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WO2019127089A1 - Composition for cleansing keratin materials - Google Patents

Composition for cleansing keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019127089A1
WO2019127089A1 PCT/CN2017/118952 CN2017118952W WO2019127089A1 WO 2019127089 A1 WO2019127089 A1 WO 2019127089A1 CN 2017118952 W CN2017118952 W CN 2017118952W WO 2019127089 A1 WO2019127089 A1 WO 2019127089A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
skin
cleansing
keratin materials
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/CN2017/118952
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Jiejin LIU
Wei LE
Ruijun Chen
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to CN201780097970.XA priority Critical patent/CN111556741A/en
Priority to PCT/CN2017/118952 priority patent/WO2019127089A1/en
Publication of WO2019127089A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019127089A1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cleansing and/or exfoliating compositions that are useful for personal skin care.
  • the skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) .
  • the skin of the human body comprises the dermis and the epidermis.
  • the epidermis is the top most layer of the skin, and its superficial layer is called the stratum corneum.
  • the stratum corneum or horny layer, is normally made up of 10 to 30 layers of dead cells. These cells are constantly being replaced by new cells from below. It is estimated that in adult skin it takes about a month for the stratum corneum to be completely replaced by new cells. The replacement time increases with aging, until around 120-150 days. The longer it takes to replace the dead cells, the more layers of dead cells accumulate.
  • cleansing the skin is an essential step for caring for the keratin materials, in particular the facial skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as dirt, excess sebum, and the remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up products can result in an unpleasant oily appearance.
  • rinsable cleansing anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams, lotions and gels, and non-foaming compositions are known.
  • hydrocarbon wax beads are relatively large in size, notably 300 to 2000 ⁇ m, and tend to be soft in cleansing or exfoliating formula, which is not desired;
  • sodium salts are used as scrub beads in cleansing and exfoliating compositions.
  • surfactants such as SLES (sodium lauryl sulfate) in order to maintain the foaming property of the composition.
  • SLES sodium lauryl sulfate
  • This type of surfactants are known for its strong cleansing ability, as well as harshness to the skin, in particular sensitive skin.
  • compositions for caring for the keratin materials with very good cleansing and/or exfoliating properties, while at the same time maintaining mild and gentle feeling after application.
  • compositions having the desired properties as described above by combining a specific surfactant with high amount of salt.
  • the present invention relates to a composition (also called “the composition of the invention” ) for caring for keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase:
  • composition of the invention is able to deliver a gentle massage and cleansing to the skin, without any harsh feeling.
  • composition of the present invention also delivers a good foaming effect during application.
  • composition of the invention is stable over time.
  • stable it is meant that the composition does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least two months after its manufacture.
  • the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials with natural origin ingredients.
  • all the ingredients of the composition of the present invention are natural origin.
  • composition of the present invention is a rinse off product.
  • a composition is applied on skin (i.e. face and/or body) , and then rinsed.
  • composition of the invention comprises, in an aqueous phase:
  • a polyol according to the present invention may preferably be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 2 -C 6 polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, dialkylene polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof.
  • Mentions may be made to, as polyols useful in the composition of the present invention, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, hexalene glycol, or a mixture thereof.
  • the polyol of the present invention is chosen from linear C 2 -C 4 polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, C 2 -C 4 dialkylene polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof.
  • the polyol of the present invention is glycerin.
  • composition of the present invention comprises from 10%to 70%by weight, more preferably from 20%to 60%by weight of the C 2 -C 6 polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycerinate surfactant.
  • said glyceinate surfactant is derived from a carboxylate salt of glycine wherein the amine group situated on the ⁇ -carbon or ⁇ -carbon of a glycinate is acylated with a C 8 to C 22 fatty acid derivative.
  • the carboxylate salts of these glycine can be formed by conventional means such as by neutralization of the glycine with a base.
  • the amine group situated on the ⁇ -carbon or ⁇ -carbon of the neutralized glycine is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the glycinate surfactant.
  • a fatty acid halide acyl halide
  • Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides.
  • the acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 to C 22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide) .
  • a thionyl halide bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide
  • acyl halides include but are not limited to the acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride) , cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chlorides) tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride) , hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride) , octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride) , 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride) , eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride) , docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride) , and any mixture thereof.
  • acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the foregoing fatty acids.
  • a method for preparing acyl halides as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids is set forth in US Patent Application Publication No. 2008/0200704, published on August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.
  • said glycinate surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :
  • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms
  • X and Y are hydrogen group
  • n 0,
  • M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
  • glycinate surfactants palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Z represents a saturated and linear C 8 to C 22 alkyl group
  • X and Y are hydrogen group
  • n 0,
  • M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
  • the glycinate surfactant is sodium N-cocoylglycinate.
  • the glycinate surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 2%to 20%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least 5%by weight of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • water-soluble it means that the solubility of the inorganic salt in water is at least 100 g/L at room temperature, preferably at least 200 g/L at room temperature.
  • the inorganic salt suitable for the composition of the present invention has a cation chosen from Na + , K + , Li + , Ca 2+ , Mg 2+ , Cu 2+ , or Zn 2+ , and an anion chosen from halides, HCO 3 - , or HPO 4 - .
  • halides are used.
  • the cations are preferably mono-or divalent.
  • Preferred cations are selected from Na, Ca, Li, K, Mg, Cu and Zn.
  • the preferred salts are chosen from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, lithium chloride, ammonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.
  • the inventors found that the combination of the ingredients in the composition of the present invention enables the inorganic water soluble salts existing in form of particles in the composition, instead of solubilized, and therefore provides a scrubbing function to the skin during application. Consequently, the composition of the present invention delivers an excellent and mild exfoliation effect to the skin.
  • the inorganic salt may be present in the composition at a content greater than 5%by weight, preferably between 6%and 40%, preferably between 7%and 35%by weight, and more preferably between 10%and 30%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • salts in particular water-soluble inorganic salts has an impact on the foaming of compositions existing on the market. In particular, it prevents foam from generation, or defoams in cosmetic compositions.
  • surfactants such as SLES, in combination with low amount of salts.
  • compositions of this type does not deliver an exfoliation effect, as the salt is not in form of particles in the composition. Besides, it failed to deliver a gentle and mild cleansing to the skin.
  • the present invention makes it possible to formulate a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, which comprises a high amount of salt, in combination with a glycinate surfactant, and presents a very good foaming property.
  • the weight ratio of the at least one C 2 -C 6 polyol and the at least one water soluble inorganic salt is greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 5. According to this preferred embodiment, the ratio of the at least one C 2 -C 6 polyol and the at least one water soluble inorganic salt can ensure a superior cleansing and exfoliating effect, due to the fact that the salts are in form of particles and deliver a desired scrubbing feeling to the skin.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • the composition of the present invention is an aqueous solution.
  • the aqueous phase includes water.
  • the amount of water in the compositions according to the invention ranges from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 5%to 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in an aqueous phase, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • the present invention also relates to a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin ( “cosmetic composition” ) , comprising the composition of the invention as described above, and at least one additional ingredient.
  • the additional ingredients that are useful in the present invention include additional surfactants, such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, thickeners, or mixtures thereof.
  • additional surfactants such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, thickeners, or mixtures thereof.
  • the additional surfactants are selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures.
  • Nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; ethanolamine and its derivatives, such as cocamide MEA; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) , such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example,
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • ⁇ R b represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • ⁇ R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • ⁇ B represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 OX'
  • ⁇ X' represents the group -CH 2 COOH, CH 2 COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 COOZ', or a hydrogen atom
  • ⁇ Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 CHOHSO 3 H or the group -CH 2 CHOHSO 3 Z',
  • ⁇ Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine,
  • R a' represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a' COON preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C 17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine (or cocobetaine) , and (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8 ) alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional surfactant is selected from oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines, or a mixture thereof.
  • the additional surfactant when exists, is selected from PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate, cocoylbetaine, or a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of additional surfactant (s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one thickener.
  • the thickeners may advantageously be chosen from xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose (available as ) , hydroxyethyl cellulose carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose (available as ) , hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (available as Plus 330) , N-vinylpyrolidone (available as ) , Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer (available as 3001) , hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (available as XL) , polyethoxylated urethanes or polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (e.g.
  • PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI copolymer e.g. 44
  • PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI copolymer available as 46
  • trihydroxystearin available as )
  • acrylates copolymer e.g. available as 33
  • hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers e.g.
  • acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer available as 22
  • acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer available as 88
  • acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer available as 38
  • acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer available as 28
  • acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer available as ETD 2020
  • the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additive.
  • a person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties for these compositions are not affected by the additives.
  • composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, in particular using a finger, or a cotton ball, a rod, a brush, gauze, or a spatula, and can be removed by rinsing with water.
  • composition of the invention may be implemented so as to improve the general state of the epidermis, in particular the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the invention.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the comparative formulas A1 and A2 contain sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium laureth sulfate, respectively, instead of the glycinate surfactant as claimed in the present invention.
  • Score 4 from 60%to 80% (not included) of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
  • Score 3 at least 50%of consumers consider the effect being good and expected
  • the stability was measured after storage during one month at 4°C, 25°C (room temperature or RT) , 40°C or 45°C.
  • Stability tests are also performed under sun test and during several cycles.
  • Stability under sun test was performed by leaving the cosmetic composition of the invention in a Suntest CPS+produced by Atlas for 24 hours.
  • Cycle stability test was performed at a cycle of-20°C to 20°C every 24 hours, for 10 days.
  • the invention formula B possesses an excellent property in each of the tests listed above, and therefore is the preferred embodiment of the present invention.
  • the comparative formula A1 is not stable: phase separation is seen immediately after formulation.

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Abstract

A composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase: a) at least one C 2-C 6 polyol; b) at least one glycinate surfactant; and c) at least 5% by weight of at least one water soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total amount of the composition. The composition provides to the keratin materials scrubbing sensory, and meanwhile presents a very good foaming property. Besides, the composition is mild and gentle to the keratin materials, in particular the skin.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING KERATIN MATERIALS
The present invention relates to cleansing and/or exfoliating compositions that are useful for personal skin care.
The skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) . The skin of the human body comprises the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis is the top most layer of the skin, and its superficial layer is called the stratum corneum.
The stratum corneum, or horny layer, is normally made up of 10 to 30 layers of dead cells. These cells are constantly being replaced by new cells from below. It is estimated that in adult skin it takes about a month for the stratum corneum to be completely replaced by new cells. The replacement time increases with aging, until around 120-150 days. The longer it takes to replace the dead cells, the more layers of dead cells accumulate.
It is therefore desirable to eliminate excess layers of dead skin cells from the skin surface in order to provide a shiny skin with a youthful appearance. The process of removing dead skin cells from the skin surface is called exfoliation.
On the other hand, cleansing the skin is an essential step for caring for the keratin materials, in particular the facial skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as dirt, excess sebum, and the remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up products can result in an unpleasant oily appearance. Several types of skin cleansing products, for example, rinsable cleansing anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams, lotions and gels, and non-foaming compositions are known.
Currently, human skin is cleaned and/or exfoliated using a number of different ways, such as cleansing products with or without mechanical scrubbing using hard particles of any kind. These particles are also called scrub beads. Classical cleansing or exfoliating compositions currently on the market can be categorized into cleansing compositions with or without scrub beads. It is known that the addition of scrub beads provides a stronger and better cleansing ability to the skin, in particular pore cleansing. These beads may be hydrocarbon wax beads, particles such as silica, and polyethylene (PE) beads.
However, there are several problems associated with each of these beads. Indeed:
- hydrocarbon wax beads are relatively large in size, notably 300 to 2000 μm, and tend to be soft in cleansing or exfoliating formula, which is not desired;
- particles such as silica tend to result in a too small size (i.e. nanoparticles) during production, which causes dust issue; and
- PE beads break during application, which is not applicable to cleansing purposes.
Besides, scrub beads that are known tend to be harsh after applying on the skin. This is even worse to consumers of sensitive skin type.
In other cases, sodium salts are used as scrub beads in cleansing and exfoliating compositions. However due to the existence of the high amount of salts, it is inevitable to use surfactants such as SLES (sodium lauryl sulfate) in order to maintain the foaming property of the composition. This type of surfactants are known for its strong cleansing ability, as well as harshness to the skin, in particular sensitive skin.
Therefore, it is needed to formulate compositions for caring for the keratin materials with very good cleansing and/or exfoliating properties, while at the same time maintaining mild and gentle feeling after application.
There is still a need for novel compositions with above described properties, and have a very good foaming property.
Moreover, there is a need for cleansing and/or exfoliating compositions with the properties mentioned above, and meanwhile stable over time.
The Applicant has now discovered that it is possible to formulate compositions having the desired properties as described above, by combining a specific surfactant with high amount of salt.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to a composition (also called “the composition of the invention” ) for caring for keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase:
a)at least one C 2-C 6 polyol;
b)at least one glycinate surfactant; and
c)at least 5%by weight of at least one water soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total amount of the composition.
The composition of the invention is able to deliver a gentle massage and cleansing to the skin, without any harsh feeling.
The composition of the present invention also delivers a good foaming effect during application.
It may be daily used as a facial or body cleanser and/or exfoliating composition. Moreover, the composition of the invention is stable over time. By stable, it is meant that the composition does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for  at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least two months after its manufacture.
According to an embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials with natural origin ingredients. Preferably, all the ingredients of the composition of the present invention are natural origin.
The composition of the present invention is a rinse off product. Thus, such a composition is applied on skin (i.e. face and/or body) , and then rinsed.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follows.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from...to..." .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Thus, the composition of the invention comprises, in an aqueous phase:
a) at least one C 2-C 6 polyol;
b) at least one glycinate surfactant; and
c) at least 5%by weight of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total amount of the composition.
C 2-C 6 polyol (s)
A polyol according to the present invention may preferably be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 2-C 6 polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, dialkylene polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof.
Mentions may be made to, as polyols useful in the composition of the present invention, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, hexalene glycol, or a mixture thereof.
Preferably the polyol of the present invention is chosen from linear C 2-C 4 polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, C 2-C 4 dialkylene polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof.
Preferably the polyol of the present invention is glycerin.
In particular, the composition of the present invention comprises from 10%to 70%by weight, more preferably from 20%to 60%by weight of the C 2-C 6 polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Glycinate surfactant (s)
The composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycerinate surfactant.
In one embodiment, said glyceinate surfactant is derived from a carboxylate salt of glycine wherein the amine group situated on the α-carbon or β-carbon of a glycinate is acylated with a C 8 to C 22 fatty acid derivative.
The carboxylate salts of these glycine can be formed by conventional means such as by neutralization of the glycine with a base.
The amine group situated on the α-carbon or β-carbon of the neutralized glycine is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the glycinate surfactant.
Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides.
The acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 to C 22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide) . Representative acyl halides include but are not limited to the acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride) , cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chlorides) tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride) , hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride) , octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride) , 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride) , eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride) , docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride) , and any mixture thereof.
Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the foregoing fatty acids. A method for preparing acyl halides as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids is set forth in US Patent Application Publication No. 2008/0200704, published on August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.
In one embodiment, said glycinate surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000001
wherein:
Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
X and Y are hydrogen group,
n is 0,
M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
Examples of the glycinate surfactants palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably in the formula (I) :
Z represents a saturated and linear C 8 to C 22 alkyl group,
X and Y are hydrogen group,
n is 0,
M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
References can be made to the commercially available amino acid surfactant of, for example, sodium N-cocoylglycinate sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000002
GCS-12K by the company Ajinomoto, potassium cocoyl glycinate sold under the name Eversoft YCK-100K by the company Sino Lion, or the product sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000003
GCK-12K by the company Ajinomoto, and a mixture thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the glycinate surfactant is sodium N-cocoylglycinate.
According to the present invention, the glycinate surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 2%to 20%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Water-soluble inorganic salt (s)
According to an embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 5%by weight of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.
By “water-soluble” it means that the solubility of the inorganic salt in water is at least 100 g/L at room temperature, preferably at least 200 g/L at room temperature.
According to an embodiment, the inorganic salt suitable for the composition of the present invention has a cation chosen from Na +, K +, Li +, Ca 2+, Mg 2+, Cu 2+, or Zn 2+, and an anion chosen from halides, HCO 3 -, or HPO 4 -.
Preferably, halides are used.
The cations are preferably mono-or divalent. Preferred cations are selected from Na, Ca, Li, K, Mg, Cu and Zn.
The preferred salts are chosen from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, lithium chloride, ammonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.
These salts are known for their good solubility in water, and therefore are very often used in the cosmetic formulation for adjusting pH value of the formulation, thickening the micellar system, or helping stabilizing the emulsions.
Surprisingly, the inventors found that the combination of the ingredients in the composition of the present invention enables the inorganic water soluble salts existing in form of particles in the composition, instead of solubilized, and therefore provides a scrubbing function to the skin during application. Consequently, the composition of the present invention delivers an excellent and mild exfoliation effect to the skin.
The inorganic salt may be present in the composition at a content greater than 5%by weight, preferably between 6%and 40%, preferably between 7%and 35%by weight, and more preferably between 10%and 30%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It was known to the man skilled in the art, that salts, in particular water-soluble inorganic salts has an impact on the foaming of compositions existing on the market. In particular, it prevents foam from generation, or defoams in cosmetic compositions. In order to overcome the issue, the conventional art used surfactants such as SLES, in combination with low amount of salts.
However, compositions of this type does not deliver an exfoliation effect, as the salt is not in form of particles in the composition. Besides, it failed to deliver a gentle and mild cleansing to the skin.
Surprisingly, the present invention makes it possible to formulate a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, which comprises a high amount of salt, in combination with a glycinate surfactant, and presents a very good foaming property.
According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the at least one C 2-C 6 polyol and the at least one water soluble inorganic salt is greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 5. According to this preferred embodiment, the ratio of the at least one C 2-C 6 polyol and the at least one water soluble inorganic salt can ensure a superior cleansing and exfoliating effect, due to the fact that the salts are in form of particles and deliver a desired scrubbing feeling to the skin.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is an aqueous solution.
According to an embodiment, the aqueous phase includes water.
According to an embodiment, the amount of water in the compositions according to the invention ranges from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 5%to 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in an aqueous phase, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
a)from 20%to 60%by weight of glycerin;
b)from 3%to 15%by weight of sodium N-cocoylglycinate; and
c)from 10%to 30%of at least one halide salt.
Additional ingredient (s)
Optionally, the present invention also relates to a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin ( “cosmetic composition” ) , comprising the composition of the invention as described above, and at least one additional ingredient.
According to an embodiment, the additional ingredients that are useful in the present invention include additional surfactants, such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, thickeners, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the additional surfactants are selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures.
Nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for  example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; ethanolamine and its derivatives, such as cocamide MEA; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) , such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C 8-C 20) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8-C 20) alkylamido (C 3-C 8) alkylbetaines and (C 8-C 20) alkylamido (C 6-C 8) alkylsulfobetaines.
Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (A1) and (A2) below:
R aCONHCH 2CH 2N + (R b) (R c) (CH 2COO -)  (A1)
in which:
· R a represents a C 10-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R aCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
· R b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and
· R c represents a carboxymethyl group;
and
R a'CONHCH 2CH 2N (B) (B')  (A2)
in which:
· B represents the group -CH 2CH 2OX',
· B'represents the group - (CH 2zY', with z=1 or 2,
· X'represents the group -CH 2COOH, CH 2COOZ', -CH 2CH 2COOH, -CH 2CH 2COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,
· Y'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2CHOHSO 3H or the group -CH 2CHOHSO 3Z',
· Z'represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine,
· R a'represents a C 10-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a'COON preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C 17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000004
C2M Concentrate.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8-C 20) alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine (or cocobetaine) , and (C 8-C 20) alkylamido (C 3-C 8) alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the additional surfactant is selected from oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, (C 8-C 20) alkylbetaines, or a mixture thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the additional surfactant, when exists, is selected from PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate, cocoylbetaine, or a mixture thereof.
According to an embodiment, when exists, the amount of additional surfactant (s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Optionally, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one thickener.
The thickeners may advantageously be chosen from xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000005
) , hydroxyethyl cellulose
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000006
carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000007
) , hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000008
Plus 330) , N-vinylpyrolidone (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000009
) , Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000010
3001) , hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000011
XL) , polyethoxylated urethanes or polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (e.g. PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI copolymer (e.g. 
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000012
44) , PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI copolymer (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000013
46) , trihydroxystearin (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000014
) , acrylates copolymer (e.g. available as 
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000015
33) or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (e.g. acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000016
22) , acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000017
88) , acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000018
38) , acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer (available as 
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000019
28) and acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (available as
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000020
ETD 2020) .
When exists, the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additive. A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties for these compositions are not affected by the additives.
The composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, in particular using a finger, or a cotton ball, a rod, a brush, gauze, or a spatula, and can be removed by rinsing with water.
The composition of the invention may be implemented so as to improve the general state of the epidermis, in particular the skin.
The present invention also relates to a method for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the invention.
The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin.
The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Preparation examples
The following formulas were prepared.
Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-000021
The comparative formulas A1 and A2 contain sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium laureth sulfate, respectively, instead of the glycinate surfactant as claimed in the present invention.
The formulas listed above were prepared according to known preparation methods in cosmetic field.
Example 2: Evaluation of the properties of the formulas listed above
The properties of the invention and comparative formulas listed above were evaluated by application of the above formulas as cleansing and exfoliating products by 30 consumers (15 males and 15 female) aged from 20-40.
The protocol was as follow:
placing 0.5 g of the above mentioned formulas on the palm, respectively;
mixing the formulas with 1 g of water with pipette;
rubbing between palms for 15 seconds (4 circles/second) ;
gathering foam in the palms to prevent from dripping;
evaluating volume and density of the foam obtained;
evaluating exfoliating effect of the formulas on the palm;
rinsing off the foam with water and evaluating the skin sensory (mildness) after application.
Finally, the foaming, exfoliating, as well as mildness were scored by the 30 consumers.
Score 5: at least 80%of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
Score 4: from 60%to 80% (not included) of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
Score 3: at least 50%of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
Score 2: more than 60%of consumers consider the effect being poor and unacceptable;
Score 1: more than 80%of consumers consider the effect being poor and unacceptable
The stability was measured after storage during one month at 4℃, 25℃ (room temperature or RT) , 40℃ or 45℃.
Stability tests are also performed under sun test and during several cycles.
Stability under sun test was performed by leaving the cosmetic composition of the invention in a Suntest CPS+produced by Atlas for 24 hours.
Cycle stability test was performed at a cycle of-20℃ to 20℃ every 24 hours, for 10 days.
The results of the evaluations are as follow:
Formula Stability Foaming Exfoliating Skin sensory
A 5 4 4 3
B 5 5 5 5
A1 1, immediate phase separation N/A N/A N/A
A2 3, thinner over time 2 4 2
The results show that both invention formulas A and B are stable over time, with an improved foaming and skin sensory (mildness) effect, in comparison to the comparative formula A2, besides, they also present excellent exfoliating effect to the skin.
In particular, the invention formula B possesses an excellent property in each of the tests listed above, and therefore is the preferred embodiment of the present invention.
On the other hand, the comparative formula A1 is not stable: phase separation is seen immediately after formulation.

Claims (14)

  1. A composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase:
    a) at least one C 2-C 6 polyol;
    b) at least one glycinate surfactant; and
    c) at least 5%by weight of at least one water soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total amount of the composition.
  2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the C 2-C 6 polyol is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 2-C 6 polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, dialkylene polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof; preferably selected from the group consisting of linear C 2-C 4 polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, C 2-C 4 dialkylene polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof; more preferably the polyol is glycerin.
  3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the C 2-C 6 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 10%to 70%by weight, more preferably from 20%to 60%by weight of the polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the glycinate surfactant is a compound of formula (I) ,
    Figure PCTCN2017118952-appb-100001
    wherein:
    Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
    X and Y are hydrogen group,
    n is 0,
    M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine;
    preferably in the formula (I) :
    Z represents a saturated and linear C 8 to C 22 alkyl group,
    n is 0,
    M, X and Y are as defined above.
  5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the glycinate surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 2%to 20%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.
  6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the water-soluble inorganic salt has a cation chosen from Na +, K +, Li +, Ca 2+, Mg 2+, Cu 2+, or Zn 2+, and an anion chosen from halides, HCO 3 -, or HPO 4 -; preferably the salt is selected from halides; more preferably the salt is chosen from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, lithium chloride, ammonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.
  7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the water-soluble inorganic salt is present in an amount ranging between 6%and 40%, preferably between 7%and 35%by weight, and more preferably between 10%and 30%by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.
  8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one C 2-C 6 polyol and the at least one water soluble inorganic salt is greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 5.
  9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water, in an amount ranging from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 5%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.
  10. A composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in an aqueous phase, by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition:
    a) from 20%to 60%by weight ofglycerin;
    b) from 3%to 15%by weight of sodium N-cocoylglycinate; and
    c) from 10%to 30%of at least one halide salt.
  11. The composition of any one ofthe preceding claims 1 to 10, further comprise at least one additional surfactant selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures; preferably selected from oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, (C 8-C 20) alkylbetaines, or a mixture thereof.
  12. The composition of any one ofthe preceding claims 1 to 11, further comprise at least one thickener.
  13. A method for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition of any one of claims 1 to 12.
  14. Use of the composition of any one of claims 1 to 12 for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin.
PCT/CN2017/118952 2017-12-27 2017-12-27 Composition for cleansing keratin materials Ceased WO2019127089A1 (en)

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EP4358926A4 (en) * 2021-06-24 2025-02-26 L'oreal COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND/OR REMOVING MAKEUP FROM KERATIN MATERIALS

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