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WO2019129820A1 - Composition gélifiée comprenant une microdispersion aqueuse de cire(s) - Google Patents

Composition gélifiée comprenant une microdispersion aqueuse de cire(s) Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019129820A1
WO2019129820A1 PCT/EP2018/097038 EP2018097038W WO2019129820A1 WO 2019129820 A1 WO2019129820 A1 WO 2019129820A1 EP 2018097038 W EP2018097038 W EP 2018097038W WO 2019129820 A1 WO2019129820 A1 WO 2019129820A1
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Prior art keywords
wax
composition
weight
composition according
chosen
Prior art date
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2018/097038
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English (en)
Inventor
Pamella WANG
Laurence Sebillotte-Arnaud
Anne MAGNAN
Annie BOSSIERE
Chrystel MICHALLET-GEOFFROY
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/044—Suspensions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed toward proposing for the field of caring for and making up keratin materials, especially the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the skin, a novel galenic form that is most particularly advantageous with regard to its technical performance and the sensations it affords the user during its application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin.
  • keratin materials especially means the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin.
  • Skin ageing results from the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin. During the ageing process, alteration to the structure and functions of the skin appears. The main clinical signs due to these modifications of the skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, the cause of which is slackening and loss of elasticity of the tissues.
  • intrinsic ageing which induces changes to the skin, especially causes a slowing of skin cell renewal, which is essentially reflected by the appearance of clinical alterations, such as a reduction in subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of fine wrinkles or fine lines, and by histopathological changes, such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibres, a loss of vertical fibres of the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.
  • the invention essentially concerns wrinkles and fine lines, the slackening of cutaneous and subcutaneous tissues and skin radiance.
  • the slackening of cutaneous and subcutaneous tissues is reflected by a lifeless skin texture, slackening of the skin microrelief, reduced skin firmness and an overall flaccid skin.
  • Tensioning effect is used to describe the mechanical smoothing effect which is capable of immediately reducing wrinkles and fine lines or even causing them to disappear. This tensioning effect is associated with the occurrence of two joint phenomena: the development of mechanical stresses during the drying of the composition and the formation of a cohesive and adhesive deposit making it possible to maintain these stresses over the treated area.
  • Document FR 2 758 083 relates to an antiwrinkle composition containing polymeric tensioning agents in aqueous dispersion, capable of forming a film that causes the tightening of the stratum corneum, that is to say the superficial horny layer of the epidermis.
  • compositions comprising polymeric tensioning systems or fatty substances and formulated in emulsions, do not have a satisfactory tensioning effect in particular because their effect does not last through the day. Moreover, these compositions are generally only suitable for a specific area of application, namely the area around the eyes.
  • a cosmetic process for reducing wrinkles comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising a tensioning agents and a fatty phase dispersion of solid particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, has also been proposed.
  • the tensioning agents formulated in the different care compositions of the known prior art are not generally perceived by consumers to be comfortable ln particular, the moisturization and the sensory perception of such care products are unsatisfactory lndeed, they are generally associated with a tacky feel, the appearance of pilling and a lack of a sense of nourishing the skin.
  • compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials opposing technical performance qualities such as preventing and/or reducing the visibility of wrinkles and fine lines, especially by a tensioning effect, and the sensation of comfort on the skin, which last over time and especially throughout the day.
  • the present invention is specifically directed toward meeting this need.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • said gelled aqueous phase also comprises an aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of particles of wax having a hardness at 20°C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate.
  • Gel-gel compositions have already been proposed in the cosmetic field. Formulations of this type combine a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel/gel formulations are described in Almeida et al, Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13:487, tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; Pl 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the inventors' knowledge, this type of composition does not currently make it possible to dissimulate and smooth out relief imperfections without thereby impairing the other expected cosmetic performance qualities.
  • incorporating an aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of particles of wax as defined above makes it possible to improve the performance qualities of mechanical stresses during drying and of adhesion to the skin and cohesion of a composition having a gel-gel architecture.
  • the organization of the wax into nanometre-scale particles makes it possible to obtain a structured deposit after drying, which affords advantageous mechanical properties to the whole of the composition.
  • the inventors observed that the sensory properties of the composition were retained, or even improved, with rapid drying on application (“grip” effect), strong fixing and a dry and natural feel after application.
  • compositions according to the invention have both a tensioning effect and comfort which are immediate and long-lasting.
  • Another subject of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps: i) providing an aqueous mixture comprising at least one polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate and an effective amount of at least one wax having a hardness at 20°C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C;
  • step ii) heating the mixture of step i) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said wax and/or mixture of waxes;
  • step iii) cooling the mixture of step ii) to below the crystallization temperature of the wax and/or the mixture of waxes in order to obtain an aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of particles of wax having a hardness at 20°C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate;
  • a further subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials and/or keratin fibres, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials and/or keratin fibres a composition according to the invention.
  • a further subject of the invention is a non- therapeutic cosmetic process for reducing and/or eliminating wrinkles and/or fine lines of the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin a composition as defined above.
  • a further subject of the invention is the non- therapeutic use of a composition as defined according to the present invention for preventing and/or treating the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
  • composition according to the invention is different than an emulsion.
  • An emulsion is generally constituted by an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically about a micrometre (0.1 to 100 pm). Furthermore, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or of an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
  • a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel-type texture. This texture is especially reflected visually by a consistent and/or creamy appearance.
  • macroscopically homogeneous mixture means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be individualized by the naked eye.
  • composition according to the invention the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable, consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrated macrodomains. These interpenetrated macrodomains are not measurable objects. Thus, by microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention also cannot be characterized as having a " sense ", i.e. an O/W or W/O sense.
  • composition is long-lasting without surfactant. Consequently, a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, according to the invention does not require any surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
  • the two colours may be observed as being uniformly dispersed throughout the gel-type composition (bi-continuous system).
  • This is different than an emulsion in which, if a dye, which is soluble in water or soluble in oil, is introduced, respectively, into the aqueous and oily phases, before forming the emulsion, the colour of the dye present will be observed only in the outer phase (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282).
  • the test that will be preferred for distinguishing a composition of gel type (bi-continuous system) from an emulsion is a dilution test.
  • a composition of gel type (bi-continuous system)
  • the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behaviour in water and in oil is different from the behaviour of an emulsion. Consequently, the behaviour during dilution of a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) may be compared to that of an emulsion.
  • the dilution test consists in placing 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a 500 ml plastic beaker.
  • the dilution is performed with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon.
  • this is performed using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ.
  • the speed of the mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes.
  • observation of the resulting sample is performed using a light microscope at a magnification of x 100 (x 10x 10).
  • oils such as Parleam ® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS ® sold by Dow Corning are suitable as dilution solvent, in the same way as one of the oils contained in the composition.
  • a gel-type composition when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed.
  • a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel in suspension are observed, and when a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) is diluted in oil, pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed.
  • the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present therein in a weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferentially, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 60/40 to 85/15.
  • the ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.
  • aqueous gelled phase/oily gelled phase weight ratio of greater than 1, in particular ranging from 55/45 to 95/5, preferably ranging from 60/40 to 85/15.
  • a composition according to the invention may thus be in the form of a creamy gel with a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless it has been subjected to an external mechanical stress.
  • composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.
  • the gelled phases under consideration for forming a composition according to the invention may have, respectively, a threshold stress of greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa.
  • the corresponding measurements are taken at 25°C using a Haake RS600 imposed-stress rheometer equipped with a plate-plate measuring body (60 mm diameter) fitted with an anti-evaporation device (bell jar). For each measurement, the sample is placed delicately in position and the measurements start 5 minutes after placing the sample in the jaws (2 mm). The test composition is then subjected to a stress ramp from 10 2 to 10 3 Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.
  • a composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity may be characterized by a stiffness modulus G* which, under this minimum stress threshold, may be at least equal to 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The value G* of a composition may be obtained by subjecting the composition under consideration to a stress ramp from 10 2 to 10 3 Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.
  • the gelled aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of particles of wax having a hardness at 20°C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate.
  • aqueous microdispersion of particles of wax(es) is intended to mean an aqueous dispersion of particles of wax(es), in which the size of said particles of wax(es) is less than or equal to approximately 1 pm.
  • Microdispersions of wax(es) are stable dispersions of colloidal particles of wax(es), and are described especially in Micro emulsions Theory and Practice , L.M. Prince Ed., academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.
  • these wax microdispersions may be obtained, according to the prior art, by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally of some of the water, followed by gradual addition of hot water with stirring. Intermediate formation of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion with final production of a microemulsion of the oil-in-water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is obtained.
  • Document WO 2005/007280 also describes a process for obtaining microdispersions of wax(es), in which the mixture of molten wax and surfactant is gradually poured over the additional part of water which is initially at a temperature less than l5°C.
  • the particles of wax(es) of the microdispersion of particles of wax(es) defined according to the invention preferably have a mean size less than 1 pm, in particular less than 0.5 pm, and preferably between 50 nm and 300 nm.
  • the aqueous microdispersion of particles of wax(es) according to the invention is present at a content of microdispersed waxes of between 5% and 45% by weight, preferably between 8% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous microdispersion comprises an effective amount of particles of wax(es), said hard wax(es) having a hardness at 20°C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C.
  • “effective amount” is intended to mean a sufficient amount to obtain the expected effect, namely a stable aqueous microdispersion able to give the final gel/gel composition containing it a tensioning effect and comfort upon application.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to l00°C, at a heating rate of l0°C/minute, it is then cooled from l00°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of l0°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to l00°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the wax used in a microdispersion of particles of wax defined according to the present invention more particularly has a melting point of between 60°C and 120 °C, preferably of between 70°C and l00°C.
  • the hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 20°C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TC2 ⁇ by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the hardness value corresponds to the maximum measured compression force in newtons divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder, expressed in mm 2 , in contact with the wax.
  • the wax used in a microdispersion of particles of wax defined according to the present invention more particularly has a hardness of between 6 MPa and 25 MPa, in particular of between 6 MPa and 15 MPa, preferably of between 6 MPa and 10 MPa.
  • “hard” waxes according to the invention having a melting point greater than 60°C
  • mention may especially be made of carnauba wax, candellila wax, Bis-Peg- 12 Dimethicone Candelillate wax such as, for example, Siliconyl Candelilla Wax sold by the company Koster Keunen, hydrogenated jojoba wax such as, for example, that sold by the company Desert Whale, rice bran wax, ceresin waxes, Chinese insect wax, shellac wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl or behenyl alcohol such as, for example, those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin ® 16L64 and Phytowax Ricin ® 22L73 by the company Sophim, hydrogenated camelina wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, ozokerite waxes such as, for example, Wax SP ® 1020P sold by the company Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes such as, for example,
  • Use may also be made of the waxes mentioned above in the form of commercially available mixtures, for example under the names KPC-60 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of stearyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides) and KPC-63 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of behenyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides) by the company Koster Keunen.
  • KPC-60 mixture of 87.5% by weight of stearyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides
  • KPC-63 mixture of 87.5% by weight of behenyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides
  • Use is preferably made of waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, rice bran wax, stearyl and behenyl alcohols and ouricury wax.
  • waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, rice bran wax, stearyl and behenyl alcohols and ouricury wax.
  • the hard wax(es) is (are) preferably polar.
  • polar wax is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter calculated above its melting point 5 a is other than 0 (J/cm3)1 ⁇ 2.
  • 'polar means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the wax of a microdispersion of particles of wax(es) defined according to the invention is chosen from carnauba wax, microcrystalline waxes, candelilla wax and mixtures thereof, and is preferably carnauba wax. Additional soft wax
  • an aqueous microdispersion of particles of wax(es) defined according to the invention may comprise at least one additional wax, referred to as“soft wax”, having a hardness at 20°C less than 6 MPa, preferably of between 1 MPa and 5.5 MPa and a melting point less than or equal to 65°C, preferably of between 30°C and 60°C.
  • “soft wax” having a hardness at 20°C less than 6 MPa, preferably of between 1 MPa and 5.5 MPa and a melting point less than or equal to 65°C, preferably of between 30°C and 60°C.
  • wax having a hardness less than 6 MPa mention may especially be made of beeswax, oxyethylenated beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, silicone-containing beeswax, synthetic beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, lanolin wax, paraffin wax, bayberry wax, oxyethylenated mango wax, orange wax, cupuaqu butter, murumuru butter, lemon wax, polymethylene wax, and silicone copolyol esters.
  • such an additional wax may be chosen from beeswax, oxyethylenated beeswax, paraffin wax and mixtures thereof, and preferably from beeswax, oxyethylenated beeswax and mixtures thereof.
  • an aqueous microdispersion of particles of wax(es) defined according to the invention comprises carnauba wax or a mixture of carnauba wax and beeswax, optionally oxyethylenated.
  • an aqueous microdispersion of particles of wax(es) may comprise a content of microdispersed wax(es) of between 5% and 45% by weight, and preferably between 8% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the effective amount of microdispersed wax(es) in the composition may advantageously depend on the content of other components of the composition, in particular on the content of hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • the weight ratio of microdispersed wax(es) over hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is preferably of from 6 to 40, more preferably from 8 to 35.
  • the weight ratio of microdispersed wax(es) over hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is preferably of from 14 to 290, more preferably from 50 to 250.
  • the weight ratio of microdispersed wax(es) over hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is preferably of from 400 and 600.
  • Polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate is a nonionic surfactant, a polyoxyalkylenated ester of fatty acid and glycerol ether.
  • the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate used according to the present invention comprises between 20 and 200 oxyethylene groups, preferably between 30 and 100 oxyethylene groups. More preferentially, it comprises 30 oxyethylene groups.
  • polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate that is more particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention, mention may be made of that sold under the name TAGAT S ® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
  • the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate may be present in a composition according to the invention such that the polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate/wax(es) weight ratio in said aqueous microdispersion is between 0.10 and 0.40, preferably between 0.10 and 0.35, and is more preferably between 0.20 and 0.30.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • the gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from natural polymeric gelling agents and those of natural origin, more specifically polysaccharides, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, and preferably from associative polymers, polyacrylamides, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, and carboxyvinyl polymers and mixtures thereof.
  • polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention may be natural or of natural origin.
  • the term“ of natural origin” is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.
  • These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.
  • polysaccharides may be divided into several categories.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.
  • they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether or not they are starchy.
  • starchy polysaccharides As representatives of the starchy polysaccharides, mention may be made most particularly of native starches, modified starches and particulate starches.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is non- starchy.
  • the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from those described especially in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A.
  • Such a gelling agent may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 8% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, especially from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 2.5% by weight and in particular in a proportion of about 1%, or alternatively in a proportion of about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.
  • the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent under consideration according to the invention may or may not be particulate.
  • the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.
  • the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below.
  • the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from associative polymers, polyacrylamides and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, and carboxyvinyl polymers, and more preferentially from 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers.
  • the particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.
  • They may especially be crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, and which are in particulate form.
  • the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.
  • Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 5% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.15% to 2% by weight and in particular in a proportion of about from 0.2% to 1.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents are preferably chosen from associative polymers, polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.
  • the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.
  • the associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.
  • associative anionic polymers mention may be made, according to a preferred embodiment, of copolymers comprising among their monomers an a,b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an a,b-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
  • these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an a,b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a Ci-C 4 alcohol.
  • Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.
  • the nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:
  • a nonionic associative polymer of polyurethane type is used as gelling agent.
  • amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate copolymers.
  • the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as Steareth-l 00/PEG- 136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.
  • Such an associative polymer is advantageously used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 8% by weight of solids and preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • the polymers used that are suitable as aqueous gelling agent for the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS ® ) monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
  • AMPS ® 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • AMPS ® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.
  • the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • crosslinking agents mention may for example be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethyleneglycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
  • TMPTA trimethylolpropane triacrylate
  • the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
  • the AMPS ® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:
  • copolymers obtained from AMPS ® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.
  • said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
  • fatty chain means any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.
  • the "homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
  • the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert- butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
  • the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;
  • a standard radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from l0°C to l50°C; the polymer precipitates from the tert-butanol- based solution or dispersion.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
  • ionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:
  • - Ri is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ;
  • - Xi is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR where R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO 3 -) and/or sulfate (-SO 4 -) and/or phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 -) group.
  • nonionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include:
  • N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
  • - R 3 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ;
  • - X 2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR 4 where R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
  • R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
  • hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain mention may be made, for example, of:
  • styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, a-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;
  • silicone derivatives which, after polymerization, result in silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;
  • - R 4 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ;
  • - X 3 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR 5 where R 5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
  • AMPS homopolymers suitable for use in the invention mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium
  • Polydimethyltauramide such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 Bl and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ® by the company Clariant.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises an AMPS ® homopolymer.
  • such an AMPS ® homopolymer may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.15% and 3% by weight, and more preferentially between 0.2% and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • - crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/Ci 3 -Ci 4 isoparaffln/laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight of solids, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight of solids and more preferentially from 0.15% to 2.5% by weight of solids of polyacrylamide(s) and/or of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer(s) and copolymer(s) which are crosslinked and/or neutralized, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 5% by weight of solids and more preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight of solids of polyacrylamide(s) and/or of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer(s) and copolymer(s) which are crosslinked and/or neutralized, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from a,b-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group.
  • acrylate/Cio-C3o-alkyl acrylate copolymers such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR-l, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2.
  • modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates, such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP ® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL ® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% of solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.
  • Cosmedia SP ® containing 90% solids and 10% water
  • Cosmedia SPL ® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% of solids
  • an oil hydroogenated polydecene
  • PPG-5 laureth-5 surfactant
  • the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • CFA name carbomer
  • Pemulen CFA name: Acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
  • the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 5% by weight of solids relative to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3% to 1% by weight and preferably between 0.4% and 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers.
  • the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is an AMPS ® homopolymer. III.
  • Other hydrophilic gelling agents are also included in the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and fumed silicas.
  • mixed silicate means all silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline-earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminium.
  • alkali metals for example Na, Li, K
  • alkaline-earth metals for example Be, Mg, Ca
  • it is an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, aluminium or iron silicate or mixture of silicates.
  • it is sodium, magnesium and/or lithium silicate.
  • the silicates are phyllosilicates, namely silicates having a structure in which the S1O 4 tetrahedra are organized in leaflets between which the metal cations are enclosed.
  • the mixed silicates that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen, for example, from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite and saponites. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixed silicates used are more particularly chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and better still from laponites.
  • a family of silicates that is particularly preferred in the compositions of the present invention is the laponite family.
  • Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 8% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, especially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • the fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic.
  • hydrophilic fumed silicas are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCU) in a continuous flame at 1000°C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen.
  • SiCU silicon tetrachloride
  • fumed silicas of hydrophilic nature that may be used according to the present invention, mention may especially be made of those sold by the company Degussa or Evonik Degussa under the trade names Aerosil ® 90, 130, 150, 200, 300 and 380 or alternatively by the company Cabot under the name Carbosil H5.
  • Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 10% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, especially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • lipophilic gelling agent means a compound that is capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is lipophilic and is thus present in the oily phase of the composition.
  • the gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas, such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers, dextrin esters, polymers containing hydrogen bonding, chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone-based polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
  • lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, and silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.
  • the waxes may be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may especially be polar or apolar, hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro waxes, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the apolar waxes may be chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes.
  • the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes.
  • ester wax of those chosen from waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri and R represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point of which ranges from 25 to l20°C, di(trimethylol- 1 , 1 , 1 propane) tetrastearate, diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ), in which R 3 and R 5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R 4 represents a linear or branched aliphatic C4-C30 group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturation(s), and is preferably linear and
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol; beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax and berry wax.
  • animal or plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes
  • the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
  • alcohol waxes examples include the C30-C50 alcohol wax Performacol ® 550 Alcohol sold by the company New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
  • silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably of low melting point.
  • waxes particularly advantageous waxes that may be mentioned include polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax.
  • oily phase may be present in the oily phase in a proportion of from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay.
  • the clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C 22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride .
  • an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C 22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride .
  • They may preferably be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
  • Hectorites modified with a Cio to Cn ammonium chloride such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V ® (87% isododecane/ 10% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elementis, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.
  • Lipophilic clay may especially be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles.
  • Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. Indeed, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the fumed silicas may be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the INCI name Silica silylate.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention
  • an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • Aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203 , Enova ® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.
  • the elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
  • the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl unit.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in application JP-A-61-194009.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.
  • a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt
  • functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • Dimethicone such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
  • Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as Dow Corning EL-9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Coming (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt));
  • Dimethicone such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
  • dimethicone crosspolymer such as Dow Corning EL-9240 ® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Coming (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer” or “dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer”, with, preferably, a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Coming or the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt) sold under the name EL-9240 ® by the company Dow Coming.
  • a crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer” or "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer”
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form: mention may be made especially of the powders sold under the names Dow Coming 9505 Powder and Dow Corning 9506 Powder by the company Dow Corning, these powders having the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • the organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5,538,793.
  • Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.
  • organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that may advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of the reference KSP- 100 from the company Shin-Etsu.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer preferably having the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, as oily gelling agent and/or as soft-focus filler, preferably as oily gelling agent and as soft-focus filler.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer type As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made especially of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, more preferentially Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
  • crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention in a content of between 5% and 60% by weight of active material (solids), especially between 10% and 50% by weight, preferably between 15% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.2% and 25% by weight of active material (solids) and especially between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semi crystalline polymer.
  • the semicrystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.
  • the term "semicrystalline polymer” means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion and having a first- order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting point (solid-liquid transition).
  • the crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the backbone.
  • the semicrystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
  • the semicrystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s), polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type, copolymers of ethylene and of propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, and acrylate/silicone copolymers.
  • the semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897, polycondensates, especially of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type, copolymers of ethylene and of propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US 5,156,911, such as the (Cio-C3o)alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer ® from the company Landec described in the brochure “Intelimer ® polymers”, Landec IP22 (Rev.
  • the amount of semicrystalline polymer(s), preferably chosen from semicrystalline polymers bearing crystallizable side chains represents from 0.1% to 30% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% or even from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise as lipophilic gelling agent at least one dextrin ester.
  • the composition preferably comprises at least one preferably Ci 2 to C 24 and in particular C 14 to Ci 8 fatty acid ester of dextrin, or mixtures thereof.
  • the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a Ci 2 -Ci 8 and in particular C 14 -C 18 fatty acid.
  • the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and/or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as the product sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL ® , Rheopearl KL ® and Rheopearl ® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7.5% to 17% by weight of dextrin ester(s) relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight of dextrin palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the dextrin palmitate may especially be the product sold under the names Rheopearl TL ® , Rheopearl KL ® or Rheopearl ® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • polymers containing hydrogen bonding that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of polyamide(s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight expressed as solids, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • polyamide means a compound containing at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and better still 10 amide repeating units.
  • hydrocarbon-based polyamide means a polyamide formed essentially of, indeed even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not comprising any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the silicone polymers and/or copolymers advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to l90°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70°C to l30°C and better still from 80°C to l05°C.
  • the total content of polyamide(s) and/or silicone polyamide(s) is between 0.5% and 25% by weight of solids, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably between 2% and 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the polymer containing hydrogen bonding is chosen from the ethyl enediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and Nylon-61 l/dimethicone copolymers.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas, such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, in particular chosen from modified clays, and preferably chosen from bentonites.
  • a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas, such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, in particular chosen from modified clays, and preferably chosen from bentonites.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, and more particularly chosen from 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers.
  • crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ® by the company Clariant.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents, in particular chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay, more particularly chosen from hectorites, and especially hectorites modified with a Cio to Cn ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride or bentone gel in isododecane.
  • hectorites modified with a Cio to Cn ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride or bentone gel in isododecane.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, more particularly chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers and especially from crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers, and a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, in particular chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, and mixtures thereof, in particular chosen from hectorites, and especially hectorites modified with a Cio to C ' 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride or bentone gel in isododecane.
  • a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, more particularly chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers and especially from cross
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • the term“ water-soluble solvent’ denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.
  • a“ polyoF should be understood to be any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at ambient temperature.
  • a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two - OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four - OH functions.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those especially containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least dipropylene glycol.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
  • the gelled aqueous phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 5% and 95% by weight, in particular of between 35% and 90% by weight and preferably of between 60% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • an oily phase comprises at least one oil.
  • oily phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • oils of silicone origin are preferred.
  • nonvolatile oil is intended to mean an oil with a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
  • silicon oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • volatile oil is intended to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made especially of branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched CV , esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • C8-C16 isoalkanes also known as isoparaffins
  • isododecane also known as isoparaffins
  • isodecane isodecane
  • isohexadecane isohexadecane
  • esters for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, in particular cyclohexasiloxane.
  • the nonvolatile oils may be chosen especially from nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin in particular liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, liquid petroleum jelly, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene;
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid alcohol esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate or isotridecyl neopentanoate, or esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate or isotridecyl isononanoate,
  • fatty acid alcohol esters for instance cetostearyl
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol,
  • nonphenylated silicone oils such as, for example, caprylyl methicone, and
  • phenyl silicone oils for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
  • the gelled oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress of greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This threshold stress value reflects a gel-type texture of this oily phase.
  • the gelled oily phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 5% and 95% by weight, in particular of between 10% and 65% by weight and preferably of between 15% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise a third phase, separate from the gelled aqueous and oily phases described above.
  • this phase is pulverulent and is therefore essentially constituted of compounds in powder form.
  • This additional phase may more particularly comprise at least one filler, at least one preservative, at least one fragrance, and mixtures thereof.
  • this additional phase comprises at least one filler.
  • fillers For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble and dispersed form in the medium of the composition.
  • the filler(s) are chosen from powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin, powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with hydrophilic silicone resin, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders, expanded vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethyl ene/acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, powders of silica and silicates, especially of alumina, hydrophobic aerogel particles, talc having a number-average size
  • the filler is chosen from sillicone-based fillers, such as non emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers, crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane elastomer in dispersion in water, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to provide the composition with additional properties in terms of sensory effects and visual effects ln particular, it enables the composition to be more pleasant on application to keratin materials, and to improve the mattifying effect.
  • the additional phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 1% and 35% by weight, in particular of between 3% and 30% by weight and preferably of between 5% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise other adjuvants, present in one or more of the phases described above.
  • Colorants present in one or more of the phases described above.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of colorants relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the colorants that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble, but may also be liposoluble.
  • water-soluble colorant means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus and elder), caramel and riboflavin.
  • the water- soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
  • liposoluble colorant means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (b-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • the coloring particulate materials may be present in a proportion of from 0.001% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. They may especially be pigments, nacres and/or particles with metallic glints.
  • 'pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition containing them.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
  • mineral pigments which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof. They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • the pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non- iridescent coloured particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 15% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • the nacres according to the invention are micas covered with titanium dioxide or with iron oxide, and also bismuth oxychloride.
  • the term“ particles with a metallic glint” means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface finish allow it to reflect the incident light, especially in a non- iridescent manner.
  • the particles with a metallic glint which may be used in the invention are in particular chosen from particles of at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, made from a single material or multiple materials, at least partially covered with at least one layer with a metallic glint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and mixtures of said particles.
  • the pulverulent colorants as described previously may be totally or partially surface treated, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, especially so that they have good wettability with oils.
  • these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise a dispersant.
  • Such a dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof.
  • a dispersant in accordance with the invention is a surfactant.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1 % by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of surfactant.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polar additive(s).
  • the use of such a polar additive may especially facilitate the homogenization of the dispersion in the presence of pigments.
  • the polar additive may be chosen from compounds considered as good hydrogen bond donors or acceptors, for instance fatty alcohols, fatty acids, diols and esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar additives of the invention may be polar oils.
  • the polar additives of the invention may be amphiphilic compounds, comprising a lipophilic part bonded to a polar part, for example chosen from esters, Ci 2 to C 6 branched fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol, or amphiphilic silicone compounds.
  • the polar additives of the invention may also be agents for screening out UV-B and/or UV-A rays, the total amount of screening agents possibly being between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight of polar additive(s).
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one active agent.
  • This may be a moisturizer (also referred to as humectant), especially chosen from glycerol, vitamins, preferably tocopherol, and mixtures thereof, in particular for a care application.
  • humectant also referred to as humectant
  • the moisturizer(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 15% by weight or even from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises less than 8% by weight of glycerol, in particular less than 7% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of glycerol.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent, preferably an anti-ageing active agent, more preferentially chosen from sodium hyaluronate, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid.
  • active agent preferably an anti-ageing active agent, more preferentially chosen from sodium hyaluronate, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid.
  • active agents preferably an anti-ageing active agent, more preferentially chosen from sodium hyaluronate, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, aden
  • the active agent is sodium hyaluronate.
  • Another subject of the present invention is, according to another of its aspects, a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps:
  • aqueous mixture comprising at least one polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate and an effective amount of at least one wax having a hardness at 20°C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C;
  • step ii) heating the mixture of step i) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said wax and/or mixture of waxes;
  • step iii) cooling the mixture of step ii) to below the crystallization temperature of the wax and/or the mixture of waxes in order to obtain an aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of particles of wax having a hardness at 20°C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate;
  • room temperature is intended to mean a temperature ranging from 20°C to 25°C, at standard atmospheric pressure (76 mmHg).
  • this process may also comprise a step of adding at least one third phase, separate from said gelled aqueous and oily phases, in particular a pulverulent phase, preferably comprising at least one filler, as defined above.
  • the heating temperature in question in step ii) may be between 60°C and l20°C, in particular between 70°C and l00°C.
  • the oily phase gelled by at least one lipophilic gelling agent in question in step v) may be at room temperature or may be heated to a temperature greater than room temperature.
  • the oily phase gelled by at least one lipophilic gelling agent in question in step v) is at a temperature of between 30°C and l00°C, more preferentially between 45°C and 75°C.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for reducing and/or eliminating wrinkles and/or fine lines of the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin a composition according to the invention.
  • a composition in accordance with the present invention is particularly advantageous in that it has good properties in terms of tensioning effect, making it possible to effectively reduce the visibility of wrinkles and fine lines, in particular appearing on the skin of the face.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for preventing and/or treating the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
  • composition according to the invention retains good sensory properties, in particular in terms of tackiness and moisturization of the skin.
  • composition according to the invention affords the user a feeling of comfort. This effect is also long-lasting throughout the day.
  • composition according to the invention enables a good perception of comfort, as soon as it is applied, which is long-lasting throughout the day.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a care composition, in particular for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibres, the body or the face, in particular the face.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for anti-ageing care of the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and/or keratin fibres, the body or the face, in particular the face.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a lip product, especially a lipstick.
  • a composition of the invention may be in the form of a product for the eyelashes, in particular a mascara.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for the eyebrows, in particular an eyebrow pencil.
  • compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
  • the percentages are percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated. The percentages are thus given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius, unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.
  • compositions Cl, C2 and C3 according to the invention are prepared as described below with the proportions indicated in table 1.
  • the carnauba wax, the oxyethylenated beeswax, the PEG-30 glyceryl stearate and water are introduced into a vessel and heated to a temperature of 95 ⁇ 2°C.
  • the mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes.
  • the composition is cooled while being stirred at a rate of approximately 2°C/min down to 70°C.
  • ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate is added at 70°C under shearing and mixing.
  • the thickened fatty phase is heated at 75°C for 20 minutes, then cooled to 65°C. It is added to the vessel cooled to 65°C, under shearing and mixing.
  • the glycerol, the preservatives, the fragrance and the active agents are added to the vessel cooled at between 30°C and 45°C, under shearing and mixing.
  • the alcohol is added to the vessel when it reaches a temperature lower than 35°C.
  • the composition is cooled to 25°C.
  • the tensioning and comfort perceptions were evaluated by 20 women during a qualitative consumer study performed by a company independent of L’Oreal.
  • compositions according to the invention have both immediate and long-lasting tensioning effect and comfort.
  • compositions CC1, comparative composition, and C4 according to the invention are prepared as described above with the proportions indicated in table 2.
  • the presence or absence of pilling is evaluated by application of the compositions to the face, drying then rubbing over the area.
  • the tensioning and comfort perceptions were evaluated by 20 women during a qualitative consumer study performed by a company independent of L’Oreal.
  • Composition C4 according to the invention has both immediate and long-lasting tensioning effect and comfort and does not pill after application.
  • composition CC 1 not in accordance with the invention does not make it possible to achieve satisfactory comfort and tends to form lots of pills on application.
  • compositions according to the invention are prepared as described above with the proportions indicated in table 4.
  • Table 4 Compositions C5, C6, C7 and C8, in accordance with the invention, exhibit good tensioning effect.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, en particulier une composition cosmétique, en particulier pour le maquillage et/ou le soin des matières kératiniques, comprenant: - au moins une phase aqueuse gélifiée par au moins un agent gélifiant hydrophile; et - au moins une phase huileuse gélifiée par au moins un agent gélifiant lipophile; lesdites phases formant dans celle-ci un mélange macroscopiquement homogène, caractérisé en ce que ladite phase aqueuse gélifiée comprend également une microdispersion aqueuse d'une quantité efficace de particules de cire ayant une dureté à 20 °C supérieure ou égale à 6 MPa et un point de fusion supérieur ou égal à 60 °C, stabilisée par au moins un monostéarate de glycéryle polyoxyéthyléné. L'invention concerne également un procédé de préparation d'une telle composition et son utilisation pour la prévention et/ou le traitement de l'apparition de rides et/ou de ridules.
PCT/EP2018/097038 2017-12-28 2018-12-27 Composition gélifiée comprenant une microdispersion aqueuse de cire(s) Ceased WO2019129820A1 (fr)

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FR1763344 2017-12-28
FR1763344A FR3076218B1 (fr) 2017-12-28 2017-12-28 Composition gelifiee comprenant une microdispersion aqueuse de cire(s)

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CN113164343A (zh) * 2018-11-29 2021-07-23 欧莱雅 包含锂皂石和果胶的组合物
WO2021255255A1 (fr) * 2020-06-19 2021-12-23 L'oreal Composition comprenant un polyol, un ester de polyglycérol, un sel d'acide hyaluronique et un polymère hydrophile spécifique
FR3111555A1 (fr) * 2020-06-19 2021-12-24 L'oreal Composition comprenant un polysaccharide, un polyol et au moins un ester polyglycérolé
FR3111546A1 (fr) * 2020-06-19 2021-12-24 L'oreal Composition comprenant un polyol, un ester de polyglycérol, un sel d’acide hyaluronique et un polymère hydrophile spécifique
CN114907726A (zh) * 2022-06-29 2022-08-16 长沙族兴新材料股份有限公司 一种水溶性条状铝颜料及其制备方法

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WO2025250310A1 (fr) * 2024-05-30 2025-12-04 L'oreal Composition cosmétique pour améliorer immédiatement l'aspect de la peau

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CN113164343A (zh) * 2018-11-29 2021-07-23 欧莱雅 包含锂皂石和果胶的组合物
CN113164343B (zh) * 2018-11-29 2023-08-08 欧莱雅 包含锂皂石和果胶的组合物
WO2021255255A1 (fr) * 2020-06-19 2021-12-23 L'oreal Composition comprenant un polyol, un ester de polyglycérol, un sel d'acide hyaluronique et un polymère hydrophile spécifique
FR3111555A1 (fr) * 2020-06-19 2021-12-24 L'oreal Composition comprenant un polysaccharide, un polyol et au moins un ester polyglycérolé
FR3111546A1 (fr) * 2020-06-19 2021-12-24 L'oreal Composition comprenant un polyol, un ester de polyglycérol, un sel d’acide hyaluronique et un polymère hydrophile spécifique
CN114907726A (zh) * 2022-06-29 2022-08-16 长沙族兴新材料股份有限公司 一种水溶性条状铝颜料及其制备方法
CN114907726B (zh) * 2022-06-29 2023-01-31 长沙族兴新材料股份有限公司 一种水溶性条状铝颜料及其制备方法

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