WO2020124234A1 - Water soluble mask - Google Patents
Water soluble mask Download PDFInfo
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- WO2020124234A1 WO2020124234A1 PCT/CA2019/051850 CA2019051850W WO2020124234A1 WO 2020124234 A1 WO2020124234 A1 WO 2020124234A1 CA 2019051850 W CA2019051850 W CA 2019051850W WO 2020124234 A1 WO2020124234 A1 WO 2020124234A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- mask
- agents
- glycol
- compatible
- glycogen
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Ceased
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0212—Face masks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/733—Alginic acid; Salts thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61M—DEVICES FOR INTRODUCING MEDIA INTO, OR ONTO, THE BODY; DEVICES FOR TRANSDUCING BODY MEDIA OR FOR TAKING MEDIA FROM THE BODY; DEVICES FOR PRODUCING OR ENDING SLEEP OR STUPOR
- A61M35/00—Devices for applying media, e.g. remedies, on the human body
Definitions
- This invention relates to facial masks.
- Cosmetic face masks normally comprise a carrier sheet impregnated with cosmetic ingredients or emulsions that are applied to the skin and, after a short period of time, peeled, rinsed or scrubbed from the skin.
- a mask comprising (phyto)glycogen, a compatible polysaccharide and a glycol.
- the compatible polysaccharide may be alginate, acacia gum, arabic gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, carrageenan, cellulose gum, chitosan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, pectin, scelrotium gum, sorbitol, tara gum, xantham gum or mixtures thereof.
- the glycol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1 ,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and pentylene glycol or mixtures thereof.
- the glycol is glycerin and, optionally, one or two of 1 ,3- propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and pentylene glycol.
- the compatible polysaccharide comprises low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in a ratio of 5:1 to 1 :5, preferably 3:2.
- the mask may further include a therapeutic agent selected from anti-acne agents, anti-fungal agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-microbial agents, antioxidants, anti-viral agents, sequestering agents, skin soothing and healing agents, topical anesthetics, enzymes and combinations thereof.
- a therapeutic agent selected from anti-acne agents, anti-fungal agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-microbial agents, antioxidants, anti-viral agents, sequestering agents, skin soothing and healing agents, topical anesthetics, enzymes and combinations thereof.
- the mask may further include a cosmetic agent selected from anti-cellulite agents, anti-wrinkle agents, artificial tanning agents, astringents, emollients, exfoliating agents, hydrating agents, lightening agents, pH adjusters, skin conditioners and moisturizers, skin feel modifiers, skin protectants, sunscreen actives, fragrances and perfumes, essential oils, polypeptides and combinations thereof.
- a cosmetic agent selected from anti-cellulite agents, anti-wrinkle agents, artificial tanning agents, astringents, emollients, exfoliating agents, hydrating agents, lightening agents, pH adjusters, skin conditioners and moisturizers, skin feel modifiers, skin protectants, sunscreen actives, fragrances and perfumes, essential oils, polypeptides and combinations thereof.
- the mask may further include an additive selected from anti-foaming agents, chelating agents, colouring agents and dyes, emulsifiers, foaming agents, humectants, hydrocolloids, light diffusers, opacifiers, optical brighteners and modifiers, particulates, pH adjusters, solvents, stabilisers, viscosity modifiers, and combinations thereof.
- an additive selected from anti-foaming agents, chelating agents, colouring agents and dyes, emulsifiers, foaming agents, humectants, hydrocolloids, light diffusers, opacifiers, optical brighteners and modifiers, particulates, pH adjusters, solvents, stabilisers, viscosity modifiers, and combinations thereof.
- the mask suitably includes: 25 - 30 % (phyto)glycogen; 15 - 30% compatible polysaccharide; 20 - 40% glycol; and optionally, 5 - 10% suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic ingredients; and optionally, 5 - 10% additives with any remainder being water.
- the mask consists of or consists essentially of: 25 - 30% by weight (phyto)glycogen; 15-30% by weight of between 1 and 3 compatible polysaccharides; 20-40% by weight of between 1 and 3 glycols; 2-13% by weight water; and optionally, 5-10% by weight suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic ingredients; and optionally, 5-10% by weight additives.
- the mask may be a single layer film, and in one embodiment is transparent or translucent.
- the mask substantially dissolves between 30 seconds and 20 minutes, preferably between 30 second and 5 minutes of application to damp skin.
- the mask contains ⁇ 15% by weight of non-compatible polysaccharides.
- a method of manufacturing a mask for application to skin comprising: casting an aqueous solution of mask ingredients, wherein the mask ingredients comprise (phyto)glycogen, compatible polysaccharide(s), glycol(s) and, optionally cosmetic or therapeutic ingredient(s) and/or additive(s) on a substrate; and heating the solution to evaporate water until a film is formed.
- the aqueous solution comprises about 9 parts water to about 1 part mask ingredients.
- the moisture content of the film is between 1 and 15%, preferably, between 2.5 and 12.5 %.
- the substrate may be a Teflon or silicone sheet or Teflon-coated or silicone shaped mold.
- Figure 1 shows a turbiscan measure of turbidity over time for compatible polysaccharide xanthan gum in a phytoglycogen and water solution, showing minimal change in transmittance over time.
- Figure 2 shows a turbiscan measure of turbidity over time for non-compatible polysaccharide caesalpina spinose gum in a phytoglycogen and water solution, showing changes in transmittance over time.
- Figures 3A and 3B shows pieces of a phytoglycogen and compatible polysaccharide film without glycol before (FIG. 3A) and after (FIG. 3B) a folding test.
- Figures 4A, 4B, 4C, 4D and 4E show a phytoglycogen and compatible polysaccharide film with glycol before (FIG. 4A), during (FIGS. 4B, 4C and 4D) and after (FIG. 4E) a fold test.
- a mask for application to the skin for cosmetic or therapeutic purposes. While such masks and, in particular, cosmetic masks, are generally used on the face, they may also be used on other body parts, such as the hands or feet.
- a cosmetic mask comprises one or more layers of a carrier - a structural sheet of non-soluble, woven or nonwoven fabric impregnated with suitable cosmetic ingredients.
- face masks can be emulsions that are applied for a short period of time followed by the removal of excess material typically by peeling the mask or scrubbing the mask off the skin. In both examples, excess material is lost and formulations contain a high amount of filler to ensure the stability of the formulation.
- face masks must be extremely pliable to fit the contours of the parts of the face
- the mask is a film comprised of (phyto)glycogen, compatible polysaccharide(s), glycol(s) and, optionally, suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic ingredients.
- the formulation allows for the production of self-supporting, flexible and thin film(s) which are suitable for easy application. When applied, the film gets absorbed by the skin and residual material can be easily washed off with water.
- the (phyto)glycogen facilitates the enhanced delivery of the other components. This enhanced delivery allows for a high concentration of bio-actives to be exposed to skin compared to current masks. Another benefit of this mask is that it can dissolve on the skin upon application of water, leaving no residue or waste.
- Glycogen is composed of molecules of a-D glucose chains having an average chain length of 11-12, with 1 4 linkage and branching point occurring at 1 6 and with a branching degree of about 6% to about 13%.
- Phytoglycogen has a similar structure but is manufactured from a plant-based starting material.“(Phyto)glycogen” is used to denote both phytoglycogen and glycogen.
- phytoglycogen is used, as it may offer benefits over the use of glycogen produced from an animal-based starting materials and, in particular, that it will be free of pathogenic bacteria, parasites, viruses and prions that may be associated with glycogen from animal sources.
- (phyto)glycogen includes both (phyto)glycogen derived from natural sources and synthetic (phyto)glycogen.
- synthetic phytoglycogen includes glycogen-like products prepared using enzymatic processes on plant-derived material e.g. starch.
- (phyto)glycogen used in any novel compositions and methods described herein can be obtained using any known method or be obtained from a commercial source, the commercial products and yields of most methods are highly polydisperse products that include both (phyto)glycogen particles, as well as other products and degradation products, which may render them less effective in the compositions and methods described herein.
- monodisperse phytoglycogen nanoparticles are used.
- the monodisperse phytoglycogen nanoparticles are PhytoSpherixTM manufactured by Mirexus Biotechnologies, Inc. The monodisperse and particulate nature of these nanoparticles are associated with properties that render them highly suitable for use in the described mask compositions.
- PDI can also be expressed through the distribution of the molecular weight of polymer and, in this embodiment, is defined as the ratio of M w to M n , where M w is the weight-average molar mass and M n is the number-average molar mass (hereafter this PDI measurement is referred to as PDI*).
- PDI* the number-average molar mass
- the (phyto)glycogen component comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of monodisperse (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles, having, in various embodiments, a PDI of less than about 0.3, less than about 0.2, less than about 0.15, less than about 0.10, or less than 0.05 as measured by DLS.
- the (phyto)glycogen nanoparticle component may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of monodisperse (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles having a PDI* of less than about 1.3, less than about 1.2, less than about 1.15, less than about 1.10, or less than 1.05 as measured by SEC MALS
- the (phyto)glycogen nanoparticle component comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles having an average particle diameter of between about 30 nm and about 150 nm.
- the phytoglycogen nanoparticles may have an average molecular weight of between about 4500 and 22000 kDa.
- the (phyto)glycogen is modified. Functionalization can be carried out on the surface of the nanoparticle, or on both the surface and the interior of the particle, but the structure of the (phyto)glycogen molecule as a single branched homopolymer is maintained. In one embodiment, the functionalization is carried out on the surface of the nanoparticle.
- the chemical character of (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles produced according to methods described above may be changed from their hydrophilic, slightly negatively charged native state to be positively and/or negatively charged, or to be partially or highly hydrophobic.
- Chemical processing of polysaccharides is well known in the art. See for example J.F Robyt, Essentials of Carbohydrate Chemistry, Springer, 1998; and M. Smith, and J. March, March’s Advanced Organic Chemistry: Reactions, Mechanisms, and Structure Advanced Organic Chemistry, Wiley, 2007.
- the nanoparticles can be either directly functionalized or indirectly, where one or more intermediate linkers or spacers can be used.
- the nanoparticles can be subjected to one or more than one functionalization step.
- (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles used in mask compositions as described herein are not functionalized.
- compatible polysaccharides as used herein are water soluble and compatible with (phyto)glycogen.
- Compatible polysaccharides are polysaccharides that mix intimately with (phyto)glycogen with minimal or no phase separation.
- Compatible polysaccharides may be readily identified according to methods provided in Example 1.
- Suitable polysaccharides include those identified in Table 1.
- One or more of the compatible polysaccharides of Table 1 may be used in the mask composition.
- a blend of 2 or 3 compatible polysaccharides are used. In preferred embodiments, these may be used in ratios of about 1 :1 or 1 :1 :1 , respectively.
- the mask should not contain substantial amounts of non-compatible polysaccharides and, in particular, non-compatible polysaccharides should not be present in quantities that interfere with the integrity of the mask.
- the mask includes less than 15%, preferably less than 10%, more preferably less than 5% and most preferably less than 1 % by weight of non-compatible polysaccharide.
- the mask is substantially free of non-compatible polysaccharides.
- Hyaluronic acid is a natural glycosaminoglycan that is a chief component of the extracellular matrix.
- the polysaccharide is a mixture of low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in a ratio of 5:1 to 1 :5, in one embodiment the polysaccharide is a mixture of low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in a ratio of 3:2.
- High Molecular Weight hyaluronic acid is hyaluronic acid suitably having a molecular weight 3 800 kDa; in one embodiment a molecular weight between 800 and 1200 kDa.
- Low Molecular Weight hyaluronic acid suitably has a molecular weight £ 50 kDa; in one embodiment between 8 and 15 kDa.
- Polysaccharides including hyaluronic acid, suitable for use in cosmetic formulations are commercially available.
- Suitable derivatives can include salts, esters, carboxylated, OSA-modified and cationized derivatives of these polysaccharides.
- Known derivatives of chitosan include e.g. chitosan succinamide and N- succinyl-chitosan.
- Known derivatives of alginate include e.g. calcium alginate and propylene glycol alginate.
- Known derivatives of hyaluronic acid include sodium hyaluronate.
- the mask further includes at least one glycol. Suitable glycols are provided in Table 2.
- the mask comprises between 25 and 30% (phyto)glycogen.
- the mask comprises between 15 and 30% compatible polysaccharide(s).
- the mask comprises between 20 and 40% glycol(s).
- the mask may include one or more cosmetic and therapeutic agents. In one embodiment, the mask further comprises 5 - 10% cosmetic or therapeutic ingredient(s).
- the mask does not include additional cosmetic or therapeutic agents.
- the mask further comprises 5 - 10% additive(s).
- the remainder of the mask suitably comprises water.
- Therapeutic agents may include anti-acne agents, anti-fungal agents, anti inflammatory agents, anti-microbial agents, antioxidants, anti-viral agents, sequestering agents, skin soothing and healing agents, topical anesthetics, enzymes and combinations thereof.
- Cosmetic agents may include anti-cellulite agents, anti-wrinkle agents, artificial tanning agents, astringents, emollients, exfoliating agents, hydrating agents, lightening agents, pH adjusters, skin conditioners and moisturizers, skin feel modifiers, skin protectants, sunscreen actives, fragrances and perfumes, essential oils, polypeptides and combinations thereof.
- Suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic agents include ethyl macadamiate, capric caprylic triglyceride, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, vitamin B3, vitamin B12, vitamin B5, tocopherol acetate, coco-caprylate, gojiberry extract, blueberry extract, laminaria ochroleuca extract, and hedychium coronarium root extract.
- Additives for use in the mask may include anti-foaming agents, chelating agents, colouring agents and dyes, emulsifiers, foaming agents, humectants, hydrocolloids, light diffusers, opacifiers, optical brighteners and modifiers, particulates, pH adjusters, solvents, stabilisers, viscosity modifiers, and combinations thereof.
- the mask is manufactured by casting an aqueous solution of (phyto)glycogen, compatible polysaccharide(s), glycol(s) and, optionally cosmetic or therapeutic ingredient(s) and/or additive(s) on a non-sticky substrate, suitably a silicone or Teflon sheet, and then heating the solution until a film is formed and free water has substantially or completely evaporated.
- a non-sticky substrate suitably a silicone or Teflon sheet
- the mask is comprised of a single layered film.
- the substrate may be a shaped mold to create a shaped mask such as one with eye, nose and/or mouth holes.
- films formed on sheets may be cut or stamped after they are formed.
- the substrate has a smooth surface that enables the formation of consistent films without wrinkling.
- the water is considered substantially evaporated when the mask has a consistency appropriate for handling and manipulation by the end user.
- the remaining moisture content is between 2 and 13 % by weight of the mask.
- the aqueous solution may be heated at a temperature of between about 40° and 80°C for between 4 and 30 hours.
- the aqueous solution is heated at a temperature of between 40°C and 50°C for a period of between 18 and 30 hours, more preferably between 22 and 26 hours.
- the aqueous solution is dried at a temperature of between 40°C and 45°C.
- the mask may be cast for a thickness of between about 2.5 mil and 150 mil, preferably between 20 and 70 mil and more preferably between 30 mil and 40 mil as this thickness can be both readily handled yet dissolves efficiently once applied.
- the mask may suitably be packaged in an vacuum packed tearable container or pouch for transportation and sale.
- a composition described herein may be provided in the form of dry powder or granulate, which may be used to produce a mask composition by being combined with the glycol component and water.
- kits comprising a first container containing a powder comprising (phyto)glycogen and compatible polysaccharide; a second container containing a glycol; and instructions for combining the contents of the containers to form one or more masks.
- the kit may further include a mask mold for receiving the combined contents of the containers for drying.
- the cosmetic mask in use, suitably applies the cosmetic mask on damp skin.
- the mask may be in the form of a liquid or gel that is applied using the hands.
- the composition is a spray on mask product or may be coated onto or impregnated into a product, e.g. a wipe, towlette, or sponge.
- the cosmetic mask is a single layer mask, which may be produced to conform to the shape of a face, which may have e.g. cut outs for the eyes, nostrils and mouth.
- the water-soluble face mask dissolves on the skin over a period of about 30 seconds to 20 minutes (depending on the specific formulation).
- the dissolution rate may be tuned by adjusting the mask composition and, in particular, increasing the amount of high molecular weight compatible polysaccharides and/or additives can slow the dissolution rate, while increasing the content of low molecular weight compatible polysaccharides and/or additives can speed up the dissolution rate.
- the dissolution time of a mask is important for consumer use.
- masks according to the present invention dissolve before the water has enough time to evaporate, which avoids undissolved pieces left on the skin of a user.
- films as described herein dissolve while in use over a short period of time, in some embodiments almost instantaneously.
- the masks as provided herein dissolve within 10 minutes of application, more preferably within 30 seconds to 5 minutes of application.
- 0.5 g of (phyto)glycogen is homogenized in a beaker at low speed (-10000 rpm) into 99g of distilled water at room temperature for approximately 30 seconds.
- a candidate polysaccharide or combination of polysaccharides is then added to the solution of water and (phyto)glycogen and homogenized at low speed for approximately 30 seconds. Edges of the beaker are scraped to ensure all of the polysaccharide is incorporated into the mixture.
- the solution is then homogenized for approximately 30 seconds at low speed.
- the solution is then centrifuged at 3000 rp for 10 minutes at 23°C.
- the beakers are then visually inspected for precipitate, with visual precipitate indicating a non-compatible polysaccharide and no visual precipitate indicating a compatible polysaccharide.
- 0.5 g of (phyto)glycogen is homogenized in a beaker at low speed into 99g of distilled water at room temperature for approximately 30 seconds.
- a candidate polysaccharide or combination of polysaccharides is then added to the solution of water and (phyto)glycogen and homogenized at low speed for approximately 30 seconds. Edges of the beaker are scraped to ensure all of the polysaccharide is incorporated into the mixture.
- the solution is then homogenized for approximately 30 seconds at low speed.
- the mixture is then placed in a turbiscan, which measures the turbidity of the solution, indicating any incompatibilities. Transmittance is measured over time (suitably in a range of between 2 and 12 minutes).
- a compatible polysaccharide mixture shows no variation in transmittance over time, while an incompatible mixture shows a change in transmittance over time indicating incompatibility.
- Example 1 a A compatible polysaccharide mixture shows no variation in transmittance over time
- Scelrotium gum, xanthum gum, acacia gum, caesalpina spinose gum, cellulose gum, carrageenan gum, guar gum, and konjac gum were tested according to method 1a and the results are shown in Table 3 below.
- Various masks were prepared according to the formulations provided below.
- the compatible polysaccharide or mixture of compatible polysaccharides was mixed in distilled water using a standard cosmetic mixer at 1500 rpm for 5-10 minutes.
- a slurry of phytoglycogen glycols were hand mixed in a separate beaker until smooth.
- the slurry was then added to the water mixture at 1500 rp for 10 - 15 minutes.
- the solution was cast on silicone or Teflon and placed in a 50°C oven for 24 hours or until a substantial amount of water had evaporated.
- the film was then peeled back by hand and examined.
- the tables below reflect the wet formulations (prior to evaporation).
- Polysaccharide blend refers to a combination of 2 or 3 different polysaccharides selected from acacia gum, alginate, carrageenan gum, cellulose gum (carboxymethyl cellulose), scelrotium gum and xanthan gum in ratios close to 1 :1 or 1 :1 :1 by weight.
- Glycol blend refers to a combination of 2 or 3 different glycols selected from glycerin, propanediol and butylene glycol in ratios close to 2 (glycerin): 1 and 2:1 :1.
- wet samples A through C shown in Table 24, 26 and 28 were prepared according to the following method: The compatible polysaccharide or mixture of compatible polysaccharides was mixed in distilled water using a standard cosmetic mixer at 1500 rpm for 5-10 minutes. A slurry of phytoglycogen and glycols was hand mixed in a separate beaker until smooth. The slurry was then added to the water mixture at 1500 rp for 10 - 15 minutes. Once homogenous, a slurry of surfactant and oil were mixed by hand. The oil and surfactant slurry was then added to the mixture at 800 rpm for 5-10 minutes.
- the mask in Figure 3A is made up of three parts, a., b. and c.
- a folding test was performed where the mask was folded as many times as possible. The mask must be able to return to its original shape and form without ripping or tearing.
- Figure 3A shows the film prior to the test (a larger piece could not be handled). It was not malleable and was extremely brittle.
- Piece c. ( Figure 3A) was used for the folding test as it was the largest piece available. During the first fold, the mask cracked and broke into six pieces; d., e., f., g., h., and i. seen in Figure 3B. Due to these results, the mask was declared a fail.
- Figure 4A shows the mask prior to folding.
- Figure 4B is an image of the mask with a fold across the top of the image.
- Figure 4C shows a second fold along the left side of the mask.
- Figure 4D shows a third fold along the right side.
- Figure 4E shows the mask after being unfolded. The mask returned to its original shape with no tearing or breaking.
- Example 6 Mask formulations with blend of low and high molecular weight compatible polysaccharides
- Masks were prepared having different ratios of high to low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (Tables 30 and 31) and were tested in Franz cell to gauge the time it takes for the mask to dissolve with distilled water. 5 drops of distilled water were placed on top of the mask and a stopwatch was used to time the dissolution process.
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Abstract
A water soluble mask comprising (phyto)glycogen, compatible polysaccharide(s), glycol(s) and, optionally, therapeutic or cosmetic agents is provided.
Description
WATER SOLUBLE MASK
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] This invention relates to facial masks.
BACKGROUND OF THE ART
[0002] Cosmetic face masks normally comprise a carrier sheet impregnated with cosmetic ingredients or emulsions that are applied to the skin and, after a short period of time, peeled, rinsed or scrubbed from the skin.
[0003] There is a need for mask compositions that are easy to use and limit waste.
BRIEF SUMMARY
[0004] In one aspect, there is provided a mask comprising (phyto)glycogen, a compatible polysaccharide and a glycol.
[0005] The compatible polysaccharide may be alginate, acacia gum, arabic gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, carrageenan, cellulose gum, chitosan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, pectin, scelrotium gum, sorbitol, tara gum, xantham gum or mixtures thereof.
[0006] The glycol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1 ,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and pentylene glycol or mixtures thereof.
[0007] In one embodiment, the glycol is glycerin and, optionally, one or two of 1 ,3- propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and pentylene glycol.
[0008] In one embodiment, the compatible polysaccharide comprises low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in a ratio of 5:1 to 1 :5, preferably 3:2.
[0009] The mask may further include a therapeutic agent selected from anti-acne agents, anti-fungal agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-microbial agents, antioxidants, anti-viral
agents, sequestering agents, skin soothing and healing agents, topical anesthetics, enzymes and combinations thereof.
[0010] The mask may further include a cosmetic agent selected from anti-cellulite agents, anti-wrinkle agents, artificial tanning agents, astringents, emollients, exfoliating agents, hydrating agents, lightening agents, pH adjusters, skin conditioners and moisturizers, skin feel modifiers, skin protectants, sunscreen actives, fragrances and perfumes, essential oils, polypeptides and combinations thereof.
[0011] The mask may further include an additive selected from anti-foaming agents, chelating agents, colouring agents and dyes, emulsifiers, foaming agents, humectants, hydrocolloids, light diffusers, opacifiers, optical brighteners and modifiers, particulates, pH adjusters, solvents, stabilisers, viscosity modifiers, and combinations thereof.
[0012] The mask suitably includes: 25 - 30 % (phyto)glycogen; 15 - 30% compatible polysaccharide; 20 - 40% glycol; and optionally, 5 - 10% suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic ingredients; and optionally, 5 - 10% additives with any remainder being water.
[0013] In one embodiment, the mask consists of or consists essentially of: 25 - 30% by weight (phyto)glycogen; 15-30% by weight of between 1 and 3 compatible polysaccharides; 20-40% by weight of between 1 and 3 glycols; 2-13% by weight water; and optionally, 5-10% by weight suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic ingredients; and optionally, 5-10% by weight additives.
[0014] The mask may be a single layer film, and in one embodiment is transparent or translucent.
[0015] The mask substantially dissolves between 30 seconds and 20 minutes, preferably between 30 second and 5 minutes of application to damp skin.
[0016] Suitably, the mask contains <15% by weight of non-compatible polysaccharides.
[0017] In another aspect, there is provided a method of manufacturing a mask for application to skin, comprising: casting an aqueous solution of mask ingredients, wherein the mask ingredients comprise (phyto)glycogen, compatible polysaccharide(s), glycol(s) and, optionally cosmetic or therapeutic ingredient(s) and/or additive(s) on a substrate; and heating
the solution to evaporate water until a film is formed. In one embodiment of the method, the aqueous solution comprises about 9 parts water to about 1 part mask ingredients. Suitably, the moisture content of the film is between 1 and 15%, preferably, between 2.5 and 12.5 %. The substrate may be a Teflon or silicone sheet or Teflon-coated or silicone shaped mold.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0018] Figure 1 shows a turbiscan measure of turbidity over time for compatible polysaccharide xanthan gum in a phytoglycogen and water solution, showing minimal change in transmittance over time.
[0019] Figure 2 shows a turbiscan measure of turbidity over time for non-compatible polysaccharide caesalpina spinose gum in a phytoglycogen and water solution, showing changes in transmittance over time.
[0020] Figures 3A and 3B shows pieces of a phytoglycogen and compatible polysaccharide film without glycol before (FIG. 3A) and after (FIG. 3B) a folding test.
[0021] Figures 4A, 4B, 4C, 4D and 4E show a phytoglycogen and compatible polysaccharide film with glycol before (FIG. 4A), during (FIGS. 4B, 4C and 4D) and after (FIG. 4E) a fold test.
[0022] DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0023] In one embodiment, there is provided a mask for application to the skin for cosmetic or therapeutic purposes. While such masks and, in particular, cosmetic masks, are generally used on the face, they may also be used on other body parts, such as the hands or feet.
[0024] Normally, a cosmetic mask comprises one or more layers of a carrier - a structural sheet of non-soluble, woven or nonwoven fabric impregnated with suitable cosmetic ingredients. Alternatively, face masks can be emulsions that are applied for a short period of time followed by the removal of excess material typically by peeling the mask or scrubbing the mask off the skin. In both examples, excess material is lost and formulations contain a high amount of filler to ensure the stability of the formulation.
[0025] For practical and comfort purposes, face masks must be extremely pliable to fit the contours of the parts of the face
[0026] The mask is a film comprised of (phyto)glycogen, compatible polysaccharide(s), glycol(s) and, optionally, suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic ingredients. The formulation allows for the production of self-supporting, flexible and thin film(s) which are suitable for easy application. When applied, the film gets absorbed by the skin and residual material can be easily washed off with water.
[0027] The (phyto)glycogen facilitates the enhanced delivery of the other components. This enhanced delivery allows for a high concentration of bio-actives to be exposed to skin compared to current masks. Another benefit of this mask is that it can dissolve on the skin upon application of water, leaving no residue or waste.
[0028] Glycogen is composed of molecules of a-D glucose chains having an average chain length of 11-12, with 1 4 linkage and branching point occurring at 1 6 and with a branching degree of about 6% to about 13%. Phytoglycogen has a similar structure but is manufactured from a plant-based starting material.“(Phyto)glycogen” is used to denote both phytoglycogen and glycogen. In one embodiment, phytoglycogen is used, as it may offer benefits over the use of glycogen produced from an animal-based starting materials and, in particular, that it will be free of pathogenic bacteria, parasites, viruses and prions that may be associated with glycogen from animal sources.
[0029] In one embodiment (phyto)glycogen includes both (phyto)glycogen derived from natural sources and synthetic (phyto)glycogen. As used herein “synthetic phytoglycogen” includes glycogen-like products prepared using enzymatic processes on plant-derived material e.g. starch.
[0030] While in one disclosed embodiment, (phyto)glycogen used in any novel compositions and methods described herein can be obtained using any known method or be obtained from a commercial source, the commercial products and yields of most methods are highly polydisperse products that include both (phyto)glycogen particles, as well as other products and degradation products, which may render them less effective in the compositions and methods described herein. In a preferred embodiment, monodisperse phytoglycogen nanoparticles are used. In one embodiment, the monodisperse phytoglycogen nanoparticles
are PhytoSpherix™ manufactured by Mirexus Biotechnologies, Inc. The monodisperse and particulate nature of these nanoparticles are associated with properties that render them highly suitable for use in the described mask compositions.
[0031] Methods of manufacturing monodisperse compositions of phytoglycogen are disclosed in the International patent application entitled“Phytoglycogen Nanoparticles and Methods of Manufacture Thereof”, published under the international application publication no WO2014/172786 and the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference in its entirety. Methods of manufacturing monodisperse compositions of glycogen are disclosed in United States patent application publication no. US 2010/0272639, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference in its entirety.
[0032] The polydispersity index (PDI) of a composition of nanoparticles can be determined by the dynamic light scattering (DLS) technique and, in this embodiment, PDI is determined as the square of the ratio of standard deviation to mean diameter (PDI = (o/d)2. PDI can also be expressed through the distribution of the molecular weight of polymer and, in this embodiment, is defined as the ratio of Mw to Mn, where Mw is the weight-average molar mass and Mn is the number-average molar mass (hereafter this PDI measurement is referred to as PDI*). In the first case, a monodisperse material would have a PDI of zero (0.0) and in the second case the PDI* would be 1.0.
[0033] In one embodiment, the (phyto)glycogen component comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of monodisperse (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles, having, in various embodiments, a PDI of less than about 0.3, less than about 0.2, less than about 0.15, less than about 0.10, or less than 0.05 as measured by DLS. The (phyto)glycogen nanoparticle component may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of monodisperse (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles having a PDI* of less than about 1.3, less than about 1.2, less than about 1.15, less than about 1.10, or less than 1.05 as measured by SEC MALS
[0034] In one embodiment, the (phyto)glycogen nanoparticle component comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles having an average particle diameter of between about 30 nm and about 150 nm. In one embodiment, the phytoglycogen nanoparticles may have an average molecular weight of between about 4500 and 22000 kDa.
[0035] In one embodiment, the (phyto)glycogen is modified. Functionalization can be carried out on the surface of the nanoparticle, or on both the surface and the interior of the particle, but the structure of the (phyto)glycogen molecule as a single branched homopolymer is maintained. In one embodiment, the functionalization is carried out on the surface of the nanoparticle.
[0036] As will be apparent to persons of skill in the art, the chemical modifications should be non-irritating when in contact with human skin.
[0037] In some embodiments, the chemical character of (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles produced according to methods described above may be changed from their hydrophilic, slightly negatively charged native state to be positively and/or negatively charged, or to be partially or highly hydrophobic. Chemical processing of polysaccharides is well known in the art. See for example J.F Robyt, Essentials of Carbohydrate Chemistry, Springer, 1998; and M. Smith, and J. March, March’s Advanced Organic Chemistry: Reactions, Mechanisms, and Structure Advanced Organic Chemistry, Wiley, 2007.
[0038] Methods of functionalizing (phyto)glycogen are further provided in WO2014/172786, which is incorporated by reference in its entirety
[0039] The nanoparticles can be either directly functionalized or indirectly, where one or more intermediate linkers or spacers can be used. The nanoparticles can be subjected to one or more than one functionalization step.
[0040] In one embodiment, (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles used in mask compositions as described herein are not functionalized.
[0041] The compatible polysaccharides as used herein are water soluble and compatible with (phyto)glycogen. Compatible polysaccharides are polysaccharides that mix intimately with (phyto)glycogen with minimal or no phase separation. Compatible polysaccharides may be readily identified according to methods provided in Example 1.
[0042] Suitable polysaccharides include those identified in Table 1.
Table 1. Water Soluble
Compatible Polysaccharides
[0043] One or more of the compatible polysaccharides of Table 1 may be used in the mask composition. In some embodiments, a blend of 2 or 3 compatible polysaccharides are used. In preferred embodiments, these may be used in ratios of about 1 :1 or 1 :1 :1 , respectively.
[0044] The mask should not contain substantial amounts of non-compatible polysaccharides and, in particular, non-compatible polysaccharides should not be present in quantities that interfere with the integrity of the mask. In one embodiment, the mask includes less than 15%, preferably less than 10%, more preferably less than 5% and most preferably
less than 1 % by weight of non-compatible polysaccharide. In one embodiment, the mask is substantially free of non-compatible polysaccharides.
[0045] Hyaluronic acid is a natural glycosaminoglycan that is a chief component of the extracellular matrix. In one embodiment, the polysaccharide is a mixture of low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in a ratio of 5:1 to 1 :5, in one embodiment the polysaccharide is a mixture of low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in a ratio of 3:2. High Molecular Weight hyaluronic acid is hyaluronic acid suitably having a molecular weight ³ 800 kDa; in one embodiment a molecular weight between 800 and 1200 kDa. Low Molecular Weight hyaluronic acid suitably has a molecular weight £ 50 kDa; in one embodiment between 8 and 15 kDa.
[0046] Polysaccharides, including hyaluronic acid, suitable for use in cosmetic formulations are commercially available.
[0047] As mentioned above, methods of chemically processing polysaccharides are well- known [e.g. J.F Robyt, Essentials of Carbohydrate Chemistry, Springer, 1998; and M. Smith, and J. March, March’s Advanced Organic Chemistry: Reactions, Mechanisms, and Structure Advanced Organic Chemistry, Wiley, 2007] and methods of preparing derivatives of the compatible polysaccharides will be known to those of skill in the art. Suitable derivatives can include salts, esters, carboxylated, OSA-modified and cationized derivatives of these polysaccharides. Known derivatives of chitosan include e.g. chitosan succinamide and N- succinyl-chitosan. Known derivatives of alginate include e.g. calcium alginate and propylene glycol alginate. Known derivatives of hyaluronic acid include sodium hyaluronate.
[0048] The mask further includes at least one glycol. Suitable glycols are provided in Table 2.
[0049] In one embodiment, the mask comprises between 25 and 30% (phyto)glycogen.
[0050] In one embodiment, the mask comprises between 15 and 30% compatible polysaccharide(s).
[0051] In one embodiment, the mask comprises between 20 and 40% glycol(s).
[0052] The mask may include one or more cosmetic and therapeutic agents. In one embodiment, the mask further comprises 5 - 10% cosmetic or therapeutic ingredient(s).
[0053] Phytoglycogen nanoparticles themselves possess anti-aging, brightening and hydrating properties. Thus, in one embodiment, the mask does not include additional cosmetic or therapeutic agents.
[0054] In one embodiment, the mask further comprises 5 - 10% additive(s).
[0055] The remainder of the mask suitably comprises water.
[0056] Therapeutic agents may include anti-acne agents, anti-fungal agents, anti inflammatory agents, anti-microbial agents, antioxidants, anti-viral agents, sequestering agents, skin soothing and healing agents, topical anesthetics, enzymes and combinations thereof.
[0057] Cosmetic agents may include anti-cellulite agents, anti-wrinkle agents, artificial tanning agents, astringents, emollients, exfoliating agents, hydrating agents, lightening agents, pH adjusters, skin conditioners and moisturizers, skin feel modifiers, skin protectants, sunscreen actives, fragrances and perfumes, essential oils, polypeptides and combinations thereof.
[0058] Suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic agents include ethyl macadamiate, capric caprylic triglyceride, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, vitamin B3, vitamin B12, vitamin B5, tocopherol acetate, coco-caprylate, gojiberry extract, blueberry extract, laminaria ochroleuca extract, and hedychium coronarium root extract.
[0059] Additives for use in the mask may include anti-foaming agents, chelating agents, colouring agents and dyes, emulsifiers, foaming agents, humectants, hydrocolloids, light diffusers, opacifiers, optical brighteners and modifiers, particulates, pH adjusters, solvents, stabilisers, viscosity modifiers, and combinations thereof.
[0060] In one embodiment, the mask is manufactured by casting an aqueous solution of (phyto)glycogen, compatible polysaccharide(s), glycol(s) and, optionally cosmetic or therapeutic ingredient(s) and/or additive(s) on a non-sticky substrate, suitably a silicone or Teflon sheet, and then heating the solution until a film is formed and free water has substantially or completely evaporated. In one embodiment, the mask is comprised of a single layered film. Rather than a sheet, the substrate may be a shaped mold to create a shaped mask such as one with eye, nose and/or mouth holes. Alternatively, films formed on sheets may be cut or stamped after they are formed. Ideally, the substrate has a smooth surface that enables the formation of consistent films without wrinkling.
[0061] In this context, the water is considered substantially evaporated when the mask has a consistency appropriate for handling and manipulation by the end user. In one embodiment, the remaining moisture content is between 2 and 13 % by weight of the mask.
[0062] Suitably, the aqueous solution may be heated at a temperature of between about 40° and 80°C for between 4 and 30 hours. Preferably, the aqueous solution is heated at a temperature of between 40°C and 50°C for a period of between 18 and 30 hours, more preferably between 22 and 26 hours. As higher temperatures may raise the risk of bacterial growth, in a preferred embodiment, the aqueous solution is dried at a temperature of between 40°C and 45°C.
[0063] Ideal thicknesses based on handling properties and dissolution rate once applied depend on the particular formulations used, however, suitably, the mask may be cast for a thickness of between about 2.5 mil and 150 mil, preferably between 20 and 70 mil and more
preferably between 30 mil and 40 mil as this thickness can be both readily handled yet dissolves efficiently once applied.
[0064] The mask may suitably be packaged in an vacuum packed tearable container or pouch for transportation and sale.
[0065] In one embodiment, a composition described herein may be provided in the form of dry powder or granulate, which may be used to produce a mask composition by being combined with the glycol component and water.
[0066] In one embodiment, there is provided a kit comprising a first container containing a powder comprising (phyto)glycogen and compatible polysaccharide; a second container containing a glycol; and instructions for combining the contents of the containers to form one or more masks. The kit may further include a mask mold for receiving the combined contents of the containers for drying.
[0067] In use, a user suitably applies the cosmetic mask on damp skin. In one embodiment, the mask may be in the form of a liquid or gel that is applied using the hands. In one embodiment, the composition is a spray on mask product or may be coated onto or impregnated into a product, e.g. a wipe, towlette, or sponge. In one embodiment, the cosmetic mask is a single layer mask, which may be produced to conform to the shape of a face, which may have e.g. cut outs for the eyes, nostrils and mouth.
[0068] Upon application, water is then added to the mask and the user leaves the mask on for a short period of time. Upon solubilization, the structural components, (phyto)glycogen nanoparticles, polysaccharides and, glycols, penetrate the skin allowing for the delivery of a high concentration of cosmetic or therapeutic agents.
[0069] In one embodiment, the water-soluble face mask dissolves on the skin over a period of about 30 seconds to 20 minutes (depending on the specific formulation). The dissolution rate may be tuned by adjusting the mask composition and, in particular, increasing the amount of high molecular weight compatible polysaccharides and/or additives can slow the dissolution rate, while increasing the content of low molecular weight compatible polysaccharides and/or additives can speed up the dissolution rate.
[0070] The dissolution time of a mask is important for consumer use. Suitably, masks according to the present invention dissolve before the water has enough time to evaporate, which avoids undissolved pieces left on the skin of a user. Unlike film masks currently available on the market and, in particular, those having a polysaccharide component, films as described herein dissolve while in use over a short period of time, in some embodiments almost instantaneously. In preferred embodiments, the masks as provided herein dissolve within 10 minutes of application, more preferably within 30 seconds to 5 minutes of application.
[0071] Unless excluded for compatibility reasons, the features of one embodiment may be combined with another. The use herein of the singular, including use of the indefinite article, includes the plural, except when the context indicates otherwise.
Example 1. Identification of compatible polysaccharides
[0072] The compatibility of a polysaccharide for use in mask formulations described herein may be assessed by Methods 1a and 1 b described below.
Method 1a.
[0073] 0.5 g of (phyto)glycogen is homogenized in a beaker at low speed (-10000 rpm) into 99g of distilled water at room temperature for approximately 30 seconds. A candidate polysaccharide or combination of polysaccharides is then added to the solution of water and (phyto)glycogen and homogenized at low speed for approximately 30 seconds. Edges of the beaker are scraped to ensure all of the polysaccharide is incorporated into the mixture. The solution is then homogenized for approximately 30 seconds at low speed. The solution is then centrifuged at 3000 rp for 10 minutes at 23°C. The beakers are then visually inspected for precipitate, with visual precipitate indicating a non-compatible polysaccharide and no visual precipitate indicating a compatible polysaccharide.
Method 1b.
[0074] 0.5 g of (phyto)glycogen is homogenized in a beaker at low speed into 99g of distilled water at room temperature for approximately 30 seconds. A candidate polysaccharide or combination of polysaccharides is then added to the solution of water and (phyto)glycogen and homogenized at low speed for approximately 30 seconds. Edges of the beaker are scraped to ensure all of the polysaccharide is incorporated into the mixture. The solution is then homogenized for approximately 30 seconds at low speed. The mixture is then placed in a turbiscan, which measures the turbidity of the solution, indicating any incompatibilities. Transmittance is measured over time (suitably in a range of between 2 and 12 minutes). A compatible polysaccharide mixture shows no variation in transmittance over time, while an incompatible mixture shows a change in transmittance over time indicating incompatibility.
Example 1 a.
[0075] Scelrotium gum, xanthum gum, acacia gum, caesalpina spinose gum, cellulose gum, carrageenan gum, guar gum, and konjac gum were tested according to method 1a and the results are shown in Table 3 below.
Example 1 b.
[0076] The compatibility of xanthan gum and caesalpina spinose gum were evaluated according to Method 1 b. Samples of 20 ml_ of each mixture were tested and a 880 nm LED light was used. As shown in Figures 1 and 2, the transmittance of the caesalpina spinose gum changed over time, indicating incompatibility, whereas the transmittance graph for the xanthan gum showed substantially no change in transmittance over time, indicating compatibility.
Example 2. Sample mask with high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid
[0077] Mask Procedure to prepare a 100g solution and ~ 0.5g mask sample
[0078] 0.2 g of HMW hyaluronic acid and 0.3 g of LMW hyaluronic acid were mixed with
97.4 g of water until a clear solution was formed. Then, 0.5 g of phytoglycogen nanoparticles was dispersed in 0.3 g 1 ,3-propanediol, and 0.3 g of glycerin until uniform slurry was formed. The final solution was made by mixing the slurry with hyaluronic acid solution until a uniform solution was formed. Solution was centrifuged for 2 minutes at 4500 rpm to remove excess air to prevent bubbles from being present in the final mask. The final solution was cast into a silicone sheet (9 ¼” x 10” ) and placed in an oven at 50°C for 24 hrs. Then, newly formed film was left to sit at ambient temperature for 15 minutes prior to removal from sheet. The resulting film was clear, flexible and water-soluble.
Example 3. Mask formulations
[0079] Various masks were prepared according to the formulations provided below. The compatible polysaccharide or mixture of compatible polysaccharides was mixed in distilled water using a standard cosmetic mixer at 1500 rpm for 5-10 minutes. A slurry of phytoglycogen glycols were hand mixed in a separate beaker until smooth. The slurry was then added to the water mixture at 1500 rp for 10 - 15 minutes. Once homogenous, the solution was cast on silicone or Teflon and placed in a 50°C oven for 24 hours or until a substantial amount of water had evaporated. The film was then peeled back by hand and examined. The tables below reflect the wet formulations (prior to evaporation). “Polysaccharide blend” refers to a combination of 2 or 3 different polysaccharides selected from acacia gum, alginate, carrageenan gum, cellulose gum (carboxymethyl cellulose), scelrotium gum and xanthan gum in ratios close to 1 :1 or 1 :1 :1 by weight. “Glycol blend” refers to a combination of 2 or 3 different glycols selected from glycerin, propanediol and butylene glycol in ratios close to 2 (glycerin): 1 and 2:1 :1.
Table 4.
Table 5.
Example 4. Percent moisture loss in finished masks.
[0080] Wet samples A through C shown in Table 24, 26 and 28 were prepared according to the following method: The compatible polysaccharide or mixture of compatible polysaccharides was mixed in distilled water using a standard cosmetic mixer at 1500 rpm for 5-10 minutes. A slurry of phytoglycogen and glycols was hand mixed in a separate beaker until smooth. The slurry was then added to the water mixture at 1500 rp for 10 - 15 minutes. Once homogenous, a slurry of surfactant and oil were mixed by hand. The oil and surfactant slurry was then added to the mixture at 800 rpm for 5-10 minutes. Once homogenous, the solutions were cast on silicone or Teflon and placed in a 50°C oven for 24 hours or until a substantial amount of water had evaporated. The film was then peeled back by hand and a sample was placed on a metal dish, to be processed using a moisture analysis for residual moisture. The temperature was set to 105°C and 30 minutes. Analysis is complete when the percent of moisture reading starts to repeat itself, indicating the machine has measured all of the moisture. The experiment was performed in triplicate. The amount of moisture left in the film after the drying process is shown in Tables 25, 27 and 29 (Samples A, B and C, respectively).
Table 24.
[0081] Comparative example (no glycol)
[0082] 1 g of carboxymethyl cellulose was mixed into 85 g of distilled water using a standard cosmetic mixer at 1500 rpm for 5-10 minutes. Once cellulose dispersed, 4 g of sorbitol was added to the mixture at the same speed until mixture was uniform. Finally, 10 g of phytoglycogen was added to the solution and mixed at 1500 rp for 10 - 15 minutes. Once homogenous, solution was cast into a silicone pan and placed in a 50°C oven for ~ 24 hours until a substantial amount of water had evaporated. The film was then peeled back by hand and examined. Results are shown below in Figures 3A and 3B.
[0083] The mask in Figure 3A is made up of three parts, a., b. and c. A folding test was performed where the mask was folded as many times as possible. The mask must be able to return to its original shape and form without ripping or tearing. Figure 3A shows the film prior to the test (a larger piece could not be handled). It was not malleable and was extremely brittle. Piece c. (Figure 3A) was used for the folding test as it was the largest piece available. During the first fold, the mask cracked and broke into six pieces; d., e., f., g., h., and i. seen in Figure 3B. Due to these results, the mask was declared a fail.
[0084] Mask with glycols
[0085] 2.5 g of carboxymethyl cellulose was mixed into 89 g of distilled water using a standard cosmetic mixer at 1500 rpm for 5-10 minutes. Once cellulose was dispersed, 1 g of sorbitol was added to the mixture at the same speed until mixture was uniform. A slurry of 2.5 g of phytoglycogen, 2.5 g of propanediol and 2.5 g of glycerin was hand mixed in a separate beaker until smooth. The slurry was then added to the water mixture at 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 minutes. Once homogenous, solution was cast into a silicone pan and placed in a 50°C oven for ~ 24 hours until a substantial amount of water had evaporated.. The film was then peeled back by hand and examined.
[0086] Figure 4A shows the mask prior to folding. Figure 4B is an image of the mask with a fold across the top of the image. Figure 4C shows a second fold along the left side of the mask. Figure 4D shows a third fold along the right side. Lastly, Figure 4E shows the mask after being unfolded. The mask returned to its original shape with no tearing or breaking.
Example 6. Mask formulations with blend of low and high molecular weight compatible polysaccharides
[0087] Masks were prepared having different ratios of high to low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (Tables 30 and 31) and were tested in Franz cell to gauge the time it takes for the mask to dissolve with distilled water. 5 drops of distilled water were placed on top of the mask and a stopwatch was used to time the dissolution process.
Table 30
[0088] Dissolution time: 39.5 seconds Table 31
Claims
1. A mask comprising (phyto)glycogen, a compatible polysaccharide and a glycol.
2. The mask of claim 1 , wherein the compatible polysaccharide comprises alginate, acacia gum, arabic gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, carrageenan, cellulose gum, chitosan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, pectin, scelrotium gum, sorbitol, tara gum, xantham gum or mixtures thereof.
3. The mask of claim 2, wherein the compatible polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of carboxymethyl cellulose, carrageenan, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hyaluronic acid, alginate and mixtures thereof.
4. The mask of any one of claims 1-3, wherein the glycol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1 ,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and pentylene glycol or mixtures thereof.
5. The mask of claim 4, wherein the glycol is glycerin and, optionally, one or two of 1 ,3- propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and pentylene glycol.
6. The mask of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the compatible polysaccharide comprises low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in a ratio of 5:1 to 1 :5, preferably 3:2.
7. The mask of any one of claims 1 to 6 further comprising a therapeutic agent selected from anti-acne agents, anti-fungal agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-microbial agents, antioxidants, anti-viral agents, sequestering agents, skin soothing and healing agents, topical anesthetics, enzymes and combinations thereof.
8. The mask of any one of claims 1 to 7 further comprising a cosmetic agent selected from anti-cellulite agents, anti-wrinkle agents, artificial tanning agents, astringents, emollients, exfoliating agents, hydrating agents, lightening agents, pH adjusters, skin conditioners and moisturizers, skin feel modifiers, skin protectants, sunscreen actives, fragrances and perfumes, essential oils, polypeptides and combinations thereof.
9. The mask of any one of claims 1 to 8 further comprising an additive selected from anti foaming agents, chelating agents, colouring agents and dyes, emulsifiers, foaming agents, humectants, hydrocolloids, light diffusers, opacifiers, optical brighteners and modifiers, particulates, pH adjusters, solvents, stabilisers, viscosity modifiers, and combinations thereof.
10. The mask of any one of claims 1 to 9 comprising:
25 - 30 % (phyto)glycogen;
15 - 30% compatible polysaccharide;
20 - 40% glycol; and optionally,
5 - 10% suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic ingredients; and optionally,
5 - 10% additives. with any remainder being water.
11. The mask of any one of claims 1 to 9 consisting or consisting essentially of:
25 - 30% by weight (phyto)glycogen;
15-30% by weight of between 1 and 3 compatible polysaccharides;
20-40% by weight of between 1 and 3 glycols;
2-13% by weight water; and optionally, 5-10% by weight suitable cosmetic and/or therapeutic ingredients; and optionally, 5-10% by weight additives.
12. The mask according to any one of claims 1 to 11 , wherein the mask is a single layer film.
13. The mask according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the mask is transparent or translucent.
14. The mask according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the mask substantially dissolves between 30 seconds and 20 minutes, preferably between 30 second and 5 minutes of application to damp skin.
15. The mask according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the mask contains <15% by weight of non-compatible polysaccharides.
16. A method of manufacturing a mask for application to skin, comprising: casting an aqueous solution of mask ingredients, wherein the mask ingredients comprise (phyto)glycogen, compatible polysaccharide(s), glycol(s) and, optionally cosmetic or therapeutic ingredient(s) and/or additive(s) on a substrate; and heating the solution to evaporate water until a film is formed.
17. The method of claim 16, wherein the aqueous solution comprises about 9 parts water to about 1 part mask ingredients.
18. The method of claims 16 or 17 wherein the moisture content of the film is between 1 and 15%, preferably, between 2.5 and 12.5 %.
19. The method of any one of claims 16-18, wherein the substrate is a Teflon or silicone sheet or Teflon-coated or silicone shaped mold.
20. Use of the method of any one of claims 16 to 20 for manufacturing a mask according to any one of claims 1 to 15.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US201862781400P | 2018-12-18 | 2018-12-18 | |
| US62/781,400 | 2018-12-18 |
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| WO2020124234A1 true WO2020124234A1 (en) | 2020-06-25 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| PCT/CA2019/051850 Ceased WO2020124234A1 (en) | 2018-12-18 | 2019-12-18 | Water soluble mask |
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| WO (1) | WO2020124234A1 (en) |
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