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WO2019069836A1 - A composition including ellagic acid compound - Google Patents

A composition including ellagic acid compound Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019069836A1
WO2019069836A1 PCT/JP2018/036615 JP2018036615W WO2019069836A1 WO 2019069836 A1 WO2019069836 A1 WO 2019069836A1 JP 2018036615 W JP2018036615 W JP 2018036615W WO 2019069836 A1 WO2019069836 A1 WO 2019069836A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
phosphate
weight
composition according
compound
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PCT/JP2018/036615
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French (fr)
Inventor
Yukinori Yamada
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority to CN201880063640.3A priority Critical patent/CN111107908B/en
Priority to KR1020207009073A priority patent/KR102452729B1/en
Priority to EP18796137.0A priority patent/EP3691754A1/en
Publication of WO2019069836A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019069836A1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/24Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/28Zirconium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/556Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10General cosmetic use
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/524Preservatives

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, including at least one ellagic acid compound, preferably for a keratinous substance such as skin.
  • compositions such as cosmetic or dermatological products, including one or more ellagic acid compound have problems in terms of color change over time.
  • a method for encapsulating ellagic acid compound(s) has been proposed (cf. JP-A-2005-2012).
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition including one or more ellagic acid compounds with increased stability such that the color of the composition does not substantially change over time.
  • composition preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, chosen from: a group OM with M representing an alkali metal, a group OR*, in which R 4 represents a linear, branched, cyclic or aromatic C 5 -C 40 alkyl group, an OH group, and an oxyethylene group (OCH 2 CH 2 )n(OCH 2 CHCH 3 ) m OR with R representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, and n and m being integers with n ranging from 1 to 50 and m ranging from 0 to 50,
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of trioleyl phosphate, tri-C 12-15 Pareth-10 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of monoester phosphate of alkoxylated fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms with from 1 to 50 moles of alkylene oxide selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and dialkyl phosphates of non-alkoxylated alcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, and a combination of oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from glycerophospholipids represented by the general formula (XV):
  • R 1 and R 2 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and possibly substituted with one or more hydroxyl and/or amine functions, and
  • X represents a substituent of general formula R 3 R 4 R 5 N + -CH(R 6 )-CH 2 - in which R 3 , R4, R 5 and R 6 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and/or a carboxyl function.
  • the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition may be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) metal oxide may be selected from titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the (c) metal oxide may not be coated.
  • the (c) metal oxide may be present in a coating of a substrate, preferably in the form of a particle.
  • the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) water in the composition may be from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for preventing or reducing the color change of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water, comprising the step of adding (b) at least one phosphate compound to the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one phosphate compound for preventing or reducing the color change of a composition
  • a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water.
  • compositions including one or more ellagic acid compounds with increased stability such that the color of the composition does not substantially change over time.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention is stable such that the color thereof does not substantially change, preferably does not change, in particular in terms of yellow or blown color. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention does not provide consumers with a negative impression.
  • the composition according to the present invention can keep the ellagic acid compound(s) active, because the non-change in color of the composition implies that the ellagic acid compound(s) can maintain its original form and does not react with any substance. Since ellagic acid compound(s) can act as a whitening agent, the composition according to the present invention can preferably be used for whitening a keratin substance such as skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one ellagic acid compound; (b) at least one phosphate compound; (c) at least one metal oxide; and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1 % by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition, and even more preferably a cosmetic care composition for a keratin substance such as skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic or
  • dermatological product for whitening the keratin substance such as skin.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one ellagic acid compound.
  • Two or more ellagic acid compounds may be used in combination.
  • a single type of an elagic acid compound or a combination of different types of ellagic acid compounds may be used.
  • the (a) ellagic acid compound encompasses ellagic acid as well as its salts, its metal complexes, its monoether or polyether, monoacylated or polyacylated derivatives and its carbonate or carbamate derivatives deriving from hydroxyl groups.
  • the (a) ellagic acid compound can form a chelating ring with an ion such as a metal ion or a different ellagic acid compound.
  • Ellagic acid is represented by the following chemical formula.
  • Ellagic acid can be obtained, for example, from Minasolve (the product name: Minacare Elage).
  • the salts of ellagic acid may comprise, in particular, metal salts, especially alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts; amine salts such as the salts of methylglutamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, choline or bis(triethylamine); salts of amino acids, especially salts of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and ornithine.
  • metal salts especially alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts
  • amine salts such as the salts of methylglutamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, choline or bis(triethylamine
  • salts of amino acids especially salts of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and ornithine.
  • the metal complexes of ellagic acid may comprise, in particular, metal complexes with zinc and copper.
  • the monoether or polyether derivatives of ellagic acid may comprise, in particular, alkoxy derivatives having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or else condensation derivatives of one or more hydroxyl groups of ellagic acid with a sugar or a chain of sugars. In particular, it is
  • 3-methoxyellagic acid or monoether or polyether derivatives with sugars such as glucose, arabinose, rhamnose and galactose.
  • the monoacylated or polyacylated derivatives of ellagic acid may comprise, in particular, saturated or unsaturated acyl groups having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • these acyl groups correspond to acetic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, stearic acid, brassidic acid, erucic acid, behenic acid and (all
  • the aforementioned ether or acylated derivatives may be obtained by polyphenol
  • the (a) ellagic acid compound may be represented by the following chemical formula:
  • each of R 1 to R 4 independently denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkoxy group, an polyoxyalkylene group, or a sugar represented by the following formula:
  • Rs denotes a hydrogen atom or alkoxy group.
  • alkyl group a C 1-20 alkyl group, preferably a C 1-10 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an isopropyl group, a butyl group, an isobutyl group, a tert-butyl group, a pentyl group, a neopentyl group, a hexyl group, a cyclohexyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group and a decyl group.
  • the alkyl group may be substituted with a halogen group, such as fluorine atom, or a hydroxyl group.
  • alkoxy group mention may be made of a C 1-20 alkoxy group, preferably a C 1-6 alkoxy group, such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, a propoxy group and a butoxy group.
  • the alkoxy group may be substituted with a halogen group, such as fluorine atom, or a hydroxyl group. It is not necessary for the composition according to the present invention to include any capsule and the like in order to encapsule the (a) ellagic acid compound(s).
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition may be 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, more preferably 0.4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 0.7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) elagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 0.8%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound (s) in the composition according to the present invention be from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the, present invention comprises (b) at least one phosphate compound.
  • Two or more (b) phosphate compounds may be used in combination.
  • a single type of a phosphate compound or a combination of different types of phosphate compounds may be used.
  • phosphate compound here means a compound which has at least one phosphate group.
  • the "phosphate compound” may have at least one phosphoric acid group, in particular one phosphoric acid group.
  • the phosphate compound may be selected from organic phosphates, inorganic phosphates and mixtures thereof.
  • the inorganic phosphate be selected from inorganic salts of phosphoric acid, such as metal or ammonium salts of phosphoric acid.
  • the inorganic phosphate be in the form of a metal salt.
  • the metal salt may be alkaline metal salts.
  • the alkaline metal salt may be selected from alkaline metal salts of phosphoric acid, such as mono-, di- or tri-sodium phosphate, and mono-, di-, or tri-potassium phosphate. Dipotassium phosphate may be even more preferable.
  • the organic phosphate be selected from esters of phosphoric acid, such as mono-, di- or tri-organophosphates.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, chosen from:
  • M representing an alkali metal such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K
  • R represents a linear, branched, cyclic or aromatic C 5 -C 40 alkyl group, preferably a C 12 -C 20 alkyl group, and more preferably a C1 6 or C 18 alkyl group,
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are a group -OM and at least one of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is a group -OR* or -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) n (OCH 2 CH(CH 3 )) m OR wherein n and m denote as defined above.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is a group -OM, at least one of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is a group -OH, and at least one of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is a group -OR4 or -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) n (OCH 2 CH(CH 3 )) m OR wherein n and m denote as defined above.
  • one of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is a group -OM
  • one of R l9 R 2 and R 3 is a group -OH
  • one of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is a group -OR4 or -(OCH 2 CH 2 )n(OCH 2 CH(CH 3 )) m OR wherein n and m denote as defined above.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may also be preferable that, in the above formula (XIV), at least one, or two, or even all of the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 contain(s) a group -OR , in which R4 represents a linear or branched C 10 -C 3 o, in particular C 15 -C 20 or even Ci 6 or Ci 8 alkyl group.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be identical or different.
  • trioleyl phosphate such as Nikkol TDP sold by the company Nikko Chemicals
  • the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and of an ether of ethylene glycol and of C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohols (about 10 EO) (INCI name: Tri-C 12-15 Pareth-10 phosphate)
  • Nikkol TDP- 10 sold by the company Nikko Chemicals
  • potassium cetyl phosphate such as Amphisol K sold by the company DSM Nutritional Products or Arlatone MAP 160 K from Uniqema
  • ceteth-10 phosphate such as Protaphos CET-10 by the company Protameen Chemicals.
  • the (b) phosphate compound has the function of a surfactant.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be a phosphate surfactant.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of monoester phosphate of alkoxylated fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms with from 1 to 50 moles of alkylene oxide selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and dialkyl phosphates of non-alkoxylated alcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkyl moiety of the fatty alcohol or the non-alkoxylated alcohol may be a linear or branched, or saturated or unsaturated alkyl group.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, and a combination of oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate.
  • CRODAFOS CES marketed by Croda Inc., U.S.A.
  • CRODAFOS CS-20 ACID marketed by Croda Inc., U.S.A.
  • oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate mention may be made of
  • CRODAFOS HCE CRODAFOS HCE, marketed by Croda Inc., U.S.A.
  • glycophospholipid is intended to denote an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and phosphoric acid, the said phosphoric acid being substituted with a compound chosen from alcohols bearing an amine function, especially a ⁇ -amino alcohol.
  • the ⁇ -amino alcohol may be chosen, for example, from choline, ethanolamine and/or serine.
  • the glycerophospholipid may be defined according to the general formula (XV) below:
  • Ri and R 2 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and possibly substituted with one or more hydroxyl and/or amine functions, and
  • X represents a substituent of general formula R 3 R 4 R 5 N + -CH(R 6 )-CH 2 - in which R 3 , R 4 , R 5 and R 6 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and/or a carboxyl function.
  • X may especially be chosen from choline, serine and ethanolamine.
  • R 1 and R 2 are advantageously chosen from butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, caproleic acid, lauric acid, lauroleic acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, isostearic acid, dihydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid.
  • the glycerophospholipid may also be a mixture of compounds of general formula (XV).
  • the glycerophospholipid that is suitable for use in the invention may, for example, comprise phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine and/or phosphatidylserine.
  • the glycerophospholipid may comprise an ester of glycerol, of unsaturated fatty acid, of phosphoric acid and of choline, also known as phosphatidylcholine (PC).
  • the glycerophospholipid that is suitable for use in the invention may be derived from lecithin.
  • the lecithin may comprise, predominantly, phosphatidylcholine as glycerophospholipid.
  • PC phosphatidylcholine
  • Natural PC may be obtained by extraction from animal or plant sources, for instance soybean, sunflower or egg.
  • the non-hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine obtained naturally, for instance from soybean generally contains as glycerol-esterifying fatty acid palmitic acid, stearic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and, optionally, C 20-C22 fatty acids.
  • synthetic phosphatidylcholine is intended to denote phosphatidylcholine comprising at least one fatty acid different from those that may be present in natural PCs.
  • synthetic PC is also intended to denote natural PC subjected to modifications, such as partial hydrogenation, i.e. only a fraction of the double bonds present in the unsaturated fatty acids is maintained.
  • Emulmetik 930 sold by the company Lucas Meyer.
  • the glycerophospholipid that is suitable for use in the present invention may be introduced into the composition in the form of a lecithin.
  • This lecithin is generally obtained by lipid extraction using apolar solvents, from plant or animal fats.
  • This lipid fraction usually comprises, predominantly, glycerophospholipids including phosphatidylcholine or
  • lecithins that are suitable for use in the present invention may be lecithins derived from soybean, from sunflower or from egg and/or mixtures thereof.
  • Lecithins are usually provided in dissolved form in fatty acids, triglycerides or other solvents, or in the form of powders or cakes. They are usually mixtures of lecithins, in which the glycerophospholipid content in the products as sold generally ranges from about at least 15% to about at least 95%.
  • the lecithin used as starting material for the preparation of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 45% by weight, for example at least 65% by weight, for example at least 75% by weight, for example at least 85% by weight, or for example at least 95% by weight of glycerophospholipid relative to the total weight of the lecithin.
  • lecithins that may be suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of the lecithins sold under the references Nattermann Phospholipid®, Phospholipon 80® and Phosale 75® by the company American Lecithin Company, and Epikuron 145V, Topcithin 300, Emulmetik 930 and Ovothin 200 sold by the company Lucas Meyer.
  • the glycerophospholipid may be a non-hydrogenated glycerophospholipid, i.e. an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one unsaturated fatty acid and phosphoric acid, the said phosphoric acid being substituted with a compound chosen from alcohols bearing an amine function, especially a ⁇ -amino alcohol.
  • the glycerophospholipid may be phosphatidylcholine or lecithin.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be chosen from trioleyl phosphate, the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and of an ether of ethylene glycol and of C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohols (about 10 EO), potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, cetyl phosphate and lecithin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (b) phosphate compound may be a nonionic surfactant such as trioleyl phosphate or the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and of an ether of ethylene glycol and of C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohols (about 10 EO).
  • the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the
  • the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10%) by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one metal oxide.
  • Two or more (c) metal oxides may be used in combination.
  • a single type of metal oxide or a combination of different types of metal oxides may be used.
  • the (c) metal oxide may be selected from titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the titanium oxide is preferably titanium dioxide.
  • the titanium oxide may be amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form.
  • the (c) metal oxide is in the form of a particle, in particular pigments, and more preferably nanopigments.
  • the particle size (such as volume- or weight-average particle diameter) of the particle of the (c) metal oxide can be from 1 nm to 100 ⁇ m, preferably from 5 nm to 50 ⁇ m, and more preferably from 10 nm to 30 ⁇ m.
  • the (c) metal oxide may or may not be coated.
  • the coated metal oxide may be treated nanopigments which have undergone one or more surface-treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina or glycerol.
  • chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum)
  • the treated nanopigments may be coated titanium oxide such as titanium oxides treated with: silica and alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" and
  • alumina and aluminum stearate such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T" from the company Tayca,
  • alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from the company Tayca,
  • iron oxides and iron stearate such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from the company Tayca,
  • silica, alumina and silicone such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS” and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS” from the company Tayca,
  • sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W” from the company Tayca,
  • octyltrimethoxysilane such as the product "T-805" from the company Degussa,
  • alumina and stearic acid such as the product "UVT-M 160" from the company Kemira, alumina and glycerol, such as the product "UVT-M212". from the company Kemira, and alumina and silicone, such as the product "UVT-M262" from the company Kemira.
  • the treated zinc oxides may be, for example, those sold by the company Sunsmart under the name "Z-COTE HP 1". It is preferable that the (c) metal oxide be uncoated.
  • the uncoated metal oxide may be untreated titanium oxides such as those sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B”.
  • the uncoated metal oxide may be untreated zinc oxides such as those sold by the company Sumitomo under the name "Ultra Fine Zinc Oxide Powder” by the company Presperse under the name "Finex 25", by the company Ikeda under the name "MZO-25” or by the company Sunsmart under the name "Z-COTE”.
  • the (c) metal oxide may be introduced into the compositions according to the present invention as is or in the form of a pigmentary paste, that is to say mixed with a dispersing agent, as described in document GB-A-2,206,339, for example,. It is possible that the (c) metal oxide is present in a coating or coatings of a substrate, preferably a particle, in particular a pigment, and more preferably a pearlescent pigment. For example, the (c) metal oxide may be present in a coating or coatings of a pearlescent pigment such as titanium oxide-coated mica and titanium-oxide coated glass particle. The coating(s) may not be further coated, and therefore may be exposed to environments:
  • a pearlescent pigment such as titanium oxide-coated mica and titanium-oxide coated glass particle can be used.
  • particulate titanium dioxide particle or mica (and) titanium oxide be used as the (c) metal oxide.
  • the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the
  • the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention be from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)
  • composition according to the present invention includes (d) water.
  • the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention be 72% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85%) by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention be 78% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention be from 72% to 78%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • a single type of a nonionic surfactant or a combination of different types of nonionic surfactants may be used.
  • nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178).
  • they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30.
  • Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol (C 6 -C 24 )alkylpolyglycosides; N-(C 6 -C 24 )alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (C 10 -C
  • N-(C 10 -C 14 )acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides N-(C 10 -C 14 )acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated,
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
  • monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include:
  • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acids and of polyalkylene glycols are examples of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acids and of polyalkylene glycols,
  • the surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol) and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid).
  • polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (Laureth-10 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to
  • Steareth-50 as the CTFA names
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol or C 8 -C 30 alcohols
  • examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or C 8 -C 30 alcohols) include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (Oleth-10 to Oleth-40, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the C 8 /C 10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol it is preferable to use the C 8 /C 10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate PEG-9 to PEG-50
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate) can be cited.
  • polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof mono-, di- or
  • surfactants such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
  • the sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name:
  • polysorbate 65 sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.
  • esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl
  • ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited.
  • sucrose esters saccharose palmito-stearate
  • saccharose
  • alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name
  • ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed, for example, under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for
  • the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains alkenyl or a branched C 12 -C 22 acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula:
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants.
  • silicone surfactants Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
  • the silicone surfactant ma preferably be a compound of formula (I):
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical or a radical
  • R 1 , R 2 or R 3 not being alkyl radical
  • R 4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical
  • A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
  • B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
  • z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
  • the alkyl radical is a methyl radical
  • x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
  • A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105
  • B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10
  • y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III):
  • A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
  • Compounds of the present invention which may be used are those sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667.
  • the compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
  • the compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13.
  • the composition according to the present invention may also comprise any optional additive(s) usually used in the field of cosmetics, chosen, for example, from oils, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, solvents, gums, resins, hydrophilic thickening agents, hydrophobic thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, film-forming agents, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, pH adjusting agents, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents other than the ingredient (a), such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • any optional additive(s) usually used in the field of cosmetics chosen, for example, from oils, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, solvents, gums, resins, hydrophilic thickening agents, hydrophobic thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, film-forming agents, preserving
  • At least one acidifying agent and/or at least one basifying agent may be used.
  • the acidifying agents can be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, or sulphonic acids.
  • the acidifying agent may be present in an amount ranging from less than 5% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight or less, and more preferably from 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the basifying agent or alkaline agent can be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agents which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:
  • R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, or a C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine, and derivatives thereof.
  • Arginine, urea, and monoethanolamine may be preferable.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one water-miscible solvent such as a lower monoalcohol containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, C 3 -C 4 ketones or C 3 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • the water-miscible solvent that can preferably be used is ethanol.
  • the content of water-miscible solvent can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the step of
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. It is possible to further mix any of the optional ingredients.
  • compound(s) and the (d) water be mixed firstly, and then the mixture be further mixed with the (c) metal oxide(s) to obtain the composition according to the present invention.
  • the mixing can be performed at any temperature such as room temperature (e.g., 20-25°C, preferably at 25°C), preferably at a temperature of 30°C or more, preferably 40°C or more, and more preferably 50°C or more. It may be preferable to further mix with any of the above-described optional ingredients such as a pH adjusting agent.
  • composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as a W/O emulsion, an O/W emulsion, a gel, a solution, or the like. It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention may be used as a cosmetic or
  • dermatologic composition preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition, for a keratin substance.
  • a cosmetic composition preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition, for a keratin substance.
  • keratin substance mention may be made of the skin, scalp, hair, mucosa such as lips, and nails.
  • composition according to the present invention may be used as an anti-oxidant, whitening, or anti-bacterial product for a keratinous substance such as skin.
  • a keratinous substance such as skin.
  • composition according to the present invention may be used as a whitening product.
  • composition according to the present invention may preferably be intended for
  • a keratin substance such as the skin, scalp and/or the lips, preferably the skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for a keratin substance, preferably the skin.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process, preferably a whitening process, for a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising the step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used as a topical cosmetic composition in the form of a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a paste, a serum, foam, or spray.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for preventing or reducing the color change, preferably the color change over time, and more preferably the color change into yellow or blown over time, of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water, comprising the step of adding (b) at least one phosphate compound to the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the above composition can be 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the explanations regarding the (a) ellagic acid compound(s), the (b) phosphate compound(s), the (c) metal oxide(s) and the (d) water for the composition according to the present invention can apply to the above color stabilization process according to the present invention.
  • composition used in the use according to the composition may include any of the optional ingredients as explained above for the composition according to the present invention.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one phosphate compound for preventing or reducing the color change, preferably the color change over time, and more preferably the color change into yellow or blown over time, of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water.
  • the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the above composition can be 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the use according to the composition may include any of the optional ingredients as explained above for the composition according to the present invention.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-7 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
  • the measurements (1) and (2) were performed with a color meter (Konica Minolta, CM-700d, Portable Spectrophotometer).
  • Examples 1 and 2 show that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 which include a phosphate compound (potassium cetyl phosphate) can prevent or reduce the color change over time of the compositions.
  • a phosphate compound potassium cetyl phosphate
  • Example 3 shows that the composition according to Example 3 which includes another phosphate compound (cereth-10 phosphate) can prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
  • another phosphate compound cereth-10 phosphate
  • Example 4 shows that the composition according to Example 4 which includes another phosphate compound (dipotassium phosphate) can prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
  • Comparative Examples 1 and 2 show that the compositions according to Comparative
  • Examples 1 and 2 which do not include the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
  • Comparative Examples 1 and 2 also show that the color change over time is caused by titanium oxide in the form of not only a particle but also a coating of another particle such as mica.
  • Comparative Example 3 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 3 which includes an anionic surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
  • an anionic surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate
  • Comparative Example 4 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 4 which includes another anionic surfactant (sodium cocoyl glycinate) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
  • Comparative Example 5 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 5 which includes a cationic surfactant (palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
  • Comparative Example 6 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 6 which includes another cationic surfactant (cetrimonium chloride) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
  • Comparative Example 7 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 7 which includes an amphoteric surfactant (cocamidopropyl betaine) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
  • an amphoteric surfactant cocamidopropyl betaine
  • Examples 1 to 4 demonstrate that a phosphate compound can prevent or reduce the color change, preferably the color change over time, and more preferably the color change into yellow or blown over time, of a composition comprising an ellagic acid compound, metal oxide, and water.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant : (a) au moins un composé d'acide ellagique ; (b) au moins un composé de phosphate ; (c) au moins un oxyde métallique ; et (d) de l'eau, la quantité du ou des (a) composés d'acide ellagique dans la composition étant de 0,1 % en masse ou plus par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. La présente invention peut fournir une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs composés d'acide ellagique présentant une stabilité accrue de sorte que la couleur de la composition ne change pas sensiblement au cours du temps.The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one ellagic acid compound; (b) at least one phosphate compound; (c) at least one metal oxide; and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compounds in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition. The present invention can provide a composition comprising one or more ellagic acid compounds having increased stability so that the color of the composition does not change substantially over time.

Description

DESCRIPTION
A COMPOSITION INCLUDING ELLAGIC ACID COMPOUND
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, including at least one ellagic acid compound, preferably for a keratinous substance such as skin.
BACKGROUND ART
Compositions, such as cosmetic or dermatological products, including one or more ellagic acid compound have problems in terms of color change over time. Up to the present date, in order to solve this problem, a method for encapsulating ellagic acid compound(s) has been proposed (cf. JP-A-2005-2012).
However, encapsulating ellagic acid and/or salt(s) thereof is not easy. DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition including one or more ellagic acid compounds with increased stability such that the color of the composition does not substantially change over time.
The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) at least one ellagic acid compound;
(b) at least one phosphate compound ;
(c) at least one metal oxide; and
(d) water,
wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of
(1) the compounds of formula (XIV):
Figure imgf000002_0001
with R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, chosen from: a group OM with M representing an alkali metal, a group OR*, in which R4 represents a linear, branched, cyclic or aromatic C5-C40 alkyl group, an OH group, and an oxyethylene group (OCH2CH2)n(OCH2CHCH3)mOR with R representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, and n and m being integers with n ranging from 1 to 50 and m ranging from 0 to 50,
(2) glycerophospholipids, and
(3) mixtures thereof
The (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of trioleyl phosphate, tri-C12-15 Pareth-10 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, and mixtures thereof. The (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of monoester phosphate of alkoxylated fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms with from 1 to 50 moles of alkylene oxide selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and dialkyl phosphates of non-alkoxylated alcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
The (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, and a combination of oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate. The (b) phosphate compound may be selected from glycerophospholipids represented by the general formula (XV):
Figure imgf000003_0001
in which
R1 and R2 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and possibly substituted with one or more hydroxyl and/or amine functions, and
X represents a substituent of general formula R3R4R5N+-CH(R6)-CH2- in which R3, R4, R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and/or a carboxyl function.
The amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition may be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (c) metal oxide may be selected from titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and mixtures thereof.
The (c) metal oxide may not be coated. The (c) metal oxide may be present in a coating of a substrate, preferably in the form of a particle.
The amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (d) water in the composition may be from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The present invention also relates to a process for preventing or reducing the color change of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water, comprising the step of adding (b) at least one phosphate compound to the composition.
The present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one phosphate compound for preventing or reducing the color change of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition including one or more ellagic acid compounds with increased stability such that the color of the composition does not substantially change over time.
Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
(a) at least one ellagic acid compound;
(b) at least one phosphate compound;
(c) at least one metal oxide; and
(d) water,
wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is stable such that the color thereof does not substantially change, preferably does not change, in particular in terms of yellow or blown color. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention does not provide consumers with a negative impression. In addition, the composition according to the present invention can keep the ellagic acid compound(s) active, because the non-change in color of the composition implies that the ellagic acid compound(s) can maintain its original form and does not react with any substance. Since ellagic acid compound(s) can act as a whitening agent, the composition according to the present invention can preferably be used for whitening a keratin substance such as skin.
Hereafter, the composition, process, use and the like according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner. [Composition]
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one ellagic acid compound; (b) at least one phosphate compound; (c) at least one metal oxide; and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1 % by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition, and even more preferably a cosmetic care composition for a keratin substance such as skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic or
dermatological product for whitening the keratin substance such as skin.
The above ingredients (a) to (d) as well as the other features of the composition according to the present invention will be explained below.
(Ellagic Acid Compound)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one ellagic acid compound. Two or more ellagic acid compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of an elagic acid compound or a combination of different types of ellagic acid compounds may be used.
The (a) ellagic acid compound encompasses ellagic acid as well as its salts, its metal complexes, its monoether or polyether, monoacylated or polyacylated derivatives and its carbonate or carbamate derivatives deriving from hydroxyl groups.
It may be preferable that the (a) ellagic acid compound can form a chelating ring with an ion such as a metal ion or a different ellagic acid compound.
Ellagic acid is represented by the following chemical formula. Ellagic acid can be obtained, for example, from Minasolve (the product name: Minacare Elage).
Figure imgf000005_0001
The salts of ellagic acid may comprise, in particular, metal salts, especially alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts; amine salts such as the salts of methylglutamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, choline or bis(triethylamine); salts of amino acids, especially salts of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and ornithine.
The metal complexes of ellagic acid may comprise, in particular, metal complexes with zinc and copper. The monoether or polyether derivatives of ellagic acid may comprise, in particular, alkoxy derivatives having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or else condensation derivatives of one or more hydroxyl groups of ellagic acid with a sugar or a chain of sugars. In particular, it is
3-methoxyellagic acid or monoether or polyether derivatives with sugars such as glucose, arabinose, rhamnose and galactose.
The monoacylated or polyacylated derivatives of ellagic acid may comprise, in particular, saturated or unsaturated acyl groups having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, these acyl groups correspond to acetic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, stearic acid, brassidic acid, erucic acid, behenic acid and (all
Z)-5,8, 11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid.
The aforementioned ether or acylated derivatives may be obtained by polyphenol
etherification or acylation methods well known to one skilled in this art. Some may also be obtained by extraction from plants.
The (a) ellagic acid compound may be represented by the following chemical formula:
Figure imgf000006_0001
wherein
each of R1 to R4 independently denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkoxy group, an polyoxyalkylene group, or a sugar represented by the following formula:
Figure imgf000006_0002
Rs denotes a hydrogen atom or alkoxy group.
As the above alkyl group, mention may be made of a C1-20 alkyl group, preferably a C1-10 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an isopropyl group, a butyl group, an isobutyl group, a tert-butyl group, a pentyl group, a neopentyl group, a hexyl group, a cyclohexyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group and a decyl group. The alkyl group may be substituted with a halogen group, such as fluorine atom, or a hydroxyl group.
As the above alkoxy group, mention may be made of a C1-20 alkoxy group, preferably a C1-6 alkoxy group, such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, a propoxy group and a butoxy group. The alkoxy group may be substituted with a halogen group, such as fluorine atom, or a hydroxyl group. It is not necessary for the composition according to the present invention to include any capsule and the like in order to encapsule the (a) ellagic acid compound(s).
The amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition may be 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, more preferably 0.4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 0.7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (a) elagic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 0.8%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound (s) in the composition according to the present invention be from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Phosphate Compound)
The composition according to the, present invention comprises (b) at least one phosphate compound. Two or more (b) phosphate compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of a phosphate compound or a combination of different types of phosphate compounds may be used.
The term "phosphate compound" here means a compound which has at least one phosphate group.
The "phosphate compound" may have at least one phosphoric acid group, in particular one phosphoric acid group. The phosphate compound may be selected from organic phosphates, inorganic phosphates and mixtures thereof.
It may be preferable that the inorganic phosphate be selected from inorganic salts of phosphoric acid, such as metal or ammonium salts of phosphoric acid.
It may be more preferable that the inorganic phosphate be in the form of a metal salt. The metal salt may be alkaline metal salts. The alkaline metal salt may be selected from alkaline metal salts of phosphoric acid, such as mono-, di- or tri-sodium phosphate, and mono-, di-, or tri-potassium phosphate. Dipotassium phosphate may be even more preferable. It may also be preferable that the organic phosphate be selected from esters of phosphoric acid, such as mono-, di- or tri-organophosphates.
According to one embodiment, the (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of
(1) the compounds of formula (XIV):
Figure imgf000008_0001
with R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, chosen from:
a group OM with M representing an alkali metal such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K,
a group OR4, in which R represents a linear, branched, cyclic or aromatic C5-C40 alkyl group, preferably a C12-C20 alkyl group, and more preferably a C16 or C18 alkyl group,
an OH group, and
an oxyethylene group (OCH2CH2)n(OCH2CHCH3)mOR with R representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, for example a C5-C18 and a C12-C15 alkyl group, and n and m being integers with n ranging from 1 to 50, or being equal to 10, and m ranging from 0 to 50, or being equal to 0,
(2) glycerophospholipids, and
(3) mixtures thereof
It may be preferable that, in the above formula (XIV), at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is a group -OM and at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is a group -OR* or -(OCH2CH2)n(OCH2CH(CH3))mOR wherein n and m denote as defined above.
It may also be preferable that, in the above formula (XIV), at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is a group -OM, at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is a group -OH, and at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is a group -OR4 or -(OCH2CH2)n(OCH2CH(CH3))mOR wherein n and m denote as defined above. It may also be preferable that, in the above formula (XIV), one of R1, R2 and R3 is a group -OM, one of Rl9 R2 and R3 is a group -OH, and one of R1, R2 and R3 is a group -OR4 or -(OCH2CH2)n(OCH2CH(CH3))mOR wherein n and m denote as defined above.
It may also be preferable that, in the above formula (XIV), at least one, or two, or even all of the radicals R1, R2 and R3 contain(s) a group -OR , in which R4 represents a linear or branched C10-C3o, in particular C15-C20 or even Ci6 or Ci8 alkyl group. In this case, R1, R2 and R3 may be identical or different.
As non-limiting illustrations of these compounds of formula (XIV), mention may be made, for example, of trioleyl phosphate such as Nikkol TDP sold by the company Nikko Chemicals, the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and of an ether of ethylene glycol and of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (about 10 EO) (INCI name: Tri-C12-15 Pareth-10 phosphate) such as Nikkol TDP- 10 sold by the company Nikko Chemicals, potassium cetyl phosphate such as Amphisol K sold by the company DSM Nutritional Products or Arlatone MAP 160 K from Uniqema, and ceteth-10 phosphate such as Protaphos CET-10 by the company Protameen Chemicals. It may be preferable that the (b) phosphate compound has the function of a surfactant. Thus, the (b) phosphate compound may be a phosphate surfactant. The (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of monoester phosphate of alkoxylated fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms with from 1 to 50 moles of alkylene oxide selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and dialkyl phosphates of non-alkoxylated alcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. The alkyl moiety of the fatty alcohol or the non-alkoxylated alcohol may be a linear or branched, or saturated or unsaturated alkyl group.
The (b) phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, and a combination of oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate.
As a product including a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, mention may be made of CRODAFOS CES, marketed by Croda Inc., U.S.A. As a product including a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, mention may be made of CRODAFOS CS-20 ACID, marketed by Croda Inc., U.S.A. As a product including a combination of oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate, mention may be made of
CRODAFOS HCE, marketed by Croda Inc., U.S.A.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "glycerophospholipid" is intended to denote an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and phosphoric acid, the said phosphoric acid being substituted with a compound chosen from alcohols bearing an amine function, especially a β-amino alcohol. The β-amino alcohol may be chosen, for example, from choline, ethanolamine and/or serine.
The glycerophospholipid may be defined according to the general formula (XV) below:
Figure imgf000009_0001
in which:
Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and possibly substituted with one or more hydroxyl and/or amine functions, and
X represents a substituent of general formula R3R4R5N+-CH(R6)-CH2- in which R3, R4, R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and/or a carboxyl function. X may especially be chosen from choline, serine and ethanolamine. According to one embodiment, R1 and R2, independently of each other, are advantageously chosen from butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, caproleic acid, lauric acid, lauroleic acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, isostearic acid, dihydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid.
The glycerophospholipid may also be a mixture of compounds of general formula (XV).
The glycerophospholipid that is suitable for use in the invention may, for example, comprise phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine and/or phosphatidylserine.
According to one embodiment, the glycerophospholipid may comprise an ester of glycerol, of unsaturated fatty acid, of phosphoric acid and of choline, also known as phosphatidylcholine (PC). The glycerophospholipid that is suitable for use in the invention may be derived from lecithin. The lecithin may comprise, predominantly, phosphatidylcholine as glycerophospholipid.
The phosphatidylcholine (PC) that is suitable for use in the compositions in accordance with the invention may be of "natural" or "synthetic" origin.
"Natural" PC may be obtained by extraction from animal or plant sources, for instance soybean, sunflower or egg. The non-hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine obtained naturally, for instance from soybean, generally contains as glycerol-esterifying fatty acid palmitic acid, stearic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and, optionally, C20-C22 fatty acids.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "synthetic phosphatidylcholine" is intended to denote phosphatidylcholine comprising at least one fatty acid different from those that may be present in natural PCs.
The term "synthetic PC" is also intended to denote natural PC subjected to modifications, such as partial hydrogenation, i.e. only a fraction of the double bonds present in the unsaturated fatty acids is maintained. Among the sources of more or less purified phosphatidylcholine that are suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of Emulmetik 930 sold by the company Lucas Meyer.
The glycerophospholipid that is suitable for use in the present invention may be introduced into the composition in the form of a lecithin. This lecithin is generally obtained by lipid extraction using apolar solvents, from plant or animal fats. This lipid fraction usually comprises, predominantly, glycerophospholipids including phosphatidylcholine or
phosphatidylethanolamine. The lecithins that are suitable for use in the present invention may be lecithins derived from soybean, from sunflower or from egg and/or mixtures thereof.
Lecithins are usually provided in dissolved form in fatty acids, triglycerides or other solvents, or in the form of powders or cakes. They are usually mixtures of lecithins, in which the glycerophospholipid content in the products as sold generally ranges from about at least 15% to about at least 95%.
In an exemplary embodiment, the lecithin used as starting material for the preparation of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 45% by weight, for example at least 65% by weight, for example at least 75% by weight, for example at least 85% by weight, or for example at least 95% by weight of glycerophospholipid relative to the total weight of the lecithin. Among the lecithins that may be suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of the lecithins sold under the references Nattermann Phospholipid®, Phospholipon 80® and Phosale 75® by the company American Lecithin Company, and Epikuron 145V, Topcithin 300, Emulmetik 930 and Ovothin 200 sold by the company Lucas Meyer.
The glycerophospholipid may be a non-hydrogenated glycerophospholipid, i.e. an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one unsaturated fatty acid and phosphoric acid, the said phosphoric acid being substituted with a compound chosen from alcohols bearing an amine function, especially a β-amino alcohol.
The terms "unsaturated" and "unsaturation" are intended to denote the presence of at least one, or even several, double or triple bonds between two carbon atoms.
The glycerophospholipid may be phosphatidylcholine or lecithin.
The (b) phosphate compound may be chosen from trioleyl phosphate, the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and of an ether of ethylene glycol and of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (about 10 EO), potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, cetyl phosphate and lecithin, and mixtures thereof.
The (b) phosphate compound may be a nonionic surfactant such as trioleyl phosphate or the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and of an ether of ethylene glycol and of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (about 10 EO). The amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the
composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10%) by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention be from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Metal Oxide)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one metal oxide. Two or more (c) metal oxides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of metal oxide or a combination of different types of metal oxides may be used.
The (c) metal oxide may be selected from titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and mixtures thereof. The titanium oxide is preferably titanium dioxide. The titanium oxide may be amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form.
It is preferable that the (c) metal oxide is in the form of a particle, in particular pigments, and more preferably nanopigments. The particle size (such as volume- or weight-average particle diameter) of the particle of the (c) metal oxide can be from 1 nm to 100 μm, preferably from 5 nm to 50 μm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 30 μm.
The (c) metal oxide may or may not be coated.
The coated metal oxide may be treated nanopigments which have undergone one or more surface-treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina or glycerol.
The treated nanopigments may be coated titanium oxide such as titanium oxides treated with: silica and alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" and
"Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA" from the company Tayca, and the products "Tioveil Fin", "Tioveil OPERATIONS MANAGER", "Tioveil MOTG" and "Tioveil IPM" from the company Tioxide,
alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T" from the company Tayca,
alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from the company Tayca,
iron oxides and iron stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from the company Tayca,
silica, alumina and silicone, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS" from the company Tayca,
sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" from the company Tayca,
octyltrimethoxysilane, such as the product "T-805" from the company Degussa,
alumina and stearic acid, such as the product "UVT-M 160" from the company Kemira, alumina and glycerol, such as the product "UVT-M212". from the company Kemira, and alumina and silicone, such as the product "UVT-M262" from the company Kemira. The treated zinc oxides may be, for example, those sold by the company Sunsmart under the name "Z-COTE HP 1". It is preferable that the (c) metal oxide be uncoated.
The uncoated metal oxide may be untreated titanium oxides such as those sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B".
The uncoated metal oxide may be untreated zinc oxides such as those sold by the company Sumitomo under the name "Ultra Fine Zinc Oxide Powder" by the company Presperse under the name "Finex 25", by the company Ikeda under the name "MZO-25" or by the company Sunsmart under the name "Z-COTE".
The (c) metal oxide may be introduced into the compositions according to the present invention as is or in the form of a pigmentary paste, that is to say mixed with a dispersing agent, as described in document GB-A-2,206,339, for example,. It is possible that the (c) metal oxide is present in a coating or coatings of a substrate, preferably a particle, in particular a pigment, and more preferably a pearlescent pigment. For example, the (c) metal oxide may be present in a coating or coatings of a pearlescent pigment such as titanium oxide-coated mica and titanium-oxide coated glass particle. The coating(s) may not be further coated, and therefore may be exposed to environments:
Accordingly, as the (c) metal oxide in the present invention, a pearlescent pigment such as titanium oxide-coated mica and titanium-oxide coated glass particle can be used.
It is preferable that particulate titanium dioxide particle or mica (and) titanium oxide be used as the (c) metal oxide.
The amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention be 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the
composition. The amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (c) metal oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention be from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)
The composition according to the present invention includes (d) water.
The amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention be 72% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85%) by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention be 78% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention be from 72% to 78%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Nonionic Surfactant)
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of a nonionic surfactant or a combination of different types of nonionic surfactants may be used.
The nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides or
N-(C10-C14)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated,
polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated
C8-C30 alcohols,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides,
esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyalkylene glycols,
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol,
saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated plant oils,
condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures.
The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50. According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol) and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid).
Examples of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (Laureth-10 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Steareth-10 to
Steareth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
Examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (Oleth-10 to Oleth-40, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants,
monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are preferably used.
In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0]m-H or RO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH20]m-H in which R represents a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10. As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is preferable to use the C8/C10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
R'O-[CH2-CH(CH2OR"')-0]m-R" or RO-[CH(CH2OR"')-CH20]m-R" in which each of R', R" and R'" independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO-radical, with the proviso that at least one of R', R" and R'" is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.
Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate); and mixtures thereof. According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, and/or alkylglycose) esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugar and a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohol or alcohols; and mixtures thereof. As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate) can be cited.
Mixtures of these surfactants, such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
The sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name:
polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.
As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof can be cited.
As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited. As sucrose esters, saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate and saccharose monolaurate can for example be cited.
As sugar ethers, alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name
ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed, for example, under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof can in particular be cited. Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.
The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains alkenyl or a branched C12-C22 acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula:
HO(C2H40)a(C3H60)b(C2H40)cH in which a, b and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.
According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744. The silicone surfactant ma preferably be a compound of formula (I):
Figure imgf000018_0001
in which:
R1, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a radical
-(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4, at least one radical R1, R2 or R3 not being alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
Figure imgf000019_0001
in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III):
Figure imgf000019_0002
in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20. Compounds of the present invention which may be used are those sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
The compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13. (Optional Additives) The composition according to the present invention may also comprise any optional additive(s) usually used in the field of cosmetics, chosen, for example, from oils, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, solvents, gums, resins, hydrophilic thickening agents, hydrophobic thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, film-forming agents, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, pH adjusting agents, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents other than the ingredient (a), such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
As the pH adjusting agent, at least one acidifying agent and/or at least one basifying agent (alkaline agent) may be used. The acidifying agents can be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, or sulphonic acids. The acidifying agent may be present in an amount ranging from less than 5% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight or less, and more preferably from 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The basifying agent or alkaline agent can be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agents which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:
Figure imgf000020_0001
wherein
R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and R1, R2, R3, and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine, and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea, and monoethanolamine may be preferable.
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one water-miscible solvent such as a lower monoalcohol containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, C3-C4 ketones or C3-C4 aldehydes. The water-miscible solvent that can preferably be used is ethanol. The content of water-miscible solvent can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the above optional additives which may be present in the composition in accordance with the present invention such that the desired cosmetic properties are not thereby affected.
[Preparation] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the
above-described essential and optional ingredients in a conventional manner.
For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the step of
mixing
(a) at least one ellagic acid compound;
(b) at least one phosphate compound ;
(c) at least one metal oxide; and
(d) water,
such that the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. It is possible to further mix any of the optional ingredients.
It may be more preferable that the (a) ellagic acid compound(s), the (b) phosphate
compound(s) and the (d) water be mixed firstly, and then the mixture be further mixed with the (c) metal oxide(s) to obtain the composition according to the present invention.
The mixing can be performed at any temperature such as room temperature (e.g., 20-25°C, preferably at 25°C), preferably at a temperature of 30°C or more, preferably 40°C or more, and more preferably 50°C or more. It may be preferable to further mix with any of the above-described optional ingredients such as a pH adjusting agent.
The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as a W/O emulsion, an O/W emulsion, a gel, a solution, or the like. It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion.
[Cosmetic Process]
The composition according to the present invention may be used as a cosmetic or
dermatologic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition, for a keratin substance. As the keratin substance, mention may be made of the skin, scalp, hair, mucosa such as lips, and nails.
The composition according to the present invention may be used as an anti-oxidant, whitening, or anti-bacterial product for a keratinous substance such as skin. In particular, the
composition according to the present invention may be used as a whitening product.
The composition according to the present invention may preferably be intended for
application onto a keratin substance such as the skin, scalp and/or the lips, preferably the skin.
Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for a keratin substance, preferably the skin. In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process, preferably a whitening process, for a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising the step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
The composition according to the present invention can be used as a topical cosmetic composition in the form of a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a paste, a serum, foam, or spray.
[Color Stabilization Process]
The present invention also relates to a process for preventing or reducing the color change, preferably the color change over time, and more preferably the color change into yellow or blown over time, of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water, comprising the step of adding (b) at least one phosphate compound to the composition.
The amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the above composition can be 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. The explanations regarding the (a) ellagic acid compound(s), the (b) phosphate compound(s), the (c) metal oxide(s) and the (d) water for the composition according to the present invention can apply to the above color stabilization process according to the present invention.
The composition used in the use according to the composition may include any of the optional ingredients as explained above for the composition according to the present invention.
[Use]
The present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one phosphate compound for preventing or reducing the color change, preferably the color change over time, and more preferably the color change into yellow or blown over time, of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water.
The amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the above composition can be 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
The explanations regarding the (a) ellagic acid compound(s), the (b) phosphate compound(s), the (c) metal oxide(s) and the (d) water for the composition according to the present invention can apply to the use according to the present invention.
The composition used in the use according to the composition may include any of the optional ingredients as explained above for the composition according to the present invention.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.
However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-7]
[Preparation]
Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-7 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Figure imgf000023_0001
Figure imgf000024_0001
[Evaluation]
(Stability) The stability of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-7 was evaluated by:
(1) measuring the "b" value (initial) of the composition just after the preparation thereof;
(2) measuring the "b" value (2 weeks later) of the composition kept at 45 °C for 2
weeks;
(3) determining the
Figure imgf000025_0002
by the difference between the "b" value (initial) and the "b" value (2 weeks later); and
(4) categorizing the Ab based on the following criteria.
The measurements (1) and (2) were performed with a color meter (Konica Minolta, CM-700d, Portable Spectrophotometer).
Figure imgf000025_0001
The results of the stability evaluation are shown in Table 1.
Examples 1 and 2 show that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 which include a phosphate compound (potassium cetyl phosphate) can prevent or reduce the color change over time of the compositions.
Example 3 shows that the composition according to Example 3 which includes another phosphate compound (cereth-10 phosphate) can prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
Example 4 shows that the composition according to Example 4 which includes another phosphate compound (dipotassium phosphate) can prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition. Comparative Examples 1 and 2 show that the compositions according to Comparative
Examples 1 and 2 which do not include the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
Comparative Examples 1 and 2 also show that the color change over time is caused by titanium oxide in the form of not only a particle but also a coating of another particle such as mica.
Comparative Example 3 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 3 which includes an anionic surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
Comparative Example 4 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 4 which includes another anionic surfactant (sodium cocoyl glycinate) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition. Comparative Example 5 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 5 which includes a cationic surfactant (palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition. Comparative Example 6 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 6 which includes another cationic surfactant (cetrimonium chloride) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
Comparative Example 7 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 7 which includes an amphoteric surfactant (cocamidopropyl betaine) instead of the phosphate compound cannot prevent or reduce the color change over time of the composition.
Examples 1 to 4, as well as Comparative Examples 1-7 demonstrate that a phosphate compound can prevent or reduce the color change, preferably the color change over time, and more preferably the color change into yellow or blown over time, of a composition comprising an ellagic acid compound, metal oxide, and water.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. A composition comprising: (a) at least one ellagic acid compound; (b) at least one phosphate compound; (c) at least one metal oxide; and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. The composition according to Claim 1 , wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound(s) in the composition is from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (b) phosphate compound is selected from
(1) the compounds of formula (XIV):
Figure imgf000027_0001
with R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, chosen from: a group OM with M representing an alkali metal, a group OR4, in which R4 represents a linear, branched, cyclic or aromatic C5-C40 alkyl group, an OH group, and an oxyethylene group (OCH2CH2)n(OCH2CHCH3)mOR with R representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl group, and n and m being integers with n ranging from 1 to 50 and m ranging from 0 to 50,
(2) glycerophospholipids, and
(3) mixtures thereof
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) phosphate compound is selected from the group consisting of trioleyl phosphate, tri-C12-15 Pareth-10 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein- the (b) phosphate compound is selected from the group consisting of monoester phosphate of alkoxylated fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms with from 1 to 50 moles of alkylene oxide selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and dialkyl phosphates of non-alkoxylated alcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) phosphate compound is selected from the group consisting of a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, and a combination of oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) phosphate compound is selected from glycerophospholipids represented by the general formula (XV
Figure imgf000028_0001
in which
R1 and R2 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and possibly substituted with one or more hydroxyl and/or amine functions, and
X represents a substituent of general formula R3R4R5N+-CH(R6)-CH2- in which R3, R4, R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and/or a carboxyl function.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the
(b) phosphate compound(s) in the composition is from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) metal oxide is selected from titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (c) metal oxide is not coated.
11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the (c) metal oxide is present in a coating of a substrate, preferably in the form of a particle.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the amount of the
(c) metal oxide(s) in the composition is from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the
(d) water in the composition is from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. A process for preventing or reducing the color change of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water, comprising the step of adding (b) at least one phosphate compound to the composition.
15. Use of (b) at least one phosphate compound for preventing or reducing the color change of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water.
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