” does not comprise b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres and does not comprise c) UV screening agents.
According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses at least one composition “C’3” comprising i), ii), iii) and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent notably chosen from a) colouring agents, such as pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly at least one pigment, and said composition “C’3” optionally containing v) at least one fatty substance, in particular as defined hereinbelow. Preferably, the composition “C’3” does not comprise b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres and does not comprise c) UV screening agents.
According to another aspect, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition termed “C2” and a composition termed “C4”, said composition “C2” comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and said composition “C4” comprising iii) at least one crosslinking agent,
in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, optionally ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow.
According to another aspect, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, according to the invention, in particular for caring for and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses a composition termed “Cl” or “C’l” and a composition termed “C4” and a composition termed “C5”, said composition “Cl” comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, said composition “C’ l” comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, preferably at least one pigment, said composition “C4” comprising iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, optionally ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and said composition “C5” comprising iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and optionally ii) water.
According to another aspect, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, according to the invention uses a composition termed “C3” and a composition termed “C5”, said composition “C3” comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined previously and hereinbelow, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent as defined previously and hereinbelow, and said composition “C5” comprising iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and optionally ii) water.
According to a variant of the process of the invention, the ingredients i), ii), iii) and optionally iv) are applied together, i.e. simultaneously, to the keratin fibres during a single step.
According to another variant of the process of the invention, the ingredient(s) i), ii), and optionally iv) are applied together, i.e. simultaneously, to the keratin fibres during a first step, and then, during a subsequent step, the ingredient(s) iii), optionally ii), and optionally iv) are applied to said keratin fibres.
According to a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises two successive steps in which two different compositions are applied to said keratin fibres.
According to a variant of the process according to the invention, a composition “Cl” containing i), and ii) water, is applied to the keratin fibres, and sequentially a composition “C4” containing iii), and optionally ii), and optionally iv) is applied to said keratin fibres, the composition “Cl” preferably being applied before the composition “C4”.
According to another variant of the process according to the invention, a composition “C’ 1” containing i), ii) water and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, is applied to the keratin fibres, and sequentially a composition “C4” containing iii) and optionally ii), and optionally iv), is applied to said keratin fibres, the composition “C’ l” preferably being applied before the composition “C4”.
According to a particular embodiment of the process, during the first step, a composition “Cl” is applied to the keratin fibres, and a composition “C4” is then applied to said keratin fibres.
According to another variant of the process of the invention, the ingredient(s) iii), optionally ii), and optionally iv) are applied to the keratin fibres, and then ingredient(s) i), ii) and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously, are applied to said keratin fibres. In particular, composition “C4” is applied to the keratin fibres, and composition “Cl” or composition “C’ 1” is then applied.
According to another variant of the process according to the invention, a composition “C2” containing i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, is applied to the keratin fibres, and sequentially a composition “C4” containing iii) at least one crosslinking agent, optionally ii) water, and optionally at least one cosmetic active agent iv), is applied to said keratin fibres, composition “C2” preferably being applied before composition “C4”, and it being understood that the optional crosslinking agent(s) contained in composition “C2” may be identical to or different from the crosslinking agent(s) contained in composition “C4”; preferably, the crosslinking agent(s) are different.
Compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” and/or “C5” of the process according to the invention, which comprise at least one fatty substance, notably at least one oil, and water, may be in the form of a direct or inverse emulsion.
Compositions “C2”, “C3”, “C’3” and/or “C4” of the process according to the invention may thus be applied directly as such to the target keratin fibres or may even be formed directly on the surface of these keratin fibres.
According to the invention, three application methods known as the “one-gesture application mode”, the “two-gesture application mode” and the “three-gesture application mode” are thus distinguished.
According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, the process is performed in one gesture by applying composition “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3” or “C’3”, preferably “C2” or “C3”, as defined previously, to the keratin fibres.
Thus, according to one embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention comprises a single step of applying composition “Cl” or composition “C’ 1” or composition “C2” or composition “C3” or composition “C’3” to said keratin fibres. Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention comprises a single step of applying composition “C2” or composition “C3” to said keratin fibres.
The term “one-gesture application mode” means the direct application to the target keratin fibres of a single composition in accordance with the invention, namely composition “Cl” or “C’ 1” or “C2” or “C3” or “C’3”, preferably “C2” or “C3”.
After application of composition “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3” or “C’3”, a persistent, non-tacky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to food oils, water, sebum and friction.
According to another embodiment of the process of the invention, the process is performed in two gestures.
The term “two-gesture application mode” means the successive application, to the target keratin fibre, of two different compositions, for example “Cl” or “C’ l” and “C4”, or “C2” and “C4”, or “C3” and “C4”, preferably “Cl” and then “C4”, “C2” and then “C4”, or “C’ 1” and then “C4”, or “C3” and then “C4” or “C5”, more preferentially “Cl” and then “C4”. According to another embodiment, the process of the invention is performed in three gestures.
The term “three-gesture application mode” means the sequential application of three different compositions chosen from “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” and “C5”. According to this application mode, for example, according to one embodiment, sequential application is performed on the keratin fibres, a) of a composition “Cl” or “C’ 1”, then P) of a composition “C4”, then y) of a composition “C5”; preferably composition “Cl” is applied before composition “C4” or “C5”.
According to another embodiment, sequential application is performed on the keratin fibres, a) of a composition, for example “C4”, and P) of a composition “Cl” or “C’ 1”, and also y) of a composition “C5”; preferably composition “C4” is applied before composition “Cl” or “C’l”.
In the two- or three-gesture application modes, the composition applied first, for example “Cl”, “C’ l” or “C2”, preferably “Cl” or “C’ l” is conventionally referred to as the “base coat”, and the composition(s) superposed thereon, for example “C4”, are generally referred to as the “top coat”.
After application of the various compositions chosen from “Cl” to “C5”, a persistent, non- tacky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to food oils, water and shampoo washing.
According to a particular embodiment, the compositions are applied to dry keratin fibres.
According to a particular embodiment, the compositions are applied to damp or wet keratin fibres, i.e. keratin fibres containing water on the surface.
According to a particular embodiment, the keratin fibres are dried after application of compositions chosen from “Cl” to “C5”, in particular after application of each different composition. The drying step can be implemented with a drying device such as a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon. When the drying step is implemented with a helmet or a hair dryer, the drying temperature is comprised between 40 °C and 110 °C, preferably between 50 °C and 90°C.
After the drying step, a step of shaping the keratin fibers can be implemented with a hair straightener, a straightening or curling iron or a steam iron, preferably a hair straightener or a steam iron. Preferably, the step of shaping the keratin fibres is carried out at a temperature ranging from 120 °C to 230 °C, notably from 150 °C to 210 °C, even more preferentially from 160 °C to 210 °C, better from 180 °C to 210 °C. The iron can be applied to the keratin fibers in successive separate touches of a few seconds, or by progressive movement or sliding along the hair. Preferably, the application of the iron is done in continuous movement from the root to the tip of the hair, in one or more passes.
According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a process, notably a cosmetic process, for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, or “C’3”, notably containing at least one dyestuff, in particular as defined previously, and
more particularly at least one pigment.
According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the successive application of at least:
- a composition, “Cl”, “C’ 1” or “C2”, as defined previously and hereinbelow; and
- a composition, termed “C4”, as defined previously and hereinbelow; at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2” and/or “C4” containing at least one dyestuff, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferentially the composition “Cl” is “C’ l” which comprises at least one pigment. Preferably, the composition “Cl”, “C’ l” or “C2” is applied before the composition “C4”.
According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the successive application of at least:
- a composition, “Cl” or “C’ l” or “C2”, as defined previously; and
- a composition “C4” as defined previously; and
- a composition “C5” as defined previously; it being understood that at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C4” and/or “C5” contains at least one dyestuff, in particular as defined hereinbelow, preferably at least one pigment. Preferably, the composition “C5” comprises at least one pigment. More preferentially, the composition “Cl”, “C’ 1” or “C2” comprises at least one pigment.
According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application of at least one composition “C3” as defined previously, it being understood that composition “C3” contains at least one dyestuff, in particular as defined hereinbelow, preferably at least one pigment.
functionalized with acetoacetate functions
As indicated above, the treatment process according to the invention involves applying to keratin fibres, preferably the hair, i) at least one (co)polymer possessing at least one unit of formula (I), optionally at least one unit of formula (II) and optionally at least one unit of formula (III), or a composition containing same.
Thus, the treatment process according to the invention comprises the application to keratin fibres, preferably the hair, of at least i) one or more (co)polymers and also the optical and geometrical isomers thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, such as the hydrates, possessing at least one unit of formula (I), or a composition containing same:
in which formula (I):
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom,
- Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rb and Rc represent a hydrogen atom,
- Rd represents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rd represents a methyl group,
(ID in which formula (II):
- q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, and
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; and optionally at least one unit of formula (III):
in which formula (III):
- 1 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2;
- R represents a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or nonaromatic, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably R represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, in particular methyl; and
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; ii) water; and iii) optionally one or more crosslinking agents.
Preferably, the (co)polymer(s) of the invention are copolymers.
According to a preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II).
According to another preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (III).
According to a preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise at least one unit of formula (I), at least one unit of formula (II) and at least one unit of formula (III).
According to a preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise from 0.01 mol% to 42 mol% of units of formula (I), preferably from 0.1 mol% to 40 mol% of units of formula (I), and more preferentially from 1 mol% to 30 mol% of units of formula (I), better still from 5 mol% to 28 mol% of units of formula (I), even better still from 10 mol% to 25 mol% of units of formula (I).
According to a preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise from 48 mol% to 99.99 mol% of units of formula (II), in particular from 60 mol% to 99.99 mol% of units of formula (II), preferably from 70 mol% to 99.99 mol% of units of formula (II), in particular from 69.9 mol% to 99.9 mol% of units of formula (II), preferably
from 69 mol% to 99 mol% of units of formula (II), and more preferentially from 65 mol% to 95 mol% of units of formula (II), better still from 65 mol% to 90 mol% of units of formula (ID-
According to a preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise from 0 mol% to 30 mol% of units of formula (III), preferably from 0 mol% to 28 mol% of units of formula (III), and more preferentially from 0.1 mol% to 26 mol% of units of formula (III).
According to a preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise:
- from 1 mol% to 30 mol% of units of formula (I),
- from 49 mol% to 99 mol% of units of formula (II),
- from 0 mol% to 26 mol% of units of formula (III).
According to a preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise:
- from 1 mol% to 25 mol% of units of formula (I),
- from 49 mol% to 99 mol% of units of formula (II),
- from 0 mol% to 26 mol% of units of formula (III).
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention comprise:
- from 6 mol% to 25 mol% of units of formula (I),
- from 50 mol% to 89 mol% of units of formula (II),
- from 5 mol% to 25 mol% of units of formula (III).
According to a preferred embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention possess a mass-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 g/mol to 1 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 5000 g/mol to 500000 g/mol, and more preferentially from 10 000 g/mol to 300000 g/mol.
According to a particular embodiment, the (co)polymer(s) as defined above are present in a composition, notably in a composition “Cl”, “C’l”, “C2”, “C3” or “C’3”, in a content ranging from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
The (co)polymer(s) of formula (I) according to the invention may be prepared by functionalizing poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA), in order to obtain poly(vinyl alcohol) bearing acetoacetate functions.
The functionalization of the poly(vinyl alcohol) may be performed via a transesterification reaction with an acetoacetate ester derivative (IV) using a compound of formula -[CH2- C(Ra)(OH)]p- or -[CH2-C(Ra)(OH)]p-[CH2-C(Ra)(-O-C(O)-R)-]t to result in the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention, as illustrated in the following schemes:
in which schemes:
- R, Ra, Rb, Rc, Rd, p, and t are as defined previously;
- Re represents a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or nonaromatic, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably Re represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, in particular methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl or tert-butyl, more preferentially tert-butyl;
- p’ is a non-zero integer less than or equal to p, preferably strictly less than p, and corresponding to the number of repeating units bearing -O-C(O)-C(Rb)(Rc)-C(O)-Rd groups grafted in place of the hydroxy group, p being as defined previously;
- p” is an integer greater than or equal to 0, it being understood that preferably the sum p’ + p” = p.
Preferably, p’ is non-zero and less than or equal to p multiplied by 0.4, more preferentially p’ is less than or equal to p multiplied by 0.3.
Preferably, p” is non-zero and preferably less than or equal to p multiplied by 0.6, more preferentially p” is less than or equal to p multiplied by 0.7.
According to a particular embodiment, p’ is between (0.001 multiplied by p) and (0.3 multiplied by p).
More particularly, the compound of formula (IV) is chosen from methyl acetoacetate, ethyl acetoacetate, isopropyl acetoacetate and tert-butyl acetoacetate. Preferably, the compound of formula (IV) is tert-butyl acetoacetate.
In particular, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention may be prepared from poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) compounds of formula (II) which are partially or totally hydrolysed, notably those sold under the reference Kuraray Poval by the company Kuraray, notably the POVAL range, or else those sold by the company Sigma-Aldrich (see for example https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/FR/fr/search/poly(vinyl- alcohol)?focus=products&page=l&perpage=30&sort=relevance&term=poly%28vinyl%20 alcohol%29&type=product).
It may in particular be poly(vinyl alcohol) chosen from:
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 89 000-98 000, more than 99% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 30000-70000, from 87% to 90% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 13 000-23 000, from 87% to 89% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 9000-10000, 80% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 146 000-186 000, more than 99% hydrolysed;
1
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 85 000-124 000, more than 99% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 31 000-50000, from 98% to 99% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 31 000-50000, from 87% to 89% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 85 000-124 000, from 87% to 89% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 146 000-186 000, from 87% to 89% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw from 13 000-23 000, 98% hydrolysed;
- poly(vinyl alcohols) of average molecular weight Mw of 130000, more than 99% hydrolysed;
- fully hydrolysed poly(vinyl alcohol);
- the poly(vinyl alcohol) sold by the company Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 4-88 Emprove® Essantial;
- the poly(vinyl alcohol) sold by the company Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 8-88 Emprove® Essantial (CAS number 9002-89-5, Mw equal to 67 000); or
- the poly (vinyl alcohol) sold by the company Sigma- Aldrich under the reference 40-88 Emprove® Essantial.
Preferably, the (co)polymer(s) according to the invention may be prepared from poly(vinyl alcohols) that are partially hydrolysed, more preferentially 88% hydrolysed.
In particular, this may be the poly(vinyl alcohol) sold by the company Sigma- Aldrich under the reference 8-88 Emprove® Essantial.
CROSSLINKING AGENT
According to a particular embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention as described previously comprises the application to keratin fibres, preferably the hair, of (i) at least one or more (co)polymers as defined previously, and (iii) at least one crosslinking agent.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “crosslinking agent”, also termed “R”, denotes a compound that is capable of establishing with at least one acetoacetate function of the (co)polymer(s) used in the treatment process according to the invention: at least one covalent bond, at least one donor-acceptor (dative) bond, and/or at least one coordination bond, and thus of crosslinking this or these compounds.
Preferably, the term “crosslinking agent”, also termed “R”, refers to a compound that is capable of establishing at least one covalent bond with an acetoacetate function of the (co)polymer(s) used in the treatment process according to the invention and thus of crosslinking this or these compounds.
For the purposes of the present invention, it is understood that the terms “crosslinking agent” and “crosslinker” are equivalent.
Compositions “C2”, “C3”, “C’3” and “C4” as defined previously contain at least iii) a crosslinking agent. The compositions of the invention may comprise a fatty phase, an aqueous phase or may be in the form of a direct or inverse emulsion. Composition “C4” may be an aqueous composition.
The composition “Cl” is an aqueous composition and more preferentially does not contain v) fatty substance.
The composition “C’ l” is an aqueous composition and more preferentially does not contain v) fatty substance.
According to one embodiment, the composition “C3” is an aqueous composition and does not contain v) fatty substance.
According to one embodiment, the composition “C3” is an aqueous composition and contains v) at least one fatty substance.
According to one embodiment, the composition “C’3” is an aqueous composition and does not contain v) fatty substance.
According to one embodiment, the composition “C’3” is an aqueous composition and contains v) at least one fatty substance.
According to one embodiment, the composition “C4” is an aqueous composition and optionally contains v) at least one fatty substance.
According to another embodiment, the composition “C4” is an anhydrous composition.
According to one aspect, the treatment process of the invention uses a composition termed “C3”, in particular a cosmetic composition, for keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer, as defined previously and hereinbelow, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously and hereinbelow.
The crosslinking agent(s) iii) are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 0.2% to 60% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 20% by weight, even more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing same.
In particular, the crosslinking agent(s) iii) and the (co)polymer(s) i) as defined previously are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 1% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
More precisely, the crosslinking agent(s) iii) that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from compounds bearing amine, thiol, acrylate and/or carbonyl functions, such as a ketone or aldehyde function. A crosslinking agent R may also denote a metal alkoxide or a metal salt or a rare-earth metal derivative.
Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent iii) is chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl, (poly)acrylate, metal alkoxide and metal (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylate compounds and/or rare-earth metal derivatives and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol and (poly)acrylate compounds, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially chosen from (poly)amine and (poly)thiol compounds, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially chosen from (poly)amine compounds.
The term “(poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl and (poly)acrylate compounds” is intended to denote compounds including at least one primary or secondary amine, thiol, carbonyl (such as a ketone or aldehyde function) or acrylate function, respectively.
The metal alkoxide compounds, metal (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylates and rare- earth metal derivatives are defined below.
A) (Poly)amine compounds
According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)amine compounds.
The (poly)amine compound may be chosen in particular from polyamine compounds bearing several primary and/or secondary amine groups or from amino alkoxysilanes, and more particularly from amino alkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds, and mixtures thereof.
The (poly)amine compound may be a compound comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, notably a nonpolymeric compound; they may be acyclic or cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S, Si(R’)2, N(R”) preferably O, Si(R’)2, or combinations thereof such as -Si(R’)2-O- or -O-Si(R’)2-, with R’, which may be identical or different, representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom.
The term “non-polymeric compound” means a compound which is not directly obtained via a monomer polymerization reaction.
(Poly)amine compounds that may be mentioned in particular include N-methyl-1,3- diaminopropane, N-propyl-l,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl-l,3-diaminopropane, N- cyclohexyl- 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2- aminoethyljaminopropylamine, bis (3 - aminopropyl) amine, methylbis(3- aminopropyljamine, N-(3-aminopropyl)- 1 ,4-diaminobutane, N,N- dimethyldipropylenetriamine, l,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N’-bis(3- aminopropyl)- 1 ,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1 ,3-propylenediamine, 1,4- butylenediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, 1,3- bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, l,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol,
4,7,10-trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine, spermidine and C36-alkylenediamines (Priamine™
1071, 1073, 1074, 1075, respectively), preferably spermidine.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are monoamine compounds, i.e. they contain only one primary and/or secondary amine group, preferably a primary amine group (NH2).
The (poly)amine compound(s) may be chosen from amino alkoxysilanes, notably of formula RTSi(OR’2)z(R’3)x in which:
- R’ I is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with a group chosen from primary amine groups Nth or secondary amine groups -N(H)R with R representing a C1-C4 alkyl, an aryl or a benzyl substituted with an amino group or with a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R’i may be interrupted in its chain with a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), R’i being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,
- R’2 and R’3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci- Ce) alkyl group,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3, and
- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x = 3.
In particular, R’ 1 is an acyclic chain. Preferably, R’ 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine -Nth or -N(H)R group, with R representing a Ci-Ce alkyl, a C3-C6 cycloalkyl or a Ce aromatic group. More preferentially, R’i is a saturated linear Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine group Nth. Even more preferentially, R’ 1 is a saturated linear C2-C4 hydrocarbonbased chain substituted with an amine group Nth.
In particular, R’2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R’2 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more preferentially R’2 represents an ethyl group.
In particular, R’3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R’3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more preferentially R’3 represents methyl or ethyl groups. Preferably, z is equal to 3.
In particular, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from amino alkoxysilanes including only one primary and/or secondary, preferably primary (Nth), amine group, such as 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m- aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, and N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane.
Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from 3 -aminopropyltriethoxy silane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, and
N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferentially 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), in particular the product sold by Sigma Aldrich.
The (poly)amine compound may also be chosen from amino polymers, notably having a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 500 g.mor1 to 1 000000 g.mol'1, preferably ranging from 500 g.mol'1 to 500000 g.mol'1, and preferentially ranging from 500 g.mol'1 to 100000 g.mol'1.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are monoamine compounds and are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes notably of formula (IV): H2N-ALK-Si(R’2)(R’3)-O-[ Si(R’2)(R’3)-O]n- Si(R’2)(R’3)-R’4 (IV) in which formula (IV):
- ALK represents a (C1-C4) alkylene group which is linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene,
- R’2 and R’3, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci- C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, and
- R’4 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, preferably C4, such as n-butyl, n represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 500 to 3000 g.mol'1. As examples of polydimethylsiloxanes (V), mention may be made of the products sold under the names “MCR-A11” and “MCR-A12” by the company Gelest.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are diamine compounds, i.e. they contain two primary and/or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2).
More particularly, they are chosen from the compounds of formula (V) or (VI):
. ALK[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]2 (V) or
. H2N-ALK-Si(R’)2-[O-Si(R’)2]m-O-Si(R)2-ALK’-NH2 (VI) in which formulae (V) and (VI):
- ALK and ALK’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci- C6)alkylene group, preferably a linear group such as propylene,
- R’, which may be identical or different, represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl,
- m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0; preferably, the value of m is such that the weight- average molecular weight of compound (V) or (VI) ranges from 500 g.mol’1 to 55 000 g.mol’1.
As examples of compounds of formula (VI), mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.
The (poly)amines compounds that are diamines are particularly polyether diamines notably of formula H2N-ALK-O-[ALK’-O]m-ALK”-NH2 with ALK, ALK’ and ALK”, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched (Ci-C6))alkylene group, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0, such as 4,7,10-trioxa-l,13- tridecanediamine or the compounds known under the reference Jeffamine from the company Hunstman, and more particularly a,co-diamino polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol (with an amine function at the end of the chain) such as the products sold under the names Jeffamine D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000 and ED-2003.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are triamine compounds, i.e. they contain three primary and/or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2). More particularly, they are chosen from polyether triamines notably of formula ALK”’[(O-ALK’)m-NH2]3 with ALK’ as defined previously and ALK”’ representing a linear or branched trivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0.
As (poly)amine compounds that are triamine compounds, mention may be made in particular of polyether triamines, and notably a,co-diamino polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol (with an amine function at the end of the chain) such as the products sold under the names Jeffamine T-403.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) include more than three primary and/or secondary amine groups, preferably primary amine groups (NH2).
In this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides bearing lateral primary or secondary amine functions, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide and poly (2- aminoethyl) methacrylate.
Preferably, the (poly)amine compounds are chosen from chitosans (notably poly(D- glucosamine)) and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and/or on side chains.
According to this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen in particular from poly((C2-C5)alkyleneimines), and preferably polyethylenimines and polypropyleneimines, notably poly(ethyleneimine), in particular the product sold under reference 408700 by the company Aldrich Chemical or under the trade name Lupasol by BASF, notably with a molecular weight of between 1200 and 25 000; poly(allylamine), in particular the product sold under reference 479136 by the company Aldrich Chemical; polyvinylamines and copolymers thereof, notably with vinylamides, in particular vinylamine/vinylformamide copolymers such as those sold under the name Lupamin® 9030 by the company BASF; polyamine acids containing NFh groups, such as polylysine, in particular the product sold by the company JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); amino dextran, in particular the product sold by the company CarboMer Inc; amino polyvinyl alcohol, in particular the product sold by the company CarboMer Inc; acrylamido(Ci-C6)alkylamine-based copolymers, notably acrylamidopropylamine-based copolymers; and poly(D-glucosamine), for example sold under the reference Kionutrime CSG® by the company Kytozyme.
According to a particular embodiment, the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and/or on side chains are chosen from the compounds of formula (VII) below: Ra-Si(Rb)(Rc)-O-[Si(Rb)(Rc)-O]m-[Si(ALK1-NH2)(Ra)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rc)-Ra(VII) in which formula (VII):
Ra, which may be identical or different, represents a hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl group,
- Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl,
- ALK1 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce) alkylene group, optionally interrupted with an N(H) group,
- m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1 ; preferably, m and n are such that the weightaverage molecular mass of the compound of formula (VII) ranges from 1000 g.inof1 to 500000 g.mol’1.
According to a preferred variant, formula (VII) is such that Ra, Rb and Rc represent a methyl group, ALK1 represents a propylene group, n and m are such that the weight- average molecular weight of the polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 1000 g.mor1 to 55 000 g.mol’1. As examples of polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (VI), mention may be made of those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest.
According to another variant, formula (VII) is such that Ra represents a hydroxyl or (Ci- C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, ALK1 represents a (Cs-C6)alkylene group substituted with an NH group; preferably, ALK1 represents -(CH2)3-N(H)-(CH2)2-, and m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound of formula (VI) ranges from 5000 g.mor1 to 500000 g.mor1.
As amine polymer, mention may also be made of a,co-diamino polytetrahydrofurans (or polytetramethylene glycol) and a,co-diamino polybutadienes.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent R chosen from (poly)amine compounds, in particular chosen from chitosans, aminoalkoxysilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, amodimethicones, polyglucosamines, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent chosen from chitosans, aminoalkoxysilanes and polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains such as amodimethicones, and even more preferentially chosen from poly(D-glucosamine), 3 -aminopropyltriethoxy silane (APTES), 3- aminoethyltriethoxy silane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2- aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, spermidine and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising terminal amino groups at the end of the chain, such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone .
B) (Poly)thiol compounds
According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)thiol compounds, also known as “(poly)mercapto” compounds.
The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be organic or inorganic, preferably organic.
In a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is silicon-based, i.e. it includes one or more thiol groups and it also includes at least one siloxane chain.
In a particular embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is inorganic. Mention may be made, for example, of poly thiol silicones.
The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be chosen from non-polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-polymeric compounds” means compounds which are not directly obtained via a monomer polymerization reaction.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are organic, non-polymeric and of formula (VIII) below and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates: L(SH)q (VIII) in which formula (VIII):
- q denotes an integer greater than or equal to 2; preferably, q is between 2 and 10 inclusive and preferably between 2 and 5;
- L denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, multivalent (at least divalent) group, in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and/or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and/or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and/or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms; L being optionally interrupted and/or terminated with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and combinations thereof such as -O-, -O-C(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group such as methyl; and/or L being optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb and -(X’)a-C(X)-(X”)b-Ra; with X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group N(Rb); a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b being 1; Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl or aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom; and Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a (Ci-Ce)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-Ce/alkoxy group.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from polythiol compounds, notably polythiol compounds comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are non-polymeric and notably of formula (VIII) defined above, in which q is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably q is an integer between 2 and 10 inclusive and preferably between 2 and 5.
The (poly)thiol compounds that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably dithiol compounds.
Preferably, L denotes a Cs-Cis multivalent radical, which is notably linear. Preferentially, the liposoluble polythiol is a notably linear Cs-Cis dithiol. Preferably, the Cs-Cis chain is a hydrocarbon-based chain, i.e. formed from carbon and hydrogen. In particular, the liposoluble polythiol is a linear Cs-Ci6 and notably Cio-Cu dithiol. As (poly)thiol compounds of formula (VII), mention may be made more particularly of 1,8-octanedithiol, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecanedithiol, 1,14-tetradecanedithiol, 1,16-hexadecanedithiol and 1,18-octadecanedithiol. Use is preferably made of 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12- dodecanedithiol and/or 1,14-tetradecanedithiol, preferentially 1,12-dodecanedithiol.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from thiolated alkoxysiloxanes, such as those of formula (VIII’) below: R’i-Si(OR’2)z(R’3)x (VIII’) in which formula (VIII’):
- RT is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C12 hydrocarbonbased chain substituted with one or more groups chosen from thiol groups; and aryl, aryloxy, arylthio, arylamino, the aryl group being substituted with one or more thiol groups, or thiol(Ci-C6)alkyl, preferably thiol(Ci-C6)alkyl; and RT is optionally interrupted in its hydrocarbon-based chain with one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, a carbonyl group C(O), or a combination thereof such as ester -C(O)-O-, or amide -C(O)-N(H)-, R being bonded to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,
- R’2 and R , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3, and
- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x = 3.
Preferably, R’2 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethyl.
Preferably, R’3 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl.
Preferably, R’i is an acyclic chain, in particular R’i is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with one or more thiol groups, preferably substituted with one thiol group.
Preferably, R’i is a saturated linear Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with a thiol group, and R’2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R’3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, z is equal to 3.
According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxy siloxanes are chosen from those of formula (IX) below: (R1O)(R2)(R3)Si-[CH(R4)]t-[N(R’4)-L1]p-SH (IX) in which formula (IX):
- p is 0 or 1 ;
- 1 is an integer between 1 and 4, preferably 2;
- R1 represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl radical;
- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are chosen from a (Ci- Ce)alkyl group, in particular a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as methyl, and a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, in particular a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, such as methoxy;
- R4 and R’4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, such as methyl;
- L1 represents a divalent, saturated, linear or branched C1-C20 hydrocarbon-based radical.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are chosen from those of formula (IX’) below: (R’1O)(R’2)(R’3)Si-CH(R4)-CH(R5)-(L2)q-SH (IX’) in which formula (IX’):
- q is equal to 0 or 1 ;
- X represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably a sulfur atom;
- R’1 denotes a (Ci-Ce)alkyl radical;
- R’2 and R’3, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are chosen from a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, in particular a C1-C4 alkoxy group, and a (Ci-Ce)alkyl radical;
- R5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally substituted with an amino, thiol or hydroxyl group;
- R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular methyl;
- L2 represents a linear or branched, saturated C1-C20 divalent hydrocarbon-based group, optionally interrupted with a heteroatom such as -N(H)-, and/or optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or amino groups.
Preferably, the thiolated alkoxy silane(s) are chosen from 4-(trimethoxy silyl)- 1 -butanol, 3- (trimethoxy silyl)- 1 -propanol, 3-(triethoxy silyl)- 1 -propanol, 11 -(trimethoxy silyl)- 1- undecanethiol, 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-2-butanethiol, 2-(triethoxysilyl)ethanethiol, 3- (triethoxy silyl)- 1 -propanethiol, 2-(trimethoxysilyl)ethanethiol, 3-(trimethoxy silyl)- 1- propanethiol and 3-(dimethoxymethylsilyl)-l -propanethiol.
More preferentially, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from 2- (triethoxysilyl)ethanethiol (18236-15-2) and 3-(triethoxysilyl)-l-propanethiol (14814-09-6). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.
The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds may be star, comb, brush and dendritic homopolymers or copolymers bearing thiol units. The polymers may be of natural origin such as polysaccharides or polypeptides, or of synthetic origin such as acrylic polymers, polyesters or poly glycols. The thiol units may be present as terminal and/or side groups.
Examples that may be mentioned include the polymers described in the following articles: Polymers containing groups of biological activity, C.G. Overberger et al., Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, http://pac.iupac.org/publications/pac/pdf/1962/pdf/0402x0521.pdf; EP 1 247 515 A2; US 3 676 440; and EP 1 572 778.
The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds of the invention are preferably organic and/or silicone compounds, more preferentially of formula (X): POLY(SH)q (X) in which formula (X):
- q is greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 3;
- POLY denotes a polymer-based radical, preferably carbon-based or silicone-based; POLY being optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N,
Si, C(X), and combinations thereof such as -O-, -O-C(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl; and/or POLY being optionally substituted with one or more halogen atoms, or a group chosen from Ra(Rb)N- and -(X’)a-C(X)-(X”)b-Ra; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group N(Rb); a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b being 1; Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci- Cio)alkyl or aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom; and Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a (Ci-Cio)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-Cio)alkoxy group.
The methods for preparing the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are known to those skilled in the art; several methods are reported hereinbelow in a non-limiting manner. The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention may be obtained by polymerization or polycondensation of monomer units bearing thiol or protected thiol functions, optionally as a copolymerization or co-polycondensation of monomer units free of thiol or protected thiol functions.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are polymers which are soluble in cosmetic media, particularly in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic media. They are more preferentially obtained from amino polymers and the ammonium salts thereof or from poly hydroxylated polymers.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the thiolated polymers used according to the invention are polymers that are soluble in lipophilic media.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compound is a polymeric compound of formula (X) in which q denotes an integer greater than or equal to 2, and POLY denotes a carbon-based and/or silicon-based, preferably silicon-based, polymeric radical, POLY also possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N or S, and/or one or more functions chosen from (thio)ester, (thio)ketone, (thio)amide, (thio)urea and (thio)carbamate functions, and/or possibly being substituted with one or more linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl or linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkoxy groups, it being understood that when POLY is substituted, the thiol functions may be borne by the substituent(s).
The weight-average molecular weight of the polythiol polymer compounds, such as those of formula (X), is generally between 500 and 400 000 g.mol’1, preferably between 500 and 150000 g.mol’1.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compounds are chosen from poly organo siloxanes including thiol groups on end chains, such as those of formula (XI) below:
HS-L4-Si(Ra)(Rb)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]n-Si(Ra)(Rb)-L5-SH (XI) in which formula (XI):
- Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group from among: (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl, (Ci-C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl;
- n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and more particularly the value of n is such that the weight- average molecular weight of the silicone ranges from 500 to 55 000 g.mol’1; in particular, n is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, preferably ranging from 5 to 50 and preferentially ranging from 10 to 30, and
- L4 and L5, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally cyclic hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, and in particular represent a covalent bond or a (Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylenoxy, oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylenoxy(Ci- C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylenoxy(Ci-C6)alkylenoxy or oxy(Ci-C6)alkylenoxy(Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably a (Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylenoxy, oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene or (Ci- Ce) alky lenoxy (C i -Ce) alkylene group .
Preferentially, the (poly)thiol compounds are polythiol polyorganosiloxanes, more preferentially polythiol poly dimethylsiloxanes, notably chosen from those of formula (XII): HS-L4-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O]n-Si(CH3)2-L5-SH (XII) in which formula (XII):
- L4 and L5 are as defined previously in formula (IX), in particular L4 and L5 represent a (Ci- C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylenoxy, oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene or (Ci-C6)alkylenoxy(Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferentially a divalent group chosen from -R2-, -O-R2-, -R2-O- and -R2- O-R2-, preferably -R2-O-R2-, with R2 representing a linear or branched, preferably linear, (C2-C6)alkylene group, such as ethylene or n-propylene, preferably n-propylene; and
- n is as defined in formula (XI).
As polythiol compounds of formula (XII), mention may be made of mercaptosiloxanes or thiolated siloxanes in which the thiol functions are at the chain ends, sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference X-22-167B, and mercaptosiloxane in which the mercapto functions are pendent, sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KF-2001, or polydimethylsiloxanes in which the thiol functions are at the chain ends, via thio-n-propyl, 80-120 groups, sold by the company Gelest under the name DMS-SM 21.
Preferentially, the polythiol compounds are chosen polyorganosiloxanes including thiol groups on side chains, such as those of formula (XIII): Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKi-SH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XIII) in which formula (XIII):
- Ra and Rb are as defined in formula (XI) and Rd is as defined for Ra and Rb, preferably Ra, Rb and Rd, which are identical, represent a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, such as methyl;
- Rd may also represent a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group substituted with a (Ci -Chalky lamino or amino or thiol group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl;
- ALKi represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O or S, or combinations thereof such as -O- , -O-C(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene and more preferentially (Ci-C4)alkylene group such as propylene;
- n and m, which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the values of m and n are such that the weight- average molecular weight of said poly organo siloxane is between 1000 and 55 000 g.mol’1.
As examples of polythiol compounds of formula (XIII), mention may be made of those sold by the company Genesee Polymers under the names GP-367, GP-71-SS, GP-800 and GP- 710s, preferably GP-367, sold by the company Genesee Polymers.
The polythiol compounds are notably polydimethylsiloxanes including at least two thiol groups, for instance the products SMS-022, SMS-042 and SMS-992 sold by the company Gelest in https://www.gpcsilicones.com/products/silicone-fluids/mercapto-functional, https://www.shinetsusilicone-global.com/products/type/oil/detail/search/deg07.shtml, and 1053_Reactive Silicones_Silanes/Silicones - Gelest.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compounds are chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one thiol group and dendrimers bearing at least one thiol group, such as thiolated PAMAM dendrimers.
Preferably, the (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are chosen from polydiallylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes, including at least two thiol groups such as those of formula (XIII).
According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent is a (poly)acrylate compound. The term ^(poly)acrylate” means a compound which comprises at least one acrylate ester group H2C=C(Re)-C(0)-Y- with Re representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, preferably Re representing a hydrogen atom, and Y representing an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom.
More particularly, the (poly)acrylate(s) of the invention are of formula (XIV): L[-Y-C(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV) in which formula (XIV) q and L are as defined in formula (VIII), Y and Re being as defined previously, preferably Y = O and Re = H.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compounds of formula (XIV) are such that L represents a di- or trivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, Y represents O, and Re represents a hydrogen atom.
According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compounds are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes including at least one acrylate group on the side chain, such as those of formula (XV): Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKi-Y-C(O)-C(Re)=CH2)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XV) in which formula (XV):
- Ra, Rb and Rd are as defined for formula (XIII), preferably Ra, Rb and Rd represent a (Ci- Ce)alkyl group, such as methyl,
- ALKi is as defined for formula (XIII), preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferentially a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, such as propylene,
- n and m, which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the values of m and n are such that the weight- average molecular weight of said poly organo siloxane is between 1000 and 55 000 g.mol’1.
- Y is as defined previously, and is preferably an oxygen atom.
More particularly, the (poly)acrylate compound may be chosen from 1,3-butanediol diacrylate, 1,4-butanediol diacrylate, bis(trimethylolpropane) tetraacrylate, glyceryl 1,3- diglycerolate diacrylate, glyceryl propoxylate (1PO/OH) triacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol ethoxylate diacrylate, hydroxypivalyl hydroxypivalate, neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol propoxylate (1PO/OH) diacrylate, pentaery thrityl tetraacrylate, pentaerythrityl triacrylate, poly(propylene glycol) diacrylate, tricyclo[5.2.1.02,6]decanedimethanol diacrylate, trimethylolpropane ethoxylate (1EO/OH) methyl ether diacrylate, trimethylolpropane propoxylate triacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, tri(propylene glycol) diacrylate, and tris [2- (acryloyloxy)ethyl] isocyanurate.
The (poly)acrylate compound may also be chosen from N,N’ -methylenebisacrylamide.
According to this embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compound is combined in its implementation with an amine catalyst as described, for example, in Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine, DMAP (dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5- diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferentially chosen from DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5- diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).
More particularly, the (poly)acrylate compounds are chosen from those of formula (XIV), notably trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), notably copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropylmethylsiloxane.
D) Metal alkoxides
According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a compound chosen from the metal alkoxides of formulae (XIVa), (XlVb), (XIVC) and (XlVa) below and mixtures thereof:
. M-(ORl)n (XIVa)
. R-M-(ORi)n-i (XlVb)
. (RiO)n-i-M-R”-M’-(ORi’)n -i (XIVc)
. R-M(R’)-(0Ri)n-2 (XlVd) in which formulae (XIVa), (XIVb), (XIVc) and (XIVa):
- M and M’, which may be identical or different, represent an atom chosen from alkaline- earth metals, transition metals, metals of the lanthanide family, post-transition metals such as aluminium or tin and metalloids such as boron; preferably transition metals such as Ti and post-transition metals such as aluminium;
- n and n’ respectively represent the valencies of the atoms represented by M and M’;
- Ri and Ri’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally interrupted with 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P, notably O or N; and/or said hydrocarbonbased group being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or carbonyl groups;
- R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and/or P, notably O or N, and/or said hydrocarbonbased group being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or carbonyl groups;
- R” represents -O-, -N(R2)-, -S- or a linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P, notably O or N, with R2 representing a linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
Preferably, M and M’, which may be identical or different, represent an atom chosen from transition metals such as titanium or zirconium or alkaline-earth metals such as magnesium, more preferentially chosen from transition metals such as titanium or zirconium, even more preferentially titanium.
Preferably, the organometallic compound(s) are chosen from the alkoxides of formula (XIVa) as defined previously. According to this preferred embodiment, the organometallic
compound(s) are more particularly chosen from the alkoxides of formula (XIVa), in which M represents an atom chosen from transition metals, metals of the lanthanide family, posttransition metals, such as aluminium, tin, metalloids, such as boron, or alkaline-earth metals, such as magnesium or calcium; n represents the valency of the atom represented by M; Ri represents a saturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
According to another more preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are chosen from the alkoxides of formula (XIVa), in which M represents an atom chosen from transition metals, such as zirconium or titanium, metals of the lanthanide family, posttransition metals, such as aluminium or tin, metalloids, such as boron, and alkaline-earth metals, such as magnesium, preferably M represents a titanium atom; n represents the valency of the atom represented by M, notably 1, 2, 3 or 4, in particular 4; Ri represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or t-butyl group.
According to an even more preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are chosen from zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2Hs)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide Zr(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4, zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2Hs)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (T OCthCthCthCth^), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium 2- ethylhexyloxide (Ti(OCH2CH(C2Hs)(CH2)3CH3)4), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the crosslinking agent R is a compound of formula (XIVa) preferably in which M represents an atom chosen from transition metals, notably titanium such as titanium butoxide.
According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a (poly)carbonyl compound.
In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compound is chosen from terephthalaldehyde, 5,5- dimethyl-l,3-cyclohexanedione, phenylglyoxal, isophthalaldehyde, 4- acetylbenzaldehyde, 4,4-diformyltriphenylamine, 2-acetylbenzaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-
carboxaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-acetylbenzaldehyde, 9-(2- ethylhexyl)carbazole-3,6-dicarboxaldehyde, phthaldialdehyde, 1,3-cyclohexanedione, 4,4’- biphenyldicarboxaldehyde, benzene- 1, 3, 5-tricarboxaldehyde, and nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides such as oxidized inulins, notably those of formula (II) as defined hereinbelow. In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compounds include a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic C5-C7 carbocycle, preferably aromatic, such as phenyl, or non-aromatic and saturated such as cyclohexyl, more preferentially unsaturated and aromatic, such as terephthaldehy de .
According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound(s) are chosen from nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides comprising one or more aldehyde groups, and optionally one or more anionic groups.
These anionic groups are preferably carboxyl or carboxylate groups.
The nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides according to the invention may be represented by formula (II) below:
P-(CHO)m (COOQ)n (II) in which formula (II):
- P represents a polysaccharide chain preferably consisting of monosaccharides comprising 5 carbon atoms or more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more than 6 carbon atoms and more particularly 6 carbon atoms;
- Q is chosen from a hydrogen atom, the ions derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline- earth metal such as sodium or potassium, ammonia, organic amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and 3-amino-l,2-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine and citrulline;
- m + n is greater than or equal to 1 ;
- m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide with one or more aldehyde groups (DS(CHO)) is within the range from 0.001 to 2 and preferably from 0.005 to 1.5;
- n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide with one or more carboxylic groups (DS(COOX)) is within the range from 0 to 2 and preferably from 0.001 to 1.5.
The expression “degree of substitution DS(CHO) or DS(COOX) of the polysaccharides according to the invention” means the ratio between the number of carbons oxidized to give an aldehyde or carboxylic group for all the repeating units and the number of elementary monosaccharides (even opened by preoxidation) constituting the polysaccharide. The groups
CHO and COOX may be obtained during the oxidation of certain carbon atoms, for example on the carbon atoms 2, 3 or 6, of a saccharide unit containing 6 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the oxidation may take place on carbons 2 and 3, more particularly of 0.01% to 75% by number, and preferably of 0.1% to 50% by number of the rings that may have been opened.
The polysaccharide chain, represented by P, is preferably chosen from celluloses, starches, maltodextrins, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, acacia gums, polyxylans and tragacanth gums, and derivatives thereof.
The term “derivative” means the compounds obtained by chemical modification of the mentioned compounds. They may be esters, amides or ethers of said compounds.
The oxidation may take place according to a process known in the art, for example according to the process described in FR 2 842 200, in document FR 2 854 161 or in the article “Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses” by E. Fredon et al., Carbohydrate Polymers 49, pages 1 to 12 (2002).
Another oxidation process is described in the article “Water soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reaction extrusion” Industrial Crops and Products 7, R.E. Wing, J.L. Willet, 45- 52 (1997).
According to this embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound is combined in its implementation with an amine catalyst as described in the articles Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) wa Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine, DMAP (dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5- diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferentially chosen from DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane) and DBN (1,5- diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8- diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).
F) Metal salts
According to another particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a metal salt chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, transition metal salts, post-transition metal salts such as aluminium or tin salts, metalloid salts such as boron salts, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the metal salt(s) are chosen from post-transition metal salts such as aluminium salts, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof.
The term “metal salt” means a salt resulting notably from the action of an acid on a metal, in particular a transition metal, post-transition metal, metalloid, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal.
The metal salt(s) may be in the form of hydrates.
The metal salt(s) may be organic or inorganic.
The term “organic metal salt” means a salt resulting notably from the action of an organic acid on a metal, in particular transition metals, post-transition metals, metalloids, alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, preferably resulting from the action of a carboxylic acid on a metal.
Preferably the metal salt(s) are chosen from organic metal salts, hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof.
The term “inorganic metal salt” means a salt resulting notably from the action of an inorganic acid on a metal, in particular a transition metal, a post-transition metal, a metalloid, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal.
The term “inorganic acid” means an acid which does not include any carbon atoms, apart from carbonic acid.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the inorganic metal salt(s) may be chosen from halides such as chlorides, fluorides, iodides and bromides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, nitrates, perchlorates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.
According to a more particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is an organic metal salt derived from a carboxylic acid.
More particularly, the crosslinking agent R is an organic metal salt chosen from metal (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylates of alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, transition metals, and post-transition metals such as aluminium.
It is understood that the metal (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylate means that the (Ci- Ce)alkyl group is optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and one or more carboxyl or carboxylate groups. Preferably, the metal (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci- C6)alkylcarboxylate represents Ra-C(O)-OM with M representing a transition metal such as titanium (Ti), or else a post-transition metal such as aluminium (Al), and Ra represents a
linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the metal salt(s) are organic, preferably chosen from citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, glycinates and tartrates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially acetates, lactates or mixtures thereof such as aluminium acetate or aluminium lactate.
According to a preferred embodiment, the metal salt(s) are chosen from basic aluminium acetate, aluminium oxalate, hydrated or non-hydrated aluminium citrate, aluminium lactate and aluminium glycinate, and mixtures thereof.
According to an even more preferred embodiment, the metal salt is basic aluminium acetate.
G) Rare-earth metal derivatives
According to another particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a compound of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals M”, and notably a salt of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals.
The term ‘"salt of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals” means a salt notably derived from the action of an acid on a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals.
The compound(s) of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals may be in the form of hydrates.
The compound(s) of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals may be organic or mineral. They may or may not be in salt form.
The term “organic salt of a metal belonging to the rare-earth metal group” means a salt notably derived from the action of an organic acid (notably a carboxylic acid) on a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals.
The term “mineral salt of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals” means a salt notably derived from the action of a mineral acid on a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals.
The term “mineral acid” means an acid which does not include any carbon atoms, apart from carbonic acid.
As examples of metals belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals M”, mention may be made of scandium, yttrium, lanthanum, cerium, praseodymium, neodymium, promethium, samarium, europium, gadolinium, terbium, dysprosium, holmium, erbium, thulium, ytterbium and lutetium. Preferably, the metal(s) belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are chosen from cerium, yttrium, ytterbium, lanthanum and europium; more preferentially, the metal(s) belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals M” are chosen from cerium and yttrium.
Preferably, the metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals M” is chosen from cerium, yttrium, ytterbium, lanthanum and europium, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals is chosen from cerium and yttrium, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals M’ ’ is in the oxidation state +III.
According to the invention, the compound of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals is chosen from rare-earth metal salts and rare-earth metal complexes.
The term “rare-earth metal complex” refers to the combination of the metal M’ ’ with one or more ligands.
In the text hereinbelow, the term “ligand” refers to an ion or a molecule bearing a group which combines, via an ionic bond and/or a coordination bond, with the metal M” . The same ligand may bear several groups which combine via an ionic bond and/or a coordination bond. A definition of rare-earth metal salts or complexes may be found in: Progress in the Science and Technology of the Rare Earths, Volume 1, edited by Leroy Eyring in 1964, published by Macmillan Company and written by F. Gaume-Mahn, page 259 el seq.
The rare-earth metal salts and complexes according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one metal atom M” belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals and that said atom is in the +111 oxidation state.
The metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals M” may then be associated, via its electron shell, with nl anionic groups forming an ionic bond with M” and/or with n2 groups forming a coordination bond with M”. The groups forming a coordination bond are, for example, groups with a donor doublet, such as carbonyl or amine.
If n2 = 0, the compound of the metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals forms a salt and, in this case, the metal M” belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals is associated with three anionic groups.
If n2 > 0, the compound of the metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals forms a complex and, in this case, the number of anionic groups nl may range from 0 to 3.
The metal M’ ’ belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals is associated with one or more anionic groups and/or one or more groups forming a coordination bond.
The ligands associated with the metals belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals M” to form a corresponding rare-earth metal complex are as described below. a) Typically, the ligand may be a monoanionic ion, which may or may not be monoatomic, such as a nitrate, or a hydroxyl (OH-) or a halide (typically chloride or bromide). By way of example, the resulting rare-earth metal compound may then be M”C13, M”(0H)3 or M”(NO3)3, and in particular CcNCh, YNO3, LaNCh, CeCh, YCI3, LaCh, more preferentially rare-earth metal halides, notably Ce and Y halides such as CeCh and YCI3. b) The ligand may be a dianionic or trianionic ion, such as phosphate or sulfate. By way of example, mention may be made of rare-earth metal compounds such as MPO4, or M2(SO4)3 and in particular CePC , YPO4, LaPC , Ce2(SO4)3, Y2(SO4)3 and La2(SO4)3. c) The ligand may contain one or more groups forming a coordination bond and a function forming an ionic bond.
Thus, the ligand may be a monocarboxylate or polycarboxylate molecule, such as acetate or succinate. In this case, it is considered that the carboxylate function acts as an anionic group, by means of the hydroxyl of the carboxylic group, and acts as a group forming a coordination bond by means of the lone pair on the oxygen of the carbonyl function. Thus, the resulting rare-earth metal compound may be M”(R-(COO)n)3/n. In addition to bearing one or more carboxylates, the ligand may include other functions, such as hydroxyls or amines. Thus, the ligand may consist totally or partially of hydroxycarboxylic acids or aminocarboxylic acids. As monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic compound bearing additional functions, mention may be made of tartrate, citrate, glycolate or ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA) ions.
The ligand may bear a non-localized anionic charge, for instance acetylacetonate. The rare- earth metal compound will then be M”(acetylacetonate)3 or M”(acetylacetonate)3-7H2O in which each acetonate bonds to the metal M” via its two carbonyl functions, one acting as an anionic group, the other as a group bonding by coordination.
The ligand may also be of the aromatic type, such as a phenol, a cyclopentadiene (Progress in the Science and Technology of the Rare Earths, published by Leroy Eyring and written by F. Gaume-Mahn, page 296), or a pyridine. d) The rare-earth metal compound may include one or more ligands forming a coordination bond and one or more ligands forming an ionic bond. Thus, the rare-earth metal compound may be yttrium dihydroxyacetate Y((OH)2acetate) (Synthesis and Properties of Yttrium Hydroxyacetate Sols by S.S. Balabanov, E.M. Gavrishchuk, and D.A. Permin, Inorganic Materials, 2012, Vol. 48, No. 5, pages 500-503). e) The rare-earth metal compound may be a mixed salt in which one of the cations M’” represents a cation other than a rare-earth metal cation, for instance an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a cationic organic cation, notably a quaternary amine (or ammonium), for example mono/di/tri/tetra(Ci-C4)alkylammonium, or mono/di(Ci-C4)alkyl imidazolium, (Ci-C4)alkylpyridinium; more particularly, the mixed salt rare-earth metal compound is Li,Ce(SO4)2.
The compounds belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals, which are often highly hygroscopic, may be in the form of hydrates, for instance CeCh- EhO, YCh-bEhO, LaC13-7H2O or Ce(acetonate)3-xH2O.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are chosen from the salts of organic acids such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, tartrates, mesylates and methosulfates, notably gluconates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the salt(s) of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are mineral salts.
Preferably, the mineral salt(s) of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are chosen from halides such as chlorides, fluorides, iodides and bromides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, nitrates and perchlorates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the mineral salt(s) of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are chosen from halides such as chlorides, fluorides, iodides and bromides, and nitrates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the mineral salt(s) of a metal belonging to the group of the rare- earth metals are chosen from chlorides and nitrates, hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compound(s) belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are chosen from Ce(NO3)3, Y(NO3)3, La(NO3)3, CeCh, YCh and LaCh, and mixtures thereof.
According to an even more preferred embodiment, the compound(s) belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals are chosen from CeCh and YCh, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent iii) is chosen from (poly)amine compounds A), (poly)thiol compounds B), (poly)acrylate compounds C), , and preferably from (poly)amine compounds A) and (poly)thiol compounds B), and more preferentially from (poly)amine compounds A).
In particular, said (poly)amine compounds A) are chosen from a) chitosans, such as poly(D- glucosamine), b) polyether diamines, particularly polyethylene glycol a,co-diamine (bearing an amine function at the end of the chain), c) polyether triamines, such as polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), d) aminoalkoxysilanes, such as APTES, and e) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)- terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNth) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, notably the product sold by Momentive Performance Materials.
According to a preferred embodiment, said (poly)amine compounds A) are chosen from a) chitosans, such as poly(D-glucosamine), c) polyether triamines, such as polyetheramine (or Jeffamine), and e) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, in particular poly dimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNth) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, notably the product sold by Momentive Performance Materials.
In particular, said (poly)thiol compounds B) are chosen from a) polydialkylsiloxanes bearing thiol functions, and b) alkoxysilanes bearing thiol functions, and in particular are chosen from a) poly dialkylsiloxanes bearing thiol functions, preferentially poly dimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain (such as mercaptopropyl), notably those of formula (XIII).
In particular, said (poly)acrylate C) compounds are chosen from those of formula (XIV), notably trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), notably copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropylmethylsiloxane, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) iii) are chosen from:
A) (poly)amine compounds chosen from: ia) chitosans such as poly(D-glucosamine), ib) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, more particularly bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly (dimethoxy siloxane) (PDMS-diNth) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, more particularly bis-cetearyl amodimethicone ;
B) (poly)thiol compounds chosen from: iia) polydialkylsiloxanes bearing thiol functions, and iib) alkoxysilanes bearing thiol functions, and in particular chosen from iia) polydialkylsiloxanes bearing thiol functions, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain, in particular mercaptopropyl, and more particularly chosen from the compounds of formula (XIII): Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKi-SH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XIII) in which formula (XIII):
- Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci- C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferentially methyl,
- Rd represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group substituted with a (Ci-C4)alkylamino, amino or thiol group, and preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferentially methyl, and preferably Ra, Rb and Rd are identical and represent a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, more preferentially methyl,
- ALKi represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O or S, or combinations thereof, in particular -O-, -O-C(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene and more preferentially (C1-C4) alkylene group, even more preferentially propylene,
- n and m, which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and in particular the values of m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of said poly organo siloxane is between 1000 and 55 000 g.mol’1; and
C) the (poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV): L[-Y-C(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV) in which formula (XIV):
- q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is between 2 and 10 inclusive and preferably between 2 and 5,
- L denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, multivalent (at least divalent) group, in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and/or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and/or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and/or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms; L being optionally interrupted and/or terminated with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and combinations thereof, in particular -O-, -O-C(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, in particular methyl; and/or L being optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb and -(X’)a-C(X)-(X”)b-Ra; withX, X’ andX”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group N(Rb); a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b being 1; Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group or an aryl(Ci-C4) alkyl group, in particular benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom, and Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a (Ci-Ce)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-Ce/alkoxy group,
- Re represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; preferably, Re represents a hydrogen atom, and
- Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom,
preferably Y is an oxygen atom and Re is a hydrogen atom, preferably L represents a di- or trivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and more preferentially, the compounds of formula (XIV) are trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
COSMETIC ACTIVE AGENTS iv)
According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention also comprises the application of iv) at least one cosmetic active agent to keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
More particularly, in the treatment process according to the invention, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” used comprises one or more cosmetic active agents.
In particular, the cosmetic active agent(s) iv) are chosen from: a) dyestuffs (or colouring agents), in particular chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the at least one cosmetic agent is chosen from dyestuffs, preferably chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, more preferentially pigments.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional cosmetic active agent(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more dyestuffs.
More particularly, in the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” used comprises at least one particulate or nonparticulate, water-soluble or water- insoluble dyestuff, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition considered.
For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired colour effect and of the colour intensity afforded by the dyestuffs under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
Preferably, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, preferably other than rhodamine B, more particularly other than fluorescent dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially pigments. More preferentially, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, in particular Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more particularly D&C Red 7, an alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferentially chosen from red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more particularly D&C Red 7.
Pigments
For the purposes of the invention, the term “pigment” means any compound that is capable of imparting colour to keratin materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
As pigments that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, notably those described in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
These pigments may be synthetic or natural.
These pigments may be in pigment powder or paste form.
They may be coated or uncoated.
These pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof. A pigment that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from mineral pigments.
The term “mineral pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides or dioxides, and also of zinc, iron or chromium oxides.
It may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30. They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
Advantageously, the pigments may be iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
A pigment that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from organic pigments.
The term “organic pigment” means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments. Among the organic pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds. In particular, the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
Examples that may also be mentioned include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names: Cosmenyl Yellow IOG: Yellow 3 pigment (CI 11710); Cosmenyl G yellow: Yellow 1 pigment (CI 11680); Cosmenyl GR orange: Orange 43 pigment (CI 71105); Cosmenyl R red: Red 4 pigment (CI 12085); Cosmenyl FB carmine: Red 5 pigment (CI 12490); Cosmenyl RL violet: Violet 23 pigment (CI 51319); Cosmenyl A2R blue: Blue 15.1 pigment (CI 74160); Cosmenyl GG green: Green 7 pigment (CI 74260); Cosmenyl R black: Black 7 pigment (CI 77266).
The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may particularly be composed of particles including an inorganic core, at least one binder for attaching the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
The organic pigment may also be a lake.
The term “lake” refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium. Among the dyes adsorbed on organic substrates, mention may be made of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985) D & C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42090), FDC Red 4, D & C Red 6, D & C Red 22, D & C Red 28, D & C Red 30, D & C Orange 4, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Green 5, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, Sudan red, carotenes (P-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianine, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin, beet juice and caramel.
An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
The pigment may also be a pigment with special effects.
The term “pigments with special effects” refers to pigments that generally create a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance) that is non-uniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thereby differ from coloured pigments, which afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
Several types of special effect pigments exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 pm.
The pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12- hydroxy stearic acid in particular and of Cs to C20 fatty acid and of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel Pl 00 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof. As other dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Coming under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C. The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent. According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) are of amino silicone type other than the alkoxysilanes described previously and are cationic. Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic, or organic pigments.
According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferentially organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
Direct d es
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active agent is a dyestuff chosen from one or more direct dyes.
The term “direct dye” means natural and/or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will spread superficially over the fibre. They may be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.
Among the direct dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (A) and (B) below and the azo cationic dyes of formulae (C) and
(D) below:
Het+-C(Ra)=N-N(Rb)-Ar, Q’ (A)
Het+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q’ (B)
Het+-N=N-Ar, Q’ (C)
Ar+-N=N-Ar”, Q' (D) in which formulae (A) to (D):
- Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with at least one (Ci-Cs)alkyl group such as methyl;
- Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium, particularly tri(Ci-Cs)alkylammonium, such as trimethylammonium;
Ar represents an aryl group, notably phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more electron-donating groups such as optionally substituted (Ci-
Cs)alkyl, optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkoxy, (di)(Ci-Cs)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, aryl(Ci-Cs)alkylamino, and optionally substituted N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-Cs)alkylamino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;
- Ar’ ’ represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group, such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more (Ci-Cs)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-Cs)(alkyl)amino, (Ci-Cs)alkoxy or phenyl groups;
- Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Cs)alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group; or else the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar form, together with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; in particular, Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;
- Q" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate. In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono direct dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae (A) to (D) as defined previously, more particularly the cationic direct dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714 954.
Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from the compounds of formulae (E) and (F) below:
in which formulae (E) and (F):
- R1 represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;
- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;
- R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkyl, optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkoxy, or (di)(Ci-Cs)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; in particular, R4 is a hydrogen atom;
- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH;
- Q" is an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide, such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate, such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
In particular, the dyes of formulae (E) and (F) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof with Q’ being an anionic counterion as defined previously, particularly a halide such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl. The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as “acid” direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances.
The term “anionic direct dye” means any direct dye including in its structure at least one CO2R’ or SO3R’ substituent with R’ denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
The anionic direct dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and particularly hennabased poultices or extracts.
Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
The dyestuffs, preferably the pigments, may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
The direct dye(s) may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
Preferably, the cosmetic active agent(s), in particular the dyestuff(s) and more particularly the pigment(s), are introduced into at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”.
Active agents for haircare
According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more active agents for haircare.
More particularly, in the process of the invention, according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” used comprises one or more active agents for haircare, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition considered. In particular, the care active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent and/or one lipophilic active agent, and preferably a hydrophilic care active agent.
The term “hydrophilic active agent” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent that is capable of forming hydrogen bonds.
The cosmetic active agent(s) for haircare may notably be chosen from active agents having an action on the barrier function, antioxidant active agents, moisturizing active agents, sebum-regulating active agents, active agents intended for combating the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal active agents, fragrances, vitamins and derivatives thereof, notably esters thereof, in particular tocopherol (vitamin E) and esters thereof (such as tocopheryl acetate), mixtures thereof.
The active agent(s) for care may in particular be present, in the composition containing same, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.02% to 25% by weight.
According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” used comprises, as cosmetic active agent, at least one UV- screening agent.
The UV-screening agent is a UV-screening agent normally used in cosmetics.
It may be chosen from the positive list contained in Annex VI of (EC) Regulation No. 1223/2009, which specifies the list of UV-screening agents permitted in cosmetics.
The UV-screening agents that are suitable for use in the invention may be of varied nature. They may be lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic agents.
The term “lipophilic UV-screening agent” means any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent that can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
The term “hydrophilic UV-screening agent” means any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent that can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
The term “insoluble UV-screening agent” means any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is not defined either as a lipophilic UV-screening agent or as a hydrophilic UV- screening agent, and which is in the form of particles in aqueous phase or liquid fatty phase. The UV-screening agents of the composition according to the invention may afford UVA and/or UVB photoprotection.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions, which are preferably cosmetic compositions, may comprise at least one organic and/or mineral UV-screening agent (for screening out the UV radiation of sunlight).
In particular, the UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidenecamphor derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The organic UV-screening agents may also be chosen from anthranilic derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, notably those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis- benzazolyl derivatives, as described in patents EP 6 693 23 and US 2 463 264; p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26, 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole derivatives, such as those described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those notably described in patent application WO
93/04665; a-alkylstyrene -based dimers such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; other merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04/006878, WO 05/058269 and WO 06/032741, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of the organic UV- screening agents in the compositions ranges from 1% to 50%, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, for example from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The UV-screening agent(s) may be mineral UV-screening agents, which are generally pigments. The pigments may or may not be coated.
Thus, the mineral UV-screening agents may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, and in particular from coated titanium oxide pigments, silicone-treated titanium oxides, uncoated titanium oxide pigments, uncoated zinc oxide pigments, coated zinc oxide pigments, uncoated cerium oxide pigments, uncoated iron oxide pigments, coated iron oxide pigments, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, compositions “Cl” to “C5” are free of mineral UV- screening agents.
According to a particular embodiment, the amount of the mineral UV-screening agent(s) present in compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing same. It ranges, for example, from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions “Cl” to “C5” also comprises one or more organic UV-screening agents and one or more mineral UV-screening agents.
According to a particular embodiment, the compositions comprise a combination of UV- screening agents as described in patent FR 2 977 490, patent application WO 2013/004777 or patent application US 2014/0134120.
Preferably, the process for treating keratin fibres, preferably the hair, and compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” use or comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably pigments; more preferentially, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, notably yellow,
red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, notably blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, notably red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7, an alkali metal salt of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferentially red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, notably red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7.
FATTY PHASE - FATTY SUBSTANCES
According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention also uses v) one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils.
In particular, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”, in particular at least the composition “C4”, used in the process of the invention contains a fatty phase.
In particular, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”, in particular at least the composition “C4”, used in the process of the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils.
The term “oil” refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) v) are chosen from volatile oils, in particular:
- hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), linear alkanes, in particular C11-C16 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, in particular n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), the undecanetridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof
and also mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridccanc (C13), and volatile C5-C12 cyclic, nonaromatic alkanes;
- short-chain esters containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;
- carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R’ I-0-C(0)-0-R’2 in which R’i and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously chosen more preferentially from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;
- ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which Ri and R2, independently of each other, denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group;
- silicone oils, in particular comprising from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, and optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the volatile oil(s) v) are chosen from Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, preferably isododecane.
In particular, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”, in particular at least the composition “C4”, used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile oils, preferably chosen from:
- non-volatile fluoro oils, in particular chosen from fluorinated polyethers, fluoro silicone oils and fluorosilicones;
- non-volatile silicone oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof;
- non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular chosen from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin: i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, in
particular mixtures whose INCI names are (Cis-Ci9)Alkane, (C18-C21) Alkane, (C21- C28) Alkane, iv) hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes; v) hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated, vi) hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polydecenes, vii) decene/butene copolymers, butene/isobutene copolymers and viii) mixtures thereof;
- non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be chosen from: i) saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; in particular, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2- hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; ii) triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from Cis to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; by way of example, mention may notably be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, plant oils such as wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, com oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, groundnut oil, coconut oil, argan oil, passionflower oil, kaya oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and also mixtures thereof; iii) linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula R-C(O)-OR’ in which R-C(O)-O- represents the carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms in particular being at least 10; notably chosen from isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate or tridecyl octanoate, 2-
ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2- octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, in particular isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate; iv) hydroxylated esters, in particular polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; v) aromatic esters, in particular tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, the 2- phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate; vi) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, in particular pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; vii) esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, in particular triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2- decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate); viii) the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, in particular those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, in particular dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate; ix) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular dicaprylyl ether; x) dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, in particular dicaprylyl carbonate; xi) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, in particular vinylpyrrolidone/1 -hexadecene copolymer; and xii) mixtures thereof;
- the non-volatile carbonate oils may be chosen from the carbonates of formula Rs-O- C(O)-O-Rg, with Rs and R9, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially Ce to C10 alkyl chain; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate, dineopentyl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dineoheptyl
carbonate, diheptyl carbonate, diisononyl carbonate or dinonyl carbonate and preferably dioctyl carbonate;
- oils known as non-volatile ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a Ce-Cis alkyl group, and preferably Cs-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for Ri and R2 to be identical. Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3- dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7- dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. As cyclic alkyl groups, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3 -methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, preferably hydrogenated, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range; mixtures of C15-C19 alkanes, and from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula R-C(O)-OR’ in which R-C(0)-0 represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, as defined previously, in particular isononyl isononanoate.
More preferentially, the process of the invention uses one or more hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, alone or as mixtures, and more preferentially isododecane.
In particular, the amount of oil(s) in at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5”, in particular at least the composition “C4”, used in the process according to the invention ranges from 1% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 2% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 97%, better still from 5% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
COMPOSITIONS
According to the invention, the process for treating keratin fibres, preferably the hair, uses compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”. “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4”, “C5”; preferably all of the compositions according to the invention are cosmetic. More particularly, the process uses water.
Thus, the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”. “C2”, “C3” and “C’3” used in the process of the invention comprise water, and the compositions “C4” and “C5” optionally comprise water. Thus, in particular, the composition “Cl” or “C’ l” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. Preferably, the composition “Cl” or “C’ 1” is aqueous.
In particular, the composition “C2” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. Preferably the composition “C2” is aqueous.
In particular, the composition “C3” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. Preferably the composition “C3” is aqueous.
In particular, the composition “C’3” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. Preferably the composition “C’3” is aqueous.
In particular, the composition “C4” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. Preferably the composition “C4” is aqueous.
In particular, the composition “C5” is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
According to one embodiment, the compositions “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3” and “C4” are aqueous.
According to a particular embodiment, the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3” are aqueous-alcoholic. In particular, they comprise a polar solvent mixture, preferably protic polar solvent/water mixture, such as ethanol/water, in particular in a ratio by volume of between 1/99 to 99/1, more particularly between 10/90 to 90/10, even more particularly between 20/80 and 80/20, preferably 40/60 to 60/40, such as 50/50.
According to a particular embodiment, the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions “C4” or “C5” may be in anhydrous, water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion form.
According to a particular embodiment, composition “C4” is anhydrous. In particular, composition “C4” is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil, preferably isododecane.
The compositions “Cl” to “C5” used in the process of the invention may also comprise one or more solvents, other than water.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (co)polymer(s) as defined previously are used in a medium containing at least one solvent, preferably at least one polar and/or protic solvent, other than water.
According to this embodiment, composition “Cl”, and/or “C’ 1”, and/or “C2”, and/or “C3”, and/or “C’3”, and/or “C4” and/or “C5”, used in the process of the invention, comprises one or more solvents, preferably one or more polar and/or protic solvents other than water.
Preferably, composition “Cl”, and/or “C’ l”, and/or “C2”, and/or “C3”, and/or “C’3”, and/or “C4”, and/or “C5”, used in the process of the invention comprises at least one polar and/or protic solvent chosen from monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from ethanol, propanol, n-butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanol and hexanol, preferably n-butanol or ethanol, and even more preferentially ethanol.
According to one embodiment, composition “Cl”, and/or “C’ 1”, and/or “C2”, and/or “C3”, and/or “C’3”, and/or “C4”, and/or “C5” used in the process of the invention comprises one or more solvents other than water, in a content of less than 70% by weight, more preferentially less than 50% by weight, even more preferentially less than 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of water.
Organic solvents that may also be mentioned include polyols that are miscible with water at room temperature (25°C), notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene
glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition under consideration also comprises one or more polyols notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glycerol.
The compositions “Cl”, “C’l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” used in the process of the invention may also comprise one or more adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics, in particular chosen from thickeners, film-forming agents, gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestrants, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, dispersants, preserving agents, fillers, surfactants, free-radical scavengers, propellants, polar additives and polymers other than i), or mixtures thereof.
Another subject of the invention is a composition “C’3” comprising i) at least one (co)polymer as defined previously, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent other than rhodamine B, in particular as defined previously. Preferably, composition “C’3” comprises iv) at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, other than rhodamine B (more particularly other than fluorescent dyes), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially pigments.
Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of composition “C’3” as defined previously, for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
A composition “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” is generally suitable for application to keratin fibres, in particular application to the hair, and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair.
Said compositions “Cl” to “C5” are cosmetic compositions, i), iii) and optionally iv) and/or v) being in a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging or tautness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
According to a particular embodiment, a composition “Cl”, “C’ 1”, “C2”, “C3”, “C’3”, “C4” or “C5” is in the form of a haircare product, in particular a hair dyeing product or a styling
product notably free of dyestuff, such as a lacquer, or a “styling” product of the foam or gel type.
KIT
According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention is also directed towards a multicompartment kit or device, notably a cosmetic kit or device, comprising:
- at least one compartment containing i) at least one (co)polymer as defined previously, ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously, in particular comprising composition “Cl” or “C’ l” as defined previously;
- at least one compartment different from the one which contains i) and containing iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously, optionally ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously, in particular comprising composition “C4” as defined previously; and
- optionally, at least one compartment different from those containing i) and iii), and containing iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular as defined previously, which may be identical to or different from that/those optionally contained in the compartments comprising i) and iii).
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.
Example
Methods and Measurements
Hair dyeing application
The hair dyeing evaluation protocol is detailed below:
The evaluations are conducted according to two different protocols: in 1 or 2 step(s), each on locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair strands. a) One -step protocol
The (co)polymers bearing acetoacetate functions, and optionally the crosslinking agents, are mixed together before application. The system remains fluid long enough to allow application to the substrate.
The composition is applied to locks of dry natural hair containing 90% white hairs, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
The locks of hair are left for 5 minutes at room temperature.
The locks of hair are then combed and dried with a hairdryer for 3 minutes.
The locks of hair are left dried at room temperature for 24 hours at 40% relative humidity.
The hair is dyed uniformly and intensely.
The locks of hair thus coloured are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoo washes so as to evaluate the fastness (persistence) of the colouring obtained with respect to shampoo washing, according to the shampoo washing protocol described below. b) Two-step protocol
A first composition, termed the “base coat”, is applied to locks of dry natural hair containing 90% white hairs, in a proportion of 0.5 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks are then combed and dried with a hairdryer.
Three hours after this first gesture, a second composition, termed the “top coat”, is applied to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.5 g per gram of lock.
After application, the locks of hair are combed and dried with a hairdryer.
The locks of hair are left at room temperature for 24 hours under a fume cupboard. The hair is dyed uniformly and intensely.
The locks of hair thus coloured are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoo washes so as to evaluate the fastness (persistence) of the colouring obtained with respect to shampoo washes, according to the shampoo washing protocol described below.
Shampoo washing protocol
The locks of dyed hair are combed, then moistened with water at 35°C and then passed between the fingers five times for 5 seconds. The locks of hair are then squeezed dry between two fingers.
A standard shampoo (Gamier Ultra Doux) is applied uniformly to the dyed locks, in a proportion of 0.4 g of standard shampoo per gram of locks, the locks of hair being massaged gently along the length (10 passes), from the root to the end.
Next, the locks of hair impregnated with shampoo are rinsed with water at 35 °C while passing the locks between the fingers (15 passes). The locks of hair are then squeezed dry between two fingers before the next shampoo wash.
Once the desired number of shampoo washes has been carried out, the locks of hair are combed and dried with a hairdryer.
Persistence protocol
The persistence of the colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the green/red colour axis and b* the blue/yellow colour axis.
The persistence of the colouring is evaluated by the difference in colour AE between the dyed locks before shampoo washing, and then after undergoing “x” shampoo washes according to the protocol described above.
The lower the AE value, the more persistent the colour with respect to shampoo washing.
In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after dyeing the hair and after performing “x” shampoo washes, and Lo*ao*bo* represent the values measured after dyeing the hair but before shampoo washing.
Styling application: styling evaluation protocol
The styling evaluation protocol is detailed below:
1 ) Application without crosslinker
2 g of a solution containing the formulas described hereinbelow are applied to a 1 g lock (90% Natural White NW hair) spread over aluminium foil, and then the lock is rolled up on a 5 cm curler and held with a hair clip.
The lock is left to dry on the curler at room temperature for 12 hours. The lock is then removed from the curler and left at room temperature for 24 hours.
To verify the water resistance, the locks are then immersed in a water bath for 20 minutes. The locks are removed from the water and left to dry at room temperature for 24 hours.
A comparison of the maintenance of the curl is then performed between the compositions according to the invention and the comparative compositions.
2 ) Application with crosslinker
2 g of a solution containing the formulas described hereinbelow (“base coat”) are applied to a 1 g lock (90% Natural White NW hair) spread over aluminium foil and then, directly thereafter and without intermediate drying, 2 g of formulation containing the crosslinking agent is applied. The lock is then rolled up around a 5 cm curler and is held with a hair clip.
The lock is left to dry on the curler at room temperature for 12 hours. The lock is then removed from the curler and left at room temperature for 24 hours.
To verify the water resistance, the locks are immersed in a water bath for 20 minutes. The locks are removed from the water and left to dry at room temperature for 24 hours.
A comparison of the curl maintenance is made between the compositions according to the invention and the comparative compositions.
Evaluation of the curl
Evaluation of the curl is calculated according to the following equation: E relaxation = LIT — L0 in which:
L0 = length after application to the curler and drying on the curler (length = 5 cm) at room temperature for 12 hours; and
LiT = length after having removed the lock from the curler and having left it to dry at room temperature for 24 hours, length after having immersed the lock in the water bath for 20 minutes and without drying (wet lock), length after having immersed the lock in the water bath for 20 minutes and having left it to dry at room temperature for 24 hours.
113.6 g of Mowiol 8-88 PVA (sold by Sigma Aldrich) and 400 g of DMSO are introduced into a 1 L reactor.
71.81 g (0.2 eq.) of tert-butyl acetoacetate (sold by Sigma- Aldrich) are added after dissolution of the medium.
The medium is heated to 120°C for 7 hrs, until a hot viscous yellow solution is obtained.
The precipitate is redissolved in heated water for 72 hours to a solids content of 7%. The solution is then concentrated to 25% using a rotary evaporator.
The synthesis is represented by the same preparation scheme as described in Example 1.
28.4 g of Mowiol 4-88 PVA (sold by Sigma Aldrich) and 100 g of DMSO are placed in a 1 L reactor.
8.97 g (0.1 eq.) of tert-butyl acetoacetate (sold by Sigma- Aldrich) are added after dissolving the medium.
The medium is heated at 120°C for 7 hrs, until a hot yellow viscous solution is obtained.
Several precipitations in 5 litres of acetone are performed to remove the DMSO.
The precipitate is redissolved in heated water for 72 hours then the solution is freeze-dried to obtain a water-soluble powder.
The synthesis is represented by the same preparation scheme as described in Example 1.
28.4 g of Mowiol 4-88 PVA (sold by Sigma Aldrich) and 100 g of DMSO are placed in a 1 L reactor.
22.4 g (0.25 eq.) of tert-butyl acetoacetate (sold by Sigma- Aldrich) are added after dissolving the medium.
The medium is heated at 120°C for 7 hrs, until a hot yellow viscous solution is obtained.
Several precipitations in 5 litres of acetone are performed to remove the DMSO.
The precipitate is redissolved in heated water for 72 hours then the solution is freeze-dried to obtain a water-soluble powder.
The synthesis is represented by the same preparation scheme as described in Example 1.
28.4 g of Mowiol 4-88 PVA (sold by Sigma Aldrich) and 100 g of DMSO are placed in a 1 L reactor.
26.9 g (0.30 eq.) of tert-butyl acetoacetate (sold by Sigma- Aldrich) are added after dissolving the medium.
The medium is heated at 120°C for 7 hrs, until a hot yellow viscous solution is obtained.
Several precipitations in 5 litres of acetone are performed to remove the DMSO.
The precipitate is redissolved in heated water for 72 hours then the solution is freeze-dried to obtain a water-soluble powder.
5: Preparation of formula A
Formula A is prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
Table 1
The “base coat” and “top coat” compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 1 using a Speed Mixer (mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.
Example 6: Two-step hair dyeing application of formula A
Formula A (“base coat” and “top coat”) is applied according to the two-step hair dyeing application protocol described previously. The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:
Table 2: Colorimetric measurements
It is seen that the application of composition A according to the process of the invention allows very good colour persistence to be obtained after 5 shampoo washes.
Example 7: Preparation of the compositions B to G
The compositions B to G are prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
Table 3
The compositions B to G are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 3 using a Speed Mixer (mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.
Example 8: Styling application of compositions B to G - Evaluation of the curl
The compositions B to G are applied according to the styling protocol without crosslinker described previously.
The results of the evaluations of the curl are summarized in the table below:
Table 4
It appears that the application of composition D according to the process of the invention allows a significant improvement in the persistence of the locks with respect to water, compared to the application of the compositions B, C, E, F and G.
The formulas H and I are prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
Table 5
The “base coat” and “top coat” compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 5 using a Speed Mixer (mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.
Example 10: Styling application of compositions H and I - Evaluation of the curl
The formulas H and I are applied according to the styling protocol with crosslinking agent described previously.
Table 6
It appears that the lock treated with the formulas I, according to the process of the invention, significantly improves the form of the curls, which appear more clearly defined and closer together, unlike the lock treated with the comparative formulas H. In addition, even after having been placed in a water bath, the lock treated with the formulas I, according to the process of the invention, exhibits curl maintenance that is considerably superior to the lock treated with the comparative formulas H.
Example 11: Preparation of formulas J to O
The formulas J to O are prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
Table 7
The “base coat” and “top coat” compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 7 using a Speed Mixer (mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature. Example 12: Styling application of formulas J to O - Evaluation of the curl
The formulas J to O are applied according to the styling protocol without crosslinker described previously.
Table 8
It appears that the application of compositions K, L and M according to the process of the invention allows a significant improvement in the persistence of the locks with respect to water, compared to the application of the compositions J, N and O.
Example 13: Preparation of the formulas P and O - with crosslinking agent
The formulas P and Q are prepared using the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
Table 9
The “base coat” and “top coat” compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 9 using a Speed Mixer (mixing equipment which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.
Example 14: Styling application of formulas P and O - Evaluation of the curl
The formulas P, Q and R are applied according to the styling protocol with crosslinking agent described previously.
The results of the evaluations of the curl are summarized in the table below:
Table 10
It appears that the locks treated with the formulas P and Q, according to the process of the invention, have a nice form of the curls, which appear clearly defined and close together.
In addition, even after having been placed in a water bath, the locks treated with the formulas P and Q, according to the process of the invention, exhibit good curl maintenance.
Claims
1. Process for treating, notably cosmetically treating, keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres, in one or more successive steps, of at least: i) one or more (co)polymers possessing at least one unit of formula (I), and also the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, and/or solvates thereof, such as hydrates, or a composition containing same:
in which formula (I):
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom,
- Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C alkyl group, preferably Rb and Rc represent a hydrogen atom,
- Rd represents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rd represents a methyl group,
(ID in which formula (II):
- q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, and
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; and optionally at least one unit of formula (III):
in which formula (III):
- 1 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2;
- R represents a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or nonaromatic, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably R represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, in particular methyl; and
- Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; ii) water; and iii) optionally one or more crosslinking agents.
2. Treatment process according to the preceding claim, in which the (co)polymer(s) are copolymers, and preferably comprise at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), or at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (III).
3. Treatment process according to either one of the preceding claims, in which the (co)polymer(s) comprise at least one unit of formula (I), at least one unit of formula (II) and at least one unit of formula (III).
4. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (co)polymer(s) comprise:
- from 1 mol% to 30 mol% of units of formula (I),
- from 49 mol% to 99 mol% of units of formula (II),
- from 0 mol% to 26 mol% of units of formula (III).
5. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (co)polymer(s) are present in a composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
6. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the application to said keratin fibres, preferably the hair, of at least iii) a crosslinking agent.
7. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of at least iii) a crosslinking agent chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl, (poly)acrylate, metal alkoxide and metal (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylate compounds and/or rare-earth metal derivatives and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol and (poly)acrylate compounds, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially chosen from (poly)amine and (poly)thiol compounds, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially chosen from (poly)amine compounds.
8. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of at least iii) a crosslinking agent chosen from:
A) (poly)amine compounds chosen from: ia) chitosans such as poly(D-glucosamine), ib) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, more particularly bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly (dimethoxy siloxane) (PDMS-diNth) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, more particularly bis-cetearyl amodimethicone ;
B) (poly)thiol compounds chosen from: iia) polydialkylsiloxanes bearing thiol functions, and iib) alkoxysilanes bearing thiol functions, and in particular chosen from iia) polydialkylsiloxanes bearing thiol functions, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain, in particular mercaptopropyl, and more particularly chosen from the compounds of formula (XIII): Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKi-SH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XIII) in which formula (XIII):
- Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci- C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferentially methyl,
- Rd represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group substituted with a (Ci-C4)alkylamino, amino or thiol group, and preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferentially methyl, and preferably Ra, Rb and Rd are identical and represent a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, more preferentially methyl,
- ALKi represents a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, saturated or unsaturated divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O or S, or combinations thereof, in particular -O-, -O-C(O)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably, ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene and more preferentially (C1-C4) alkylene group, even more preferentially propylene,
- n and m, which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and in particular the values of m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of said poly organo siloxane is between 1000 and 55 000 g.mol’1; and
C) the (poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV): L[-Y-C(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV) in which formula (XIV):
- q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is between 2 and 10 inclusive and preferably between 2 and 5,
- L denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, multivalent (at least divalent) group, in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and/or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and/or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and/or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms; L being optionally interrupted and/or terminated with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and combinations thereof, in particular -O-, -O-C(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, in particular methyl; and/or L being optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb and -(X’)a-C(X)-(X”)b-Ra; withX, X’ andX”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group N(Rb); a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b being 1; Ra and Rb, which may be identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group or an aryl(Ci-C4) alkyl group, in particular benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom, and Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a (Ci-Ce)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group,
- Re represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; preferably, Re represents a hydrogen atom, and
- Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom, preferably Y is an oxygen atom and Re is a hydrogen atom, preferably L represents a di- or bivalent, preferably trivalent, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and more preferentially, the compounds of formula (XIV) are trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
9. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which iv) one or more cosmetic active agent(s) are also applied to the keratin fibres, preferably the hair, the cosmetic active agent(s) iv) preferably being chosen from: a) dyestuffs, in particular chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) active agents for caring for keratin fibres, c) UV-screening agents, and d) mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the cosmetic agent(s) iv) are chosen from a) dyestuffs, preferably chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the pigment(s) are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, in particular Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more particularly D&C Red 7, an alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferentially from red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, more particularly D&C Red 7.
10. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which use is also made of v) one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile oils; more preferentially the volatile oil(s) are chosen from:
- hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), preferably C13-C16 isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for
example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), linear alkanes, in particular C11-C16 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, in particular n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), the undecanetridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof and also mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13), and volatile C5-C12 cyclic, nonaromatic alkanes;
- short-chain esters containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;
- carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R’ I-0-C(0)-0-R’2 in which R’i and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously chosen more preferentially from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;
- ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which Ri and R2, independently of each other, denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group;
- silicone oils, in particular comprising from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, and optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the volatile oil(s) v) are chosen from Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, preferably isododecane.
11. Process for treating, notably cosmetically treating, keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of at least:
- a composition, termed “Cl”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9; preferably, composition “Cl” does not comprise iii) a crosslinking agent; or a composition, termed “C’ l”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer
according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, ii) water, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9; preferably, composition “C’ l” does not comprise iii) a crosslinking agent;
- a composition, termed “C2”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to either one of Claims 7 and 8, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9; preferably, composition “C2” does not comprise iv) a cosmetic active agent;
- a composition, termed “C3”, comprising i) at least one (co)polymer according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to either one of Claims 7 and 8, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9;
- a composition, termed “C4”, comprising iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to either one of Claims 7 and 8, optionally ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9; preferably, composition “C4” does not comprise i) at least one (co)polymer according to any one of Claims 1 to 5; and/or
- a composition, termed “C5”, comprising iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9, and optionally ii) water; preferably, composition “C5” does not comprise i) at least one (co)polymer according to any one of Claims 1 to 5 and does not comprise iii) at least one crosslinking agent; it being understood that the process uses, together or separately, i) at least one (co)polymer according to any one of Claims 1 to 5 and ii) water, and optionally iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to either one of Claims 7 and 8, and that the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” and “C5” may comprise one or more fatty substances v), in particular according to Claim 10.
12. Treatment process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a single step of applying composition “Cl” or composition “C’ 1” or composition “C2” or composition “C3” to said keratin fibres.
13. Treatment process according to Claim 11, characterized in that it comprises two successive steps in which two different compositions, preferably composition “Cl” and then composition “C4”, are applied to said keratin fibres.
14. Process for cosmetically treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to Claim 11, comprising the successive application to said keratin fibres of at least:
- a composition termed “Cl” or “C’ 1” or “C2”;
- a composition termed “C4”; then
- a composition termed “C5”; at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C’ l”, “C2”, “C4” and/or “C5” containing at least one dyestuff, in particular according to Claim 9, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferentially the composition “Cl”, “C’ l” or “C2” comprises at least one pigment.
15. Composition “C’3” comprising i) at least one (co)polymer as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 5, ii) water, iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to either one of Claims 7 and 8, and iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9, other than rhodamine B; preferably, composition “C’3” comprises iv) at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non- fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, other than rhodamine B, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially pigments.
16. Cosmetic use of the composition “C’3” according to the preceding claim, for treating keratin fibres, in particular for caring for, styling and/or colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
17. Multi-compartment kit or device, notably cosmetic kit or device, comprising:
- at least one compartment containing at least i) at least one (co)polymer according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9, in particular comprising composition “Cl” or “C’ l” according to Claim 11 ;
- at least one compartment different from the one which contains i) and containing iii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to either one of Claims 7 and 8, optionally ii) water, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9, in particular comprising composition “C4” according to Claim 11; and
- optionally, at least one compartment different from those containing i) and iii), and containing iv) at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular according to Claim 9, which
may be identical to or different from that/those optionally contained in the compartments comprising i) and iii).
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FRFR2214550 | 2022-12-27 | ||
| FR2214550A FR3144001A1 (en) | 2022-12-27 | 2022-12-27 | Process for treating keratin fibers using at least one (co)polymer of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) with acetoacetate functions |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2024141525A1 true WO2024141525A1 (en) | 2024-07-04 |
Family
ID=85936905
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2023/087793 Ceased WO2024141525A1 (en) | 2022-12-27 | 2023-12-26 | Process for treating keratin fibres using at least one (co)polymer of polyvinyl alcohol (pva) bearing acetoacetate functions |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR3144001A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2024141525A1 (en) |
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