WO2019243184A1 - Bi-phase composition and use thereof in a non-rinse product for disentangling all hair types - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to new cosmetic compositions for hair care, in particular for disentangling dry or wet hair, said compositions being in a stable bi-phase form which consists of an aqueous phase and an emulsified phase of the water-in-oil type, the emulsified phase comprising at least one alkane having from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, at least one emulsifying agent and at least one quaternary ammonium, and to a method for preparing said compositions.

Description

 Two-phase composition and its use in leave-in

 to untangle all types of hair

The present invention relates to a two-phase composition comprising two distinct immiscible phases: an aqueous phase and a water-in-oil emulsified phase, which can be easily dispersed in one another by stirring and gradually phase shifting after stopping the stirring. The invention also relates to a process for preparing this composition, and its use for detangling without rinsing all types of hair, dry or damp.

The compositions for cosmetic use made up of two distinct phases, in particular of a distinct aqueous phase and of an oily phase and not emulsified one inside the other at rest, are generally designated under the term of “two-phase compositions”. are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one inside the other. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, whereas, in the emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore multiple, these interfaces generally being stabilized by emulsifying surfactants and / or emulsifying polymers. The use of two-phase compositions requires prior agitation to form an extemporaneous dispersion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a uniform application of the two x phases, but such that at rest, the two phases separate and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known by the term "phase shift".

 A phase shift (or demixing) of the two phases after their use constitutes one of the qualities sought for two-phase compositions. Indeed, obtaining a phase shift is desirable for various reasons, in particular because a poor separation of the two phases is perceived as being unsightly by the users.

 The use, in two-phase compositions, of silicones such as for example cyclopentasiloxane, in a suitable quantity can make it possible to obtain two-phase compositions made up of two distinct immiscible phases which form, after stirring, an emulsion, while keeping the properties sought for two-phase compositions, that is to say a phase shift in two phases.

 Two-phase silicone-based compositions have already been described for example in documents EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, in particular for removing makeup from the eyes.

In addition, consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic products formed from natural constituents or of natural origin, in particular products that do not contain silicone compounds, which have become undesirable for environmental or regulatory reasons.

 Document FR 2 939 662 proposes in particular two-phase compositions based on non-silicone oils consisting of two distinct immiscible phases which form, after stirring, an emulsion. A rapid phase shift in two transparent phases with a clean interface then takes place. However, depending on the non-silicone oils used, small droplets may form which remain attached to the walls of the transparent container, both at the aqueous phase and at the fatty phase. This phenomenon is visually unacceptable.

There therefore remains the need for a two-phase composition consisting of two distinct immiscible phases, being free or substantially free of silicone and which, after stirring, gives a single phase: an emulsion, while retaining the properties sought for the two-phase compositions, that is to say a phase shift in two phases, a clear interface after returning to rest, without the appearance of droplets which remain attached to the walls of the transparent container.

The Applicant has also sought a two-phase composition free or substantially free of silicone having the same advantages as a two-phase composition containing silicones, namely a good detangling power and a sheathing effect on all types of hair without greasing the hair.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that it is possible to obtain a two-phase composition free or substantially free of silicone which, after stirring, gives a single phase: an emulsion of white color and which is again released in two phases, a transparent aqueous phase and a white water-in-oil emulsified phase, having a perfectly clear interface and without the appearance of droplets which remain attached to the walls of the transparent container. This effect is obtained by using in the emulsified phase the combination of at least one alkane comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, at least one emulsifier and at least one quaternary ammonium.

The Applicant has thus developed a new two-phase capillary composition free or substantially free of silicone, having a good detangling power and a sheathing effect on all types of hair, without greasing said hair.

More particularly, the subject of the invention is a two-phase composition comprising an aqueous phase and a water-in-oil emulsified phase; said phase emulsified comprising at least one alkane comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, at least one emulsifier and at least one quaternary ammonium.

 The composition according to the invention is a hair composition intended to be applied in a leave-in condition on all types of hair, dry or damp, as a detangling treatment.

 The two-phase composition according to the invention comprises a water-in-oil emulsified phase of white color and a transparent aqueous phase which are distinct from one another and superimposed on each other at rest. Typically, the emulsified phase is above the aqueous phase and said two phases, at rest, are separated by a single interface, which is substantially planar, and clear. When agitated, one phase is dispersed in the other phase in a stable manner, in the form of droplets, the interfaces between the two phases then being multiple. The mixture obtained forms an extemporaneous dispersion of the emulsion in the white aqueous phase. The dispersion is then ready to be applied, and when it is again at rest, the two phases gradually separate and return to their initial state. After approximately 24 hours of rest, the composition regains its two-phase appearance and after approximately 72 hours the aqueous phase becomes transparent again and the emulsified phase is white.

The transparency of the aqueous phase can be checked visually, or by measuring its turbidity, in a conventional manner in itself.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water.

 The amount of water can represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

 The water used can be demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, blueberry water, chamomile water or linden water.

The aqueous phase may represent from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase according to the invention is also preferably free or substantially free of polyols. By "substantially" is meant a polyol concentration of less than 0.2% relative to the total weight of the composition. The small amount of polyols or its absence makes it possible to avoid the formation of a three-phase composition.

Emulsified phase

According to the invention, the emulsified phase is a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion. The aqueous phase can represent from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsified phase. The amount of oil can represent from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsified phase.

The emulsified phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkane comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 15 carbon atoms, at least one emulsifier and at least one quaternary ammonium.

 The emulsified phase can represent from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, in the emulsified phase, the alkane (s) comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms are chosen from: dodecane, C13-C15 alkane and C15-C19 alkane. More particularly, the composition comprises a mixture of alkanes: such as dodecane and C13-C15 alkane. Said alkanes are raw materials of plant origin having high volatility, a dry feel, and good properties on the hair, including shine and detangling. These alkanes also allow the composition to be easily applied to the hair by spraying.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of alkane is between 2% and 36% by weight, preferably between 14% and 22%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This alkane content has the advantage of not weighing down and / or regreasing the hair.

In particular, in the emulsified phase, the emulsifier is of the water in oil type. According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier is of the water in oil type, the HLB of which varies from 4 to 6.

By HLB is meant the hydrophilic / lipophilic balance of said emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water-in-oil emulsifier is chosen from polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6-stearate, polyglyceryl-10-myristate, polyglyceryl -2- dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-10-heptaoxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate. Preferably, the composition comprises as emulsifier: polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (HLB = 5). The emulsifier makes it possible to obtain a stable emulsion of part of the aqueous phase; in other words, the emulsified phase of the composition is stable (water-in-oil emulsion) and the aqueous phase situated in the lower part of the composition is transparent.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of emulsifier may be at least 0.01% and is less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, in the emulsified phase, the quaternary ammonium is chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, diketyldimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride and palmitamidopropyltimonium chloride. Preferably, the composition comprises as quaternary ammonium: cetrimonium chloride. Quaternary ammonium has the advantage of having a good detangling power on all types of hair and of having an anti-static effect. It makes it possible to obtain a “two-phase” composition, in other words an emulsion of the composition which is stable over time. According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of quaternary ammonium is between 0.1 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Too much quaternary ammonium should not be used in order to comply with certain regulations on leave-in hair products.

The Applicant has found that the combination of at least one alkane comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, at least one emulsifier and at least one quaternary ammonium diluted in water allows in the two-phase composition according to l invention after stirring thereof to obtain a single phase: an extemporaneous dispersion of the emulsion in the aqueous phase of white color ready to be applied and which again expands into two phases, an emulsified phase of white color and a transparent aqueous phase, having a perfectly clear interface and without the appearance of droplets which remain attached to the walls of the transparent container; the emulsified phase being in the upper part of the container and the aqueous phase thus being in the lower part of said container. According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsified phase is free or substantially free of silicone. By "substantially" means a silicone concentration less than or equal to 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The combination of at least one alkane comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, at least one emulsifier and at least one quaternary ammonium diluted in water also makes it possible to obtain a two-phase capillary composition , free or substantially free of silicone, having as good disentangling power on all types of hair as the two-phase compositions containing silicones.

After applying the composition according to the invention to all types of hair, dry or damp, the hair is untangled, sheathed and non-greasy.

additives

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more conventional cosmetic additives which will be in one or the other phase according to their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as for example vegetable oils, aqueous extracts of flowers or of fruits, perfumes, colors, preservatives, hair active agents, conditioning agents, buffering agents, electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH adjuster (e.g. citric acid or hydroxide sodium), UV filters (or sun filters), humectants, and mixtures thereof.

 These additives can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount between 1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the additives which can be introduced into the composition according to the invention can be chosen from:

 - vegetable oils,

 - aqueous fruit extracts,

 - the perfumes,

 - buffering agents,

 - dyes, and

 - preservatives.

As examples of vegetable oil which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of shea olein, argan oil, olive oil, camelina oil, oil sweet almond, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, l coriander oil, squash oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil or liquid jojoba wax, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vemonia oil, apricot kernel oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape seeds, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, and their mixtures.

Among the vegetable oils mentioned above, more preferably is used, ^the olein Shea, argan oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, jojoba oil, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, camellia oil, safflower oil and avocado oil and their mixtures.

 The vegetable oil (s) is or are preferably present in an amount of between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably in an amount of between 0.1 and 1% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

As aqueous extracts of flowers or fruits, an almond blossom extract, a cherry blossom extract, an orange blossom extract, a peach extract, a blueberry extract, a pomegranate extract and a vine flower extract.

As buffering agents, citric acid, lactic acid, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide can be used.

As dyes, CI 17200 (RED 33), CI 14700 (RED 4), CI 19140 (YELLOW 5), CI 60730 (EXT.VIOLET2), CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) and CI can be used. 77007 (ULTRAMARINES).

As preservatives, any preservative usually used in the fields considered, such as, for example, benzyl alcohol or methylisothiazolinone, can be used.

The compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more conditioning agents. In the context of the present invention, the term “conditioning agent” means any agent whose function is to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, in particular the softness, the disentangling, the feel, the straightening, the static electricity. According to the invention, the conditioning agents can be chosen from synthetic oils such as polyolefins, vegetable or animal oils.

 According to a particular embodiment, the two-phase composition comprises by weight: 18% of at least one alkane comprising from 12 to 15 carbon atoms, 0.1% of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, 0.75% of cetrimonium chloride , 0.3% vegetable oils or 0.2% aqueous extract of flowers or fruits, 0.5 to 0.7% of perfume (s), 0.015% of citric acid, 0.00020% to 0.00056% dye, 0.5% benzyl alcohol, and qs 100% water. The compositions described above can be packaged, in a known manner, in a single compartment bottle. The user must then shake the bottle before pouring the contents onto the hair. The product can also be packaged in a “pump bottle” type bottle capable of spraying the emulsified compositions in the form of a spray after manual stirring. According to a particular embodiment, it is a transparent container, generally made of polyethylene terephthalate (PET).

Process and uses According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, responding in particular to one or more of the above characteristics. This process comprises the preparation of the aqueous phase containing the quaternary ammonium, then the preparation of a fatty phase containing at least one alkane and the emulsifier, and the mixture of these two phases to form an emulsion. Once at rest, the white water-in-oil emulsion rises and the excess aqueous phase represents the transparent or possibly colored lower part.

 More particularly, the method according to the invention can comprise the following steps:

 a) preparation of the aqueous phase,

 b) preparation of the fatty phase,

 c) adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase,

 d) emulsification,

 e) resting leading to a phase shift.

Examples of preparation of a composition according to the invention are given below. The composition according to the invention can be used to untangle all types of hair, dry or damp, without rinsing. By all types of hair is meant: normal, oily, dry, very dry or curly or colored hair.

According to the invention, this use preferably comprises stirring the composition so as to disperse the aqueous phase and the emulsified phase one inside the other, and the taking of a dose of the dispersion thus formed for the apply to the hair and thus untangle it without rinsing.

The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the nonlimiting examples described below.

Examples

Compositions according to the invention were prepared. The raw materials used for the preparation of these compositions were as follows:

- Parafol ^® 12-97: Dodecane marketed by the company IMCD,

- Neossance ^® Hemisqualane: Alcane C13-C15 marketed by the company SAFIC

ALCAN,

- Isolan ^® GI 34: Polyglyceryl-4-isostearate marketed by the company AD ARA,

- Lameform ^® TGI: Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate marketed by the company BASF,

- Microcare ^® QUAT CTC 25: mixture of water and cetrimonium chloride; cetrimonium chloride representing 25% by weight in said mixture, said mixture being marketed by the company THOR,

 - Unicert Red 07004-J dye: Dye sold by SENSIENT,

 - Unicert Yellow dye 08005- J: Dye sold by the company SENSIENT,

- Kalama ^® Benzyl Alcohol: Benzyl alcohol sold by the company IMCD,

- Emogreen L15: Alcane C15-C19 marketed by the company SEPPIC,

 - KARITE ON: Shea olein (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract) sold by the company SOPHIM,

- Virgin Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil)

 - Virgin Olive Oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil) and

- Radia ^® 7104: Caprylic / Capric triglyceride sold by the company OLE ON. The following tests were carried out on the compositions prepared:

 Stability of the emulsion (stability of the emulsified phase): the stability of the emulsion is measured visually at room temperature or hot after a few days. Thus, the emulsion of a composition according to the invention is said to be stable when this composition is of the two-phase type and the emulsion of a composition outside the invention is said to be unstable when this composition is of the three-phase type or when it occurs in the form of a total emulsion.

 Appearance of the aqueous phase in the case of a two-phase composition: the appearance of the aqueous phase is observed visually. The aqueous phase according to the invention is transparent or slightly veiled.

 Detangling power: the detangling power is sensory evaluated by panels.

The equipment used for the preparation of the compositions is as follows:

- a Rayneri brand Turbotest equipped with a rotor / stator axis,

 - an IKA brand agitator equipped with a 4-blade propeller,

 - a pH meter,

 - a 2L beaker,

 - a 400mL beaker and

- a 50 mL beaker.

Demineralized water is charged in a 2L beaker. The beaker is positioned on the Turbotest equipped with the rotor / stator. The dyes Unicert Red 07004-J and Unicert Yellow 08005-J are weighed separately, then sprinkled in water with stirring at 300 rpm and the mixture is homogenized for 5 minutes at 300 rpm.

Microcare ^® QUAT CTC 25 is introduced into a 50 ml beaker. This mixture of water and cetrimonium chloride is added to the preceding mixture, then the whole is homogenized for 5 minutes at 300 rpm with Turbotest.

 Kalama benzyl alcohol is added to the previous mixture, then the whole is homogenized for 5 minutes at 300 rpm with Turbotest.

 Using a pH meter, the pH of the aqueous mixture obtained is checked and then adjusted to between 4.5 and 5 using a 10% diluted citric acid solution.

In a 400 mL beaker, the fatty phase is prepared by adding Parafol ^® 12-97, Neossance ^® Hemisqualane or Emogreen L15 or Radia ^® 7l04, Isolan ^® GI 34 or Lameform ^® TGI, shea olein, virgin argan oil, virgin olive oil and perfume. This fatty mixture is homogenized using a DCA agitator equipped with a 4-blade propeller for 10 minutes. The aqueous phase is then stirred with Turbotest at 1200 rpm, then the fatty phase is poured slowly into the aqueous phase. The mixture thus obtained is then homogenized for 10 minutes at 1200 rpm with Turbotest.

 The composition obtained is then put to rest.

The following compositions were thus prepared:

 (the percentages given in the tables below are percentages by weight relative to the total of each composition).

Table 1

 * Cetrimonium chloride represents 25% by weight in the water + cetrimonium chloride mixture (in Microcare QUAT CTC 25).

Example No. 2 shows that a quaternary ammonium such as cetrimonium chloride is essential to obtain a stable emulsion of the composition, in other words a stable water-in-oil emulsified phase.

Example No. 3 shows that an emulsifier such as polyglyceryl-4-isostearate is essential to obtain a stable emulsion of the composition, in other words a stable water-in-oil emulsified phase. Table 2

* Cetrimonium chloride represents 25% by weight in the water + cetrimonium chloride mixture

(in Microcare QUAT CTC 25).

These examples show that by varying the quantity of quaternary ammonium, the compositions all have a stable emulsion.

These examples also show that the detangling power decreases slightly when the amount of quaternary ammonium such as cetrimonium chloride decreases. Table 3

 * Cetrimonium chloride represents 25% by weight in the water + cetrimonium chloride mixture (in Microcare QUAT CTC 25).

These examples show that the emulsifier is effective even at a very small amount since the compositions all have a stable emulsion.

These examples also illustrate the use of an emulsifier other than polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, such as polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (in sample No. 8). Table 4 (T): Compositions

* Cetrimonium chloride represents 25% by weight in the water + cetrimonium chloride mixture (in Microcare QUAT CTC 25).

Table 4 (2): Observations

These examples show that when the mixture of alkanes such as dodecane and the C13-C 15 alkane are replaced by:

at least one C ₁₅ -C ₁₉ alkane, the composition has a stable emulsion,

 an oil such as olive oil, the composition has an unstable emulsion after 1 month, and

 - an oil such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, the composition has an unstable emulsion.

Claims

1. Two-phase composition comprising an aqueous phase and a water-in-oil emulsified phase; said emulsified phase comprising at least one alkane comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, at least one emulsifier of the water in oil type and at least one quaternary ammonium. 2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the emulsified phase is free or substantially free of silicone. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which at least one alkane contains from 13 to 15 carbon atoms. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the amount of alkane is between 2% and 36% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which at least one emulsifier is chosen from polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6-stearate, polyglyceryl-10-myristate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-10-peptaoxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the amount of emulsifier is at least 0.01% and is less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which at least one quaternary ammonium is chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, diketyldimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride and palmitamidopropyltimonium chloride. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of quaternary ammonium is between 0.1 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the emulsified phase represents from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising an additive chosen from hydro-dispersible vegetable oils, aqueous fruit extracts, perfumes, buffering agents, dyes and preservatives. 11. The composition as claimed in claim 10, in which the hydro-dispersible vegetable oils are chosen from the oils: argan, shea olein, sweet almond, macadamia, hazelnut, jojoba, wheat germ, sunflower, soy, sesame, camellia, safflower and avocado and mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising by weight:  - 18% of at least one alkane having 12 to 15 carbon atoms, - 0.1% polyglyceryl-4-isostearate,  - 0.75% of cetrimonium chloride,  - 0.3% vegetable oils or 0.2% aqueous extract of flowers or fruits, - 0.5 to 0.7% of perfume (s),  - 0.015% citric acid,  - 0.00020% to 0.00056% dye,  - 0.5% benzyl alcohol, and  - qs 100% in water. 13. Method for preparing a two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 comprising the following steps:  a) preparation of the aqueous phase,  b) preparation of the fatty phase,  c) adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase,  d) emulsification,  e) resting leading to a phase shift. 14. Use in leave-in condition of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for disentangling all types of hair, dry or damp.