WO2022178600A1

WO2022178600A1 - Antiperspirant cosmetic compositions, use of the antiperspirant cosmetic composition, and process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2022178600A1
Application number: PCT/BR2021/050087
Authority: WO
Inventors: Bruna Rodrigues SALOMAO; João Vitor FLORIDO FRANCA
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-02-26
Filing date: 2021-02-26
Publication date: 2022-09-01
Anticipated expiration: 2023-08-26
Also published as: FR3120191A1

Abstract

The present invention is directed to an antiperspirant cosmetic composition which combines whitening actives and aluminum salts to achieve armpits whitening effect in combination with sweat protection and unpleasant odor. Additionally, the present invention is directed to the use of an antiperspirant cosmetic composition and process for manufacturing of an antiperspirant cosmetic composition.

Description

ANTIPERSPIRANT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, USE OF THE ANTIPERSPIRANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION, AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Sweating, though a natural bodily function, results in the formation of wet patches on human skin and/or clothing. Moreover, the sweat secreted from sweat glands has a tendency to form a malodorous odor due to its interaction with the many microorganisms which reside on the skin surface, particularly the skin of the underarm. These two phenomena are deemed to be undesirable for consumers.

Products are commonly available which help to address both phenomena. More particularly, antiperspirant products possess ingredients which inhibit/suppress sweating, whereas deodorant products possess ingredients that mask the malodors caused by sweat. Many products address both phenomena simultaneously.

Antiperspirant active agents generally consist of salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxy halides. These substances help to reduce the flow of sweat.

A variety of different antiperspirant products are available in the market, such as powders, liquids, gels or soft solids and sticks.

To achieve a satisfactory antiperspirant effect, it is needed to use high concentrations of antiperspirant active agents. Such high concentration of antiperspirant active agents affects the stabilization of the cosmetic composition in view of the interaction with the other ingredients, as well as can cause irritation to the skin. Aluminum salts are electrolytes and their charge properties can affect the stability of the formulation and efficacy of the active ingredients.

Another common consumer need is regarding darkening of the armpits. This is because, when the armpits’ skin is damaged, an inflammatory process occurs that triggers the pigmentation of the skin. The aggression of the skin can occur due to the methods of hair removal (hot wax and/or razor), hormonal problems, excessive exposure to the sun, inappropriate cosmetic products for the armpits (for example a deodorant containing alcohol), among others.

Therefore, there is a need to develop a stable antiperspirant cosmetic composition that provides protection against sweat and malodors, while also provide whitening effect to the armpits.

The challenge to achieve such antiperspirant cosmetic composition is the combination of the key raw materials with a high content of aluminum salts, while maintaining the physical stability of the composition.

As aluminum salts are electrolytes, some active compounds that are traditionally used in other cosmetic compositions, such as skin-care products, could not work well in presence of a system with high amount of charge. Otherwise, the composition of the present invention has proven that the combination of ingredients had an instrumentally measure whitening effect for armpits (such result is not achieved with any combination of ingredients). The major whitening deodorant/antiperspirant products in the market have such claim based on consumer perception. However, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention has achieved not only good results in view of consumer perception but also in instrumental measures without causing irritation.

Thus, in order to overcome the drawbacks of the state of the art, the inventors of the present invention developed an antiperspirant cosmetic composition, which comprises whitening actives and high amounts of aluminum salts, wherein the composition is stable over the time (physical stability), providing protection against sweat and malodors, whitening the armpits and providing the homogenization of armpit’s tone. Particularly, the invention achieved the desired whitening effect in presence of high concentration of aluminum salts, combining whitening agent, exfoliant peeling agent, vitamin, caffeine and antiperspirant agents, while maintaining the physical stability, which was achieved by the specific raw materials and concentration ranges. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises exfoliant peeling agent, whitening agent, vitamin, caffeine, and antiperspirant agents.

Such antiperspirant cosmetic composition is stable over the time (physical stability), providing protection against sweat and malodors, whitening the armpits and providing the homogenization of armpit’s tone. The inventors also have achieved good consumer perceiving results for hydration and softness of the skin.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present invention. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments but, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable to use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the invention concepts as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant state of the art.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.

The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

All percentages, parts and ratios are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the specific ingredient level and, therefore, do not include solvents, carriers, by-products, fillers (preferably talc and perlite) or other minor ingredients that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

“Cosmetically acceptable” means that the item in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which can encompass +/- 10%, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1%, or +/- 0.5%. In an embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) about 0.1% to about 3% of exfoliant peeling agent, selected from capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) about 0.2% to about 3% of whitening agent, selected from phenylethyl resorcinol, Baicaline root extract, Kojic Acid, Arbutin, and mixtures thereof;

(c) about 2% to about 10% of vitamin, selected from niacinamide;

(d) about 0.5 to about 5% of caffeine; and

(e) about 5% to about 50% of antiperspirant agents selected from aluminum salts, wherein all the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the exfoliant peeling agent is in a range of from about 0.15% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 1%, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 0.8%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the whitening agent is in a range of from about 0.3 to about 2%, preferably from about 0.4% to about 1 %, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 0.8%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the vitamin is in a range of from about 4 to about 8%, preferably from about 5% to about 7%, even more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the caffeine is in a range of from about 0.8 to about 2%, preferably from about 0.9% to about 1.8%, even more preferably from about 1% to about 1.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the antiperspirant agent is in a range of about 10% to about 45% and more preferably from about 25% to about 35%, more preferably from about 10% to about 25%, and even more preferably from about 10% to about 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, but not limited to, the antiperspirant agent is selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention has a pH of from about 3.5 to about 5.0, preferably from about 4.0 to about 4.5.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.

In a preferred embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition may be in the form of lotions, milks, creams, gels, gel creams, foams, sprays and sticks.

In another preferred embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition may be in emulsion formats (W/O or O/W), such as roll-ons and anhydrous formats.

In preferred embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the invention is in a roll-on form.

In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of the antiperspirant cosmetic composition for manufacturing a product for reducing, masking, or absorbing human unpleasant body odors and whitening the armpits.

A preferential example of a suitable antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

In another non-limitative preferential example of a suitable antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) about 0.15% to about 2% of capryloyl salicylic acid;

(b) about 0.3% to about 2% of phenylethyl resorcinol;

(c) about 2% to about 8% of niacinamide;

(d) about 0.8% to about 2% of caffeine;

(e) about 10% to about 45% of aluminum salts, such as aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, and mixtures thereof; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition. In another further preferential example of a suitable antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) about 0.15% to about 2% of capryloyl salicylic acid;

(b) about 0.3% to about 2% of phenylethyl resorcinol;

(c) about 3% to about 5% of niacinamide; (d) about 0.8% to about 2% of caffeine;

(e) about 10% to about 25% of aluminum salts, such as aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, and mixtures thereof; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In another non-limitative and further preferential example of a suitable antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) about 0.15% to about 2% of capryloyl salicylic acid;

(b) about 0.5% to about 2% of phenylethyl resorcinol;

(c) about 4% to about 5% of niacinamide;

(d) about 1% to about 2% of caffeine;

(e) about 10% to about 20% of aluminum salts, such as aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, and mixtures thereof; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise deodorant active agents. Preferred deodorant active agents may be selected from zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof. The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention does not comprise magnesium oxide (incompatible with W/O or O/W formulations).

If present, the deodorant active agent is in a range of from about 0.1% to about 5%, preferably about 0.5% to about 3%, and more preferably from about 1% to 2%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXFOLIANT PEELING AGENTS

In a non-limitative preferred embodiment, the capryloyl salicylic acid is used as exfoliant peeling agent. Such capryloyl salicylic acid is a derivative (ester) of salicylic acid (2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid), known as lipohydroxy acid (LHA).

The degree of exfoliation will depend on the amount of exfoliant peeling ingredient.

As the salicylic acid, the capryloyl derivative has exfoliating and soothing properties, as well as documented improvement in skin tone, wrinkles, and clogged pores. Additionally, capryloyl salicylic acid has many cosmetic functions such as an anti-aging and anti-acne active.

Particularly, such ingredient is more lipophilic or fat-dissolving, allowing a gentle exfoliation by weakening bonds between the cells of the surface layer of the stratum corneum. It also possesses astringent properties that further enable better skin protection.

Further exfoliant agents according to the present invention include salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The exfoliant agent of the present invention is in a range of from about 0.1% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.15% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 1%, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 0.8%, based on the total weight of the composition.

WHITENING AGENTS

In a non-limitative preferred embodiment, the phenylethyl resorcinol (1 ,3- Benzenediol, 4-(1 -Phenylethyl) is used as whitening agent.

Further whitening agents according to the present invention include Baicaline root extract, Kojic Acid, Arbutin, and mixtures thereof.

The whitening agent of the present invention is in a range of from about 0.2 to about 3%, preferably from about 0.3 to about 2%, preferably from about 0.4% to about 1%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 0.8%, based on the total weight of the composition.

VITAMINS

In a non-limitative preferred embodiment, the niacinamide is used in the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention and will improve the whitening effect. Niacinamide has the ability of stop transfer melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, besides it has an anti-inflammatory effect

Further vitamins according to the present invention may include vitamin C.

The vitamins of the present invention are in a range of from about 2 to about 10%, preferably from about 4 to about 8%, preferably from about 5% to about 7%, even more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.

ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVE AGENTS

The term “antiperspirant ingredient” means any substance capable of reducing the flow of sweat. The antiperspirant ingredients which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from aluminum salts, such as aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, and mixtures thereof. Other examples are the zirconium salts, complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and of aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of aluminum salts useful in the invention include, for example, aluminum chlorohydrate in the activated or nonactivated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulphate buffered by sodium aluminum lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof.

Complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and of aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). They are disclosed, for example, in patent US-3792068. The ZAG complexes usually exhibit an Al/Zr quotient ranging from about 1 .67 to 12.5 and a Metal/Cl quotient ranging from about 0.73 to 1.93. Non-limiting examples of these complexes include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachloro-hydrex glycine aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the antiperspirant ingredient is aluminum chlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 103, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 301 , aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY (INCI name), in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH AZP-908, and mixtures thereof. Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY can be combined with a maximum of 5% of aluminum chlorohydrate.

The antiperspirant ingredients are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a range of from about 5% to about 50%, preferably from about 10% to about 45%, preferably from about 25% to about 35%, more preferably from about 10% to about 25%, and even more preferably from about 10% to about 20%, based on the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfumes/fragrances, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, additional actives agents, vitamins, polymers, deodorant active agents, fatty compounds, oils, fillers and mixtures thereof.

Additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1% to 30%, by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the examples.

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE ANTIPERSPIRANT COSMETIC

COMPOSITION

Another embodiment of the present invention is related to a process of manufacturing a cosmetic composition, as defined in the present application, for roll- on/emulsion formulations, comprising the steps of:

(i) mixing 50% water phase with hydrophilic actives;

(ii) adding the oil phase and heating until 75°C;

(iii) performing an emulsion step with high shear for at least 10 min;

(iv) freezing the mixture and adding aluminum salt(s). EXAMPLES 1 TO 4

A suitable composition according to the present invention are Examples 1 and 2 and suitable comparative compositions according to the state of the art are Examples 3 (skin formulation with the whitening complex, but without aluminum salt) and 4 (deodorant formulation with whitening active but without good results in previously clinical study), as follows:

TABLE 1 A

Compositions of the present invention and Comparative Examples

Example 5

In order to evaluate the lightening efficacy of Examples 1 and 2 in roll-on format in hyperpigmented armpits, a test was carried out with 48 volunteers with phototype II to V for 56 days, through instrumental analysis using Chromameter.

Particularly, the assessment time was TO, T14, T28 and T56 days, the product was applied 2 times/day at home and the armpits were shaved before assessment.

The evaluation was carried out during 60 minutes in controlled environment (21 ± 2 ^QC, 45% ± 5 %RH).

To measure the results it was used a Chromameter CR 400: L^*, ITA °°, DI_* DITA°°, DE, Clinical scoring, Hyperpigmentation Atlas, Self-evaluation questionnaire.

The evaluated parameters of the Chromameter were as follows: · L^* Skin luminosity (higher values= more luminous skin);

• DI_^* Difference Between the mean values of darkened zone and mean values of control zone;

• Individual Topological Angle (ITA^Q) - Characterizes skin clarity (higher values = higher levels of clarity);

• AITA^Q Difference Between the mean values of darkened zone and mean values of control zone;

• DE Difference Between darkened and control zones in terms of L^*, b^* and a^*.

• † L^* or ITA^Q of darkened zone = Lightening of treated area

• † AL^* or DITA°= Improvement of treated zone

• l DE = Product can homogenize darkened and control areas.

As conclusion, it was observed the following points:

- Examples 1 and 2 present armpit whitening efficacy after 56 days of use (2x/ day);

- Example 1 homogenizes the armpit after 28 days of use;

- Example 2 homogenizes the armpit after 56 days of use;

- There are no statistically significant differences between the products for instrumental or clinical evaluation;

- > 50% of the subjects feel their skin is hydrated and softer since DO for both;

- > 50% of the subjects can perceive the whitening effect of both products since D14;

- > 50% of the subjects can perceive that both products are able to homogenize their skin respecting their natural tone since D28.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS

1. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) 0.1% to 3% of exfoliant peeling agent selected from capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof; (b) 0.2% to 3% of whitening agent selected from phenylethyl resorcinol, Baicaline root extract, kojic acid, arbutin, and mixtures thereof;

(c) 2% to 10% of vitamin selected from niacinamide;

(d) 0.5 to 5% of caffeine; and

(e) 5% to 50% of antiperspirant agent selected from aluminum salts, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

2. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the exfoliant peeling agent is in a range from 0.15% to 2%, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the whitening agent is in a range from 0.3% to 2%, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the vitamin is in a range from 4% to 8%, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein caffeine is in a range from 0.8% to 2%, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the aluminum salts are selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof.

7. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the antiperspirant agent is in a range of 10 to 45%, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the antiperspirant cosmetic composition further comprises optional ingredients selected from perfumes/fragrances, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, additional actives agents, vitamins, polymers, deodorant active agents, fatty compounds, oils, fillers and mixtures thereof.

9. The antiperspirant cosmetic composition comprising

(a) 0.1 % to 2% of capryloyl salicylic acid;

(b) 0.3% to 2% of phenylethyl resorcinol;

(c) 4% to 5% of niacinamide;

(d) 0.6 to 2% of caffeine; and

(e) 10% to 25% of aluminum salts, selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof; wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

10. Use of an antiperspirant cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) 0.1 % to 3% of capryloyl salicylic acid

(b) 0.2% to 3% of phenylethyl resorcinol;

(c) 2% to 10% of niacinamide;

(d) 0.5 to 5% of caffeine; and

(e) 5% to 50% of aluminum salts, based on the total weight of the composition, wherein it is for the manufacture of a product for bleaching, whitening underarms, homogenizing armpit tone and protecting against sweat and bad odor.

11. PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC COMPOSITION, comprising:

(a) 0.1 % to 3% of capryloyl salicylic acid

(b) 0.2% to 3% of phenylethyl resorcinol;

(c) 2% to 10% of niacinamide;

(d) 0.5 to 5% of caffeine; and

(e) 5% to 50% of aluminum salts, based on the total weight of the composition, wherein the process comprises the steps of:

(i) mixing the water phase with hydrophilic actives;

(ii) adding the oil phase and heating until 75°C;

(iii) performing an emulsion step with high shear for at least 10 min;

(iv) freezing the mixture and adding aluminum salt(s)..