[go: up one dir, main page]

WO2018115451A1 - Composition cosmétique pour coloration directe comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse qui sont visuellement distinctes l'une de l'autre - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour coloration directe comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse qui sont visuellement distinctes l'une de l'autre Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2018115451A1
WO2018115451A1 PCT/EP2017/084406 EP2017084406W WO2018115451A1 WO 2018115451 A1 WO2018115451 A1 WO 2018115451A1 EP 2017084406 W EP2017084406 W EP 2017084406W WO 2018115451 A1 WO2018115451 A1 WO 2018115451A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
group
alkyl
acid
chosen
hydrogen atom
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2017/084406
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Julia PUEH
Gérard Gabin
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2018115451A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018115451A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising an aqueous phase comprising a thickener, a direct dye, an organic solvent and water, and a fatty phase comprising a thickener and an oil, the two phases being visually distinct from each other.
  • the invention also relates to a process for preparing this composition.
  • the invention relates to a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying the above composition to the keratin fibres.
  • the first type of dyeing is "permanent" or oxidation dyeing, which uses dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally referred to as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
  • the second type of dyeing is "semi-permanent" dyeing or direct dyeing, which consists in applying, to the keratin fibres, direct dyes, which are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for said fibres, in leaving them on for a time, and then in rinsing them off.
  • the direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes, and natural dyes.
  • These dyes may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.
  • Direct dyeing compositions and especially those comprising anionic direct dyes are often products intended for professionals since they must be used according to a quite specific protocol, in order to minimize the staining of the scalp. Specifically, these products have excellent performance qualities in terms of persistence of the colouring on the fibre, but often have the drawback of also pigmenting the scalp.
  • One subject of the invention is thus a cosmetic composition for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising:
  • an aqueous phase (A) comprising:
  • a fatty phase (B) comprising: - one or more oils
  • the two phases (A) and (B) are visually distinct from each other; and - the oil(s) represent(s) a total content ranging from 8% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase forms a protective layer at the surface of the scalp which isolates it from the aqueous phase which comprises the direct dye(s).
  • the preparation process according to the invention uses one or more static mixers.
  • a subject of the invention is a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibres.
  • composition according to the present invention has two phases that are visually distinct from each other or more than two visually distinct phases, and preferably two visually distinct phases.
  • At least one of the two phases occupies zones forming volutes or mottles, preferably of more than 1 cm in length.
  • one of the two phases is not in the form of globules. More preferably, neither of the two phases is in the form of globules.
  • the two phases (A) and (B) are visually distinct in a stable manner, namely the zones occupied by the two phases do not move in response to simple inverting of the container which contains them, when no other stress is applied to the composition.
  • the two phases especially do not constitute two-phase liquids, in which two distinct phases occupy zones one above the other which mix together when the container is inverted.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase (A) which comprises at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more direct dyes.
  • direct dye means natural and/or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. They are dyes that will superficially diffuse on the fibre and dye the fibres by themselves.
  • the direct dye(s) that may be used according to the invention are preferentially chosen from natural or synthetic, cationic, anionic or nonionic direct dyes.
  • natural dyes or “dyes of natural origin” means dyes derived from natural materials (plant, mineral or animal origin), for instance extracts, ground material and decoctions, which have a greater or smaller concentration of dyes.
  • the natural dyes may be chosen especially from spinulosin, orceins, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols (also referred to as ODPs in the rest of the description) and all extracts rich in ODPs, curcumin, indole derivatives such as isatin or indole-2,3- dione, indigoids including indigo, phthalocyanines and porphyrins in particular complexed to a metal, glycosyl or non-glycosyl iridoids, chromene dyes, anthraquinone and naphthoquinone dyes such as lawsone or henna, juglone, spinulosin, chromene or chroman dyes, such as neoflavanols and neoflavanones, flavanols; and anthocyanidols.
  • Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and especially plant extracts or poultices
  • the direct dye(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from anionic dyes, commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes on account of their affinity for alkaline substances.
  • the anionic direct dyes according to the invention may be natural or synthetic.
  • anionic direct dye means any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one C0 2 R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
  • the anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
  • anionic (or acid) direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of the dyes of formulae (I), (II), (III), (IV), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX), (X), (XI) and (XII) below:
  • X, X' and X" which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
  • R"-S(0) 2 - with R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group; - R"'-S(0) 2 -X'- with R' " representing an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group, X' as defined previously;
  • Ar-N N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + or phenylamino groups;
  • dyes of formula (II) mention may be made especially of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134 and Acid yellow 38;
  • Ri i , Ri2 and Rn which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + with M + as defined previously;
  • - Ri4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0 " , M + with M + as defined previously;
  • - Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom
  • Ri6 represents an oxo group, in which case R' i 6 is absent, or alternatively Ri5 with Ri6 together form a double bond;
  • Ri7 and Ris which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • Ar represents an optionally substituted aryl group, preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
  • - Ri9 and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D', which is optionally substituted;
  • R' i6, R' i9 and R'20 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy 1 group;
  • R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group
  • - Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group
  • - represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
  • formulae (III) and (IV) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 ⁇ )-, M + or one carboxylate radical C(0)0 " -, M + on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
  • dyes of formula (III) mention may be made especially of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27 and Acid Yellow 76.
  • R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • - Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R2 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • - aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, more particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0 ⁇ )-, M + with M + as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group; - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl;
  • - Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR' 2 8R'29 with R' 2 8 and R' 2 9, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R 2 8 and R 2 9 as defined previously;
  • dyes of formula (V) mention may be made especially of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3 and EXT violet N° 2.
  • R30, R31 and R 32 represent a hydrogen atom
  • - p represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 5;
  • J represents a nitro or nitroso group; more particularly nitro;
  • J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical - S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; more preferentially, J represents a radical
  • - M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; , which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more R30 groups as defined previously;
  • formulae (VII) and (VIII) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + or one carboxylate radical C(0)0 " -, M + ; more preferentially sodium sulfonate.
  • dyes of formula (VII) mention may be made especially of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3.
  • dyes of formula (VIII) mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1, the sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5- nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'- nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid, 4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid and EXT D&C yellow 7.
  • R37, R38, R39, R40, R41 , R42, R43 and R44 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom
  • R41 to R44 which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0)2S(0 ⁇ )-, M + ; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted with an (0) 2 S(0 group;
  • dyes of formula (IX) mention may be made especially of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50.
  • R45, R46, R47 and R48 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
  • R49, R50, R51 and R52 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • R49, R50, R51 and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
  • G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with R e as defined previously; more particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
  • - L represents an alkoxide O " , M + ; a thioalkoxide S " , M + or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group and M + as defined previously; M + is particularly sodium or potassium;
  • Q and Q' which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; more particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
  • dyes of formula (X) mention may in particular be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95 and Acid Violet 9;
  • X, X' and X" which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
  • G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; more particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
  • formula (XI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 " -, M + ; more preferentially sodium sulfonate.
  • anionic direct dye(s) that may be used according to the invention are preferentially chosen from those of formulae (I), (II), (III), (IV), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX), (X), (XI) and (XII) as defined above.
  • the anionic direct dye(s) that are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from l,2-dihydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid (C.I. 58005), the monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-l- anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid (C.I. 60730), the monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy- 1 -naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonic acid (C.I.
  • the direct dye(s) are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
  • the direct dye(s) represent(s) a total content of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises one or more aqueous-phase thickeners.
  • aqueous-phase thickener means compounds which, by their presence at a concentration of 0.05%> by weight, increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
  • the aqueous-phase thickener(s) are preferentially chosen from non- associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • sucrose unit means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • the sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • sugar units that may be included in the composition of the aqueous-phase thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  • Non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units that may especially be mentioned include native gums such as:
  • gum arabic branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • karaya gum polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
  • gums resulting from algae including:
  • gums resulting from seeds or tubers including:
  • microbial gums including:
  • - gellan gum polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • e) plant extracts including:
  • These polymers can be physically or chemically modified.
  • physical treatment mention may in particular be made of the temperature.
  • Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may especially be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.
  • these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
  • nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with Ci-C 6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.
  • Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA- 70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).
  • amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
  • the anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site.
  • the anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic.
  • the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
  • cellulose-based polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via ⁇ -1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • cellulose ethers cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.
  • cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.
  • cellulose ester ethers mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof.
  • carboxymethylcelluloses for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon
  • carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon
  • cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200® and Celquat H 100® by the company National Starch.
  • the non-associative thickening polymers may be chosen from crosslinked 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.
  • Use may also be made of cationic thickening polymers of acrylic type.
  • associative polymers are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
  • Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
  • the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a mono functional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • the ones most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), especially those sold by the company CIBA under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are aqueous 30%> emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10).
  • Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids that are useful in the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
  • anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are those constituted of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4%> to 40%> by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those constituted of from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.
  • the ones most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRl®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TRl®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.
  • maleic anhydride/C3o-C38 a-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product (maleic anhydride/C3o-C38 a-olefm/isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.
  • a nonionic monourethane which is the product of reaction of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate
  • Example 3 such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 OE) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion;
  • copolymers comprising among their monomers an ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
  • these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol.
  • Aculyn 22® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer; and also Aculyn 88, also sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
  • amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
  • (Meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will more preferentially be used.
  • APMS 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • the polymers of this family may be chosen especially from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, ⁇ -substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, ⁇ - substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, ⁇ - substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • amphoteric associative polymers the ones that are preferred are acrylic acid/(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
  • celluloses or derivatives thereof modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof wherein the alkyl groups are of C 8 , and in particular:
  • the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer).
  • These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the organic solvents are chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol and phenoxy ethanol, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.
  • oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, groundnut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, beauty- leaf oil, rapeseed oil, copra oil, coriander oil, marrow oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil or liquid jojoba wax, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene;
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters, for instance: - cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhe
  • the non- volatile oils may be chosen from mixtures of hydrocarbon-based and silicone non- volatile oils.
  • volatile oil means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
  • Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohol, ester or acid means an alcohol, ester or acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the oil(s) are chosen from C 6 -Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, oils of plant origin, especially hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the oil(s) are chosen from C 6 -Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, liquid fatty alcohols, oils of plant origin, especially hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty-phase thickeners.
  • fatty-phase thickener means compounds which, by their presence at a content of 0.05%> by weight, increase the viscosity of the fatty phase into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at 25°C, at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
  • the fatty-phase thickener(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from mineral fatty-phase thickeners and organic fatty-phase thickeners, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the mineral fatty-phase thickeners that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably mineral particles constituted essentially of mineral oxides and/or hydroxides.
  • These particles are preferably insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C).
  • insoluble means a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight.
  • the number-average primary size of these mineral particles ranges from 0.01 to 500 ⁇ , it preferably ranges from 0.1 to 200 ⁇ and even more preferentially it ranges from 1 to 100 ⁇ .
  • primary particle size means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points on an individual particle.
  • the mineral fatty-phase thickener(s) are platelet-shaped particles.
  • the mineral fatty-phase thickener(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may preferably be chosen from silicas and silicates.
  • the silicates of the invention may be natural or chemically modified (or synthetic).
  • Silicates correspond to optionally hydrated silica in which some of the silicon atoms are replaced with metal cations such as Al 3+ , B 3+ , Fe 3+ , Ga 3+ , Be 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ ,
  • Clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials are preferably used.
  • the silicate may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicate(s) are preferably chosen from bentonites and hectorites.
  • the silicates may be modified with a compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicates that are suitable for use, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 hectorites, such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DO A, Bentone Gel EC05, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone Gel IPP, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8 and Bentone Gel VS38 by Rheox, and Simagel M and Simagel SI 345 by Biophil.
  • the mineral fatty-phase thickener(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be silicas.
  • the silicas that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably fumed silicas.
  • the fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas bearing a large number of silanol groups at their surface.
  • hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-Sil EH- 5®, Cab-O-Sil LM-130®, Cab-O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5® by the company Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane.
  • Silicas thus treated are known as silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O- Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
  • the fumed silicas that may be used in the composition according to the invention are hydrophilic, such as the product sold under the name Aerosil 200®.
  • the mineral fatty-phase thickener(s) are chosen from organophilic clays and hydrophilic fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.
  • the mineral fatty-phase thickeners are chosen from hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 12 fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride, and hydrophilic fumed silicas such as the hydrophilic silicas sold under the name Aerosil 200®.
  • the mineral fatty-phase thickeners are chosen from hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 12 fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by Elementis, and the hectorite modified with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 27V by Elementis.
  • the fatty-phase thickener(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may also be chosen from organic fatty-phase thickeners.
  • the organic fatty-phase thickener(s) are chosen from semi- crystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, saccharide or polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters, N-acylamino acid amide derivatives, polymers comprising an alkylene and/or styrene block, such as polystearyl acrylates, elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, solid fatty esters, in particular C8-C30 and preferably C18-C24 fatty acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • These copolymers may be diblock, triblock or multi-block polymers, radial-block polymers, also known as star copolymers, or alternatively comb polymers.
  • C8-C30 and preferably C18-C24 fatty acid esters mention may be made of mono-, di- or triesters of C8-C30 and preferably C18-C24 fatty acids and of polyols, more particularly mono-, di- or triesters of C8-C30 and preferably C18-C24 fatty acids and of glycerol. Use may especially be made of a mixture of these compounds such as a mixture of mono-, di- and triesters of behenic acid and of glycerol.
  • the organic fatty-phase thickener(s) are chosen from semi- crystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, polymers comprising an alkylene and/or styrene block, such as polystearyl acrylates, solid fatty esters, in particular C8-C30 and preferably C18-C24 fatty acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the organic fatty-phase thickener(s) are chosen from C8-C30 and preferably C18-C24 fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, better still esters of C8-C30 and preferably C18-C24 fatty acids and of polyols, more particularly mono-, di- or triesters of C8-C30 and preferably C18-C24 fatty acids and of glycerol.
  • the fatty-phase thickener(s) are chosen from organic thickeners.
  • the fatty-phase thickener(s) generally represent a total content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase of the composition may also comprise any usual liposoluble or lipodispersible additive, for instance other solid or pasty fatty substances such as waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acids. It may also comprise compounds such as alkylene carbonates, for instance propylene carbonate, which can reinforce the efficacy of certain fatty-phase thickeners such as silicates.
  • the fatty phase (B) generally represents from 10%> to 50%> by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight and more preferentially from 20% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention does not comprise any surfactant.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% of surfactants.
  • composition according to the invention may contain additives conventionally used in the cosmetics field other than those described previously, and chosen from UV-screening agents, resins, fragrances, peptizers, vitamins, amino acids, preserving agents, alkaline agents, acidifying agents, etc.
  • the above adjuvants may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel, namely a thickened aqueous solution which comprises oily inclusions, such as oily swirls. More preferably, the composition is in the form of a gel with oily inclusions, such as oily swirls.
  • the two phases (A) and (B) each have a viscosity of greater than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s, better still ranging from 0.1 to 500 Pa.s, even better still from 0.5 to 300 Pa.s and more preferably from 1 to 200 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C, at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 (measurable, for example, with a Haake RS600 rheometer).
  • each of the two phases (A) and (B) has a threshold stress at 25°C ranging from 0.1 to 300 Pa, preferably from 1 to 250 Pa and more preferably from 10 to 200 Pa.
  • the threshold stress is determined by scanning under stress at 25°C.
  • An imposed-stress Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with sandblasted cone-plate geometry is used.
  • the temperature is regulated by a Peltier-effect plate and an anti-evaporation device (solvent trap filled with water for the measurements at 25°C).
  • a logarithmic stress elevation from 0.5 to 500 Pa is performed over a period of 3 minutes.
  • Two adjustment lines corresponding to the stationary regimes (solid and liquid behaviours) are plotted on the curve representing the strain as a function of the stress (logarithmic coordinates). The intersection of these two lines gives the value of the stress threshold.
  • the measurement is taken before mixing the two phases.
  • the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 1.5 to 10 and preferably from 2 to 7. Even more preferentially, the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 5, better still ranging from 1.5 to 4 and even better still from 2 to 3.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 1.5 to 10 and preferably from 2 to 7. Even more preferentially, the pH of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 5, better still ranging from 1.5 to 4 and even better still from 2 to 3.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a process for preparing a composition as defined above, which comprises: a) a step of preparing, separately from each other, phases (A) and (B) as described above, by mixing the constituents of each phase, and then
  • the step of placing the various phases in contact is performed by means of one or more static mixers.
  • the ingredients of the first phase (phase (A)) are mixed separately from the ingredients of the second phase (phase (B)).
  • Each of the phases is prepared in a tank specifically dedicated thereto.
  • Each phase is then introduced separately into a static mixer, i.e. a tube inside which is a three-dimensional structure promoting the appearance of turbulence during the passage of a fluid.
  • the phases are mixed with a static device, i.e. a device that is not driven by a rotary system, thus avoiding dispersion of one of the phases in the other.
  • the blades of the static mixing elements continuously divide the components into layers and stretch them out over the entire cross section of the pipe, which makes it possible to obtain a multi-phase composition according to the invention in which the phases are visually distinct.
  • the visual appearance of the composition according to the invention is of "marbled” type.
  • This "marbled” visual appearance may be modified as a function of the number of mixing elements used and the amount of first phase and of second phase.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, which consists in applying said composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres that have previously optionally been washed with shampoo.
  • the composition according to the invention is applied to dry keratin fibres.
  • the keratin fibres are generally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
  • composition according to the present invention is applied with a leave-on time that may range from 1 to 30 minutes, preferably from 2 to 20 minutes.
  • the fatty phase B was dispersed first in the aqueous phase Al and secondly in the aqueous phase A2 by means of two static mixing elements of SMX Sulzer type 15 mm in diameter.
  • - CI comprising 70% by weight of aqueous phase Al and 30% by weight of fatty phase B, relative to the total weight of the final composition
  • - C2 comprising 70%> by weight of aqueous phase A2 and 30%> by weight of fatty phase B, relative to the total weight of the final composition.
  • compositions CI and C2 the two phases are visually distinct: pale marbling of fatty phase dispersed in the black aqueous phase is distinguished.
  • compositions Al and CI are applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hairs, on a hotplate at 40°C (4 g of composition per gram of lock of hair).
  • a standard shampoo is applied.
  • the colorimetric measurements are taken using a CM-3660d spectrophotometer in the CIELab system (illuminant D65, angle 10°).
  • composition Al or CI A standardized amount (50 ⁇ in an Eppendorf pipette) of composition Al or CI is deposited on a polyurethane membrane (scalp model).
  • Leave-on time 15 minutes at 40°C (on a hotplate).
  • the colour variation ⁇ ' between the dyed membrane and the non-dyed membrane is then evaluated in the CIELab system using standardized photographs and then analysed with colorimetric measurement software.
  • ⁇ ' is calculated according to the preceding equation, L*, a* and b* representing here the values measured for the membrane after dyeing and the parameters Lo*, ao* and bo* representing the values measured for the untreated membrane.
  • Lo*, ao* and bo* representing the values measured for the untreated membrane.
  • composition CI according to the invention which comprises 30% less of direct dyes than the comparative composition Al, nevertheless has very good colour build-up, almost equivalent to the colour build-up of the comparative composition.
  • composition CI according to the invention Furthermore, there is half as much staining of the scalp with the use of composition CI according to the invention as with the comparative composition.
  • Example 2 In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given, unless otherwise indicated, as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions Al and A2 were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below.
  • the oily composition (B) was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below.
  • composition CI is obtained;
  • the hair dyeing obtained using the inventive composition CI leads to a staining of the scalp which is significantly less important than the hair dyeing obtained using the comparative composition C2 containing less than 6% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition C2, while presenting equivalent dyeing performances.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour la coloration directe de fibres kératiniques, comprenant : - une phase aqueuse (A) comprenant au moins 0,1 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, d'un ou de plusieurs colorants directs, d'un ou de plusieurs épaississants en phase aqueuse, d'un ou de plusieurs solvants organiques et d'eau, - au moins 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, d'une phase grasse (B) comprenant une ou plusieurs huiles et un ou plusieurs épaississants en phase grasse. L'invention concerne également un procédé pour la préparation de cette composition. Enfin, l'invention concerne un procédé de coloration directe de fibres de kératine, comprenant une étape d'application de ladite composition sur les fibres de kératine.
PCT/EP2017/084406 2016-12-22 2017-12-22 Composition cosmétique pour coloration directe comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse qui sont visuellement distinctes l'une de l'autre Ceased WO2018115451A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1663169A FR3060986B1 (fr) 2016-12-22 2016-12-22 Composition cosmetique de coloration directe comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse visuellement distinctes l'une de l'autre
FR1663169 2016-12-22

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2018115451A1 true WO2018115451A1 (fr) 2018-06-28

Family

ID=58501567

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2017/084406 Ceased WO2018115451A1 (fr) 2016-12-22 2017-12-22 Composition cosmétique pour coloration directe comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse qui sont visuellement distinctes l'une de l'autre

Country Status (2)

Country Link
FR (1) FR3060986B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2018115451A1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2020040916A (ja) * 2018-09-12 2020-03-19 株式会社ダリヤ ２層分離型化粧料組成物
WO2021123325A1 (fr) * 2019-12-20 2021-06-24 L'oreal Composition comprenant un colorant naturel, un dispersant, une huile et un épaississant à phase grasse

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3136169A1 (fr) * 2022-06-01 2023-12-08 L'oreal Procédé de traitement capillaire pour limiter la perte de brillance des cheveux
FR3136171A1 (fr) * 2022-06-01 2023-12-08 L'oreal Procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux, comprenant une étape de lavage, une étape d’application d’une composition cosmétique comprenant des aminoacides et des (poly)acides carboxyliques hydroxylés, puis une étape de conditionnement.
FR3136168A1 (fr) * 2022-06-01 2023-12-08 L'oreal Procédé de traitement capillaire pour le renforcement des cheveux sensibilisés, fragilisés et/ou abîmés

Citations (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2798053A (en) 1952-09-03 1957-07-02 Goodrich Co B F Carboxylic polymers
US2923692A (en) 1954-01-25 1960-02-02 Goodrich Co B F Mucilaginous composition comprising salt of crosslinked carboxylic polymer and method of preparing same
US3915921A (en) 1974-07-02 1975-10-28 Goodrich Co B F Unsaturated carboxylic acid-long chain alkyl ester copolymers and tri-polymers water thickening agents and emulsifiers
US4131576A (en) 1977-12-15 1978-12-26 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Process for the preparation of graft copolymers of a water soluble monomer and polysaccharide employing a two-phase reaction system
FR2416723A1 (fr) 1978-02-14 1979-09-07 Hoechst Ag Utilisation de polymeres reticules pour elever la viscosite de produits cosmetiques, pharmaceutiques ou techniques
US4509949A (en) 1983-06-13 1985-04-09 The B. F. Goodrich Company Water thickening agents consisting of copolymers of crosslinked acrylic acids and esters
EP0173109A2 (fr) 1984-08-23 1986-03-05 DeSOTO, INC. Agent épaississant pour latex soluble dans un milieu alcalin
US5089578A (en) 1986-03-28 1992-02-18 Exxon Research And Engineering Company Hydrophobically associating terpolymers containing sulfonate functionality
EP0503853A2 (fr) 1991-03-08 1992-09-16 Scott Bader Company Limited Agents épaississants polymères solubles dans l'eau pour produits pour l'application topique
EP0750899A2 (fr) 1995-06-30 1997-01-02 Shiseido Company Limited Agent émulsionnant ou agent solubilisant qui est composé du polyélectrolyte amphiphile soluble dans l'eau et composition émulsifié le contenant ou composition solubilisé le contenant et cosmétique émulsifié le contenant ou cosmétique solubilisé le contenant
WO1998044012A1 (fr) 1997-03-31 1998-10-08 Calgon Corporation Polymeres amphoteres pour produits d'hygiene corporelle
WO2000031154A1 (fr) 1998-11-23 2000-06-02 Sofitech N.V. Emulsions inversables stabilisees par des polymeres amphiphiles. application a des fluides de forage
WO2000068282A1 (fr) 1999-05-07 2000-11-16 Isp Investments Inc. Copolymeres triples revitalisants/coiffants
EP2022467A1 (fr) * 2007-08-07 2009-02-11 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition à deux phases de conditionnement des cheveux
WO2010084055A2 (fr) * 2009-01-22 2010-07-29 Unilever Plc Composition colorante pour cheveux
FR3012331A1 (fr) * 2013-10-31 2015-05-01 Oreal Procede de coloration directe et composition de coloration directe multiphasique

Patent Citations (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2798053A (en) 1952-09-03 1957-07-02 Goodrich Co B F Carboxylic polymers
US2923692A (en) 1954-01-25 1960-02-02 Goodrich Co B F Mucilaginous composition comprising salt of crosslinked carboxylic polymer and method of preparing same
US3915921A (en) 1974-07-02 1975-10-28 Goodrich Co B F Unsaturated carboxylic acid-long chain alkyl ester copolymers and tri-polymers water thickening agents and emulsifiers
US4131576A (en) 1977-12-15 1978-12-26 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Process for the preparation of graft copolymers of a water soluble monomer and polysaccharide employing a two-phase reaction system
FR2416723A1 (fr) 1978-02-14 1979-09-07 Hoechst Ag Utilisation de polymeres reticules pour elever la viscosite de produits cosmetiques, pharmaceutiques ou techniques
US4509949A (en) 1983-06-13 1985-04-09 The B. F. Goodrich Company Water thickening agents consisting of copolymers of crosslinked acrylic acids and esters
EP0173109A2 (fr) 1984-08-23 1986-03-05 DeSOTO, INC. Agent épaississant pour latex soluble dans un milieu alcalin
US5089578A (en) 1986-03-28 1992-02-18 Exxon Research And Engineering Company Hydrophobically associating terpolymers containing sulfonate functionality
EP0503853A2 (fr) 1991-03-08 1992-09-16 Scott Bader Company Limited Agents épaississants polymères solubles dans l'eau pour produits pour l'application topique
EP0750899A2 (fr) 1995-06-30 1997-01-02 Shiseido Company Limited Agent émulsionnant ou agent solubilisant qui est composé du polyélectrolyte amphiphile soluble dans l'eau et composition émulsifié le contenant ou composition solubilisé le contenant et cosmétique émulsifié le contenant ou cosmétique solubilisé le contenant
WO1998044012A1 (fr) 1997-03-31 1998-10-08 Calgon Corporation Polymeres amphoteres pour produits d'hygiene corporelle
WO2000031154A1 (fr) 1998-11-23 2000-06-02 Sofitech N.V. Emulsions inversables stabilisees par des polymeres amphiphiles. application a des fluides de forage
WO2000068282A1 (fr) 1999-05-07 2000-11-16 Isp Investments Inc. Copolymeres triples revitalisants/coiffants
EP2022467A1 (fr) * 2007-08-07 2009-02-11 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition à deux phases de conditionnement des cheveux
WO2010084055A2 (fr) * 2009-01-22 2010-07-29 Unilever Plc Composition colorante pour cheveux
FR3012331A1 (fr) * 2013-10-31 2015-05-01 Oreal Procede de coloration directe et composition de coloration directe multiphasique

Non-Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"Colour Index", THE SOCIETY OF DYERS AND COLOURISTS
"Div. Polym. Chem.", POLYM. PREPRINT, vol. 40, no. 2, 1999, pages 220 - 221
CHINESE JOURNAL OF POLYMER SCIENCE, vol. 18, no. 40, 2000, pages 323 - 336
G. FONNUM; J. BAKKE; FK. HANSEN, COLLOIDPOLYM. SCI., vol. 271, 1993, pages 380 - 389
LANGMUIR, vol. 16, no. 12, 2000, pages 5324 - 5332
MACROMOLECULES, vol. 33, no. 10, 2000, pages 3694 - 3704

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2020040916A (ja) * 2018-09-12 2020-03-19 株式会社ダリヤ ２層分離型化粧料組成物
JP7205869B2 (ja) 2018-09-12 2023-01-17 株式会社ダリヤ ２層分離型化粧料組成物
WO2021123325A1 (fr) * 2019-12-20 2021-06-24 L'oreal Composition comprenant un colorant naturel, un dispersant, une huile et un épaississant à phase grasse
FR3104994A1 (fr) * 2019-12-20 2021-06-25 L'oreal Composition comprenant un colorant Naturel, un agent dispersant, une huile et un épaississant de phase grasse

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3060986A1 (fr) 2018-06-29
FR3060986B1 (fr) 2020-02-14

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
WO2018115451A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique pour coloration directe comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse qui sont visuellement distinctes l'une de l'autre
EP2988722B1 (fr) Composition comprenant du henné et/ou de l'indigo, une huile et un saccharide, et procédé de coloration des cheveux l'utilisant
WO2014188007A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse visuellement distinctes
FR3075637B1 (fr) Procede de coloration capillaire comprenant une etape de coloration avec du henne et/ou de l’indigo et une etape de traitement comprenant l’application d’une phase aqueuse, une phase grasse et un colorant direct
EP2787965B1 (fr) Composition à base de poudre de henné rouge et d'une ou plusieurs huiles et procédé de coloration de cheveux utilisant cette composition
EP3236918B1 (fr) Utilisation d'ester d'acide gras pour matifier la peau, et composition comprenant cet ester
WO2014174114A2 (fr) Procédé de coloration de cheveux utilisant du henné puis de l'indigo et une huile et/ou un beurre
WO2018115450A1 (fr) Procédé de coloration directe de fibres kératiniques comprenant l'application de deux compositions individuelles
US11883512B2 (en) Alkaline composition comprising at least three different alkaline agents for the treatment of keratin fibres, methods and uses
JP7362237B2 (ja) ケラチン繊維を染色するための方法及びキット
WO2013083702A1 (fr) Composition à base de poudre de henné rouge et de beurre(s), et procédé de teinture de cheveux à l'aide de ladite composition
CN105025875B (zh) 包括乳化的亲水性胶凝剂的乳剂形式的变色组合物
FR3075607A1 (fr) Procede de coloration capillaire comprenant une etape de traitement avec un sel de titane et une etape de coloration comprenant l’application d’une phase aqueuse, une phase grasse et un colorant direct
WO2020002658A1 (fr) Procédé pour boucler des fibres de kératine comprenant l'application sur les fibres d'une composition contenant de l'acide thiolactique
WO2014174116A2 (fr) Composition basée sur une poudre de henné ou d'indigo ayant une prédispersion d'huile, et procédé de coloration de cheveux utilisant cette composition
JP7237469B2 (ja) ケラチン繊維を染色するための方法及びキット
WO2021123061A1 (fr) Procédé de préparation d'une composition pour la teinture des cheveux à partir d'une composition sous forme de poudre et d'une composition aqueuse
WO2025127158A1 (fr) Composition de type e/h comprenant une résine indène
WO2025093496A1 (fr) Composition aqueuse de sorbet comprenant un polymère d'acide (alkyl)acrylique, un polysaccharide et un colorant, et procédé cosmétique l'utilisant
WO2025127160A1 (fr) Composition de type e/h comprenant des cires polaires et non polaires
WO2021123325A1 (fr) Composition comprenant un colorant naturel, un dispersant, une huile et un épaississant à phase grasse
EP4593792A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire comprenant au moins une silicone aminée particulière et au moins un agent colorant et/ou un azurant optique, et procédé de traitement capillaire cosmétique
WO2024141615A1 (fr) Composition comprenant au moins de l'acide n,n-dicarboxyméthylglutamique, au moins un colorant et au moins une amine grasse
WO2025127159A1 (fr) Procédé de préparation d'une composition cosmétique de type e/h
US20170258690A1 (en) Composition comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase that are visually distinct used for hair treatment

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 17822317

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 17822317

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1