WO2018211069A1

WO2018211069A1 - Cosmetic hair treatment process using a cationic acrylic copolymer and a conditioning agent

Info

Publication number: WO2018211069A1
Application number: PCT/EP2018/063083
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stéphanie COULOMBEL; Guillaume RONCHARD
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2017-05-19
Filing date: 2018-05-18
Publication date: 2018-11-22
Anticipated expiration: 2019-11-19
Also published as: FR3066387B1; FR3066387A1

Abstract

The present patent application relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, comprising the following steps: 1) application to the keratin fibres of a composition (A) comprising one or more cationic acrylic copolymers comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) one or more monomers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group, b) one or more alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers, and c) one or more monomers having the following formula (A'), in which R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atomor a C₁-C₁₀ alkyl radical, and x ranges from 1 to 10, and then 2) the application to the keratin fibres of a composition (B) comprising one or more conditioning agents. The present patent application also relates to a kit that is suitable for performing this process.

Description

Cosmetic hair treatment process using a cationic acrylic copolymer and a conditioning agent

The present invention relates to a hair treatment process comprising the application of two different cosmetic compositions, a composition (A) comprising at least one particular cationic acrylic copolymer, and then a composition (B) comprising at least one conditioning agent.

Hair is often damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and/or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.

Damaged hair is often difficult to disentangle, it looks and feels dry, lacks manageability and is particularly difficult to style and to shape.

To remedy these drawbacks, it is common practice to pursue haircare involving the application of compositions that can condition the hair in particular to give it sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and also improved disentangling and styling properties.

These haircare compositions (or conditioning compositions) may be, for example, conditioning shampoos or compositions to be applied before or after shampooing, which may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or creams of varied thickness, and which contain cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents which are intended mainly to repair or to limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or attacking factors to which hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected.

However, the care compositions described in the prior art afford conditioning properties that are occasionally insufficient and that especially do not last sufficiently long. Specifically, these properties generally do not sufficiently withstand washing and tend to diminish rapidly. The persistence effect of the conditioning properties is generally limited to one or two shampoo washes.

Thus, there is a real need to provide novel methods for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which are especially capable of affording conditioning properties that are not only improved but also persistent on washing, for example persistent after at least two or even five shampoo washes. It has now been discovered that a treatment process involving the successive application to keratin fibres of a first composition (referred to hereinbelow as "composition (A)") containing at least one particular cationic copolymer which comprises units derived from at least three specific monomers, and of a second composition (referred to hereinbelow as "composition (B)") comprising at least one conditioning agent, makes it possible to achieve the above objectives.

In particular, the application to the fibres of composition (A) makes it possible to obtain coating of the fibres serving as an adhesion promoter for the conditioning agents contained in composition (B), which makes it possible to attach the conditioning agents to the hair in a long-lasting manner. The successive use of these two compositions can maintain the benefits of the conditioning composition (B) in a particularly long-lasting manner, without the need to reapply it, even after several shampoo washes.

The effects obtained by applying the conditioning composition (B) are thus longer lasting and fade less rapidly, especially on washing, when compared with the application of composition (B) without prior application of composition (A).

Moreover, composition (B) may be applied again after several days, and the persistence of the conditioning effect is maintained without the need to reapply composition (A) beforehand, even when the keratin fibres have undergone one or more intermediate shampoo washes.

As has been presented above, the process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an excellent level of conditioning of keratin fibres. The hair has a particularly soft feel and is more supple, shinier and easier to disentangle both when dry and when wet. The hair also has more individualized strands and is more manageable and easier and faster to style or to shape.

When shaping of the hairstyle is performed using a heating tool, it is faster and easier, and leaves a longer lasting impression.

These properties are long-lasting, and are persistent on washing, especially several shampoo washes.

A subject of the invention is thus a process for treating keratin fibres, especially the hair, comprising the following steps:

(1) application to the keratin fibres of a composition (A) comprising one or more cationic acrylic copolymers comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) one or more monomers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group,

b) one or more alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers, and c) one or more monomers having the following formula:

R

CH

C=O

C

I ⁴

C

I ⁴

O

R'

(A')

in which R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-Cio alkyl radical, and x ranges from 1 to 10, and then

(2) the application to the keratin fibres of a composition (B) comprising one or more conditioning agents.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the process also comprises the application of heat to the keratin fibres using a heating tool. This application of heat may be performed at any moment after the application of composition (A), especially between the application of composition (A) and that of composition (B), and/or after the applications of compositions (A) and (B).

A subject of the present invention is also a multi-compartment device or kit that is suitable for performing the process of the invention.

Such a device contains at least two separate compartments:

- a first compartment containing a composition (A) comprising one or more cationic acrylic copolymers comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers:

a) one or more monomers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group,

b) one or more alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers, and c) one or more monomers having the following formula: R

CH

C=O

C

I ⁴

C

I ⁴

O

R'

(A')

in which R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-Cio alkyl radical, and x ranges from 1 to 10, and

- a second compartment containing a composition (B) comprising one or more conditioning agents.

Other characteristics, aspects, objects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

According to the present application, the term "keratin fibres" denotes human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair.

Composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one acrylic cationic copolymer, comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers:

b) one or more alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers, and

c) one or more monomers having the formula (Α') as defined above. The alkyl radical of the alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers comprises from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 22 carbon atoms, better still 1 to 10 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic compound or group" means a compound or group bearing a permanent cationic charge or a charge obtained by protonation of a (cationizable) function, such as an amine function, by the protons of the medium.

Preferably, the copolymer according to the invention is water-insoluble. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-insoluble" refers to a compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013>< 10⁵ Pa) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight).

Preferably, the acrylic cationic copolymer present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers:

a) one or more monomers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group, chosen from those having the following formulae:

(II)

in which:

- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;

- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R₄, R5 and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide,

preferably, formulae (I) and (II);

b) one or more C1-C30, preferably Ci-C₂₂, preferentially C1-C10 and better still C₂-C₆ alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers,

and

c) one or more monomers having the following formula:

R

CH

C=O

C

I ⁴

C

I ⁴

O

in which R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Cio and preferably d-C₄ alkyl radical; preferably, R is a methyl radical; better still, R is a methyl radical and R is an ethyl radical;

x ranges from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3, and better still x is 1.

Even more particularly, composition (A) comprises at least one copolymer comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers:

a) one or more monomers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters of formula (I) or (II) as described previously, preferably of formula (II);

b) one or more C1-C22, preferably C1-C10 and better still C2-C6 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers;

c) one or more monomers of formula (Α') as described previously.

Most particularly, composition (A) comprises one or more cationic acrylic copolymers, which are preferably water-insoluble, bearing the following units:

a) methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium salt,

b) butyl methacrylate, and

c) ethoxy ethyl methacrylate.

Such copolymers are described, for example, in JP5745266. Preferably, the polymer contains the preceding three monomers in the following weight proportions relative to the total weight of monomer units, in the constituted copolymer, without taking into account the salts thereof:

a) in a proportion of from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1% to 5%;

b) in a proportion of from 20% to 98%, preferably from 40% to 97%; and c) in a proportion of from 1.5% to 95%, preferably from 2% to 55%. Preferably, the copolymer is not amphoteric, i.e. it does not comprise any units bearing an anionic charge.

Preferably, the units of the copolymer are all methacrylate derivatives.

Even more particularly, the copolymer corresponds to the INCI name Polyquaternium-99. Such a polymer is sold, for example, by the company Goo- Chemical under the name Plascize L-514.

It is the butyl methacrylate/ethoxy ethyl methacrylate/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, at 30% in ethanol:

3 CI

Composition (A) according to the invention comprises the cationic acrylic copolymer(s) in a content which may range from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A), preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

Composition (A) comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium which may especially comprise water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the organic solvents may be chosen from linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols and polyols, in particular diols, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-l,5- pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; glycols or glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol mo no methyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol, butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol mo no methyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular of C1-C4, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

Alcohols are preferred, and more particularly monoalcohols, in particular ethanol.

When they are present, the organic solvents described above usually represent from 1% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3%) to 55% by weight and better still from 8% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

Composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise one or more silicones.

More particularly, the silicones may be chosen from volatile and nonvolatile silicones.

The volatile and non- volatile silicones that may be used in composition (A) correspond to the silicones such as those described below.

Composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one conditioning agent.

The term "conditioning agent" means any compound that is capable of producing a conditioning effect on keratin fibres when the cosmetic composition comprising same is applied to the fibres.

The conditioning effect may consist of any improvement of a cosmetic nature in the condition and/or appearance of keratin fibres, for instance, in a non- limiting manner, a visual and/or tactile sensory improvement, reinforcement of the keratin fibres, improvement of their ease of disentangling, styling or shaping, provision of sheen or provision of resistance to frizziness.

The conditioning agents may advantageously be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

i) cationic surfactants;

ii) cationic polymers other than the cationic acrylic copolymers described above and/or amphoteric polymers;

iii) organosilicon compounds, and especially silicones and silanes;

iv) non-silicone liquid fatty substances, and especially: hydroxylated or non- hydroxylated liquid fatty acids; liquid fatty alcohols; mineral, plant or animal oils; liquid fatty esters; liquid hydrocarbons;

v) non-silicone solid fatty substances, and especially: solid fatty alcohols; solid fatty esters; ceramides; animal, plant or mineral waxes other than ceramides; vi) moisturizing agents or humectants, especially glycols and polyols which are in particular liquid, nonionic saccharides, including hydrolysed or non- hydrolysed, modified or unmodified oligosaccharides; and

vii) amino acids,

i) cationic surfactants:

The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used as conditioning agents in composition (B) of the process of the invention especially comprise optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:

- those corresponding to the eneral formula (A4) below:

(A4)

in which formula (A4):

^■ Rs to Ri i , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups Rs to Ri i comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and

^■ X^" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C4)alkyl- and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

The aliphatic groups of Rs to Rn may also comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups of Rs to Rn are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-

C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X^" is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-

C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A4), preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (A5) below:

in which formula (A5):

^■ Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

^■ Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

^■ Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;

^■ Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group;

^■ X^" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C4)alkyl and (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates.

Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo; - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (A6) below:

R, 17 R ' ,

^R16— — (CH,)₃— N— R '21 2X ~

R, R,

(A6)

in which formula (A6):

■ Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;

^■ Ri7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N⁺(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), X^";

■ Ri6a, Rna, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R₂i, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

^■ X^", which may be identical or different, represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4) sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, made available by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, made available by the company

Finetex (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (A7) below:

O X^(C_SH_2S)-R₂₅

^R22 (_A7) in which formula (A7):

^■ R22 is chosen from Ci-C₆ alkyl groups and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

^■ R23 is chosen from: O

- the group ²⁶ ,

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27,

- a hydrogen atom,

■ R25 is chosen from:

O

- the group ^R28 ^ ,

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R29,

- a hydrogen atom,

■ R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

^■ r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,

^■ rl and tl , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, with r2+r 1 =2r and 11 +t2=2t,

^■ y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

^■ x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

^■ X^" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion,

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then

R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based radical R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anionic counterion X^" is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate.

However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.

The anionic counterion X^" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly in composition (B) of the ammonium salts of formula (A7) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R23 is chosen from:

O

• the group ²⁶

• methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

· a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from:

O

• the group ^R28 ^

• a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (A7), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,

triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

Composition (B) may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactants may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3%) by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

ii) Cationic and amphoteric polymers

Composition (B) according to the invention may comprise as conditioning agent one or more polymers chosen from amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers other than the cationic acrylic copolymers described above, and also mixtures thereof.

The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not comprising any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x 10⁶ approximately and preferably between 10³ and 3x 10⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:

in which:

- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- Rl and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Among these homopolymers or copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the copolymers sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

- vinylpyrrolidone/quaternized dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,

- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Cl-C4)alkyltri(Cl- C4)alkyl ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefmically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

(2) cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic galactomannan gums and celluloses. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydro xyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar CI 62 by the company Rhodia. (3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.

(4) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.

(5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino hydroxy alky ldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from digly colic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/ epoxypropyl/ diethylenetriamine copolymer. (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II) below:

(CH₂)k

-(CH₂)t- CR₁₂ C(R₁₂)-CH₂-

(CH₂)k

/ \

-(CH₂)t- CR₁₂ C(R₁₂)-CH₂-

H₂C CH,

\ /

(II) N

^R10

in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + 1 being equal to 1 ;

- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- RIO and Rl l, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively RIO and Rl l may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; RIO and Rl 1, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- Y^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homo logs thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide salts (for example chloride), sold in particular under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR. (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

I ¹³ I 15

N+ - A₁ - N+- B₁ (H I )

R₁₄ ^X- Ri e ^X- in which:

- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-0-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- Al and Bl represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B 1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC- (CH2)n- in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-0)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2- CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical - CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X^" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.

Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

- (CH₂)_p — (IV)

X^"

in which Rl, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is the one for which Rl , R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = CI, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

^18 R₂₀

— N+ - (CH₂)_r - NH - CO - (CH₂)_q - CO - NH (CH₂)_S - N+ - A— R19 (V) _x_ R₂₁ in which:

- R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

- X- denotes an anion such as a halide, - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-0-CH2-

CH2-.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(11) polyamines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

— CH— CH—

NH₂ (A)

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

— CH— CH—

² I (B)

NH— C-H

I I

O

In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B).

These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.

The cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.

The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above.

Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homologs thereof of low weight-average molecular weights, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Cl- C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers as conditioning agent.

The term "amphoteric polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and also anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

The amphoteric polymers may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:

(i) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer,

(ii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and

(iii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer. Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer (i) are units of structure (la) below:

in which Ri denotes H or CH₃ and R₂ is chosen from amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino and -NH-CH₂OH radicals.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (la).

The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R₂ is an amino radical (NH₂) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.

Preferably, the units resulting from a (meth)acrylamido-alkyl- trialkylammonium-type monomer (ii) are units of structure (Ila) below:

in which:

- R₃ denotes H or CH₃,

- R₄ denotes a group (CH₂)k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;

- R₅, Re and R₇, which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ila).

Among these units derived from a

(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer of formula (Ila), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R₃ denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R₅, Re and R₇ denote a methyl radical, and Y^" denotes a chloride anion. Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer units of formula (Ilia):

in which Rs denotes H or CH3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or an -NH- C(CH₃)2-CH2-S0₃H radical.

The preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.

Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.

The (meth)acrylic acid-type acidic monomer(s) may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer.

The content of units derived from a monomer of

(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.

The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:

- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),

- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and

- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).

Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid- type monomer as described above.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers are constituted solely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).

Mention may be made, as examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, of acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.

As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, and optionally on acrylamide or a derivative thereof, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by the company Nalco.

Preferably, when composition (B) according to the invention comprises one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, it comprises them in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, especially from 0.05%> to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

iii) Organosilicon compounds

Composition (B) according to the invention may comprise, as conditioning agent, one or more organosilicon compounds, chosen especially from silicones and silanes, and also mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organosilicon compound" means any organic compound comprising in its structure at least one silicon atom.

The silicones that may be used according to the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition; they may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums; they may be volatile or non-volatile.

In particular, the silicones may be organopolysiloxanes, which are especially insoluble in the composition of the invention. Organopolysiloxanes are especially described in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

The volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C. Mention may be made of:

i) cyclic volatile silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as:

- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone

7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;

- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

D-D'- -D-D'-

CH, CH, with D -Si-O— with D" : -Si-O- CHL C₀ 7

Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company

Union Carbide;

- mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of l,l'-oxy(2,2,2',2',3,3'- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane;

ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x l0^"6 m²/s at 25°C, such as:

- decamethyltetrasiloxane; other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made of, alone or as a mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes which are silicones as defined above, comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached by means of a hydrocarbon-based group (also called organomodified silicones).

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising

C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols and especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet^® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by the company Union Carbide; or (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyols and especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and

GP 71 from Genesee;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

- hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;

- acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or else of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2- hy droxy alky lthio sulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil^® S201 and Abil^® S255;

- amino groups (amino silicones).

The term "amino silicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 μΐ of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from:

a) the poly silo xanes corresponding to formula (VI):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g/mol approximately; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VII):

R^,aG3-a-Si(OSiG₂)n-(OSiGbR^,2-b)_m-0-SiG3-a-R^*a (VII) in which:

- G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH or Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy, group,

- a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,

- b denotes 0 or 1 , in particular 1 ,

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -C_qH_2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: -NR"-Q-N(R")₂, - N(R")₂, -N⁺(R")3 A^", N⁺H(R")₂ A^", N⁺H₂(R") A^", -NR"-Q-N⁺(R")H₂ A^", -NR"-Q- N⁺(R")2H A^" and NR"-Q-N⁺(R")3 A^",

in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a Ci-C₂o alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C_rH_2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A^" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide anion.

Preferably, the amino silicones that may be used according to the invention are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (VII). Even more preferably, the amino silicones of formula (VII) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formulae (VIII), (IX), (X), (XI) and/or (XII) below.

According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VII) are chosen from the silicones known as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (VIII):

(CH₃)₃ S OSi(CH₃ 3)/3

m

(VIII) in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10.

According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (IX) below:

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- Ri, R₂ and R₃, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R₃ denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1 and preferably from 0.25 : 1 to 0.35 : 1 and more particularly equals 0.3: 1.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g/mol.

According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (X) below:

in which:

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- Ri and R₂, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R₂ denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1 :0.8 to 1 : 1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g/mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100 000 g/mol and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g/mol.

The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IX) or (X) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formula (IX) or (X).

A product containing amino silicones of structure (IX) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones of structure (X) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (X) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil- in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The numerical mean size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (X), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (X) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker.

According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XI) below:

CH₃ †H₃ CH_Q CH₃

Si— o- — Si - O - Si— — Si— OH

I

A

CH₃ CH₃ I CH_Q

NH

(CH₂)₂ NH. m

(XI) in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g/mol.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is sold, for example, under the name Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion by the company Dow Corning.

According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XII) below:

in which:

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g/mol.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is sold, for example, under the name DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning. c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XIII):

R₆— CH₂— CHOH— CH₂— N (R₅)₃ Q 5

(R₅)₃— Si— O- -Si— O Si- -Si-(R₅5)/:3

R. R.

(XIII) in which: - R₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl, radical;

- Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a d-d 8 alkylene radical or a divalent d-d 8, for example d-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Q^" is an anion such as a halide, especially chloride, ion or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;

- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

- s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. d) the silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups of formula (XIV):

R₈ - Rc

(XIV)

in which:

- R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a d-d 8 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a d-d 8 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;

- X^" is an anion such as a halide, especially chloride, ion or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100; e) the amino silicones of formula (XV):

H₂N - (C_mH₂J - NH - (C_nH_2n) - Si

(XV)

in which:

- Ri, R₂, R3 and R₄, which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R5 denotes a Ci-C₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g. f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of the type (AB)_n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block comprising at least one amine group. Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units of the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe₂0)_xSiMe₂-R-N(R")-R-0(C₂H₄0)a(C3H₆0)b-R-N(H)-R-] or alternatively

[-(SiMe₂0)_xSiMe₂-R-N(R")-R-0(C₂H₄0)a(C3H₆0)b-] in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to

5000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical CH₂CH2CH₂OCH2CH(OH)CH2-; preferentially, R denotes a radical CH₂CH2CH₂OCH2CH(OH)CH2-;

- R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical - CH₂CH2CH₂OCH2CH(OH)CH2-; preferentially, R' denotes -CH(CH₃)-CH₂-.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent from 50 mol% to 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g/mol.

Mention may be made especially of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

g) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicone(s) of formulae (VIII), (IX), (X), (XI) and (XII) above, and better still from the amino silicones of formula (IX), (X) or (XI).

The silanes are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof:

RlSi(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I)

in which

- Rl is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 and especially C2-C20 hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with an amine group NH₂ or NHR (R = C1-C20 and especially C1-C6 alkyl, C3-C40 cycloalkyl or C6- C30 aromatic); or with a hydroxyl group, a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl), which is substituted or unsubstituted; Rl possibly being interrupted with a heteroatom (O, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO);

- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,

- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and

- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,

- with z + x + y = 3.

The term "oligomer" means the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.

Preferably, Rl is a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated C1-C22, especially C2-C20 or even C6-C20 hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with an amine group NH₂ or NHR (R = C1-C20, especially C1-C6, alkyl).

Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.

Preferably, z ranges from 1 to 3. Preferentially, z=3, and therefore x=y=0.

Preferably, y = 0.

In one variant, Rl represents an alkyl group, and even more preferentially a linear alkyl group, comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms or a C1-C6 and preferably C2-C4 aminoalkyl group. More particularly, Rl represents an octyl group. Preferentially, in this variant, the composition comprises octyltriethoxysilane (OTES).

In another variant, Rl is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl- C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with an amine group NH2 or NHR (R = C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl, C3-C40 cycloalkyl or C6-C30 aromatic). In this variant, Rl preferably represents a C1-C6, preferably C2-C4, aminoalkyl group.

Preferentially, in this variant, the composition comprises γ- aminopropy ltriethoxy silane ( APTE S) .

Preferably, the composition may comprise, as silane, at least one compound chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexyldecyltriethoxysilane and γ-aminopropyltriethoxysilane; more particularly chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES) and γ-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).

According to another preferred embodiment, the silanes may also be chosen from the compounds of formula (III) below, and/or hydrolysis products thereof and/or oligomers thereof:

in which:

R₄ and R₅ each represent, independently of each other, a Ci-₆, better still Ci_₄, alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, iso butyl and tert-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl or n-propyl,

n ranges from 1 to 3,

m ranges from 1 to 3,

on condition that m+n=4.

Preferably, R₅ represents a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, n=3 and m=l .

Preferably, the oligomers of the compounds of formula (III) are water- soluble.

As examples of alkylalkoxysilanes that are particularly preferred, mention may be made especially of methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), methyltripropoxysilane, oligomers thereof and hydrolysis products thereof.

The silanes used in the composition of the invention, especially those comprising a basic function, may be partially or totally neutralized in order to improve their water solubility. In particular, the neutralizer may be chosen from organic or mineral acids, such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid or hydrochloric acid.

Preferably, the optionally neutralized silanes according to the invention are water-soluble and especially soluble at a concentration of 2%, better still at a concentration of 5% and even better still at a concentration of 10% by weight in water at a temperature of 25°C ± 5°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm). The term "soluble" indicates the formation of a single macroscopic phase.

Preferably, when composition (B) according to the invention comprises one or more organosilicon compounds, it comprises them in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 99% by weight.

In one variant of the invention, composition (B) comprises one or more organosilicon compounds in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05%> to 10%> by weight and better still from 0.1%> to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

In another variant of the invention, composition (B) comprises one or more organosilicon compounds in an amount ranging from 31% to 99% by weight, preferably from 50%> to 98%> by weight and better still from 70%> to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

Non-silicone fatty substances

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013^χ 10⁵ Pa) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less than 1% and even more preferentially of less than 0.1% by weight). The non-silicone fatty substances (i.e. the fatty substances not comprising any silicon atoms in their structure) have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the non-silicone fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The non-silicone fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified carboxylic acid groups.

In addition, the non-silicone fatty substances of the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated ethers.

The term "liquid fatty substance" or "oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013x 10^s Pa).

The term "solid fatty substance" means a "fatty substance" that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013^χ 10⁵ Pa). iv) Non-silicone liquid fatty substances

Composition (B) according to the invention may comprise, as conditioning agent, one or more non-silicone liquid fatty substances. These agents may be chosen especially from liquid fatty alcohols; mineral, plant or animal oils; liquid fatty esters; liquid hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof. The liquid fatty alcohols may be linear or branched; they preferably comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms; they may be saturated or unsaturated.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the saturated liquid fatty alcohols are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, and also palmityl, myristyl, stearyl and lauryl alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Among the mineral, plant or animal oils that may be used, mention may be made especially, as oils of plant origin, of sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheatgerm oil, sesame oil, groundnut oil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, beauty-leaf oil or evening primrose oil; as oil of animal origin, perhydrosqualene; as oils of mineral origin, liquid paraffin and liquid petroleum jelly; and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty esters may be esters of monoalcohols or of polyols with monoacids or polyacids, at least one of the alcohols and/or acids comprising at least one chain of more than 7 carbon atoms. Preferably, the liquid fatty ester according to the invention is chosen from esters of a fatty acid and of a monoalcohol. Preferably, at least one of the alcohols and/or acids is branched. Mention may be made of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl or isostearyl isononanoate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate and 2-octyldodecyl myristate, purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.

The term "liquid hydrocarbon" means a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at 25°C and 1 atm, which is especially of mineral or plant origin, preferably of plant origin.

As liquid hydrocarbon that may be used in composition (B) according to the invention, mention may be made of: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 alkanes; mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons especially of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non- volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.

Preferably, when composition (B) according to the invention comprises one or more non-silicone liquid fatty substances, it comprises them in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05%> to 20%> by weight and better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B). v) Non-silicone solid fatty substances

Composition (B) according to the invention may comprise, as conditioning agent, one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances. These substances may be chosen especially from solid fatty alcohols; solid fatty esters, ceramides; animal, plant or mineral waxes other than ceramides; and mixtures thereof.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol).

The solid fatty esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 monocarboxylic acids and from C9-C26 alcohols. Mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. Mention may be made especially of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate and dioctyl maleate. Preferentially, it is preferred to use C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, especially myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, and C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate.

The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known per se; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification; they are molecules which may correspond to the formula below:

R₃CHOH— CH— CH₂OR₂

NH

C =0 R^l

in which:

- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

- P 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

- P 3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides,

P 3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alp ha- hydroxy acid.

The ceramides more particularly preferred are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.

Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group. Use may also be made of the compounds for which Rl denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated CI 2- C22 hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of

2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane- 1 ,3- diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1,3, 4 triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-l,3-diol, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N- cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained in the oils of the mixture.

As waxes, other than the ceramides above, that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork-fibre wax, sugarcane wax, olive-tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, absolute waxes of flowers; mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, when composition (B) according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances, it comprises them in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and better still from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B). vi) Moisturizers or humectants:

Composition (B) according to the invention may comprise as conditioning agent one or more moisturizers or humectants, which may be chosen especially from glycols and polyols, which are in particular liquid, nonionic saccharides including oligosaccharides, which may be hydro lysed or non-hydrolysed, and modified or unmodified.

Among the polyols and glycols, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and 1 atm, mention may be made of propylene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.

Among the nonionic saccharides, mention may be made of monosaccharides or disaccharides such as glucose, xylose and sucrose.

The oligosaccharides that may be used in the present invention are in particular trehalose, maltulose or lactose.

Use may also be made of alcohol sugars such as sorbitol.

Preferably, the moisturizers or humectants are chosen from propylene glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols that are especially liquid, sorbitol, glucose, xylose and sucrose, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when composition (B) according to the invention comprises one or more moisturizers or humectants, it comprises them in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B). vii) Amino acids

Composition (B) according to the invention may comprise as conditioning agent one or more amino acids, which may be chosen from cysteine, lysine, alanine, N-phenylalanine, arginine, glycine, leucine, taurine, threonine and proline, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when composition (B) comprises one or more amino acids, it comprises them in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

In general, composition (B) according to the invention may comprise the conditioning agent(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight and preferably from 1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

Preferably, the conditioning agent(s) are chosen from:

i) cationic surfactants;

ii) cationic polymers other than those used in composition (A) according to the invention;

iii) organosilicon compounds, and especially silicones and silanes;

iv) non-silicone liquid fatty substances, and especially hydroxylated or non- hydroxylated liquid fatty acids; liquid fatty alcohols; mineral, plant or animal oils; liquid fatty esters; liquid hydrocarbons;

v) non-silicone solid fatty substances, and especially solid fatty alcohols; solid fatty esters; ceramides; animal, plant or mineral waxes other than ceramides; and mixtures of these compounds.

Even more preferentially, the conditioning agent(s) are chosen from cationic surfactants, silicones, mineral, plant or animal oils, liquid fatty alcohols, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters and solid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.

Composition (B) comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium which may especially comprise water, organic solvents such as those described above, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, compositions (A) and (B) that are useful in the process according to the invention are non-colouring.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-colouring composition" means a composition which does not comprise any direct dye or oxidation dye precursor (oxidation base and coupler) or any other compound which gives colour to the keratin fibres, usually used for colouring human keratin fibres, or alternatively, if it does comprise any, the total amount thereof does not exceed 0.005%) by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Specifically, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, i.e. no colouring effect would be observed on the keratin fibres.

It is recalled that oxidation dye precursors, oxidation bases and couplers are colourless or sparingly coloured compounds, which, via a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a coloured species. With regard to direct dyes, these compounds are coloured and have a certain affinity for keratin fibres.

Compositions (A) and (B) that are useful in the process according to the invention may also comprise, independently of each other, one or more additional ingredients such as one or more mineral or organic thickeners, which are especially polymeric, and one or more surfactants, other than the conditioning agents as described previously.

As other additional ingredient that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of cationic and amphoteric polymers other than those defined above, anionic or nonionic polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, oxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the process according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

The above additional compounds may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition containing them.

Compositions (A) and (B) may be, independently of each other, in any form that is compatible with application to keratin fibres, for instance in the form of a cream of varied thickness or a viscous cream, a foam, a paste, a spray (pump and aerosol) or a lotion.

According to the treatment process of the invention, composition (A) is applied before composition (B).

Composition (A) may be applied to wet or dry, preferably wet, keratin fibres.

Preferably, composition (A) is left to stand on the fibres for a leave-on time that may range from 30 seconds to 1 hour and preferably from 1 to 30 minutes.

Composition (B) is then applied to the keratin fibres. Preferably, the time between the application of composition (A) and the application of composition (B) is less than 2 hours, preferentially less than 1 hour, better still less than or equal to 30 minutes.

Preferably, composition (B) is left to stand on the fibres for a leave-on time that may range from 30 seconds to 1 hour and preferably from 1 to 30 minutes.

On conclusion of the treatment, the fibres may optionally be rinsed with water before being dried or left to dry.

Each of the two compositions may be applied to the fibres, independently of each other, with a bath ratio of between 0.05 and 10, and more particularly between 0.05 and 5.

Heating step

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the process also comprises the application of heat to the keratin fibres using a heating tool.

This application of heat is advantageously performed: after applying composition (A) and before applying composition (B) and/or after applying composition (B), which corresponds to the following preferred protocols:

(PI) application of composition (A) followed by heating and then application of composition (B);

(P2) application of composition (A) and then application of composition (B) followed by heating; or

(P3) application of composition (A) followed by heating and then application of composition (B) followed by heating.

Protocols (PI) and (P3) are particularly preferred. The step of placing the keratin fibres in contact with a heating means may be performed using any heating device.

One or more heating tools may be applied individually or successively to the hair.

The application of heat may be performed at a temperature ranging from 40 to 250°C, preferentially from 50°C to 250°C and more preferentially from 100°C to 210°C.

The application of heat may be performed for a time of between 2 seconds and 1 hour and preferentially between 2 seconds and 3 minutes. The application of the heating means may take place by successive touches or by sliding the appliance along the fibres.

The heating tool may especially be a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, a hood, a hairdryer, an infrared heating system or heating curlers.

Shampoo may optionally be applied to the keratin fibres on conclusion of the treatment.

A subject of the present invention is also a multi-compartment device or kit, comprising at least two separate compartments:

- a first compartment containing a composition (A) as described above, and

- a second compartment containing a composition (B) as described above.

The device according to the invention may also optionally comprise a third compartment containing a detergent composition such as a shampoo composition. The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

1. Preparation of the compositions

Compositions (A) and (Bl) to (B3) according to the invention were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below as weight percentages of active material.

Composition (A)

Polyquaternium-99 (containing 30% active 5 material in ethanol) (1)

Water/ethanol mixture (50/50 by weight) qs 100

(1) Plascize L-514 (Goo Chemical)

Composition (Bl)

Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.8

Stearyl alcohol 1.5

Polydimethylsiloxane bearing aminoethyl

aminopropyl groups, bearing a methoxy and/or 0.57 hydroxyl function and alpha-omega silanols, as a

cationic aqueous emulsion containing 60% active

material - Xiameter MEM-8299 Emulsion (Dow

Corning)

Polydimethylsiloxane as a nonionic aqueous

emulsion containing 50% active material - Xiameter 2.5 MEM- 1664 Emulsion (Dow Corning)

Oxyethylenated (20 OE) and oxypropylenated (5 0.2 OP) cetyl alcohol

Xylose 0.01

Preserving agent qs

Fragrance qs

Water qs 100 Composition (B2)

Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane containing alpha- omega dihydroxyl and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 65 groups - Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid (Dow Corning)

Ethanol 5

N-Oleyldihydrosphingosine 0.012

Evening-primrose oil 0.1

Fragrance qs

Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane qs 100

Composition (B3)

Hydroxypropyl guar trimethylammonium chloride 0.05

Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.8

Glycerol 0.5

Magnesium gluconate 0.05

Citric acid 0.01

Cetylstearyl alcohol 5

Mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate 1

Coconut kernel oil 0.05

Polydimethylsiloxane bearing aminoethyl

aminopropyl groups, bearing a methoxy and/or 1.4 hydroxyl function and alpha-omega silanols, as a

cationic aqueous emulsion containing 60% active

material - Xiameter MEM-8299 Emulsion (Dow

Corning)

Preserving agents qs

Fragrance qs

Water qs 100 2. Application protocols

The compositions described above were applied to 2.7 g locks of pre-moistened sparingly sensitized hair, adhering to the following protocols:

Protocol P according to the invention:

- Application of composition (A) in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per lock;

- Blow-drying (with a hairdryer, brushing 10 times) at 60°C;

- Application of composition (Bl), (B2) or (B3);

- Blow-drying (with a hairdryer, brushing 10 times) at 60°C.

Compositions (Bl) and (B3) were applied at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per lock; composition (B2) was applied at a rate of 0.2 g of composition per lock.

Comparative protocol CP1 :

- Blow-drying (with a hairdryer, brushing 10 times) at 60°C.

Comparative protocol CP2:

- Application of composition (Bl), (B2) or (B3), in an identical amount relative to protocol P;

- Blow-drying (with a hairdryer, brushing 10 times) at 60°C.

3. Evaluation and results:

The cosmetic properties of the treated locks of hair, their shaping and their surface condition were evaluated (by observation of the surface of the fibres using a scanning electron microscope):

- Before treatment,

- Immediately after treatment,

- After two or five successive washes.

Each wash cycle was performed in the following manner:

- Wetting of the locks; - Shampooing of the locks with a standard shampoo;

- Rinsing of the locks with water; and then

- Drying of the locks with a hairdryer. 3.1 Surface condition

Observations with a scanning electron microscope (SEM) make it possible to determine the surface condition of the keratin fibres.

Before treatment, the fibres have scales on their surface.

Application of the conditioning compositions (Bl) and (B2) according to comparative protocol CP2 reveals a more or less uniform deposit of conditioning agents on the fibres, which is removed in two shampoo washes.

Application of composition (A) and then of the conditioning compositions (Bl) and (B2) according to protocol P of the invention reveals a thick, uniform deposit of conditioning agents on the fibres, which is very persistent after two shampoo washes. After five shampoo washes, a less thick but still visible deposit remains.

3.2 Cosmetic aspects

The locks treated according to protocol P according to the invention have a very good level of conditioning. The locks are easy to disentangle, they are soft, have a smooth feel and are quick and easy to style and to shape, with good volume control even after 24 hours spent in a relative humidity of 80%.

These properties are superior to those obtained with the comparative protocols CP1 and CP2.

In addition, these properties persist after five shampoo washes.

With comparative protocol CP1, the locks are dry and difficult to disentangle and to style immediately after treatment and after two shampoo washes.

With comparative protocol CP2, the locks have a good level of conditioning immediately after treatment, but these properties disappear after two shampoo washes. The volume control after 24 hours spent in a relative humidity of 80% is low. The results above show that the process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an excellent level of conditioning on keratin fibres, which is persistent after shampoo washing several times.

Claims

1. Process for treating keratin fibres, especially the hair, comprising the following steps:

(1) application to the keratin fibres of a composition (A) comprising one or more cationic acrylic copolymers comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers:

R

CH

C=O

C

I ⁴

C

I ⁴

O

R' (A)

2. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the acrylic cationic copolymer present in composition (A) comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers:

in which:

- R₃, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH₃ group;

- R₄, R-5 and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;

b) one or more Ci-C₃o, preferably Ci-C₂₂, preferentially Ci-Cio and better still C₂-C₆ alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers; and c) one or more monomers of formula (Α') in which R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Cio and preferably C1-C4 alkyl radical; preferably, R is a methyl radical; better still, R is a methyl radical and R is an ethyl radical; x ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3, and better still x is 1.

3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said acrylic cationic copolymer comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers:

a) methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium salt,

b) butyl methacrylate, and

c) ethoxy ethyl methacrylate.

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (A) comprises the cationic acrylic copolymer(s) in a content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the conditioning agent(s) present in composition (B) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

i) cationic surfactants;

ii) cationic polymers other than the cationic acrylic copolymers defined in

Claim 1 and/or amphoteric polymers;

iii) organosilicon compounds, and especially silicones and silanes;

vii) amino acids.

6. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the conditioning agent(s) are chosen from:

i) cationic surfactants; ii) cationic polymers other than the cationic acrylic copolymers defined in

Claim 1;

iii) organosilicon compounds, and especially silicones and silanes;

v) non-silicone solid fatty substances, and especially: solid fatty alcohols; solid fatty esters; ceramides; animal, plant or mineral waxes other than ceramides; and mixtures of these compounds;

and preferably from cationic surfactants, silicones, mineral, plant or animal oils, liquid fatty alcohols, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters and solid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (B) comprises the conditioning agent(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight and preferably from 1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises the application of heat to the keratin fibres using a heating tool, at a temperature ranging from 40°C to 250°C, preferentially from 50°C to 250°C and more preferentially from 100°C to 210°C.

9. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the application of heat is performed after the application of composition (A) and before the application of composition (B) and/or after the application of composition (B).

10. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises one of the following protocols:

(PI) application of composition (A) followed by heating and then application of composition (B); or

(P3) application of composition (A) followed by heating and then application of composition (B) followed by heating;

and preferably protocol (PI) or protocol (P3).

1 1. Process according to any one of Claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the heating tool is chosen from a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, a hood, a hairdryer, an infrared heating system or heating curlers.

12. Kit containing at least two separate compartments:

b) one or more alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers, and

c) one or more monomers having the following formula:

R

CH

C=O

C

I ⁴

C

I ⁴

O

R'

(A')

13. Kit according to Claim 12, characterized in that composition (A) is as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 4, and composition (B) is as defined in any one of Claims 5 to 7.