WO2021151177A1 - Cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition and method for styling the hair - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition and method for styling the hair Download PDFInfo
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- WO2021151177A1 WO2021151177A1 PCT/BR2020/050023 BR2020050023W WO2021151177A1 WO 2021151177 A1 WO2021151177 A1 WO 2021151177A1 BR 2020050023 W BR2020050023 W BR 2020050023W WO 2021151177 A1 WO2021151177 A1 WO 2021151177A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
Definitions
- COSMETIC COMPOSITION USE OF A COSMETIC COMPOSITION, PROCESS FOR THE PREPARATION OF A COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR
- the present invention relates to a new styling and caring cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, especially for curly hair, containing a fatty amine, a wax, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin and a fatty alcohol. Additionally, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition and a method for styling the hair.
- the present invention also relates to a method of cold processing for inserting the wax into the composition.
- Frizzy hair is unsightly and makes it difficult for consumers to control and maintain the hair style. This frizzy condition is particularly pronounced in dry, damaged or curly hair.
- Curly hair tends to become frizzy, undefined curls and significantly expand in volume when exposed to high humidity conditions or changes in humidity environment.
- compositions have been developed in order to conditioning, discipline, define and control the hair, in particular curly hair, enhancing/maintaining curl definition, curl retention, and curl regularity, and/or enhancing shine, without leaving the hair feeling and/or looking unnatural and stiff.
- a leave-on hair cosmetic composition without the above-described drawbacks, that delivers high styling and caring for curly hair (maintaining the hair smooth) and that can impart superior frizz and volume control to the hair. It is also desirable for manufacturers of hair cosmetic products to continuously investigate new ingredients and/or combination of ingredients that can be formulated into a final composition that can impart many cosmetic benefits but which remains stable or which does not exhibit phase separation.
- the inventors of the present invention surprisingly achieved a new cosmetic composition which is stable over the time, delivers high styling and caring for curly hair due to the combination of a fatty amine, a wax, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin and a fatty alcohol.
- the new cosmetic composition delivers high styling and caring for curly hair. It may be in the form of a leave-on cosmetic composition, such as combing cream composition (leave on).
- the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising:
- FIG. 1 In vitro test - hair swatch type IV (same batch) - evaluation after 24h after shape breakage.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
- liquid carnauba wax present in an amount of from 0.2% to 5% by weight
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a leave-on cosmetic composition and it is mainly for curly hair.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a silicone-free.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24 in an amount ranging from about 0.4% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 4.5% by weight, such as from about 0.6% to about 4% by weight, from about 0.7% to about 3.5% by weight, from about 0.8% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5%, by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 is selected from fatty amidoamine compounds chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropy
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 which includes cationizable surfactants.
- the cationizable surfactants are selected from the compounds of the general structure:
- R4- A- R5 — B wherein FU is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, Rs is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, A is selected from: o
- Fte and Rzare the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms
- Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms
- R10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a liquid carnauba wax in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.35% to about 2.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.4% to about 2% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a liquid carnauba wax in an amount of about 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1 , 1 .1 , 1 .2, 1 .3, 1 .4, 1 .5, 1 .6, 1 .7, 1 .8, 1 .9, or 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the wax has a melting point of ⁇ -1 °C.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least oily compound of vegetal origin compound in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 1 .5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1 .5% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one oily compound of vegetal origin comprises 30% to 60% of an alkyl group having a carbon chain length of at least Cl8.
- the oily compound of vegetal origin includes vegetal butters.
- the vegetal butters are chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urukum butter, and mixtures thereof.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol in an amount ranging from about 2.0% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 6.5% by weight, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.5% by weight, and more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.0% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1 - tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1 -octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1 - triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
- the cosmetic composition is free of silicones. In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is free of synthetic styling polymers.
- the cosmetic composition is for styling and caring for the hair, particularly curly hair.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises additional ingredients such as cationic surfactants other than the above-described fatty amines selected from cationizable surfactants, organic solvents and organic acids.
- the cationic surfactants are present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2.2% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the cationic surfactants are selected from a quaternary ammonium salt with a carbon chain length from C12 to C24. In a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactants are selected from:
- the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- Ri6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
- R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ris, Ri9, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
- the cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention is directed to styling hair, caring for hair, manageability of the hair, controlling frizz in hair and volume of hair.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used as a combing cream.
- the organic solvent is glycerin and it is present in an amount of 0.5 to 5% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the pH of the cosmetic composition of the invention ranges from about 4 to about 5.5.
- the viscosity of the leave-on hair emulsion cosmetic composition of the invention ranges from about 2,650 mPa.s to about 3,300 mPa.s.
- the cosmetic composition of the invention is for the manufacturing of a product to be used as a leave-on on the hair to control the frizz, manageability of the hair, care of the hair and the volume of the hair.
- the present invention is directed to a method for controlling the frizz and the volume of curly hair, wherein the method comprises contacting the hair with the composition.
- the present invention also refers to a process for preparing the cosmetic composition.
- the wax of the present invention is in the form of a wax dispersion, which, when added in cold process, resulting in a faster and cold processing method.
- the leave-on hair care composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the hair, preferably in traditional routines, since as will be demonstrated, different routines customized with other types of products would not enhance the benefits described above.
- the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
- a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
- All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
- compositions of the present disclosure comprise a fatty amine and may be chosen from alkyl quaternary ammonium or diammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty amine of the present invention comprises a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24.
- the fatty amine may include cationizable surfactants, for example of the general structure:
- R4-A-R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from: and and B is selected from wherein Fte and Rz are the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and I 710 X wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R. sub.10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atom
- R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, in some embodiments, 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, R6 to R10 are same as above.
- Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidoprop
- Cationizable surfactants or amphiphilic surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines. in some embodiments, fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the fatty dialkylamines may be fatty dimethylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
- Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
- Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine,
- Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines.
- the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid.
- Non limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
- the fatty amine compound is neutralized (fully or partially) with an organic acid in the composition of the present invention.
- organic acid useful for this purpose include, but are not limited to, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, HOOC-PEG-COOH acid; citric acid, tartaric acid; betaine hydrochloride, gluconic acid or 2-ethylcaproic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid, and mixtures thereof, polycarboxylic acids selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid, mucic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, polyethylene glycol) bis(carboxymethyl)ethers, acrylic polyacid, copolymer of acrylic acid and maleic acid, polyaspartic acid, carboxylic polydi
- the organic acid is utilized (either in its total amount or a portion of its total amount) to “neutralize” the at least one fatty amine so that the fatty dialkylamines can be combined with fatty alcohols to form a stable composition.
- the fatty dialkylamine compounds After neutralization with an organic acid, the fatty dialkylamine compounds exhibit a cationic charge and therefore have properties similar to a cationic surfactant. This allows the fatty dialkylamine compounds to provide conditioning and discipline benefits to the hair.
- the total amount of the organic acid may vary but is typically in an amount sufficient to neutralize the at least one fatty amine.
- the total amount of the fatty amine ranges from about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 4.5% by weight, such as from about 0.6% to about 4% by weight, from about 0.7% to about 3.5% by weight, from about 0.8% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5%, by weight,, based on the total weight of the composition of the present disclosure, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition of the present disclosure.
- the “carnauba wax” relates to an oil-in-water-emulsion (O/W), i.e., an emulsified carnauba wax, that comprises solid carnauba wax, water and at least one surfactant, marketed under the trademark HOSTAPUR CW by Clariant.
- O/W oil-in-water-emulsion
- HOSTAPUR CW surfactant
- the “carnauba wax” of the present invention can also be called a “liquid carnauba wax.”
- the amount of solid carnauba wax in the O/W emulsion is at least about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the O/W emulsion, preferably from about 30% by weight to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the O/W emulsion.
- Solid carnauba wax is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and leaf strams of carnauba palms, Copernicia cerifera.
- the carnauba wax comprises esters of C18-C32 fatty acids, and C28-C34 alcohols, also containing high amounts of hydroxy acid esters and melting points around 80 and 86 °C.
- the solid carnauba wax usually comprises from about 80% by weight to about 85% by weight of fatty esters, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of alcohols, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of hydrocarbons, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of free acids, from about 1 % by weight to about 6% by weight of resins, from about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight of lactic components and from about 0.1% by weight to about 2% by weight of humidity.
- the amount of water in the O/W emulsion of the present invention is at least about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the O/W emulsion, preferably from about 40% by weight to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the O/W emulsion.
- the at least one surfactant of the O/W emulsion is selected from the group of anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
- Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are selected from the group comprising alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, sulfonates, such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, tau
- Non limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, such as polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol
- the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and derivatives (e.g. Biophilic), sugar esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate.
- the surfactants used in the O/W emulsion are isotridecyl phosphate and laureth-23.
- the carnauba wax of the present invention may also comprise additional ingredients such as preserving agents and solvents.
- preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention includes phenoxyethanol.
- solvent which can be used in accordance with the invention includes glycerin.
- the amount of liquid carnauba wax in the cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, or from 0.2% to about 4.5% by weight, or from about 0.25% to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3% to about 4.5% by weight, or from about 0.3% to about 3.0% by weight, or from about 0.35% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.4% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.4% to about 2% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.6% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.7% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.8% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
- compositions hereof include at least one fatty alcohol.
- fatty alcohol means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated.
- the fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid.
- the hair treatment compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol.
- the solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those that are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, that is to say they have a water solubility of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
- the solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
- the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol.
- R does not contain a hydroxyl group.
- oleic alcohol linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-decyl-1 -tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -cetanol and mixtures thereof.
- the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol.
- the hair treatment compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
- the hair treatment compositions preferably include cetearyl alcohol.
- the amount of each of the at least one fatty alcohol is from about 2.0% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 6.5% by weight, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.5% by weight, and more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition or from about or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
- One of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
- any one of the at least one fatty alcohol is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 6 to about 8.0 wt.%, including increments and ranges therein and there between, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- plant-based or vegetal oils include non-limiting example include plant-based or vegetal oils such as acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, rose hip oil, ajwain oil, angelic root oil, anise oil, aragan oil, asafetida, balsam oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, citronella
- Suitable oily compounds for use in the leave-on hair emulsion compositions of the present invention can also be selected from vegetal butters such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
- the suitable oily compound of vegetal origin of the present invention is selected from Karite Nilotica butter or shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii).
- the oily compound of vegetal origin may be present in the emulsion composition of the invention at a concentration from about 0.3% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.4% to about 1 .4% and more preferably from between about 0.5% to about 1 % by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions hereof may include at least one cationic surfactant, other than the cationic fatty amines.
- cationic surfactant means a surfactant that may be positively charged when it is contained in the compositions according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.
- Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
- the cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
- the cationic surfactant comprises cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
- Behentrimonium Chloride also described by the technical names that include 1 -Docosanaminium, N,N,N- Trimethyl-, Chloride, and N,N,N-Trimethyl-1 -Docosanaminium Chloride, is the quaternary ammonium salt that conforms to the formula:
- the amount of each of the at least one cationic surfactant is from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or from about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, or from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 1 .5 to about 5 wt.% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
- the amount of each of the at least one cationic surfactant is from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or from about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, or from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 1 .5 to about 5 wt.% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
- the at least one cationic surfactant is present from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, and in some particular embodiments is present from about 1 to about 3 wt.%, and when present, an acid neutralizer is present from about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
- Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumb
- the cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
- salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
- the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain.
- quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include: those corresponding to the general formula below: in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, in some embodiments, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
- the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
- the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
- X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
- quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III) those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
- tetraalkylammonium salts for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12
- a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline such as, for example, those of formula below: in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups , in some embodiments, comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
- Ri2 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 , in some embodiments, denotes a methyl group, and R15 , in some embodiments, denotes a hydrogen atom.
- Ri4 in some embodiments, denotes a methyl group
- R15 in some embodiments, denotes a hydrogen atom.
- Such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;
- R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
- R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Risa, Rie, R19, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
- Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (
- the cationic charge such as cationic surfactants improve detangling, moisturizing and smoothness, presenting the function of a conditioning agent.
- the total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant may vary but is typically about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, preferably about 0.2% to about 3.5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
- the total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is about 0.1% to about 3.0% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 2.2%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
- Water can be present in total amounts of about 95% or less, such as from about 95% to about 5% by weight, or about 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% or less, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- water can be present in an amount of about 95%, such as about 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Additionally, water can be present in the compositions of the present disclosure in the amount of from about 20% to about 95% by weight, from about 40% to about 90% by weight, or from about 50% to about 80% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the compositions.
- water can be present in the compositions of the present disclosure in the amount of at least about 95%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 45%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.
- composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, organic solvents, actives, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers and mixtures thereof.
- Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to xanthan gum, poly Cio- 30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
- Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include salicylic acid and sodium benzoate.
- Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
- Suitable organic solvents include, but are not limited to alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
- the organic solvent is present in a concentration from about 0.1 to 50% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, or from about 0.2 to about 12% by weight, or preferably from about 0.3 to about 10% by weight, and more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
- Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
- silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone and caprylyl methicone.
- Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
- Exemplary of polymers include, but not limited to octenylsuccinate, xanthan gam, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and styrene/acrylates copolymer.
- the additional ingredients may represent from 10% to 90%, such as from 20% to 85% or such as from 30 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention.
- the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition containing:
- liquid carnauba wax present in an amount of from 0.2% to about 4.5% by weight, or from about 0.3% to about 3.0% by weight, or from about 0.4% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.4% to about 2% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.6% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.7% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.8% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight;
- At least one fatty alcohol selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and present in an amount of from about 2.0% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 6.5% by weight, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.5% by weight, and more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.0% by weight; and
- At least one oil compound of vegetal origin selected from shea butter, Karite Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), mango butter (Mangifera indica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, and mixtures thereof; all weights being based on the total amount of water.
- oil compound of vegetal origin selected from shea butter, Karite Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), mango butter (Mangifera indica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia
- composition above further comprises an organic acid.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a viscosity ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 mPa.s, or from about 1500 to about 4000 mPa.s, or from about 2000 to about 3500 mPa.s, or from about 2,650 to about 3,300 mPa.s, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a pH ranging from about 3.5 to about 6.5, or from about 3.5 to about 6, or from about 4 to about 5.5.
- the present invention is directed to a method of treating hair, the method comprising applying a cosmetic composition onto hair or contactin hair with a cosmetic composition, wherein the composition contains:
- liquid carnauba wax present in an amount of from 0.2% to 5% by weight
- the present invention further relates to a method for manufacturing the compositions of the present invention, but not limited to, comprising the following steps: Step (A)
- At least 70 Q C such as from about 70-75 Q C, increase the shear to proceed to emulsification.
- the process of manufacturing the compositions of the present invention is different from a traditional manufacturing process involving waxes.
- the wax is usually added to the composition before emulsification at a temperature higher than the melting point of the wax, typically from about 80-85 °C.
- the liquid wax or wax emulsion is added at the end after the mixture/composition has been cooled down (cold processing).
- compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 1 to 3, as follows:
- a comparative composition is as Example 4 below:
- EXAMPLE 5 The compositions of EX. 1 to EX. 3 (present invention) and EX. 4
- compositions of EX. 1 to EX. 3 present on wet hair, less frizz, less volume, more curl regularity and smooth touch, over the composition of EX. 4.
- compositions of EX. 1 to EX. 3 present on dry hair, more curl regularity, more curl definition, discipline, shine and less frizz, over the composition of EX. 4.
- EXAMPLES 6 to 7 present on dry hair, more curl regularity, more curl definition, discipline, shine and less frizz, over the composition of EX. 4.
- Step (a) (conventional sulfate-based Shampoo)
- Step (b) (Compositions of EX. 6 and EX. 7) 1 ) Wet swatch under tap water passing index and thumb fingers 5 times through the swatch.
- step (c) the hair treated or contacted with EX. 6 (with beeswax) presented less curl definition, heavier feel, and more frizz when compared to the hair treated or contacted with EX. 7 (with Carnauba). These results could be verified in FIG. 1.
- a non-limitative example of the process for manufacturing the compositions of EX. 1 to EX.3, is as follows:
- At least 70 Q C such as from about 70-75 Q C, increase the shear to proceed to emulsification.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a new styling and caring cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, especially for curly hair, containing a fatty amine, a liquid carnauba wax, at least one fatty alcohol and water. Additionally, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition and a method for styling hair.
Description
COSMETIC COMPOSITION, USE OF A COSMETIC COMPOSITION, PROCESS FOR THE PREPARATION OF A COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR
STYLING THE HAIR FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a new styling and caring cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, especially for curly hair, containing a fatty amine, a wax, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin and a fatty alcohol. Additionally, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition and a method for styling the hair.
The present invention also relates to a method of cold processing for inserting the wax into the composition.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
People have been using a number of cosmetic and personal care compositions to enhance the look and feel of keratin fibers, such as the hair. Exposure to humid conditions and chemical procedures can cause an excessively expanded volume (i.e., “frizz volume”), or appear frizzy. This frizzy condition of hair often appears unruly and is often characterized with a multiplicity of fly-away strands of hair. Frizzy hair is unsightly and makes it difficult for consumers to control and maintain the hair style. This frizzy condition is particularly pronounced in dry, damaged or curly hair.
Curly hair tends to become frizzy, undefined curls and significantly expand in volume when exposed to high humidity conditions or changes in humidity environment.
For temporary control and definition of the curls, styling mousse, gels, lotions, and spray compositions have been employed to combat these conditions.
Many attempts of compositions have been developed in order to conditioning, discipline, define and control the hair, in particular curly hair, enhancing/maintaining curl definition, curl retention, and curl regularity, and/or enhancing shine, without leaving the hair feeling and/or looking unnatural and stiff.
Unfortunately, the products of the state of the art can still leave the hair stiff and unmanageable after application and negatively affect ease of combing and hair feel.
Therefore, it is desirable to formulate a leave-on hair cosmetic composition without the above-described drawbacks, that delivers high styling and caring for curly hair (maintaining the hair smooth) and that can impart superior frizz
and volume control to the hair. It is also desirable for manufacturers of hair cosmetic products to continuously investigate new ingredients and/or combination of ingredients that can be formulated into a final composition that can impart many cosmetic benefits but which remains stable or which does not exhibit phase separation.
It should be mentioned that the stabilization of cosmetic products is an important matter, due to different chemical classes of the ingredients. Thus, the incorporation of certain ingredients such as waxes, which are known to provide cosmetic benefits to hair, can present a formulation and/or a manufacturing challenge, especially, when combined with other ingredients.
In this sense, the inventors of the present invention surprisingly achieved a new cosmetic composition which is stable over the time, delivers high styling and caring for curly hair due to the combination of a fatty amine, a wax, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin and a fatty alcohol.
The new cosmetic composition delivers high styling and caring for curly hair. It may be in the form of a leave-on cosmetic composition, such as combing cream composition (leave on).
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one fatty amine; (b) a liquid carnauba wax; (c) at least one fatty alcohol; and (d) water.
In other words, by the combination of cationic surfactants and natural fatty compound with vegetable wax emulsion, was possible to achieve a composition which delivers styling and care without using silicones, that is able to control the frizz and improve the visual aspect of the curls (more curl definition, curl regularity, and discipline).
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
FIG. 1 - In vitro test - hair swatch type IV (same batch) - evaluation after 24h after shape breakage.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24 in an amount of from 0.4% to 5.0% by weight;
(b) liquid carnauba wax present in an amount of from 0.2% to 5% by weight;
(c) at least one fatty alcohol; and
(d) water; all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a leave-on cosmetic composition and it is mainly for curly hair.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a silicone-free.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24 in an amount ranging from about 0.4% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 4.5% by weight, such as from about 0.6% to about 4% by weight, from about 0.7% to about 3.5% by weight, from about 0.8% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5%, by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 is selected from fatty amidoamine compounds chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 which includes cationizable surfactants.
In a preferred embodiment, the cationizable surfactants are selected from the compounds of the general structure:
R4- A- R5 — B wherein FU is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, Rs is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, A is selected from:
o
— c O and
and B is selected from
wherein Fte and Rzare the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and
wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, R10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a liquid carnauba wax in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.35% to about 2.5% by weight, more preferably from about
0.4% to about 2% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a liquid carnauba wax in an amount of about 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1 , 1 .1 , 1 .2, 1 .3, 1 .4, 1 .5, 1 .6, 1 .7, 1 .8, 1 .9, or 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the wax has a melting point of <-1 °C.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least oily compound of vegetal origin compound in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 1 .5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1 .5% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one oily compound of vegetal origin comprises 30% to 60% of an alkyl group having a carbon chain length of at least Cl8.
In a preferred embodiment, the oily compound of vegetal origin includes vegetal butters. The vegetal butters are chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urukum butter, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol in an amount ranging from about 2.0% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 6.5% by weight, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.5% by weight, and more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.0% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1 - tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1 -octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1 - triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is free of silicones.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is free of synthetic styling polymers.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition is for styling and caring for the hair, particularly curly hair. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises additional ingredients such as cationic surfactants other than the above-described fatty amines selected from cationizable surfactants, organic solvents and organic acids.
In a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactants are present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2.2% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactants are selected from a quaternary ammonium salt with a carbon chain length from C12 to C24. In a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactants are selected from:
- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below:
in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline;
- a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula:
in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ris, Ri9, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
In a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion.
Also, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is directed to styling hair, caring for hair, manageability of the hair, controlling frizz in hair and volume of hair.
Additionally, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used as a combing cream.
In a more preferred embodiment, the organic solvent is glycerin and it is present in an amount of 0.5 to 5% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The pH of the cosmetic composition of the invention ranges from about 4 to about 5.5.
The viscosity of the leave-on hair emulsion cosmetic composition of the invention ranges from about 2,650 mPa.s to about 3,300 mPa.s.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is for the manufacturing of a product to be used as a leave-on on the hair to control the frizz, manageability of the hair, care of the hair and the volume of the hair.
Moreover, the present invention is directed to a method for controlling the frizz and the volume of curly hair, wherein the method comprises contacting the hair with the composition.
The present invention also refers to a process for preparing the cosmetic composition.
In a further embodiment, the wax of the present invention is in the form of a wax dispersion, which, when added in cold process, resulting in a faster and cold processing method.
In addition, the leave-on hair care composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the hair, preferably in traditional routines, since as will be demonstrated, different routines customized with other types of products would not enhance the benefits described above.
TERMS
As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or process conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
FATTY AMINE
The compositions of the present disclosure comprise a fatty amine and may be chosen from alkyl quaternary ammonium or diammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the fatty amine of the present invention comprises a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24.
In another embodiments, the fatty amine may include cationizable surfactants, for example of the general structure:
R4-A-R5 — B; wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from:
and
and B is selected from
wherein Fte and Rz are the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and I 710 X
wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R. sub.10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
In some instances, R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, in some embodiments, 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, R6 to R10 are same as above.
Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine,
palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl amine, lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine, lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl buylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearamidopropyl amine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyldibutylamine, stearamidopropyl butylamine, stearamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl amine, behenamidopropyl methylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dibutylamine, behenamidopropyl butylamine, behenamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilauramidopropyl methylamine, dilauramidopropyl buylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl tri hydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropyl amine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl buylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl amine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyl diethylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl buylamine,
myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearoylpropyl amine, stearoylpropyl methylamine, stearoylpropyl diethylamine, stearoylpropyl dibutylamine, stearoylpropyl butylamine, stearoylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl amine, behenylpropyl methylamine, behenylpropyl diethylamine, behenylpropyl dibutylamine, behenylpropyl butylamine, behenylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl methylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl ethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitylpropyl propylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauroylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropyl buylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distearylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl tri hydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylpropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyldihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
Cationizable surfactants or amphiphilic surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines. in some embodiments, fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the fatty dialkylamines may be fatty dimethylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine,
arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
The fatty amine compound is neutralized (fully or partially) with an organic acid in the composition of the present invention. Representative examples of organic acid useful for this purpose include, but are not limited to, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, HOOC-PEG-COOH acid; citric acid, tartaric acid; betaine hydrochloride, gluconic acid or 2-ethylcaproic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid, and mixtures thereof, polycarboxylic acids selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid, mucic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, polyethylene glycol) bis(carboxymethyl)ethers, acrylic polyacid, copolymer of acrylic acid and maleic acid, polyaspartic acid, carboxylic polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof, sulfonic acid selected from benzene sulfonic acid, sulfonic acid HS020H, taurine, 2-[4-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)-piperazin-1 -yl]ethane sulfonic acid (or HEPES), and (3E)-3-(4-{(E)-[7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)bicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2- ylidene]methyl}benzylidene)-7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1 ]hept-1 -yl]methane sulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof, trichloroacetic acid, L- polyethylene glycol) bis(carboxymethyl)ether having a molecular weight of 250 g/mol, salicylic acid derivatives, jasmonic acid derivative, 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentyl acetic acid, 2-[4-(2- hydroxy-ethyl)-piperazin-1-yl]-ethanesulfonic acid, pyruvic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, aspartic acid, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid and mixtures thereof, at least
one di-carboyxlic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the organic acid is utilized (either in its total amount or a portion of its total amount) to “neutralize” the at least one fatty amine so that the fatty dialkylamines can be combined with fatty alcohols to form a stable composition. After neutralization with an organic acid, the fatty dialkylamine compounds exhibit a cationic charge and therefore have properties similar to a cationic surfactant. This allows the fatty dialkylamine compounds to provide conditioning and discipline benefits to the hair.
The total amount of the organic acid may vary but is typically in an amount sufficient to neutralize the at least one fatty amine.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of the fatty amine ranges from about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 4.5% by weight, such as from about 0.6% to about 4% by weight, from about 0.7% to about 3.5% by weight, from about 0.8% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5%, by weight,, based on the total weight of the composition of the present disclosure, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition of the present disclosure.
CARNAUBA WAX
As used herein, the “carnauba wax” relates to an oil-in-water-emulsion (O/W), i.e., an emulsified carnauba wax, that comprises solid carnauba wax, water and at least one surfactant, marketed under the trademark HOSTAPUR CW by Clariant.
As used herein, the “carnauba wax” of the present invention, can also be called a “liquid carnauba wax.”
In a preferred embodiment, the amount of solid carnauba wax in the O/W emulsion is at least about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the O/W emulsion, preferably from about 30% by weight to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the O/W emulsion.
Solid carnauba wax is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and leaf strams of carnauba palms, Copernicia cerifera. The carnauba wax comprises esters of C18-C32 fatty acids, and C28-C34 alcohols, also containing high amounts of hydroxy acid esters and melting points around 80 and 86 °C.
Additionally, the solid carnauba wax usually comprises from about 80% by weight to about 85% by weight of fatty esters, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of alcohols, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of hydrocarbons, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of free acids, from about 1 % by weight to about 6% by weight of resins, from about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight of lactic components and from about 0.1% by weight to about 2% by weight of humidity.
In a preferred embodiment, the amount of water in the O/W emulsion of the present invention is at least about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the O/W emulsion, preferably from about 40% by weight to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the O/W emulsion.
The at least one surfactant of the O/W emulsion is selected from the group of anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are selected from the group comprising alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, sulfonates, such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, isethionates, N- acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D- galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
Non limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, such as polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid
esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and derivatives (e.g. Biophilic), sugar esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate.
In a preferred embodiment, the surfactants used in the O/W emulsion are isotridecyl phosphate and laureth-23.
The carnauba wax of the present invention may also comprise additional ingredients such as preserving agents and solvents. Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention includes phenoxyethanol. Non-limiting example of solvent which can be used in accordance with the invention includes glycerin.
The amount of liquid carnauba wax in the cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, or from 0.2% to about 4.5% by weight, or from about 0.25% to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3% to about 4.5% by weight, or from about 0.3% to about 3.0% by weight, or from about 0.35% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.4% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.4% to about 2% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.6% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.7% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.8% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
FATTY ALCOHOLS
In accordance with the disclosure, compositions hereof include at least one fatty alcohol.
The term "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor
glycerolated. The fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In some instances, it is preferable that the hair treatment compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol. The solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those that are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, that is to say they have a water solubility of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
The solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
In particular, it is possible to mention, alone or as a mixture: lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1 - eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1 -docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1 -octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1 - triacontanol).
Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
The liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those containing C10-C34, preferably have branched carbon chains and/or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated (C=C double bond), and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
The liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C12-C24 double bond C=C), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These include oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol, 2-
butyloctanol, 2-hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-decyl-1 -tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -cetanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol.
In some instances, the hair treatment compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the hair treatment compositions preferably include cetearyl alcohol.
In accordance with the various embodiments, when present, the amount of each of the at least one fatty alcohol is from about 2.0% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 6.5% by weight, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.5% by weight, and more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition or from about or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
Thus, any one of the at least one fatty alcohol is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 6 to about 8.0 wt.%, including increments and ranges therein and there between, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
OILY COMPOUND OF VEGETAL ORIGIN
The suitable oily compounds of vegetal origin that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are selected from plant-based or vegetal oils include non-limiting example include plant-based or vegetal oils such as acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, rose hip oil, ajwain oil, angelic root oil, anise oil, aragan oil, asafetida, balsam oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander oil, costmary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, cypress, cypriol, curry leaf, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, galangal, geranium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod, grapefruit oil, henna oil, helichrysum,
horseradish oil, hyssop, Idaho tansy, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass, marjoram, melaleuca, lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neem tree oil, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, orris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, patchouli oil, perilla oil, pennyroyal oil, peppermint oil, petitgrain, pine oil, plum oil, ravensara, red cedar, roman chamomile, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schisandra oil, spikenard, spruce, star anise oil, tangerine, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, tsuga oil, turmeric, valerian, vetiver oil, western red cedar, wintergreen, yarrow oil, ylang- ylang, and zedoary oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, flax oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, arara oil, shea butter oil and rapeseed oil.
Suitable oily compounds for use in the leave-on hair emulsion compositions of the present invention can also be selected from vegetal butters such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Karite Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter.
In a preferred embodiment the suitable oily compound of vegetal origin of the present invention is selected from Karite Nilotica butter or shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii).
The oily compound of vegetal origin may be present in the emulsion composition of the invention at a concentration from about 0.3% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.4% to about 1 .4% and more preferably from between about
0.5% to about 1 % by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.
SURFACTANTS
In accordance with the disclosure, compositions hereof may include at least one cationic surfactant, other than the cationic fatty amines. The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that may be positively charged when it is contained in the compositions according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant comprises cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Behentrimonium Chloride, also described by the technical names that include 1 -Docosanaminium, N,N,N- Trimethyl-, Chloride, and N,N,N-Trimethyl-1 -Docosanaminium Chloride, is the quaternary ammonium salt that conforms to the formula:
In accordance with some embodiments, the amount of each of the at least one cationic surfactant is from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or from about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, or from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 1 .5 to about 5 wt.% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight,
based on the weight of the composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. In some particular embodiments, the at least one cationic surfactant, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer, is present from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, and in some particular embodiments is present from about 1 to about 3 wt.%, and when present, an acid neutralizer is present from about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphen bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCI, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1 , procainehydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride, and hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide.
The cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain.
A. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include: those corresponding to the general formula below:
in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, in some embodiments, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
B. a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula below:
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups , in some embodiments, comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Ri2 and R13, in some embodiments, denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 , in some embodiments, denotes a methyl group, and R15 , in some embodiments, denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;
C. a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula:
in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Risa, Rie, R19, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75).
The cationic charge such as cationic surfactants improve detangling, moisturizing and smoothness, presenting the function of a conditioning agent.
The total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant may vary but is typically about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, preferably about 0.2% to about 3.5% by
weight, preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
In various embodiments, the total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is about 0.1% to about 3.0% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 2.2%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
WATER
Water can be present in total amounts of about 95% or less, such as from about 95% to about 5% by weight, or about 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% or less, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In further embodiments, water can be present in an amount of about 95%, such as about 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Additionally, water can be present in the compositions of the present disclosure in the amount of from about 20% to about 95% by weight, from about 40% to about 90% by weight, or from about 50% to about 80% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the compositions.
In other embodiments, water can be present in the compositions of the present disclosure in the amount of at least about 95%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 45%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, organic solvents, actives, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to xanthan gum, poly Cio- 30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include salicylic acid and sodium benzoate.
Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
Suitable organic solvents include, but are not limited to alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In various embodiments, the organic solvent is present in a concentration from about 0.1 to 50% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, or from about 0.2 to about 12% by weight, or preferably from about 0.3 to about 10% by weight, and more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone and caprylyl methicone.
Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
Exemplary of polymers, include, but not limited to octenylsuccinate, xanthan gam, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and styrene/acrylates copolymer.
The additional ingredients, including the organic solvents, may represent from 10% to 90%, such as from 20% to 85% or such as from 30 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention.
In an embodiment, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition containing:
(a)at least one fatty amine selected from stearamidopropyl amine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine,
myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and present in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 4.5% by weight, or from about 0.6% to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.7% to about 3.5% by weight, or from about 0.8% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5%, by weight;
(b) liquid carnauba wax, present in an amount of from 0.2% to about 4.5% by weight, or from about 0.3% to about 3.0% by weight, or from about 0.4% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.4% to about 2% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.6% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.7% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.8% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.9% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight;
(c) at least one fatty alcohol selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and present in an amount of from about 2.0% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 6.5% by weight, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.5% by weight, and more preferably from about 4.0% to about 5.0% by weight; and
(d) water; and
(e) optionally, at least one oil compound of vegetal origin selected from shea butter, Karite Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), mango butter (Mangifera indica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, and mixtures thereof; all weights being based on the total amount of water.
In an embodiment, the composition above further comprises an organic acid.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a viscosity ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 mPa.s, or from about 1500 to about
4000 mPa.s, or from about 2000 to about 3500 mPa.s, or from about 2,650 to about 3,300 mPa.s, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a pH ranging from about 3.5 to about 6.5, or from about 3.5 to about 6, or from about 4 to about 5.5.
In an embodiment, the present invention is directed to a method of treating hair, the method comprising applying a cosmetic composition onto hair or contactin hair with a cosmetic composition, wherein the composition contains:
(a) at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24 in an amount of from 0.4% to 5.0% by weight;
(b) liquid carnauba wax present in an amount of from 0.2% to 5% by weight;
(c) at least one fatty alcohol; and
(d) water; all weights being based on the total weight of the composition. PROCESSES OF MANUFACTURING THE COMPOSITION The present invention further relates to a method for manufacturing the compositions of the present invention, but not limited to, comprising the following steps: Step (A)
1 - Add about at least 30% of water to a container and start heating to at least 50°C, such as from about 55-70°C or from about 55-65°C.
2- Add preservatives and mix at low medium shear.
3- Add at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24, at least one fatty alcohol, and optionally, at least one oily compound of vegetal origin. Mix at medium shear. Increase the Heat.
4- At least 70QC, such as from about 70-75QC, increase the shear to proceed to emulsification.
5- Start cooling and decrease shear.
6- Add other additional/optional ingredients.
7- Add remaining water
8- Add liquid carnauba wax (wax emulsion).
The method of the present invention can be further repeated subsequently, if desired or necessary.
WO 2021/151177 27 PCT/BR2020/050023
The process of manufacturing the compositions of the present invention is different from a traditional manufacturing process involving waxes. In the traditional process, the wax is usually added to the composition before emulsification at a temperature higher than the melting point of the wax, typically from about 80-85 °C. In the process of the present invention, the liquid wax or wax emulsion is added at the end after the mixture/composition has been cooled down (cold processing).
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.
EXAMPLES EXAMPLES 1 to 3
Suitable compositions according to the present invention, but not limited to, are as Examples 1 to 3, as follows:
* Available as a wax emulsion or liquid wax under the tradename HOSTAPUR CW from the company CLARIANT
EXAMPLE 4
EXAMPLE 5 The compositions of EX. 1 to EX. 3 (present invention) and EX. 4
(comparative) were submitted to an expert test, wherein six volunteers tested both products as a daily product. The results were measured/observed by the experts in wet and dry hair.
As a result, the compositions of EX. 1 to EX. 3 present on wet hair, less frizz, less volume, more curl regularity and smooth touch, over the composition of EX. 4.
Additionally, the compositions of EX. 1 to EX. 3 present on dry hair, more curl regularity, more curl definition, discipline, shine and less frizz, over the composition of EX. 4.
EXAMPLES 6 to 7
A Swatch Test was performed in order to compare the compositions of EX. 6 and EX.7, following the steps below: Step (a) (conventional sulfate-based Shampoo)
1 ) Wet swatch under tap water passing index and thumb fingers 5 times through the swatch.
2) Remove water excess with fingers (2 times)
3) Apply DOP shampoo (0,4g/swatch g) and rub it on swatch 6 times 4) Leave it for aboutl min
5) Rinse swatch under tap water passing index and thumb fingers 15 times through the swatch.
6) Remove water excess with fingers (2 times)
Step (b) (Compositions of EX. 6 and EX. 7) 1 ) Wet swatch under tap water passing index and thumb fingers 5 times through the swatch.
2) Remove water excess with fingers (2 times)
3) Apply each of the compositions of EX. 6 and EX. 7 (0,4g/swatch g) and rub it on swatch 6 times 4) Hold swatch with one hand and with the other create curl shape by moving hand up and down twice.
5) Let it dry
Step (c) (Shape breakage)
1) After 24h pass index and thumb fingers slowly through the swatch.
It was observed that after step (c), the hair treated or contacted with EX. 6 (with beeswax) presented less curl definition, heavier feel, and more frizz when compared to the hair treated or contacted with EX. 7 (with Carnauba). These results could be verified in FIG. 1.
EXAMPLE 7
A non-limitative example of the process for manufacturing the compositions of EX. 1 to EX.3, is as follows:
Step (A)
1 - Add about at least 30% of water to a container and start heating to at least 50°C, such as from about 55-70°C or from about 55-65°C.
2- Add preservatives and mix at low medium shear.
3- Add at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24, at least one fatty alcohol, and optionally, at least one oily compound of vegetal origin. Mix at medium shear. Increase the Heat.
4- At least 70QC, such as from about 70-75QC, increase the shear to proceed to emulsification.
5- Start cooling and decrease shear.
6- Add other additional ingredients
7- Add remaining water
8- Add liquid carnauba wax (wax emulsion).
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24 in an amount of from 0.4% to 5.0% by weight; (b) liquid carnauba wax present in an amount of from 0.2% to 5% by weight;
(c) at least one fatty alcohol; and
(d) water; all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
2. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 includes cationizable surfactants selected from compounds of the general structure
R4· A- R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, Rs is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, A is selected from:
and B is selected from
wherein Fte and Rzare the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and
wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof.
3. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty amine includes fatty amidoamine compounds chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
4. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from of cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1 -tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1 - octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1 -triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof, and wherein it is present in an amount of from 2.0% to 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
5. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it is free of silicones.
6. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it is absent of synthetic styling polymers.
7. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is the form of an emulsion for styling and caring for hair, in particular, curly hair.
8. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition further comprises additional ingredients selected from oily compounds of vegetal origin, cationic surfactants, organic solvents, organic acids, and mixtures thereof.
9. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the oily compound of vegetal origin comprises 30% to 60% of an alkyl group having a carbon chain length of at least Cie, and wherein it is present in an amount of from 0.3% to 1 .5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 2,650 to 3,300 mPa.s.
11. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition has a pH ranging from 3.5 to 6.5.
12. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24, present in an amount of from 0.5% to 4% by weight;
(b) liquid carnauba wax, present in an amount of from 0.3% to 3% by weight;
(c) from 2.0% to 8.0% of at least one fatty alcohol; and
(d) water; all weights being based on the total amount of water; for styling hair, caring for hair, manageability of the hair, controlling frizz in hair and volume of hair, wherein the composition is the form of an emulsion.
13. Use of a cosmetic composition, wherein it is used as a combing cream on hair.
14. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, wherein it comprises the steps of: i) heating a portion of the total amount of water required in the composition to at least 50°C ii) adding preservatives and mixing with low-medium shear; iii) adding at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24, at least one fatty alcohol, and optionally, a least one oily compound of vegetal origin, at 55-65 QC at medium shear;
iv) heating the mixture to at least 70°C and increasing shear to proceed emulsification; v) starting the cooling period and decreasing shear; vi) adding other additional/optional ingredients; vii) adding remaining water; viii) adding liquid carnauba wax.
15. Process, according to claim 14, wherein steps i) to vii) can be repeated subsequently, until achieve the cosmetic composition.
16. A method for styling hair, comprising the step of contacting the hair with a composition of claim 1.
17. The method according to claim 16, further comprising leaving the composition on the hair as a leave-on product.
18. The method according to claim 16, the method comprising imparting volume and/or styling and/or frizz control and/or caring to hair.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2020/050023 WO2021151177A1 (en) | 2020-01-31 | 2020-01-31 | Cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition and method for styling the hair |
| FR2002304A FR3107831A1 (en) | 2020-01-31 | 2020-03-09 | Cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition, process for preparing a cosmetic composition and method for styling hair |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2020/050023 WO2021151177A1 (en) | 2020-01-31 | 2020-01-31 | Cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition and method for styling the hair |
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| WO2021151177A1 true WO2021151177A1 (en) | 2021-08-05 |
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| PCT/BR2020/050023 Ceased WO2021151177A1 (en) | 2020-01-31 | 2020-01-31 | Cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition and method for styling the hair |
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| FR (1) | FR3107831A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2021151177A1 (en) |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US11737963B2 (en) | 2018-01-24 | 2023-08-29 | Kao Usa Inc. | Hair conditioner composition utilizing a heat styling responsive film |
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| EP1269974A1 (en) * | 2001-06-18 | 2003-01-02 | Unilever Plc | Hair styling compositions |
| US20190029949A1 (en) * | 2017-07-31 | 2019-01-31 | L'oreal | Hair-treatment composition and methods of use |
| US20190224108A1 (en) * | 2018-01-24 | 2019-07-25 | Kao Usa Inc. | Hair conditioner composition utilizing a heat styling responsive film |
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| LU87457A1 (en) * | 1989-02-24 | 1990-09-19 | Oreal | USE, AS A COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR HAIR, OF A WAX MICRODISPERSION, AND METHOD FOR TREATING HAIR WITH SUCH A COMPOSITION |
| FR2658829B1 (en) * | 1990-02-23 | 1993-12-24 | Oreal | FLUID COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING WAX MICRODISPERSION AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT, THEIR PREPARATION AND THEIR USE. |
| US9918913B2 (en) * | 2013-10-30 | 2018-03-20 | Natura Cosméticos S.A. | Nanostructured conditioning cosmetic composition, the use thereof in cosmetic preparations, and a conditioning shampoo |
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- 2020-01-31 WO PCT/BR2020/050023 patent/WO2021151177A1/en not_active Ceased
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| EP1269974A1 (en) * | 2001-06-18 | 2003-01-02 | Unilever Plc | Hair styling compositions |
| US20190029949A1 (en) * | 2017-07-31 | 2019-01-31 | L'oreal | Hair-treatment composition and methods of use |
| US20190224108A1 (en) * | 2018-01-24 | 2019-07-25 | Kao Usa Inc. | Hair conditioner composition utilizing a heat styling responsive film |
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| US11737963B2 (en) | 2018-01-24 | 2023-08-29 | Kao Usa Inc. | Hair conditioner composition utilizing a heat styling responsive film |
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