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WO2019198426A1 - Composition stable comprenant des granules ou des agrégats - Google Patents

Composition stable comprenant des granules ou des agrégats Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019198426A1
WO2019198426A1 PCT/JP2019/011025 JP2019011025W WO2019198426A1 WO 2019198426 A1 WO2019198426 A1 WO 2019198426A1 JP 2019011025 W JP2019011025 W JP 2019011025W WO 2019198426 A1 WO2019198426 A1 WO 2019198426A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
composition according
starch
acid
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Ceased
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PCT/JP2019/011025
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English (en)
Inventor
Yao DU
Kazuhiko Maruyama
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which is stable and comprises granules or aggregates capable of breaking up or disappearing.
  • compositions that include granules such as particles for scrubbing are commonly used for cleansing skin such as that of the face.
  • JP-A-2017-52706 discloses a composition which includes particles satisfying specific shape requirements and can be used for massaging or cleansing skin such as that of the face.
  • the composition disclosed in JP-A-2017-52706 is suitable for, typically, leave-off cosmetic products such as skin cleansing products.
  • granules such as particles for scrubbing in conventional leave-off cosmetic products such as skin cleansing products do not break up or disappear when used. Therefore, if they are used in, for example, leave-on cosmetic products such as leave-on skin care products, granules will remain on a keratin substance such as skin, after the leave-on cosmetic products are applied onto the keratin substance, to provide a non-preferable feeling such as a powdery sensation. Also, they may cause an inhomogeneous or uneven finish which is not preferable for leave-on cosmetic products.
  • cosmetic compositions it is preferable for cosmetic compositions to be stable such that the appearance of the compositions does not change over time even under hot conditions.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can comprise granules or aggregates capable of breaking up or disappearing, which can be preferably used for leave-on cosmetic products.
  • ingredients (a) to (c) can form, in the composition, granules or aggregates capable of breaking up or disappearing.
  • the derivative of gellan gum may be a welan gum.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (a) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the derivative of salicylic acid may be selected from compounds represented by the formula (I):
  • Ri represents hydrogen or a saturated, linear, branched or cyclized aliphatic hydrocarbon group, or an alkoxy, ester or ketoxy group, or an unsaturated group having at least one conjugated or unconjugated double bond, where these groups may contain from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and be optionally substituted with at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups, and hydroxyl groups in a free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula (P) :
  • R* represents a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 3 represents hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents as defined above.
  • the amount of the ingredients) (b) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the derivative of starch may be selected from the group consisting of esterified starches and ether starches.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (c) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) water in the composition may be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one natural gum other than the ingredient(s) (a), preferably xanthan gum.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one oil.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably selected from nonionic surfactants.
  • the amount of the surfactants) in the composition may be from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W emulsion.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • composition is stable, and
  • ingredients (a) to (c) can form, in the composition, granules or aggregates capable of breaking up or disappearing.
  • composition according to the present invention can comprise granules or aggregates capable of breaking up or disappearing.
  • granules and aggregates capable of breaking up or disappearing.
  • the terms“granule” and“aggregate” herein mean an assembly of fine materials, and they are deformable by applying physical actions such as shearing force and heating.
  • The“granule” and“aggregate” herein does not mean a hard particle such as a filler and a pigment.
  • composition according to the present invention can be broken up or made to disappear by, for example, application with the fingers onto a keratin substance such as skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention can provide a homogeneous or even finish.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be preferably used for leave-on cosmetic products for the keratin substance.
  • composition according to the present invention can also provide a comfortable feeling to the touch. Also, the composition according to the present invention can prevent or reduce greasiness.
  • composition according to the present invention is suitable for skin cosmetics such as skincare and skin makeup products.
  • composition according to the present invention is stable such that the appearance of the composition does not change over a long period of time, e.g., at least a few months, at room
  • composition according to the present invention includes oil(s) and water, the phase separation of oil and aqueous phases can be prevented or reduced. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can maintain homogeneous aspects over time.
  • a natural gum other than the ingredient(s) (a) selected from gellan gum and derivatives thereof to the composition according to the present invention can improve or promote breaking up or disappearing of granules or aggregates.
  • composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one ingredient selected from gellan gum and derivatives thereof. If two or more ingredients (a) are used, they may be the same or different.
  • Gellan gum is a polysaccharide produced by aerobic fermentation of Sphingomonas elodea, more commonly known as Pseudomonas elodea. This linear polysaccharide contains sequences of the following monosaccharides: D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid, and L-rhamnose. In its native state, gellan gum is highly acylated.
  • the gellan gum used in various embodiments of the composition according to the present invention may be at least partially deacylated gellan gum.
  • This at least partially deacylated gellan gum may be obtained by a high-temperature alkaline treatment, such as in a KOH or NaOH solution.
  • the purified gellan gum sold under the trade name Kelcogel® by the company Kelco may be suitable for preparing the composition according to the present invention.
  • Gellan gum derivatives may be obtained by performing standard chemical reactions such as esterifications or addition of a salt of an organic or mineral acid.
  • An example of a gellan gum derivative that may be used in the present invention is welan gum.
  • Welan gum is a gellan gum modified by fermentation using the Alcaligenes strain ATCC 31 555.
  • Welan gum has a repeating pentasaccharide structure formed from a main chain consisting of D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid, and L-rhamnose units on which is grafted a pendent L-rhamnose or L-mannose unit.
  • the welan gum sold under the trade name Kelco Crete® by the company Kelco may be suitable for preparing the composition according to the present invention.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention includes (b) at least one ingredient selected from salicylic acid and derivatives thereof. If two or more ingredients (b) are used, they may be the same or different.
  • Salicylic acid is a compound represented by the following chemical formula
  • the derivatives of salicylic acid may be selected from compounds represented by the following formula (I) or a salt thereof:
  • Ri represents hydrogen or a saturated, linear, branched or cyclized aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkoxy, ester or ketoxy group, or an unsaturated group having at least one conjugated or unconjugated double bond, where these groups may contain from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and may be substituted with at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups, and hydroxyl groups in a free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester of formula (II):
  • t represents a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 3 represents hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents such as those listed above.
  • alkyl and alkenyl radicals containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms are suitable and are optionally substituted.
  • the preferred substituent is a hydroxyl radical.
  • compositions are prepared using derivatives of formula (G) where Ri contains at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • Ri may be a saturated linear alkyl or alkoxy radical having from 4 to 11 carbon atoms.
  • Derivatives of formula (I) in which R 2 is hydroxyl and R 3 is hydrogen include 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (CTFA name: Capiyloyl Salicylic Acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5- ethoxysalicylic acid, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, 5-propoxysalicylic acid, 5-methylsalicylic acid, 5- ethylsalicylic acid and 5-propylsalicylic acid, optionally treated with a base.
  • CFA name Capiyloyl Salicylic Acid
  • 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid
  • the derivative of formula (I) is a salicylic acid ester.
  • Preferred compounds include esters of fatty alcohols such as dodecyl, hexadecyl, steaiyl, cetyl, myristyl, linoleyl, octyl, oleyl and tridecyl alcohols, or esters of butyl, propyl and ethyl alcohols, or esters of polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol or glycerol, or mixtures of these esters.
  • Specific examples include cetyl salicylate, dodecyl salicylate and tridecyl salicylate.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the ingredients) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 2% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less and more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention includes (c) at least one ingredient selected from starch and derivatives thereof. If two or more ingredients (c) are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the nature of the starch used in the present invention may vary widely and be derived from any native source.
  • Typical native sources for the starch are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes and fruits.
  • the native source can be com, pea, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, sago, amaranth, tapioca, arrowroot, canna, oat, sorghum, and waxy or high amylose varieties thereof.
  • the starch used in the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of com starch, pea starch, potato starch, sweet potato starch, banana starch, barley starch, wheat starch, rice starch, sago starch, amaranth starch, tapioca starch, arrowroot starch, canna starch, oat starch, sorghum starch, and waxy or high amylose varieties thereof.
  • the term“high amylose” used herein is intended to include a starch containing at least about 40% by weight amylose.
  • the starch is selected from a group consisting of com starch, rice starch, and potato starch.
  • the starch derivatives may be the starch above which are modified chemically or physically.
  • the modification which can be applied to the starch includes, but is not limited to, oxidation, hydrogenation, enzyme conversion, water or acid hydrolysis, heat and/or acid dextrinization, cationization, esterification, etherification, graft reaction, pregelatinization, halogenation, and their combination.
  • the starch derivatives which can be used in the present invention includes, for example, hydrogenated starch, hydrolyzed starch, such as hydrolyzed wheat starch, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, and oxidized starch.
  • the starch derivatives may be esterified starch or its salt.
  • the esterified starch preferably used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of phosphorylated starch, starch acetate, oxidized starch acetate, starch laurate, sodium starch phosphate, alkyl or alkenyl succinated starch, such as calcium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate which is the starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and salts thereof, for example, sold under the name“Dry Flo Plus” from AKZO NOVEL, the potato starch esterified with a carboxymethyl group, sold under the name “Supramyl P 60” by Amylum, the com starch esterified with a hydroxypropyl group, sold under the name“Merigel EF6” by Amylum, the com starch preferably hydroxy
  • the starch derivatives may be ether starch or its salt.
  • the ether starch preferably used in the present invention is selected from the group consisting of carboxymethyl starch, such as sodium carboxymethyl starch sold under the name“GLYCOLYS” by ROQUETTE, hydroxypropyl starch, and sodium starch glyconate.
  • the starch derivatives may be crosslinked starch or its salt.
  • the crosslinked starch preferably used in the present invention is selected from the group consisting of phosphoric acid crosslinked starch, acetylated adipic acid crosslinked starch, acetylated phosphate-crosslinked starch, hydroxypropylated phosphate-crosslinked starch,
  • dimethylimidazofidinone rice starch hydroxypropylated phosphate-crosslinked starch, and distarch phosphate.
  • the starch derivative may be selected from the esterified or ether starch, and in particular alkyl or alkenyl succinated starch and ether starch.
  • the preferable alkyl or alkenyl succinated starch is octenylsuccinated starch or dodecenylsuccinated starch, such as calcium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and the com starch esterified with dodecenylsuccinic anhydride.
  • the preferable ether starch is carboxymethyl starch and its salt, and in particular sodium carboxymethyl starch.
  • the salts of the starch and the starch derivatives include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an acid or from a base.
  • a mineral acid selected more particularly from hydrochloric, boric, hydrobromic, hydroic, sulphuric, nitric, carbonic, phosphoric and tetrafluoroboric acids
  • an organic acid more particularly selected from acetic, propionic, succinic, fumaric, lactic, glycolic, citric, gluconic, salicylic, tartaric, terephthalic, methylsulphonic, ethylsulphonic, benzene sulphonic, toluene sulphonic and triflic acids.
  • a mineral base such as aqueous sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and sodium, potassium or calcium carbonates or hydrogencarbonates
  • an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
  • the salts of the starch and the starch derivatives may advantageously be selected from alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium salts; and ammonium salts.
  • the starch derivative may be selected from hydroxyalkyl-modified starches.
  • the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be in the form of a powder.
  • the hydroxyalkyl- modified starch may be in the form of a particle.
  • the particle size of the hydroxyalkyl- modified starch is not limited.
  • the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch is based on a base starch.
  • Base starch as used herein, is intended to include all starches derived from any native source, any of which may be suitable for use herein.
  • a native starch as used herein, is one as it is found in nature. Also suitable are starches derived from a plant obtained by standard breeding techniques including crossbreeding, translocation, inversion, transformation or any other method of gene or chromosome engineering to include variations thereof.
  • starch derived from a plant grown from artificial mutations and variations of the above generic starch which may be produced by known standard methods of mutation breeding, are also suitable herein.
  • Typical sources for the starches are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes and fruits.
  • the native source can be waxy varieties of com (maize), pea, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna, and sorghum, as well as low and high amylose varieties thereof.
  • low amylose starch is intended to include a starch containing no more than about 10%, particularly no more than 5%, and more particularly no more than 2% amylose by weight.
  • the term "high amylose” starch is intended to include a starch containing at least about 50%, particularly at least about 70%, and more particularly at least about 80% amylose by weight. High amylose starches may be preferable.
  • the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be pre-gelatinized.
  • Pre-gelatinization and techniques for achieving pre-gelatinization are known in the art and disclosed for example in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,465,702, 5,037,929, 5,131,953, and 5,149,799. Also see, Chapter CCP-''Production and Use of Pregelatinized Starch", Starch: Chemistry and Technology, Vol. 111-Industrial Aspects, R. L. Whistler and E. F.
  • pre-gelatinized is intended to mean swollen starch particles, which have lost their birefringence and/or maltese crosses in polarized fight.
  • pre-gelatinized starch derivatives are substantially soluble in cold water without cooking.
  • soluble does not necessarily mean the formation of a true molecular solution, but may also mean a colloidal dispersion.
  • the starch is completely pre-gelatinized.
  • the pre-gelatinized hydroxyalkyl-modified starch is easily and quickly soluble even in cold water.
  • Pre-gelatinization may be achieved by methods which include, without limitation, drum drying, extrusion and spray drying.
  • extrusion is used for the simultaneous cooking and drying of the starch (see for example U.S. Pat. No. 3,137,592). This process makes use of the physical processing of a starch/water mixture at elevated temperatures and pressures which brings about the gelatinization of the starch, followed by expansion after leaving the nozzle with sudden evaporation of the water.
  • pre-gelatinization is completed to provide good solubility and eliminate undissolved particles, which may give rise to an unpleasant, sandy feel in the composition.
  • the starch has a majority of intact starch granules.
  • Aqueous dispersions of pre- gelatinized starch derivatives having a largely intact granular structure typically have a more uniform smooth texture than aqueous dispersions of starches without a granular structure, which may have a slightly gritty feel.
  • pre-gelatinized starches with an intact granular structure the native internal structure of the hydrogen bonds is destroyed, but the external shape or form is maintained.
  • the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be crosslinked.
  • Crosslinking of the starch chains can be achieved by suitable crosslinking agents, that is, bifunctional compounds.
  • the crosslinking method used is phosphorylation, in which the starch is reacted with phosphorous oxychloride, phosphorous pentoxide, and/or sodium trimetaphosphate.
  • Two starch chains are crosslinked by an anionic P-0 group. The anionic character of the crosslinking sites assists the emulsion-stabilizing action of the starch to be used according to the present invention.
  • the crosslinking method is by means of C 4 -Ci 8 alkane or alkene dicarboxylic acids which include without limitation C 4 -C 8 alkane dicarboxylic acids, exemplified by adipic acid.
  • the alkane or alkene dicarboxylic acid links two starch chains via ester bonds. It can be in straight or branched chain form.
  • the derivatives may be obtained, for example, by reacting starch with the mixed anhydrides of dicarboxylic acid and acetic acid.
  • less than 0.1 weight percent based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used. In another embodiment, about 0.06 to 0.1 weight percent based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used.
  • the alkyl moiety of the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may have 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms, and more preferably 3 or 4 carbon atoms.
  • the position of the hydroxyl group, which is bound to the starch backbone via an alkyl group such as 2 to 6 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, is not critical and can be in the alpha to omega position.
  • the degree of substitution of the hydroxyalkylation is about 0.08 to 0.3.
  • the degree of substitution is the average number of substituted OH groups of the starch molecule per anhydroglucose unit.
  • the hydroxyalkylation of a starch can be brought about by reacting a native starch with alkylene oxides with the appropriate number of carbon atoms, including without limitation hydroxypropylation by reaction of the starch with propylene oxide.
  • the starch to be used according to the present invention can also contain more than one hydroxyl group per alkyl group.
  • the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate,
  • hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and a mixture thereof.
  • the processes use to prepare the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be conducted in any order.
  • hydroxypropylation would typically be conducted before crosslinking, if the starch is crosslinked, with phosphorous oxychloride as the typical hydroxypropylation process would destroy some of the crosslinking achieved.
  • hydroxyalkyl-modified starch preferably used in the present invention may include the following:
  • Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate pre-gelatinized, com starch marketed by Akzo Nobel as Structure ZEA and XL;
  • composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 % by weight or more, preferably 0.1 % by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention includes (d) water.
  • the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (d) water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition is of the O/W type, in particular in the form of an O/W emulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one natural gum other than gellan gum or a derivative thereof. If two or more such natural gums are used, they may be the same or different.
  • natural gum means a gum originating from a naturally occurring source as opposed to chemically synthesized gum.
  • the natural gums may be plant-derived or microorganism-derived. Examples of the plant-derived natural gums include guar gum, locust bean gum, mannan, beta-glucan, tara gum, agar, alginate, carrageenan, gum arabic, gum ghatti, karaya gum, and gum tragacanth.
  • microorganism-derived gums examples include xanthan gum.
  • preferred natural gums are mannans, xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, and carrageenans.
  • Particularly preferred natural gums are guar gum and xanthan gum.
  • the natural gums can be used alone or in combination with one or more different natural gums.
  • the amount of the natural gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the natural gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and more preferably 1 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the natural gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
  • oils means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non- volatile.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isosteaiyl neopentanoate.
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci-C 22 alcohols esters of
  • monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2- ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; tiiisosteaiyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecy
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sucgar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 - C 30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2- ethylhexyl capiylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate,
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capiyl caprylyl glycerides, glyceiyl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric
  • Triglyceride and glyceryl tri(caprate/capiylate/linolenate).
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane,
  • methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkyl siloxanes, especially liquid
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm3 ⁇ 4;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
  • the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
  • Ri to R l0 are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably Ci-C l2 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900 inclusive, preferably 0 and
  • silicones of the PK series from Bayer such as the product PK20;
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
  • Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
  • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6 -Ci 6 lower alkanes examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from C l2 -C 20 alkyl and Ci 2 -C 20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauiyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, ceteaiyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated Ci 2 -C 20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated Ci 2 -C 20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated Ci 6 -C 20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched Ci 6 -C 20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of lauiyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, octyldodecanol and hexyldecanol can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 % by weight or more, preferably 0.1 % by weight or more, and more preferably 1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oil(s) can form oil phase(s) of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition is of the O/W type, in particular in the form of an O/W emulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant. If two or more surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, preferably from nonionic surfactants.
  • the amount of the (c) surfactant(s) may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (c) surfactant(s) is not zero.
  • the amount of the (c) surfactant (s) may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) surfactants) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the anionic surfactant be selected from the group consisting of (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl ether sulfates, (C 6 -C 30 )alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaiyl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; (C 6 -C 3 o)alkylsulfonates, (C 6 -C3 0 )alkylamide sulfonates, (C 6 -C3o)alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; (C 6 -C3o)alkyl phosphates; (C 6 -C3o)alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C 6 -C3o)all ⁇ yl ether sulfosuccinates, (C 6 -
  • the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts such as salts of alkali metals, for instance sodium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in acid form.
  • the anionic surfactant be selected from salts of (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl sulfate, (C 6 - C 30 )alkyl ether sulfates or polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 3 o)aJkyl ether carboxylic acid salified or not.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quatemized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain including 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate).
  • amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine
  • optionally quatemized amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain including 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate).
  • amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.
  • amphoteric surfactant be selected from betaine-type surfactants.
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of
  • alkylbetaines alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and
  • alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines in particular, (C 8 -C 24 )alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 24 )alkylamido(Ci- C 8 )alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and (C 8 -C 24 )alkylamido(Ci-C 8 )alkylsulphobetaines.
  • the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C 8 -C 24 )alkylbetaines, (C 8 - C 24 )alkylamido(C i -C 8 )alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
  • Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA
  • laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
  • amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:
  • Rj denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,
  • R 2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R 3 denotes a carboxymethyl group
  • M + denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metals such as sodium; ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • X denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci- C 4 )sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C 4 )- or alkyl(C l -C 4 )aryl-sulfonates, particularly methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or M + and X are not present;
  • Rf denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Rf-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C 7 , C 9 , C 11 or C 13 alkyl radical, a C 17 alkyl radical and its iso-form, or an unsaturated C 17 radical,
  • X' denotes a -CH 2 -COOH group, -CH 2 -COOZ ⁇ -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ’ or a hydrogen atom, and
  • Y denotes a -COOH, -COOZ’, -CH2-CH0H-S03Z’, -CH 2 -CH0H-S0 3 H radical or a -CH 2 -CH(OH)- SO3-Z’ radical,
  • Z’ represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;
  • Y denotes -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ”, -CH 2 -CH(0H)-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CH(0H)-S0 3 -Z”, wherein Z” denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metal or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium, an ion derived from organic amine or an ammonium ion;
  • Rd and Re denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical
  • R a denotes a C 10 -C 30 group alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid
  • n and n’ independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric surfactant with formula Bl and B2 be selected from (C8-C2 4 )-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (C 8 -C 24 )alkyl amphodiacetates, (C 8 -C 24 )alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (C 8 - C 24 )alkyl amphodipropionates.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • compounds of formula (B’2) mention may be made of sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide (CTFA) marketed by CHIMEX under the denomination C1TMEXANE HB.
  • CFA diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include, but are not limited to:
  • Rj, R 2 , R 3 , and Rt which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C 2 -C 6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (Ci2-C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C 6 )alkyl, (C l2 -C22)alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaiyl-sulfonates;
  • R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
  • Re is chosen from hydrogen, Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • R 7 is chosen from Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals
  • Re is chosen from hydrogen and C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals
  • X is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • R5 and Re are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 is methyl and R is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;
  • R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the group -(CH 2 )3
  • R11, R12, R13, R14, Ri6a, Ri7a, and R l8a which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • X is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
  • An example of one such diquatemaiy ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P of FINETEX (Quatemium- 89) or FINQUAT CT (Quatemium-75);
  • quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:
  • R22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl radicals and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R23 is chosen from:
  • R27 linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ] -C 22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, and hydrogen, R25 is chosen from:
  • Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29, and hydrogen, R24, R26, and R 28 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 7 -C 2i , hydrocarbon-based radicals;
  • r, s, and t which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R 25 denotes R29.
  • R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 27
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 29
  • R 24 , R 26 , and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2.
  • the anion X may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and Ci- C 4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate.
  • halides such as chloride, bromide, and iodide
  • Ci- C 4 alkyl sulfates such as methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium including an ester function are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention.
  • the anion X is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
  • ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein:
  • R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals
  • x and y are equal to 1;
  • z is equal to 0 or 1;
  • r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R23 is chosen from:
  • R2 5 is chosen from:
  • R 24 , R 26 , and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl- hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
  • ammonium salts that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include the ammonium salts including at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.
  • quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (G), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as
  • benzyldimethylsteaiylammonium chloride palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the company Van Dyk.
  • the cationic surfactant that may be used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Quatemium-83, Quatemium-87, Quatemium-22,
  • palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178).
  • they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30.
  • Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.
  • the nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalJkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
  • Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include: :
  • the surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50. According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty ester polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid
  • polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauiyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (Laureth-lO to Laureth-l2, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-lO to Ceteareth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-lO to Ceteth-50, as the CTFA names).
  • polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol or C 8 -C 30 alcohols
  • examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or C 8 -C 30 alcohols) include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (Oleth-lO to Oleth-40, as the CTFAnames); and mixture thereof.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 4 o alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name:
  • Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is preferable to use the Cs/Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the Cio/Ci 2 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate PEG-9 to PEG-50
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably Ci 2 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably Ci 2 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and
  • polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, and/or alkylglycose) esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably Ci 2 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugar and a C 8 -C 24 , preferably Ci 2 -C 22 , fatty alcohol or alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
  • sugar saccharide, maltose, glucose, fructose, and/or alkylglycose
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFAname: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate), such as PEG- 20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate) can be cited.
  • CTFAname glyceryl stearate
  • glyceryl stearate 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFAname: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
  • the sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema
  • esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFAname: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic
  • CTFAname Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate
  • CFAname Methyl glucose isostearate
  • CFAname Methyl glucose laurate
  • CTFAname Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate
  • CTFAname Methyl glucose sesquistearate
  • Glucate SS the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL
  • ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFAname: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFAname: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited.
  • CTFAname PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate
  • CTFAname P
  • sucrose esters saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate and saccharose monolaurate can for example be cited.
  • alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco- glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetosteaxyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE
  • glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.
  • the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains alkenyl or a branched C l2 -C 22 acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula:
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants.
  • silicone surfactants Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A- 5364633 and US-A-5411744.
  • the silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I):
  • Ri, R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, represent a Ci-C 6 alkyl radical or a radical -(CH 2 ) X - (OCH 2 CH2) r (OCH 2 CH 2 CH2) z -OR4, at least one radical Ri, R 2 or R 3 not being an alkyl radical; IN being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;
  • A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
  • B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
  • the alkyl radical is a methyl radical
  • x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
  • A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105
  • B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10
  • y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (PI):
  • DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 are compounds of formula (P) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; Ais 103, B is 10 and y is 12; Ais 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
  • the compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (HI) in which A is 15 and y is 13.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be of the ester type.
  • the nonionic surfactant of ester type may be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.
  • the polyglyceiyl fatty acid ester have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols, and further more preferably 2 to 6 glycerols.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of from 7.0 to 14.0, preferably from 8.0 to 13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of all the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.
  • HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, capiylic acid, and myristic acid.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricapiylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 sesquiisostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 cap
  • polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from:
  • polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units
  • polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units
  • polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester raw material may be chosen from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably with a polyglyceiyl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerins, more preferably 2 to 6 glycerins, wherein the mixture preferably comprises 30% by weight or more of a polyglyceiyl fatty acid ester with a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 2 to 6 glycerins.
  • the polyglyceiyl fatty acid ester raw material comprise esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing 70% or more of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 2 or more, preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 60% of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is between 2 and 6, and more preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 30% of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 2 to 6.
  • nonionic surfactant of ester type may be selected from the group consisting of monounsaturated esters, polyglyceryl diesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactant of ester type comprise or consist of a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglyceryl diester.
  • the nonionic surfactant of ester type may be a mixture comprising:
  • R 1 and R 2 represent, respectively, a Ci 8 to CM fatty chain, at least one of R 1 or R 2 is monounsaturated; ii) at least one polyglyceryl diester of formula (B)
  • R 3 and R 4 represent, respectively, a saturated C l8 to C 44 fatty chain, linear or branched, and n is an integer between 2 and 6;
  • R 1 and R 2 represent, respectively, a C l8 -C 40 fatty chain, more preferably a Ci 8 -C 30 fatty chain. At least one of R 1 or R 2 is monounsaturated.
  • the R’-C(O) group corresponds to the residue of a fatty acid.
  • the R 1 may be linear or monounsaturated, and comprises at least 18 carbon atoms. Mention can be made of oleic (08:1), gadoleic (C20:l), emcic (C22:l) acid, up to hexaconenoic (C26:l) acid as unsaturated acids.
  • the R*-C(0) group may also be derived from branched and saturated acids of at least 18 carbon atoms, also called Guerbet acids.
  • the R 2 -0- group may be derived from monounsaturated linear fatty alcohols with at least 18 carbon atoms.
  • the carbon chain of the alcohol may also be branched and saturated and comprise at least 18 carbon atoms. Such alcohols are also called Guerbet alcohols.
  • the monounsaturated ester of formula (A) is a mixture of esters comprising various lengths of fatty chains in their structures. More preferably, such a monounsaturated ester is liquid at ambient temperature.
  • a preferred monounsaturated ester that can be mentioned is, for example, the product commonly called jojoba oil (or jojoba esters), the liquid nature being due to the presence of monounsaturated chains.
  • This oil comprises in particular C 18 : 1 (preferably minority), C20: 1 and C22: 1 (preferably majority with C20: l>C22: 1) unsaturated fatty acid esters, with C20: 1 , C22: 1 and C24: 1 unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • the R 3 -C(0)- group corresponds to the residue of a C l8 to C44 fatty acid, said acid usually being linear and saturated, and preferably corresponds to a linear and saturated C 20 to C34 fatty acid.
  • This therefore includes eicosanoic (or arachidic) acid (C20), docosanoic (or behenic) acid (C22), tetracosanoic (or hgnoceric) acid (C2 4 ), and hexacosanoic (or cerotic) acid (C26).
  • the R 4 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, said alcohol usually being saturated and linear and having a Ci 8 to C44 chain, preferably C20 to C 34 chain n is an integer between 2 and 6, preferably from 2 and 4, and more preferably 3.
  • the polyglyceiyl diester may be obtained by esterification of a solid wax in the presence of at least one polyol.
  • Waxes have a complex composition. They have the common feature of containing a mixture of acid monoesters and very long chain fatty alcohols such as C10-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxyacid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid.
  • hydroxyacid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid.
  • said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol.
  • Beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, ouricury wax, Shellac wax and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.
  • the solid wax is beeswax.
  • Solid waxes suitable for obtaining the polyglyceryl diester have a melting point between 50 and 90°C. They correspond to mixtures essentially comprising monoesters having the formula R'-C(0)-0-R 2 , where the R'-C(O)- group corresponds to the residue of a fatty acid, said acid usually being linear and saturated and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 18, and in particular 20, and preferably up to 44 and more preferably 34.
  • the mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxyacid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, for beeswax.
  • the R 2 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, said alcohol usually being saturated and linear and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 18, and in particular 20, preferably up to 44 and more preferably 34.
  • said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol.
  • Beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, ouricuty wax, Shellac wax and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.
  • the solid wax suitable for the esterification reaction is beeswax.
  • the polyol used for esterification is selected from the group comprising ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methyl propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, trimethylol propane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol and polyglycerol (i.e. a polymer of glycerol units). More preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol, having an average degree of polymerization between 2 and 6, preferably of 3.
  • the polyol is polyglycerol-3.
  • the (b) nonionic surfactant of ester type is a wax derivative obtained by reacting together at least one solid wax and at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A) in the presence of at least one polyol and optionally at least one catalyst.
  • a transesterification reaction occurs between the various chemical entities yielding the wax derivative.
  • the preferred catalysts are hydroxides or alkaline or alkaline earth alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium or sodium carbonates or catalysts based on tin or titanium.
  • the solid wax is advantageously selected from the group comprising camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, beeswax and Shellac wax.
  • the wax derivative is obtained by reacting jojoba oil (also called as jojoba wax), beeswax and a polyglycerol, such as polyglycerol-3.
  • the reaction is preferably conducted at a temperature of between 100°C and 220°C, advantageously between l50°C and 200°C.
  • the monounsaturated ester/solid wax mass ratio varies between 5/95 and 95/5, and advantageously between 30/70 and 75/25.
  • the esters of formula (A) and (B)/polyol mass ratio preferably varies between 1/99 and 99/1, and advantageously between 95/5 and 50/50.
  • the proportion of esterified polyol represents between 0.5 and 50% by weight of the mixture
  • the proportion of esterified fatty acids represents between 20 and 60% by weight of the mixture
  • the proportion of esterified fatty alcohols represents between 20 and 60% by weight of the mixture.
  • the nonionic surfactant of ester type may further comprise a diester of a C l4 -C22 fatty acid with a polyglycerol.
  • the Cn-Cn fatty acid may be chosen from the group of myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and arachidic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyglycerol may be a polymer of glycerol units, preferably a polymer having an average degree of polymerization between 4 and 8, preferably of 6.
  • said diester is a diester of distearic acid with hexaglycerol.
  • it is polyglyceryl-6 distearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant of ester type may further comprise a fatty alcohol containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, steaiyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (b) nonionic surfactant of ester type be a mixture comprising at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A) wherein R 1 and R 2 represent, respectively, a C l8 -C3o fatty chain, and at least one of R 1 or R 2 is monounsaturated; at least one polyglyceryl diester of formula (B) wherein, R 3 and R 4 each represent a saturated C 20 to C 34 fatty chain, linear or branched; and cetyl alcohol.
  • the nonionic surfactant of ester type be a mixture of at least an ester obtained by esterification of a solid wax with a polyol, of a fatty acid diester with a polyglycerol, of a jojoba wax (preferably a jojoba wax ester), and of a fatty alcohol.
  • Said ester is non-ionic.
  • Said mixture comprises from 5 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the mixture of jojoba wax; from 3 to 15% by weight of cetyl alcohol; at least 50% by weight of polyglyceryl-6 distearate; and from 3 to 15% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.
  • the nonionic surfactant of ester type may be a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and cetyl alcohol.
  • the amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the surfactants) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
  • the composition according to the present invention is preferably acidic. Therefore, it is preferable that the pH of the composition be from 1 to 6, more preferably from 2 to 5, and even more preferably from
  • acidifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • basifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and also their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxide and compounds of the formula below:
  • W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • Ra, 3 ⁇ 4 Rc and R d independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by l,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.
  • the acidifying or basifying agent may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients (a) to (d), as essential ingredients, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
  • the method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as an O/W or a W/O form.
  • composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W form, such as an O/W emulsion.
  • the O/W architecture or structure which consists of oil phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore products based on the O/W architecture or structure are more pleasant to use because of the feeling of immediate freshness that they can provide.
  • composition according to the present invention is of the O/W type, preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion, it comprises oil phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.
  • the dispersed oil phases can be recognized as oil droplets in the aqueous phase.
  • the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin substance.
  • the keratin substance here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include skin, hair, mucous membranes, lips, nails and the like.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used in a cosmetic process for a keratin substance comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.
  • the composition according to the present invention is preferable for leave-on cosmetic products, more preferably for skin and/or hair, and even more preferably for skin.
  • the present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention, as it is or in care products and/or make-up products for body and/or facial skin and/or hair and other keratin fibers and/or mucous membranes and/or tips and/or nails.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as the above product.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of the above product.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form the above product.
  • the care product may be in the form of not only a liquid (e.g., a lotion), a cream, and the like but also a stick, a bar, and the like.
  • the make-up product may be in the form of a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blusher, a nail varnish, and the like.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3 shown in Tables 1 and 2, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2 are all based on“% by weight” as active raw materials.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were evaluated as follows.
  • NA not available (due to the absence of fine granules or aggregates)
  • compositions according to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were filled into a transparent glass bottle and was held under the conditions of 45 °C for two months. Two months later, each sample was visually evaluated under the following criteria: Excellent: Almost the same as immediately after preparation. No separation or coalescence, as well as no creaming, was observed.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-7 which include the following ingredients (a) to (d):
  • compositions are stable and can form, in the composition, granules or aggregates which is capable of breaking up or disappearing.
  • composition according to Examples 1-7 can also provide a comfortable feeling to the touch.
  • the composition according to the present invention can prevent or reduce greasiness, and can be stable over a long period of time even under hot conditions.
  • Example 2 Based on the comparison between Example 1 and Example 2, it can be understood that the addition of natural gum, such as xanthan gum, other than gellan gum can improve or promote breaking up or disappearing of granules or aggregates.
  • natural gum such as xanthan gum
  • Comparative Example 1 shows that the presence of starch or a derivative thereof is necessary to make the composition stable. Also, the comparison of Comparative Example 1 shows that the presence of starch or a derivative thereof can enhance the formation of granules or aggregates, which results in using less amount of natural gums to further contribute to a comfortable feeling to the touch without greasiness.
  • Comparative Example 2 shows that the presence of salicylic acid or a derivative thereof is necessary to form granules or aggregates and to make the composition stable.
  • Comparative Example 3 shows that the presence of gellan gum or a derivative thereof is necessary to form granules or aggregates and to make the composition stable. Also, it can be understood that gellan gum or a derivative thereof can contribute to a comfortable feeling to the touch without greasiness.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition stable comprenant : (a) au moins l'un choisi parmi la gomme gellane et ses dérivés; (b) au moins l'un choisi parmi l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés; (c) au moins l'un choisi parmi l'amidon et ses dérivés; et (d) de l'eau, les ingrédients (a) à (c) pouvant former, dans la composition, des granules ou des agrégats aptes à se rompre ou à disparaître. Les granules ou agrégats peuvent être décomposés ou amenés à disparaître par des actions physiques telles qu'une application avec les doigts. Ainsi, la composition selon la présente invention peut fournir une finition homogène ou régulière. Par conséquent, la composition selon la présente invention peut être utilisée de préférence pour des produits cosmétiques sans rinçage. De plus, la composition selon la présente invention est stable de telle sorte que l'aspect de la composition ne change pas sur une longue période de temps, comme au moins quelques mois, même dans des conditions de température élevée (chaude).
PCT/JP2019/011025 2018-04-10 2019-03-12 Composition stable comprenant des granules ou des agrégats Ceased WO2019198426A1 (fr)

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Cited By (2)

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WO2020116480A1 (fr) * 2018-12-07 2020-06-11 L'oreal Composition comprenant deux esters d'acide gras de polyglycéryle
WO2021102715A1 (fr) * 2019-11-27 2021-06-03 Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd. Composition de conditionnement

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