WO2022150949A1

WO2022150949A1 - Biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2022150949A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/071196
Authority: WO
Inventors: Nariyoshi YOSHIOKS
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-01-12
Filing date: 2021-01-12
Publication date: 2022-07-21
Anticipated expiration: 2023-07-12
Also published as: FR3118706A1; FR3118706B1; CN116806139A

Abstract

It relates to a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising: a) at least one branched alkane containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; b) at least one demixing agent of formula (I) in which: R represents a linear alkyl having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, R 1 and R 2 independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl group, Q -represents a anionic counterion especially halide such as chloride; c) at least one chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof, and d) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, wherein the composition is silicone-free. It also relates to a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition according to the present invention to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

Description

BIPHASE COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND/OR REMOVING MAKEUPS FROM KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular, a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials using said composition.

BACKGROUD ART

Cleansing the skin or removing makeups from the skin is very important for caring for the skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.

Several types of skin cleansing or makeup removing products, for example, rinsable anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams and lotions, as well as biphase makeup removers, are known.

Compositions consisting of two separate phases, in particular, an aqueous phase and a fatty phase which are separate, are generally referred to as "biphase compositions" . Biphase compositions appeal to consumers on account of their pearly appearance. The two phases are separate at rest by a single interface.

The use, in biphase compositions, of silicone oils such as cyclopentasiloxane, for example, in a suitable amount may make it possible to obtain biphase compositions consisting of two separate immiscible phases which form, after shaking, an emulsion, while keeping the desired properties for the biphase compositions, i.e. rapid phase separation into two transparent phases.

US 5,468,496 discloses a biphase cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising cyclomethicone as oil and alkyldimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride and surfactant in aqueous phase. The composition can be mixed easily and complete separation can be achieved.

Moreover, consumers are increasingly in search of cosmetic products formed on the basis of natural constituents or constituents of natural origin, in particular products not comprising any volatile silicone compounds.

The skilled in the art have made efforts to develop “silicone-free” biphase makeup removers. For example, they have tried to use branched alkane, for example isododecane instead of silicone oil. However, mixing and separation of the two phases of the biphase products containing branched alkane is difficult, even in the presence of demixing agent such as alkyldimethylammonium chloride, and there will be droplets on the inside wall of the containers for the biphase products.

Therefore, there is a need to formulate silicone-free biphase makeup removers, which are easy to form an emulsion upon shaking and demonstrate good makeup removability, the two phases can start to separate quickly and separate completely, meanwhile, there is no droplets on the inside wall of containers therefor and no greasy feeling upon application.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.

Thus, according to an aspect, the present invention provides a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising:

a) at least one branched alkane containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

b) at least one demixing agent of formula (I)

in which:

R represents a linear alkyl having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms,

R ¹ and R ² independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl group,

Q ^-represents a anionic counterion especially halide such as chloride;

c) at least one chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof, and

d) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide,

wherein the composition is silicone-free.

The composition according to the present invention is easy to form an emulsion upon shaking, for example after gentle shaking for 10 times.

The composition according to the present invention can demonstrate good makeup removability, especially for water-proof products, for example, lipsticks, mascaras, eye liners, and water-proof foundations.

The composition according to the present invention can start to separate into two phases after 1 minute’s standing, and a clear aqueous phase, a clear oily phase and a sharp interface between the aqueous phase and the oily phase can be observed within 24 hours after being still, even after being subjected to a 5 days’ cycle of once shaking per 24 hours, meanwhile, there is no droplets on the inside wall of containers therefor.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention also provides a good skin finish (i.e. fresh feeling) after application.

The composition according to the present invention may be used for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular, the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition according to the present invention to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "ranging from... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin. The face, the lips and the eyes are most particularly considered according to the present invention.

By "an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate" , it means that the aqueous phase and the oily phase are visible one on top of the other before shaking. The two phases may or may not be coloured.

By "silicone-free" , it means that the content of the silicone in the composition is less than 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition does not comprise any silicone.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

According to an aspect, the present invention relates to a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising:

a) at least one branched alkane containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

b) at least one demixing agent of formula (I)

in which:

R represents a linear alkyl having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms,

R ¹ and R ² independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl group;

Q- represents a anionic counterion especially halide such as chloride;

wherein the composition is silicone-free.

Branched alkane

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one branched alkane comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

As examples of branched alkane comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, mention can be made of, 2, 2, 4-trimethylpentane, isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane.

As commercial products of branched alkane (s) comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, mention can be made of, the isoparaffins sold under the trade name Isopar by the company Exxon Chemical or the oils sold under the trade name Permethyl by the company Presperse, and isohexadecane and isododecane sold by the company Ineos.

The branched alkane may be selected from isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the branched alkane comprises from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the branched alkane as the only oil.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane as the only oils.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as the only oils, a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane at a weight ratio from 30: 70 to 70: 30, preferably from 40: 60 to 60: 40.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises isohexadecane as the only oil.

Advantageously, the branched alkane (s) comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Demixing agent

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one demixing agent selected from alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride of formula (I) :

in which:

R represents a linear alkyl essentially having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms,

R ¹ and R ² independently represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,

Q- represents a anionic counterion especially halide such as chloride.

Preferably, the demixing agent used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tridecyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, myristyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, pentadecyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, palmityldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the demixing agent used in the composition according to the present invention is a mixture of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride of formula (I) comprising lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, myristyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and palmityldimethylbenzylammonium chloride.

More preferably, the demixing agent used in the composition according to the present invention is a mixture of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride of formula (I) comprising 50-70 wt. %of lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, 15-30 wt. %of myristyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and 5-10 wt. %of palmityldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

Most preferably, the demixing agent used in the composition according to the present invention is a mixture of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chlorides of formula (I) consisting of approximately 65 wt. %of lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, approximately 23 wt. %of myristyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and approximately 8 wt. %of palmityldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, the remainder consisting of at least one alkyldimethylammonium chloride in which the radical has fewer than 12 or more than 16 carbon atoms.

As a mixture of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chlorides which can be used according to the invention, mention can be made of that marketed under the name "benzalkoniumchloride" by the company SIGMA ALDRICH, the characteristics of which are as follows:

Molecular weight: 360

Melting point: 35℃.

Advantageously, the demixing agent selected from alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride of formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.005 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 0.05 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Chelating agent

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof.

The salts are especially alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

The chelating agents may be selected in particular from the compounds having the following INCI name:

diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) ,

ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS,

ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) ,

ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG) ,

glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS) ,

2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS) ,

ethylenediamine-N, N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA) ,

N, N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic acid (HBED) ,

nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) ,

methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA) ,

N-2-hydroxyethyl-N, N-diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133) ,

iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102) ,

beta-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382) ,

chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382) ,

ethanoldiglycine acid, and

tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

Among the chelating agents mentioned, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) , S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) , and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) , and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.

Advantageously, the sequestrant is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.005 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-ionic surfactant

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.

The ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate is in the aqueous phase.

The polycondensate is more specifically a copolymer consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the chemical structure of formula (II) :

H- (O-CH ₂-CH ₂) a- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) b- (O-CH ₂-CH ₂) a-OH (II)

in which

a ranges from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100.

Preferably, in formula (II) , aranges from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide preferably has an average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000 g/mol, and more preferably ranging from 1500 to 10000 g/mol, and in particular ranging from 1500 to 8000 g/mol, and even more preferably ranging from 1500 to 5000 g/mol.

As a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that can be used according to the present invention, mention can be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the names "SYNPERONIC" such as "

PE/F32" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 108) , "

PE/F108" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 338) , "

PE/L44" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 124) , "

PE/L42 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 122) , "

PE/F127" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 407) , "

PE/F88" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 238) , "

PE/L 62" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 182) , "

PE/L64" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 184) by the CRODA company, or "

F68" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 188) by the BASF company.

Among the poloxamers, POLOXAMER 184 is preferred.

Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.005 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have found that with the combination of demixing agent of formula (I) , chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof, and non-ionic surfactant selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, complete separation of the aqueous phase and the oily phase can be achieved, a clear aqueous phase, a clear oily phase, and a sharp interface between the aqueous phase and the oily phase can be observed within 24 hours after being still.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C ₂-C ₈ polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

The aqueous phase may represent from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

The composition of the present invention comprises an oily phase.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one additional non-silicone oil other than the branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

The additional non-silicone oil (s) may be selected from volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils other than the branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.

The term “volatile” refers to a compound that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg) , preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially rangingfrom 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .

Examples of non-silicone oils that may be used in the composition of the invention include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as perhydrosqualene, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, for instance the oils of formulae R ¹COOR ² and R ¹OR ² in which R ¹ represents a fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R ² represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- volatile or non-volatile, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, and derivatives thereof, other than the branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as liquid petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as

oil; volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane or tridecane;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one additional non-silicone oil selected from the following hydrocarbon-based oils: fatty acid esters comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate or isocetyl stearate; linear hydrocarbons such as

oil and liquid petroleum jelly, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane or tridecane. Among the volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, mention may be made of alkanes such as those that are described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon) . These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7) , n-octane (C8) , n-nonane (C9) , n-decane (C10) , n-undecane (C11) , n-dodecane (C12) , n-tridecane (C13) and n-tetradecane (C14) , and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention does not comprise any additional non-silicone oil. In such embodiments, the composition comprises only oils selected from branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, alone or as a mixture.

In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises a ether or linear alkane to improve the skin sensory.

In the composition of the invention, all oils taken together, the total amount of oil (s) may range from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %and preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase can comprise additional ingredients rather than the oil (s) , as mentioned later.

Advantageously, the oily phase represents from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, and preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in skincare cleansers.

The composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise in the oily phase and/or the aqueous phase an additional ingredient selected from pH adjusting agents (e.g. potassium phosphate and dipotassium phosphate) , additional surfactants, preservatives (e.g. hydroxyacetophenone, chlorphenesin) , fragrances (e.g. perfumes, essential oils) , tear osmotic pressure adjusting agents (e.g. sodium chloride) , colorant (e.g. copper derivatives such as copper sulfate) and thickeners.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprises cationic preservative and cationic surfactant.

A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %of at least one branched alkane containing from 12 to 16 carbon atoms;

b) from 0.01 wt. %to 0.05 wt. %of at least one demixing agent of formula (I)

in which:

R represents a linear alkyl having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms,

R ¹ and R ² independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl group,

Q ^-represents chloride;

c) from 0.01 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %at least one chelating agent selected fromethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) , S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) , and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) , and mixtures thereof; and

d) from 0.01 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates having the chemical structure of formula (II) :

H- (O-CH ₂-CH ₂) a- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) b- (O-CH ₂-CH ₂) a-OH (II)

in which a ranges from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80,

wherein the composition is silicone-free.

Galenic forms and use

The composition according to the present invention may be conditioned, in a known manner, in a bottle with a single compartment. The user must shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto a pad of cotton wool. The composition may also be conditioned in a bottle of "pump-action bottle" type.

It may be used as a daily facial cleanser and/or makeup remover. The composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product. Thus, such a composition can be applied on the skin (for example, the face, the lips, the eyes) , and then rinsed with flush water.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition according to the present invention to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

It was found that the composition according to the present invention is easy to form an emulsion upon shaking, for example after gentle shaking for 10 times.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention also provides a good skin finish (i.e. no greasy feeling) after application.

The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.

EXAMPLES

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Comparative Examples 1-6 and Invention Example 1

Compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-6 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in % by weight of the total weight of the phase containing it.

Preparation process

The compositions were prepared as follows, taking the composition according to Invention Example 1 as an example.

Firstly, the oily phase and the aqueous phase were prepared separately.

Oily phase:

Mixing isododecane and isohexadecane at room temperature for 1 hour with a propeller to obtain the oily phase;

Aqueous phase:

1) . Mixing trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, benzalkonium chloride, and others like pH buffer (potassium phosphate and dipotassium phosphate) , sodium chloride and colorant like copper sulfate with water at 45℃ and stirring for 20 minutes with a propeller;

2) . Adding fragrance with Poloxer 184 and hexylene glycol to the mixture obtained in step 1) and stirring for 10 minutes with a propeller to obtain the aqueous phase.

Then, the oily phase and the aqueous phase were combined together at a weight ration of W/O=60: 40 in one PET package to obtain the biphase composition.

Evaluation of compositions

The compositions prepared were evaluated.

Mixing easiness

The test was carried out by observing the appearance of the composition tested just after being shaked upside-down gently 10 times and then rating according to the appearance.

Rate	Appearance
Good	Homogenous/fine emulsion
Acceptable	Inhomogeneous/big emulsion
Bad	inhomogeneous after strong shaking

Makeup removability

The test was carried out as follows:

1. Apply makeups on a forearm according to the following standards:

a) a 5cm line for the following water-proof products:

a water-proof mascara sold under the name Hyper Curl Volume Express from the company Maybelline,

an eye liner sold under the name Hyper Sharp Liner from the company Maybelline,

a long lasting lipstick sold under the name SUPERSTAY matte ink from the company Maybelline;

b) 0.05g a water-proof foundation sold under the name FIT ME Matte from the company Maybelline to 2 cm x 5 cm rectangle;

2. After air-drying for 15 minutes, cover the makeups with a cotton pad wet by 2g of the composition tested for 5 seconds, then wipe.

3. Count how many times of wiping needed for the makeups to be removed remove completely.

4. Rate the removability according to the times of wiping needed for the makeups to be removed remove completely according to the following standards.

Rate	The times of wiping
Very good	1-5
Good	6-10
Normal	11-15
Bad	16-20
Very Bad	20-25

Skin feeling (greasiness)

The skin feeling was evaluated by the 6 volunteers by following the same process for testing the makeup removability and rating according to the skin feeling as follows.

Interface between the oily phase and the aqueous phase

The composition tested was slightly shaked till the oily and aqueous phases were well mixed, and then the mixed composition remained standing for 24 hours, after which the interface of the two phases was observed and rated as follows. Such procedure was repeated for 5 times, then the interface of the two phases were observed and rated as follows.

Rate	Interface
Very good	No bubble, a film-like interface
Good	Almost no bubble, a film-like interface
Acceptable	Visible but small bubble, a film-like interface
Bad	A thin layer interface

Appearance of the inside wall of the container after 24 hours’ standing

The inside wall of the container containing the composition tested was observed when the whole package was standing for 24 hours and rated as follows.

The results of the evaluations were summarized in Table 2.

Table 2

D5=CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, IHD=ISOHEXADECANE, IDD=ISODODECANE.

It was found that the composition of invention formula 1 is easy to form an emulsion upon shaking and demonstrate good makeup removability.

In addition, the composition of invention formula 1 also provides a good skin finish (i.e. fresh feeling) after application.

It was found that the composition of invention formula 1 can start to separate into two phases after 1 minute’s standing, and a clear aqueous phase, a clear oily phase and the sharp interface can be observed within 24 hours after being still, even after being subjected to a 5 days’ cycle of once shaking per 24 hours, meanwhile, there is no droplets on the inside wall of containers therefor.

Claims

A biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising:

a) at least one branched alkane containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

b) at least one demixing agent of formula (I)

in which:

R represents a linear alkyl having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms,

R ¹ and R ² independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl group,

Q ^- represents a anionic counterion especially halide such as chloride;

c) at least one chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof, and

d) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide,

wherein the composition is silicone-free.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the branched alkane is selected from isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the branched alkane comprises from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises the branched alkane as the only oil.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the branched alkane is present in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the demixing agent is a mixture comprising lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, myristyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and palmityldimethylbenzylammonium chloride.
The composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the demixing agent selected from alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride of formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.005 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 0.05 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the chelating agent is selected from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) , ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) , ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG) , glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS) , 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS) , ethylenediamine-N, N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA) , N, N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic acid (HBED) , nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) , methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA) , N-2-hydroxyethyl-N, N-diacetic acid, glyceryl imino diacetic acid, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid, aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid, beta-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-onoacetic acid, chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) , ethanoldiglycine acid, and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) .
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the sequestrant is present in a content ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.005 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %and more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates having the chemical structure of formula (II) :

H- (O-CH ₂-CH ₂) a- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) b- (O-CH ₂-CH ₂) a-OH (II)

in which

a ranges from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the non-ionic surfactant selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.005 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising in the oily phase and/or the aqueous phase an additional ingredient selected from pH adjusting agents, additional surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, and thickeners.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the aqueous phase represents from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %of at least one branched alkane containing from 12 to 16 carbon atoms;

b) from 0.01 wt. %to 0.05 wt. %of at least one demixing agent of formula (I)

in which:

R represents a linear alkyl having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms,

R1 and R2 independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl group,

Q ^- represents chloride;

c) from 0.01 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %at least one chelating agent selected fromethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) , S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) , and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) , and mixtures thereof; and

d) from 0.01 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates having the chemical structure of formula (II) :

H- (O-CH ₂-CH ₂) a- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) b- (O-CH ₂-CH ₂) a-OH (II)

in which a ranges from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80,

wherein the composition is silicone-free.
A process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.