[go: up one dir, main page]

WO2018153701A1 - Composition topique à texture ferme - Google Patents

Composition topique à texture ferme Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2018153701A1
WO2018153701A1 PCT/EP2018/053335 EP2018053335W WO2018153701A1 WO 2018153701 A1 WO2018153701 A1 WO 2018153701A1 EP 2018053335 W EP2018053335 W EP 2018053335W WO 2018153701 A1 WO2018153701 A1 WO 2018153701A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
hydroxystearic acid
weight
water
stick
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2018/053335
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Guillaume Bernard LAURENT
Szilvia MESAROS
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
DSM IP Assets BV
Original Assignee
DSM IP Assets BV
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by DSM IP Assets BV filed Critical DSM IP Assets BV
Priority to CN201880013020.9A priority Critical patent/CN110381913A/zh
Priority to EP18703034.1A priority patent/EP3585350A1/fr
Publication of WO2018153701A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018153701A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229—Sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an easily spreadable topical composition.
  • pots with a removable, sometimes rotatable lid are used. Pots as used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry are often sealed with a peelable liner made of aluminum, plastic or paper before attaching the lid. Direct contact of the topical composition with the peelable liner is undesired but difficult to avoid in case the topical composition is flowable.
  • cosmetic pots are made of glass or plastic. They often have a diameter of less than 20 cm. Such pots are mostly used to store, transport or sell compositions for topical use on consumer's skin. An example of such a pot is shown in FIGU RE 1.
  • the topical composition in the pot is a solid wax.
  • the topical composition is a flowable composition. At room temperature, most skin creams are at least to a certain extent flowable.
  • the composition comprises water, at least one lipophilic ingredient and hydroxystearic acid. It is thick in appearance and as such, the composition is firm enough to avoid the contact with the lid and/or peelable liner of a pot during transportation. Surprisingly, the composition can be easily spread onto the skin despite of its firmness.
  • compositions comprising water and hydroxystearic acid have been discussed in the prior art.
  • US 9,539,190 discloses non-solid skin conditioning compositions comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid which are suitable for spreading on the skin.
  • a skin conditioning composition which is easily spreadable despite of having a firm texture is not disclosed in US 9,539,190.
  • compositions comprising water, at least one lipophilic ingredient and hydroxystearic acid depends on the manufacturing process.
  • a composition prepared according to the present invention is a yield-pseudoplastic fluid. Such composition is non-flowable unless yield stress is exceeded.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably prepared by a method comprising the steps: allow an emulsion comprising water, hydroxystearic acid, at least one lipophilic ingredient and preferably at least one emulsifier to cool down under stirring;
  • the final composition does not have a firm texture, i.e. is not a yield-pseudoplastic fluid according to the invention.
  • the texture of a composition can be analyzed by a texture analyzer, as known in the art.
  • a penetration test as described in WO 2014/009079, a plunger is forced into a composition and the force required for penetration of the composition is plotted against the distance (or time) of penetration into the composition at a predetermined speed to a pre-determined depth of penetration.
  • a composition has a breaking point if the maximum force is observed before reaching the maximum distance (depth) of penetration.
  • the occurrence of a breaking point typically relates to the irreversible deformation of the structure of a composition.
  • maximum force is observed at the maximum distance (depth) of penetration.
  • Such composition does not have a breaking point.
  • the force at the breaking point is preferably at least 0.1 kg. No breaking point is observed if stirring is not stopped during preparation of the composition.
  • the hydroxyl group of hydroxystearic acid might be at different positions.
  • the preferred hydroxystearic acid is 10-hydroxystearic acid.
  • Compositions comprising 10-hydroxystearic acid have an increased firmness but are nonetheless easily spreadable. An increase of the composition's firmness avoids contact of the composition with the pot's closure even if transportation is rough. If an increased amount of hydroxystearic acid is used, the composition of the invention may be hard enough to produce a cosmetic stick. When applied to the skin, the part of the composition forming the top of the stick changes its
  • a cosmetic stick made of the composition of the invention is an alternative, surprising solution to avoid staining of the consumer's handbag due to movements during transportation.
  • composition according the invention comprises water, hydroxystearic acid, at least one lipophilic ingredient and preferably at least one emulsifier.
  • non-ionic emulsifiers are used. Particularly good results are achieved when cetearyl glucoside is used.
  • Anionic emulsifiers are not preferred.
  • hydroxystearic acid is not considered as emulsifier, i.e. hydroxystearic acid is an ingredient sui generis.
  • hydroxystearic acid may facilitate the provision of an emulsion
  • addition of an emulsifier is optional.
  • a "lipophilic ingredient” is able to dissolve in fats, oils, lipids and/or non-polar solvents such as hexane or toluene.
  • hydroxystearic acid is not considered as lipophilic ingredient, i.e. hydroxystearic acid is an ingredient sui generis.
  • the lipophilic ingredient may be a cosmetically acceptable oil.
  • Suitable oils may be volatile or non-volatile, or a mixture of both.
  • Suitable volatile oils include, but are not limited to straight or branched chain hydrocarbons having from 8-20 carbon atoms, such as decane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, and Cs-2o isoparaffins.
  • Nonvolatile oils include, but are not limited to, vegetable oils, such as coconut oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, soybean oil, almond oil, argan oil, carboxylic acid esters such as isostearyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate/ca prate, decyl isostearate, myristyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, animal oils such as lanolin and lanolin derivatives, tallow, mink oil or cholesterol; glyceryl esters, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate;
  • caprylic/capric triglyceride and non-volatile hydrocarbons, such as isoparaffins, squalane, or petrolatum.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins, squalane, or petrolatum.
  • a further suitable group of lipophilic ingredients are oil soluble sunscreen agents.
  • hydroxyl group of hydroxystearic acid may be at different positions, 9-hydroxystearic acid, 10-hydroxystearic acid, 11-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, 13-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof are preferred. Particularly preferred are 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and a mixture thereof. 10-hydroxystearic acid is the most preferred hydroxystearic acid. Both enantiomers of 10-hydroxystearic acid may be used according to the invention, but the preferred enantiomeric form of 10-hydroxystearic acid is (R)-lO-hydroxystearic acid.
  • hydroxystearic acid may be partially deprotonated.
  • the term hydroxystearic acid includes the conjugate base of the free acid.
  • the composition comprises hydroxystearic acid in an amount of less than 3 weight%, preferably in an amount of less than 2 weight%, and most preferably in an amount of less than 1.5 weight%, wherein the minimal amount of hydroxystearic acid is preferably 0.1 weight%, more preferably 0.2 weight% and most preferably 0.5 weight%.
  • the most preferred range is from 0.5 weight% to 1.5 weight% hydroxystearic acid.
  • the composition comprises hydroxystearic acid in an amount of at least 2 weight% and preferably in an amount of at least 3 weight%, wherein the composition comprises preferably less than 10 weight% of hydroxystearic acid.
  • "weight%" refers to the amount based on the total weight of the composition.
  • One embodiment of the invention relates to the use of hydroxystearic acid for preparing a composition with a firmness of at least 0.1 kg.
  • the required firmness is achieved if the composition comprising water, at least one lipophilic ingredient and hydroxystearic acid is prepared according to the invention.
  • Methods for preparing emulsions are well known to the person skilled in the art. These methods encompass homogenization of an oil phase and of a water phase under high shear stress at elevated temperature. After homogenization, the mixture is allowed to cool down or is cooled down by a cooling medium such as cold water. During the cool down phase, the mixture is agitated e.g. by stirring at low shear. Said stirring is done for various reasons (e.g. to accelerate cooling, to cool down the inner parts of a large batch etc.). This is where the method of the invention differs from the state of the art. According to the invention, stirring must be stopped before the homogenized mixture (i.e. the emulsion) reaches room temperature.
  • the hot mixture is filled into smaller containers (such as cosmetic pots or canisters) in order to cool down to room temperature in said containers. After having reached room temperature, the cosmetic pots etc. are ready to be sold. If stirring is not stopped before the homogenized mixture reaches room temperature, the final composition is not a yield-pseudoplastic fluid with the required firm texture.
  • phase A mix ingredients of phase A and heat up to more than 70°C, said phase A comprising water and any other optional ingredient;
  • phase B mix ingredients of phase B and heat up to more than 70°C, said phase B comprising hydroxystearic acid, at least one lipophilic ingredient and preferably at least one emulsifier;
  • hydroxystearic acid is preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof.
  • phase A For homogenization, high shear is applied (e.g. Ultra Turrax ® ; 13500 rpm). The aim of homogenization is providing an emulsion of phase A and phase B.
  • an emulsion comprising water, at least one lipophilic ingredient, hydroxystearic acid and preferably at least one emulsifier;
  • hydroxystearic acid is preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof.
  • the emulsion is prepared at elevated temperature under vigorous agitation.
  • the containers are cosmetics pots which can be used for selling the composition.
  • the hot emulsion is preferably filled in a canister with a dome-shaped end, a cone-shaped end or a flat end.
  • the present invention also relates to a composition prepared according the described method.
  • One embodiment of the invention relates to a composition prepared by a method comprising the steps:
  • an emulsion comprising water, hydroxystearic acid, at least one lipophilic ingredient and preferably at least one emulsifier to cool down under agitation, such as stirring;
  • hydroxystearic acid is preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof.
  • stirring refers preferably to low shear stirring (i.e. less than 300 rpm).
  • an emulsion comprising at least 70 weight% water, between 0.1 and 3 weight% hydroxystearic acid, at least one lipophilic ingredient and preferably at least one emulsifier;
  • hydroxystearic acid is preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the invention is resistant to flow and has a firm texture, it can be spread with ease on the skin or any other surface. This unexpected change of texture and the cooling effect which goes along with the change of texture is highly appreciated by consumers of cosmetic products.
  • the texture of the composition is facilitated by a three-dimensional network. If said three- dimensional network is destroyed (e.g. by spreading/stirring), the composition becomes fluid. During spreading, a cooling effect is sensed on the skin, possibly because of the destruction of the network requires energy.
  • Curves in a rheogram, showing the shear stress on the y-axis and showing the shear rate on the x-axis are referred to as flow curves.
  • Flow curves of Newtonian fluids are linear and pass through the origin.
  • Flow curves of non-Newtonian fluids are nonlinear and/or do not pass through the origin.
  • Some non-Newtonian fluids show visco-plastic fluid behavior, i.e. a yield stress must be exceeded for the composition to flow. If the externally applied stress is less than the yield stress, the composition is non-flowable, i.e. behaves like an elastic solid or a rigid body. If the externally applied stress is more than the yield stress, the structure breaks down and the composition begins to flow.
  • the composition is called a Bingham plastic fluid. If the composition shows shear-thinning once the applied stress is more than the yield stress, the composition is referred to as yield-pseudoplastic fluid.
  • the corresponding flow curve is not linear; the curve's slope decreases as the share rate is increased. A more detailed description of these terms can be found for example in "Non- Newtonian Fluids: An Introduction” by Chhabra, Rajendra P., Rheology of Complex Fluids, 2010, p3-34, 32p.
  • the composition according to the invention is a yield-pseudoplastic fluid.
  • yield-pseudoplastic fluid refers to a composition (i) wherein a yield stress must be exceeded for the composition to flow and (ii) wherein the slope of the shear stress versus shear rate curve of the composition decreases to approximate zero at a shear rate of approximately 450/s.
  • This is to be understood as a qualitative description of the flow curve and has to be seen in contrast to the flow curve of a Bingham plastic fluid, said flow curve becoming approximately linear as the shear stress is increased (cf. FIGU RES 2, 3, and 4).
  • the composition is a yield-pseudoplastic fluid comprising:
  • hydroxystearic acid is preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof.
  • the difference between the shear stress of the composition at a shear rate of 400/s and the shear stress of the same composition at a shear rate of 600/s is less than 20 Pa, more preferably less than 10 Pa and most preferably less than 5 Pa.
  • “difference” refers to the absolute value, i.e. the non-negative value without regard to its sign.
  • the composition is a yield-pseudoplastic fluid, wherein the difference between the shear stress of the composition at a shear rate of 400/s and the shear stress of the same composition at a shear rate of 800/s is less than 40 Pa, preferably less than 30 Pa and most preferably less than 20 Pa. This is referred to as a curve having a plateau.
  • the composition is a yield- pseudoplastic fluid, wherein the difference between the shear stress of the composition at a shear rate of 200/s and the shear stress of the same composition at a shear rate of 800/s is less than 80 Pa, preferably less than 70 Pa and most preferably less than 60 Pa.
  • the plot of shear stress versus shear rate of a Bingham plastic fluid approximates a straight line with a constant slope being > 0, provided a shear rate of 700/s is not exceeded.
  • the manufacturing process according to the invention must be followed.
  • the discussed rheological properties do not depend on the specific ingredients of the composition, provided the composition comprises a suitable hydroxystearic acid. If stearic acid instead of hydroxystearic acid is used, the resulting composition is a Bingham plastic fluid as describe above, even if the manufacturing process according to the invention is used.
  • the composition of the invention does not flow until the shear stress reaches a critical transition point.
  • the stress at this point is known as yield stress.
  • the system acts like a more or less elastic solid.
  • a relatively high yield stress helps avoiding the contact of the composition filled in cosmetic pot with the pot's lid and/or peelable liner during transportation.
  • hydroxystearic acid is used to increase the yield stress of a yield-pseudoplastic fluid.
  • yield-pseudoplastic fluids comprising less than 10 weight% of hydroxystearic acid are easily spreadable, regardless of their yield stress.
  • Texture attributes such as firmness may be mechanically tested, e.g. by using the engineering concept of penetration resistance.
  • Penetration resistance testing involves the insertion of a probe (e.g. a metallic cylinder) into a composition with a certain firmness. The test is stopped at a predetermined depth of penetration before the probe reaches the plate holding the composition to be tested. The results of such testing can determine changes of the texture of a composition whose firmness is a measure of a quality.
  • a probe e.g. a metallic cylinder
  • the penetration resistance test is conducted at constant velocity, i.e. with a predetermined speed of the probe.
  • the speed of the probe i.e. the penetration rate
  • time corresponds to the distance of penetration into the composition.
  • the force necessary to maintain the pre-determined speed depends on the texture of the composition and is expressed in [kg].
  • pre-determined speed of the probe 2 mm/s
  • pre-determined depth of penetration 5 mm
  • the value of force to maintain the predetermined speed of the probe usually increases over time and reaches a maximum at the point of deepest penetration.
  • breaking point the breaking point may be the peak of a shoulder.
  • a composition has a "breaking point" if the maximum force occurs before the probe reaches a depth of 5 mm and before the probe reaches the plate holding the composition to be tested, wherein a probe is forced into said composition at a pre-determined speed at room temperature and wherein the force necessary to maintain a pre-determined speed is measured.
  • the above mentioned test conditions apply (room temperature, metallic cylinder having a diameter of 2 cm, speed of the probe: 2 mm/s).
  • the pre-determined depth of penetration is 5 mm.
  • any maximum force occurring at a penetration depth of 5 mm or more than 5 mm is not considered as a breaking point.
  • One embodiment of the invention relates to a composition comprising water, at least one lipophilic ingredient and hydroxystearic acid, wherein said composition has a breaking point when penetration resistance is tested.
  • WO 2014/009079 discloses semi-solid food gel which shows a breaking point in the first penetration cycle of two consecutive penetrations.
  • a breaking point is observed in the first cycle of the penetration test only. If the probe is withdrawn to perform a second cycle, the maximum force is observed at the maximum depth of penetration. A breaking point occurring only in the first of two consecutive penetrations indicates the irreversible deformation of the composition's structure during the first cycle.
  • the texture of the composition according to the invention is facilitated by a three-dimensional network.
  • relatively high force is needed to break/destroy said network. Therefore, the maximum force is observed as a breaking point before reaching the pre-determined depth of penetration. The destruction of the network is irreversible and thus, no breaking point is observed in the second cycle of the penetration test.
  • a breaking point is not observed (i) if stearic acid is used instead of hydroxystearic acid and/or (ii) if the composition has not been prepared according to the invention.
  • the value of the maximum force at the breaking point depends on the texture of the composition. In case of a very firm but penetrable composition, the maximum force is relatively high.
  • composition without a "breaking point” does not have a "firmness” expressed in [kg].
  • One embodiment of the invention relates to a composition comprising water, at least one lipophilic ingredient and hydroxystearic acid, wherein said composition has a firmness of at least 0.1 kg, preferably of at least 0.15 kg and most preferably of at least 0.16 kg.
  • One embodiment of the invention relates to the use of hydroxystearic acid for preparing a composition with a breaking point, wherein the composition has preferably a firmness of at least 0.1 kg, and wherein said hydroxystearic acid is preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition comprises water, at least one lipophilic ingredient and hydroxystearic acid and has a firmness of at least 0.1 kg, wherein the difference between the shear stress of the composition at a shear rate of 400/s and the shear stress of the same composition at a shear rate of 600/s is less than 20 Pa.
  • hydroxystearic acid is preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof, and wherein hydroxystearic acid is most preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid.
  • compositions of the invention are spreadable despite of having a firm texture, an increased firmness is a desired feature: The higher the firmness of the
  • the present invention also relates to the use of 10-hydroxystearic acid for increasing the firmness of a yield- pseudoplastic fluid, wherein said composition is preferably a cosmetic composition.
  • One embodiment of the invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising water, at least one lipophilic ingredient and 10-hydroxystearic acid, wherein said composition has a firmness of at least 0.2 kg, preferably of at least 0.3 kg and most preferably of at least 0.4 kg.
  • a firm but spreadable composition can be used to form a stick, e.g. cosmetic stick with a dome-shaped end.
  • the composition has a firmness of at least 0.2 kg and comprises:
  • hydroxystearic acid is preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or a mixture thereof, and wherein hydroxystearic acid is most preferably 10- hydroxystearic acid.
  • the force necessary to maintain the pre-determined speed of the probe increases relatively quickly.
  • the force to maintain a penetration rate of 2 mm/s exceeds 0.1 kg before a penetration depth of 1 mm is reached.
  • a metallic cylinder having a diameter of 2 cm is inserted into the composition at room temperature.
  • Example 1 Two compositions (451 and 452) comprising 10-hydroxystearic acid are prepared:
  • compositions 451 and 452 have the same ingredients in the same quantities, the manufacturing process is different. Due to the differences in the manufacturing process, ready-to-use compositions 451 and 452 have a different texture, resulting in different rheological properties.
  • Composition 451 is prepared according to the invention, whereas composition 452 is a comparative example.
  • phase B adds phase B to phase A and homogenize with high shear (Ultra-Turrax ® ,
  • composition in the pot has a firm texture after few hours at room temperature.
  • phase B adds phase B to phase A and homogenize with high shear (Ultra-Turrax ® 13500 rpm)
  • composition cool down under stirring (low shear) until the composition reaches room temperature. Once the composition has reached room temperature, the composition is still flowable.
  • Rheological data for establishing a rheogram is collected.
  • rheological data shear stress versus shear rate
  • an AR 550 Advanced Rheometer is used for collecting the rheological data (shear stress versus shear rate).
  • a plate SST ST 40mm is used for the measurement.
  • the force that is needed to achieve a certain turning speed allows the calculation of the shear stress and the shear rate of a composition.
  • the following test parameters are used:
  • compositions 451 and 452 are shown in FIGU RE 2.
  • the flow curve of composition 451 is the flow curve of a yield-pseudoplastic fluid according to the invention, the slope of the shear stress versus shear rate curve of the composition decreases to approximate zero at a shear rate of approximately 450/s. A plateau is reached.
  • the shear stress at a shear rate of 600/s has approximatively the same value as the shear stress at a shear rate of 400/s.
  • the flow curve of comparative composition 452 resembles the flow curve of a Bingham plastic fluid, i.e. the plot of shear stress versus shear rate approximates a straight line with a constant slope as the shear rate is increased. No plateau has been reached when the measurement is stopped at a shear rate of 1000/s. The shear stress at a shear rate of 600/s is higher than the shear stress at a shear rate of 400/s.
  • compositions (453 and 454) are prepared, similar to the compositions example 1.
  • 12-hydroxystearic acid instead of 10-hydroxystearic acid is used:
  • compositions 453 and 454 have the same ingredients in the same quantities, the manufacturing process is different (similar to example 1). Due to the differences in the manufacturing process, ready-to-use compositions 453 and 454 have a different texture, resulting in different rheological properties.
  • Composition 453 is prepared according to the invention, whereas composition 454 is a comparative example.
  • phase B adds phase B to phase A and homogenize with high shear (Ultra-Turrax ® , 13500 rpm)
  • composition in the pot has a firm texture after few hours at room temperature.
  • phase B adds phase B to phase A and homogenize with high shear (Ultra-Turrax ® 13500 rpm)
  • composition cool down under stirring (low shear) until the composition reaches room temperature. Once the composition has reached room temperature, the composition is still flowable.
  • compositions 453 and 454 are shown in FIGU RE 3.
  • the same equipment and test parameters as in example 1 are used.
  • the flow curve of composition 453 is the flow curve of a yield-pseudoplastic fluid according to the invention; the slope of the shear stress versus shear rate curve of the composition decreases to approximate zero at a shear rate of approximately 450/s.
  • the difference between the shear stress of the composition 453 at a shear rate of 400/s and the shear stress of the same composition at a shear rate of 600/s is less than 5 Pa.
  • the flow curve of comparative composition 454 resembles the flow curve of a Bingham plastic fluid, i.e. the plot of shear stress versus shear rate approximates a straight line with a constant slope as the shear rate is increased.
  • the shear stress at a shear rate of 600/s is higher than the shear stress at a shear rate of 400/s.
  • composition 451 (example 1; 10-hydroxystearic acid) and the flow curve composition 453 (example 2; 12-hydroxystearic acid) both show a plateau
  • the plateau at shear rates from 400/s to 600/s corresponds to a shear stress of approximately 292 Pa.
  • composition comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid instead of the preferred 10-hydroxystearic acid composition 453
  • the plateau is less pronounced and the corresponding shear stress is lower.
  • Examples 1 and 2 illustrate the importance of the manufacturing process: A composition prepared according the claimed manufacturing process has a particular texture, which is manifested in the respective rheological data. If the claimed manufacturing process is not followed (i.e. stirring is not stopped before reaching room temperature), the texture and the corresponding rheological data is different, even if the same ingredients in the same quantities are used.
  • compositions 455 and 456) are prepared, similar to the compositions of examples 1 and 2.
  • stearic acid instead of a hydroxystearic acid is used: 455 456
  • compositions 455 and 456 have the same ingredients in the same quantities, the manufacturing process is different (similar to examples 1 and 2). Despite of the difference in the manufacturing process, neither composition 455 nor composition 456 develop a firm texture.
  • phase B adds phase B to phase A and homogenize with high shear (Ultra-Turrax ® , 13500 rpm)
  • composition in the pot has not a firm texture after few hours at room temperature.
  • phase B mix all ingredients of phase B and heat up to 75-80°C add phase B to phase A and homogenize with high shear (Ultra-Turrax ® 13500 rpm)
  • composition cool down under stirring (low shear) until the composition reaches room temperature. Once the composition has reached room temperature, the composition is still flowable.
  • compositions 455 and 456 are shown in FIGU RE 4.
  • the same equipment and test parameters as in examples 1 and 2 are used.
  • the flow curves of comparative composition 455 and 456 resembles the flow curve of a Bingham plastic fluid, i.e. the plot of shear stress versus shear rate approximates a straight line with a constant slope, provided a shear rate of 700/s is not exceeded. No plateau is reached at shear rates between 400/s and 600/s. The shear stress at a shear rate of 600/s is higher than the shear stress at a shear rate of 400/s.
  • the flow curve of composition 455 resembles the flow curve of composition 456, i.e. using the manufacturing process according to the invention does not result in a plateau when using stearic acid instead of hydroxystearic acid.
  • Example 4 A penetrometer TAXT plus Texture Analyzer of the company Stable Micro Systems is used for measuring the penetration resistance.
  • composition 451 (10-hydroxystearic acid), composition 453 (12-hydroxystearic acid) and composition 455 (stearic acid) is shown. All of these compositions have been prepared according to the invention, i.e. stirring has been stopped before the respective mixture reaches room temperature.
  • the value for the maximum force, corresponding to the firmness of the composition is different.
  • firmness is approximately 0.2 kg
  • firmness for the composition 12-hydroxystearic acid is below 0.15 kg.
  • 10- hydroxystearic acid is preferred because the corresponding compositions are particularly firm when the manufacturing process of the invention is used.
  • compositions comprising 10-hydroxystearic acid are easily spreadable on the skin.
  • composition 451 the penetration resistance data of composition 451 is compared to the data of composition 452.
  • both compositions comprise 10-hydroxystearic acid
  • only composition 451 has been prepared according to the invention.
  • the maximum force is reached before the deepest point of penetration.
  • the maximum force is reached at the deepest point of penetration despite that compositions 451 and 452 have the same ingredients.
  • the same observation applies mutatis mutandis to compositions 453 and 454, both containing 12-hydroxystearic acid (see FIGU RE 7).
  • Examples 1, 2, 3 and 4 illustrate the importance of the manufacturing process: A composition which is easily spreadable despite of having a firm texture is achieved (i) if stirring is stopped before the respective mixture reaches room temperature and (ii) if hydroxystearic acid instead of stearic acid is used. Accordingly, a composition prepared according the claimed manufacturing process is the focus of the present invention. Such composition solves the problem underlying the present invention. A particularly firm but nonetheless easily spreadable composition is prepared when 10-hydroxystearic acid is used.
  • a cosmetic stick comprising water, at least one lipophilic ingredient and 10- hydroxystearic acid is prepared.
  • Said stick is made of composition 470.
  • a higher amount of 10-hydroxystearic acid is used in composition 470.
  • phase B adds phase B to phase A and homogenize with high shear (Ultra-Turrax ® , 13500 rpm)
  • a suitable canister which optionally has a plastic dome cap at one end continue to cool down the composition to room temperature in the canister.
  • the composition hardens, optionally forming a dome shape end inside the plastic dome cap.
  • the finished stick looks like an AP-DEO (antiperspirant-deodorant) stick. Although it is significantly softer than an AP-DEO stick, it is sufficiently solid and rigid to ensure its resistance at the time of its application. When applied to the skin, the part of the composition forming the top of the stick changes its texture/hardness and becomes easily spreadable onto the skin.
  • AP-DEO antiperspirant-deodorant

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de préparation d'une composition topique comprenant de l'acide hydroxystéarique et des compositions préparées selon ledit procédé. Les compositions peuvent être facilement étalées malgré une texture ferme. La composition peut être suffisamment ferme pour se présenter sous la forme d'un bâton cosmétique. De préférence, les acides hydroxystéariques sont l'acide 10-hydroxystéarique et l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique.
PCT/EP2018/053335 2017-02-24 2018-02-09 Composition topique à texture ferme Ceased WO2018153701A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201880013020.9A CN110381913A (zh) 2017-02-24 2018-02-09 具有牢固质地的局部用组合物
EP18703034.1A EP3585350A1 (fr) 2017-02-24 2018-02-09 Composition topique à texture ferme

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17157780.2 2017-02-24
EP17157780 2017-02-24

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2018153701A1 true WO2018153701A1 (fr) 2018-08-30

Family

ID=58185321

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2018/053335 Ceased WO2018153701A1 (fr) 2017-02-24 2018-02-09 Composition topique à texture ferme

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3585350A1 (fr)
CN (1) CN110381913A (fr)
WO (1) WO2018153701A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110314129A (zh) * 2019-07-16 2019-10-11 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 一种膏霜及其制备方法
CN110354069A (zh) * 2019-07-02 2019-10-22 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 一种油膏及其制备方法
WO2025030260A1 (fr) * 2023-08-04 2025-02-13 Elc Management Llc Nouvelle utilisation d'une composition cosmétique comprenant de l'acide 10-hydroxystéarique

Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20020137643A1 (en) * 2000-12-21 2002-09-26 Abbas Syed Husain Skin cleansing bar with high levels of liquid emollient
EP1391162A1 (fr) 2002-08-23 2004-02-25 L'oreal Récipient à élément de protection amovible, en particulier avant la première utilisation
WO2012061991A1 (fr) * 2010-11-11 2012-05-18 Unilever Plc Compositions revitalisantes pour la peau sans rinçage à l'état non solide contenant de l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique
WO2014009079A1 (fr) 2012-07-13 2014-01-16 Unilever N.V. Concentré d'aliment savoureux comprenant un gel d'amidon de pectine
WO2014095257A1 (fr) * 2012-12-20 2014-06-26 Unilever N.V. Mélanges eutectiques dans des compositions d'hygiène personnelle
US20150224050A1 (en) * 2011-05-13 2015-08-13 Mary Kay Inc. Lip Stick
WO2016059169A1 (fr) * 2014-10-17 2016-04-21 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Utilisation d'une composition cosmétique comprenant de l'acide 10-hydroxystéarique
US9539190B2 (en) 2010-05-07 2017-01-10 Conopco, Inc. Skin conditioning compositions containing 12-hydroxystearic acid

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DK0639968T3 (da) * 1992-05-12 1996-07-22 Procter & Gamble Antitranspirantgelstiftsammensætning
JP3052186B2 (ja) * 1995-01-30 2000-06-12 友幸 福田 液体油の固形化方法
GB9908212D0 (en) * 1999-04-12 1999-06-02 Unilever Plc Cosmetic compositions
US8512718B2 (en) * 2000-07-03 2013-08-20 Foamix Ltd. Pharmaceutical composition for topical application
DE10227409B4 (de) * 2002-06-14 2005-03-24 Coty B.V. Kosmetisches Gelprodukt auf Basis von Ölen und Copolymeren
US20050260150A1 (en) * 2004-05-20 2005-11-24 Inolex Investment Corp. Polyol polyester-containing personal care products that do not contain low viscosity silicone fluids
FR2993885A1 (fr) * 2012-07-27 2014-01-31 Arkema France Diamides d'acides gras comprenant des hydroxyacides steariques comme organogelateurs

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20020137643A1 (en) * 2000-12-21 2002-09-26 Abbas Syed Husain Skin cleansing bar with high levels of liquid emollient
EP1391162A1 (fr) 2002-08-23 2004-02-25 L'oreal Récipient à élément de protection amovible, en particulier avant la première utilisation
US9539190B2 (en) 2010-05-07 2017-01-10 Conopco, Inc. Skin conditioning compositions containing 12-hydroxystearic acid
WO2012061991A1 (fr) * 2010-11-11 2012-05-18 Unilever Plc Compositions revitalisantes pour la peau sans rinçage à l'état non solide contenant de l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique
US20150224050A1 (en) * 2011-05-13 2015-08-13 Mary Kay Inc. Lip Stick
WO2014009079A1 (fr) 2012-07-13 2014-01-16 Unilever N.V. Concentré d'aliment savoureux comprenant un gel d'amidon de pectine
WO2014095257A1 (fr) * 2012-12-20 2014-06-26 Unilever N.V. Mélanges eutectiques dans des compositions d'hygiène personnelle
WO2016059169A1 (fr) * 2014-10-17 2016-04-21 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Utilisation d'une composition cosmétique comprenant de l'acide 10-hydroxystéarique

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
CHHABRA, RAJENDRA P.: "Non-Newtonian Fluids: An Introduction", RHEOLOGY OF COMPLEX FLUIDS, 2010, pages 3 - 34

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110354069A (zh) * 2019-07-02 2019-10-22 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 一种油膏及其制备方法
CN110354069B (zh) * 2019-07-02 2022-08-19 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 一种油膏及其制备方法
CN110314129A (zh) * 2019-07-16 2019-10-11 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 一种膏霜及其制备方法
WO2025030260A1 (fr) * 2023-08-04 2025-02-13 Elc Management Llc Nouvelle utilisation d'une composition cosmétique comprenant de l'acide 10-hydroxystéarique

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN110381913A (zh) 2019-10-25
EP3585350A1 (fr) 2020-01-01

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
JP6807751B2 (ja) 共重合体および油性ゲル化剤
JP5850853B2 (ja) 安定化された油中グリセリン型エマルション
CN105658196B (zh) 含有细胞间脂质的多层层状液晶乳液的制备方法
JP6281744B2 (ja) 水中油型乳化化粧料
CN102378625A (zh) 皮肤外用剂
JP3933805B2 (ja) 粘性または、固形水系化粧料
BR112017005255B1 (pt) composição anidra para cuidados pessoais e método de fabricação do bastão
WO2018153701A1 (fr) Composition topique à texture ferme
JP2011213677A (ja) 油性固形化粧料
US20240041712A1 (en) Composition in the form of a stable macroscopic emulsion comprising a percentage of ingredients of natural origin that is greater than or equal to 95% according to iso standard 16128
Dano et al. Design of emulgel platforms for local propolis delivery: The influence of type and concentration of carbomer
CN113286572A (zh) 包含分散在固体连续无水相中的水性球状体的固体化妆品组合物
JP5676187B2 (ja) 水中油型化粧料
EA029421B1 (ru) Способ получения косметических композиций в виде эмульсии масло-в-воде
JP3909828B2 (ja) 固形化粧料
JP2025106489A (ja) 新規軟膏剤
KR101604972B1 (ko) 비누베이스를 포함하는 마스카라 조성물 및 이의 제조방법
TW201625222A (zh) 呈分散液形式之化妝品及／或醫藥組成物、其製備方法及其用於皮膚處理之用途
Chinnabutr et al. Characterizing the rheological properties of ethylcellulose-beeswax oleogel to enhance carotenoids stability
CN113286573A (zh) 包含分散在固体连续水相中的无水球状体的固体化妆品组合物
CN102083407A (zh) 油性固体状化妆品
JP6536375B2 (ja) オイルゲル化粧料
US11964044B2 (en) Phase change cosmetic composition
JP2005089415A (ja) 固形状油性化粧料
JP3786613B2 (ja) ゲル状組成物および化粧料

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 18703034

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2018703034

Country of ref document: EP

Effective date: 20190924