WO2021119771A1

WO2021119771A1 - Cosmetic composition, process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition and use of the cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2021119771A1
Application number: PCT/BR2019/050549
Authority: WO
Inventors: Antoniela GARDOLINSKI
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2019-12-19
Filing date: 2019-12-19
Publication date: 2021-06-24
Anticipated expiration: 2022-06-19
Also published as: BR112022009276A2; EP4076347A1

Abstract

The present invention is directed to new cosmetic compositions with high SPF, dry touch sensorial and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin, the uses of said cosmetic composition and a process of manufacturing the cosmetic compositions. More precisely, the present invention is directed to new cosmetic compositions comprising a combination of a phase A comprising an organic UV filter system and a phase B comprising silica silylate and cellulose. The composition of the present invention is stable over the time, also presents a high level of UV-protection in order to protect the skin from the damages of the sun, easy application, good spreadability, less shine, dry touch and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance when applied on the skin.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION, PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING THE COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to new cosmetic compositions with high SPF, dry touch sensorial and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin, the uses of said cosmetic compositions and a process of manufacturing the cosmetic compositions.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

It is known that the photoprotection of keratinous materials, including skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photo-aging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are typically two types of UVA/UVB cosmetic compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.

The degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB).

It is important to point out that the sensorial performance in sunscreen products are very sensible and crucial to the consumers. Particularly, cosmetic compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin. However, this combination of properties has been difficult to achieve, particularly because many active sunscreen compounds themselves have an oily or greasy feel and leave a white film on the skin.

Furthermore, most sunscreen filters are oil-like and/or oil-soluble materials. High levels of sunscreen filters in sunscreen products render the products less appealing for their greasy skin feel, stickiness, long drying time, and leave shiny and white residue on the skin after application.

Additionally, an important problem of cosmetic compositions is that, due to the great amount of sunscreen filters associated with great amount of additional ingredients to ensure the good sensoriality in the O/W emulsion, it tends to be unstable.

Therefore, it is a big challenge to bring dry touch to a cosmetic composition with high amount of oily phase and even more difficult to reduce the white film when applied on the skin, maintaining the robustness and stability of the composition.

Hence, a stable cosmetic composition is desired, associated with easy application, good spreadability, less shine, dry touch, high SPF values and no white film, combining high protection of the skin.

In this sense, the inventors succeeded to overcome the problems of the state of the art and surprisingly revealed a stable cosmetic composition, even at high concentrations of UV filters, having a light feel and pleasant sensorial as described above, through a specific combination of (i) a phase A comprising an organic UV filter system and a (ii) phase B comprising silica silylate and cellulose.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to new cosmetic compositions comprising (i) a phase A comprising an organic UV filter system and (ii) a phase B comprising silica silylate and cellulose.

The composition of the present invention is stable over the time, also presents a high level of UV-protection in order to protect the skin from the damages of the sun, easy application, good spreadability, less shine, dry touch and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance when applied on the skin.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

(i) phase A: an oil phase which comprises an organic UV filter system selected from the group of: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; ethylhexyl triazone; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; octocrylene; homosalate; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl- 10 laurate; bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and mixtures thereof; and

(ii) phase B: a water phase which comprises silica silylate and cellulose.

The composition according to the invention, presents a dry touch sensorial performance and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin, as well as a strong and robust stability of the composition over the time, even at high concentrations of UV filters.

The amount of the phase A in the cosmetic composition of the invention preferably ranges from about 3% to about 60% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 45% by weight, more preferably about 7% to about 30% by weight, most preferably about 10% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the phase B in the composition of the present invention is ranging from about 0.1% to 70% by weight and preferably from about 0.2% to about 60% by weight, and preferably from about 1 .0% to about 45% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.

The phase B of the present invention comprises silica silylate in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 8% by weight and preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, and preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the phase B of the present invention comprises cellulose in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to about 7% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a further embodiment, the phase B of the composition of the invention comprises water in an amount of about 60% or less, such as from about 60% to about 5% by weight, or about 50%, 40%, 45%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% or less, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

The cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion and can be used as a daily product for the skin.

The pH of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 4 and 6.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention presents a SPF of 30, 50, 60, 70 or 90.

Therefore, the composition of the present invention presents a high level of UV-protection in order to protect the skin from the damages of the sun, easy application, good spreadability, less shine, dry touch and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin. Also, the composition of the present invention is stable over the time and presents enhanced emulsion stability. In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of a composition for manufacturing a product for preventing sunburn, which can be used as sunscreen daily product.

The present invention is also related to a process of manufacturing a cosmetic composition that provides to the consumers the properties described above.

A process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition comprising:

(ii) phase B: a water phase which comprises silica silylate and cellulose; wherein the process of manufacturing comprises the following steps:

(a) preparing an oily phase (phase A) by mixing the UV filters, wherein the oily phase is heated until complete homogenization; and

(b) adding an aqueous phase (phase B) to the oily phase of step (a) under mixing until complete formation of the emulsion.

In a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase of step (b) is prepared by mixing water to the oily phase (a) and after a few minutes of agitation with shear leading to a tight emulsion add the silica silylate and cellulose.

In another particular embodiment, the step (a) of the process of the present invention further comprises the mixing of at least one additional ingredient.

Preferably, the least one additional ingredient of steps (a) and (b) is selected from the group consisting of inorganic and inorganic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, surfactants, additional fillers, silicones, antioxidants, solvents, fatty compounds, polymers, and mixtures thereof.

TERMS

As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or process conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

The amounts of the ingredients are based on the total weight of the composition.

PHASE A

The phase A of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is related to an oil phase which comprises an organic UV filter system selected from the group of: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; ethylhexyl triazone; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; octocrylene; homosalate; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl- 10 laurate; bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and mixtures thereof

Further to such the organic UV filter system, the composition of the present invention may comprise UV filters selected from the group of inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.

Inorganic UV Filters

The composition, according to the present invention, may comprises at least one inorganic UV filter. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.

The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter is in some embodiments insoluble in solvents, such as water, and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.

It is in some embodiments desirable that the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle such that the mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from about 1 nm to about 50 nm, and in some embodiments from about 5 nm to about 40 nm, and in some embodiments from about 10 nm to about 30 nm. The mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic mean diameter.

The inorganic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof. And in some embodiments, the inorganic UV filters are selected from pigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally from about 5 nm to about 50 nm, and in some embodiments from about 10 nm to about 50 nm) formed of metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se. And in some embodiments, the inorganic UV filters are selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and, in some embodiments, titanium oxide.

The inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes, such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds. It is in some embodiments desirable for the coating to include at least one organic UV filter. As the organic UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative, such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H- Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl) Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol), such as marketed as "TINOSORB M" by BASF, may be desirable.

In a known manner, the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.

The term “silicones” also encompasses silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes. The silicones used for the coating(s) can be and in some embodiments are selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. And in some embodiments still, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.

Of course, the inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures. The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical, and/or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes waxes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.

The coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the product "Sun veil" from Ikeda, and "Sunsil TIN 50" from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product "Sunveil F" from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" from Tayca, "Tioveil" from Tioxide, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)" and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" from Ishihara, and "UVT 14/4" from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W" and "Solaveil CT 100" from Uniqema, and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from Merck; with alumina and with aluminum laurate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from Tayca; with iron oxide and with iron stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from Tayca; with zinc oxide and with zinc stearate, such as the product "BR351" from Tayca; with silica and with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS", and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS" from Tayca; with silica, with alumina and with aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product "STT-30-DS" from Titan Kogyo; with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product "UV- Titan X 195" from Kemira; with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)" from Ishihara or "UV Titan M 262" from Kemira; with triethanolamine, such as the product "STT-65-S" from Titan Kogyo; with stearic acid, such as the product "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" from Ishihara; or with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" from Tayca. Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are, and in some embodiments T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, T1O2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF TiCbSb" by Cardre, and anatase/rutile T1O2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.

And in some embodiments, the following coated T1O2 can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter: Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-100 TV" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "S A-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Silica (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-100 WP" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110 M3S" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "SA-TTO-S3" from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) T1O2, such as the product "UV TITAN Ml 70" from Sachtleben, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;. and Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT- 100 AQ" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm. In terms of UV filtering ability, T1O2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is more desirable. For example, Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "HXMT-100ZA" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.

The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks "Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the trademark "P 25", by Wacker under the trademark "Oxyde de titane transparent PW", by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark "UFTR", by Tomen under the trademark "ITS" and by Tioxide under the trademark "Tioveil AQ". The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the trademark "Z-cote" by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark "Nanox" by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies. The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the trademark "Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the trademark "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nano oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with phosphate of perfiuoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "Escalol Z100" by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methicone mixture); those marketed under the trademark "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the trademark "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the trademark "Colloidal Cerium Oxide" by Rhone- Poulenc.

The uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard FE 45R AQ", and "Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by Mitsubishi under the trademark "TY-220".

The coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345”, and “Nanogard FE 45 BL”, or by BASF under the trademark “Oxyde de fer transparent”.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular, of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and of cerium dioxide coated with silica, such as marketed by Ikeda under the trademark “Sunveil A”, and also a mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide coated with alumina, with silica and with silicone, such as the product “M 261” marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, with silica and with glycerol, such as the product "M 211 " marketed by Kemira.

Coated inorganic UV filters are desirable, because the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. In addition, the coating(s) may help uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition, according to the present invention.

Organic UV Filters

The composition, according to the present invention, may comprise further organic UV filter. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.

The organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV- A and/or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.

The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.

The organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4- diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, as examples of the organic UV filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof. Anthranilic compounds: menthyl anthranilates, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer. The dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2- ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Salicylic compounds: Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), such as marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer. Camphor compounds, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, such as marketed under the trademark "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex. Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2- hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); such as marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF; and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4- diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (such as UVINUL A+ by BASF) b,b- Diphenylacrylate compounds: Octocrylene, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539" by BASF; and Etocrylene, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvasorb FIEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone, such as marketed under the trademark «UVTNUL T150 » by BASF. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2FI-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, such as marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Floffmann-LaRoche. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Fleliopan AP" by Flaarmann and Reimer. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF. Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6- (2FI-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], such as marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2FI- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], such as marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100" by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26, 184, and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane, such as marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or- "Mexoryl XL" by L’Oreal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]- 6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino- 1,3,5-triazine, such as marketed under the trademark of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. Screening polymers and screening silicones: The silicones described in WO 93/04665. Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE-19855649. 4,4- Diarylbutadiene compounds: l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

It is in some embodiments desirable that the organic UV filter(s) be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4- piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)- s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s- triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate)-6- [(3 - { 1 ,3 ,3 ,3 -tetramethyl- 1 - [(trimethylsilyloxy] - disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, l,l- dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l

(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

PHASE B

The phase B of the present invention is a water phase which comprises silica silylate and cellulose.

Silica Silylate

The “silica silylate” according to the present invention is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. Silica aerogels are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2). This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker, C.J., and Scherer, G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The silica silylate particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from about 500 to about 1500 m²/g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 1200 m²/g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 800 m²/g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from about 1 to about 30 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 25 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 20 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 15 pm. The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer- Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 . The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The size of the silica silylate particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

The silica silylate particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped (or tapped) density ranging from about 0.04 g/cm³ to about 0.10 g/cm³ _’ or alternatively from about 0.05 g/cm³ to about 0.08 g/cm³. In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

According to one embodiment, the silica silylate particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume Sv ranging from about 5 to about 60 m²/cm³, or alternatively from about 10 to about 50 m²/cm³, or alternatively from about 15 to about 40 m²/cm³. The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: Sv = SM.r where r is the tamped density expressed in g/cm³ and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m²/g, as defined above. In some embodiments, the silica silylate particles, according to the invention, have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from about 5 to about 18 ml/g, or alternatively from about 6 to about 15 ml/g, or alternatively from about 8 to about 12 ml/g. The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. Wp is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. Wp corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below: An amount = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The silica silylate according to the present invention, is a hydrophobic silica aerogel. The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups. Preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface- modified by silylation, is found in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725, incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, silica silylate particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.

Suitable examples of silica silylate, may include, but are not limited to, the aerogels sold under the tradenames of VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) and VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan). The particles of VM-2260 have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g. The particles of VM-2270 have a mean size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g. Another suitable example of a hydrophobic silica aerogel may include, but is not limited to, the aerogels commercially available from Cabot Corporation (Billerica, Massachusetts) under the tradename of Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

The silica silylate is preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel.

The silica silylate is preferably present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 8% by weight and preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, and preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.

Cellulose

The cellulose used in the present invention is a natural fiber without derivation or chemical modifications, with an average size of 30pm.

The cellulose is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 9.5% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.15% to about 7% by weight, and most preferably about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Water

The phase B of the present invention comprises water in an amount of about 60% or less, such as from about 60% to about 5% by weight, or about 50%, 40%, 45%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% or less, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as inorganic and inorganic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, surfactants, additional fillers, silicones, antioxidants, solvents, fatty compounds, polymers, and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Suitable coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with silica such as the product, silica and iron oxide, silica and alumina, alumina such as the products, alumina and aluminum stearate, alumina and aluminum laurate, iron oxide and iron stearate, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, silica, alumina and silicone, silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and silicone, alumina and silicone, etc.

Mixtures of metal oxides may also be mentioned, especially titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the silica-coated equiponderous mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, as well as the alumina-silica- and silicone-coated mixture of titanium oxide and zinc dioxide, or the alumina-, silica- and glycerin-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide.

Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gum, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise at least one silicon ingredient, which may be dimethicone and caprylyl methicone, among others.

Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.

Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, polylactic acid, nylon-12, nylon-66, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, silica silylate, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.

Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, water, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof.

In various embodiments, the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 100% by weight, or from about 20 to about 85% by weight, or from about 30 to about 75% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 75% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 75% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.

Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

Exemplary of fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, esters, fatty acids, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbons/paraffins, such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid, silicones mineral oil, Isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, T-butyl alcohol, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of modified starches according to the present invention are aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof.

Also, non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.

Suitable antioxidant of the present invention includes, but not limited to

BHT.

Examples of surfactants of the present invention are stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, poloxamer 338 and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate.

Examples of silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone and caprylyl methicone.

Exemplary of polymers, include, but not limited to, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gam, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and styrene/acrylates copolymer.

The additional ingredients may represent from 60% to 85%, such as from 60% to 80% or such as from 65 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLES 1 TO 3

Suitable composition according to the present invention is as Example 1 . Suitable comparative compositions of the state of the art are as examples 2 to 3, as follows:

EXAMPLE 4

The compositions according to examples 1 to 3 were prepared according to the following steps: (a) preparing an oily phase (phase A) by mixing the UV filters, wherein the oily phase is heated until complete homogenization; and

(b) adding an aqueous phase (phase B) to the oily phase of step (a) under mixing until complete formation of the emulsion, wherein the aqueous phase of step (b) is prepared by mixing water to the oily phase (a) and after a few minutes of agitation with shear leading to a tight emulsion add the silica silylate and cellulose.

EXAMPLE 5

A sensorial test was performed with twenty subjects having normal to combination skin in order to compare EX.1 , EX.2 and EX.3, after application and again after 4h of use. The following attributes were observed:

As a result of appearance and pickup, it was observed that EX.1 presented lower consistency and tended to be less sticky on fingers.

With respect to the Application (Foreman and Face), the EX.1 presented higher soaping effect and tended to have a decrease of white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin.

Finally, concerning the Skin Finish, the EX. 1 presented less stick and less slippery.

EXAMPLE 6

Another comparative test was performed with EX.1 and EX.3. For this purpose, six volunteers with oil to combination skin (prototype I to III) applied each product on half face. The evaluation was made soon after the application and 4 hours using the products.

It was observed the following attributes for each product: > Dry touch during the day: Dry to the touch during the day; Moisturizes/ softness sensation, Comfort Natural Looking skin: Radiant, healthy, glow, natural looking skin Matte effect during the day: Shine control during the day; Natural skin look during the day, oil control (if oily skin) during the day.

> Easy application: Easy application & spreadability, quick/JR absorption White film: JR white film/No streaks, no residue; not adapted to skin color Comfort sensation: not greasy nor very dry; not heavy; not so tight; dirty or oily skin feeling; discomfort. > Touch on skin: Soft/smooth/velvety touch on skin, JR sticky

Resistance to water and sweat: Resistance to water and sweat.

As a conclusion, it was observed that the application and absorption were easy with both products. However, EX. 1 showed a texture that leaves a decrease of white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin during application and results in a more natural look at the immediate effect.

As an immediate evaluation, it was observed that EX. 1 makes the look with a decreased white film and with a more transparent appearance on the skin while the EX. 3 leaves a light white film on the surface of the skin.

According to the evaluation after 4 hours, the EX. 1 resulted in a dry touch, matte look, more natural look and slightly waxy residual look than EX. 3.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS

1 . A sunscreen composition comprising:

(ii) phase B: a water phase which comprises silica silylate and cellulose.

2. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the phase A ranges from 3% to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the phase B ranges from 0.1% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the phase B comprises silica silylate in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the phase B comprises cellulose in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 9.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the phase B comprises water in an amount of 5% to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises additional ingredients selected from further inorganic and organic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, surfactants, additional fillers, silicones, antioxidants, solvents, fatty compounds, polymers, and mixtures thereof.

8. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it is in the form of an O/W emulsion.

9. A process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) preparing an oily phase (phase A) by mixing the UV filters, wherein the oily phase is heated until complete homogenization; and (b) adding an aqueous phase (phase B) to the oily phase of step (a) under mixing until complete formation of the emulsion, wherein the aqueous phase of step (b) is prepared by mixing water to the oily phase (a) and after a few minutes of agitation with shear leading to a tight emulsion add the silica silylate and cellulose.

10. The process, according to claim 8, wherein the process comprises at least one additional ingredient in phases A and B, selected from the group consisting of inorganic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones and polymers.

11. Use of the cosmetic composition, as defined in claim 1 , wherein it is for the manufacture of a product to be used as sunscreen daily product.