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WO2017071822A1 - Composition de soin de la peau et méthode associée - Google Patents

Composition de soin de la peau et méthode associée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017071822A1
WO2017071822A1 PCT/EP2016/025126 EP2016025126W WO2017071822A1 WO 2017071822 A1 WO2017071822 A1 WO 2017071822A1 EP 2016025126 W EP2016025126 W EP 2016025126W WO 2017071822 A1 WO2017071822 A1 WO 2017071822A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
skin
ascorbic acid
acid
substituted
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2016/025126
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English (en)
Inventor
Paul James Tomlinson
Michael David Bell
Aneshkumar Dineshchandra SITARAM
Judata Iskandar Darma WIBAWA
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Boots Co PLC
Original Assignee
Boots Co PLC
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Boots Co PLC filed Critical Boots Co PLC
Publication of WO2017071822A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017071822A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Definitions

  • the disclosed technology relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising: an O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof; a matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor; and hibiscus or a peptide, wherein the composition comprises an aqueous phase present at up to 95 wt % of the composition.
  • the disclosed technology further relates to the use and method of improving skin firmness, or reduced skin sagging with the composition.
  • Aging is a multifactorial phenomenon.
  • the aging phenomenon may be due to one or more of genetic predisposition (known as chronological aging) and one's physiological reaction to environmental stresses (sometimes referred to as actinic aging).
  • Actinic aging appears skin specific and is defined as the effect of the external environment on the skin's biological response.
  • the skin response to actinic aging which may be caused by sun and pollution exposure, as well as smoking, is typically associated with a lack of normal hydration, apparition of telangiectasia (spider veins), sagging of the skin, and/or reduced firmness of the skin. With sagging or reduced firmness the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles occurs.
  • the sagging or reduced skin firmness may be explained by the fact that the elastic fibers of the dermal extracellular matrix, forming the support and conferring elasticity and strength to the skin are destroyed and become rare with age.
  • the colour of the skin is another large contributor to a person's appearance and an uneven skin tone with visible or tactile discontinuities and puffiness are perceived as older unhealthier looking skin.
  • the skin may have a degree of darkening or black circles. Many people are concerned with the degree of pigmentation of their skin and may wish to reduce darkening, or even lighten their 'natural' skin colour.
  • WO2010/136965 (Fournial et al, published 2 December 2010) relates to dipeptide of formula Rl-Tyr-Arg-R2 for use as a cosmetic active compound in order to treat and/or prevent cutaneous sagging, wherein Rl and R2 are defined groups in WO2010/136965.
  • WO2012/154949 (Florence et al., published 15 November 2012) relates to promoting the production of hyaluronic acid in skin; and promoting the synthesis of fibronectin and laminin in skin by employing a composition comprising a number of ingredients including an effective amount of tripeptide-1 to promote the production of fibronectin and laminin in skin.
  • WO2010/085532 (Ha et al, published 29 July 2010), and WO2011/017274 (Roth, published 10 February 2011) relate to compositions comprising one or more peptides for skin firming or wrinkle reduction.
  • WO2008/130752 (Faller et al, published 30 October 2008) relates to a composition comprising a peptide, and the composition can be used to treat skin to treat aged or environmentally damaged skin which can include the appearance fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, increased sagging, loss of firmness, loss of color evenness or tone, coarse surface texture, and mottled pigmentation. Reducing eye sagginess is exemplified.
  • EP 1795181 B (Potin, published 4 December 2006) relates to the use of a combination of a niacinamide and a tyrosine-arginine dipetide of a given formula to prevent or decrease red blotches and/or puffiness of skin.
  • WO2012/125183 (Daly et al, published 20 September 2012) relates to the use of at least one extract from the Anogeissus genus for treating skin by producing fibrillin and thereby increasing skin elasticity.
  • WO2012/143364 (Doucet et al, published 26 October 2012) relates to a cosmetic composition for use in increasing the collagen synthesis in skin comprising 0.001 - 0.5 wt% of a Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract; 0.00001 - 2.0 wt% of Dimer Tripeptide-43 or Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, the concentrations being related to the total weight of the composition; and cosmetic auxiliaries or mixtures thereof up to a total of 100 wt% of the composition.
  • WO2006/069608 (Montanari et al, published 6 July 2006) relates to a composition for skin application suitable for relaxing expression wrinkles which combines a selected active peptide component with a decontracting or relaxing action on the muscular fiber with a micro - element which reduces the muscular contraction level by acting directly or indirectly on a muscular fiber component.
  • US 5,723,482 (Degwert et al, published 3 March 1998) and WO2005/049054 (Grigg, published 2 June 2005) relates to a composition comprising a carnosine (beta-alanyl-L- histidine) useful for treating damaged skin.
  • British Application GB 1408079.0 (Tomlinson et al, filed 7 May 2014), then PCT filed PCT/GB2014/051496 (15 May 2014) relates to a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a water phase having less than 60 wt % water, and the water phase comprises a dipeptide.
  • PCT filed PCT/GB2014/051489 (15 May 2014) relates to a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a water phase having less than 60 wt % water, and the water phase comprises a matrix matalloproteinase inhibitor and a skin conditioning agent.
  • WO2008/134712 (Yu et al, published 6 November 2008) relates to cosmetic method of skin care, the method comprising steps of: applying to the skin of a subject a cosmetically effective amount of a matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibitor in a cosmetically suitable vehicle in order to improve the appearance of skin, wherein the MMP inhibitor based upon cyclic compounds having a cyclic group based upon formulae and the formulae comprise a pyran, a lactam, or a piperidine constituent.
  • MMP matrix metalloproteinase
  • the cosmetic may be useful to prevent or reduce the appearance of the following cosmetic attributes: coarse wrinkles, fine wrinkles, lines, sagging, pigmentation changes, mottled hyperpigmentation, lentigines, tactile roughness, telangiectasia, pore size, elastosis, laxity, and redness.
  • MMP matrix metalloprotease
  • US2006/0074108 (Gupta, published 6 April 2006) relates to compounds that are selective inhibitors of Matrix Metalloprotease to cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions, and the MMP compounds comprise one hydroxyaryl or polyhydroxyaryl compound.
  • composition comprising: a matrix metalloprotease inhibitor component; a tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteases inducing agent; and an antioxidant comprising at least one natural extract.
  • US2007/0042064 (Leverett et al, published 22 February 2007) relates to a composition comprising extracts of Durio zibethinus.
  • the composition also allows for a method of inhibiting the induction of matrix metalloproteinase-9, and for lightening or evening skin tone.
  • WO2012/145748 (Florence et al., published 26 October 2012) relates to a composition that includes a first MMP-1 inhibitor, wherein said first inhibitor is an extract from Burretiodendron hsienmu, a second MMP-1 inhibitor, wherein said second inhibitor is an extract from Bauhinia brachycarpa var. cavaleriei, and a third MMP-1 inhibitor, wherein said third inhibitor is an extract from Tetracentron sinense.
  • US 8,460,721 (Rival et al, published 11 June 2013) relates to active ingredient comprising 0.1 and 5 wt % of at least one extract of Hibiscus abelmoschus and 0.1 and 5 wt % a soy extract containing at least peptides wherein the Hibiscus abelmoschus extract.
  • the disclosed technology may be used to decrease or prevent at least one of the following forming wrinkles or fine lines, skin sagging, or hyperpigmentation (such as solar lentigines), or increasing skin firmness or skin laxity.
  • the disclosed technology additionally provides whitening/lightening/even tone to skin.
  • the transitional term "comprising,” which is synonymous with “including,” “containing,” or “characterized by,” is inclusive or open-ended and does not exclude additional, un-recited elements or method steps.
  • the term also encompass, as alternative embodiments, the phrases “consisting essentially of and “consisting of,” where “consisting of excludes any element or step not specified and “consisting essentially of permits the inclusion of additional un-recited elements or steps that do not materially affect the basic, essential and novel characteristics of the composition, method or use under consideration.
  • treat rates are on a weight basis relative to the total composition disclosed herein.
  • the disclosed technology relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising: an O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof; a matrix metalloprotemase inhibitor; and hibiscus and/or a peptide, wherein the composition comprises an aqueous phase present at up to 95 wt %, or up to 90 wt % of the composition.
  • the composition may be an emulsion or gel.
  • the composition when the composition is an emulsion, the composition may be an emulsion comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase present at up to 90 wt % of the composition.
  • the composition when the composition is a gel, the composition further comprises a thickener.
  • the disclosed technology relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising an O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof, a matrix metalloprotemase inhibitor, and hibiscus, wherein the composition comprises an aqueous phase present at up to 95 wt %, or up to 90 wt % of the composition.
  • the disclosed technology relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising an O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof, a matrix metalloprotemase inhibitor, and a peptide, wherein the composition comprises an aqueous phase present at up to 95 wt %, or up to 90 wt % of the composition.
  • the disclosed technology relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising an O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof, a matrix metalloprotemase inhibitor, hibiscus and a peptide, wherein the composition comprises an aqueous phase present at up to 95 wt %, or up to 90 wt % of the composition.
  • the disclosed technology relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising: an O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof; a matrix metalloprotemase inhibitor; and hibiscus and/or a peptide, wherein the composition is an emulsion comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase present at up to 90 wt % of the composition.
  • the disclosed technology relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising: an O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof; a thickener, a matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor; and hibiscus and/or a peptide, wherein the composition is a gel and the aqueous phase present at up to 95 wt % of the composition.
  • composition disclosed herein in one embodiment further comprises a whitening/lightening agent.
  • composition may be in the form of a cream, lotion or serum, typically a serum.
  • the disclosed technology relate to the cosmetic use of a composition disclosed herein (typically a skin care composition).
  • the disclosed technology relate to a method of decreasing or preventing at least one of the following forming wrinkles or fine lines, skin sagging, or hyperpigmentation (such as solar lentigines), or increasing skin firmness or skin laxity comprising supplying to skin the composition disclosed herein.
  • the disclosed technology relate to the use of the composition disclosed herein to decrease or prevent at least one of the following forming wrinkles or fine lines, skin sagging, or hyperpigmentation (such as solar lentigines), or increasing skin firmness or skin laxity of skin.
  • skin is a mammalian skin such as human skin.
  • the O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof may be an 0-alk(en)yl ascorbic acid or derivative thereof.
  • alk(en)yl is intended to mean alkyl or alkenyl (typically alkyl).
  • the alk(en)yl may be acyclic or cyclic, typically acyclic.
  • the acyclic group may be linear or branched, typically linear.
  • the O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof may be an O-alkyl ascorbic acid, or derivative thereof.
  • O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof is known in the art, and described in EP Patent application EP2722043 Al, and US 2014/0155633 (both Lin et al, Applicant Coram).
  • O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof may be represented by the formula:
  • R 1 and R 2 groups may independently be H, CI -20 alkyl, C3-20 cycloalkyl, CI -20 alkoxy, C2-20 acyl, C6-20 aryl, CI -20 heterocyclic aromatic, CI -20 heterocyclic non- aromatic, or C3-20 cycloalkenyl.
  • the O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof may have a substituted group that may be hydrocarbon in nature i.e., composed on carbon and hydrogen.
  • R 1 and R 2 groups may independently be H, CI -20 alkyl, C3-20 cycloalkyl, C6- 20 aryl, or C3-20 cycloalkenyl.
  • the O-substituted ascorbic acid may be 3 -alkyl ascorbic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • the alkyl group may be a Cl-20, or Cl-10, or C2-8, or C2-4.
  • the O-substituted ascorbic acid may be 3 -ethyl ascorbic acid.
  • the O-substituted ascorbic acid may be present at 0.001 to 5 wt %, or 0.01 to 3 wt %, or 0.1 to 2 wt % of the composition.
  • the Hibiscus may be Hibiscus sabdariffa, Hibiscus rosa sinensis or Hibiscus Abelmoschus (may also be known as Abelmoschus moschatus).
  • the Hibiscus may be in the form of an extract. All three Hibiscus plants are known to form extracts used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the hibiscus may be Hibiscus Abelmoschus, typically Hibiscus Abelmoschus extract.
  • the extract may be obtained from the Hibiscus Abelmoschus leaf, seed or root, typically the root.
  • the solvent for extraction and/or putting back into suspension may be any polar solvent as long as it makes it possible to obtain essentially all the active compounds in an aqueous extract in order to provide the properties desired within the context of the disclosed technology.
  • the Hibiscus Abelmoschus extract may be an aqueous extract, typically obtained by extraction at ambient temperature (around 20° C to 30° C) or at a temperature from 35° C to 80° C.
  • the extraction may utilise a hydroalcoholic, or typically a hydroglycolic solvent to produce an extract of Hibiscus Abelmoschus.
  • a hydroalcoholic or typically a hydroglycolic solvent
  • an extraction solvent of the water/glycol type is typical.
  • a water/butylene glycol mixture is often utilised.
  • a water/methanol or water/ethanol solvent may by typical.
  • the proportions of the water/alcohol mixture, typically water/glycol mixture may vary but may range from 10/90 and 90/10, and for example between 50/50 and 80/15.
  • the Hibiscus extract may be obtained from 1 to 10% of the plant or part of the plant in the dry state relative to the weight of the total solution.
  • the Hibiscus extract may be used in an amount from 0.1 to 10 wt %, or 1 to 5 wt % of the composition. In one embodiment the disclosed technology comprises 3 to 5 wt % of the Hibiscus extract.
  • the Hibiscus extract may comprise 1 to 10 wt %, or 2 to 6 wt % of plant extract, and 90 to 99 wt %, or 94 to 98 wt % of aqueous solution or in the hydroalcoholic solution.
  • Hibiscus Abelmoschus is described for example in US 8,460,721.
  • the Hibiscus Abelmoschus extract may be in a dry form, especially a freeze-dried form, or in suspension in an aqueous solution or in the hydroalcoholic solution.
  • the Hibiscus Abelmoschus extract may contain 5 main amino acids which are arginine, alanine, valine, leucine and isoleucine, which each represent at least 5%, or 6%, or more than 6% of the total amino acids of the extract.
  • Peptides are defined as compounds comprising an uninterrupted sequence of amino acids.
  • a dipeptide comprises an uninterrupted sequence of two amino acids.
  • Amino acids, as employed herein, include and encompass all of the naturally occurring amino acids, either in D or L configuration. Amino acids are commonly indicated with reference to the conventional three letter code and the sequence is read from left to right.
  • composition of the disclosed technology may comprise a dipeptide chosen from acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester, acetyl dipeptide 3 aminohexanoate, azelaoyl bisdipeptide 10, coumaroyl dipeptide 3, dicetyl dipeptide 9, dipeptide diamino butyroyl benzylamide diacetate, dipeptide 1, dipeptide 10, dipeptide 11, dipeptide 12, dipeptide 15, dipeptide 16, dipeptide 17, dipeptide 18, dipeptide 19, dipeptide 2, dipeptide 20, dipeptide 3, dipeptide 4, dipeptide 5, dipeptide 6, dipeptide 7, dipeptide 8, dipeptide 8 HCL, dipeptide 9, hexanoyl dipeptide 3 norleucine acetate, methyl undecylenoyl dipeptide 16, nicotinoyl dipeptide 22, nicotinoyl dipeptide 23, nicotinoyl dipeptide 24, nicotinoyl dipeptide
  • composition of the disclosed technology comprises a peptide that may be a dipeptide, wherein said amino acid sequences of said dipeptide may be chosen from Tyr-Arg, Tyr-Val, Ala-Glu, Val-Trp, Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe and mixtures thereof.
  • the dipeptide may be chosen from Trp-Val (tryptophan- valine), Ala-Glu (alanine-glutamine), Tyr- Arg peptide (tyrosine-argenine) and mixtures thereof.
  • the dipeptide may be N- Acetyl Tyr-Arg -1 cetyl ester.
  • the dipeptide may be incorporated into the composition of the disclosed technology at a level of from 0.1 to 50000 ppm, or from 1 to 5000 ppm, or from 10 to 500 ppm.
  • the dipeptide may be present at 0.1 to 50000 ppm, or 1 to 5000 ppm, or 10 to 500 ppm, or 100 to 200 ppm.
  • the composition of the disclosed technology also comprises one or more additional peptides.
  • the additional peptide may be chosen from a tripeptide, tetrapeptide, pentapeptide and mixtures thereof.
  • tripeptide it is meant compound comprising an uninterrupted sequence of three amino acids.
  • tetrapeptide it is meant a compound comprising an uninterrupted sequence of four amino acids.
  • pentapeptide it is meant a compound comprising an uninterrupted sequence of five amino acids.
  • composition of the disclosed technology may comprise a tripeptide, or mixtures thereof.
  • the tripeptide may be naturally occurring or of synthetic origin. Suitable tripeptide compounds include tripeptide 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 ,29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36 ,37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the tripeptide comprise one or more His-based tripeptides.
  • Another suitable tripeptide may be Arg-Lys-Arg.
  • a typical tripeptide may be based on the structure Gly-His- Lys and its analogs and derivatives thereof. These are collectively known herein as a GHK- tripeptide.
  • the tripeptide has this exact sequence of amino acids.
  • Analogs of the tripeptide useful herein include those in which one or more of the three amino acids are reorganized or rearranged within the sequence, such as Gly-Lys-His; and/or where no more than two amino acids are substituted, such as, His-Ala-Orn.
  • Amino acids substituted for Gly include an aliphatic side chain such as, beta-Ala, Ala,
  • amino acids substituted for Gly include are Ala, Leu and He.
  • Typical amino acids substituted for Lys or His include those having a side chain that includes, predominantly, a charged nitrogen at a pH of 6, such as, Pro, Lys, Arg, His, Desmosine and Isodesmosine. Typically Lys may be replaced with Orn, Arg, or Citrulline.
  • Derivatives are also considered to be encompassed by the term GHK-tripeptide in accordance with the disclosed technology, (and therefore also the more generic term tripeptides).
  • Derivatives of GHK-tripeptide in accordance with the disclosed technology include derivatives of the substituted and rearranged tripeptides described herein.
  • acyl-derivatives which are tripeptides substituted with one or more straight-chain or branched-chain, long or short chain, saturated or unsaturated, substituted with a hydroxy, amino, acyl amino, sulphate or sulphide group, or unsubstituted, which may be derived from acetic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, octanoic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lipoic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, elaidoic acid, 2-ethylhexaneic acid, coconut oil fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, hardened tallow fatty acid, palm kernel oil fatty acid, and lanolin fatty acid.
  • acyl group examples include an acetyl group, a palmitoyl group, an elaidoyl group, a myristyl group, a biotinyl group and an octanoyl group. These may be substituted or unsubstituted. When substituted, they are typically substituted with hydroxyl or sulphur comprising groups such as, SOsH, SH or S-S.
  • the His-based tripeptide includes at least one Histadine amino acid.
  • the other two amino acids in the sequence may be the same or different.
  • contemplated are His-Xaa- Xaa, His-Xaa-Xbb, His-Xbb-Xaa, Xbb-His-Xbb, Xbb-His-Xaa, Xaa-His-Xbb, Xaa-Xaa-His, Xaa-Xbb-His, Xbb-Xaa-His and Xbb-Xbb-His, where Xaa and Xbb are two different amino acids, although either may be His.
  • At least one of the other amino acids may be Gly, beta-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) or He.
  • at least one of the other amino acids is Pro, Lys, Arg, His, Desmosine and Isodesmosine. Lys may be replaced with Orn, Arg, or Citrulline. Derivatives are also considered to be encompassed by the term His-based tripeptide in accordance with the disclosed technology, (and therefore also the more generic term tripeptides).
  • acyl-derivatives which are tripeptides substituted with one or more straight-chain or branched-chain, long or short chain, saturated or unsaturated substituted or unsubstituted acyl group(s) having from 1 to 29 carbon atoms.
  • the acyl groups which may be used are the same as those described for the GHK- tripeptide.
  • the tripeptide may include N-Acyl-Gly-His-Lys, or typically N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His- Lys.
  • Commercially available tripeptide and tripeptide derivative comprising compositions include Biopeptide-CL® from SEDERMA, Maxilip® from SEDERMA, Biobustyl® from SEDERMA.
  • the tripetptide may include tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine .
  • the tripeptide of the disclosed technology when present may be used in amounts from 0.10 ppm to 10,000 ppm, or 0.50 ppm to 5,000 ppm, or lppm to 1000 ppm, or from lppm to 500 ppm.
  • composition further comprises a tripeptide and it may be present at 0.1 to 5000 ppm, or 0.5 to 500 ppm, or 1 to 200 ppm, or 1 to 20 ppm.
  • composition s of the disclosed technology may further comprise a tetrapeptide.
  • the tetrapeptide may be one or more Rigin®-based tetrapeptides, one or more ALAMCAT- tetrapeptides or mixtures thereof.
  • the tetrapeptide may be naturally occurring or of synthetic origin.
  • Suitable tetrapeptides for use in the present composition include those chosen from tetrapeptide 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 34, 35, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • Rigin-based tetrapeptides of the disclosed technology may be based on the structure Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin) and include its analogs and derivatives thereof. Rigin is a typical tetrapeptide. Analogs of the tetrapeptide rigin useful with the disclosed technology include those in which one or more of the four amino acids are reorganized or rearranged within the sequence and/or where no more than two of the amino acids are substituted such as Ala-Gln- Thr-Arg.
  • At least one of the amino acids within the sequence may be Pro or Arg.
  • the tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg although their order and position may vary.
  • the amino acid substitutions may be from amongst any amino acid as defined herein.
  • the rigin- based tetrapeptide may include Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, or Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, wherein Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, Xaa, Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different and selected from the following Xaa is Gly or the amino acids that may be substituted therefore, Xbb is Gin or the amino acids that may be substituted therefore and Xcc may be Pro or Arg or the amino acids substituted therefore.
  • the amino acids substituted for Gly include an aliphatic side chain such as, beta-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and He.
  • the amino acids substituted for Gin include a side chain that includes an amine group that is predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7) such as, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5- hydroxyproline, Citrulline and Canavanine.
  • Arg When Arg is substituted, it may be replaced with an amino acid having a side chain that includes, predominantly, a charged nitrogen at a pH of 6, such as, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosine and Isodesmosine.
  • Derivatives are also considered to be encompassed by the term rigin-base tetrapeptide in accordance with the disclosed technology, (and therefore also the more generic term tetrapeptide).
  • Derivatives include derivatives of the substituted and rearranged rigin -based tetrapeptide described herein. These derivatives include, inter alia, acyl-derivatives, which are tetrapeptide substituted with one or more straight-chain or branched-chain, long or short chain, saturated or unsaturated, substituted with a hydroxy, amino, amino acyl, sulphate or sulphide group or unsubstituted having from 1 to 29 carbon atoms.
  • N-acyl-derivatives include those acyl groups which may be derived from acetic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, octanoic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lipoic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, elaidoic acid, 2-ethylhexaneic acid, coconut oil fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, hardened tallow fatty acid, palm kernel oil fatty acid, lanolin fatty acid and the like.
  • acyl group examples include an acetyl group, a palmitoyl group, an elaidoyl group, a myristyl group, a biotinyl group and an octanoyl group. These may be substituted or unsubstituted. When substituted, they may be substituted with hydroxyl or sulphur comprising groups such as SO3H, SH or S-S.
  • the tetrapeptide may be an ALAMCAT tetrapeptide which includes at least one amino acid having an aliphatic group side chain. These amino acids include, Gly, beta-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Sarcosine (Sar) and He.
  • the tetrapeptide of this type also includes at least one amino acid including at least one -NH 2 comprising side chain. This amino acid may include a side chain that has an amine group that is predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7) such as, Gin, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, Citrulline and Canavanine.
  • the ALAMCAT - tetrapeptide also includes at least one amino acid having at least one side chain including at least one cationic amine (predominant species is charged such as -NH3+, >NH 2 + -basic amino acids which are positively charged at pH 6.0). These amino acids include, Pro, Arg, Lys, His, Desmosine and Isodesmosine. The remaining amino acid may be any amino acid, typically one comprising an alphatic group, pendant amino group or pendant cationic group. Derivatives are also considered to be encompassed by the term ALAMCAT -tetrapeptide in accordance with the disclosed technology, (and therefore also the more generic term tetrapeptide).
  • acyl-derivatives which are tetrapeptide substituted with one or more straight-chain or branched-chain, substituted or unsubstituted long or short chain, saturated or unsaturated acyl group(s) having from 1 to 29 carbon atoms.
  • the acyl groups which may be used are the same as those described for the rigin-based tetrapeptide.
  • a typical tetrapeptide may include Peptide E, arg-ser-arg-lys, N-acyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg; and in one embodiment N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.
  • tetrapeptide includes RIGIN®, EYELISS®, Haloxyl, and MATRIXYL®3000, which comprise between palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, and other ingredients, such as peptides, chalcones and an excipient, commercially available from SEDERMA, France. Tego Pep 417 available from Evonik.
  • the tetrapeptide of the disclosed technology may be used in amounts from 0.1 ppm to 10,000 ppm or 0.5 ppm to 1000 ppm, or from 1 ppm to 500 ppm of the composition. In one embodiment the tetrapeptide may be present at 1 to 50 ppm.
  • the composition disclosed herein may comprise combination of a tripeptide and tetrapeptide.
  • the typical ratio of tetrapeptide to tripeptide, or indeed the ratio of molecules having four amino acids to those having three amino acids may range from 100: 1 to 1 : 100; from 50: 1 to 1 :50, or from 30: 1 to 1 :30, or from 10: 1 to 1 :10.
  • the ratio of tetrapeptide to tripeptide may range from between 3: 1 to 1 :3. These ratios are on a weight basis.
  • the amount of tripeptide used may be greater than the amount of tetrapeptide used when considered in terms of their amounts in parts per million, again based on overall weight of the composition.
  • composition of the disclosed technology may comprise a tetrapeptide of the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, its analogs and derivatives in combination with one or more tripeptide of the sequences Gly-His-Lys, its analogs and derivatives.
  • compositions of the disclosed technology may optionally comprise a pentapeptide, derivatives of thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • pentapeptide refers to both the naturally occurring pentapeptide and synthesized pentapeptide. Also useful herein are naturally occurring and commercially available compositions that comprise pentapeptides. Suitable pentapeptides are those chosen from pentapeptide 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • the pentapeptide may include lys-thr-thr-lys-ser, Arg-asp-lys-tyr-val (pentapeptide -1) and derivatives thereof.
  • a commercially available pentapeptide derivative-comprising composition is Matrixyl of palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser and is commercially available from Sederma, France.
  • the pentapeptide when present in the composition disclosed herein may be present at 0.001 to 2 wt %, or 0.005 to 1.5 wt %, or 0.01 to 1 wt % of the composition.
  • the peptide may be chosen from a tri-, tetra-, or penta- peptide and present at 0.1 to 5000 ppm, or 0.5 to 500 ppm, or 1 to 200 ppm, or 1 to 20 ppm.
  • composition of disclosed herein comprises a peptide mixture of: a di-peptide and a peptide chosen from a tri-, tetra-, and/or penta- peptide.
  • the dipeptide When in the form of a mixture: the dipeptide may be present at 0.1 to 50000 ppm, or 1 to 5000 ppm, or 10 to 500 ppm, or 100 to 200 ppm; and the peptide may be chosen from a tri-, and/or tetra- peptide and present at 0.1 to 5000 ppm, or 0.5 to 500 ppm, or 1 to 200 ppm, or 1 to 20 ppm.
  • MMPi Matrix Metalloproteinase Inhibitor
  • matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor relates to all molecule and/or plant or bacterial extracts having an inhibitory activity on at least one of the matrix metalloproteinases expressed, synthetized or activated by or in the skin.
  • the family of the matrix metalloproteinases is formed of several well-defined groups on the basis of their resemblance regarding structure and substrate specificity (Woessner J. F., Faseb Journal, vol. 5, 1991, 2145).
  • collagenases able to degrade fibrillar collagens MMP- 1 or interstitial collagenase, MMP-8 or neutrophil collagenase, MMP-13 or collagenase 3, MMP-18 or collagenase 4
  • gelatinases degrading type IV collagen or other denatured collagen form MMP-2 or A gelatinase (72 kDa), MMP-9 or B gelatinase (92 kDa)
  • stromelysins MMP-3 or stromelysin 1, MMP- 10 or stromelysin 2, MMP-11 or stromelysin 3
  • proteins of the extracellular matrix such as glycoproteins (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycanes, matrilysin (MMP-7), metalloelastase (MMP- 12) or metalloproteinases (MMP- 14, MMP- 15, MMP- 16 and MMP- 17).
  • MMPs Metalloproteinases
  • the principal activity regulators of MMPs are the tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases or TIMPs such TIMP-I, TIMP-2, TIMP- 3 and TIMP-4 (Woessner J. F., Faseb Journal, 1991).
  • TIMPs tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases
  • TIMPs tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases
  • the MMPs expression is also regulated by growth factors, cytokins, oncogens products (ras, jun), or also matrix constituents.
  • matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors means all molecules able to reduce the MMPs activity regarding the gene expression (transcription and translation) or regarding the activation of the zymogen form of MMPs, or else regarding the local control of active forms.
  • the metalloproteinase inhibitors according to the present invention can also be MMP-1 inhibitors of natural or synthetic origin.
  • natural origin or “synthetic origin” mean both a metalloproteinase inhibitor at a pure state or in solution at different concentrations, but natural origin termed inhibitors are obtained by different extraction methods from a natural element (for example lycopene from a tomato) whereas the inhibitors of synthetic origin are all obtained via chemical synthesis
  • the composition disclosed herein comprises an MMPi.
  • MMPi are chosen from retinoid, N-acetyl cysteine, glutathione, 2-furildioxime, vitamin C (other than the O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof), hydrolysed rice protein, alfalfa extract, white lupin, zizyphus jujube extract, kudzu extract, vitis vinifera extract, Oenothera biennis extract Anogeissus leiocarpus extract and mixtures thereof.
  • the MMPi are exclusively chosen from retinoid, N-acetyl cysteine, glutathione, 2-furildioxime, vitamin C (other than the O-substituted ascorbic acid or derivative thereof), hydrolysed rice protein, alfalfa extract, white lupin, zizyphus jujube extract, kudzu extract, vitis vinifera extract, Oenothera biennis extract Anogeissus leiocarpus extract and mixtures thereof.
  • the MMPi may be hydrolysed rice protein.
  • the hydrolysed rice protein may be derived Oryza Sativa, or Oryza Punctata.
  • the MMPi may be present at a level of from 0.01 to 10 wt%, or 0.1 to 5 wt %, or 0.25 to 2.5 wt %, or 0.5 to 1 wt % of the composition.
  • the composition disclosed herein further comprises a whitening/lightening agent.
  • the composition further comprises the whitening/lightening agent it may be present at 0.001 to 10 wt %, or 0.01 to 5 wt %, or 0.1 to 2 wt %, or 0.2 to 1 wt % of the composition.
  • the whitening/lightening agent may be present at 0.001 to 3 wt %, or 0.01 to 2 wt %, or 0.05 to 1 wt %, or 0.1 to 0.5 wt % of the composition.
  • the whitening/lightening may include at least one of the following ingredients: emblica, Mulberry leaf extract, mangostin, Sophora, a flavonoid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid (i.e., Radianskin®) and a chromane such as dimethylmethoxy chromanol.
  • the whitening/lightening agent may be a mixture of ingredients chosen from: emblica, and an antioxidant chosen from Mulberry leaf extract, mangostin, Sophora, a flavonoid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid and a chromane.
  • the whitening/lightening agent may be a mixture of ingredients chosen from: emblica and Sophora, optionally in the presence of Mulberry leaf extract. Typically the Mulberry leaf extract may be present.
  • the emblica may be emblica officinalis, typically comprises: over 40% by weight of emblica (typically 50-80 wt %) of Emblicanin A, Emblicanin B, Pedunculagin and Punigluconin, and not more than about 1% by weight of flavonoids.
  • the emblica may be Phyllanthus emblica.
  • the Sophora may be an extract of a small tree, and shrub in the pea family Fabaceae.
  • the Sophora may be Sophora Angustifolia root Extract, a Sophora flavescens root extract, a Sophora Alopecuroides Extract, or a Sophora japonica extract.
  • the Sophora Angustifolia root Extract may be an extract of the roots of the Chinese Sophora, Sophora angustifolia, or Leguminosae.
  • Sophora may be derived from Sophora Angustifolia root Extract or a Sophora flavescens root extract.
  • the emblica may be Phyllanthus emblica; and Sophora may be derived from Sophora Angustifolia root Extract or a Sophora flavescens root extract.
  • the flavonoid species is believed to have antioxidant performance, and be an antioxidant plant polyphenolic agent.
  • antioxidant plant polyphenolic agent we mean a plant extract, or derivative thereof, comprising flavonoid species, including flavones, flavonols, flavanones, flavanols anthrocyanidins and isoflavonoids; phenolic acid species; stilbenes; lignans and mixtures thereof, which provide an antioxidant benefit.
  • Antioxidant benefit is measured using the total antioxidant capacity (TAC) assay described herein. Plants provide a rich source of polyphenolic agents, and are therefore an efficient source of said antioxidants. Similar actives may be prepared synthetically and as such are analogues of said plant polyphenolic agents.
  • Antioxidant polyphenolic agents may include extracts from plants chosen from Mulberry (e.g. morus alba), Ginseng (e.g. Panax ginseng), Raspberry, Oregano (e.g. origanum vulgare), Green tea (e.g. green leaves of camellia sinensis), White tea (e.g. camellia sinensis), Blueberry extract (e.g. vaccinium cyanococcus), French maritime pine bark (e.g. pinus pinaster, sold under the tradename Pycnogenol) , Rosemary (e.g. rosmarinus officialis), Grape, including grape seed (e.g. vitis vinifera), Fennel (e.g.
  • nymphaea alba Turmeric root
  • Marshmallow e.g. althaea officianlis
  • Burdock e.g. arctium lappa
  • Bilberry e.g. vaccinium myrtillus
  • Cranberry e.g. vaccinium oxycoccus
  • Pomegranate nectar e.g. Punica granatum
  • Sage e.g. salvia officinalis
  • Thyme e.g. thymus vulgaris
  • Sunflower e.g. helianthus annuus
  • wild carrot e.g. daucus carota
  • Hop e.g. humulus lupulus
  • Witch Hazel e.g.
  • hamamelis hamamelis
  • Oak e.g. Quercus
  • Camellia e.g. theacea
  • Red clover e.g. tritolium pratense
  • Flax e.g. linium usitatissimum
  • lemon e.g. citrus limon
  • birch e.g. betula
  • cornflower e.g. centaurea cyanus
  • polygonum e.g. glycine max
  • soy e.g. glycine max
  • the antioxidant polypenolic agent may be an extract from a plant chosen from mulberry, ginseng, grape, oregano, grape, sage, sunflower, maritime pine bark, rosemary, marjoram, crocus, french saffron, wild carrot, hop, coffee, green coffee, witch hazel, oak, camellia, red clover, flax, ginger, magnolia, edelweiss, burdock and mixtures thereof.
  • the chromane may be chosen from: methyl, di-, tri- and tetra- C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 alkoxy chromanol; pentamethyl chromanol, methyl, di, tri and tetra C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 alkoxy chromanyl C14-C20 ester and mixtures thereof.
  • the chromane may be chosen dimethyl methoxy chromanol, tetramethyl methoxy chromanol, pentamethyl chromanol, dimethyl methoxy chomanyl palmitate, dialkyl methoxy chomanyl myristate, dimethyl methoxy chromanyl stearate, dimethyl methoxy chomanyl oleate, dimethyl methoxy chomanyl linoleate and mixtures thereof.
  • the chromane may be dimethyl methoxy chromanol (commercially available under the tradename Lipochroman 6 as sold by Lipotec).
  • the composition of the present invention may optionally comprise a skin conditioning agent.
  • the skin conditioning agents may be chosen from humectants, emollients, moisturisers, or mixtures thereof. Where present, the skin conditioning agent may be present from 0.01 to 20 wt %, or 0.1 to 10 wt %, or 0.5 to 7 wt % of the composition.
  • the skin conditioning agents may be chosen from guanidine, urea, glycolic acid and glycolate salts, salicylic acid, lactic acid and lactate salts, aloe vera, shea butter, polyhydroxy alcohols, such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, glycerol, hexanetriol, butanitriol, (di) propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sugars (e.g.
  • fructose glucose, xylose, honey, mannose, xylose
  • gluconodeltalactone and starches and their derivatives, pyrrolidone, carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, lactamide monoethanolamine, acetamide monoethanolamine, panthenol, allantoin and mixtures thereof.
  • the skin conditioning agent may be chosen from glycerine, arabinoglactan, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, shea butter, propylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerine, hyaluronate and mixtures thereof.
  • Salicylic Acid Compound may be chosen from glycerine, arabinoglactan, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, shea butter, propylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerine, hyaluronate and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions disclosed herein may optionally comprise a salicylic acid compound, its esters, its salts, or combinations thereof.
  • a salicylic acid compound at 0.0001 to 25 wt %, or 0.001 to 15 wt %, or 0.01 to 10 wt %, or 0.1 to 5 wt %, and or 0.01 to 2 wt% of the composition, of salicylic acid.
  • the salicylic acid compound may be salicylic acid.
  • composition of the present invention may optionally comprise a sunscreen component.
  • the sunscreen may comprise organic or inorganic sun filters or a combination of the two.
  • Suitable inorganic sunfilters include those chosen from micro fine titanium dioxide, and microfine zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable organic sunscreens include those chosen from: a) p-aminobenzoic acids, their esters and derivatives (for example, 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate), b) methoxycinnamate esters (for example, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl p- methoxycinnamate or a, p-di- (p-methoxycinnamoyl)-a'- (2ethylhexanoyl)-glycerin, c) benzophenones (for example oxybenzone), d) dibenzoylmethanes such as 4- (tert-butyl)-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane, e) 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulphonic acid and its salts, f) alkyl- ss, ss-diphenylacrylates
  • sunscreen ingredients include those chosen from homosalate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Diethylhexylbutamido triazone, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Methylene bis-benzotriazoyl tetramethylbutylphenol, Polysilicone-15 and mixtures thereof.
  • a sunscreening agent may be present from 0 to 10 wt %, or 0.1 to 10 wt % of the composition.
  • Other Optional Ingredients include those chosen from homosalate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Diethylhexylbutamido triazone, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Butyl
  • compositions of the present invention may also optionally comprise one or more of the following optional ingredients.
  • Preservatives may be added to the composition such as benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, 2-bromo2-nitropropane-l,3- diol (bronopol, which is available commercially under the trade name Myacide ®, benzyl alcohol, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, phenoxyethanol, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, sodium methyl paraben, sodium dehydroacetate, polyhexamethylenebiguanide hydrochloride, isothiazolone and sodium propyl paraben and mixtures thereof, suitably in an amount of from 0.01 to 10 wt % of the composition.
  • Sequestering agents may be added to the composition, such as ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid and salts thereof, typically in an amount of from 0.005 to 0.5 wt % of the composition.
  • the composition may also include waxes such as cocoa butter suitably in an amount of from 0.1 to 10 wt % of the composition.
  • the composition may also comprise suitable, cosmetically acceptable diluents, carriers and/or propellants such as dimethyl ether.
  • the composition may also include pearlising agents such as stearic monoethanolamide and/or mica, suitably in an amount of from 0.01 to 10 wt % of the composition.
  • Perfumes may be added suitably in an amount of from 0.01 to 2 wt % of the composition, as may water soluble dyes such as tartrazine, suitably in an amount of from a trace amount such as lxlO "5 to 0.1 wt % of the composition.
  • the composition may also include pH adjusting agents such as sodium hydroxide, amino methyl propanol, triethanolamine, suitably in an amount of from 0.01 to 10 wt % of the composition.
  • the composition may be buffered by means well known in the art, for example by use of buffer systems comprising succinic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and acceptable salts thereof, phosphoric acid, mono-or disodium phosphate and sodium carbonate.
  • the composition may have a pH between 3 and 10, between 4 and 8, or between 4.5 and 6.5.
  • composition of the disclosed technology does not contain a ascorbic acid derivative chosen from sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glycoside, L- ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, retinyl ascorbate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
  • a ascorbic acid derivative chosen from sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glycoside, L- ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, retinyl ascorbate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
  • composition of the disclosed technology does not include MMP compounds that comprise one hydroxyaryl or polyhydroxyaryl compound, or cyclic compounds having a cyclic group based upon a compound comprising a pyran, a lactam, or a piperidine constituent.
  • composition disclosed herein may contain 0.1 to 10 wt
  • a thickener such as a viscosity modifying agent and/or gelling agent, and may be typically a polymeric thickener.
  • a thickener, viscosity modifying agent and/or gelling agent may be added to the composition, such as acrylic acid polymers e. g. available commercially under the trade name Carbopol® or Ultrez® (both Lubrizol ), or a ta urate copolymer such as acryloyl methyl taurate-vinyipyrroiidone copolymers, or h yd rox yethyl aery 1 ate/sod ium. acryloyldimethy! taiiratc copolymers, or modified celluloses e. g.
  • acrylic acid polymers e. g. available commercially under the trade name Carbopol® or Ultrez® (both Lubrizol )
  • a ta urate copolymer such as acryloyl methyl taurate-vinyipyrroiidone copolymers, or h yd rox yethyl aery 1 ate
  • hydroxyethylcellulose available commercially under the trade name Natrosol® (Hercules) or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, amine oxides, block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide (for example, those available from BASF Wyandotte under the trade name' luronic”®), PVM, MA, or a decadiene crosspolymer (available under the trade name Stabilez® 60), ethoxylated fatty alcohols, salt (magnesium chloride, sodium chloride), Aristoflex®AVC (Clariant), phthalic acid amide, xanthan gum, starch, or modified starch (such as a metal salt of starch e.g., aluminum salt of the reaction product of 1 -octenylsuccinic anhydride with starch), sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohols, fatty alcohols and alkyl galactmanans available under the trade name N-Hance® from Hercules.
  • Natrosol® Hercules
  • the gel may comprise: 50 to 95 wt % water and 0.1 to 10 wt % of a thickener, or 60 to
  • the emulsion disclosed herein may be a water-in-oil, oil-in- water, or water-in-silicone composition, typically an oil-in-water, or water-in-silicone composition, often oil-in-water.
  • the emulsion may comprise an oil phase and have an aqueous phase content of 30 to 85 wt %, or 50 to 80 wt %, or 60 to 75 wt % of the composition, or may contain water present at 40 to 80 wt %, or 50 to 75 wt %, or 60 to 75 wt % of the composition.
  • the emulsion may comprise an oil phase having 15 to 70 wt %, or 30 to 50 wt %, or 25 to 40 wt % of the composition.
  • the emulsion may be an oil-in-water composition comprising 15 to 70 wt % of an oil phase; and 30 to 85 wt % of an aqueous phase, or comprising 25 to 40 wt % of an oil phase; and 60 to 75 wt % of an aqueous phase.
  • the emulsion may be in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, and the water phase may be present at 30 to 85 wt % of an aqueous phase; and silicone present at 15 to 70 wt % of a silicone phase.
  • the emulsion may be in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, and the water phase may be present at 60 to 75 wt % of an aqueous phase; and silicone present at 25 to 40 wt % of a silicone phase.
  • the oil phase may be provided by any suitable silicate, dimethiconols, silicone elastomer and mixtures thereof (typically a silicone elastomer).
  • the silicone oil phase may be formed from an organopolysiloxane.
  • the organopolysiloxane may be chosen from one or more of a polyalkylsiloxane, alkyl substituted dimethicone, cyclomethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate. dimethiconol, polyalkylaryl siloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyalkylsiloxane may be for example a cyclomethicone, or dimethicone, typically a dimethicone.
  • a water-in-silicone composition disclosed herein may include an emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer, a non-emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer, or a mixture thereof.
  • non-emulsifying as used herein, defines crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers from which polyoxyalkylene units are absent.
  • the elastomers may include dimethyl polysiloxanes crosslinked by Si-H sites on a molecularly spherical MQ resin.
  • Emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers include the crosslinked polymers described in US Patents 5,412,004; 5,837,793; and 5,811,487.
  • the emulsifying elastomer comprised of dimethicone copolyol crosspolymer (and) dimethicone is commercially available from Shin Etsu under the trade name KSG-21.
  • the non-emulsifying elastomers may include dimethicone crosspolymers.
  • dimethicone crosspolymers are supplied by a variety of suppliers including Dow Corning (EL9240).
  • Other dimethicones crosspolymer are available from General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, 18 [dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and Grant Industries (GRANSILTM line of elastomers).
  • SFE 839 General Electric
  • Shin Etsu KSG-15, 16, 18 [dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]
  • Grant Industries GRANSILTM line of elastomers
  • Cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention and processes for making them are further described in US Patents 4,970,252; 5,760,116; and 5,654,362.
  • Commercially available elastomers typical for use herein are Dow Coming's
  • An oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion may comprise an organic oil.
  • the organic oil may be volatile o non-voaltile.
  • the organic oil may include a diluent, a solvent, a polyolefin. polymer, or an ester oil.
  • ester oil means an oil that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C.) comprising at least one ester functional group.
  • the ester oil used herein is chosen, for example, from monoesters.
  • the ester oil may, for example, be chosen from the monoesters of formula R ' COOR 2 wherein R 1 may be selected from l inear and branched h yd roc a rbo n - based chains comprising from 4 to 30, or 6 to 24, or 7 to 20 carbon atoms carbon atoms, and R 2 may be chosen from branched h yd roca rbo n -b ased chains comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 1 0 to 30 carbon atoms and further such as from 16 to 26 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils examples include isodecyl neopentanoate; isocetyl octanoate; isononyl isononanoate. isodecyl isononanoate. tridecyl isononanoate; hexyl laurate. 2-hexyldecyl laurate; isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isopropyl palmitate, 2 -ethyl hexyl palmitate, isooctyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate.
  • the ester oil may be present in the emulsion disclosed herein in an amount ranging, for example, from 0 to 20 wt %, or 0. 1 to 15 wt %, or 1 to 10 wt % of the composition.
  • Comparative Example 1 is a commercially available oil-in-water emulsion composition containing ascorbyl glucoside.
  • Example 1 is an oil-in-water emulsion composition containing approximately 65 wt % water, 10 wt % dimethicone, 0.2 wt % hibiscus extract, 0.09 wt % hydrolysed rice protein, 0.5 wt % of 3-ethyl ascorbic acid, and 0.004 wt % a mixture of peptides.
  • Example 2 is a water-in-silicone emulsion composition comprising approximately 38 wt % water, 43.2 wt % dimethicone, 0.14 wt % hibiscus extract, 0.09 wt % hydrolysed rice protein, 0.5 wt % of 3-ethyl ascorbic acid, and 0.001 wt % a mixture of peptides.
  • Example 3 is a water-in-silicone emulsion composition comprising approximately 38 wt % water, 43.6 wt % dimethicone, 0.001 wt % SynTC (peptide (commercially available DSM), 0.09 wt % hydrolysed rice protein, 0.5 wt % of 3-ethyl ascorbic acid, and 0.002 wt % a mixture of other peptides.
  • Example 4 is similar to EX1, except the composition comprises 0.1 wt % hibiscus extract, 0.2 wt % hydrolysed rice protein, 1 wt % of 3-ethyl ascorbic acid, and 0.05 wt % a mixture of peptides.
  • Example 5 is similar to EX2, except the composition comprises 0.1 wt % hibiscus extract, 0.15 wt % hydrolysed rice protein, 0.75 wt % of 3-ethyl ascorbic acid, and 0.01 wt % a mixture of peptides.
  • Example 6 is similar to EX3, except the composition comprises 0.035 wt % 0.004 wt % Syn®TC (commercially available from DSM), 0.02 wt % hydrolysed rice protein, 0.75 wt % of 3-ethyl ascorbic acid, and 0.0006 wt % a mixture of other peptides.
  • Each example is prepared by blending and mixing oil phase ingredients, and aqueous phase ingredients separately at a temperature of about 70 °C to ensure that all ingredients are solubilised in either water or oil. Once solubilised the oil phase and aqueous phase are blended at a temperature of about 70 °C until a homogenous emulsion composition is formed. Each example is then allowed to cool to ambient temperature.
  • Each example is evaluated by in an 8 week in vivo split face double blinded randomised controlled design on women aged 45 - 60 years old presenting with mild to advanced signs of ageing. Each example is applied twice a day over the designated randomised half face.
  • Anti-ageing efficacy is evaluated by the clinical grading of numerous facial features including crows-feet wrinkles, firmness, evenness of skin tone, photodamage, peri-oral wrinkles and forehead wrinkles.
  • Half point scores were assigned as necessary to accurately describe the skin feature.
  • CE1 and EX1-EX3 are reported as follows: CEl EXl EX2 EX3
  • the firmness results obtained indicate that the composition of the disclosed technology has improved firmness over the comparative example.
  • composition of the disclosed technology has at least one of reduced crows feet wrinkles, reduced peri-oral wrinkles, reduced forehead wrinkles, reduced level of uneven skin tine, increased skin firmness, and reduced photo-damage to skin over the comparative example.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La technologie selon l'invention concerne une composition comprenant : un acide ascorbique O-substituée ou son dérivé; un inhibiteur de métalloprotéinase de matrice; et de l'hibiscus ou un peptide, la composition comprenant une phase aqueuse présente à hauteur, au maximum, de 95 % en poids de la composition. La technologie selon l'invention concerne également l'utilisation de la composition et une méthode d'amélioration de la fermeté de la peau, ou de réduction de l'affaissement de la peau grâce à la composition.
PCT/EP2016/025126 2015-10-30 2016-10-26 Composition de soin de la peau et méthode associée Ceased WO2017071822A1 (fr)

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GB1519200.8A GB2543822A (en) 2015-10-30 2015-10-30 Skin care composition and method thereof

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WO2018001571A1 (fr) * 2016-06-30 2018-01-04 The Boots Company Plc Composition de soin de la peau et méthode associée
WO2018001570A1 (fr) * 2016-06-30 2018-01-04 The Boots Company Plc Procédé de soin de la peau
CN109432161A (zh) * 2018-12-27 2019-03-08 大理大学 鞍叶羊蹄甲提取物及其萃取物的制备方法与镇痛用途
CN113398024A (zh) * 2021-06-18 2021-09-17 广州恒芳生物科技有限公司 一种美白精华液及其制备方法
CN118557794A (zh) * 2024-07-31 2024-08-30 杭州科腾生物制品有限公司 一种注射用多肽透明质酸钠复合溶液及其制备方法

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RU2659959C1 (ru) * 2017-05-31 2018-07-04 Общество с ограниченной ответственностью "РУССКИЕ ТЕХНОЛОГИИ КРАСОТЫ+" Состав препарата для коррекции дефектов кожи
US20220313586A1 (en) * 2021-03-31 2022-10-06 L'oreal Cosmetic composition with glaucine, retinol and peptides to combat skin aging
CN115487100B (zh) * 2022-09-23 2025-02-18 诺斯贝尔化妆品股份有限公司 具有控油、细致毛孔功效的化妆品组合物及化妆品

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WO2018001571A1 (fr) * 2016-06-30 2018-01-04 The Boots Company Plc Composition de soin de la peau et méthode associée
WO2018001570A1 (fr) * 2016-06-30 2018-01-04 The Boots Company Plc Procédé de soin de la peau
CN109432161A (zh) * 2018-12-27 2019-03-08 大理大学 鞍叶羊蹄甲提取物及其萃取物的制备方法与镇痛用途
CN113398024A (zh) * 2021-06-18 2021-09-17 广州恒芳生物科技有限公司 一种美白精华液及其制备方法
CN113398024B (zh) * 2021-06-18 2021-12-21 广州恒芳生物科技有限公司 一种美白精华液及其制备方法
CN118557794A (zh) * 2024-07-31 2024-08-30 杭州科腾生物制品有限公司 一种注射用多肽透明质酸钠复合溶液及其制备方法

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