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WO2016062480A1 - Produit coiffant à aptitude à l'application améliorée - Google Patents

Produit coiffant à aptitude à l'application améliorée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016062480A1
WO2016062480A1 PCT/EP2015/071716 EP2015071716W WO2016062480A1 WO 2016062480 A1 WO2016062480 A1 WO 2016062480A1 EP 2015071716 W EP2015071716 W EP 2015071716W WO 2016062480 A1 WO2016062480 A1 WO 2016062480A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
copolymer
composition according
polydimethylsiloxane
wax
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2015/071716
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Anna Henschel
Bernd Richters
Cyrielle Martinez
Julia Bibiane Lange
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of WO2016062480A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016062480A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for hair setting or for temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, with improved applicability or spreadability, wherein the composition contains a specific dimethicone or a combination of dimethicones in addition to an anionic emulsifier.
  • hair treatment agents which serve a temporary shaping of the hair, play an important role.
  • Corresponding temporary deformation agents usually contain synthetic polymers and / or waxes as the setting agent.
  • Means for supporting the temporary shaping of hair can be formulated, for example, as hair spray, hair wax, hair gel, hair foam.
  • a hair temporary deformation agent hereafter called a styling agent
  • a styling agent The most important property of a hair temporary deformation agent, hereafter called a styling agent, is to treat the treated fibers in the newly modeled form - i. a form imprinted on the hair - to give as strong a hold as possible.
  • the hairstyle stop is in
  • styling agents In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties which affect the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tack and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable for all hair types and mild to hair and skin. In order to meet the different requirements, a variety of synthetic polymers have already been developed as setting agents, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers.
  • waxes are used as strengthening active ingredients.
  • the polymers and / or waxes when applied to hair, provide a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle a strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the (polymer) film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.
  • Hair waxes and pastes have become increasingly popular with consumers in recent years because such products can provide a flexible and reshapeable hold. These are usually offered in tins or pots or pens in trade. Hair waxes and pastes usually contain vegetable, animal or mineral waxes as a shaping component. For use, these products are often rubbed first in the hand and then spread on the hair. These hair waxes are based on natural raw materials, a good hold of the hair causes. Nevertheless, the hair waxes on the market can not completely satisfy the wishes of the users in terms of ease of application and easier distribution on the hair. So, on the hand rubbing requires either the use of
  • Known ingredients of cosmetic compositions are polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI: Dimethicone). These are available in widely varying properties depending on the particular polymer structure and chain length.
  • WO 201 1/019718 A2 describes their use in the form of crosspolymers in cosmetic agents.
  • KR 201253699 A discloses a hair wax composition containing a wax and various alkyldimethicones.
  • US 2013/0164240 A1 discloses hair care products which contain dimethicones of various viscosities.
  • An object of the present invention was therefore to provide suitable higher-viscosity, wax-containing cosmetic compositions for hair deformation, which are characterized by good film-forming and / or strengthening properties, have a very high degree of hold without the need to sacrifice flexibility and in particular easy on the Hair can be applied and distributed in the hair and as possible no visible residues.
  • the present invention provides:
  • a cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers which contains:
  • composition according to item 1 wherein the polydimethylsiloxane (a) having a melting point of 20 to 35 ° C has the INCI name bis-stearyl dimethicone.
  • composition according to item 1 or 2 wherein the wax (b) is selected from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, cetyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the anionic emulsifier (c) is a phosphorylated emulsifier, in particular an alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphate.
  • anionic emulsifier (c) is a phosphorylated emulsifier, in particular an alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphate.
  • composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the anionic emulsifier is a phosphoric acid mono-, di- or triester of C12 / C14 alkoxylated fatty alcohols or a mixture thereof, in particular trilaureth-4 phosphates.
  • the anionic emulsifier is a phosphoric acid mono-, di- or triester of C12 / C14 alkoxylated fatty alcohols or a mixture thereof, in particular trilaureth-4 phosphates.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points which further comprises a polydimethylsiloxane (d) having a melting point of 40 to 65 ° C.
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 6, wherein the polydimethylsiloxane (d) having a melting point of 40 to 65 ° C is one with the INCI name stearoxymethicone / dimethicone copolymer and / or one with the INCI name C30-C45 alkyl dimethicone.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points which, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, 5.0 to 60.0 wt .-%, preferably 5.0 to 30.0 wt .-%, of the polydimethylsiloxane (a) contains.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points which, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, 1, 0 to 50.0 wt .-%, preferably 5.0 to 40.0 wt .-%, of the wax (b) contains.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points which also contains at least one oil component, preferably in an amount of at least 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points which further contains at least one inorganic filler, preferably in an amount of at least 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • composition as hair gel, hair wax, styling paste or styling lotion, especially in the form of a stick (stick) is present.
  • keratinic fibers according to the invention comprises furs, wool and feathers, but in particular human hair.
  • composition according to the invention necessarily contains as component (a) a polydimethysiloxane having a melting point in the range from 20 to 35 ° C. More preferred is a melting point in the range of 22 to 32 "C, more preferably 25 to 30 ° C.
  • polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI: dimethicones) are available in widely varying properties, depending on the particular polymer structure and chain length, the molecular weight etc.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane is preferably copolymers or graft copolymers in which the silicone chain domains and hydrocarbon domains are present .. Grant Industries, USA, offers dimethylpolysiloxanes having various properties under the name Gransil® VX.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane is preferably one with the INCI name bisstearyl dimethicone.
  • a bis-stearyl dimethicone is particularly preferably usable as component (a), which is obtainable under the name Gransil® VX 418 and has a melting point of about 22 to 32 ° C.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention furthermore contains at least one natural or synthetic wax (b).
  • waxes solid paraffins or isoparaffins
  • plant waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Espartograswachs, Japan wax, cork wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes and animal waxes such.
  • ceresin and ozokerite or the petrochemical waxes such.
  • waxes it may be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes.
  • chemically modified waxes especially the hard waxes, z. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes, can be used.
  • triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C16-30 fatty acids such as.
  • Hardened triglyceride fats hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil
  • glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate furthermore synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycols (eg Syncrowachs®) or polyols with 2-6 C atoms,
  • Carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids for example 12-hydroxystearic acid
  • lactides of long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids and full esters of fatty alcohols and di- and tricarboxylic acids z.
  • dicetylsuccinate or dicetyl -stearyladipat and mixtures of these substances.
  • the wax components can also be selected from the group of esters of saturated, unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated, unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the
  • Wax component or the entirety of the wax components are solid at room temperature.
  • the wax components may be selected, for example, from the group of C16-36-alkyl stearates, C10-40-alkyl stearates, C2-40-alkylisostearates, C20-40-dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C18-38-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearates, C20-40- Alkyl erucates are selected, also C30-50- alkyl beeswax and cetearyl behenate can be used. Also silicone waxes, for example
  • Stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol may be advantageous.
  • Preferred wax components are the esters of saturated monohydric C20-C60 alcohols and saturated C8-C30 monocarboxylic acids, in particular a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, which is obtainable under the name Kesterwachs® K82H from Koster Keunen Inc.
  • Wax components should be solid at 25 ° C, but melt in the range of 35-95 ° C, with a range of 45-85 ° C being preferred.
  • the wax (b) is selected from beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, cetyl palmitate, microcrystalline waxes (microcrystalline paraffins) and mixtures thereof.
  • Natural, chemically modified and synthetic waxes may be used alone or in combination be used.
  • the teaching according to the invention thus also encompasses the combined use of several waxes.
  • Spezialwachs 7686 OE a mixture of cetyl palmitate, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75 ° C, manufacturer: Kahl & Co
  • Polywax® GP 200 a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 ° C, manufacturer: Croda
  • Weightceresin® FL 400 a petroleum jelly / vaseline oil / wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54 ° C, manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralölgesellschaft
  • the component (c) used according to the invention is an anionic emulsifier or an anionic surface-active compound.
  • Preferred anionic emulsifiers are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and
  • Ethercarbon Acid having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule
  • sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl ester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group
  • sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups
  • monoglyceride sulfates alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate
  • anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • anionic group such as.
  • carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable foaming
  • Anionic surfactants in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
  • HN-COR 1 in the FTCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, Aikanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C 12/14 or C12 / 18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or
  • Stearic acid especially sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate
  • X is H or a -ChbCOOR group
  • Y is H or -OH is under the condition that Y is H when X is -CH 2 COOR
  • R, R 1 and R 2 independently represent a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a Z radical derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C6-C18) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C6-C16) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R 1 or R 2 is a radical Z,
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound, which is selected from the group consisting of etherified (C6-C18) -alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C6-C16) hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl groups, provided that at least one of the groups R 1 or R 2 is a radical Z,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
  • Ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) ; "-CH 2 -COOH in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 1 6,
  • Acylsarcosinates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
  • Acyl taurates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
  • Acyl isethionates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen
  • R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M in which R 7 is CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2, CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3, n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,
  • Alkaline earth metal is. Typical examples of suitable in the context of the invention
  • Monoglyceride (ether) sulfates are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride
  • Oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with
  • R 8 GO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the anionic emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of the phosphorylated, in particular the phosphorylated, alkoxylated emulsifiers, particularly preferably from the group of the alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, in particular those according to formula (I).
  • oleth-3-phosphate, mixtures of mono-, di- and triceteareth-4-phosphate (Hostaphat® KW 340 D, Clariant) and / or mixtures of mono-, di- and trilau reth-4-phosphate ( Hostaphat® KL 340 D, Clariant) are used as anionic emulsifiers.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane (a) is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention, for example, in an amount of 3.0 to 60.0 wt .-%, preferably 5.0 to 60.0 wt .-%, more preferably 10.0 to 40, 0 wt .-%, also preferably 15 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, each expressed as the solids content of active substance in the cosmetic composition.
  • the wax (b) is contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention for example in an amount of 1, 0 to 50.0 wt .-%, preferably 5.0 to 40.0 wt .-%, also preferably 10.0 to 30, 0 wt .-%, also preferably from 10.0 to 20.0 wt, -%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the anionic emulsifier (c) is present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, for example, in an amount of 0.5 to 30.0 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 20.0 wt .-%, also preferably 2.0 to 15 , 0 wt .-%, also preferably from 5.0 to 10.0 wt, -%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention further comprises a polydimethylsiloxane (d) having a melting point of from 40 to 65 ° C, more preferably from about 42 to 60 ° C, also preferably from about 44 to 52 ° C, further preferably from about 40 to 50 ° C.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane (d) is used in particular for adjusting the melting point of the cosmetic composition, preferably and preferably without negatively influencing other product properties.
  • Suitable polydimethylsiloxane (d) according to the invention are, in particular, those having the INCI name stearoxymethicone / dimethicone copolymer and C30-45 alkyl dimethicones which have melting points in the ranges mentioned.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane (d) with a melting point of 40 to 65 ° C. is particularly preferably one with the INCI name Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer and / or one with the INCI name C30-C45 Alkyl Dimethicone.
  • Examples of preferred such polydimethylsiloxanes (d) are the products available from Grant Industries Gransil VX-401 (Stearoxymethicone / dimethicone copolymer, melting point 42.0 to 48.0 ° C), Gransil VX-402 (stearoxymethicone / dimethicone copolymer, melting point 45, 0 to 51, 0 ° C), Gransil VX-403 (stearoxymethicone / dimethicone copolymer, mp 44.0 to 50.0 ° C), Gransil VX-404 (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone, mp 42.0 to 48.0 ° C) and Gransil VX-407 (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone melting point 42.0 to 48.0 ° C).
  • Gransil VX-401 Stearoxymethicone / dimethicone copolymer, melting point 42.0 to 48.0 ° C
  • Gransil VX-402 ste
  • the polydimethylsiloxane (d) is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention, for example, in an amount of 1, 0 to 50.0 wt .-%, preferably 3.0 to 30.0 wt .-%, more preferably 5.0 to 20, 0 wt .-%, also preferably 5.0 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the composition according to the invention based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, 5.0 to 30.0 wt .-%, of Polydimethylsiloxane (a) and 1, 0 to 30.0 wt .-% of polydimethylsiloxane (d), more preferably 5.0 to 20.0 wt .-%, of polydimethylsiloxane (a) and 5.0 to 15.0 wt. -% of the polydimethylsiloxane (d).
  • the present invention also permits the formulation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention which also contains an oil component.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains a relatively high proportion of the oil component, for example 20% by weight or more, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, more preferably 40 to 60% by weight.
  • the oil components serve in particular as a care substance.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example, vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils,
  • Isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms. in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain an oil body from the group of silicone oils, provided that these are different from components (a) and (d).
  • the group of silicone oils includes dimethicones, which include cyclomethicones, aminofunctional silicones and dimethiconols. The dimethicones may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Suitable silicone oils or silicone gums are, in particular, dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives.
  • dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives.
  • Examples are cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, Dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane and
  • Ester oils ie esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms such as isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), lsononanklare-C16-18-alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24),
  • Stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fat alcohol caprina 'caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate ( Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), Cetearyi isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V) are further examples of oil bodies.
  • the oil component may according to the invention preferably be a vegetable oil, in particular castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • the present invention also permits the formulation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention which also contain an inorganic filler, preferably in powder form.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains a relatively high proportion of the inorganic filler, for example 10% by weight or more, preferably 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, more preferably 40 to 50% by weight. ,
  • pulverulent inorganic compounds are generally used, the powder particles preferably having a particle size of from 10 to 150 ⁇ m, more preferably from 30 to 100 ⁇ m.
  • the particle size is determined by means of known sieve analysis and can be adjusted by sieving. Optionally, it can be assumed that coarser powders are first ground and then sieved.
  • the inorganic compound is a silicon-based compound, more preferably silica, a silica-containing inorganic
  • Powder mixture or a silicate is also preferably used as an inorganic compound pumice, an aluminum silicate, preferably from the group of kaolins, a magnesium-aluminum silicate, preferably from the group of bentonites or mixtures thereof.
  • an aluminum silicate preferably from the group of kaolins, a magnesium-aluminum silicate, preferably from the group of bentonites or mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the invention may contain other conventional ingredients of styling agents.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention further contains one or more thickening or gelling component (s) which aid in film formation.
  • thickening or gelling component examples are cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers.
  • the proportion by weight of this further component in the total weight of the cosmetic composition is for example 0.02 to 40 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 30.0 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 0 to 20.0 wt .-%.
  • Examples are Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylate / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer,
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates copolymer, acrylates / C 1 -2
  • Diethylenetriamine Copolymer Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Allyl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aminoethyl Acrylates Phosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD Acrylates / diacetone acrylamide copolymer, AMP acrylates / allyl methacrylate copolymer, AMP acrylates / C 1 -18 alkyl acrylates / C 1 -8 alkyl acrylamide copolymer, AMP acrylates / diacetone acrylamide copolymer, AMP acrylates / dimethyl
  • Butyloxyamodimethicone / PEG-60 Copolymer Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Com
  • Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA Sulfites, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylates
  • Terephthalates polyester-1, polyethylacrylate, polyethylene terephthalate, polymethacryloyl ethyl betaine, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium 9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-1 1, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-1 5, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-1 7, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium -22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35
  • nonionic polymers examples are:
  • Luviskol (BASF). Luviskol VA 64 and Luviskol VA 73, respectively
  • Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as marketed, for example, under the trademarks Cuiminal and Benecel (AQUALON).
  • siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Suitable are both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes, such as non-volatile siloxanes
  • siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane,
  • Polyalkylarylsiloxane such as polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • the further component acting as gelling agent is preferably a homopolyacrylic acid (INCI:
  • Garbopol® which is commercially available under the name Garbopol® in different designs.
  • Other suitable auxiliaries and additives are in particular additional care substances.
  • the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the inventive composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract, but also mono- or oligosaccharides and / or lipids.
  • dicarboxylic acid esters symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols
  • triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol or fatty acid partial glycerides which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and technical mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further contain neutralizers or pH adjusters. Examples of used in styling products
  • Neutralizers are primary amino alcohols.
  • An example of such a neutralizer which can preferably be used according to the invention is aminomethyl propanol (INCI), which is commercially available, for example, under the name AMP-ULTRA® PC.
  • the agents according to the invention can furthermore contain a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic Media, preferably aqueous media, for example with at least 10 wt .-% water, calculated on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • water-soluble solvents as cosolvent are glycerol and / or ethylene glycol and / or 1, 2-propylene glycol in an amount of 0 to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be formulated in the forms customary for the temporary shaping of hair; preference is given according to the invention to the formulation as a more viscous form, such as, for example, as a hair gel, hair wax, styling paste or styling lotion or also clay. Especially preferred is a packaging in the form of a stick. It has been shown that so that a good distribution of the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be made in the hair, that a large-area contact of the hands with the cosmetic product is often not required.
  • Other customary preparations of styling agents of higher viscosity for example in cans and crucibles, are also preferred according to the invention.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of cosmetic compositions according to the invention for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair, and to a method for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to keratinic fibers.
  • composition of some preferred cosmetic agents can be found in the following tables (data as solids content and in wt .-% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, unless stated otherwise).
  • Wax (b) 1.0 to 50.0 5.0 to 40.0 10.0 to 30.0 10.0 to 20.0
  • Anionic emulsifier (c) 0.5 to 30.0 1, 0 to 20.0 2.0 to 15.0 5.0 to 10.0
  • Wax (b) 1.0 to 50.0 5.0 to 40.0 10.0 to 30.0 10.0 to 20.0
  • Wax (b) 1.0 to 50.0 5.0 to 40.0 10.0 to 30.0 10.0 to 20.0
  • Olcomponent 10.0 to 80.0 20.0 to 70.0 30.0 to 70.0 40.0 to 60.0 preferably castor oil and / or
  • Wax (b) 1.0 to 50.0 5.0 to 40.0 10.0 to 30.0 10.0 to 20.0
  • Anionic emulsifier (c) 0.5 to 30.0 1, 0 to 20.0 2.0 to 15.0 5.0 to 10.0
  • Polydimethylsiloxane (d) 0.5 to 30.0 1, 0 to 25.0 2.0 to 20.0 5.0 to 15.0
  • Wax (b) 1.0 to 50.0 5.0 to 40.0 10.0 to 30.0 10.0 to 20.0
  • Stearoxymethicone / dimethicone copolymer e.g.
  • Gransil® VX-401 Gransil®
  • Oil component 10.0 to 80.0 20.0 to 70.0 30.0 to 70.0 40.0 to 60.0 preferably castor oil and / or
  • All of the styling agent compositions prepared had excellent hairability and dispersibility.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour la fixation de cheveux ou la déformation temporaire de fibres kératiniques, en particulier de cheveux humains, ladite composition présentant de meilleures propriétés en termes d'aptitude à l'application et d'aptitude à la répartition, ladite composition contenant outre un émulsifiant anionique, un diméthicone spécifique ou une combinaison de diméthicones.
PCT/EP2015/071716 2014-10-21 2015-09-22 Produit coiffant à aptitude à l'application améliorée Ceased WO2016062480A1 (fr)

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DE102014221367.3A DE102014221367A1 (de) 2014-10-21 2014-10-21 Stylingmittel mit verbesserter Applizierbarkeit

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002067872A1 (fr) * 2001-02-27 2002-09-06 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh & Co. Kg Bombe d'aerosol destinee au traitement de fibres keratiniques
EP1559402A1 (fr) * 2004-01-28 2005-08-03 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Cire pour les cheveux comprenant une cire de silicone, une cire exempte de silicone et des huiles.
WO2014060407A2 (fr) * 2012-10-15 2014-04-24 L'oreal Dispersions de cire aqueuses pour altérer la couleur de substrats kératiniques

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DE3723354A1 (de) 1987-07-15 1989-01-26 Henkel Kgaa Sulfatierte hydroxy-mischether, verfahren zu ihrer herstellung und ihre verwendung
DE3725030A1 (de) 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Henkel Kgaa Oberflaechenaktive hydroxysulfonate
DE3926344A1 (de) 1989-08-09 1991-02-28 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur herstellung von hellfarbigen oelsaeuresulfonaten
DE19736906A1 (de) 1997-08-25 1999-03-04 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung von sulfatierten Fettsäurealkylenglykolestern
US20110033512A1 (en) 2009-08-10 2011-02-10 Laurie Ellen Breyfogle Personal care composition with improved spreadability
US9364420B2 (en) 2010-08-18 2016-06-14 Kao Usa Inc. Hair conditioning compositions

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002067872A1 (fr) * 2001-02-27 2002-09-06 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh & Co. Kg Bombe d'aerosol destinee au traitement de fibres keratiniques
EP1559402A1 (fr) * 2004-01-28 2005-08-03 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Cire pour les cheveux comprenant une cire de silicone, une cire exempte de silicone et des huiles.
WO2014060407A2 (fr) * 2012-10-15 2014-04-24 L'oreal Dispersions de cire aqueuses pour altérer la couleur de substrats kératiniques

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