WO2016026566A1 - Method for producing an article of clothing - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for producing an article of clothing (1) by applying an elastomer (10), wherein a fabric layer (5) is applied onto a cylindrical carrier body (7), the application of the elastomer being carried out using the round printing method while the carrier body is rotating.

Description

 Method of making a garment

The invention relates to a process for the production of a garment, in particular for the production of an underwear or a sports garment.

EP 1 275 313 A2 describes a process for the production of an underwear or sportswear piece which has a seam-free edge which is formed by the application of an elastic medium and a corresponding fabric cut. Here, an elastic medium by screen printing or adhesive coating process is applied in webs on a fabric layer of the garment to be produced. After setting the elastic medium, the fabric is cut within the web so that the outer contour of the garment is formed by the cut elastic material web.

For further prior art, Giessmann, A.

Substrate and textile coating: practical knowledge for textile, clothing and coating companies. Berlin [ua]:

Springer, 2003, pp 42-45, DE 39 16 040 C2, DE 10 2006 033 393 AI, DE 199 40 018 AI and DE 10 2012 216 180 AI referenced.

CONFIRMATION COPY The invention has for its object to provide a simple manner and efficient method for

To provide a garment in which an elastomer is applied to a fabric surface.

This object is achieved according to the invention with the features of

Claim 1 solved. The dependent claims give appropriate

Further education.

With the aid of the method according to the invention, a

Garment such as an underwear or sports garment are made having at least one layer of fabric and in which an adhesive or elastomer is applied to the fabric surface, which in the fabric of the

Material layer penetrates and thereby an elastic and

at the same time forms a thin section in the garment. The method is a

Round printing process, in which the fabric surface on a

cylindrical carrier body is applied and the application of the elastomer takes place with a rotating carrier body. The

Round printing process is characterized by a rapid

Editing way and by a high precision at the

Application of the elastomer.

The elastomer-containing unit is usually arranged stationary in a round printing press. By the

Rotation of the cylindrical carrier body also rotates the fabric layer applied to the carrier body so that the elastomer can be applied to the fabric layer at various locations. The elastomer can with the rotation of the

cylindrical carrier body are applied continuously, resulting in a continuous, contiguous elastomeric web, or, according to an alternative embodiment,

discontinuous, for example for generating a point, strip or sheet-shaped, limited order of

Elastomer on the fabric surface. Optionally, a pattern of elastomer may be formed, such as a striped pattern or a dot-shaped elastomeric pattern.

In a continuously applied web, both open and closed elastomeric webs can be produced. Open webs are webs with defined start and end points, whereas closed webs,

for example, circular or elliptical orbits, have no such starting and ending point.

The fabric layer has tube shape and is on the

cylindrical, cylindrical support body mounted. The slipping of the tubular fabric layer on the carrier body makes it possible to apply a continuous, continuous elastomeric web on the tubular fabric layer, both rectilinear and non-linear, for example

sinusoidal elastomeric tracks are considered. Furthermore, it is also possible with tubular fabric layers to apply self-contained, non-circumferential elastomeric webs, for example in a circular or elliptical shape.

This can be various underwear or

Producing sportswear, such as briefs,

Undershirts, T-shirts, brassieres or stockings, in which, for example, the waistband or other edge region is formed by an elastomeric web. For example, a panty may be applied by pulling on a tubular layer of fabric

cylindrical carrier body and the application of a

continuous, linear elastomeric web, which forms the seam-free waistband of the panties. The

Leg cut-outs may also be bounded by an elastomeric sheet by an approximately round or elliptical Elastomer sheet for each leg cut is applied to the fabric layer on the cylindrical support body. It is also possible an open, curved elastomeric web to produce, for example, leg cutouts on the fabric layer

applying, where appropriate, after the application of the elastomer and trimming cutting fabric layers sections at defined positions,

For example, in Trägerbeich undershirts or T-shirts or in the crotch or gusset area of panties. The connection can be made in various ways, for example by means of snaps, through seams or the like.

Furthermore, it may be appropriate, after the setting of the elastomer, the fabric layer within the elastomeric web

cut to size so that the elastomeric web forms the edge region of the garment formed by the fabric layer.

For example, the waistband of a brief is cut in the circumferential, straight-lined elastomeric web, as well as the

Leg cuts, so that the garment through the

Cutting inside the elastomeric sheets gets its final shape.

As an alternative to a tubular fabric surface, which is mounted circumferentially on the cylindrical carrier body, flat, non-circumferential fabric layers come into consideration, which are placed on the carrier body. The fabric surface in this case is flat, for example in a rectangular or square shape and can by appropriate measures on the cylindrical

Carrier body can be fixed, for example by

electrostatic charge or in a mechanical manner, such as a Velcro type.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the elastomer

Using a stencil applied to the fabric surface, in the at least one recess for the radial passage of the elastomer is introduced. The elastomer is in the unbonded state of an elastomer receiving

Unit such as a tube on one side of the

Applied stencil and passes through the recess in the template radially through to the opposite layer of material on the cylindrical support body.

Optionally, the elastomer for a uniform

Distribution using a squeegee or the like in the

Recessed recess, so that the recess of the

Elastomer is uniformly filled and accordingly results in a uniform elastomer application to the fabric surface. As a result of the rotation of the carrier body, different sections of the material layer come into contact with the elastomer and absorb it. The elastomer penetrates into the fabric of the fabric surface, wherein in the set state, the elastomer advantageously does not project beyond the surfaces of the fabric layer, so that the fabric layer also in the region of the applied elastomer has the same or at least approximately the same thickness as outside the elastomeric web.

The shape of the elastomeric sheet depends on the shape of the recess in the template. The template is advantageously designed to be flat and has, for example, a rectangular shape. The shape of the elastomeric web in the finished garment corresponds to the recess lying in the plane of the template.

For example, it is expedient to provide for the production of a circumferential collar of a briefs a rectilinear recess in the template whose length corresponds to the circumference of the

cylindrical carrier body and thus also corresponds to the circumference of the panties. The recess extends, with respect to the cylindrical carrier body, tangentially to the carrier body. The template is, according to further expedient embodiment, moved away in the tangential direction over the carrier body. At the same time, the carrier body and the fabric layer applied to the carrier body rotate, so that the elastomer of the recess in the template is applied following the fabric surface.

The rotational movement of the carrier body and the displacement movement of the template in the tangential direction can kinematically

be coupled. It is particularly expedient that the template drives the carrier body, for example by the template on the carrier body or the fabric layer with

Friction rests and the carrier body is mounted freely rotating. In the tangential forward movement of the template - based on the cylindrical carrier body - by the frictional contact and the carrier body with the fabric layer

driven.

But also comes a reverse embodiment with a rotary drive of the carrier body, wherein on the frictional contact of the template, the tangential feed motion is impressed. Finally, it is also possible to provide separate drives for the template and the carrier body, wherein the

Rotary movement of the carrier body and the feed movement of the template are synchronized.

It may be advantageous to introduce into the template a plurality of recesses through which the elastomer in a pattern corresponding to the course of the recesses on the fabric layer

is applied. This makes it possible in particular in a single step, the fabric layer completely with the desired elastomer pattern or the elastomeric webs

provided, for which only a maximum of one revolution of the

Carrier body is required. As an alternative to a template, are introduced into the recesses, the elastomeric sheets can also by adjusting the position of an elastomer container in which the elastomer

is received, or a nozzle on the elastomer container in

Tangentialrichtung and be generated in the transverse direction. The position of the elastomer container or of the nozzle is controlled in two axial directions, which lie in a tangential plane to the carrier body, so that the desired elastomeric webs are produced on the rotating fabric web.

In a further advantageous embodiment, the pro

Time unit escaping amount of elastomer adjustable from the female elastomer container. This makes it possible, during the application of elastomeric sheets on the fabric layer

apply different amounts of elastomer in different places.

According to yet another advantageous embodiment, the elastomeric sheets in the fabric layer form the outer contour of the

to be produced garment. The fabric layer is cut after the curing of the elastomer in the applied elastomeric sheets, which form the outer contour of the garment.

The process for applying the elastomer is suitable both for only a single layer of fabric as well as two or more superimposed layers of fabric, which on the

are stretched cylindrical support body. In the case of two or more layers of fabric, these are connected to one another via the elastomeric webs, in particular in the region of the outer contour of the webbing

Garment, spaced from the outer contour

Mid areas of the garment either free from

Elastomer or only partially provided with elastomer, for example with elastomer strips or points. According to yet an advantageous embodiment, it may be appropriate to use the elastomer with a flocking material

coat, for example with cotton particles, around the

To improve wearing comfort. The application of the

Flocking material is especially not yet

hardened or set state of the elastomer to adhere the flocking material to the elastomer and a

permanent connection between flocking material and

To support and enable elastomer. After that

Elastomer is set, the flocking adheres permanently and safely to the elastomer and the fabric surface.

Further advantages and expedient embodiments can be taken from the further claims, the description of the figures and the drawings. Show it:

Fig. 1 shows a schematic representation of a slip whose

 Outer contour is formed both in the waistband area as well as in the area of the leg cutouts of elastomeric webs,

Fig. 2 shows an apparatus for producing a

 Garment with elastomeric webs, with a rotating cylindrical carrier body for receiving a fabric layer and a tangent guided over the fabric layer template with recesses for the passage of elastomer,

3 is a plan view of a template,

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a template in one

 Design variant.

In the figures, the same components are provided with the same reference numerals. In Fig. 1 a executed as a slip garment 1 is shown, the outer contours in the region of the covenant and the two leg cutings are each formed of elastomeric sheets 2, 3, 4. The elastomeric sheets 2, 3, 4 are through

Applying elastomer on the fabric of the fabric layer 5 produced from which the garment is made. The elastomer, for example a silicone, is used in non-set,

Flowable state applied to the fabric layer and penetrates into the tissue of the fabric surface, then done the

Bonding of the elastomer. The fabric surface is not or at least not significantly thicker in the area of the elastomeric webs 2, 3, 4, but the elasticity is considerably increased in the area of the elastomeric webs 2, 3, 4. The elastomeric sheets can in the production of the not yet cut fabric layer

are applied, then the fabric layer is cut within the elastomeric sheets, whereby the outer contours of the garment are formed.

The garment can consist of either only one fabric layer 5 or at least two superimposed fabric layers. In the latter case, the elastomeric sheets also serve to connect the superimposed layers of fabric.

Optionally, the elastomeric sheets 2, 3, 4 are coated with a flocking material to improve the comfort. The flocking material is advantageously applied in the unbonded state of the elastomer so that the flocking material adheres to the elastomer by gluing.

In Fig. 2 is an apparatus for producing a

Garment shown in FIG. 1. The device 6 comprises a cylindrical carrier body 7, a template 8, an elastomeric container 9 for receiving elastomer 10 and a squeegee eleventh

The front side of the elastomer container 9 is as a nozzle

formed, via which the Elastomeraustrag takes place.

Elastomer container 9 and nozzle may optionally also be designed as a controllable metering system to the pro

Time unit to be able to set emerging elastomer quantity.

The device 6 is advantageously also with a

Linear actuator equipped for the template 8, the one

tangential displacement of the template 8 relative to the cylindrical support body 7 in the direction of arrow 12 allows. The template 8 rests on the lateral surface of the cylindrical carrier body 7 or the fabric layer 5 clamped on the carrier body with friction, so that rotates in a translational feed movement of the template 8 in the direction of arrow 12 rotatably mounted, roller-shaped carrier body 7 according to arrow 13.

The fabric layer 5 is designed as a fabric tube which is mounted on the carrier body 7. At the tangential

Displacement movement of the template 8 in the direction of arrow 12, the carrier body 7 rotates with the clamped fabric surface 5, so that all areas of the fabric layer 5 come into contact with the template 8 over the circumference.

In the template 8, as shown in FIG. 3, several

Recesses 14, 15, 16 introduced, the distance from the

Edge region of the template 8 are arranged and completely penetrate the template 8. Through the recesses 14, 15, 16 elastomer 10 is pushed out of the elastomer container 9, wherein the squeegee 11 a uniform spreading of the elastomer 10 in the recesses 14, 15, 16 in the template eighth is reached. The elastomer 10 penetrates the template 8 and comes into contact with the fabric layer 5 on the

opposite side of the template, wherein the order of the elastomer 10 on the fabric layer 5 corresponds to the contour or geometry of the recesses 14, 15, 16 in the template 8.

The recess 14 in the template 8 is rectilinear and extends in the tangential direction with respect to the

Scope of the carrier body 7. The length of the recess 14th

corresponds to the circumference of carrier body 7 or fabric surface 5 on the carrier body 7. The passing through the rectilinear recess 14 elastomer 10 forms the elastomeric web 2 in the region of the collar of the item of clothing. 1

The two recesses 15 and 16 are elliptical and designed as closed curves. That by the

Recesses 15 and 16 passing through elastomer 10 forms the edge-side elastomeric sheets 3 and 4 at the leg cutouts of the item of clothing. 1

After application of the elastomer using the template 8, the fabric layer 5 after the setting of the elastomer from

Carrier body 7 withdrawn and cut out in the region of the elastomeric sheets 2, 3, 4. The cutting process can be done by the elastomeric webs, so that the outer contour in the region of the Federal and the leg cutouts directly from the

Elastomeric tracks is formed.

Optionally, a flocking with flocking material is still before the complete setting of the elastomer

carried out .

4, a template 8 is shown in a variant embodiment. Also in accordance with FIG. 4 is a rectilinear recess 14 introduced into the template 8, which at a

Slip to be produced produces the federal forming elastomeric web on the fabric surface. Furthermore, three open, curved recesses 17, 18, 19 are introduced into the template 8, which form the elastomeric tracks in the leg cut in a slip. The web 17 and the left part of the web 18 in this case form the leg cutouts left and right in the front part of the briefs, the right part of the recess 18 and the right recess 19 form the leg cutouts in the back of the panties.

After curing of the elastomer, the fabric layer is cut out within the elastomeric sheets produced. Subsequently, the two fabric sections, which are located in the crotch area, must be connected to each other, for example by sewing. The material sections to be connected correspond in the

Template 8 on the one hand the transition from the recess 17 to the recess 18 and the other the transition from the recess 18 to the recess 19th

Claims

claims 1. A method for producing a garment (1) by applying an elastomer (10) to the fabric of at least one fabric layer (5), characterized, in that the fabric surface (5) is formed as a fabric tube, which is mounted on a cylindrical carrier body (7), and the application of the elastomer (10) takes place in a round printing process with a rotating carrier body (7). 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized, in that the elastomer (10) is applied to the fabric surface (5) by at least one recess (14, 15, 16) in a template (8). is applied. 3. The method according to claim 2, characterized, the template (8) is moved tangentially over the carrier body (7). 4. The method according to claim 3, characterized, that the template 8) drives the carrier body (7). 5. The method according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized, in that a plurality of recesses (14, 15, 16) are introduced into the template (8), by means of which the elastomer (10) is applied to the fabric layer (5) in a pattern corresponding to the course of the recesses (14, 15, 16). 6. The method according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized, in that the elastomer (10) applied by the at least one recess (14, 15, 16) in the template (8) corresponds to the outer contour of the item of clothing (1) and the fabric layer (5) after hardening of the elastomer (10) along or is cut within the outer contour. 7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized, that the elastomer (10) after application with a Flocking material is coated. 8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized, that is used as the elastomer (10) silicone. 9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized, the elastomer 810) is only applied to a single fabric layer (5). 10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized, that the elastomer (10) two superimposed fabric layers (5) are applied to the cylindrical support body (7), wherein the applied elastomer (10) connects the two fabric layers (5). 11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized, the elastomer (10) is uniformly applied to the rotating cloth surface (5) by means of a doctor blade (11). 12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized, the elastomer (10) is applied at a distance from the edge of the fabric surface (5). 13. A device for carrying out the method according to one of claims 1 to 12, with a cylindrical carrier body (7) and a template (8), in which at least one recess (14, 15, 16) is introduced and on the carrier body (7). adjacent tangent to the carrier body (7) is displaceable.