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WO2022135682A1 - Composition cosmétique eau-dans-huile - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique eau-dans-huile Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022135682A1
WO2022135682A1 PCT/EP2020/087537 EP2020087537W WO2022135682A1 WO 2022135682 A1 WO2022135682 A1 WO 2022135682A1 EP 2020087537 W EP2020087537 W EP 2020087537W WO 2022135682 A1 WO2022135682 A1 WO 2022135682A1
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Prior art keywords
mass
oil
hydrophobic
cosmetic composition
treated
Prior art date
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2020/087537
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English (en)
Inventor
Yurie ASAMI
Koichi Hata
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LVMH Recherche GIE
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LVMH Recherche GIE
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Priority to PCT/EP2020/087537 priority Critical patent/WO2022135682A1/fr
Publication of WO2022135682A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022135682A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a water-in-oil cosmetic composition.
  • Liquid foundations are one the most attractive cosmetic items that have been appreciated for a long time. In terms of functions, consumers desire a covering effect in order to diminish imperfection on skin. The makeup layer must also exhibit a lasting effect in order to keep its beautiful finish all day long. High stability is also needed for foundations (see JP2004-26833 A, for example).
  • Foundations comprising large amounts of pigments and light-diffusing powders have been developed with the aim of increasing their coverage effect.
  • conventional foundations with a high coverage effect tend to form thick powdery coated films, producing a heavy, dry texture. It is desirable for foundations to have a high coverage effect while also exhibiting a smooth texture and film thinness similar to skin care cosmetics.
  • Polyhydric alcohols and emollient oils generally impart a nourishing texture to cosmetic compositions.
  • such components also increase the plasticization effect with film formers and give rise to a sticky texture.
  • a water-in-oil cosmetic composition is desired that has a high coverage effect and lasting effect, while also having a smooth texture similar to a skin care cosmetic, being able to form a thin-film, and exhibiting high stability.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a silicone surfactant with an HLB of 2 to 8, a polyhydric alcohol, a volatile oil, a non-volatile oil, a hydrophobic-treated iron oxide, a hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide, a silicone film former, an organically-modified mineral clay, and an organic powder and/or inorganic powder, wherein the volatile oil consists of a hydrocarbon oil, a straight-chain silicone oil, a branched silicone oil or a combination thereof, the content mass ratio of the volatile oil and non-volatile oil is from 1:1 to 5:1, the particle sizes of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide are less than 1 pm, the particle sizes of the organic powder and/or inorganic powder are greater than 1 pm, and the hydrophobic -treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide are treated with one or more selected from the group consisting of silicones, acylated amino acids, amino acids, lecithins,
  • the content mass ratio of the total of the volatile oil and non-volatile oil with respect to the silicone film former is from 10:1 to 200:1.
  • the total content of the organic powder and inorganic powder in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.3 to 6 mass%.
  • the silicone film former content in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.1 to 3 mass%.
  • the silicone film former content in the cosmetic composition may also be 0.1 mass% or greater and less than 2 mass%.
  • the organic powder and inorganic powder in the cosmetic composition preferably have a light diffusing property.
  • the polyhydric alcohol in the cosmetic composition preferably comprises glycerin.
  • the total content of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic- treated titanium oxide in the cosmetic composition may be 4 mass% or greater.
  • the total content of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic- treated titanium oxide in the cosmetic composition is preferably 10 mass% or greater.
  • the volatile oil in the cosmetic composition preferably comprises isohexadecane.
  • the cosmetic composition may further comprise niacinamide.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises a silicone surfactant with an HLB of 2 to 8, a polyhydric alcohol, a volatile oil, a nonvolatile oil, a hydrophobic-treated iron oxide, a hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide, a silicone film former, an organically-modified mineral clay, and an organic powder and/or inorganic powder, wherein the volatile oil consists of a hydrocarbon oil, a straight-chain silicone oil, a branched silicone oil or a combination thereof, the content mass ratio of the volatile oil and non-volatile oil is from 1:1 to 5:1, the particle sizes of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide are less than 1 pm, the particle sizes of the organic powder and/or inorganic powder are greater than 1 pm, and the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide are treated with one or more selected from the group consisting of silicones, acylated amino acids, amino acids, lecithins, fluorine compounds,
  • the cosmetic composition of this embodiment has the structural combination described above, it has an excellent coverage effect, lasting effect and stability while also being able to form a smooth thin-film having a nourishing feel similar to skin care cosmetics.
  • the coated film that is formed is thin but has adequate stiffness, and exhibits an excellent coverage effect and lasting effect.
  • the silicone surfactant with an HLB of 2 to 8 to be used for this embodiment has a chemical structure with a hydrophilic group introduced into a polysiloxane backbone.
  • the HLB value of the silicone surfactant varies depending on the type of hydrophilic group.
  • hydrophilic groups include polyether groups such as polyethylene glycol (hereunder also referred to as "PEG”) and polypropylene glycol (hereunder also referred to as "PPG”) and polyglycerol groups.
  • the silicone surfactant may also be modified with an alkyl group (polyether/alkyl co-modification, polyglycerol/alkyl comodification).
  • the HLB value of the silicone surfactant may be 2 to 8, 2 to 7, 3 to 7, 3 to 6 or 3 to 5.
  • the silicone chain of a silicone surfactant may be straight-chain or branched. Two or more silicone chains may also be crosslinked, via the hydrophilic group.
  • the number of ethylene oxide units in a polyethylene glycol is not particularly restricted and may be 1 or more, 2 or more, 3 or more, 4 or more, 5 or more or 6 or more. The number of ethylene oxide units may also be up to 11, up to 10 or up to 9.
  • the silicone surfactant may be a polyether-modified silicone such as a silicone straight-chain polyether-modified silicone or silicone branched polyether- modified silicone.
  • a silicone branched polyether-modified silicone is PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
  • An example of an alkyl-modified silicone straight-chain polyether-modified silicone is cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.
  • the silicone surfactant content may be 1 mass% or greater, 3 mass% or greater, 4 mass% or greater or 5 mass% or greater, and 10 mass% or lower, 8 mass% or lower or 6 mass% or lower, with respect to the total content of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment comprises hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide as pigments.
  • the particle sizes of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide are less than 1 pm.
  • the iron oxide may be black iron oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, or the combination thereof. Since the cosmetic composition of the embodiment comprises a hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide it is particularly advantageous in terms of high stability and smooth texture.
  • the iron oxide and titanium oxide of the hydrophobic- treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide are treated with one or more hydrophobic treatment agent selected from the group consisting of silicones, amino acids, acylated amino acids, lecithins, fluorine compounds, alkylsilane compounds, urethane compounds, acrylic compounds, methacrylic compounds, fatty acids, alkyl titanate compounds and sugar derivatives, and salts thereof.
  • the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide can be obtained, for example, by treating iron oxide and titanium oxide, respectively, with the hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • An amino acid used as a hydrophobic treatment agent may be glycine, alanine, sarcosine, proline, hydroxyproline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid or lysine. These amino acids may also be acylated with a fatty acid.
  • the fatty acid is preferably a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid of 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid of 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Examples of such acylated amino acids include stearoylglutamic acid, lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, stearoyllysine, lauroyllysine and myristoyllysine.
  • a preferred acylated amino acid is myristoylglutamic acid.
  • An amino acid salt may be a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or aluminum salt.
  • the particle sizes of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide may be 0.9 pm or smaller, 0.8 pm or smaller, 0.7 pm or smaller, 0.5 pm or smaller, 0.3 pm or smaller or 0.1 pm or smaller.
  • the particle sizes of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide may also be 0.01 pm or larger, 0.05 pm or larger, 0.1 pm or larger or 0.2 pm or larger.
  • the total amount of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide in the cosmetic composition may be 4 mass% or greater, 5 mass% or greater, 8 mass% or greater, 10 mass% or greater or 12 mass% or greater, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • a total content of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide of 10 mass% or greater is more advantageous for the coverage effect in particular, and is also advantageous for coating smoothness and lasting effect.
  • the total amount of the iron oxide in the hydrophobic treated iron oxide and the titanium oxide in the hydrophobic treated titanium oxide contained in the cosmetic composition may be 3 mass% or more, 4 mass% or more, 5 mass% or more, 8 mass% or more, 10 mass% or more, or 12 mass% or more, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the content ratio by mass of the hydrophobic treated titanium oxide and the hydrophobic treated iron oxide in the cosmetic composition may be from 10:1 to 1:1, preferably from 9:1 to 1: 1, and more preferably from 7:1 to 2: 1.
  • the content ratio by mass of titanium oxide in the hydrophobic treated titanium oxide and iron oxide in the hydrophobic treated iron oxide contained in the cosmetic composition may be from 10:1 to 1:1, preferably from 9:1 to 2:1, and more preferably from 8:1 to 2: 1.
  • the total amount of the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide may be 27 mass% or lower, 25 mass% or lower, 22 mass% or lower, 20 mass% or lower, 18 mass% or lower, 16 mass% or lower or 15 mass% or lower, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of the iron oxide in the hydrophobic treated iron oxide and the titanium oxide in the hydrophobic treated titanium oxide contained in the cosmetic composition may be 27 mass% or less, 25 mass% or less, 22 mass% or less, 20 mass% or less, 18 mass% or less, 16 mass% or less, 15 mass% or less, or 13 mass% or less, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may comprise large amounts of pigments.
  • a conventional water-in-oil cosmetic composition that includes large amounts of pigments tends to be powdery, with a nonsmooth texture and a thicker coated film formed on skin, even if it can exhibit a high coverage effect.
  • the cosmetic composition of this embodiment is able to exhibit stability, film thinness and a smooth texture even when containing a large amount of pigments.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may also comprise a hydrophobic-treated pigment other than a hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide.
  • a hydrophobic-treated pigment other than a hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic-treated titanium oxide examples include metal oxides such as zinc oxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide / Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide, ultramarine, chromium oxide and chromium hydroxide, metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate, and carbon black.
  • the hydrophobic treatment carried out on these materials may be the same as for the hydrophobic-treated iron oxide and hydrophobic -treated titanium oxide.
  • the total content of hydrophobic-treated pigments may be 4 mass% or greater, 5 mass% or greater, 8 mass% or greater, 10 mass% or greater or 12 mass% or greater, and 27 mass% or lower, 25 mass% or lower, 22 mass% or lower, 20 mass% or lower, 18 mass% or lower, 16 mass% or lower or 15 mass% or lower, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the silicone film former to be used for this embodiment may be a silicone compound having a siloxane bond as the main chain, and having a crosslinked structure.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment can exhibit high coverage effect and lasting effect by containing the silicone film former.
  • silicone film formers include trimethylsiloxysilicic acid; acrylsilicone resins such as vinyl polymers with a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure and (acrylates/dimethicone) copolymer; fluorine-modified silicone resins such as trifluoroalkyldimethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; polyprop ylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, polyphenylsilsesquioxane, and tri (trimethylsiloxy) pullulan silylpropylcarpamide.
  • acrylsilicone resins such as vinyl polymers with a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure and (acrylates/dimethicone) copolymer
  • fluorine-modified silicone resins such as trifluoroalkyldimethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates
  • polyprop ylsilsesquioxane polymethylsilsesquioxane
  • the silicone film former is sometimes handled in a state dissolved in a volatile oil, and in these cases the silicone film former may be utilized together with a volatile oil.
  • the amount of volatile oil that may be introduced together with the silicone film former is also summed in as the amount of volatile oil described below.
  • the silicone film former content may be 0.1 mass% or greater, 0.15 mass% or greater, 0.18 mass% or greater or 0.2 mass% or greater with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the silicone film former content may be 3 mass% or lower, 2.8 mass% or lower, 2.6 mass% or lower, 2.4 mass% or lower, 2.2 mass% or lower, less than 2 mass%, 1.5 mass% or lower, 1 mass% or lower, 0.8 mass% or lower, 0.6 mass% or lower, 0.4 mass% or lower or 0.3 mass% or lower, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition. Even when the silicone film former content is within this low range, the cosmetic composition of the embodiment still exhibits an adequate coverage effect and lasting effect.
  • the mass ratio of the total content of the volatile oil and non-volatile oil with respect to the silicone film former content may be from 10:1 to 230:1 or from 10:1 to 200:1, from the viewpoint of imparting a smooth texture, facilitating formation of a thin coated film and increasing the coverage effect and lasting effect.
  • the mass ratio of the total content of the volatile oil and non-volatile oil with respect to the silicone film former content may also be from 50:1 to 200:1, from 100:1 to 200:1, from 120:1 to 200:1, from 150:1 to 200:1 or from 170:1 to 200: 1.
  • the volatile oil in the cosmetic composition of the embodiment consists of a hydrocarbon oil, a straight-chain silicone oil, a branched silicone oil, or a combination thereof.
  • the volatile oil is liquid at ordinary temperature and pressure (at 25 °C, 1 atm, for example).
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment does not contain a volatile cyclic silicone oil.
  • the hydrocarbon oil may be a straight chain hydrocarbon oil or a branched hydrocarbon oil.
  • the volatile oil may have a specific gravity at 20°C of 1 or lower, 0.98 or lower, 0.95 or lower, 0.93 or lower, 0.9 or lower, 0.88 or lower, 0.85 or lower, 0.83 or lower or 0.8 or lower.
  • the specific gravity of the volatile oil at 20°C may also be 0.7 or higher or 0.8 or higher.
  • the flash point of the volatile oil may be 40°C or higher, 60°C or higher, 70°C or higher, 80°C or higher, 90°C or higher or 100°C or higher, and 110°C or lower, 100°C or lower, 98°C or lower or 95°C or lower.
  • the boiling point of the volatile oil may be 60°C or higher, 70°C or higher, 80°C or higher, 90°C or higher, 100°C or higher, 110°C or higher, 120°C or higher, 130°C or higher, 140°C or higher or 150°C or higher, and 260°C or lower, 250°C or lower or 240°C or lower.
  • volatile oils examples include methyltrimethicone, octamethyltrisiloxane, dimethicone, butyl acetate, isododecane, Isohexadecane, (C9-12) alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutene and petroleum volatiles.
  • the volatile oil is preferably isohexadecane from the viewpoint of appropriately slowing the volatilization rate and obtaining a more comfortable smooth texture when coated onto skin by forming a thin layer without feeling of driness.
  • the volatile oil content may be 0.5 mass% or greater, 1 mass% or greater, 3 mass% or greater, 5 mass% or greater, 7 mass% or greater or 10 mass% or greater, and 23 mass% or lower, 20 mass% or lower, 17 mass% or lower, 15 mass% or lower, 13 mass% or lower or 12 mass% or lower, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the non-volatile oil may be liquid or solid at ordinary temperature and pressure.
  • non-volatile oil refers to an oil having a volatile content of 40 % or less when heated at 105 °C for 3 hours.
  • the non-volatile oil may be one with a specific gravity of higher than 1.0 at 20°C, a flash point of 120°C or higher and/or a boiling point of 260°C or higher.
  • Examples of non-volatile oils include propylene carbonate, crambe abyssinica seed oil, castor oil, olive fruit oil, octyldodecanol, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, liquid lanolin, mineral oils, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, linear alkane, phenyltrimethicone, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, alkyl benzoates, dimethicone (for example, dimethicone with a viscosity of
  • the non-volatile oil may be introduced together with the silicone film former and/or organically- modified mineral clay.
  • the non-volatile oil is preferably high-polymerized dimethicone.
  • high-polymerized dimethicone commercial products include the trademark BELSIL GB2170 from Wacker Chemie AG, and the trademarks KF-96H-30000cs, KF-96H-50000cs, and KF-96H-100000cs from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content of the non-volatile oil may be 5 mass% or greater, 8 mass% or greater, 10 mass% or greater or 11 mass% or greater, and 20 mass% or lower, 18 mass% or lower, 16 mass% or lower, 14 mass% or lower or 12 mass% or lower, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the content mass ratio of the volatile oil and non-volatile oil in the cosmetic composition of the embodiment is from 1:1 to 5:1, or it may be from 1:1 to 3.5:1, from 1:1 to 3:1, from 1:1 to 2.5:1, from 1:1 to 2.2:1 or from 1:1 to 2:1.
  • a content mass ratio of the volatile oil and non-volatile oil within this range is preferred from the viewpoint of imparting a smooth texture to the cosmetic composition and facilitating formation of a thin coated film.
  • the polyhydric alcohol has two or more alcoholic hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyhydric alcohol may be an alcohol of 1 to 8 carbon atoms, for example.
  • Examples of polyhydric alcohols are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol. Glycerin is preferred among these from the viewpoint of imparting a more smooth and comfortable texture to the cosmetic composition.
  • the content of the polyhydric alcohol may be 1 mass% or greater, 3 mass% or greater or 4 mass% or greater, and 10 mass% or lower, 8 mass% or lower, 6 mass% or lower or 5 mass% or lower, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the content mass ratio of the polyhydric alcohol and silicone film former in the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may be from 1:1 to 25:1, from 1.5:1 to 25:1, from 5:1 to 25:1, from 10:1 to 25:1, from 15:1 to 25:1, from 18:1 to 25:1 or from 20: 1 to 23 : 1. From the viewpoint of producing a smoother texture for the cosmetic composition and increasing the coverage effect and lasting effect, the content mass ratio of the polyhydric alcohol and silicone film former is preferably from 15:1 to 25:1.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment comprises an organic or inorganic powder having a particle size of greater than 1 pm.
  • the organic or inorganic powder with a particle size of greater than 1 pm preferably has a light diffusing property.
  • a powder with a light diffusing property may be expected to utilize diffuse reflection of light to exhibit a soft focusing effect that deemphasizes irregularities and wrinkles on the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment can increase the coverage effect and lasting effect.
  • the organic or inorganic powder may be spherical or tabular particles, for example.
  • the particle size of the organic or inorganic powder may be 1.1 pm or larger, 1.3 pm or larger, 1.5 pm or larger, 2 pm or larger, 3 pm or larger, 5 pm or larger, 7 pm or larger or 8 pm or larger, for example.
  • the particle size of the organic or inorganic powder may also be 15 pm or smaller or 12 pm or smaller, for example.
  • Organic powder is preferably a biodegradable polymer.
  • the organic powder may be composed of a polymer having a structure that can be decomposed by a polysaccharide degrading enzyme such as cellulase or amylase, or by microorganisms, in a natural environment such as dirt or water.
  • a polysaccharide degrading enzyme such as cellulase or amylase
  • microorganisms in a natural environment such as dirt or water.
  • examples of organic powders include cellulose, cellulose acetate, polylactic acid and starch-based polymer powders.
  • the organic powder preferably does not comprise so-called microplastics.
  • microplastics include particles with particle sizes of 10 pm or smaller that are formed of synthetic resins such as PMMA (polymethacrylic acid resin), polystyrene, polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene terephthalate and polypropylene, polyamide (nylon), polyester, silicone resin powder.
  • the silicone resin powder is different from the silicone film former described above.
  • the material of an inorganic powder with a particle size of greater than 1 pm may be silica, barium sulfate, mica, synthesized mica, calcium carbonate, Aluminum Calcium Sodium Silicate. These materials may be treated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • hydrophobic treatment agents include silicones such as dimethicone, acylated amino acids, amino acids, lecithins, fluorine compounds, alkylsilane compounds, urethane compounds, acrylic compounds, methacrylic compounds, fatty acids, alkyl titanate compounds and sugar derivatives, and salts thereof.
  • the inorganic powder is preferably dimethicone-treated.
  • dimethicone-treated inorganic powders include the products sold under the trademarks MIYOHAZE BT-SA and SA- SB-300, by Miyoshi Kasei, Inc.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment preferably does not include talc. The absence of talc can further improve stability of the cosmetic composition and further maintains a smooth feel by preventing dryness after application.
  • the total amount of organic powder or inorganic powder with a size of greater than 1 pm in the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may be 0.1 mass% or greater, 0.5 mass% or greater, 0.8 mass% or greater or 1.0 mass% or greater, for example, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of organic powder and inorganic powder with a size of greater than 1 pm may also be 8 mass% or lower, 6 mass% or lower, 5 mass% or lower, 4 mass% or lower, 3 mass% or lower, 2 mass% or lower, 1.5 mass% or lower, 1.2 mass% or lower or 1 mass% or lower, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • An organically-modified mineral clay to be used for this embodiment is clay that has been modified to hydrophobicity with an organic molecule.
  • An organically-modified mineral clay has the property of swelling by oil and also has a thickening effect, and it therefore contributes to the stability of the cosmetic composition.
  • Examples of clay include kaolinite, dickite, nacrite, donbassite, antigorite, berthierine, pyrophyllite, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, stevensite, hectorite, saponite, chlorite and sepiolite.
  • Examples of organic molecules include quaternary ammonium salts, and more specifically disteardimonium chloride and stearalkonium chloride. Specific examples of such organically-modified mineral clay s that are known include disteardimonium hectorite and stearalkonium hectorite.
  • the organically-modified mineral clay may be handled in a state dispersed in a volatile oil and/or a non-volatile oil, in which case it may be utilized together with a volatile oil and/or a non-volatile oil.
  • the amounts of each of volatile oil or nonvolatile oil that may be introduced together with the organically-modified mineral clay are summed in as the amount of volatile oil or non-volatile oil described below.
  • organically-modified mineral clays include the products sold under the trademarks BENTON GEL® by Elementis company, such as BENTON GEL® ISD V which are swollen with a volatile oil or a non-volatile oil; BENTON® 38V or BENTON® 27 V, which are not swollen by a volatile oil or a non-volatile oil and is available as pure powder.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment is a water-in-oil type.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment also comprises water.
  • the water content may be 5 mass% or greater, 8 mass% or greater, 10 mass% or greater, 13 mass% or greater, 15 mass% or greater, 18 mass% or greater or 20 mass% or greater, and 30 mass% or lower, 28 mass% or lower, 25 mass% or lower or 23 mass% or lower, for example, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may further comprise a lower monoalcohol.
  • a lower monoalcohol is a monoalcohol of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, examples of which include ethanol, 1 -propanol and 2-propanol (isopropanol).
  • Comprising a lower monoalcohol is preferred because it can provide a pleasant feeling of use due to a cooling sensation, and to further enhance the coverage effect and lasting effect by enhancing the adhesiveness.
  • the content of the lower monoalcohol may be 1 mass% or greater, 3 mass% or greater, 5 mass% or greater or 7 mass% or greater, and 15 mass% or lower or 12 mass% or lower, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may further comprise an active ingredient.
  • Niacinamide is an example of an active ingredient. If the cosmetic composition comprises niacinamide it will be possible to provide an anti-wrinkle and whitening effect for the cosmetic composition.
  • the niacinamide content may be 1 mass% or greater, 2 mass% or greater, 3 mass% or greater or 5 mass% or greater, and 10 mass% or lower, 8 mass% or lower or 6 mass% or lower, for example, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the properties of the cosmetic composition of the embodiment such as texture, coverage effect, lasting effect and stability, are essentially unaffected by the presence of niacinamide in amounts within these ranges. [0065] (Other components)
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may further comprise components such as antimicrobial agents, antioxidants and perfume in addition to the components mentioned above.
  • An antimicrobial agent may be a component commonly used in the field of cosmetics as an antimicrobial agent.
  • the antimicrobial agent may be used for the purpose of preventing growth of microbes in the cosmetic to increase the long-term stability as a product, or for the purpose of maintaining or improving the balance of skin microflora (for example, Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus).
  • antimicrobial agents include sodium benzoate; sodium dl-a- tocopherylphosphate; o-cymen-5-ol; saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 12 to 28 carbon atoms such as oleic acid and linoleic acid; and plant extracts such as hydrangea extract, izayoi rose extract, isopropylmethylphenol, oolong tea extract, rose fruit extract, Scutellaria root extract, phellodendron bark extract, Coptis japonica root extract, olive leaf extract, persimmon tannin, caprylyl 2-glycerylascorbate, camomile flower extract, chamomilla extract, Chinese quince extract, Artemisia capillaris extract, licorice extract, xylitol, yellowfin bark extract, kuma bamboo grass extract, Sophora angustifolia root extract, black tea extract, hawthorn extract, Japanese pepper extract, lithospermum root extract, shiso extract
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may be 1000 cps or higher, 1100 cps or higher, 1200 cps or higher, 1500 cps or higher, 1800 cps or higher, 2000 cps or higher or 2200 cps or higher, and 12,000 cps or lower, 11,000 cps or lower, 10,000 cps or lower, 8000 cps or lower, 6000 cps or lower, 4000 cps or lower, 3000 cps or lower, 2800 cps or lower or 2600 cps or lower.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic composition of this embodiment is suitable for use as a foundation, a concealer, a makeup base, a primer, a highlighter.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic composition of the embodiment may also be a cosmetic or quasi drug.
  • a cosmetic composition of this embodiment can be produced by a common method, and for example, it can be produced by homogenizing each of the starting materials as necessary and mixing them to uniformity.
  • Another aspect of the embodiment relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making-up keratinic materials, comprising the application onto keratinic materials, in particular onto skin, of the cosmetic composition.
  • component A pigment
  • component E non-volatile oil
  • component B soft focusing powder
  • component C surfactant
  • component D volatile oil
  • component F silicone film former
  • component G organically-modified mineral clay
  • MIYOHAZE® BT-SA MIYOSHI KASEI company
  • Viscosity measurement was carried out using a viscometer (Rheolab® QC Anton Paar) and cylinder ST22-4V-40, for 3 minutes at 25°C, 100 rpm. The results are shown in Tables 4 to 6.
  • A Very excellent (e.g.: blemishes and pores completely concealed in all panels.)
  • B Excellent (e.g.: blemishes not visible to all panels, but pores visible to 1 or 2 panels.)
  • A Very excellent (e.g.: no breakup of the make-up film even after 8 hours for all panels.)
  • D Somewhat poor (e.g.: breakup of the make-up film experienced by 1 or 2 panels after 4 hours.)
  • A Very excellent (e.g.: very good spreading, leaving a natural impression with no suffocating feel.)
  • A Very excellent (e.g.: spreading with a very light sensation and no feeling of resistance, giving the foundation film a feeling of smoothness and softness.)
  • B Excellent (e.g.: spreading with a light sensation, giving the foundation film a feeling of smoothness and softness.)
  • Each prepared cosmetic composition was placed in a transparent container and sealed with a covering, and then stored for 1 month at 50°C. As a control, each cosmetic composition was also used after storage for 1 month at room temperature. The appearance of each cosmetic composition after storage was visually observed. An evaluation of "B: Not good” was made when either or both aggregation or separation of the powder was observed compared to the control, and an evaluation of "A: Good” was made when there was no difference from the control.
  • Aggregation of the powder indicates that the pigment is unevenly dispersed, producing uneven color or color streaks. Separation indicates that the oil phase or aqueous phase has separated when allowed to stand, resulting in disintegration of the emulsified state.
  • the cosmetic compositions obtained in the Examples were superior in terms of all of the properties of coverage effect, lasting effect, film thinness, smooth texture and stability.
  • the cosmetic compositions obtained in the Comparative Examples on the other hand, exhibited inferior results for one or more of the properties of coverage effect, lasting effect, film thinness, smooth texture and stability.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique eau-dans-huile comprenant un tensioactif de silicone ayant un HLB de 2 à 8, un alcool polyhydrique, une huile volatile, une huile non volatile, un oxyde de fer traité hydrophobe, un oxyde de titane traité hydrophobe, un agent de formation de film de silicone, une argile minérale organiquement modifiée, et une poudre organique et/ou une poudre inorganique, l'huile volatile étant composée d'une huile hydrocarbonée, d'une huile de silicone à chaîne droite, d'une huile de silicone ramifiée ou d'une combinaison de celles-ci, le rapport massique de teneur de l'huile volatile et de l'huile non volatile étant de 1:1 à 5:1, les tailles de particules de l'oxyde de fer traité hydrophobe et de l'oxyde de titane traité hydrophobe étant inférieures à 1 µm, les tailles de particules de la poudre organique et/ou de la poudre inorganique étant supérieures à 1 µm, et l'oxyde de fer traité hydrophobe et l'oxyde de titane traité hydrophobe étant traités avec un ou plusieurs éléments choisis dans le groupe constitué par des silicones, des acides aminés acylés, des acides aminés, des lécithines, des composés fluorés, des composés d'alkylsilane, des composés d'uréthane, des composés acryliques, des composés méthacryliques, des acides gras, des composés de titanate d'alkyle et des dérivés de sucre, et des sels de ceux-ci.
PCT/EP2020/087537 2020-12-21 2020-12-21 Composition cosmétique eau-dans-huile Ceased WO2022135682A1 (fr)

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2025006850A1 (fr) * 2023-06-30 2025-01-02 L'oreal Compositions d'émulsion e/h contenant un composé pullulane modifié de manière hydrophobe et un agent de formation de film en phase aqueuse
WO2025074553A1 (fr) * 2023-10-04 2025-04-10 Lvmh Recherche Composition cosmétique en émulsion eau dans l'huile
WO2025149436A1 (fr) * 2024-01-11 2025-07-17 L'oreal Émulsion eau dans huile comprenant un alcane volatil, un mélange non volatil d'alcanes c15 c19, une huile de silicone volatile acyclique, un aérogel de silice hydrophobe et un émulsifiant de silicone

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH115712A (ja) * 1997-06-13 1999-01-12 Shiseido Co Ltd 油中水型乳化組成物及びこれを用いた乳化化粧料
JP2004026833A (ja) 2002-06-26 2004-01-29 L'oreal Sa 油中水型エマルションファンデーション
JP2014129292A (ja) * 2012-12-28 2014-07-10 Kao Corp 粉体含有油中水型乳化化粧料
EP2915523A1 (fr) * 2012-10-30 2015-09-09 Shiseido Company Ltd. Composition d'émulsion eau-dans-l'huile
JP2016088900A (ja) * 2014-11-07 2016-05-23 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 油中水型皮膚外用組成物
US20200138691A1 (en) * 2017-05-25 2020-05-07 Fujifilm Corporation Water-in-oil type cosmetic

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH115712A (ja) * 1997-06-13 1999-01-12 Shiseido Co Ltd 油中水型乳化組成物及びこれを用いた乳化化粧料
JP2004026833A (ja) 2002-06-26 2004-01-29 L'oreal Sa 油中水型エマルションファンデーション
EP2915523A1 (fr) * 2012-10-30 2015-09-09 Shiseido Company Ltd. Composition d'émulsion eau-dans-l'huile
JP2014129292A (ja) * 2012-12-28 2014-07-10 Kao Corp 粉体含有油中水型乳化化粧料
JP2016088900A (ja) * 2014-11-07 2016-05-23 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 油中水型皮膚外用組成物
US20200138691A1 (en) * 2017-05-25 2020-05-07 Fujifilm Corporation Water-in-oil type cosmetic

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2025006850A1 (fr) * 2023-06-30 2025-01-02 L'oreal Compositions d'émulsion e/h contenant un composé pullulane modifié de manière hydrophobe et un agent de formation de film en phase aqueuse
WO2025074553A1 (fr) * 2023-10-04 2025-04-10 Lvmh Recherche Composition cosmétique en émulsion eau dans l'huile
WO2025149436A1 (fr) * 2024-01-11 2025-07-17 L'oreal Émulsion eau dans huile comprenant un alcane volatil, un mélange non volatil d'alcanes c15 c19, une huile de silicone volatile acyclique, un aérogel de silice hydrophobe et un émulsifiant de silicone
FR3158228A1 (fr) * 2024-01-11 2025-07-18 L'oreal Emulsion E/H comprenant un alcane volatil, un mélange non volatil d’alcanes en C15- C19, une huile siliconée volatile non cyclique, un aérogel de silice hydrophobe et un émulsionnant siliconé

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