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WO2024000048A1 - Procédé d'évaluation du dommage protéique dans des mèches de cheveux et utilisation correspondante - Google Patents

Procédé d'évaluation du dommage protéique dans des mèches de cheveux et utilisation correspondante Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024000048A1
WO2024000048A1 PCT/BR2023/050203 BR2023050203W WO2024000048A1 WO 2024000048 A1 WO2024000048 A1 WO 2024000048A1 BR 2023050203 W BR2023050203 W BR 2023050203W WO 2024000048 A1 WO2024000048 A1 WO 2024000048A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
damage
hair
protein
proteins
color
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/BR2023/050203
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English (en)
Portuguese (pt)
Inventor
Ariana ESTEVÃO LIMA DIAS
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Aofio Hair Performance Sa
Original Assignee
Aofio Hair Performance Sa
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Aofio Hair Performance Sa filed Critical Aofio Hair Performance Sa
Publication of WO2024000048A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024000048A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C01—INORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C01D—COMPOUNDS OF ALKALI METALS, i.e. LITHIUM, SODIUM, POTASSIUM, RUBIDIUM, CAESIUM, OR FRANCIUM
    • C01D13/00—Compounds of sodium or potassium not provided for elsewhere
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C01—INORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C01G—COMPOUNDS CONTAINING METALS NOT COVERED BY SUBCLASSES C01D OR C01F
    • C01G3/00—Compounds of copper
    • C01G3/10—Sulfates
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01J—MEASUREMENT OF INTENSITY, VELOCITY, SPECTRAL CONTENT, POLARISATION, PHASE OR PULSE CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRARED, VISIBLE OR ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT; COLORIMETRY; RADIATION PYROMETRY
    • G01J3/00—Spectrometry; Spectrophotometry; Monochromators; Measuring colours
    • G01J3/02—Details
    • G01J3/10—Arrangements of light sources specially adapted for spectrometry or colorimetry
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01J—MEASUREMENT OF INTENSITY, VELOCITY, SPECTRAL CONTENT, POLARISATION, PHASE OR PULSE CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRARED, VISIBLE OR ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT; COLORIMETRY; RADIATION PYROMETRY
    • G01J3/00—Spectrometry; Spectrophotometry; Monochromators; Measuring colours
    • G01J3/02—Details
    • G01J3/10—Arrangements of light sources specially adapted for spectrometry or colorimetry
    • G01J3/108—Arrangements of light sources specially adapted for spectrometry or colorimetry for measurement in the infrared range
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01J—MEASUREMENT OF INTENSITY, VELOCITY, SPECTRAL CONTENT, POLARISATION, PHASE OR PULSE CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRARED, VISIBLE OR ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT; COLORIMETRY; RADIATION PYROMETRY
    • G01J3/00—Spectrometry; Spectrophotometry; Monochromators; Measuring colours
    • G01J3/28—Investigating the spectrum
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01J—MEASUREMENT OF INTENSITY, VELOCITY, SPECTRAL CONTENT, POLARISATION, PHASE OR PULSE CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRARED, VISIBLE OR ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT; COLORIMETRY; RADIATION PYROMETRY
    • G01J3/00—Spectrometry; Spectrophotometry; Monochromators; Measuring colours
    • G01J3/46—Measurement of colour; Colour measuring devices, e.g. colorimeters
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N1/00—Sampling; Preparing specimens for investigation
    • G01N1/02—Devices for withdrawing samples
    • G01N1/04—Devices for withdrawing samples in the solid state, e.g. by cutting
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/17—Systems in which incident light is modified in accordance with the properties of the material investigated
    • G01N21/25—Colour; Spectral properties, i.e. comparison of effect of material on the light at two or more different wavelengths or wavelength bands
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/75—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/75—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated
    • G01N21/77—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated by observing the effect on a chemical indicator
    • G01N21/78—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated by observing the effect on a chemical indicator producing a change of colour
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01J—MEASUREMENT OF INTENSITY, VELOCITY, SPECTRAL CONTENT, POLARISATION, PHASE OR PULSE CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRARED, VISIBLE OR ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT; COLORIMETRY; RADIATION PYROMETRY
    • G01J3/00—Spectrometry; Spectrophotometry; Monochromators; Measuring colours
    • G01J2003/003—Comparing spectra of two light sources
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01J—MEASUREMENT OF INTENSITY, VELOCITY, SPECTRAL CONTENT, POLARISATION, PHASE OR PULSE CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRARED, VISIBLE OR ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT; COLORIMETRY; RADIATION PYROMETRY
    • G01J3/00—Spectrometry; Spectrophotometry; Monochromators; Measuring colours
    • G01J3/02—Details
    • G01J3/0267—Sample holders for colorimetry
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01J—MEASUREMENT OF INTENSITY, VELOCITY, SPECTRAL CONTENT, POLARISATION, PHASE OR PULSE CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRARED, VISIBLE OR ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT; COLORIMETRY; RADIATION PYROMETRY
    • G01J3/00—Spectrometry; Spectrophotometry; Monochromators; Measuring colours
    • G01J3/46—Measurement of colour; Colour measuring devices, e.g. colorimeters
    • G01J3/52—Measurement of colour; Colour measuring devices, e.g. colorimeters using colour charts
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N1/00—Sampling; Preparing specimens for investigation
    • G01N2001/002—Devices for supplying or distributing samples to an analysing apparatus
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/75—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated
    • G01N21/77—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated by observing the effect on a chemical indicator
    • G01N21/7703—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated by observing the effect on a chemical indicator using reagent-clad optical fibres or optical waveguides
    • G01N2021/7706—Reagent provision
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/75—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated
    • G01N21/77—Systems in which material is subjected to a chemical reaction, the progress or the result of the reaction being investigated by observing the effect on a chemical indicator
    • G01N2021/7769—Measurement method of reaction-produced change in sensor
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/17—Systems in which incident light is modified in accordance with the properties of the material investigated
    • G01N21/25—Colour; Spectral properties, i.e. comparison of effect of material on the light at two or more different wavelengths or wavelength bands
    • G01N21/251—Colorimeters; Construction thereof

Definitions

  • the present patent application for the privilege of invention pertains to methods for hair treatment, and refers more specifically to a method, notably, that colorimetrically evaluates protein damage.
  • Hair products have the function of hydrating and treating the hair, but also of cleaning. For all functions to be carried out, some ingredients are frequently used in formulas. Mainly in shampoos and conditioners we find surfactants, which interfere with other protein loss assessment methods on the market, generating false positive results. Therefore, this is an advantage of the method, in addition to having good reproducibility and low cost. In addition to practical and quick execution, which allows for use on a scale.
  • Hair has a distinct anatomical structure. Hair fibers are divided into three main morphological constituents, also components of the hair follicle: cuticle, cortex and medulla. Hair fibers contain overlapping flat, scale-like structures that surround the central core of the fiber. It is a thick, chemically resistant protective layer, called cuticle, with the function of protecting the cortex from external environmental damage and the action of chemical agents. treatments. It is about 6 to 10 overlapping layers thick and consists of keratin protein, structural lipids and high-sulfur keratin-associated proteins. Each layer has 3 different structures, as described below:
  • Epicuticle composed of a proteolipid membrane, hydrophobic and containing 12% cystine. Exocuticle: contains 15% cystine and constitutes the largest area of the cuticle, 55%.
  • Endocut ⁇ cuia has a low amount of cystine ( ⁇ 3%), being the innermost layer and with the capacity to absorb water.
  • NH2 are measured (Itzahki & Gill, 1964).
  • the method described by Itzahki & Gill (1964) uses only copper sulfate and sodium hydroxide in the formation of the complex. It has a detection limit of 1x10-3 mg.L-1 and absorbance reading at 310 nm (Wilson & Walker, 1995). Several substances present in sanitary sewage absorb in the 310 nm region, which can cause interference in readings by overestimating protein concentrations.
  • the complex formed in the Biuret method can also be read at 540 nm, but with less sensitivity.
  • Stickland (1951) proposed a method to determine total proteins in bacterial cells with the same reagents as that proposed by Gornall et al (1949), but with subsequent centrifugation to eliminate material cellular and copper hydroxide, both insoluble.
  • the Lowry method has a detection limit of 0.7 mg.L-1 and absorbance readings at a wavelength of 750 nm (Lowry et al, 1951).
  • Coomassie blue dye BG-250 binds to basic or aromatic functional groups of proteins. For this to occur, the protein must have a macromolecular structure, that is, at least 8-9 peptide bonds. The connection takes place in two minutes and lasts approximately two hours (Bradford, 1976). According to Zaia et al (1998), at the reaction pH, the interaction between the high molecular weight protein and the dye causes the dye's equilibrium to shift to the anionic form, which absorbs strongly at 595 nm.
  • document BR 11 2019 019900 discloses a system for measuring friction of a wet bundle of hair fibers, characterized by the fact that it comprises: i) a friction probe, which has a contact surface, the said probe equipped with a weight in the range of 10 to 500 g; ii) a means for securing the bundle of hair; and iii) a water bath; wherein the friction probe is connected to a texture analyzer; and wherein the fixing means and the friction probe are positioned in the water bath below the fill line; and where the probe contact surface friction comprises surfactant; and a method of measuring wet hair friction using the system.
  • North American document US8752441 refers to a method for evaluating keratin fiber damage using color measurements and area measurements.
  • the present invention relates to a method for comparing the damage of different keratin fibers using the method for evaluating the damage.
  • the present invention relates to a method for assessing keratin fiber damage comprising the steps of: providing at least one sample of keratin fiber(s); measuring a color from a selected portion of the sample and providing a color value; measuring an area of the selected portion of the sample and providing an area value; providing a damage value by dividing the color value by the area value.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for evaluating and comparing damage of different keratin fibers comprising the steps of: providing at least two different samples of keratin fiber(s); measuring a color from a selected portion of each sample and providing a color value from each sample; measuring an area of the selected portion of each sample and providing an area value of each sample; provide a damage value for each sample by dividing the color value by the area value; comparing the damage value of the samples.
  • Said methods are useful for quantitatively and/or qualitatively evaluating the degree of damage of keratin fibers and also for comparing the damage of fibers of different origins, different portions of fibers and/or fibers treated with different cosmetic, chemical and/or chemical treatments. mechanics.
  • the method comprises providing at least one sample of keratin fiber(s); measuring a color from a selected portion of the sample and providing a color value; measure an area of the selected portion of the sample and provide an area value; provide a damage value by dividing the color value by the area value; wherein the method further comprises the step of taking an image of the selected portion of the sample and wherein color measurement and area measurement are made based on the image; wherein the color value is the integrated area of pixels that have a brightness threshold less than (grayscale) in the selected portion and wherein the area value is calculated by integrating all pixel areas that have a grayscale greater than the grayscale standard.
  • Korean document KR100749692 discloses a method for qualitatively and quantitatively assessing hair damage using non-invasive means. More specifically, it is an object of the present invention to provide a method for evaluating the degree of damage to the hair of the evaluation target based on the correlation between the results of multivariate analysis of the near-infrared absorption spectrum of the hair and the degree of hair damage.
  • the damage to the hair preferably includes qualitative damage, or more preferably includes one of the damage caused by permanent treatment or oxidation treatment represented by a lightening treatment or a hair fading treatment.
  • North American Document US20080241854 relates to kits and methods for analyzing hair, particularly for determining the amount of damage to the hair, including placing the hair in a solution containing at least one metal ion so that an amount of the ion metal ion is attached to the hair, removing the hair from the solution, determine the amount of metal ion attached to the hair and determine the amount of damage to the hair based on the amount of metal ion attached to the hair.
  • the method of the present invention is a method for evaluating at least one degree of hair damage caused by permanent treatment and the degree of hair damage caused by oxidation treatment.
  • the method of the present invention is a method of evaluating the degree of damage to hair from the near-infrared absorption spectrum of the hair.
  • the hair damage to be assessed includes at least one of the hair damage caused by the permanent treatment described above and the hair damage caused by the oxidation treatment.
  • the objective of the present invention is to present a method in which the degradation of proteins into amino acids and peptides, measurements of strength, brightness and color were used to evaluate protein decomposition in hair fibers as a whole subjected to chemical procedures. It was possible to correlate the levels of protein damage to the other tests using the method, considering that the samples that showed greater protein loss, or severe damage, with an intense purple color, were the same ones that presented lower brightness and tensile strength and greater strength. when combing. Thus, as the samples that showed mild damage, they had small changes when compared to the control samples. Exhaustive research on interferences was carried out compared to existing methods on the market. Therefore, the method delivers ideal and current conditions, since the levels of damage presented are the most frequent found in users of hair treatments.
  • the RIA reagent containing 1% solution was used. Na2; 2% Na2CO3H2O; 0.16% Na2 tartrate; 0.4% NaOH and 0.95% NaHCO3 and R2B reagent with 4% CuSO4.5H2O solution are mixed in the ratio up to 420:1.55 (RIA reagent: R2B). This mixture reacts with the proteins present in the sample (keratin, peptides and amino acids) and changes the color of the reagent. Based on the color obtained, distinguish the damage to this hair shaft from minor to major.
  • Fig. 1 illustrates an image of the damage classification, correlating the color; From the color obtained, distinguish the damage of this hair shaft from minor to major damage. [026] Ex: Minimal damage, light damage, intermediate damage, moderate damage, serious damage, severe damage and intense damage.
  • the present invention patent refers to the "METHOD FOR EVALUATING PROTEIN DAMAGE IN HAIR LOCKS AND ITS RESPECTIVE USE", more precisely it conceives a method carried out through colorimetric detection and quantification of total protein in a solution.
  • This method is based on the reduction of Cu+2 to Cu+1, resulting in the formation of a purple colored complex with a maximum absorbance of 200nm to 800nm.
  • the production of Cu+1 varies depending on the protein concentration and incubation time.
  • each strand of hair is cut into fragments of ⁇ 0.5 to 5 cm and dispersed in 1 to 80 ml of sodium chloride and 1 to 80 ml of distilled water, using a 5 to 100 ml container. Afterwards, it is subjected to an ultrasound bath for 2 to 180 minutes at 30 to 70 °C.

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  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Spectroscopy & Molecular Physics (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pathology (AREA)
  • Analytical Chemistry (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Immunology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Plasma & Fusion (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Investigating Or Analysing Biological Materials (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention relève du domaine des procédés pour traitement capillaire et concerne un procédé colorimétrique pour l'évaluation du dommage protéique ; la solution a établi de manière comparative la corrélation entre le dommage protéique provoqué par différents traitements chimiques et d'autres caractéristiques de la fibre capillaire, telles que la couleur, l'éclat, la coiffabilité et la résistance de la fibre, et a permis d'obtenir des résultats consolidés, fournissant une vraie réponse en ce qui concerne l'état de la tige capillaire, de manière à « traduire » la perte protéique sur une échelle de couleur, le vert représentant le dommage le plus léger, les tons gris et violet clair indiquant des dommages modérés et les tons mauve et mauve foncé correspondant aux dommages capillaires intenses ; l'invention trouve une utilisation auprès de professionnels spécialisés tels que trichologues, médecins, esthéticiens et coiffeurs ; le procédé se caractérise avantageusement par une moindre interaction avec les ingrédients qui sont souvent présents dans les produits cosmétiques.
PCT/BR2023/050203 2022-06-29 2023-06-20 Procédé d'évaluation du dommage protéique dans des mèches de cheveux et utilisation correspondante Ceased WO2024000048A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
BR102022013090-6A BR102022013090A2 (pt) 2022-06-29 2022-06-29 Método de avaliação de dano proteico em mechas de cabelo e seu respectivo uso
BR1020220130906 2022-06-29

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2024000048A1 true WO2024000048A1 (fr) 2024-01-04

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PCT/BR2023/050203 Ceased WO2024000048A1 (fr) 2022-06-29 2023-06-20 Procédé d'évaluation du dommage protéique dans des mèches de cheveux et utilisation correspondante

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BR (1) BR102022013090A2 (fr)
WO (1) WO2024000048A1 (fr)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2001356125A (ja) * 2000-06-15 2001-12-26 Kanebo Ltd 毛髪損傷評価方法
EP1671622A1 (fr) * 2004-12-14 2006-06-21 L'oreal Dosage des protéines du cheveu
WO2008035336A1 (fr) * 2006-09-19 2008-03-27 Seethrough Ltd. Dispositif et procédé d'inspection d'un échantillon de cheveu
WO2019014674A1 (fr) * 2017-07-14 2019-01-17 Pierce Biotechnology, Inc. Méthodes et compositions pour la quantification colorimétrique et par fluorescence de protéines

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2001356125A (ja) * 2000-06-15 2001-12-26 Kanebo Ltd 毛髪損傷評価方法
EP1671622A1 (fr) * 2004-12-14 2006-06-21 L'oreal Dosage des protéines du cheveu
WO2008035336A1 (fr) * 2006-09-19 2008-03-27 Seethrough Ltd. Dispositif et procédé d'inspection d'un échantillon de cheveu
WO2019014674A1 (fr) * 2017-07-14 2019-01-17 Pierce Biotechnology, Inc. Méthodes et compositions pour la quantification colorimétrique et par fluorescence de protéines

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