WO2023070514A1

WO2023070514A1 - Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair

Info

Publication number: WO2023070514A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/127375
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yingzi Wang; Yihua Jiang; Wi Soon CHIA
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-10-29
Filing date: 2021-10-29
Publication date: 2023-05-04
Anticipated expiration: 2024-04-29
Also published as: FR3128640A1; CN118159246A

Abstract

It relates to a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising: a) at least one anionic surfactant; b) at least one amphoteric surfactant; c) at least one cationic surfactant having a C16-C22 carbon chain; and d) at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol. It also relates to a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING THE HAIR

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair. The present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair.

BACKGROUND ART

The hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent and/or straightening.

Cleansing compositions typically contain anionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate have detergent properties and are highly effective at removing dirt and oil.

For example, US20210267867A1 discloses hair cleansing composition comprising: (a) about 8 to about 20 wt. %of a sulfate based anionic surfactant; (b) about 1 to about 4 wt. %of an amphoteric surfactant; (c) about 4 to about 10 wt. %of a plurality of nonionic surfactants, the plurality ofnonionic surfactants comprising: (i) about 1 to about 1.5 wt. %of a fatty alcohol, (ii) about 1.5 to about 3 wt. %of a glucamide, and (iii) about 1.5 to about 5.5 wt. %of an alkanolamide that is not the glucamide, (d) about 0.5 wt. %or more of a non-silicone oil; and (e) water, wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the hair cleansing composition.

WO2017083943A1 discloses a multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair, the hair cosmetic agent comprising: a) a first cosmetic composition comprising: i) a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant; ii) at least one amino silicone; iii) at least one cationic polymer; and iv) water; and b) a second cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one fatty alcohol; ii) at least one cationic surfactant; iii) at least one oily component; and iv) water.

Anionic surfactants raise the cuticle of the hair for deep cleansing, but raised, rough cuticles also lead to frizziness of the hair. In addition, consumers generally find that products containing anionic surfactants can be too drying and damaging on frequent use, and, as a result, choose mild cleansing compositions which have low levels of anionic surfactants.

However, there are drawbacks associated with mild cleansing compositions. On account of their low detergency, excess oils and styling products may not be effectively removed from the hair. This may make the hair flat and feel greasy, and even with repeated use, such products may not impart a clean feel to the hair.

Consumers are therefore still in search of optimized cleansing compositions that provide adequate hair cleansing properties and at the same time, provide good conditioning to the hair.

It was found that when a cationic surfactant is added into a shampoo comprising an anionic, flocculation can be generated, thus the whole system is unstable.

Therefore, there is still a need to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair, which is stable.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is thus to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair, which is stable.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising:

a) at least one anionic surfactant;

b) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

c) at least one cationic surfactant having a C16-C22 carbon chain; and

d) at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.

The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can provide a good cleansing and conditioning effect.

The composition according to the present invention remains stable at elevated temperatures (e.g. 45℃) , room temperature (25℃) , and reduced temperatures (e.g. 4℃) for at least two months.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .

As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

As used herein, “conditioning” means imparting to the hair at least one property chosen from compatibility, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, smoothness and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by comparing the hair treated with the composition to be tested in contrast with the hair treated with a commercial product.

As used herein, “stable” means that the composition is not layered.

According to the first aspect of the present invention, a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair:

a) at least one anionic surfactant;

b) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

c) at least one cationic surfactant having a C16-C22 carbon chain; and

d) at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol.

Anionic surfactants

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

It is understood in the present description that:

- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or-COO ^-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;

- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃H or -SO ₃ ^–) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and

- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or-COO ^-) .

They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1) :

R ₁- (OC ₂H ₄) _n-OCH ₂COOA (1)

in which:

- R ₁ represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl (C8-C9) phenyl radical, a radical R ₂CONH-CH2-CH2-with R ₂ denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,

preferably, R ₁ is a C8-C20 and preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,

- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1) , in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R ₁.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:

- R ₁ denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,

- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (1) in which R ₁ denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- acylglutamates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, especially of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;

- (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylates and especially (C12-C20) alkyl ether carboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylenated C6-C24alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃H or-SO ₃ ^–) .

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates,

The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃H or-OSO ₃ ^-) .

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;

Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- alkyl sulfates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20,

- alkyl ether sulfates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol salts and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

-C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

-C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;

- C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably C12-C20 alkyl ether carboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylenated C6-C24 alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal such as sodium or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in amount ranging from 8 wt. %to 16 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 12 wt. %to 14 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactants

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.

The amphoteric surfactants that may be used in the present invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of betaine, (C8-C20) alkylbetaines, (C8-C20) alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products of respective structures (A1) and(A2) below:

(A1) R _a-CON (Z) CH _2- (CH ₂) _m-N ⁺ (R _b) (R _c) (CH ₂COO ^-)

in which:

R _a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

R _b represents aβ-hydroxyethyl group,

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

(A2) R _a’ -CON (Z) CH _2- (CH ₂) _m’ -N (B) (B')

in which:

B represents -CH ₂CH ₂OX', with X' representing -CH ₂-COOH, CH ₂-COOZ’, -CH ₂CH ₂-COOH, -CH ₂CH ₂-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents - (CH ₂) _z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y'representing-COOH, -COOZ’, -CH ₂-CHOH-SO ₃H or-CH ₂-CHOH-SO ₃Z’ ,

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,

R _a' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

The compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are preferred.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) in which X’ represents an hydrogen atom, mention may be made of compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, under the names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

Other compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name

C2M Concentrate, the sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (A3) :

(A3) R _a” -NH-CH (Y” ) - (CH ₂) n-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂) n’ -N (R _d) (R _e)

in which:

- R _a” represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a” -C (O) OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- Y'’ represents the group–C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ” , -CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃H or the group-CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃-Z” , with Z” representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- R _d and R _e represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A3) , mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, such as the one sold by the company Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants is chosen from (C8-C20) alkylbetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamphoacetates and (C8-C20) alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof, and specially chosen from cocobetaine and cocoamidopropylbetaine.

Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, more preferably from 1.2 wt. %to 1.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic surfactants having a C16-C22 carbon chain

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant having a C16-C22 carbon chain.

They are advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amidoamines, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made in particular of:

- quaternary ammonium salts having formula (Ia) :

in which:

the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens;

X ^- is an anion that can be chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl sulfates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkylsulfonates and (C ₁-C ₄) alkylarylsulfonates.

The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C ₁-C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁-C ₃₀ alkoxy, (C ₂-C ₆) polyoxyalkylene, C ₁-C ₃₀ alkylamide, (C ₁₂-C ₂₂) alkyl (C ₂-C ₆) alkylamido, (C ₁₂-C ₂₂) alkyl acetate and C ₁-C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Mention may be made of tetraalkylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which at least one or two the alkyl groups comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, distearyldimonium, dicocodimonium, and cetyltrimethylammonium, chlorides.

Mention may also be made of hydroxyethyl oleyl dimonium chloride. Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) -ammonium halides, preferably chlorides, such as the product sold under the name

70 by the company VAN DYK.

- imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts having formula (IIa) :

in which:

R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₁₄ represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;

R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group;

X ^- is an anion, preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates;

at least one of R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ denote an alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms,

Preferably, R ₁₄ denotes a methyl group, and R ₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom.

As an example, mention can be made of Quaternium-87.

A product of this kind is sold for example under the name

W 75 by the company REWO.

- quaternary di-or triammonium salts having formula (IIIa) :

in which:

R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl group containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

R ₁₇ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group- (CH ₂) ₃-N ⁺ (R _16a) (R _17a) (R _18a) ; wherein R _16a, R _17a, R _18a, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms

R ₁₈, R ₁₉, R ₂₀ and R ₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

X ^- is an anion preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium 89) and FINQUAT CT (Quaternium 75) sold by the company FINETEX.

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions having the following formula (IVa) :

in which:

R ₂₂ is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R ₂₃ is chosen from the group R ₂₆-C (=O) -; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 groups R ₂₇; and a hydrogen atom;

R ₂₅ is chosen from the group R ₂₈-C (=O) -; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 groups R ₂₉; and a hydrogen atom;

R ₂₄, R ₂₆ and R ₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

at least one ofR ₂₄ and R ₂₃ contains 16-22 carbon atoms;

r,s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1;

r2+r1=2 r and t1+t2=2 t;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15,

X ^- is an anion;

with the proviso that,

at least one ofR ₂₃, R ₂₄, and R ₂₅ contains 16-22 carbon atoms;

when x is 0 then R ₂₃ denotes R ₂₇, and that when z is 0 then R ₂₅ denotes R ₂₉.

The alkyl groups R ₂₂ may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R ₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

When R ₂₃ is an R ₂₇ hydrocarbon group, it may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is an R ₂₉ hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄, R ₂₆ and R ₂₈, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkylaryl sulfonate, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function. The anion X ^- is more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts having formula (IVa) in which:

- R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1,

- z is equal to 0 or 1,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R ₂₃ is chosen from the group R ₂₆-C (=O) -; methyl groups, ethyl groups or hydrocarbon-based C14-C22 groups; and a hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₅ is chosen from the group R ₂₈-C (=O) -; and a hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₄, R ₂₆ and R ₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C16-C22 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C16-C22 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IVa) , examples that may be mentioned include salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 16 to 22 carbon atoms. In particular, mention can be made of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, bis- (isostearoyl/oleoyl isopropyl dimonium methosulfate) .

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names

by the company HENKEL,

by the company STEPAN,

by the company CECA or

WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company KAO under the name QUARTAMIN BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from the compounds of formula (Ia) and the compounds of formula (IVa) , preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the cationic surfactant is a behenyltrimethylammonium salt.

Advantageously, the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

C12-C22 fatty alcohols

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises a surfactant combination comprising at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol.

As examples of C12-C22 fatty alcohols, mention can be made of isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and myricyl alcohol.

The fatty alcohol may be chosen from those having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the C12-C22 fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.%to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.

The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of20-25℃) , for instance polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 75 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient that is usually used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.

The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional ingredients so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

For example, such additional ingredients include pH adjusting agents, thickeners, preserving agents, sequestrants and chelators, consistency regulators, antioxidants, fragrances, dyestuffs such as soluble dyes and pigments, optical brighteners, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents includes potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, boric acid, lactic acid, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ethanol amines, and mixtures thereof.

The pH adjusting agent is used in an amount so that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6, preferably from 3.5 to 5.8, more preferably from 4 to 5.6.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 12 wt. %to 14 wt. %of at least one anionic surfactants;

b) from 1.2 wt. %to 1.8 wt. %of at least one amphoteric surfactants;

c) from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %of at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium salts having formula (Ia) :

in which:

X ^- is an anion that could be chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates; and

d) from 0.5 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of at least one C16-C18 fatty alcohol.

Preparation and use

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d) , as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient (s) , as explained above.

The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention can have a gel-like texture.

According to the second aspect of the present invention, a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing with water after an optional period of exposure.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.

EXAMPLES

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2

Shampoos according to invention example s (IE. ) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-2 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each shampoo, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 2

Ingredients	IE. 1	IE. 2	IE. 3	CE. 1	CE. 2
Sodium laureth sulfate	13.8	13.8	13.8	13.8	13.8
Cocamidopropyl betaine	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5
Cetrimonium chloride	0.5	0.7	0.6	0.5	-
Isostearyl alcohol	1.2	0.75	1.5	-	1.2
Sodium benzoate	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
Salicylic acid	0.2	0.2	0.2	0.2	0.2
Water	QS100	QS100	QS100	QS100	QS100

Shampoos of invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 are compositions according to the present invention.

Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 1 comprises no C12-C22 fatty alcohol.

Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 2 comprises no cationic surfactant.

Preparation procedure:

Each shampoo was prepared as follows, taking shampoo of invention example 1 for illustration.

1) adding sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium benzoate into water with stirring to form a shampoo base at room temperature;

2) mixing Cetrimonium chloride and isostearyl alcohol by stirring to form a p-phase;

3) introducing the p-phase into the shampoo base, and then adding salicylic acid to adjust pH, then the shampoo was obtained.

Evaluation:

The stability of each shampoo obtained was evaluated by observing whether there is flocculation as follows.

A shampoo was remained at 4℃, room temperature (25℃) , or 45℃ for 2 months and observing with naked eyes to check whether there is flocculation in the shampoo. It will be evaluated as stable ifthere is no flocculation in the shampoo under all of4℃, room temperature (25℃) , and 45℃ for 2 months, otherwise, it will be evaluated as unstable.

The conditioning effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:

I) Treating the hair with the tested shampoo:

A bundle of damaged hair was selected. The hair was combed and wet under running water, the tested shampoo was applied uniformly on the damaged hair from root to tail, the shampoo was gently massaged into the hair with two fingers from root to tail (without knotting) to foam the shampoo. The shampoo was rinsed off under a tap water until all foam was washed off.

II) Evaluating detangling capacity and smoothness in the wet state:

The hair was combed from the root by using a wide-tooth comb, and then the detangling capacity of the shampoo was judged by using a fine-tooth comb according to the easiness of combing.

The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the haircare performance of the shampoo was judged according to the smoothness of the surface of the hair.

III) Evaluating smoothness and softness in the dry state:

The hair were either air dried naturally or blown in a 60℃ oven to a completely dry condition.

The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the hair care performance of the shampoo was judged according to the smoothness of the surface of the hair.

The hair was curled from the tail by using two fingers, and the haircare performance of the shampoo and the softness of the hair were judged on the hair surface according to whether the sample is easy to curl and the force generated in the curling process.

A non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as the benchmark in parallel with the tested shampoo in above conditioning effect evaluation.

The cleansing effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:

6 volunteers were recruited, one half of the hair of each volunteer was washed with the shampoo to be tested, and the other half of the hair of each volunteer was washed with a benchmark.

A non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as the benchmark in above cleansing effect evaluation.

The scores on cleansing effect of each tested shampoo were given by volunteers 24 hours after application and averaged.

The scores on conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each tested shampoo were given by volunteers and averaged, wherein the scores of cleansing effect were given 24 hours after application.

The scoring scale is [-2, 2] and the scoring standard for conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each tested shampoo is as follows.

-2: the tested shampoo is significantly inferior to the benchmark;

-1: the tested shampoo is slightly inferior to the benchmark;

0: the tested shampoo is similar to the benchmark;

1: the tested shampoo is slightly better than the benchmark; and

2: the tested shampoo is obviously superior to the benchmark.

The results on stability, conditioning effect and cleansing effect were summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

Properties	IE. 1	IE. 2	IE. 3	CE. 1	CE. 2
Wet detangling	+1	+0.5	+1	-0.25	-0.4
Wet smoothness	+1	+0.75	+0.5	-0.25	-0.25
Dry smoothness	+0.5	+0	+0.25	+0.1	-0.4
Dry softness	+0.5	+0	+0.5	+0.25	-0.25
Stablity	Stable	Stable	Stable	NA	NA
Long-lasting clean	+1	+1	+1	NA	NA

NA: not tested.

It can be seen that the composition according to the present invention is stable at elevated temperatures (e.g. 45℃) , room temperature (25℃) , and reduced temperatures (e.g. 4℃) for at least two months and can provide a long-lasting clean and good conditioning effect upon application.

Claims

A composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising:

a) at least one anionic surfactant;

b) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

c) at least one cationic surfactant having a C16-C22 carbon chain; and

d) at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;

- C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably C12-C20 alkyl ether carboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylenated C6-C24 alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal such as sodium or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the anionic surfactant is present in amount ranging from 8 wt. %to 16 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 12 wt. %to 14 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine, (C8-C20) alkylbetaines, (C8-C20) alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, more preferably from 1.2 wt. %to 1.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium salts having formula (Ia) :

in which:

the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as,in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens;

X ^- is an anion that could be chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl sulfates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkylsulfonates and (C ₁-C ₄) alkylarylsulfonates.
Composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the C12-C22 fatty alcohol is selected from dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and a mixture thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the C12-C22 fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the composition comprises from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 75 wt. %to 85 wt. %of an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 12 wt. %to 14 wt. %of at least one anionic surfactants;

b) from 1.2 wt. %to 1.8 wt. %of at least one amphoteric surfactants;

c) from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8wt. %of at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium salts having formula (Ia) :

in which:

the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens;

X ^- is an anion that could be chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl sulfates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkylsulfonates and (C ₁-C ₄) alkylarylsulfonates; and

d) from 0.5 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of at least one C16-C18 fatty alcohol.
A process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1-12 onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.