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WO2021203180A1 - Composition cosmétique capillaire et procédé de mise en forme ou de modification de la forme des cheveux - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique capillaire et procédé de mise en forme ou de modification de la forme des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021203180A1
WO2021203180A1 PCT/BR2020/050124 BR2020050124W WO2021203180A1 WO 2021203180 A1 WO2021203180 A1 WO 2021203180A1 BR 2020050124 W BR2020050124 W BR 2020050124W WO 2021203180 A1 WO2021203180 A1 WO 2021203180A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
acid
mixtures
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/BR2020/050124
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English (en)
Inventor
Érika Alegrio Jarque PETALI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to PCT/BR2020/050124 priority Critical patent/WO2021203180A1/fr
Priority to FR2006372A priority patent/FR3109087B1/fr
Publication of WO2021203180A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021203180A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present application relates to a hair cosmetic composition, a process involving applying such composition onto hair for shaping or altering the shape of the hair, for example, by straightening the hair, and the use of the hair cosmetic composition, wherein the hair cosmetic composition contains at least one reducing agent, at least one amino acid and at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant.
  • Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substrates such as hair are available commercially in various forms, for example, as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of the form, these products have to achieve and provide certain benefits and attributes such as efficaciousness, cosmeticity, desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application.
  • manufacturers of such products continuously seek to re-formulate and create new products with enhanced efficacy, while still remaining stable and safe to use.
  • manufacturers continue to test the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new product forms that would help deliver the desired attributes and properties with respect to viscosity, texture, stability and efficacy.
  • the quality and condition of hair is generally adversely affected by the action of external agents such as sunlight, wind, pollution, humidity, and chemicals in swimming pools, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, shampooing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends leading to split ends. Under such circumstances, hair can also become less manageable, more frizzy and less disciplined, and more difficult to style or shape. Hair care products are used to combat these drawbacks.
  • Conventional cleansing compositions such as shampoos, for example, which contain surfactants such as anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type surfactants, can be employed to remove the diverse types of soils typically present on hair.
  • These cleansing compositions while providing good cleansing power, may result in a less conditioned or rough feel to the hair due to, for example, the gradual removal of the natural or applied fats, lipids, or proteins contained in or at the surface of the hair.
  • washing hair with water alone can also cause the hair to become tangled, less smooth and dry.
  • Hair conditioner or hair masque (mask) products can be used on hair after it has been shampooed or rinsed in order to confer hair caring properties to hair.
  • Traditional conditioners and masques provide conditioning, smoothing, softening and visual sleekness to hair and are generally rinse-off products.
  • hair styling products for example, leave-in gels and creams which employ ingredients such as film forming polymers that impart desirable styling or shaping hold while on the hair.
  • ingredients such as film forming polymers that impart desirable styling or shaping hold while on the hair.
  • some ingredients can be easily removed from the hair, for example by rinsing or washing.
  • any cosmetic benefits to the hair from such products are generally diminished or removed once the hair is rinsed or washed.
  • alkaline composition Another type of composition that can be applied onto hair in order to change its shape and make it more manageable is an alkaline composition that is found in commercial hair relaxers or hair straighteners. These products can confer longer lasting shape or style to the hair.
  • Alkaline hair relaxing/straightening involves hydrolyzing the keratin of the hair with various alkaline agents, such as inorganic hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidine hydroxide, or organic amines.
  • Hair relaxing/straightening products that employ sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called lye-based products and products that use other alkaline agents such as lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, organic hydroxides and other non-hydroxide compounds, for example, organic amines, generally fall under the category of no-lye products. Still, it is desirable to find alternatives to the alkaline lye- and no-lye-based products and process described above which can damage the hair by weakening and/or causing dryness of the hair fibers.
  • alkaline lye- and no-lye-based products and process described above can damage the hair by weakening and/or causing dryness of the hair fibers.
  • the discovery of new compositions and processes for treating hair that have enhanced efficacy but impart less or minimal damage to hair may pose challenges to manufacturers and formulators because the incorporation of new ingredients into the compositions may negatively impacting their performance, cosmetic attributes, texture, and formulation stability.
  • the acidity/alkalinity and/or pH is an important consideration for these products.
  • New processes for treating and changing the shape of hair may also impact the performance of the compositions, processing times and quality of use.
  • manufacturers of such products continuously test the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new product forms and seek to re-formulate and create new products with the desired qualities, while still remaining stable and safe to use.
  • the present invention is directed to a hair cosmetic composition, wherein the composition comprises:
  • At least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (Ce- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts; wherein the pH of the hair cosmetic composition is less than 7.
  • the present invention is also directed to processes for treating the hair involving the application of the above-described hair cosmetic composition onto hair and the use of said composition for straightening and/or altering the shape of the hair.
  • the present hair cosmetic compositions effectively alter the shape or configuration of the hair and provide manageability properties to hair, including one or more of conditioning; straightening effects; frizz control; volume reduction or volume control; styling or re-shaping/shaping effects; curl reduction effects while having improvement or retention of curl definition; texlaxing effects; relaxing effects; humidity resistance; cosmeticity to the feel; smooth feel; natural feel; less or reduced rough ends; and/or improvement of the appearance and integrity of hair.
  • At least one means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • Keratinous substrates as used herein, includes, but is not limited to keratin fibers such as hair and/or scalp on the human head.
  • Constanting means imparting to one or more hair fibers at least one property chosen from combability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness.
  • the state of conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in), and consumer perception.
  • treat refers to the application of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair.
  • the term ‘treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
  • a “rinse-off” product refers to a composition such as a hair cosmetic composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto the keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or styling said keratinous substrate. At least a portion of the hair cosmetic composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing.
  • a “leave-on” product refers to a composition such as a hair cosmetic composition that is applied onto hair and left to remain on the hair while drying and/or styling the hair.
  • stable means that the hair cosmetic composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.
  • Volatile as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about
  • Non-volatile as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100 Q C.
  • Reducing agent means an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of the hair.
  • Active material as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.
  • Substituted means comprising one or more substituents.
  • substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
  • the substituent(s) may be further substituted.
  • Polymers include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.
  • compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1-5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
  • the present invention is directed to a hair cosmetic composition, wherein the composition comprises:
  • At least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (Ce- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.
  • the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition
  • a hair cosmetic composition comprising:
  • amino acid selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine;
  • amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts; wherein the pH of the hair cosmetic composition is 3.5 to 4.5; wherein the percentages amounts are based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
  • the hair cosmetic composition is silicone free or essentially free of silicone.
  • the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones.
  • the compositions include less than about 3 wt.%, 2 wt.%, 1 wt.%, or 0.5 wt.% of silicones, or preferably, do not contain silicones.
  • the compositions comprise silicones.
  • Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine- functionalized silicones (e.g., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, etc.
  • the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain a raw material that is commercially available in a blend containing a silicone compound.
  • the present invention is also directed to processes for treating the hair involving the application of the above-described hair cosmetic composition onto hair and the use of said composition for straightening and/or altering the shape of the hair
  • the present invention is also directed to processes for treating the hair involving the application of the above-described hair cosmetic composition onto hair that has been previously chemically treating the hair, for example, after bleaching the hair.
  • Treatment of the hair with the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure can be repeated at regular intervals over a period of time.
  • the present invention relates to a process for altering the shape and the color of the hair, the process comprising the steps of: a) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; b) rinsing the hair; c) applying the hair cosmetic composition at least once onto the hair; d) pausing for a period of time such as for about 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, or 30 minutes or for a period of time ranging from about 5 minutes up to about 60 minutes; e) blow drying (up to 100% dried) f) applying a flat iron to the hair (set at a temperature of up to about
  • the steps c) to g) can be repeated in a period of several weeks.
  • the period of several weeks is 2 weeks or 15 days.
  • the hair cosmetic composition in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair straightening composition.
  • said hair straightening composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair straightening.
  • the hair cosmetic composition in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair curl reducing composition.
  • said hair curl reducing composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair curl reduction such as hair straightening or hair texlaxing or hair curl stretching.
  • compositions in the above-described process are stable over time, that is, they do not exhibit phase separation and they can be stored for several months without modification and with very little change or fluctuation in the viscosity and/or rheology and pH of the hair cosmetic composition.
  • hair that has been chemically treated (such as bleached hair) followed by treatment with the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention presented better fiber integrity as compared to other treatments.
  • the hair cosmetic composition of the invention was stable over time and had a smooth, non- drip, and homogenous texture/consistency and effectively shaped or straightened hair.
  • the non-drip consistency of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention is desirable because it helps the hair cosmetic compositions to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time as to achieve the desired shape of the hair or desired degree of straightening or reduction of the curl of the hair.
  • the reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3- mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine and salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amino acid is selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, amino acid derivatives such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-
  • the at least one thiol-based reducing agent is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight, even more preferably from about 3% to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
  • the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention further comprise at least one neutralizing agent selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
  • at least one neutralizing agent selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropano
  • the neutralizing agent is at least one amino acid.
  • the amino acid of the present invention such as arginine or lysine or other amino acid can be used as the neutralizing agent.
  • the pH of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention ranges from about pH 3 to about 7, or from about pH 3 to about 6, or from about pH 3 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 3 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 3.5 to about 4.5, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
  • hair cosmetic compositions of the of the present invention further comprise at least one additional component selected from organic solvents, plasticizers, opacifiers, plant/vegetable oils, hydrocarbons, lower alkanes, fragrance, preservatives, pH adjusters, plant extracts, salts, vitamins, sunscreens, colorants, and mixtures thereof.
  • additional component selected from organic solvents, plasticizers, opacifiers, plant/vegetable oils, hydrocarbons, lower alkanes, fragrance, preservatives, pH adjusters, plant extracts, salts, vitamins, sunscreens, colorants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cleansing or shampoo composition.
  • the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is a leave-on hair composition. In one embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is a leave-on or rinse-off hair mask composition.
  • the hair cosmetic compositions described above may be used on any type of hair, for example, light or dark hair, straight or curly, natural hair, or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.
  • the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is applied on curly, embrittled, and/or damaged hair.
  • the present invention employs at least one reducing agent selected from thiol reducing agents.
  • Thiol reducing agents which can be used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention include thiol reducing agents selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 -mercaptopropionic acid, thio diglyco I, 2- mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the reducing agent or agents used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention are thiol reducing agents, more particularly thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid or their salts thereof, especially alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salts, cysteine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention is chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and mixtures thereof
  • the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention is thiolactic acid, it salts, and mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention includes thiolactic acid.
  • the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention is thioglycolic acid.
  • the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention comprises thiolactic acid and thiolgycolic acid.
  • the at least one reducing agent can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 3.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the at least one reducing agent may be present in an amount of from about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1 ,6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, or 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the amino acids of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, amino acid derivatives such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one amino acid is chosen from arginine, serine, cysteine, glutamic acid, an amino acid derivative such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one amino acid includes arginine. According to one embodiment, the at least one amino acid is arginine.
  • the at least one amino acid may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 6.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 4% by weight, or even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
  • the at least one amino acid may be present in an amount of from about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1,6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, or 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric surfactants of the present invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra- COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group, Rb represents a b-hydroxyethyl group,
  • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group
  • B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2- COOZ’, CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,
  • Y' representing COOH, COOZ’, CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z’
  • m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group
  • Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola-mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa-nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino- 2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,
  • an alkali or alkaline-earth metal such as sodium, potassium or magnesium
  • an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola-mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa-nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1
  • Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably pre-sent in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
  • compositions corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiace-tate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroam-phodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodi-propionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate
  • the sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.
  • Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"- C(0)0H preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;
  • - Y represents the group -C(0)0H, -C(0)0Z”, -CH2-CH(0H)-S0 3 H or the group CH2-CH(0H)-S03-Z”, with Z” representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
  • - Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and - n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from
  • amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (Cs-
  • C2o)alkylbetaines (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, (Cs-
  • the at least one amphoteric surfactant of the present invention is chosen from (C8-C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (Cs-
  • C2o)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCI names coco-betaine, (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCI name cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amphoteric surfactant is coco-betaine.
  • the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from coco-betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of amphoteric surfactants ranges from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.8% to about 6% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more amino silicones.
  • amino silicone is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • amino silicone that may be used in the scope of the invention, the following can be cited: a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500 000; b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B): R'aG3-a-Si(0SiG2)n-(0SiGbR'2-b)m-0-SiG3-a-R'a (B) in which:
  • - G which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or C-i-Cs alkyl group, for example methyl, or C-i-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy, - a, which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;
  • - b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ;
  • - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • - R' which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having formula -CqH2ql_ in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
  • R which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon -based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical;
  • Q denotes a linear or branched Crh r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4;
  • A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • a group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone” having formula (C): in which n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000000, more particularly from 3500 to 200 000. in which:
  • - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • R1, R2 which are different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denotes an alkoxy radical.
  • the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 200000, even more particularly 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50000.
  • Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their hair cosmetic composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different than formulae (D) or (E).
  • a product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
  • a product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
  • the oil-in- water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
  • the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres.
  • microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometres (limits included) and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometres (limits included).
  • the microemulsions of amino silicone having formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
  • a preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200000.
  • a silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning. c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H): in which:
  • R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
  • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a Ci- C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C-i-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);
  • - r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
  • R7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
  • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a Ci- C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C-i-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • R8 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;
  • X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);
  • - r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;
  • R1 , R2, R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, denote a Ci- C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group;
  • R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g; f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
  • Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:
  • - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
  • - b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between from 5 and 30;
  • - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000, more particularly from 10 to
  • - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl
  • R which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -
  • CH2CH2CH20CH(0H)CH2- radical preferentially R denotes a CH2CH2CH 0CH(0H)CH2- radical;
  • R' which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -
  • R' denotes -CH(CH 3 )-CH -.
  • the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
  • the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0,05 and 0,2.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably comprised between 5000 and 1 000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
  • - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;
  • - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms
  • A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made especially of the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH CH(CH3)CH2-.
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
  • the silicone is of formula (K) with:
  • - x ranging from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000;
  • A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH CH(CH3)CH2-; and
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, being linear, saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
  • a preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may be made especially of the silicone sold under the name
  • the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (F).
  • a preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.
  • the amino silicone is in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 8% by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.4% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
  • the hair cosmetic composition is silicone free or essentially free of silicones.
  • the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain a raw material that is commercially available in a blend containing a silicone compound.
  • the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, fatty acid alkanolamides, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, fatty acid alkanolamides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols correspond to linear, branched saturated/un saturated fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 60 carbon atoms and preferably correspond to the formula R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, or from 10 to 50 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 10 to 22 carbon atoms optionally comprising one or more OH groups.
  • the saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched and can be in liquid form. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • the unsaturated fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected, for example, from octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols of the invention may be in solid form and may be non- oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols may be constituents of animal or plant waxes.
  • the solid fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
  • a commercial product is cetearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, commercially available under the trade name of LANETTE-0 from the company BASF.
  • Cetyl alcohol may also be commercially available under the tradename of LANETTE 16 from the company BASF.
  • the solid fatty alcohols of the present invention may be chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • solid fatty alcohol of the present invention include branched solid fatty alcohols chosen from 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-octadecanol and 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol comprises cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Alkoxylated fatty alcohols as used herein means a compound having at least one fatty portion (8 carbon atoms or more) and at least one alkoxylated portion (-(CH2)nO-, where n is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably 2 to 3). According to particularly preferred embodiments, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention can be used as non-ionic surfactants, if desired.
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention preferably have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value from 1-20, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, with HLB values ranging from 1 to 5 (particularly 3 to 5) or from 15-20 (particularly 16 to 18) being most preferred.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is chosen from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, propoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohol can be chosen from di-alkyl, tri- alkyl- and combinations of di-alkyl and tri-alkyl substituted ethoxylated polymers. They can also be chosen from mono-alkyl, di-alkyl, tri-alkyl, tetra-alkyl substituted alkyl ethoxylated polymers and all combinations thereof.
  • the alkyl group can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear and contain a number of carbon atoms preferably from about 12 carbon atoms to about 50 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, for example, 20 to 40 carbon atoms, 22 to 24 carbon atoms, 30 to 50 carbon atoms, and 40 to 60 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty portion contains a mixture of compounds of varying carbon atoms such as, for example, C20-C40 compounds, C22-C24 compounds, C30-C50 compounds, and C40- C60 compounds.
  • the alkoxylated portion of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention contain 2 or more alkoxylation units, preferably from 10 to 200 alkoxylation units, preferably from 20 to 150 alkoxylation units, and preferably from 25 to 100 alkoxylation units, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the alkoxylation units contain 2 carbon atoms (ethoxylation units) and/or 3 carbon atoms (propoxylation units).
  • the amount of alkoxylation can also be determined by the percent by weight of the alkoxylated portion with respect to the total weight of the compound. Suitable weight percentages of the alkoxylated portion with respect to the total weight of the compound include, but are not limited to, 10 percent to 95 percent, preferably 20 percent to 90 percent, including all ranges and subranges therebetween with 75 percent to 90 percent (particularly 80 percent to 90 percent) or 20 percent to 50 percent being preferred.
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention have a number average molecular weight (Mn) greater than 500, preferably from 500 to 5,000, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example, Mn of 500 to 1250 or an Mn of 2,000 to 5,000.
  • Mn number average molecular weight
  • alkoxylated fatty alcohols include: laureth-3, laureth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, laureth ⁇ 23, ceteth-10, steareth-10, steareth-20 steareth-2, steareth-100, beheneth-5, beheneth-5, beheneth-10, oleth-10, Pareth alcohols, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11-15 pareth-7, PPG-5 ceteth-20, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, glycereth-26 (PEG-26 Glyceryl Ether), PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable alkyl(ether)phosphates include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters corresponding to a mono-ester of formula (I) and salts thereof:
  • R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; u, v and w, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 60; x, y and z, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 13;
  • R' represents hydrogen, alkyl, the sum of x+y+z being 0.
  • the numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. Whereas, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on a macroscopic level they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.
  • R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a linear or branched, acyclic C6-40 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C1-40 alkyl phenyl group, more particularly a C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-18 alkyl phenyl group, more preferably a C12-18 alkyl group or alkenyl group or a C6-16 alkyl phenyl group; u, v, w, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from 3 to 17 and most preferably a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a number from 0 to 8.
  • R should have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in the present invention are PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS SG(R)), Oleth-3 phosphate (CRODAFOS N3 acid), Oleth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS N10 acid), and a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate (CRODAFOS CES) all sold by Croda.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate esters are Cetyl phosphate (Flostaphat CC 100), Stearyl phosphate (Flostaphat CS 120) from Clariant.
  • the alkyl(ether)phosphates are chosen from PPG- 5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl(poly)glucoside (alkylpolyglycoside) is represented especially by the following general formula:
  • R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
  • - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
  • alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
  • R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e., the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -6 or 1- 4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.
  • Cs/Ci6 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1 ,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
  • the alkylpolyglucoside is chosen from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty acid alkanolamides Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by reacting an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid.
  • Such surfactants can be chosen from mono- alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C6-C36 fatty acids, and preferably from mono- alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C8-C30 fatty acids or of C8-C24 fatty acids, and may have a C2-3 hydroxyalkyl group.
  • Examples thereof include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soya fatty acids diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, and mixtures thereof.
  • oleic acid diethanolamide oleic acid monoisopropanolamide
  • myristic acid monoethanolamide soya fatty acids diethanolamide
  • the fatty acid alkanolaminde is chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoley- ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate,
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, or even more preferably from about 2% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and sub ranges there between.
  • the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.
  • Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • Quaternary ammonium salts useful in the invention include, for example:
  • the groups R8 to R11 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens;
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6)polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkyl(C2-C6)alkylamido, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or secondly, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride, which is sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
  • R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
  • R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product of this kind is sold for example under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo.
  • R16 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a);
  • R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat® CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat® CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
  • R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups;
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from
  • X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon group, it may be long and may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is an R29 hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived
  • the anion X- is more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialky
  • the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function.
  • the cationic surfactants are chosen from cetrimonim chloride (cetyltrimethylammonium salt), behentrimonim chloride (behenyltrimethylammonium salt), behentrimonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention comprise the cationic surfactant in an amount ranging from about 1 to about 16 wt.%, preferably, 1.5 to about 12 wt.%, more preferably about 2 to about 10 wt.%, and even more preferably about 2 to about 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
  • the hair cosmetic compositions according to the present disclosure may further comprise at least one thickening agent.
  • Thickening agents are generally used to modify the viscosity and/or rheology of the hair cosmetic composition.
  • the term "thickening agent” means compounds which, by their presence, increase the viscosity of the hair cosmetic composition into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps, such as by at least 50 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
  • the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer, or the like.
  • the thickening agent may be referred to interchangeably herein as thickener or rheology modifier.
  • Thickening agents are also sometimes referred to as gellifying agents and/or viscosity modifying agents.
  • the thickening agent may be chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics, such as polymers of natural origin and synthetic polymers, for example, nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphiphilic, or amphoteric polymers, and other known rheology modifiers, such as cellulose-based thickeners.
  • the thickening agents can be an anionic thickening agent.
  • the anionic thickening agents may be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners. As used herein, the term “hydrophilic thickener” is meant to indicate that the thickening agent is soluble or dispersible in water.
  • hydrophilic thickeners include homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Versicol F® or Versicol K® by the company Allied Colloid, or under the tradename Ultrahold 8® by the company Ciba-Geigy; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, methylacrylate and dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohols such as methylacrylate and dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3) sold under the tradename Viscophobe® DB 1000 from The Dow Chemical Company, those sold under the tradenames Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian, or under the tradename Hispajel by the company Hispan
  • copolymers is intended to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, such as, for example, terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.
  • the chemical structure of the copolymers comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit.
  • hydrophobic unit or “hydrophobic unit” is understood to mean a radical possessing a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain which comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, for example from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, as a further example from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and as yet a further example from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrophilic thickener may be chosen from anionic associative polymers.
  • associative polymer is intended to mean any polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.
  • the associative polymers may be chosen from polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit; polymers in which the hydrophilic unit is constituted of an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, such as a vinylcarboxylic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or mixtures thereof; and polymers in which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:
  • CM2 C(R’)CH 2 OBnR (I) in which R’ is chosen from H or CH3, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R is a hydrocarbon- based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, or cycloalkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Exemplary and non-limiting polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479, incorporated by reference herein.
  • the associative anionic polymer may be chosen from anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C10 C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
  • the at least one thickening agent is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids possessing a,b-ethylenically unsaturated groups or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) possessing ethylenically unsaturated groups and comprising a hydrophobic group.
  • Such copolymers may exhibit emulsifying properties.
  • copolymers is intended to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, such as, for example, terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.
  • the chemical structure of the copolymers comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit.
  • hydrophobic unit or “hydrophobic unit” is understood to mean a radical possessing a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain which comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, for example from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, as a further example from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and as yet a further example from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the thickening copolymer may be chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:
  • CH CH(R1)C00H (II) wherein R1 is chosen from H, Chb, or C2H5, providing acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or ethacrylic acid monomers, and
  • CH2 CH(R 2 )COOR3 (III) wherein R2 is chosen from H, CH3, or C2H5, providing acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units, and R3 denotes a C10 C30 alkyl radical, such as a C12 C22 alkyl radical.
  • the (C10 C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids may be chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate or dodecyl methacrylate, or mixtures thereof.
  • the crosslinked thickening polymer may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: (1) acrylic acid,
  • R2 is chosen from H or CH3
  • R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms
  • a crosslinking agent which is a known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • the crosslinked thickening polymer may comprise from about 60 % to about 95 % by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from about 4 % to about 40 % by weight of C10 C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and from about 0 % to about 6 % by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer.
  • the crosslinked thickening polymer may comprise from about 96 % to about 98 % by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from about 1 % to about 4 % by weight of C10 C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and from about 0.1 % to 0.6 % by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above.
  • the crosslinked thickening polymer may be chosen from acrylate/Cio C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/Cio-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold under the tradenames PemulenTM TR1, PemulenTM TR2, Carbopol® 1382 and Carbopol® EDT 2020 by the company Lubrizol.
  • acrylate/Cio C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers INCCI name: Acrylates/Cio-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  • the anionic thickening agent may also be known as rheology modifiers such as acrylate- or acrylic-based polymers, carbomers, crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropane-sulfonic acid, and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and/or (Ci-C6)alkyl esters.
  • rheology modifiers such as acrylate- or acrylic-based polymers, carbomers, crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropane-sulfonic acid, and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and/or (Ci-C6)alkyl esters.
  • the anionic thickening agent is chosen from polyacrylate-3, commercially known under the trade name of Viscophobe DB-100 and sold by The Dow Chemical Company, carbomers, commercially known under the trade name of Carbopol polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, commercially known the trade names of Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer such as Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer by and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, AMP- acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, commercially known under the trade name of Fixate G-100 polymer and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc., Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as SepimaxTM Zen by the company Seppic, and a crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, also known
  • the thickening agents may be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, for example cellulose polymers and gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as those sold under the tradename Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Reten® by Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the tradename Hydagen F® by the company Henkel, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) such as those sold under the tradename Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) by the company Clariant, crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide
  • a water-in-oil emulsion such as those sold under the tradename SepigelTM 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the tradename SimugelTM 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of PemulenTM type, associative polymers, for instance PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer such those as sold under the tradename ACULYNTM 46 by the company Rohm & Flaas, steareth-100/PEG-136/FIDI copolymer such as those sold under the tradename Rheolate® FX 1100 by the company Elementis, and mixtures thereof.
  • SepigelTM 305 C13-14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7
  • the hydrophilic thickener may be chosen from associative polymers.
  • associative polymer is intended to mean any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.
  • amphiphilic polymer means a polymer composed of hydrophilic and hydrophobic parts.
  • the associative polymers may be anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric.
  • the associative polymers may be chosen from polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit; polymers in which the hydrophilic unit is constituted of an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, such as a vinylcarboxylic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or mixtures thereof; and polymers in which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:
  • CM2 C(R’)CH 2 OBnR (I) in which R’ is chosen from FI or CFb, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R is a hydrocarbon- based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, or cycloalkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Exemplary and non-limiting polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479, incorporated by reference herein.
  • the associative cationic polymer may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing amine side groups.
  • the non-ionic associative polymer may be chosen from celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethyl celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, e.g.
  • Associative polyurethanes may also be chosen in various embodiments.
  • “associative polyurethanes” are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature, and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
  • Associative polyurethanes comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from Ce to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon -based chains optionally being pendent chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic block. For example, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be provided.
  • the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the associative polyurethanes may be arranged in triblock or multiblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example, triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and within the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer).
  • These polymers may also be graft polymers or starburst polymers.
  • the associative polyurethanes may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
  • associative polymers of the polyurethane polyether type include the polymer Ci6-OE120-Ci6 from Servo Delden (under the tradename SER AD FX1100), which is a molecule containing a urethane function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300, OE being an oxyethylene unit; Nuvis® FX 1100 (European and US INCI name "Steareth- 100/PEG-136/FIMDI Copolymer" sold by the company Elementis Specialties); Acrysol RM 184® (sold by the company Rohm and Flaas); Elfacos® T210® (C12-C14 alkyl chain); Elfacos® T212® (C18 alkyl chain) sold by the company Akzo; Rheolate® 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox; RFIEOLATE® 208 or 204, or RFIEOLATE® FX1100 sold by
  • solutions or dispersions of these polymers may be chosen.
  • polymers include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035, and SER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox.
  • Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox Further examples include the products AculynTM 46, DW 1206F, and DW 1206J, Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Rohm & Flaas, and Borchi® Gel LW 44 from the company Borchers.
  • the thickening agent may be chosen from nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the amide type, for example, the polyacrylamide products sold under the tradenames Cyanamer® P250 by the company CYTEC.
  • the thickening agent chosen from polymers of natural origin may include thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit, for instance nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups; biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan gum (also known as sclerotium gum) or xanthan gum; gums derived from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar gum, carob gum, ceratonia siliqua gum or cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum; pectins; alginates; starches; hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkylcelluloses; or carboxy(Ci-C6)alkylcelluloses.
  • biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan gum (also known as sclerotium gum)
  • the nonionic, unmodified guar gums may be chosen from Guargel D/15 sold by the company Noveon, Vidogum GH 175 sold by the company Unipectine, Meypro-Guar 50 sold by the company Meyhall, or Jaguar® C sold by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the nonionic modified guar gums may be chosen from Jaguar® HP8, HP60, HP120, DC 293 and HP 105 sold by the companies Meyhall and Rhodia Chimie or GalactasolTM 4H4FD2 sold by the company Ashland.
  • the thickening agents may be chosen from scleroglucans, for example, ActigumTM CS from Sanofi Bio Industries; Amigel® sold by the company Alban Muller International; xanthan gums, for instance Keltrol®, Keltrol® T, Keltrol® Tf, Keltrol® Bt, Keltrol® Rd, and Keltrol® Cg sold by the company CP Kelco, Rhodicare® S and Rhodicare® H sold by the company Rhodia
  • scleroglucans for example, ActigumTM CS from Sanofi Bio Industries
  • Amigel® sold by the company Alban Muller International
  • xanthan gums for instance Keltrol®, Keltrol® T, Keltrol® Tf, Keltrol® Bt, Keltrol® Rd, and Keltrol® Cg sold by the company CP Kelco, Rhodicare® S and Rhodicare® H sold by the company Rhodia
  • HEC30000A and Polymer PCG10 sold by the company Amerchol, NatrosolTM 250HHR, 250MR, 250M, 250HHXR, 250HHX, 250HR, and 250 HX, sold by the company Hercules, or Tylose® H1000 sold by the company Hoechst; hydroxypropylcelluloses, for instance KlucelTM EF, H, LHF, MF, and G, sold by the company Ashland; carboxymethylcelluloses, for instance Blanose® 7M8/SF, refined 7M, 7LF, 7MF, 9M31 F, 12M31XP, 12M31 P, 9M31XF, 7H, 7M31, and 7H3SXF, sold by the company Ashland, Aquasorb® A500 sold by the company Hercules, Ambergum® 1221 sold by the company Hercules, Cellogen® HP810A and HP6HS9 sold by the company Montello and Primellose® sold by the company Avebe.
  • hydroxypropylcelluloses for instance Klucel
  • the modified nonionic guar gums may be modified, for example, with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • Such hydroxyalkyl groups may be chosen from hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums may be prepared by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the hydroxyalkylation ratio which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed to the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum, may in certain embodiments range from about 0.4 to about 1.2.
  • nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups
  • examples of nonionic guar gums include those sold under the tradenames Jaguar® HP8, Jaguar® HP60, Jaguar® HP120, Jaguar® DC 293, and Jaguar® HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and under the tradename GalactasolTM 4H4FD2 by the company Ashland.
  • the guar gum may be chosen from those modified with a quaternary ammonium group, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, also sold under the tradename Jaguar® C-13S by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • a quaternary ammonium group such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, also sold under the tradename Jaguar® C-13S by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the ceulloses may be chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses, such as those sold under the tradenames KlucelTM EF, KlucelTM H, KlucelTM LHF, KlucelTM MF, KlucelTM G, by the company Ashland and under the tradename CellosizeTM PCG-10 by the company Amerchol.
  • non-limiting thickening polysaccharides may be chosen from glucans; modified or unmodified starches such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as golden pea, or tubers such as potato or cassava; amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses or derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids or pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gums arabic, gums tragacanth, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as
  • the thickening agent may be chosen from silicas or hydrophobic silicas, such as those described in EP-A-898960, incorporated by reference herein.
  • silicas include those sold under the tradename Aerosil® R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL® TS-530, CAB-O-SIL® TS-610, CAB-O-SIL® TS-720 by the company Cabot, or Aerosil® R972 and Aerosil® R974 by the company Degussa; clays, such as montmorillonite; modified clays such as the bentones, for example, stearalkonium hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite; or polysaccharide alkyl ethers, optionally with the alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, for example from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, such as those described in document EP-
  • an anionic thickening agent when used, it is generally neutralized before being included in, or as it is added to the hair cosmetic compositions of the disclosure.
  • Such an anionic thickening agent may be neutralized by employing traditional neutralizing agents such as alkanolamines, for example, monoethanolamine and diethanolamine; aminomethyl propanol; basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine; or ammonium compounds and their salts.
  • the anionic thickening agent may also be neutralized by a latex polyurethane polymer having at least one free amino group.
  • the at least one thickening agent is selected from cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas, and mixtures thereof.
  • the thickening agent in the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises a starch derivative chosen from the compounds of the following formulae:
  • St-0 represents a starch molecule
  • R which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R’ which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,
  • M which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K or Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the starch molecules may be derived from any plant sources of starch such as, in particular, corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat.
  • the starch hydrolysates mentioned above may also be used.
  • the starch is preferably derived from potato.
  • starches of formula (I) or (II) are used in particular.
  • Starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid i.e. the starches of formula (I) or (II) in which R, R’ and R” represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2, are used more preferentially.
  • a preferred starch derivative is known under the INCI name potato starch modified sold under the tradename STRUCTURE® SOLANACE by AkzoNobel.
  • the starch derivative may be present in the hair cosmetic compositions of the invention in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, and most preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
  • the at least one thickening agent is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (also known as HPMC), cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gums, acrylate/Cio C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers, carbomers, polyacrylates, potato starch modified, and mixtures thereof.
  • HEC hydroxyethylcellulose
  • HPC hydroxypropylcellulose
  • HPC hydroxybutylcellulose
  • hydroxyethylmethylcellulose also known as methyl hydroxyethylcellulose
  • HPMC hydroxypropylmethylcellulose
  • cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyl guar gums
  • the at least one thickening agent is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, potato starch modified and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one thickening agent is selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent comprises xanthan gum and sclerotium gum.
  • the at least one thickening agent including xanthan gum in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent including sclerotium gum in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
  • the at least one thickening agent is present in a total amount of from about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of the at least one thickening agent is about 0.05 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 1 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1.5 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 1 .4 wt.%, about 0.25 wt.% to about 1.3 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 1.0 wt.%, or about 0.3 to about 0.8 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween
  • the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one neutralizing agent wherein the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof,
  • Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched C-i-Cs alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.
  • Organic amines may also be selected cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
  • Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1 -C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.
  • alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1 -C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morph
  • monoethanolamine also known as monoethanolamine or MEA
  • diethanolamine triethanolamine
  • monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
  • N-dimethylaminoethanolamine 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol
  • triisopropanolamine 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2- propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (aminomethyl propanol), and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
  • the organic amines are chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type.
  • histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1 ,2,4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amines are chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
  • Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present disclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.
  • the organic amines are chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
  • Organic amines of this type that may be used in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4- guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
  • alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that may be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their derivatives.
  • Neutralizing agents may also be chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.
  • the at least one amino acid of the present disclosure may serve as the neutralizing agent in the compositions of the present disclosure.
  • the amino acids that may be used may be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions.
  • the amino acids may be in their neutral or ionic form.
  • amino acids may be chosen from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
  • Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, ornithine, citrulline, and valine.
  • the at least one amino acid of the present disclosure includes one or more of arginine, serine, cysteine, glutamic acid and derivatives of amino acids such as glutaric acid which also serve as the neutralizing agent in the hair cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure.
  • the at least neutralizing agent may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, more preferably from
  • the hair cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise any auxiliary ingredient usually used in the field under consideration, selected, for example, from conditioning agents, natural and synthetic oils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, salts, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof. It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the hair cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.
  • compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one chelating agent.
  • Preferred ranges of chelating agent are from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight of each composition.
  • Preferred chelating agents are EDTA, HEDTA, and sodium or potassium salts, and mixtures, thereof.
  • the pH of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention may range from less than 7, or from about pH 3 to about 7, or from about pH 3 to about 6, or from about pH 3 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 3 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 3.5 to about 4.5, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
  • the desired pH may be obtained by using one or more of the neutralizing agents described above.
  • the hair cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise water.
  • the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais- les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from EauxBonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
  • Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such
  • the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 65% to about 95% by weight, and most preferably from about 70% to about 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
  • the process for altering the shape and the color of the hair with the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises the steps of: a) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; b) rinsing the hair; c) applying the hair shaping or altering composition at least once onto the hair; d) pausing for a period of time such as from about 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, or 30 minutes; e) drying (up to 100% dried), while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; f) applying a flat iron to the hair, preferably set to a temperature ranging from about 100°C to about 250°C or from about 110°C to about 230°C or from about 110°C to about 210°C or from about 120°C to about 200°C or from about 150°C to about 190°C, or from about 190°C to about 230°C, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, or at a temperature of about 230°C or about 225°C or about 220°C or about 210°C or
  • the steps c) to g) can be repeated in a period of several weeks.
  • the period of several weeks is about 2 weeks or 15 days or about 2.5 weeks, or about 3 weeks.
  • the period of several weeks is 2 weeks or 15 days.
  • the smoothing action may be conducted by brushing or combing or passing the fingers through the hair.
  • Drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature up to about 200 Q C may be accomplished by drying the hair with blow dryer device or using other heat sources such as a flat iron, a hair dryer, a heat lamp, a heat wand, or other similar devices.
  • the flat iron may be employed at a temperature of about 100 Q C, or ranging from about 100°C to about 250°C or from about 110°C to about 230°C or from about 110°C to about 210°C or from about 120°C to about 200°C or from about 150°C to about 190°C, or from about 190°C to about 230°C, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, or at a temperature of about 230°C or about 225°C or about 220°C or about 210°C or about 200°C or about 190°C or about 180°C or about 150°C or about 100°C and preferably at about 230°C.
  • the flat iron is passed over the hair at least 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 times or more, for example, up to 20, 30, 40, 50, 75, or 100 times.
  • the neutralizing composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 1 hour; about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or about 10 minutes.
  • the hair treatment composition can be applied onto the hair using an applicator device or with the hands or gloved hands or with the fingers.
  • a suitable applicator device is an applicator brush or applicator comb or applicator spatula or a dispenser or applicator tip attached to the container holding the composition.
  • the method/process in accordance with the present disclosure may be followed by or be preceded by the use of rinse-off compositions for cleansing and/or conditioning hair, such as a shampoo or conditioner.
  • the cosmetic effects imparted by the hair cosmetic compositions and accompanying methods of treating the hair of the present disclosure may be evaluated by visually assessing the appearance of the hair after processing the hair according to the methods of the disclosure. Another type of evaluation can also involve sensorial evaluations of the hair.
  • compositions according to the present invention are as Ex. 2 to 10.
  • the ingredient amounts in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition/formula.
  • the volunteers were 12 women, with bleached hair /medium to high degree of damage.
  • the formulas and bleach treatment were applied on 3 separate swatches or bundles of hair from root to end that were selected from the middle back part of the head of each volunteer.
  • a hair swatch that was not treated with any formula (only with bleach) was used as a control.
  • the bleaching hair treatment protocol (1 st and 4 th visits) were comprised by:
  • the TLA hair treatment protocol (2 nd and 3 rd visits) were comprised by: a) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; b) rinsing the hair; c) applying the hair straightening composition at least once onto the hair; d) pausing for about 30 minutes; e) blow drying (100% dried) f) applying a flat iron to the hair (210°C - 230°C); g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair; h) rinsing the hair.
  • the observed results during the test are as follows:
  • compositions with lower amounts of TLA presented lower damaged starting from the roots, when compared with compositions comprising greater amounts of TLA (Ex. 1).
  • strain and deformation upon breakage s breakage and e breakage: strain and deformation upon breakage of the hair (the higher the strain, the more the hair is "resistant” to breakage).
  • the equipments used were the Dia- stron extensometer, MTT type model, the Fibre cross-section measurement device, and the Dia-Stron FDAS765.
  • the tensile test were carried out in dry or damp conditions.
  • Dry tensile test Measurements are carried out in a humidity controlled environment either in a regulated glove box or air-conditioned room. The conditions generally applied are approximately 24°C - 50%RH (they can be adjusted according to test requirements). The specimens to be analyzed must be kept in stable conditions at least overnight before carrying out the measurements.
  • Damp tensile test Measurements are carried out in water. The specimens are therefore immersed in distilled water at least half an hour prior to measurement and during measurement. For this test, the humidity is not a factor.
  • composition of Ex. 2 composition showed a lower impact in the integrity of the hair fibers compared to the composition of Ex. 1.
  • compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
  • any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1-5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • the expression “at least one” is interchangeable with the expression “one or more” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • active material as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.
  • Cosmetically acceptable means that the item in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
  • a “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
  • hair care or “hair cosmetic” are interchangeable with the term “hair treatment” for purposes of the instant disclosure.
  • a “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.
  • the term “a mixture thereof” also relates to “mixtures thereof.”
  • the term “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
  • a salt thereof also relates to “salts thereof.”
  • the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of
  • A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A,
  • salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
  • compositions (nanoemulsions) of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap.
  • an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component.
  • a fatty acid may be characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve as only the nonionic surfactant or as only the fatty compound (the single fatty acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty compound).

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Abstract

La présente demande se rapporte à une composition cosmétique capillaire, à un procédé consistant à appliquer la composition cosmétique capillaire sur les cheveux en vue de la mise en forme ou de la modification de la forme des cheveux, par exemple, par lissage des cheveux, et de l'utilisation de la composition cosmétique capillaire, la composition contenant au moins un agent réducteur, au moins un acide aminé et au moins un tensioactif amphotère ou amphiphile, le pH de la composition étant inférieur à 7.
PCT/BR2020/050124 2020-04-09 2020-04-09 Composition cosmétique capillaire et procédé de mise en forme ou de modification de la forme des cheveux Ceased WO2021203180A1 (fr)

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PCT/BR2020/050124 WO2021203180A1 (fr) 2020-04-09 2020-04-09 Composition cosmétique capillaire et procédé de mise en forme ou de modification de la forme des cheveux
FR2006372A FR3109087B1 (fr) 2020-04-09 2020-06-18 Composition cosmetique pour cheveux et processus pour mettre en forme ou modifier la forme des cheveux

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Cited By (2)

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WO2024137598A1 (fr) * 2022-12-19 2024-06-27 L'oreal Compositions et procédés pour la décoloration des cheveux
FR3145483A1 (fr) * 2023-02-08 2024-08-09 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un acide aminé, au moins un polyuréthane associatif, au moins un polysaccharide particulier et au moins une silicone aminée

Families Citing this family (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3146404A1 (fr) * 2023-03-08 2024-09-13 L'oreal COMPOSITIONS ET PROCÉDÉS POUR éliminer la couleur des cheveux

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WO2016076437A1 (fr) * 2014-11-11 2016-05-19 L'oreal Composition pour fibres de kératine
WO2016154701A1 (fr) * 2015-04-02 2016-10-06 L'oreal Composition et procédé de traitement des cheveux
KR20200023871A (ko) * 2018-08-27 2020-03-06 이경희 L-아르기닌을 이용한 펌 시술용 모발 처리제 및 이를 이용한 펌 시술방법

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US4137180A (en) 1976-07-02 1979-01-30 Lever Brothers Company Fabric treatment materials
US4185087A (en) 1977-12-28 1980-01-22 Union Carbide Corporation Hair conditioning compositions containing dialkylamino hydroxy organosilicon compounds and their derivatives
EP0216479A1 (fr) 1985-08-12 1987-04-01 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Water Treatments Limited Agents épaississants polymères et leur préparation
US4874554A (en) 1986-07-10 1989-10-17 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Quaternary ammonium compounds
EP0530974A1 (fr) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour le soin des cheveux
US6129770A (en) * 1995-06-26 2000-10-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien (Kgaa) Hair dye agents with at least one conditioner
EP0898958A1 (fr) 1997-08-28 1999-03-03 L'oreal Composition filmogène épaissie
EP0898960A1 (fr) 1997-08-28 1999-03-03 L'oreal Composition épaissie comprenent de la silice pyrogénée
WO2012027369A2 (fr) * 2010-08-23 2012-03-01 Diversapack Of California, Llc Système et procédé de lissage ou de mise en forme des cheveux
WO2016076437A1 (fr) * 2014-11-11 2016-05-19 L'oreal Composition pour fibres de kératine
WO2016154701A1 (fr) * 2015-04-02 2016-10-06 L'oreal Composition et procédé de traitement des cheveux
KR20200023871A (ko) * 2018-08-27 2020-03-06 이경희 L-아르기닌을 이용한 펌 시술용 모발 처리제 및 이를 이용한 펌 시술방법

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2024137598A1 (fr) * 2022-12-19 2024-06-27 L'oreal Compositions et procédés pour la décoloration des cheveux
FR3145483A1 (fr) * 2023-02-08 2024-08-09 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un acide aminé, au moins un polyuréthane associatif, au moins un polysaccharide particulier et au moins une silicone aminée
WO2024165675A1 (fr) * 2023-02-08 2024-08-15 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un acide aminé, au moins un polyuréthane associatif, au moins un polysaccharide particulier et au moins une silicone aminée

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